(navigation image)
Home American Libraries | Canadian Libraries | Universal Library | Community Texts | Project Gutenberg | Biodiversity Heritage Library | Children's Library | Additional Collections
Search: Advanced Search
Anonymous User (login or join us)
Upload
See other formats

Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

Il--^ 



,S"?)Oolo.\S.\ 




J 



c 



Far More Wholesome 

as well as more delicious and most delicate you'll 
find your Cakes, Cookies, Gems and Biscuits if 
they are raised with Rumford Baking Powder. 
More wholesome, because this powder is made of 
the most wholesome materials known. It is 

More Economical, also, 

because it is so much more effective in making- 
foods light, digestible — with never a chance of 
failure. 

Rumford "^S^Sin 



THE NEWESr IFORKS ON COOKERY 



THE BOOK OF ENTREES 

By JANET M. HILL, author of "Cooking for Two," etc. 

An entirely new book containing over 800 recipes, with chapters on casserole, planked dishes and with menus. 
Fully Illustrated from j>hotograJ>ks. Cloth, $1.50 net. 

DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

By IDA HOOD CLARK, Supervisor of Elementary Training in the Milwaukee 

Public Schools. 

A course in domestic science, suitable for public, private, and rural school, consisting of 36 lessons, as taught 
by the author. 

Illustrated from photographs. Cloth, $1.50 net. 

WITH A SAUCEPAN OVER THE SEA 

By ADELAIDE KEEN. 

Quaint and curious recipes from the kitchen of foreign countries, but suitable for America. ''Something new" 
for your bill of fare. 

Fully Illustrated from photographs. Cloth. $1 50 net. 



Send for our Complete Pamphlet, "Best Books on Cooking." 

Little, Brown k Co., Publishers. 34 Beacon St., Boston 



Cold Dishes for Weddings, College 
and School Spreads 



BUFFET SERVICE 

Jellied Chicken Broth in Cups 

Jellied Bouillon in Cups 

Jellied Consomme in Cups 

Slices of Pickled Tongue in Aspic Jelly 

Slices of Cold Boiled Ham in Aspic Jelly 

Boiled Salmon in Aspic Jelly 

Terrine of Chicken and Ham ; Garnish Mayonnaise of Tomatoes 

Cold Boiled Ham with Macedoine Salad 

Veal Loaf, with Macedoine Salad 

Lobster Salad 

Lettuce-and-Fresh Salmon Salad 

Fresh Salmon Salad, with Jellied Macedoine 

Small Baking Powder Biscuits 

Small Parker House Rolls 

Chopped Ham Sandwiches 

Chopped Ham-and-Egg Sandwiches 

Grated Cheese, Butter-and-Chopped Xut Sandwiches 

Sardine-and-Egg Sandwiches 

(Mayonnaise and Crisp Crackers) 

Strawberry Sherbet and Vanilla Ice Cream 

(In one cup) 

Vanilla Ice Cream (Junket), Strawberry Sauce 

Raspberry Bombe Glace 

Raspberry Parfait 

Grape Juice Lemonade 

Grape Juice Punch (half frozen) 

(In punch bowl) 

Wedding Cake 

Brides Cake 

Rolled Almond Wafers 

Vienna Macaroons 



The 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Volume XVII 



June-July, 1912— May, 1913 



Copyright, 1912, 1913, by The Boston Cooking-School Maga/ink Co 



Published Monthly bv 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMTANV 

372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 



^ 



/ii+ 






COMPLETE INDEX, VOL. XVII 
June-July, 1912 — May, 1913 



Page 

A Berlin Christmas 354 

A Branch O'Red 271 

A Cape Cod Clambake 116 

Advice 544 

A Family Where the Boys Are Proud to 

Help 222 

A Hobby for the Housewife 598 

American Commodities in Paris .... 280 

Aminta's Housekeeping 440 

A Model Kitchen 543 

A Plea for Better Hotels in Small Towns 276 

A Saint Valentine Luncheon 521 

At Henriette's 223 

A Unique Woman's Club 507 

Aunt Priscilla, N. D 784 

Changing from Winter to Summer Diet 50 

College Cooks 783 

Daffodil 701 

Demonstrations in Cooking . . . 459, 540, 620 

Dietetics in Hospitals 699 

Dishes for Hallowe'en Spreads .... 185 

Distributing Christmas Gifts, 111. . . . 347 

Editorials 30, 118, 206, 286, 366 

446, 526, 606, 686, 776 

Exterminating the Fly 763 

First Aid Outfit for the Summer Camp . 137 

Florida: Its Fruits and Future .... 383 

Four and a Fireless 752 

Fragrance a la Mode 518 

From the Ends of the Earth 54 

Gifts for the Fastidious Woman .... 380 

Handkerchief Cases for Christmas Gifts 382 

Happyville 203 

Her Change of Heart 272 

Her Christmas Gifts 364 

Her First Case 106 

Her Letters 20 

Her Scrap-book 19 

His Honors 363 

His Way with an Apple 112 

Home Ideas and Economies . . 57, 144, 225 

306, 385, 465, 550, 625, 707, 786 

Housekeeping in the Far East 114 

How Reduce Household Accounts . . . 437 
Ideas from Poland and Constantinople, 

France and New York 219 

If I Were Not I 677 

In Excelsis 760 

Lazy Living 284 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking . . .47, 135 

Making Olive Oil on Capri 103 

Mav 751 

Menus. 42-44, 131-134, 217-218, 298-300, 378-379. 
457-458. 538-539, 585, 618-619, 665, 697-698. 
745, 111^ 778 

Modern Hospitality 285 

Mother's Garden 16 

Mousing Around 781 

My Lassie's Skill 46 

My Sister 358 

Mv Spoon Box 350 

Nesting Time 575 

New Books 158 

Nightfall on the Meadows 143 

November 281 

One College Girl's Career 684 

On New Year's Dav 437 



Out of the Rut 

Piazza Possibilities . 

Pictures in the Home, ill. 

Points on Our Thanksgiving Dishes 

Praise Is Not Love 

Preservation of Fruit . . 
Promptness and Tendernes- 

Prosit Neu Yahr 

Reading: A Safety Valve 
Roses and Holly . . 
Seattle's Market' Place 

Seaweed as Food 

Serving Meals without a xMaid . . 
Some Convenient Built-in Features 
Something for the Mister 
Suggestions from Soyer . 

Sunflowers 

Teaching Children Housework 
The Apple and the Apple Tree 
The Art of Giving Gifts . . 
The Cookery of Vegetables . . . 

The Dasheen 

The Dining-room As It Should Be 

The Domestic Woman of Today . 

The French Suburban Villa . . . 

The Havelock Innovation ... 

The House of Never Again . . 

The House Not Made with Hands . . . 

The Inexpensive Meal 

The Isles of Bermuda . . 
The Joyous Way .... 
The Lexington Tea-room . . 

The Light of Life 

The Market of Oakland, Cal. . 

The Massolette 

The Merits of the Chafing Dish 

The Nervous Woman 

The New House 

The Old Turk at His Cafe 
The Origin of Chowder . 

The Return 

The Scavenging Diet 

The Steam Laundry 

TheWoman'sExchanee of Oakland, Cal., III. 
The Woman Who Had Nothing to Give 

The Worrying Habit 

Those Little Songs 

Tony's Museurn 

Treatment of Hard Wood Floor?, 111. 

Two and June 

Unrecorded Benefactors 

What Our Husbands Can Teach Us 

About Housekeeping 

What the Average Housekeeper Should 

Know About Balancing Meals .... 
What She Sent and What She Wanted 

to Send 

When Aunt Harriet Entertained .... 

When Dreams Came True 

Where the Earlv Wild Flowers Grow . 

Winter Nightfall 

Whv You Should Eat Fats and Sugars . 



604 
187 
3(J1 
445 
126 
224 
434 
204 
381 
46.3 
141 

45 
587 
5^ 
303 
105 

52 
678 
359 
201 
702 
267 
755- 
592 
192 
277 
362 
779 
427 
765 
667 
221 
197 

49 
602 
680 

56 
600 
282 
683 
199 
7(U 

11 
761 
361 
520 
109 

99 

16 
513 



523 



Se.vson'.vble Recipes: 
.Alaska. Baked, with Figs. 

Apple. Rose 

Artichokes. Boiled 



111. 



461 

7ai 

515 
674 
747 
522 
623 



377 
617 

?o 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Artichokes, Bottoms, with D'Uxelles . 39 

Artichokes, French, 111 39 

Asparagus Sprew, Buttered, 111. ... 38 

Bacon, with Fried Bananas, 111. . . . 370 

Bavariose, Maple-and- Walnut, 111. . . 295 

Beans, Dried Lima, Creole 614 

Beans, Pickled String 215 

Beefsteak, Broiled, with Bananas, 111. 210 

Biscuit, Almond 2>11 

Biscuit, Maple-and-Nut, 111 770 

Blitzen Kuchen 377 

Bread, Rye-Meal, 111 612 

Bread, Sweet Rye, with Raisins . . . 374 

Brook Trout au Bleu 33 

Bombe, Marie Louise 617 

Bombe, Jeanne D'Arc, 111 695 

Buns, German Almond •. . 454 

Buns, Philadelphia Butter, 111 213 

Cabbage, Stewed, Hollandaise .... 38 

Cake, Child's Birthday, 111 776 

Cake, Chocolate Fudge, 111 455 

Cake, German Apple, Revised .... 535 

Cake, German Peach 125 

Cake, Lady Finger, 111 535 

Cake, Maple Syrup, with Frosting, 111. 616 

Cake, Nut, with Caramel Frosting . . 536 

Cake, Saratoga Corn 770 

Cake, Tree, with Mocca Cream, 111. . 454 

Cakes, Chocolate Nougat, 111 375 

Cakes, Five O'clock Tea, 111 615 

Canapes a la Selon 209 

Canapes, Brownies, Sardine, 111. . . . 209 

Canapes, Creamed, Asparagus .... 369 

Canapes, Sardine 609 

Canapes, Shrimp 450 

Carrots, Lyonnaise 213 

Cauliflower a la Huntington 297 

Caviare, Mobile Style 609 

Caviare, with Tomato Jelly 609 

Charlotte Russe, Chocolate, 111. ... 775 

Charlotte Russe, with Jelly, Fig, 111. . 456 

Charlotte Russe, without Gelatine . . 776 

Cheese, Savory 612 

Chicken a la Maryland 370 

Chicken and Kornlet, Scalloped, 111. . 35 

Chicken, Creole 36 

Chicken, Paprika of 123 

Chicken, Souffle, 111 37 

Chilli Con Carne 453 

Chops, Lamb, Aida, 111 770 

Chops, Lamb a la Diable 371 

Chowder, Clam, Rhode Island .... 769 

Chowder, Kornlet 610 

Clams, Scalloped, Rockport Style . . 34 

Cocktail, Oyster, 111 529 

Cocktail, Watermelon, 111 121, 209 

Codfish, Fresh Fried, N. H. Style, 111. . 690 

Consomme, Imperatrice 369 

Consomme, Madrid 121 

Consomme, with Poached Eggs . . . 689 

Corn, Green, in Cream 124 

Coupe, Eugenie, 111 • . . 536 

Cream Cheese, with Bar-le-Duc, 111. . 694 

Cream, Chestnut Bavarian, 111 995 

Croquettes, Rabbit, with Sauce, 111. . . 532 

Croquettes, Rice-and-Lamb Chop . . 770 

Curry of Baked Beans 213 

Custard, Cheese 614 

Custard, Chocolate, with Fudge Sauce, 

111 454 

Cutlets, Lamb, Breaded, 111 769 

Dressing, Bread, for Boned Lamb . . 292 



Page 

Duckling, Planked, Albany Style, 111. . 370 

Duckling, Roast Domestic, 111 371 

fiClairs, Christmas, with Filling and 

Frosting, 111 376 

fiClairs, Palmerston 613 

Eggs a la Dauphine, 111 610 

Eggs a la Grant, 111 692 

Eggs a la King, 111 610 

Eggs, Opera, 111 610 

Eggs, Poached, "Times Square" . . . 693 

Eggs, Shirred 212 

Eggs, Shirred, with Tomatoes .... 292 

Eggs, with Spinach 693 

Filberts, Salted 297 

Fillets, Rolled Herring 121 

Filling, Almond Cream 294 

Filling, Cream Cake 296 

Finnan Haddie, Creamed, Mexican 

Style 531 

Fish, Rolled, Fillets of. 111 450 

Flounders, Fried, Cheese Sauce ... 451 

Food, Devil's, 111 676 

Fritters, Cauliflower, Villeroi .... 215 

Frosting, Confectioner's 297 

Fruit, Preservation of. 111 126 

Galantine of Chicken, Christmas Dec- 
oration, 111 372 

Goose, Roast, German Style 369 

Hash, Corned Beef, with Fried Onions 211 

Ice-Cream, Melba, Baked, Alaska . . 216 
Ice-Cream, Ring of, with Peaches, 

Melba Sauce, 111 695 

Ice, Raspberry 617 

Jelly, Apple and Elderberry 214 

Jelly, Aspic, for Chaudfroid 373 

Jelly, Claret, with Plums, 111 616 

Lamb, Boned Leg of, with Ham, 111. . 291 

Lamb, Breast of. Roasted, 111 124 

Lemon Crusts of Deviled Chicken . . 289 

Liver, Calf's, with Fine Herbs .... 124 

Lobster a la Parisienne 611, 691 

Lobster and Halibut en Casserole . . 33 

Lobster, Broiled Live, 111 34 

Macaroons, Almond, Chocolate, 111. . 216 

Macaroons, Vienna 41 

Mackerel, Baked 210 

Mackerel, Fresh, Baked, Creole Style 35 

Marguerites, 111 615 

Marguerites, Chestnut Mixture for . 617 

Marshmallows, Mary-Elizabeth, 111. . 616 

Meringues, Almond, 111 377 

Mousseline, Cold, Asparagus, 111. . . 694 

Mousseline, Cold Ham, 111 771 

Mousseline, String Bean, 111 694 

Napoleons, 111 296 

Noodles 530 

Omelet, Bar-le-duc 773 

Oysters, Baltimore Style 290 

Parfait, Angel 617, 695 

Parfait, Maple, with Egg-Whites . . 537 

Paste, Chou, for Tarts 774 

Pears, Cardinal 617 

Pears, Sweet Pickled, 111 214 

Peppers, Green, Stufifed 38 

Pickle, Cauliflower Mustard 297 

Pie, Beefsteak-and-Ham, 111 690 

Pie, Lemon Sponge, 111 215 

Pigeons a la Valenciennes, 111 531 

Pigeons, Stewed, on Toast, 111. ... 531 

Pop-overs, 111 40 

Potage a la Aurore 449 

Pottage, Metternich 121 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Potato Gaufrette 690 

Potatoes, French Fried 690 

Potatoes, Hongroise Style 537 

Potatoes, Puffed, Paprika, 111 533 

Prunes, Jellied, J 11 774 

Prunes, Stewed, with Nuts, 111. ... 536 

Pudding, English Plum, 111 375 

Puree, Chestnut, for Peppers .... 452 

Rice Cakes, 111 294 

Rice, How to Boil 41 

Rings, Bismarck, 111 294 

Roll, Chocolate Cream 455 

Rolls, Potato 375 

Roly-Poly, Peach 124 

Salad, Cabbage, 111 453 

Salad, Cabbage, French Fashion, 111. . 37 

Salad, Chicken, Spring Style .... 612 

Salad, Cranberry-and-Celery 374 

Salad, Cucumber-and-Pimento .... 537 

Salad, Date-and-Banana, 111 11^ 

Salad, Eggs Aurore, 111 373 

Salad, Fin de Siecle, 111 613 

Salad, Kohl Rabi, 111 212 

Salad, Mousse de Pullet, 111 293 

Salad, Potato, 111 771 

Salad, Salmon, with Vegetables, 111. . 122 

Salad, String Bean • 452 

Salad, Tomato-Jelly-and-Baked-Bean, 

Salad, Valentine, 111 534 

Salad, Yvette 38 

Sandwiches, Cream Cheese-and-Pimen- 

to. 111. 213 

Sardines, with Potato Salad, 111. ... 34 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 373 

Sauce, Cold, Ravigote 122 

Sauce, Cranberry 41, 297 

Sauce, Giblet for Roast Fowl .... 292 

Sauce, Half-Glaze 693 

Sauce, Mornay 693 

Sausage, American, 111 452 

Sausage, Baked, with Creamed Potatoes 537 

Sausage, Broiled, with Soubise Tomate 537 

Scallops a la Brestoise (Rauhofer) 450 

Scallops Baked in Shells 450 

Sea Bass, Fillets of, with Sauce Tar- 
tare, 111 122 

Souffle, Pineapple, 111 295 

Soup, Chicken, with Meringue .... 689 

Soup, Cream of Cauliflower 289 

Soup, Cream of Tomato 769 

Soup, Cream of Watercress, Oxtail . 449 

Soup, Giblet a la Anglaise 689 

Soup, Ham 210 

Soup, Mock Bisque, Chantilly .... 530 

Soup, Noodle 529 

Soup, Oyster, Tomato 289 

Soup, Tomato and Fish 210 

Squares, Chocolate-Marshmallow, 111. . 775 

Steak, Planked, Parker House, 111. . . 452 

Steak, Round en Casserole, 111. ... 291 

Strawberry Sponge Tart 40 

Sweetbreads, Mock, with Chestnut 

Puree, 111 611 

Sweetbreads, Supreme of. 111 211 

Tart, Marlboro, 111 296 

Tarts, Strawberry, 111 774 

Timbales, Tomato 215 

Tomatoes, Canned, with Stuffing . . . 533 

Tomatoes, Scalloped 771 

Trout, Brook, Biarritz 122 

Veal, Fricassee of. 111 36 

Veal, Loin of, Poeled. Ill 691 



Wafers, Rolled Almond . 

Queries and Answers: 

Articles in Cover, Place of . 
Asparagus, Recipe for Canned . 

Bananas, Baked 

Banana Whip 

Batter for Swedish Timbales . . 
Beans and Pork, New York Style 
Beans, Baked, Spanish Style . . 

Beans, Boston Baked 

Beans, Red Kidney, Mexican Style 
Beans, Moulded with Sausage . . 
Beef and Macaroni . 
Beef, Curry of . . 
Beef en Casserole . 
Biscuit, Maryland . . 
Bombe, Marie Louise 
Books on Dietetics . . 
Bouillon, Iced Orange 

Bouillon, Receptacles for 

Bouillon, Serving of 

Bran for Bread 

Bread and Muffins, Bran 

Bread, One Loaf of Date 

Bread, Recipe for Gluten 

Bread, "Sticky" at Center of Loaf . 

Butter for Suet 

Buttermilk for Sour Milk . 

Butter, Scotch 

Cabbage, Cooking of 

Cake, Apple 

Cake, Chocolate Fudge 

Cake, Chocolate Spice 

Cake, Christmas Fruit, Imperial . 

Cake, Citron, Raisins, Etc 

Cake, How Add Flour to 

Cake, Imperial 

Cake, Lady Baltimore 

Cake, Maple Sugar 

Cake, Newport 

Cake, Orange 

Cake, Plain and Rich 

Cake, Rich, Fine-grained 

Cake, Rich Layer 

Cake, Sponge, Cream, etc 

Cake, Sponge 

Cake, To Cut in Squares 

Cake, Trouble with Angel 

Cake, Trouble with Sponge 

Cake, Unbuttered Pan for 

Cake, Wedding 

Cake with Three Whites of Egg . 
Cakes, Griddle, with Sour Milk . . 
Canapes, Anchovy. Pimento, Etc. 

Canapes, Eating of 

Care of Bean-water 

Carrots, Canned 

Celeriac and Celeri-Rave . 

Celery, Braised 

Changing Cake Recipes 

Charlotte Russe, with Jelly Roll . 

Charts of Cuts of Meat 

Chestnuts, Stewed, Creamed, Etc. 

Chicken a la King 551, 

Chicken a la Terrapin 

Chicken, Frying of . 

Chicken, Planked 

Chiffonade, French Dressing . 

Chocolate. "Dot" 

Chocolate, Hot, for Two 



Page 
40 



630 
150 
316 
316 
791 
312 
312 
312 
312 
314 
r)38 
636 
636 
791 
^34 
791 
229 
554 
469 
711 
552 
634 
66 
311 
711 
712 
394 
631 
150 
629 
230 
476 
554 
392 
552 
231- 
230 
556 
472 
234 
632 
791 
712 
229 
791 
794 
231 
792 
474 
234 
711 
556 
472 
471 
152 
471 
790 
234 
390 
(j29 
391 
794 
151 
631 
66 
62f 
230 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Page 

Chop Suev, with Sweetbreads .... 478 

Coffee Taffy 394 

Cookies, Chocolate, Nut 311 

Cookies, Drop Molasses 554 

Crab, Mock 474 

Crab, Ravigote 66 

Cream, Ice, Chocolate 470 

Crullers, French 229 

Cutlets, Tenderloin 638 

Dishes, Hot Supper 154 

Dishes, Luncheon without Meat . . . 154 

Dressing, Mayonnaise 396 

Dressing, Salad, for Fruit 711 

Dressing. Salad, without Oil 64 

Dressing, Seasoned, Pink Salad . . . 394 

Doughnuts, Making of 631 

Duck, Bombay 791 

Dumpling, Baked Apple 316 

Eggs a la Aurore 156 

Eggs, Scotch 790 

Faggot or Kitchen Bouquet 471 

Fat, Vegetable-Flavored 712 

Figs, Candied 790 

Fish, Tunny 152 

Flour, Cornstarch for 394 

Flour, Pastry 394 

Forks, Deposition of, at Table .... 711 

Fritters, Corn 68 

Frosting, Regarding Boiled 632 

Ginger, Preserved 66 

Goose, Baking of 151 

Goose, Stuffing for. Etc 558 

Gooseberries, Recipe for 150 

Goulash, Hungarian 636 

Grease, Removal of, from Floor . . . 632 

Ham, Baked, with Cloves 151 

Hams, Virginia Style 394 

Hash, Pepper 474 

Herbs, Savory 471 

Hermits • • • • 230 

Horseradish, Keeping of 792 

Ice Cream, Pineapple Juice 792 

Ice Cream, with Condensed Milk . . . 796 

Icing, Fluffy Caramel or Chocolate . 554 

Icing, Lemon 229 

Icing, Soft, for Cream Pie 554 

Jam, Storing of 151 

Jelly, Apple Mint 232, 472 

Jelly, Barley 712 

Jelly, Dewberry 152 

Jellv, Mint, with Gelatine 474 

Kohl-Rabi, Recipes for 471 

Lady Fingers 231 

Limes, Pickled 236 

Liquids, Why Eggs Thicken 792 

Loaf, Chicken 476 

Lobster, Coral and Liver of 792 

Lobster, Filling for Shell 792 

Main Dish at Church Suppers .... 629 

Marguerites 231 

Marmalade, Rhubarb 64 

Marrons Glace 392 

Mayonnaise. White 472 

Meat, Weight of, per Capita - 152 

Muffins, Rice 630 

Mushrooms, Canning, and Catsup . . 712 

Mustard, English 472 

Noodles, Recipe for 63 

Nuts, Dishes for 470 

Omelet au Beurre Noir 154 

Omelet, Spanish 229, 630 

Outfit of a Tea-Room ........ 632 



Page 

Pancakes, French 154 

Parties, Regarding Card 551 

Paste, Almond 230 

Paste, Orange, Turkish 469 

Pastry, Flaky, for Two Pies 310 

Peanut Brittle 391 

Peas, Canned 66 

Peel, Candied Grapefruit 551 

Pickles, Dill 232 

Pickles, End of Season 310 

Pie, Boston Cream 712 

Pie, Filling and Frosting for Cream . 552 

Pie, Lemon 234 

Pie, Mince or Apple, v^'ith Meringue.. 552 

Pie, Pumpkin 310 

Pies, Mixture for Mince 474 

Pie, Vinegar 152 

Pimentos, Uses for 631 

Potage, Mongole 550 

Potatoes, Puffed 230 

Preserves, Rhubarb and Fig 64 

Pudding, Cornstarch 390 

Pudding, Delmonico, with Peaches . . 316 

Pudding, Frozen, with Sauce .... 470 

Pudding, Noodle Custard 63 

Pudding, Steamed Chocolate .... 390 

Pudding, Steamed Prune 390 

Puree, Dried Pea or Bean 311 

Rabbit, Mexican 551 

Recipe or Receipt 630 

Relish, Corn 234 

Rhubarb, Scalloped, with Meringue 64 

Rhubarb, with Sultana Raisins .... 64 

Rice, Swiss 316 

Rice, Turin 316 

Rolls, Napkin for 470 

Salad, Dressing for "1912" 710 

Salad, Lima Bean 314 

Salad, When Eaten 470 

Sally Lunn 232 

Sandwiches, Chocolate 396 

Sandwich, Club-house 630 

Sauce for French Pancakes 310 

Sauce, Melba 152 

Sauce Tartare 396, 552 

School Luncheons 396 

Souffle, Cheese 150 

Souffle, Spinach SSS' 

Soup, Black Bean 311 

Soup, Mock Turtle 478 

Soup, Plain Tomato 231 

Soup, Puree of Split-Pea 311 

Soup, Red Cream of Tomato .... 550 

Spice Bag 470 

Spots, Removal of, from Painted Walls 392 

"Spring Form" for Baking Cake . . . 234 

Steak, Flank 70, 634 

Steak, Planked 232 

Steak, Swiss 154 

Stew, Beef 710 

Tea and Coffee. Making of 469 

Thermometer, Jelly-and-Sugar .... 472 

Timbales, Crabflake 794 

Timbales, Egg 150 

Tomatoes, Stuffed 68 

Tomatoes, with Tunny 558 

Tongue, Jellied. Pressed 476 

Tutti Frutti, Ways of Using .... 151 

Veal Loaf 66 

Vegetables, Canning of ...... 63. 794 

Viscogen to Thicken Cream 314 

Yeast for One Loaf 394 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol XVII 



JUNE-JULY, 1912 



No 



The Woman's Exchange of Oakland, California 



THE Woman's Exchange of 
Oakland, expresses in a sec- 
tion of its by-laws : "That the 
object and purpose of the organization 
shall be to promote mutual co-opera- 
tion among women, and in further- 
ance thereof to maintain a depot for 
the reception and sale of the work of 
needy women and, generally, to admin- 
ister non-sectarian benevolence in 
such manner as the Board of Directors 
may determine." This tells a little of 
the object of the work, but does not 
give any idea of its scope. To tell 
how far reaching the work is would 
be almost impossible, for having about 
three hundred consignors, each of 
these individuals having at least one per- 
son dependent upon her, and many 
times a whole family, it is very much 
like an endless chain. Many of the 
consignors are widows, some are in a 
sadder position even than a widow, 
having been deserted by their hus- 
bands and left with little ones to sup- 
port. Some have husbands who have 
become invalids and the burden of 
support has fallen on the wife. One 
little woman was on the verge of los- 
ing her home by not being able to pay 
the mortgage interest. An opening 



was made for her at the Exchange. 
her goods became popular, sold well. 
and from her sales she has not only 
paid off the interest but the mortgage 
also, and her home is now her own. 
There are many deserving women 
who must earn their living wholly or 
partially, who are not fitted to take 
clerical positions nor enter into the 
competition of the business world, and 
yet who have talents in either the art 
of cooking or making dainty fancy 
articles. It is to help these women to 




BAGS AND WORK- BASK FT; 



12 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



help themselves, that the Exchange is 
working; to give them a place where 
their goods may be disposed of with- 
out their names coming before the 
public, and so they can maintain their 
lives in as retired and private a man- 
ner as they wish. To guard against 
anyone entering goods who only cares 
to earn pin-money, each person, to be- 
come a consignor, must sign a card, 
saying she is obliged to, wholly or par- 
tially, support herself. Each consignor 
is known by number, and the fee to 
the Exchange is $1.00 a year for those 
living in this county, $1.50 for all 
others, and 10% is the commission to 
the Exchange on all sales. Last year 
the Woman's Exchange paid to its 
consignors $24,615.95. Besides this 
from twenty to twenty-five women are 
regularly employed at the Exchange. 

Seventeen years ago, the Woman's 
Exchange of Oakland was born and 
cast its first rays of sunshine and com- 
fort in the hearts and lives of women 
who suddenly were called upon to put 
their shoulders to the wheel, w^hen 
serious financial reverses came, in time 



of widespread strikes in the business 
world, and suffering and privation 
visited many households. Then a 
small store was taken where these 
brave women could place their wares 
for sale, and the financial returns 
meant much to the distressed fami- 
lies. From that modest beginning 
the Exchange grew, step by step, add- 
ing a small lunch room, and then, 
as its popularity grew, a larger one. 
Two years and a half ago the oppor- 
tunity came to secure two of the 
stores in the new Thayer Building, 
then being erected in what promised 
to be the future retail business dis- 
trict. The opportunity was grasped, 
and with care and serious thought, the 
two stores, were arranged and fitted 
up to suit the needs of Exchange 
work. It cost a large sum to have 
the kitchen and pantries furnished 
with everything new from a small 
sauce-pan to three large gas ranges, 
steam table, shelving, and large ice 
chests, etc.. to say nothing of the 
dining room fittings. new show- 
cases and basement storerooms, etc. 




A PART OF THE STORE, AND LUXCHEON-ROOM 



THE WOMAXS EXCHAXGE OF DAK L. WD 



i;> 




ONE VIEW OF THE LUNCHEON-ROOM 



All this took a large slice of the 
hard-worked-for bank deposit that we 
once thought might mean a home of 
our own, but the results were so satis- 
factory that not one cent was spent 
with regret. The new show-cases, 
larger windows and more spacious 
quarters meant better facilities for 
displaying the goods, both fancy work 
and food, and that meant better sales 
and more income for the consignors, 
the great point always before the 
board of directors and managers. 

The Exchange opened its new home 
with a Housewarming Reception, 
when nothing was sold, but every inch 
of space from basement to front door 
was open for inspection. Tea and 
cakes were served in the Private Tea 
Room. The color scheme of the Ex- 
change is golden brown and yellow, 
which is carried out in woodwork, tint- 
ing, carpeting and curtains. Each lunch 
table is always made attractive by a 
vase of fresh flowers, varying as to 
season, but the aim is always to carry 



out the color scheme of yellow, having 
daffodils, chrysanthemums, coreopsis, 
or California poppies, and only vary- 
ing when the Holidays call for Cali- 
fornia Christmas Berries — then tlie 
rooms are also garlanded with ever- 
greens and wreaths, and the Christ- 
mas spirit pervades the air. In our 
new home we have besides our regular 
luncheon room, another which we call 
the ''Private Tea Room." This also 
is furnished and decorated in golden 
brown and yellow. This room is used 
by parties wishing to give private 
luncheons, card parties or afternoon 
teas, and judging by its popularity, it 
has met the public need. In this era 
of apartment houses and hotels many 
ladies are not situated so they can 
conveniently entertain at their rooms 
or homes, or do not care to have the 
trouble, so they find it a great con- 
venience to entertain their friends at 
the ''Private Tea Room" of the Wom- 
an's Exchange. After expressing tlieir 
wishes to the Housekeeper as to the 



14 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



menu and color of flowers desired, 
they are free of all care and responsi- 
bility, for the Exchange is prepared to 
furnish the daintiest and most delic- 
ious refreshments, from the simplest to 
the most elaborate, and everything 
cooked and served perfectly. Each 
entertainment brings forth many com- 
pliments for the delicious home cook- 
ing, ''nothing restauranty, not even the 
service," as hostesses often say. The 
Private Tea Room has its own special 
gold and w^hite china, fine glassware 
and table appointments. The maids 
for these occasions wear white uni- 
forms. During the last year another 
improvement has been added to the 
service. In November we gave to the 
public what we called our Thanksgiv- 
ing offering: it was a beautiful after- 
noon tea service of finest Haviland in 
gold and white, with brass trays to 
hold each service and brass hot water 
kettles to be placed on each table, so 
that each hostess could serve her 
guests just as if she were at home. 
This is for the regular afternoon trade. 



not the Private Room. There are 
many who prefer the famous Ex- 
change hot waffles and coiTee of an 
afternoon, and for them fascinating 
cofTee pots with gilt handles are the 
feature. To go to the Woman's Ex- 
feature for "afternoon teas" is the cor- 
rect thing, and each day adds to its 
popularity, especially after the theatre 
matinees. 

It is not alone to the ladies that the 
Exchange caters, but to the gentlemen 
also, for whom tables are reserved at 
lunch time and a comfortable dressing 
room is provided. The gentlemen 
seem thoroughly to enjoy the restful 
atmosphere and refinement of the Ex- 
change, as well as the home cooking. 
Many a jolly party of gentlemen 
friends gathers about the tables, while, 
at other tables serious, quiet business 
talks are going on. Many Lodges 
order their sandwiches and salad from 
the Exchange, saying they are better 
than anyone else can furnish. 

It is the aim of the Woman's Ex- 
change of Oakland to step ever on- 




A FOUR O'CLOCK TEA-SERVICE E\ PRIVATE TEA-ROOM 



THE WO.MAXS EXCHAXGE OF OAKI.AXU 



15 




WINDOW DISPLAY OF HANDMADE LACES, LINENS, ETC. 



ward and upward. To cater to the 
tastes of those who appreciate refine- 
ment and daintiness in service and ex- 
cellency in home cooking. To have an 
atmosphere of harmony and love so 
prevailing among employees, con- 
signors and the board that nothing 
but success can come, and the cus- 
tomers will recognize it. 

It is the desire of the Art Committee 
to have constantly more new designs 
in fancy work. There is always a 
ready sale for well-made, dainty fancy 
work in crochet, embroidery, painting, 
lace work, place cards, china painting, 
dressed dolls, sachets and needlework 
of all kinds. X^ovelties are greatly 
sought after, and the latest at the time 
of writing are paper flowers. Some 
will gasp in horror at the thought of 
paper flowers, but these are such 
works of art, that even Californians, in 
the land of flowers, are enthusiastic 
over them because of their w^onder- 
fully natural appearance, especially 
the roses. 

The Food Committee is constantly on 
the lookout for new ideas in cakes, 



breads, preserves, pastries and candies. 
Every month the sales increase in this 
department and the fame of the delicious 
cakes, Parker House rolls, mince pies, 
plum puddings, etc.. spreads farther and 
farther. 

The clerks in both Art and Food De- 
partments have great pride and taste in 
displaying the goods, thereby helping the 
sales. Quite a number of customers 
living out of town, have standing orders 
for Saturdays and large boxes of goodies 
are carefully packed and shipped. A 
Specialty is also made of packing lunches 
for picnics and tourists. 

Every monday consignors arc paui kt 
all sales made the previous week. 
Whether it has been a cash or charge 
sale, matters not. the consignor never has 
to wait for her money. The Woman's 
Exchange of Oakland is run entirely for 
the benefit of consignors, the profit from 
the lunch room helping to pay the ex- 
penses of the salesroom, for. of course, it 
is easy to understand that a commission 
of 10% on sales could not begin to pay 
the expense of clerks, rent, bookkeeper, 
superintendent, etc. The Board of Direc- 



16 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



tors and Managers give gladly and freely in the gratitude so often expressed by 

of their time, asking and receiving noth- employees and consignors in words and 

ing in return for their hours of care and happy faces. Service, well done, brings 

thought, but feeling amply repaid for all, its own reward. 



Mother's Garden 



A languorous haze has softened the poppy's 
crimson glare ; 

The breath of fresh-cut clover lies sweet in 
the placid air, 

A dreamy spirit hovers o'er the silent after- 
noon, 

That tangles olden fancies through the golden 
web of June. 

And in the fine brocading of the interwoven 

threads, 
Grows slowly forth a vision of my mother's 

garden beds, 
Set out with Johnny-jump-ups and pinks and 

mignonette. 
And honesty and anise and rosy bouncing-Bet. 



A regiment in gold and blue, the iris-flags 

uprise; 
The pansies tremble, all a-wing, like velvet 

butterflies ; 
The bridal-wreath flings o'er the fence its 

sprays of milky-white, 
And, scarlet-cupped, the hollyhocks set somber 

nooks alight. 

They thrill me with the wistful grace of faded 

yesterdays, — 
Those dear old dainty blossoms that my 

mother loved to raise ; 
And, as to cherished fabrics clings the breath 

of summer bloom, 
So clings about her memory their subtle 

dream-perfume. 

Harriet Whitney Durbin. 



Two and June 

Bv Alix Thorn 



AND you never told me," said 
Amelia turning reproachful, 
gray eyes on her hostess,, "you 
never told me, Dorothy, that you had 
other guests." 

''Why, no more have I," and Mrs. 
Comstock loosened her veil as the car 
turned into the stone gateway; ''that's 
only my cousin, Dr. Danforth, by the 
summer house. He don't count, he's 
often with us. Did you happen to ob- 
serve his scholarly stoop and the ponder- 
ous tome under his arm? He's a Pro- 
fessor, Amelia, filled with learning, a 
recluse bent on finishing his latest scien- 
tific work." The car slowed up by the 
Porte-cochere. "He'll not notice you 
fair maid; I doubt if he'll discover you 
are in the house. He even has his meals 
served in his den." 

"Hm-m" was Amelia's sole response, 
as the young women went slowly up the 
broad stairs to the charming guest room. 



"Forgive me, my dear," she continued, 
"for taking you to task as if I were en- 
gaging this house for the season instead 
of visiting you for a month," dropping a 
light kiss upon Dorothy's smooth cheek, 
"but you know, dear, how worn out I 
am with good times, and others, yes, and 
with men, too, and my one idea was to 
escape from everything, find you and 
June and the country, and just luxuriate 
in outdoors. Naturally, I was surprised 
to find a man here." 

"Forgive you, there's nothing to for- 
give !" glowed her hostess understand- 
ingly, "back to Nature may be your slo- 
gan ; I will confess that opening up a 
country house before the first of May, 
when winds are unexpectedly chill and 
drear, and undesired rainy days happen 
along, has its drawbacks. It is wonder- 
ful to see the spring coming on, (oh, I 
know, who better,) and, incidentally, it's 
proper, too, — but, Amelia, oh, Amelia, 



TWO AND JUNE 



17 



tell me how was town looking today, and 
yesterday, and the day before; I cannot 
get in often — and now, now unpack those 
trunks of yours — here's Jane to help you, 
and let me feast my eyes on new gowns, 
and gowns, and more new gowns." 

It was beautiful, next morning, to 
stand at an opened window and watch the 
panorama of early summer as seen from 
her bedroom, and Amelia, musing eyes 
fixed upon green meadows where daisies 
and buttercups were growing, upon blue 
hills that met the bluer sky, and myste- 
rious forests with their wealth of foliage, 
could only sigh her content. What were 
gaily decked shop windows, and all the 
hollow passing show, compared to this ! 
She recalled a fragment of a half- 
forgotten verse — "I was born for re- 
joicing, a summer child truly," and 
breathing deep of the sweetly fresh air, 
she turned reluctantly away as the break- 
fast gong sounded. 

Joyfully she wandered in the box en- 
closed garden, visiting each well-ordered 
bed as if the sturdy budding stalks were 
little country folk awaiting callers, she, 
herself, dainty as a flower, in her pink 
frock, seemed to melt harmoniously into 
the summer picture. 

Resting both dimpled arms upon the 
sundial, she laboriously deciphered its 
blurred message: 

'Tight and Shadow by turns, but al- 
ways Love," and smiling, looked up in 
time to see a tall dark figure disappear- 
ing around a rhododendron thicket; 
doubtless the Doctor, on serious work in- 
tent and suddenly a tiny frown appeared 
between Amelia's level brows. 

"Light and shadow by turns," she re- 
peated, "but always love" — after all what 
was a garden but an empty space ; a little 
laugh broke the stillness, where was 
Dorothy ? 

"Its glorious to have you here," ex- 
claimed impulsive Dorothy, that after- 
noon, squeezing Amelia's hand, as they 
sat together in the car, rushing along to- 
ward the station. The master of the 
house, who had been away on a two 



day's business trip, was due in half an 
hour, and Mrs. Dorothy had some 
errands to do at the village store, before 
the train should arrive. 

"I'm rather keen about country," con- 
tinued her young hostess, "every well- 
regulated person should be, but it's con- 
genial spirits zuith country, that one 
needs. Directly you arrived. Amelia, I 
saw my chalet with new eyes, and real- 
ized how delicious the drives were, how 
fortunate I was to have all this," with a 
vague waving of her ringed hands. 

"I feel as if I could never tire of it," 
was her guest's satisfying rejoinder, 
watching flowery hedges, full-leaved 
trees, and country fields, fly past, while 
the odorous wind fanned her face, flut- 
tered the lacy ruffles of her hat, and 
played with the shining tendrils of her 
hair. She felt like some free, detached 
thing, a part of all the new life and glad- 
ness, about her. 

Amelia understandingly took the va- 
cant place by Hartley, the chauffeur, and 
left the reunited pair to the seclusion of 
the back seat, to visit undisturbed. Dor- 
othy's voice was high with happiness, as 
she detailed every separate happening 
during her lord's absence, and the con- 
tented rumble of her Jimmie's deeper 
tones rose above the steady hum of the 
machine. Amelia, "masterless maid." 
told herself that she refused to feel the 
undesired third, that this was what she 
needed, required, but suddenly sat 
straighter, for a tall man in knicker- 
bockers stood uncovered by the roadside, 
as the car passed, his irreproachable cap 
in his hand. 

"Why if that isn't cousin John," cried 
Dorothy, waving wildly from the bark nf 
the car, "what walks the man takes 

"He's getting a fine coat of tan. 1 ;. 
say that much for him," responded Mr. 
Comstock, "good fellow, John." 

That evening ks she sang her tender 
songs in the half-lit drawing room, her 
full tones flooding the summer dusk with 
melody, Amelia was conscious of a long- 
ing for something she would not define 



18 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



if she could. She had her desire, the 
quiet hours she craved, — but, rising, she 
stepped out on the balcony — was that a 
huge firefly that glowed in the shadowy 
garden? No, for it was stationary. 
Doubtless the doctor's cigar, for Billy 
was in the billiard room. Amelia's finely 
cut lips parted in a smile that might have 
been described as scornful, and went 
back to the piano, where she performed 
surprising feats with one hand, all the 
airs in the medley being markedly cheer- 
ful ones, and then Dorothy's voice sum- 
moned her to the library. 

*T wish I were a widow, a sprightly 
widow," said a gay voice on the terrace 
below his window, "oh, yes I do, Dor- 
othy, dear, and then I could indulge in 
the distracting costume the French have 
designed for one thus bereaved. I've 
seen it, drapery somber, yet airy, white 
ruffles inside a demurely coquettish cap, 
floating veil not too long, adorable bow 
of some size, under the chin, and 
the—" 

Slowly rising from his chair. Doctor 
Danforth peeped decorously out, keeping 
well within the shadow of the curtains, 
and saw a slim young person standing 
by his cousin Dorothy. Her charming 
face was raised to the cloudless sky, her 
slim hands clasped appealingly, and the 
low dropping sun seemed to crown her 
bright hair with a nimbus, in place of the 
somber decoration she sighed for. 

"What a surprising young woman that 
must be," remarked the Doctor, address- 
ing a case of petrified shells, "evidently 
the guest of whom Dorothy spoke. 
Think she came a week ago. The cos- 
tume of a French widow! Now why 
should that attract her?" and he found 
it somewhat difficult to settle down to 
his notes. "Perhaps I am tired," he ex- 
plained to himself, ruffling up his dark 
hair, "it's not advisat^le to put oneself 
through too strenuously. The costume 
of a French widow, did she say?" 

The voices on the terrace had died 
away; he took off his glasses, abstract- 
edly turned the leaves of the book before 



him, and finally closed the bulky volume. 
Two days after this Dr. Danforth, 
coming into his den after an exhaustive 
search in the library for a reference 
book, stopped spellbound by the desk. 
Across his opened book lay a long spray 
of sweet briar roses, blushing pinkly, as 
if at their own temerity. The room was 
filled with their elusive fragrance, and, 
lo a miracle! Maiden June, herself, 
seemed to have blithely stepped across 
the threshold of his book-haunted den. 

That same afternoon Dorothy and her 
guest, at their tea drinking on the vine- 
covered piazza, stared, wide-eyed and 
astonished, with uplifted cups, to see a 
tall figure in white flannels come up the 
steps in leisurely fashion. 

"And am I to have a cup, too?" in- 
quired Dr. Danforth ceremoniously, "or 
is it intrusion for a mere man to join 
this feminine function?" Mrs. Dorothy 
speedily recovered herself. 

"My dear John !" she exclaimed gra- 
ciously, "how delightful! No Cranford 
this; you are entirely welcome, and tell 
me, how many lumps and how much 
cream, and — why, see here; you two 
haven't met! Amelia, this is my cousin, 
Dr. Danforth — John, this is my guest. 
Miss Anderson. Now you both know 
each other — " and the young matron 
busied herself with the cup of tea for 
the newcomer. 

It was Amelia who offered him the 
dainty sandwiches and the little cakes, 
and who smiled in the doing, her cheeks 
a trifle flushed. In the right lapel of that 
learned gentleman's coat was fastened a 
single frail blossom — what but a pink 
briar rose! 

"You are making a study of botany, 
perhaps. Dr. Danforth," innocently in- 
quired Amelia, her grey eyes fixed upon 
the rosy flower. 

"I regret to say that I have not spe- 
cialized in that line, but plan to do so in 
the future," was the Doctor's reply. 
"Have you, yourself, given much thought 
to the subject. Miss Anderson?" with 
a steady glance at the young woman near 



HER SCRAP BOOK 



19 



him. 

When Greek meets Greek decided 
Dorothy's friend, but aloud — "Flowers 
are chiefly interesting to me for the good 
I can do with them, sending them to hos- 
pitals, or," the corners of her mouth lift- 
ing in spite of herself, "to — well, to 
shut-ins, and, — and the like." 

"Oh, to shut-ins !" repeated the Doctor, 
caressing the little rose in his lapel, 
"truly, a beautiful thought." 

"Have another sandwich, do," said 
Amelia; her color had deepened. "I 
think, Dorothy, that your cousin is long- 
ing to have his cup refilled." 

"Do you think it is my fault, Billy?" 
said Dorothy pitifully as they stood on 
the piazza a full week later watching two 
figures who. were crossing the level 
stretch of lawn, evidently making for 
the garden — the Doctor and Amelia, 
side by side — "don't tell me it's my fault ! 
How could / guess that such a — well, 
such a bookworm, a hermit as John, 
should suddenly turn into a Squire of 
Dames ! Why, poor, dear Amelia came 
down here to escape from men, she told 
me so, and now look, look, Billy !" 

Dorothy's Billy laughed silently, 



watched with evident enjoyment the a 
sorbed pair until the garden's greenness 
gathered them in. "Your fault, non- 
sense !" he cried, "it's a man and a maid 
and June madness, just that combination 
John forgets his books; Amelia h 
ennui — let them alone, and don't, f 
heaven's sake, blame yourself." 

By the sundial the Doctor paused, and. 
for the first time read the motto, ad- 
justing his glasses to decipher it. "Light 
and Shadow by turns, but always Love." 
Read it to himself, and then read it aloud 
to Amelia, while a restless yellow butti 
fly poising on the dial's gray edge lin- 
gered as if listening. 

"But I beg of you," cried the Doct- 
as they were reluctantly leaving the gai- 
den, it being prosaic lunch time. "I beg 
of you to give up your cherished idea of 
wearing a French widow's costume. To 
make it appropriate, nay more, possibl 
r should have to leave this earthly s])here, 
and, — and I don't want to go, especially 
now, Amelia." 

"Pouf!" was Amelia's rejoinder, ' i 
confess I have lost all desire to wear it — 
I don't want to," raising eloquent eyes to 
his, "especially iW7i.\ John." 



Her Scrap Book 



Between these worn covers of faded green, 
I find the treasures which her fair hands, 
clipped, 

With gentle comments written in between, — 
Mute evidence of the rare sweets she sipped. 

Through all the dull monotony of her days. 
There ran, like lilting treble of a brook, 

The singing heart, that showed in sunny ways, 
So subtly, yet, it seals this little book. 



Here she found solace from the fretting car 
Some inspiration for the heavy task, 

A comfort for the moments of despair, 
Mavhap the soul-shine, where I loved 
" bask. 

The little Ivrics which she found rang true. 

The haunting melody, the sweet refram : 
And here, some golden hair with knot of blm-. 

I find 'twixt leaves, much blurred, as if by 

rain. 



This keep-sake, now that she has gone away. 

Is mine to guard full long with jealous art. 
To share the sweetness of her well-spent day, 

And all the matchless music of her heart. 



Eleanor Robbins Wilson. 



Her Letters 

By Myra Williams Jarrell 



On Board S. S. Colonna, 
Bound for The Port of Unattainable 
Desire. 

June 20. 

CAN there ever be perfect frank- 
ness between a man and a 
woman? Sometimes I wonder. 
You have asked me to be perfectly frank 
with you during the interim between the 
parting which has just taken place, and 
my return from this runaway trip. You 
see, I have read your steamer letter, — 
read it while all the others lie as yet un- 
opened. Yes, I will be frank, — as frank 
as what you are pleased to call my elu- 
sive nature will permit. I have read 
your letter three times, — and as I write 
it is open before me. But then your let- 
ters, like your conversation, are brief 
and to the point. 

I called this a runaway trip, advisedly, 
for though I wear your ring. upon my 
finger, I am literally running away from 
you, and trying to run away from, not 
with, myself. 

Now that I can think it over calmly, 
without your compelling presence, I do 
not know why I yielded to your entrea- 
ties, last night, before sailing, when I 
had successfully withstood them since 
my pinafore days. Perhaps it was a wee 
bit of terror at the thought of the illim- 
itable waste of water which would sep- 
arate us, after having had you tagging 
at my heels every minute since your col- 
lege days, and before. 

And the calm assurance with which 
you pulled this ring from your pocket, 
Royal, — it is a beauty, and I am as vain 
as a peacock over this, my first diamond, 
— was almost disconcerting. 

Yet here am I, scarcely out of sight of 
the dock where you stood so short a 
time ago, never removing your eyes from 
me as we sailed away, and away, and 
away, — and I am writing to you. And 



I am writing to you to say that even 
though I have read your letter three 
times, and am replying to it before open- 
ing any of the others, I do not think that 
I love you. 

If you were other than you, I might 
be indifferent, and indifference is fatal, 
in matters of this sort. You never bore 
me, — I am not indifferent to you, — there 
are times when I think I hate you, and 
in the latter clause lies your best hope. 
When a woman is indifferent to a man, 
he might as well cast his net into another 
stream. But a little hate does not matter. 

You see, with my usuaj contradictori- 
ness, I am bidding you hope, in the same 
sentence in which I tell you that I do 
not love you. Hester. 

On Board, Three Days Out, 
June 23. 

Sea travel is glorious to one who 
knows no fear, either of the water or of 
sea-sickness. I regard my poor, crumpled 
aunt with pity, as she regards me, when 
she is not too ill to regard anything, — 
with astonishment. For this is my first 
real whiff of salt air, my first experience 
in ocean motion, yet I take it like an old 
tar. You have told me that you are a 
good sailor. Perhaps, — no, I will not 
say it. There is too much evidence now 
on the side of the question that your 
wealth has influenced my decision. 
Frankly, it has not. But, frankly, why 
should it not? 

You, who never wanted anything in 
your life, — can you guess what it means 
to want, and want, and want, the seem- 
ingly unattainable, — all your life? Frank- 
ly again, — I have never had a dollar in 
my whole life with which I could be ac- 
tually reckless. 

If the family blood had been less blue, 
I could have gone to work. But some- 
how, work and a Makepeace are sworn 



HER LETTERS 



21 



enemies. Papa has never worked him- 
self thin in his little law practice and 
petty judgeships. And he would have 
puffed out his chest like a pouter pigeon, 
and have said, "What! Am I then so in- 
capable of supporting my family that one 
of my daughters should go out to ser- 
vice?" 

If any of us six had been boys, he 
could have let us work without sacrificing 
his family pride. But it was just his 
luck, — poor Papa, that all of us should 
have been girls. 

And precious Mama, impracticable, 
charming, delicious always, likely as not 
to try to cook a meal in a velvet gown, 
with point lace collar, hand-me-downs 
from this rich, at present crumpled aunt 
who is giving me this trip, — always co- 
incided with Papa in everything, and 
most especially about that. For we have 
social position to burn, if we have no 
money, and Mama loves that social posi- 
tion too well to jeopardize it by having 
one of her daughters do any kind of la- 
bor. 

Our favorite Family Joke is about the 
woman who was a strict utilitarian, and 
who said commiseratingly to Mama, on 
learning that she had six daughters, *'Six 
little daughters to raise. What a respon- 
sibility !" 

Mama gently explained, "They are 
practically raised." 

The old lady's face brightened, and she 
beamed on Mama approvingly, and said, 
"That's the way to raise girls. My 
daughter has been practically raised, 
too." 

Mama minded her of the comment Fan 
had heard on "Those charming, utterly 
worthless Makepeace girls," and turned 
away her head that the woman might not 
see her smile. We tell her that it was 
her passion for popularity that kept her 
from undeceiving the dear, mistaken old 
soul. 

Are you not afraid to risk marriage 
with a girl reared as I have been? For 
our one maid, whoever or whatever she 
happens to be, is better fixed than any 



of us girls, for, at any rate, the clothes 
she has are just her own, and not the 
common property of six. 

Being of a size has had its advantages 
as well as its disadvantages. We have 
usually had one decent suit, one pretty 
evening dress, and one nice reception 
gown. The rest were rag-tags, and the 
first one to get into the clothes went, — 
the other five stayed at home. Fan and 
Lil were too young, anyway, to go out, 
Jen and Mame are almost too old, (I'm 
glad they can't hear that) and Let and 
Net, (meaning myself,) are just right. 

Dont you think that this is enough for 
today, from a fickle-minded girl who is 
trying to make herself believe she does 
not care for you ? 

Hester. 

On Board, the Next Day. 

This seems like an Arabian Nights 
story come true, to me, the wonder of sky 
and sea, and mystery, and the fact that I 
really am going to see the lands I have 
seen only in my day dreams. Even now, 
I have to look closely to see "if this, in- 
deed, be L" 

My glass shows me tlie same crinkly, 
unruly hair, which will look like it never 
was combed, no matter how hard I try, 
the same little freckles across my nose, 
the same, but I shan't dissect my face, 
even for you. 

Taken as a whole, I believe it's not 
bad. At least, sir, you seem not to have 
found it so. And the other girls all said 
it wasn't fair of Aunt Hester to choose 
me, just because I was the prettiest, and 
was named for her. 

But they were dear about it, after all, 
at the last, and sewed and worked to 
make me presentable. I am ashamed to 
tell it. but I have all the clothes of the 
family in my steamer trdnk ; Heaven on- 
ly knows what the others will wear, I 
don't ! 

Now you know the worst about me. 
But you knew it anyway, just as you 
know all about our hap-hazard, happy- 



22 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



go-lucky, out-at-elbow existence, — I am 
selfish, — pure selfish ! 

When Aunt Hester came out from the 
east, to look over her motley assortment 
of Western nieces, to select one to accom- 
pany her on this trip to Europe, and af- 
ter viewing us through her ''pinch-ness," 
as Lil calls it, chose me, I didn't for a 
moment think of saying, ''Oh, Auntie, 
please take one of the others. I'm the 
best looking one in the bunch, and all the 
goodies come to me because of that. Be- 
sides, I have a rich lover that I may mar- 
ry some day, and the others have only 
one between them, — just like their 
clothes, and he's mine." (meaning 
Charlie, you goose!) 

None of this incoherency presented it- 
self to me at all. I was simply over- 
joyed that mine was the good fortune. 

The stewardess says that my crumpled 
aunt wants me. I do hope that she has 
not taken the same distaste to me that 
she has to her food, and is sending to 
say that I am to go back by the next 
steamer. H. 

On Board, Sixth Day Out. 
Tomorrow we will be in Liverpool. 
And, Glory be, I don't have to go back 
by return boat. Aunt Hester had be- 
gun to feel better, and had sent for me 
to take a walk around the deck wath her. 
Mr. Chamari insisted upon accompanying 
her also. He has been so attentive to 
her since we sailed, having the steamer 
chair next but one to hers, mine being in 
between. I do wonder if he suspects that 
she is rich. You see, poverty inculcates 
so many unlovely things in one's mind. 
I am ashamed of my suspicion, and may- 
be, too, I am envious of this generous 
aunt who is giving me this trip. I sup- 
pose having plenty of money to spend 
makes one feel like I felt once upon a 
time. I think I ^aid that I had never had 
a dollar in my life to be reckless w^ith. I 
had forgotten, for the moment, one Day 
of Glorious Prodigality, as we girls called 
it, to distinguish it from other days. 
About a year ago. Papa received a more 



than usually remunerative fee, — I think, 
probably, from some grateful Benedict 
for being again relegated to the "also 
ran" class of bachelors, by the divorce 
route, — and in his usual grandiose man- 
ner. Papa handed each of us girls ten 
dollars, and told us to do just exactly 
what we pleased with it. 

And even the'n, the iceman was knock- 
ing at the back door and demanding the 
payment of his bill! (Jen, who is the 
Family Conscience, lukewarmly suggest- 
ed that we use the money to satisfy a 
few creditors, but a loud chorus of pro- 
tests drowned the feeble effort toward 
reform. 

Poor Papa, clad in shiny-at-the-knees- 
and-elbows raiment and the dignity of his 
ofiice, sighfully relinquished his last ten, 
to stop the clamor of the iceman, though 
Mame, who is the Family Socialist, made 
a speech about the Ice Trust, and the dia- 
bolical manner in which it was reaching 
out to crush, oppress, and swallow, the 
poor. I recall that her metaphors be- 
cam a trifle mixed, and we all w^alked 
out, leaving her with only Papa as audi- 
ence, for he was much too polite and gen- 
tlemanly to interrupt her flow of lan- 
guage. 

I, being not so well-bred, have left the 
count, — for it appears he has a title — 
without properly introducing him. He is 
a beetle-browed, eagle-nosed, Laura- Jean- 
Libbey villain of a looker, though his 
manners are quite perfect, — too much so, 
in fact. There is the perfection of man- 
ner which is inspired by true kindness, 
as in Papa's case, and there is the per- 
fection of manner which is donned with 
one's clothes. I do not mean that his are 
of that sort. I "only do not know. I am 
sure that Fan, the Family Romancer, 
would find a Thill in his life, and would 
picture out a regular Jane Eyre sort of 
history for him. 

They say that familiarity breeds con- 
tempt. I believe it not. I believe that 
the sweetest music is the familiar music. 
An American audience, however high- 
browed, w^ill listen politely and attentive- 



HER LETTERS 



2i 



ly to the ch'jicest arias sung in foreign 
language by a great singer, but when the 
same singer comes back and sings as an 
encore, "Home, Sweet Home," or "Swa- 
nee River," that same apathetic audience 
will be simply swept off its feet, by its 
joyous enthusiasm. 

All this prelude is merely an excuse 
for telling you, — that, — I prefer Ameri- 
can men, — I had nearly said — man ! 

Hester. 

London, June 30. 

It is so big, so tremendous, — it fairly^ 
takes my breath away. Now that I am 
here, I can believe all the statistics I have 
read about this huge city. I shall not at- 
tempt a description of Westminster Ab- 
bey, nor Marlborough Palace, nor the 
House of Commons, for I am nothing, if 
not original. You can read your guide 
book and get all the information you 
like, — besides, you have been here your- 
self. 

What I will tell you, — would you rath- 
er hear it, I wonder? — is that I believe I 
am just a wee bit homesick today. I 
seem to little and insignificant, some- 
how. Now, at home, I am quite an im- 
portant somebody, as you know. But In- 
dependence, Kan., U. S. A., seems a very 
long way from London, today. 

Lil, the Family Diagnostician, would 
say it was something I had eaten for din- 
ner last night that made me feel this way, 
but I know better. 

Mr. Chamari is still pursuing Aunt 
Hester with attentions, — strictly middle- 
aged and eminently respectable atten- 
tions, it is true, — and she seems to like 
it. She keeps reminding me that he is a 
count, an Italian count, because I persist 
in calling him Mr. Chamari, but it only 
seems to amuse him. He treats me like 
a spoilt child, Auntie's precious little 
spoilt darling is how he regards me, 
I fancy. 

No, the Count has invited us to his cas- 
tle, or whatever he calls his estate in Italy, 
for a fortnight, and Auntie has accepted. 
I gave her quite a curtain lecture last 



night about it. Told her I thought it was 
hardly respectable for her to stay under 
the same roof with a man who was open- 
ly courting her. That I would do what 
I could to maintain the dignity of the 
family, but that I washed my hands of 
any responsibility in the matter. ''Your 
blood be on your own head," I perorated, 
in regular Mary Jane Holmes fashion. 
How Fan would have rejoiced to hear 
me! 

You have seen Aunt Hester. There- 
fore, words are superfluous to describe 
my amazement, when she adjusted her 
''pinch-ness" to look at me better, as 
though to see if I meant it, and then, see- 
ing that I was in deadly earnest, she 
threw her head back and laughed until 
the tears ran down her cheeks. But she 
did not explain the joke to me, and I am 
still wondering what I said that was so 
funny as to produce that effect. 

H. 

Castle El Rigo, 

July 14. 

Here I am, and it's lovely, or would be, 
without the incubus! Of course I mean 
the Count. I "can't take a step without 
his being at my heels. I think he wants 
to show Aunt Hester that he has no hard 
feelings about her having an impecunious 
niece to spend money on. I should think 
she would not like it, for he really pays 
her less attention all the time, but she 
does not seem to mind, and is growing 
cheerfuler and cheerfuler. 

You don't mind the Makepeace verna- 
cular, do you, Royal? And it does seem 
so good to indulge in it, for our Italian 
villa conversation is very uplifting, I do 
assure you. Let, the Family High-brow, 
would revel in it, while poor little I sim- 
ply flounder, and swim to shore when the 
water, — conversation, I mean, — is beyond 
my depth. 

If I could be left untrammcled to 
enjoy this feast of sky and vineyard, soft- 
ly sloping verdure, the distant hills, and, 
lying smooth as glass at our feet, Lake 
Geneva, — I could be quite — almost — hap- 



i4 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



py. But this shadow which stalks beside 
me nearly spoils it all. 

Sometimes, when I should be the hap- 
piest, days when the sky is bluest, and 
the grass greenest, and the grapes pur- 
plest, I get to thinking of them all at 
home, — and everything, — and a lump 
comes to my throat, and the hills and lake 
ind sky melt together into one inextin- 
guishable blur. I wonder why. 

Hester. 

The Castle, 
July 20. 

I have at last persuaded Aunt Hester 
to move on. It's all very well for her, 
who has been abroad nearly every year, 
and can come every other year until in- 
capacitated by old age, to linger on here, 
but I may never have another chance to 
see Holland, and Germany and Switzer- 
land — especially, now — 

You know I have been told about 
you and Let, Royal. And it's all right, 
— honestly it is, — Only I was sorry the 
information came second hand. Leslie 
Wilson wrote me about it, said Mame 
hinted to her that you had transferred to 
Let, and then, when she saw the size of 
the diamond Let was wearing, she knew 
it was so. She said you had been seen 
with all the girls, individually and collec- 
tively, so much, that betting was about 
even until Let began sporting her dia- 
mond, and then folks knew. 

I never wrote home about the diamond 
I was wearing, so Let need never know 
about it. 

The folks knew that you went to New 
York with Aunt Hester and me, but I 
guess they did not know that you 
had fancied — Oh, Royal, — how could you 
write me the sort of letters I have re- 
ceived from you, when you did not mean 
them! 

But I do congratulate you. Let is the 
Family High-brow, you know and will 
grace your home better than I could \ave 
done, and she hasn't nearly so many 
freckles as I have. H. 



In Castle Hateful, 

July 22. 
This probably will not interest you, 
but I have discovered that it is I the 
Count has been pursuing, and not Aunt 
Hester. I told him he was laboring un- 
der a misapprehension, for I distinctly 
was not her heir; that I never expected 
anything more from her than this trip, 
except an occasional discarded ball gown, 
and that even that I would have to share 
with five others. (Of course there will 
be only four to share with, after, — well, 
after awhile — for — Let — will not need 

it.) 

He laughed and said, "Oh, you funny 
little American, do you think all foreign- 
ers marry for money ? I do not need to, 
for, behold, I, myself, am wealthy." 

He said it quite simply, not at all like 
one of the parvenues would say it. And 
then he tried to put his arm around me, 
and I slapped him in the face, and ran 
away to my own apartments. I don't 
know what Aunt Hester will say. Prob- 
ably that I am an ill-bred vulgarian, and 
a disgrace to her. 

And maybe he'll challenge me to fight 
a duel, as it is a deadly insult over here 
to slap any one in the face. Oh, what 
shall I do ? I am so far from home ! 

H. 
A Dungeon In Castle Hateful, 

July 26. 

The worst has happened. Not the duel, 
I guess he never thought of that. But 
I am locked in a dungeon, where I am 
to stay until I consent to become a coun- 
tess. I am back in the Medieval Ages, 
it seems. My brain is numb with the 
horror of it all. I have nothing to do but 
look ahead to the inevitable end, for I 
shall never marry him. Royal. As this is 
in the nature of a death-bed confession, 
I will tell you why I will never marry 
him. It is because I love you with every 
beat of my heart. 

I did not know it until he tried to kiss 
me. Now in my despair, knowing that 
you are betrothed to another, my own 
dear sister, I tell you all freely. I have 



HER LETTERS 



25 



bribed the woman who brings my meals 
to. me, to post this letter, bribed her with 
my precious diamond which I have wa- 
tered with my tears. I had to give her 
that, for that hard-hearted wretch would 
accept no substitute. 

She said that her life would not be 
worth a cent if the Count discovered her 
perfidy, and knowing his desperate na- 
ture, I can believe it. She tells me that 
poor, innocent Aunt Hester is confined in 
another dungeon, because he would not 
dare to turn her loose. 

I have figured it all out. Tomorrow 
I shall begin the starvation process. I 
have told myself that each day of the 
three, — is it only three days? Heavens, 
it seems like three centuries ! — but each 
day, I wait until the morrow. 

However, I will wait no longer. Even 
with the hope of rescue, should this letter 
reach you, life has ended for me, since 
you no longer love me. But you can at 
least rescue Aunt Hester, and gather up 
my bones to ship home, it will be a sad 
comfort to the folks, particularly for Fan, 
who always did love a funeral — and there 
will be one less to share clothes with. 

If I were not so sad, I would make 
a little verse which should go: 

Six little Makepeaces sitting in a hive, 
(I have got to get a rhyme for five, even 
if it does not express sense or reason,) 

One got married, and then there were 
five. (That's Let, you know.) 

Five little Makepeaces sitting in the 
door, (Of course they were'nt really, 
but this time I had to find a rhyme for 
four.) 

One mouldered in a ceil, and then there 
were four. 

There, I knew I'd get myself to cry- 
ing. A great big tear is running down 
my nose right now, and I am going to 
just sit here and cry till my eyes and nose 
are red, for there's nobody to see, — and 
nobody to care, except the Count and he 
don't count, — oh, truly, I did not mean 
to pun. You won't think that I did, will 
you, Royal, as unhappy as I am? 

You can write me in care of the wo- 



man who is mailing this. 1 would not 
give up the diamond ring until she agreed 
to that. If the letter is not too long com- 
ing, I may still be here to read it, though 
wasted, doubtless, to a shadow. 

The Count has just stuck his head in 
my dungeon door to know if I had re- 
pented. My only reply was a cold stare, 
and then I turned my back upon him. His 
footsteps sounded heavy and sad as he 
walked down the stone flagging of the 
corridor. Farewell, try and think some- 
times of the poor little American girl in- 
carcerated in this lonely tomb, who died 
loving you. Hester. 

Oh, please don't come, stop where you 
are ! I am so frightened, Royal I am hor- 
ribly afraid, afraid of you ! I did not 
realize what a wicked, wicked, untruthful 
girl I had been, till your cable came, say- 
ing that you were starting, that I was the 
only one, and giving your London 
address. 

And now I must confess how I have 
tricked you. This will reach you in Lon- 
don, where you will have to stop a few 
hours before coming on to rescue me. 

Oh, Royal, there isn't any dungeon, 
there isn't anything to rescue me from! 
It was all true up to the dungeon letter. 

\\ hen Leslie wrote me, and I realized 
that I did truly love you, I conceived the 
plot to find out if you cared for 
me, or for Let. And then, when I closed 
my eyes and felt your arms as they closed 
around me that night when you put this 
ring on my finger, — where it still is, — and 
heard your dear voice saying again and 
again, 'T love you," I knew it was not 
true! 

Why, you have loved me all your life 
and you could not change in that short 
time! I thought that Let's diamond must 
have been from Charlie, for he was head- 
ed that way when I left home. But I 
wanted to know! And on today's mail 
was a letter from Mame, confessing the 
plot they had hatched up, because they 
thought I might appreciate you more, if 
made to think I had lost you, so they had 



26 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



just hinted that to LesHe Wilson, know- 
ing that a hint would be sufficient, — and 
Let is engaged to Charlie. 

I can't expect that you will ever like, 
much less, love and respect me after this 
awful deception. There was a Count, 
and he did propose and try to kiss me, 
and I did slap him, because it made me 
passionately angry that any other man 
than you could offer to caress me. But 
after that, when I went to Aunt Hester, 
and tremblingly told my story, she was 
just a darling, and never lectured me a 
bit, just said she wished I had been a lit- 
tle less impetuous, but that she never had 
cared about International marriages, but 
had kept her hands off, because she 
thought I seemed to like him, and she 
believed in his sincerity, because she had, 
very early in the acquaintance, delicately 
intimated to him, that my face was my 
fortune. 

Then we came to this quiet little Ital- 
ian town to rest up a few weeks and to 
give Aunt Hester a chance to study social 
conditions in this country, a subject upon 
which she is deeply interested. There- 
upon I conceived my plan, knowing that 
you did not know to which town the 
Count belonged. 

This is the whole disgraceful truth. I 



expect you to turn back, — but, oh, dear, — 
if you love as / do, you will come on, — 
even though you know me now as Sap- 
phira. Hester. 

The Next Day, 
Villa of Joy. 

Just a note, to reach you in Paris, in 
answer to your wire, to tell you that I am 
glad, glad, glad, you are coming on to 
your Sapphira, — and to promise you that 
I will never tell you another falsehood, — 
though to save my life, I cannot regret 
this one, — now ! 

And yes, I will marry you now, as soon 
as you get here. I am as near to 
having a trousseau now as I ever will be, 
I expect, so I might as well, for you 
know I have the best that the House of 
Makepeace affords. 

Besides, Aunt Hester intends to buy 
me some things, the idea seems to appeal 
to her. I know now where Fan gets her 
love of romance. 

Make the train come fast, come fast, 
my dear one, for it has seemed a million 
years since you stood on the dock and 
watched me sail away and away and 
away ! And now, never again will I sail 
away from you. Hold me close in the 
donjon of your heart, — it is where I be- 
long. 



THROUGH the 
afternoon Mrs. Brooks loitered, 
drinking in the warm, perfumed 
air, and watching the delicate shadows 
on the young grass. The crisp hem of 
her linen gown brushed the old-fashioned 
flowers bordering her mother's garden 
path, as she joined that dear lady in the 
spacious old arbor at the foot of the 
lawn. 

Sinking luxuriously in a comfortable 
wicker rocker she smiled whimsically as 
she observed, '*My month is up today. 



Out of The Rut 

Part II 
The Working 

Alice May Ashton 

glorious June mother, and like The Virginian Tve 
come to report.' " 

''You seem to have grown methodical," 
said the mother with a look of ill- 
concealed satisfaction. 

''Oh, I expected this," retorted the 
daughter gaily ; "You never could refrain 
from an indirect, 'I told you so,' mother ! 
But I will own myself in the wrong this 
time, dear lady." 

"I have noticed a great many things in 
these weeks," admitted the older woman. 
"Now, tell me all about it." 



OUT OF THE RUT 



27 



"I began that very night, mother. We 
had a pleasant, cosy evening together. 
Then at bedtime I asked the children to 
put the rooms in order; they enjoyed the 
responsibility of locking the doors and 
putting out the lights; now they do this 
every evening without being told, and it 
helps me beyond words. I have learned 
to have a mixture of responsibility in the 
tasks given the children, if I wish them 
conscientiously performed. Jack goes 
with me to the kitchen, and we make 
preparations for breakfast and for the 
morning work. 

'Tn the morning, while I get breakfast, 
Jack attends to the stove and sweeps the 
porches and walks, and the children 
bathe and dress carefully, putting their 
rooms to air upon leaving them. I now 
set mine to rights just before retiring so 
that it is neat in the morning. Then 
Robert goes the rounds with the carpet 
sweeper through both upper and lower 
rooms, and Alarion dusts the upper 
rooms. This does not hurry them, as 
their books and clothing are ready over 
night and there is no confusion as of old 
when everything was left until the last 
minute. 

**The kitchen holds me until ten, and 
it has become a real pleasure to see what 
I can accomplish in that time. First I 
prepare dessert, and do what baking 
seems necessary — I do not attempt hav- 
ing a regular baking day as my strength 
will not permit ; instead I do a little each 
day as needed. Then I wash all the 
dishes, sweep and dust the room, and 
iron or clean until ten o'clock arrives. I 
cannot do the whole ironing at once, but 
find that, done a little at a time, I do not 
mind it. In my favorite housekeeping 
magazine I read the statement, 'Really 
good housekeeping consists in knowing 
when to slight the work and when to do 
it well ;' and I have tried to apply this to 
several branches of my work. 

*Tn the corner of the dining-room by 
the south window is arranged my sewing 
corner. I pinned a piece of brown denim 
over the rug; placed a sewing table, a 



low, comfortable chair, and the sewing 
machine conveniently, and set a big 
screen so as to conceal it from view. 
Any garment that needs repairing and 
all new materials are placed here. 
When my sewing hour arrives, every- 
thing is convenient to be taken up at 
once. I am close to the kitchen, if slow 
cooking is in progress, and can answer 
the door or telephone bell without extra 
steps. I am really surprised, mother, at 
the amount of sewing I have accom- 
plished in a month, merely by having it 
ready to pick up. It is such a comfort 
to have the weekly mending done, and 
the little odds and ends of sewing caught 
up. We have all learned to place gar- 
ments in the sewing corner as soon as 
they need attention, and the family 
dressing is no longer a sort of nightmare 
for me because of missing buttons and 
hooks and- general dilapidation. On 
mornings when the kitchen work has 
been light and I am less tired than usual, 
I take occasion to cut out garments ready 
for future sewing hours when I may be 
too weary for this extra exertion of both 
mind and body. 

"After sitting for an hour I feel quite 
refreshed, as I do not allow myself to 
sew furiously, and can return to the 
kitchen at eleven with renewed zeal. In 
this hour I get lunch, prepare vegetables 
and everything else possible for dinner, 
and spend any additional time until the 
arrival of the family in cleaning silver 
or in keeping cupboards in the best of 
order. I find this daily attention much 
easier than letting thincrs go until they 
need a vigorous overhauling. 

''Immediately after lunch the children 
wash the dishes while I put away the 
food, and the kitchen is left in perfect 
order, with dinner ready to be cooked. 

"The hour from one to two I devote 
exclusively to the house. The lower 
rooms are dusted, the beds made, and 
the remainder of the time is given to the 
thorough sweeping of a room or to the 
overhauling of drawers or closets. 

"At two I invariably lock the doors, 



28 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



remove the dust of housekeeping battles 
by a quick bath, and lie down in a conir 
fortable lounging robe. After a few 
days I formed the habit of dropping to 
sleep at once. My nap hour is so early 
in the afternoon that I am seldom dis- 
turbed. 

"When the alarm calls me at ten min- 
utes of three I feel wonderfully re- 
freshed and ready for my out-of-door 
hour. This I take invariably regardless 
of weather; if callers demand my atten- 
tion, I go out later. I have not missed 
my walk for a single day in the past 
month, and the physical benefits resulting 
from this truly surprise me. Circum- 
stances largely determine how this hour 
shall be spent, but broadly speaking I 
try to divide them in this way : On Tues- 
# day and Thursday afternoon I dress for 
calling, on Wednesday and Friday I go 
for a walk a little out of town w^here I 
find wild flowers and Nature in abund- 
ance, and on Monday and Saturday I 
spend my hour in the garden or on the 
lawn. On Sunday afternoon we all go 
for a walk or a drive together. 

*T like always to get back to the house 
by four so as to welcome the children on 
their return from school. Ah, mother, 
you are wise in your generation ! When 
you set aside this hour for my own per- 
sonal pursuits, I felt that it would be 
subjected to endless interruptions be- 
cause of its being the hour for the chil- 
dren's return. On the first afternoon I 
chanced to read an article addressed to 
mothers, which set me thinking seriously. 
I felt that I had not been doing for my 
children all that I might have done to 
gain their companionship and confidence, 
and that they were surely growing away 
from m.e just at the threshold of life 
when they stood most in need of a moth- 
er's love and counsel. My first step in 
the right direction was to subscribe for 
that magazine for mothers ; and not only 
has this helped me to solve many diffi- 
culties of my own, but it has also brought 
matters to my attention that would never 
otherwise have occurred to me. Even in 



this short time I feel that I have made 
:xn improvement as a mother. 

'T spend a little of 'my' hour at the 
piano, and the children have naturally 
joined me; we now have several duets, 
which Robert and I play while Marion 
plays her violin. This has proved to be 
a new bond of interest, into which the 
children are already planning to draw 
their father. Sometimes the hour is 
spent in contriving some home improve- 
ment, and in this, too, the children join 
gladly; we have planted flowers, worked 
in the garden, and made the porches and 
back lawn pleasant for summer use. 
Frequently from real or feigned fatigue, 
I elect to lie in the hammock, when they 
read to me or offer a confidence that is 
growing very dear to my heart. They 
now seldom fail to appear at four o'clock 
and to remain at home the greater part 
of the remainder of the day. 

"At five o'clock I begin dinner. While 
in the kitchen where I can examine re- 
frigerator and cupboards for supplies on 
hand, I plan meals for the next day and 
make out the grocery list ; this is a great 
help next morning. Being at this time 
quite rested from my morning work, I 
sometimes iron a little, or I put up a can 
or t\vo of fruit or vegetables. Sometimes 
I spend the time while dinner is cooking 
in the sewing corner, or on the back 
porch with book or magazine. Just now 
I am having a^great deal of help in the 
dinner getting. The necessities of a 
possible camping trip have interested 
Robert in cuHnary matters, and he is 
very anxious to learn how to do plain 
cooking. Marion dislikes being outdone 
by her brother, so she has also invaded 
the kitchen. Quite frequently my extra 
time at the dinner hour is, therefore, 
given up to cooking lessons, but I am 
already reaping the reward for my 
patience in that direction. One day last 
week Marion and I went for a trolley 
ride into the country, Avhile Robert re- 
mained at home and planned and pre- 
pared the dinner; it was a success in 
every way. 



OUT OF THE RUT 



29 



"After dinner the work is divided 
thus : Marion puts away the food and 
sets the table for breakfast ; Robert gath- 
ers up the dishes and sets the clean ones 
away ; I wash them, and Jack dries them. 
Then I fold my hands until bed time." 

Mrs. Brooks smiled at her mother's 
interested expression. 

"And you find it a success, Isadore?" 

"Mother, I most certainly do ! This 
routine is sometimes broken in upon — 
there are 'tired days' and 'company days' 
and days when things go wrong in gen- 
eral, but I must honestly confess that I 
am surprised at what method will do for 
housework." 

"Now that you really see that, change 
the plans to suit yourself. I suggested 
them merely as a start for you — every- 
one has ways of their own in these mat- 
ters," granted the mother generously. 

"No, mother, your way is good. I can 
see how I might improve it, if I were 
strong and well, but for a woman of 
limited strength this separating of duties 
is best. I get more actual work done 
than I have in years, yet I am less weary 
at night because I have stopped each time 
short of fatigue, and because the orderly 
manner of doing the work prevents nerve 
strain." 

"And you will learn more and more, as 
}ou go on, daughter." 

"Why, I have already, mother dear, so 
many things ! For one thing, I have 
learned that it is possible to eat in the 
kitchen and yet to do so in the daintiest 
manner, and that it is wise for a weak, 
over-worked mother to do so whenever 
possible. Marion became interested, and 
we planned it together, '^^hy, our dear 
old Revolutionary grandmothers that we 
are so proud of did it,' she exclaimed, 'so 
why m.ay not we ?' So we chose the cor- 
ner by the east window. We put up two 
or three pictures and white muslin cur- 
tains. A rug was spread under the table, 
and a four-paneled screen shuts off the 
rest of the kitchen. We are as nice and 



cosy as possible, and serve our meals 
with the same care that we should in the 
dining-room. So many houses are built 
like ours with a generous-sized butler's 
pantry between kitchen and dining-room 
which so multiplies the necessary steps ! 

"I have learned to take as much work 
as possible to the back porch and so in- 
crease my hours in the open air ; this is a 
great benefit to jaded nerves. 

"I have learned to prepare the work 
the day the laundress comes and thereby 
save much time and confusion. This any 
mistress can do much easier than anyone, 
no matter how capable, who comes to the 
house only frequently. Not only does 
the woman accomplish much more work 
for me, but she does it easier as she often 
asserts. 

"In order to keep the children inter- 
ested in the home management I allow 
them as many conveniences as I can for 
the work. Robert became interested in 
a window brush; I allowed him to pur- 
chase one of them and he now keeps the 
outside of the windows clean. Marion 
wished for one of the new antiseptic 
dusters, so I had her send for one — they 
are only a quarter — and we find it a real 
convenience. She now thinks we should 
have one of the dustless floor cloths, and 
we are planning to get one. These ex- 
penditures are not great, yet they give 
the children a feeling that they are giv- 
ing real, intelligent help. 

"You do not realize, mother, what you 
have done for all of us ! I do not mean 
that nfv' housekeeping is perfect, or that 
there is nothing more for me to learn, 
for I have taken only my first step. But 
it is all so different from the 'hit-and- 
miss' way of living that we have followed 
so long. Jack enjoys the change so 
much, and the new home interests arc 
keeping Robert with us so much more. 
I am actually improved in health and 
appearance, and am finding time to be 
a companion for my daughter for the 
first time in years." 



30 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
JANET McKenzie Hill, EditoF 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^100 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To other Foreign Countries 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the 71 ew. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



Questioning 



What lies beyond the brink of broken years? 
As one who seeks, eyes downcast on the 

ground, 
I day by day complete my little round 
Of duties, stumbling where the mist ne'er 

clears, 

By doubt perplexed, appalled by formless 

fears. — 

Oh, dearly loved who never shall be found 

Beside me any more! — Beyond the bound 

What waits? I question, trembling, blind with 

tears. 
Ah, as God lives, by whom all is controlled, 
No fear can be in all the vast Unknown ! 
There must be light behind the shadows 
thrown 
Athwart the world, — and there shall love 

unfold 
All beauty and all joy of good foretold 
To hope; there every heart shall find its 
own! 

Stokely S. Fisher. 



A youth should always be regarded 
with respect. How do we know that 
his future may not be superior to our 
present ? 



INDUSTRIAL KNOWLEDGE 

THE growth of interest in domestic 
affairs is both rapid and wide- 
spread. The best-patronized schools and 
departments of schools, today, are tech- 
nical and vocational in character. This 
is necessarily so : such are the conditions 
of life. In the future the high cost of 
living problem can never be other than 
most urgent and pressing. The means 
of production are not keeping pace with 
the forces of consumption. The transfer 
of food products from producer to con- 
sumer is not free and natural. It is only 
by intelligent and persistent endeavor 
that we can cope with conditions like 
these. 

Secretary Wilson suggests one remedy 
for the present high cost of living. He 
says, ''Why do not consumers buy direct- 
ly from the farmers? A distribution of 
farm products in this simple way has al- 
ready begun in England, where co-opera- 
tive organizations of farmers are selling 
by direct consignment, to the co-opera- 
tive organizations of consumers 

Farmers' co-operative selling associations 
are numerous in this country, but co- 
operative buying associations among the 
people of cities and towns are few. Aside 
from buying associations maintained by- 
farmers, hardly any exist in the country." 

Here again intelligence and skilful 
training are called for. In the hands of 
the people, themselves, seem to lie the 
means to remedy their ills. Wise and 
intelligent co-operation can bring about 
many good results. Economics, in its 
several branches, should be taught and 
practiced universally in our public 
schools. We must know our needs, then 
work to attain them. 

GRADUATION AND THE COMING 

HOUSEKEEPERS 
T N the present season of High School 
-■• graduation and College commence- 
ment, an immense number of potential 
housekeepers enter the domestic field. 
The mothers have been waiting patiently 
for their daughters through the long 



EDITORIALS 



31 



years of their educational training, and 
now gladly welcome them to a share in 
the home life. The strain of study is 
considered by careful and indulgent 
parents about all that young girls in 
their teens ought to bear. Leisure hours 
and holidays are usually devoted to 
recreation, and the student years are 
kept pretty free from practical duties. 
But Commencement Day opens the door 
of home in a new way to the conscien- 
tious daughter. The wise mother now 
makes it plain that she expects a new 
helper. And help to be efficient must 
be systematic. The daughter, if she 
amounts to anything in the home, must 
have a definite place of her own to fill. 
Certain regular duties should be assigned 
her as her ow^n part. Such a readjust- 
ment of things is not always easy. The 
mother may be one of those self-suffi- 
cient housekeepers who are so reluctant 
to yield any part of their work to an- 
other. The daughter may be a bit sel- 
fish, and full of plans for her own 
pleasures and pursuits. Happy is the 
home where selfish motives are over- 
ruled on both sides, and there is a hearty 
spirit of co-operation between mother 
and daughter. 

Now is the test of the value of the 
years of study. If they have accom- 
plished any good results at all, they have 
trained the mind to quick and accurate 
observation, and to habits of reasoning. 
These qualities are invaluable in house- 
keeping. They are in constant practice 
in cooking; and thev are demanded 
throughout the house from attic to cel- 
lar, from kitchen to drawing room. It is 
in the indirect, rather than in the direct 
results of an educational course, that 
its practical value is demonstrated. 
Language, literature, history, mathe- 
matics and science may not teach a girl 
how to make a loaf of bread, but they 
ought to train her to be clear-headed, 
cool, observing, resourceful, to have 
good judgment, to be logical, to be per- 
severing. With such an equipment, a 
girl of average ability should not be long 



in grasping the essentials of domestic 
science. Since the principles of house- 
hold economy have been enunciated in 
a lucid and scientific manner, the field 
awaiting the future housekeeper is 
worthy of the finest minds. 

OLD FAVORITES IN NEW FORMS 
T N the constant demand for novelty 

which is natural in every family, the 
housekeeper is often at a loss for a new 
dish. She reviews the old repertory with 
a sigh that some new beast or vegetable 
cannot be invented at will. In default 
of altogether new material, there are 
two ways of securing novelty. The first 
is by fresh combinations of ingredients, 
the second, by variations in the outward 
form. What an infinite number of 
permutations and commutations there 
are, for example, possible to the simple 
fundamentals of butter, eggs, flour 
and sugar, by which the making of 
cakes can never come t(^ an end. Even 
so slight a change as a different flavor 
makes a pleasant surprise. And sup- 
posing that one's knowledge is limited to 
two or three kinds of cake, each may 
appear in so many forms as to seem 
a different cake every time. The shapes 
and sizes of baking tins are innumerable : 
round, square and oblong, stars, hearts. 
clover leaves, flowers and animals, and so 
on indefinitely. The commonest ginger- 
bread seems a delightful treat, baked 
in the pretty three-sided cakes of the 
Golden-rod pan. So, too. with breads: 
one often sees a caterer's window filled 
with rolls in all sorts of forms. It is 
like serving a new dish every day to 
provide, successively, pointed Vienna 
rolls, tea rolls, Parker House rolls, 
round rolls, and bread sticks. 

It is the purpose of this magazine to 
help continually along both these lines 
towards variety in food. Entirely new 
recipes are forthcoming every month, in 
which familiar ingredients are so rear- 
ranged as to produce seemingly new 
creations. A special point is made of 
suggesting novel ways of serving old 



32 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



favorites. So the progressive house- 
keeper is helped out of the old rut and 
takes a lively interest in what seems 
a new culinary art. 



B 



THE GOOD OLD WAYS 

UT there are always conservative 
souls who cling to the good old 
ways. Our grandmothers were famous 
cooks in their day, and we shall never 
forget how delicious the old-fashioned 
dishes tasted to our childish palate. In our 
search for novelty we should be foolish 
to neglect the achievements of past gen- 
erations. It is worth while to hold fast 
to the old favorites, as well as to revive 
some that are well-nigh forgotten. Our 
magazine keeps this feature in mind, and 
contains a judicious proportion of the 
best cooking traditions of the past. Our 
aim is too broad to overlook the old- 
fashioned element in due measure. 

THE HOWS AND WHYS 

UNDERLYING all the practical ad- 
vice we oflfer, the aim of our mag- 
azine is to inculcate the fundamental 
principles of cooking, and to explain the 
whys and wherefores as well as the 
hows. The art of cooking rests on a 
definite basis. There is a reason for 
everything, a reason explained by 
chemistry, physics, biology or bacteri- 
ology. Experts are constantly studying 
and formulating these principles, and the 
best results of modern investigation are 
embodied in our pages. There is a right 
way to do each domestic task, and so far 
as we know, we desire to show that way, 
and to explain why the others are 
wrong. None can pretend to be infal- 
lible, and none can expect to say the last 
word on all the important subjects of 
culinary art. It is an inexhaustible study. 
Our aim is to keep up-to-date in all 
these subjects and give our readers the 
best approved results. e. m. h.' 

THE GOOD OF LIFE 

T T is essential for the community and 
state that each citizen should be 



brought up to fully understand that his 
one duty towards himself and others is 
to make the most out of this life, to de- 
velop in himself the possibilities nature 
has given him, and be as happy as pos- 
sible. In this way he contributes most 
to the happiness of others. Let it be 
fully understood that melancholy and 
pessimism, though possibly attractive, are 
sins if they lead to inactivity — as serious 
as any sin in the world. They have to 
be avoided by strict self-control. Life is 
in itself rich, beautiful, and full of possi- 
bilities. Let the young man learn to see 
that, and not pine for what is not. It 
should be always remembered that it is 
not the views that a man holds or the 
dogmas he believes in that are of import- 
ance for his fellow-creatures: it is his 
acts. — Fridtjof Hansen, in Hibbert 
Journal. 

CHINESE PROVERBS 

TO make a man of yourself you 
must toil, if you don't you won't. 

Strike a flint, and you'll get fire ; strike 
it not, and you'll not get even smoke. 

If an ox won't drink, you can't make 
him bend down his head. 

Cheap things are not good; good 
things are not cheap. 

He has the mouth of a Buddha, the 
heart of a snake. 

Who know, don't talk; and even so 
The Chatterers who talk, don't know. 

All unskilful fools 
Quarrel with their tools. 

A stick's a stick whether short or tall, 
A man's a man whether great or small. 

The two words pure and leisure no 
money can buy. 

If Right, though Right without a Flaw, 
Is all you have, don't go to Law. 

The most important thing in life is to 
be buried well. 

The position of the Censor is more 
dangerous than is that of the foremost 
spearman in battle, 




STRAWBERRY SPONGE TART 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a i.evei- spoonful. 



Brook Trout au Bleu 

LET two quarts of water, half a 
cup of cider vinegar, one table- 
spoonful of salt, one-fourth a 
green pepper or half a chili pepper, three 
young carrots, one onion, two sprigs of 
sweet basil and four or five parsley 
branches simmer one hour, then press 
through a fine sieve and reheat to the 
boiling point in a shallow broad basin. 
Ten minutes before time to serve put 
into the liquid (court bouillon) as many 
fresh-caught and carefully cleaned trout 
as the boiling Hquid will cover, without 
ceasing to boil. The skin will shrivel 
and break ; then let simmer from six to 
eight minutes longer. Drain the fish, 
dispose them upon a hot napkin on a 
plate, and surround with parsley. Serve 
Hollandaise or drawn butter sauce in a 
dish apart. 



Lobster-and-Halibut 
Casserole 



en 



Use a slice of halibut weighing about 
a pound and a half and a cooked lobster 
of the same weight. Remove the fillets 
of halibut and cut each in three pieces; 
remove the lobster flesh and cut the tail 
and large claw portions in pieces about 
the size of the fish. Cover the body 
bones of the lobster and the trimmings 
of the fish and one onion, cut in slices, 
one carrot in slices, two branches of 
parsley and one branch of sweet basil 
with cold water; let simmer half an 
hour, strain and set aside until ready to 
use. About twenty minutes before time 
to serve, put the pieces of fish in a but- 
tered casserole and add a teaspoonful of 
grated onion, half a teaspoonful of salt 
and enough of the hot fish stock to cover 
the fish; cover the casserole and let the 



33 



34 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



fish cook about fifteen minutes. Add 
three crackers, rolled to meal, and three 
tablespoonfuls of butter, in little bits, and 
mix thoroughly; then add the lobster, 
cover and let become very hot, when the 
dish is ready to serve. 

Scalloped Clams, Rockport Style 

Take a quart of clams, remove and set 
aside the soft part, discard the black neck 
and chop fine the remainder of the clams. 
Add the chopped clams to the juice and 
soft part. Mix one cup and a half of 
cracker crumbs with a scant two-thirds 
a cup of melted butter. Butter an 
earthen au gratin dish and fill the dish 
with alternate layers of the buttered 
crumbs and prepared clams, having the 
first and last layer of crumbs. Season 
the crumbs with salt and pepper. Let 



carefully with a damp cloth and spread 
in a well-oiled broiler. Brush over with 
butter and broil over coals about ten 
minutes on the flesh side and five min- 
utes on the shell side ; or, cook in the 
oven about fifteen minutes. Set the lob- 
ster on a hot platter and crack the shells 
of the large claws. Serve melted butter 
in a dish apart. If preferred the meat 
may be removed from the shell before 
the dish is sent to table. The shell, if re- 
tained, helps to keep the lobster hot while 
it is being eaten. 

Broiled Lobster 

The above is the usual way of cooking 
broiled, live lobster, but, cooked according 
to this special formula, the meat is more 
moist and less hard. Cook the lobster in 
court bouillon about fifteen minutes. (A 




BROILED LIVE LOBSTER 



bake nearly one hour in a slow oven. 
Or, if the dish is shallow (two layers of 
clams), bake about half an hour. Serve 
at once. 

Broiled Live Lobster 

With a strong, pointed knife make a 
deep, quick cut at the mouth of the lob- 
ster, then draw the knife, firmly but 
quickly, through the body and entire 
length of tail ; with the fingers spread 
open the lobster to the center, and take 
out the stomach (or lady) and the in- 
testinal vein, which runs from the stom- 
ach through to the tip of the tail ; wipe 



recipe for court bouillon is given under 
Brook Trout au Bleu.) Then split 
lengthwise, sprinkle generously with 
melted butter and let cook about five 
minutes, less rather than more, in a well- 
oiled broiler over a rather dull fire. 
Break open the claws, set on a hot plate, 
and surround with parsley. Serve melted 
butter, highly flavored with cayenne in a 
sauce boat. 

Sardines with Potato Salad 

For one pint (generous measure) of 
cold, cooked potatoes, cut in cubes, chop, 
fine, one slice of mild onion, one-fourth 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



35 



a green pepper, three olives, three 
branches of parsley and one tablespoon- 
ful of picalilli. Add the chopped mixture 



Before setting the hsh into the oven be- 
gin the preparation of the sauce. Slice 
an onion and a green pepper very fine; 




SARDINES, WITH POTOTO SALAO 



to the potatoes with half a teaspoonful 
of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
paprika, three tablespoonfuls of olive oil 
and one tablespoonful and a half of cider 
vinegar. Mix all together thoroughly 
and turn into a salad bowl. When ready 
to serve dispose sardines, freed from oil 
on a soft cloth, against the salad and 
entirely around it. Finish with a table- 
spoonful or more of fine-chopped cooked 
beets above the sardines. Serve with 
Boston brown bread. 

Fresh Mackerel, Baked, Creole 
Style 

Split a carefully cleaned mackerel and 



let cook in two tablespoonfuls of oil or 
butter eight or ten minutes, stirring con- 
stantly ; add one-fourth a clove of garlic, 
chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls of 
flour; when the flour is absorbed and 
cooked, add a cup and a half of tomato, 
half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley and stir until boil- 
ing; let simmer ten minutes, then pour 
over the mackerel in the dish and let 
cook in the oven a second fifteen minutes. 
Before serving add six canned mush- 
rooms, cut in quarters. 

Scalloped Chicken and Kornlet 




SCALLOPED CHICKEN AND KORNLET 



set into an agate dish ; brush over the 
flesh side with melted butter and set into 
the oven to bake for fifteen minutes. 



For a can of kornlet and one cup of 
chicken or veal, chopped fine, make one 
cup and a half of white or tomato sauce. 



36 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Butter an au gratin dish, or a dozen in- 
dividual dishes. Put the three articles 
into the recptacle, in layers, having the 
first of kornlet and the last of sauce. 
Use kornlet as the alternate layer, each 
time. Let bake from ten to fifteen min- 
utes. Serve hot as the chief dish at sup- 
per or luncheon. 

Fricassee of Veal 

Cut veal steak, from the leg, into 
pieces an inch and a half long, roll these 
in flour and let cook in hot, salt pork fat 
until well-browned, turning as needed, 
that the meat be brow led on all sides. 
Pour in boiling water or light stock to 
cover the meat, and let simmer until 
tender, an hour or more. For three cups 
of material, melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter; in this cook three tablespoonfuls 



ient article in which to shape the potato. 
Fine-chopped parsley, sprinkled over the 
shapes of potato, is an improvement to 
the looks of the dish. 

Chicken Creole 

Clean two spring chickens and cut into 
pieces at the joints; season with salt and 
pepper. 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into 
a stew pan and, when it melts, add the 
chicken. Let this brown slowly for five 
minutes. Have ready three large onions, 
sliced; add these to the chicken and let 
them brown, (every inch must be nicely 
browned, but not in the slightest degree 
burned.) Add two tablespoonfuls of 
flour; let this brown, then add a half 
dozen large, fresh tomatoes, sliced, and 
let these brown, cooking very slowly, 




FRICASSEE OF VEAL 



of flour and a scant teaspoonful of salt, 
and set aside to cool ; then add some of 
the liquid from the meat and stir until 
smooth and boiling; then return the 
whole to the meat. Have ready, cooked, 
well-seasoned and hot, about a pint of 
string beans, and a quart of mashed 
potato. Press potato into a cup, then 
unmold on a hot platter ; repeat until a 
border is formed on the dish, having the 
shapes of potato, a little distance apart. 
Set string beans between the shapes of 
potato and pour the meat with sauce 
into the center of the dish. A round- 
bottomed, ice-cream server is a conven- 



allowing the mixture simply to simmer. 
Add chopped parsley, thyme and bay 
leaf, and two cloves of garlic, minced 
fine. Let all brown without burning. 
Cover and let smother over a slow but 
steady fire. The tomato juice will make 
sufficient gravy. Add half a dozen green 
peppers (sweet), taking the seeds out 
before adding, and slicing the peppers 
very fine. Stir well. Let all smother 
steadily for twenty minutes, at least, 
keeping well covered and stirring occa- 
sionally. When well smothered, add one 
cup of consomme ; let cook again for 
a full hour, very, very slowly over a 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



^7 



very steady fire, and season again to 
taste. Cook ten minutes more, and serve 
hot. 



beaten dry. Set the blazer into the hot 
water pan, cover and let cook until the 
tgg is set. 




chickea souffle, ready in blazer 



Chicken Souffle, Chafing Dish 
Style 

In the blazer melt a tablespoonful of 
butter ; in this cook one tablespoonful of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of pepper ; add one 
cup of chicken broth or milk, and stir 
until boiling, then stir one-fourth a cup 
of soft, sifted bread crumbs, a table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoon- 
ful of scraped onion, and one cup of 
chopped chicken ; stir until again boiling, 
then beat in the yolks of two eggs, beaten 
light, and fold in the whites of the eggs, 



Cabbage Salad, French Fashion 

Cut a small new cabbage in quarters 
and let stand in ice water to chill ; swing 
in a cloth until dry, cut out and discard 
the hard center, then shred very fine ; 
shred also, a green pepper, freed from 
seeds and veins, exceedingly fine, and 
prepare a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley. For a pint of material, mix half 
a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of mustard and pepper^ 
four tablespoonfuls of oil and two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. When thoroughly 
blended dispose on a serving dish. Gar- 




CABBAGE SALAD. FRENCH FASHION 



38 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



nish with figures cut from slices of 
cooked beet and with lengthwise quarters 
of hard-cooked eggs. 

Yvette Salad 

Take equal measures of celery, cut in 
thin slices, or sprigs of cress, lean, 
cooked ham or corned beef or tongue in 
tiny cubes and half as much of pimentos, 
cut in half-inch squares. Dress with 
mayonnaise dressing. 

Green Peppers, Stuffed 

Dip, one by one, three green peppers 
into boiling water; after a moment, re- 
move and with a cloth rub off the outer 
skin ; cut them in halves, lengthwise, and 
remove seeds and veins. Chop, fine, a 
slice of mild onion and let cook in a table- 
spoonful of melted butter ; add a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped, cooked ham 



Serve as the main dish at luncheon or 
supper, or as an entree at dinner. This 
stuffing may be used for artichokes. 

Asparagus Sprew, Buttered 

Cut off the tips of asparagus stalks. 
These tips should be two inches in length. 
Set these to cook by themselves in boil- 
ing, salted water. Cut the remainder of 
the tender stalks into half-inch lengths 
and cook as usual. Have ready squares 
of toasted bread ; drain the water from 
the asparagus, dip the edges of the toast 
in the hot asparagus water and spread 
generously with butter. Put one-fourth 
a cup of butter into the bits of asparagus 
with salt and pepper as needed; shake 
until the asparagus has taken up the 
butter, then dispose on the toast. Set the 
tips above the sprew, sprinkle with 
melted butter and serve at once. 




ASPARAGUS SPREW, BUTTERED 



and let cook one minute ; add a table- 
spoonful of flour, and when blended with 
the butter add half a cup of broth and 
stir until boiling ; add four cooked mush- 
rooms, chopped, half a teaspoonful of 
fine-chopped parsley and half a cup of 
raw sausage meat. Season with a gen- 
erous fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
when thoroughly mixed let cook five to 
ten minutes, stirring occasionally ; add 
about half a cup of sifted, soft bread 
crumbs and use to fill the prepared pep- 
pers. Spread buttered cracker crumbs 
(one-third a cup of butter, two-thirds a 
cup of crumbs) over the mixture and let 
bake until the crumbs are browned. 



Stewed Cabbage 

Remove any imperfect leaves from a 
head of new cabbage, cut in quarters and 
discard the hard portion in the center. 
Let stand in cold water about an hour ; 
drain and shred rather coarse. Cover 
with boiling water and let cook, partly 
covered, from half to three-fourths of 
an hour ; drain in a colander and return 
to the fire with (for a quart) a cup of 
cream and stir until boiling; add a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, and a tablespoonful of butter, in 
little bits. Let simmer two or three 
minutes, then serve. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



39 



Stewed Cabbage, Hollandaise 

Cook the cabbage as above and return 
to the fire. Beat one-third a cup of but- 
ter to a cream ; beat in the yolks of three 
eggs, one at a time, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, a teaspoonful of salt and the 
juice of a lemon ; stir this through the 
hot cabbage; let cook a moment, without 
boiling, when the dish is ready to serve. 

French Artichokes 

Two distinct portions of a French or 
globe artichoke are eaten : the heart or 
bottom which holds the purple (white 
when suitable for cooking) flowerets, and 
the lower ends of the sepals. In the 
illustration these two portions are shown 
as one dish. Often the choicer part, the 
bottoms, or hearts, are served separately, 
one as a service. Then the sepals form- 
ing the calyx, with sauce in the center, 
are served without the heart. The calyx 
of one artichoke constitutes a service. 
This custom is quite universal in clubs, 
restaurants and hotels where large num- 
bers are served a la carte. To eat the 
low^er ends of the sepals, take a sepal in 
the fingers, dip the lower end into the 
sauce provided, and draw the lower part 
of the sepal, between the teeth, to sep- 
arate the edible from the unedible por- 



and cut the stem close to the sepals. Rub 
over the cut surface of the stem with the 




FRENCH ARTICHOKE, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 

juice of a lemon, to keep it white. Set 
to cook in boiling, salted water and let 
boil until the heart is tender. Pull back 
the sepals, to rest on the plate in a circle 
around the heart ; with a spoon lift the 
flowerets (white or purple) from the 
heart, to which they are attached. The 
outer flowerets resemble the sepals in 
shape, the inner ones are like the purple 
or white part of a thistle. At this sea- 
son of the year artichokes are plentiful 
and sell for about fifteen cents each. 

Artichoke Bottoms, Stuffed 

Cook the artichokes and free them of 
sepals and flowerets ; trim them neatly 
and set on a buttered dish ; stufif with 
D'Uxelles preparation, cover with but- 




POP OVERS 

tion. Hollandaise, Bechamel or drawn tered cracker crumbs and set into tht 
butter sauce are suitable. oven long enough to brown the crumbs. 



French Artichokes, Boiled 

Pull ofif all coarse or discolored sepals, 



D'Uxelles Preparation 

Peel and blanch an onion ; chop and 



40 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



let cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter; 
add a cup of chicken broth and let sim- 
mer until the onion is tender; press 
through a sieve and add enough cream to 
fill a cup (with puree and cream.) Melt 
one-fourth cup of butter and add half a 
cup of flour; when cooked add the puree 
and cream and stir until boiling. Chop 
one-fourth a pound of mushrooms and 
cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter un- 
til dry; then add to the sauce, with salt 
to season. 




CURATE FOR AFTERNOON TEA 



Pop Overs 

Beat one whole egg and one yolk un- 
til light ; add half a cup of milk and beat 
thoroughly, then sift in one cup of flour 
and half a teaspoonful of salt and beat 
(Dover or Holt egg beater) until per- 
fectly smooth, then beat in a second half 
cup of milk. Have hot on the stove half 
a dozen earthen pop-over cups; turn in 
the mixture and remove the cups to the 
oven. Let bake about fifty minutes in a 
rather hot oven. 

Strawberry Sponge Tart 

Bake a sponge cake in a round tin with 
straight sides. The cake made with 
potato flour, given many times in this 
magazine, is one of the best for this pur- 
pose. Score the top of the cake half an 
inch from the edge, then remove the 
center to have a cake rather thicker than 
half an inch on the bottom and sides. 
Boil one-fourth a cup, each, of granu- 
lated sugar and water two or three min- 
utes, then beat in confectioner's sugar to 
make a frosting; spread this over the 
top edge and sides of the cake, sprinkling 
it with fine-chopped pistachio nuts as 
fast as it is spread — (the frosting dries 
very quickly.) Fill the cake with one or 
two baskets of strawberries, cut in halves 
and mixed with sugar. Serve a pitcher 
of cream separately. 

Rolled Almond Wafers 

Use large eggs ; beat the whites of four 
eggs until pretty light, beat about half as 
much as for cake ; beat in four ounces 
of blanched almonds, chopped exceeding- 
ly fine, two level tablespoonfuls of sifted 
flour and half a cup and two level table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Spread on well- 
oiled baking sheets in two and one-half 
inch squares. Bake to a delicate amber 
color in a rather quick oven. At once 
roll them on the handle of a wooden 
spoon into cylinder shape. Serve plain 
or filled with whipped cream. 

Vienna Macaroons 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



41 



I 



Work the white of an egg (unbeaten) 
into half a cup of almond paste. When 
the tgg and paste are evenly blended, 
gradually work in three-fourths a cup of 
powdered sugar. Beat thoroughly with 
the hand. This should make a rather 
soft paste, but one that can be handled 
if taken a little at a time. Use pow- 
dered sugar on the board and pin, and 
pat into a sheet one-eighth an inch thick. 
Cut into ovals, crescents ; re-lift to a tin, 
buttered and dredged with flour, then 
pipe meringue on each, dredge with gran- 
ulated sugar and let bake in a rather 
slow oven. For the meringue, beat the 
whites of two eggs dry, then gradually 
beat in half a cup of granulated sugar. 

Cranberry Sauce, Evaporated 
Cranberries 

To one package (about one cup and a 
half) of evaporated cranberries, add two 
cups of cold water and let stand about 
two hours. Cook in a porcelain-lined 
dish about ten minutes, press through a 
sieve, stir in at once, while hot, a cup to 
a cup aiid a half of sugar and turn into 
a serving dish. The straining may be 
omitted. 

How to Boil Rice 

When properly boiled rice should be 
snowy white, perfectly dry and smooth, 
and every grain separate and distinct. 
To attain this end, put a quart of water 
on the fire, and let it boil, with a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Blanch a cup of rice in 
cold water. When the water commences 
to boil well, add the rice. Stir occasion- 
ally and gently with a wooden spoon. 
The boiling water will toss the grains of 
rice, and prevent them from clinging to- 
gether. As soon as the grains commence 
to soften, do not under any circumstances 
stir or touch the rice again. Let it con- 
tinue to boil rapidly for about twenty 
minutes, or until the grains begin to 
swell out and appear to thicken. This 
is easily ascertained by touching one of 
the grains with your finger. When it 
has reached this stage, take the cover off, 



pour off the water, and set the pot in the 
oven, so that the rice may swell up. Let 
it stand in the oven about ten minutes. 
Do not let it brown, but simply dry, — 
that is, let the water that rises dry out 
of the rice. Take it off and let it stand 
a few minutes. Then pour out into a 
dish. Every grain will be white and 
beautiful, and stand apart, because the 
drying in the oven will have evaporated 
the moisture, leaving the rice soft, snowy 
white and perfectly dry. Boiled rice is 
delicious, served with chicken, turkey, 
crab, shrimp or okra gumbo, as also with 
many vegetables, all daubes, and with 
gravies of all kinds. It is the standing 
dish on every Creole table. 

Things to Remember in Boiling 
Rice 

Never set the rice to cook in cold 
water, or you will have a thick mushy 
dish that is most unpleasant to the sight, 
and equally so to the taste. Always use 
boiling water. Boil rapidly from the 
time that the pot is covered until it is 
taken off, for this allows each grain to 
be tossed away from the other constantly, 
and also allows it to swell to three times 
its normal size. The constant motion of 
the water prevents the grains from stick- 
ing together. Do not stir from the mo- 
ment it begins to boil, for it will be no- 
ticed that, when the rice is first put into 
the water, it will cease boiling till the 
rice is heated. Stir occasionally during 
this period, to keep it from sinking to 
the bottom and burning, but do not touch 
it with a spoon or fork, or anything, once 
it has commenced boiling. Following im- 
plicitly the directions about setting in the 
oven, and allowing the rice to ''sweat," 
as the old Creoles say, you will then have 
a dish that is not only very beautiful and 
tempting to the sight, but most delectable 
to the taste. 

To l^lanch rice set it, in plenty of cold 
water, over a quick fire, let boil two min- 
utes, drain, rinse in cold water and drain 
again. Then set to cook in some torm of 
boiling liquid. 



Menus for a Week in June 



"There is abundant evidence that all classes of vegetables and fruits may be held 
in a sound condition without the use of preservatives." — Jordan. 



Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuits or 

Pop Overs 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb Broth, with Rice 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded, Tomato Sauce 

Asparagus Sprew, Buttered 

Strawberry Ice Cream 

Vienna Macaroons 

Half Cups of Coffee 

. Supper 

Broiled Live Lobster, Melted Butter 

Southern Beaten Biscuit or 

English Muffins, Toasted 
Shredded Pineapple, Sugared 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon 

Fried Bananas, Fried Mush 

Yeast Doughnuts (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Spinach Soup 

Broiled Lamb Chops 

New String Beans 
French Fried Potatoes 

Rhubarb Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Potato Salad, with Sardines 

Boston Brown Bread or 

Graham Bread 

Strawberries Tea 



Breakfast 

French Omelet 

Creamed Potatoes 

Corn Meal Breakfast Cake 

Stewed Peaches (evaporated) 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Fricassee of Veal 

Mashed Potato, String Beans 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Chocolate ficlairs 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cold Boiled Tongue, Sliced Thin 

Cold String Beans, French Dressing 

Nut Bread 

Stewed Prunes 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Calf's Liver and Bacon, Radishes 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Twin Mountain Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Bluefish 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Mashed Potatoes 

Dried Peach Pie 

Cream Cheese 

Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican Rabbit 

Shredded Pineapple 

Tea 

Almond Wafers 



Breakfast 

Broiled Hamburg Steak, Bacon 
Fried Potatoes, Spider Corn Cake 
Cocoa Coffee 
Dinner 
Loin of Veal, Stuffed, Roasted ' 
Cranberry Sauce 
(Dried or canned in water.) 
New Onions, Boiled 
Lettuce, French Dressing- 
Grape Juice Sherbet 

Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Scalloped Kornlet and Veal 

Bread and Butter 

Strawberries, Tea 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Balls, Cucumbers 

Nun's Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato Soup 

Broiled Schrod 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce 

Strawberry Sponge Tart 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Toast 

Scrambled Eggs 

Evaporated Peaches, Stewed 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Brook Trout, Fried 

Cucumbers or Pickles 

New Potatoes, Baked 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Tomato Bouillon 

Veal Croquettes 

Andalouse Salad 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, 

Vanilla or Wine Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Supper 

Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Prunes 

Tea 



42 



Menus for a Week in July 



"Half an hour's perfect rest before 
meal of the day." 

Breakfast 

Wild Strawberries 

Pop Overs 

Cocoa, Coffee 

Dinner 

Spring Chicken, Fried 

Kornlet Fritters 

Tomatoes and Lettuce 

French Dressing 

Cherry Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Halibut Newburg 

Olives 

Lettuce Sandwiches 

Ginger Ale 



dinner is the best preparation for the principal 



Breakfast 

Creamed Salt Codfish on Toast 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Fricassee of Veal, Mashed Potato 

String Beans 

Cabbage Salad, French Fashion 

Gooseberry Pie 

Cream Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Veal Scalloped, with Kornlet 

Beet Greens 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Prunes 

Tea 



a 

en 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Hash 
Buttered Toast 

Bananas 

Coffee, Cocoa 

Dinner 

Leg of Lamb, Roasted 

Mint Sauce 

New Potatoes Fried (whole) in Deep Fat 

Turnips 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, 

Vanilla Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hot String Beans 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

Cocoa, Tea 



Breakfast 

Scrambled Eggs 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled Breast of Lamb 

Young Turnips 

Boiled Potatoes 

Blueberry Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Lamb Broth, with Rice and Carrots 

Browned Crackers 

Bread and Butter 

Blueberries 

Oatmeal Macaroons 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Broiled Schrod 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter 

Radishes or Cucumbers 

Creamed Potatoes 

Buttered Toast 

Grape Juice 

Dinner 

Round Steak en Casserole 

Kohl Rabi. Buttered 

Lettuce and Peppergrass, French 

Dressing 

Cottage Pudding, Raspberry Hard Sauce 

Half Ciups of Coffee 

Supper 

Dried Lima Beans, Stewed 

Raspberry Short Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Sardines on Toast, Brown Sauce 

Raspberries 

Pop Overs 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled Salmon, Egg Sauce 

Green Peas, Boiled Potatoes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Blueberry Sponge 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese Custard 

Dried Peaches, Stewed 

Chocolate Gingerbread 

Tea 



Breakfast Dinner Supper 

Lamb's Liver, Fried Breast of Veal, Stuffed and Poeled Sralloped Clams, Rockport Stvle, or 

Broiled Bacon Half Cups of Coffee Sardines, with. Potato Salad 

Broiled Tomatoes Banana Fritters Hot Boiled Rice with Milk 

Spider Corn Cake * Stev/ed Cabbage (for children) 

Cocoa, Coffee Mashed Potatoes Cookies 

Chocolate E'clairs Tea 

43 



Inexpensive Luncheons for Tea Rooms, Restaurants, 
Public Institutions and Private Houses 



Stewed Lima Beans, Buttered 

Hot Boston Brown Bread (reheated) 

Prune-and-Lemon Jelly 

Coffee 

Potatoes, Dijonnaise (individual casseroles) 

Corn Meal Cake 

Cottage Pudding, Strawberry Hard Sauce 

Coffee 

Salt Codfish Balls en Surprise 

Philadelphia Relish in Lemon Cups 

Yeast Rolls 

Strawberries 

Coffee 

Fricassee of Veal, Mashed Potato 

Stringless Beans 

Hot Tapioca Custard Pudding 

Strawberry Hard Sauce 

Coffee 

Lamb's Liver, Broiled Bacon 

Broiled Tomatoes 

Dark Graham Bread 

Lemon Sherbet 

Coffee 

Round Steak, Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes 

In individual Casseroles 

Stewed Cabbage 

Hot Boiled Rice, Caramel Sauce 

Tea 

Rechauffe of Veal, Creole Style 

New Peas 

Yeast Rolls 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce 

Coffee 

Creamed Corned Beef 
Stewed Tomatoes 
Entire Wheat Bread and Butter 
Coffee 

Blueberry Pie 

Corned Beef and Potato Hash 

Radishes 

Fruit and Nut Rolls 

Cocoa 



Veal Croquettes 

Peas, with Carrots 

Sliced Tomatoes, Fresh Dressing 

Rhubarb Pie 

Coffee 

Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 
Cress-and-Tomato Salad 
Coffee Jelly 
Chocolate Cake 

Strawberry or Raspberry Shortcake 

Toasted Crackers, Cheese 

Cocoa 

Veal Broth, with Macedoine of Vegetables 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Strawberries 

Tea 

Salm.on Croquettes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Yeast Rolls 

Pineapple Milk Sherbet 

Sponge Drops 

Coffee 

Clam or Fresh Fish Chowder 

Toasted Crackers 

Stewed Cabbage 

Frozen Apricots, Cookies 

Broiled Schrod. Maitre d'Hotel Butter 

Mashed Potatoes, Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Rolls 

Rhubarb Jelly, Whipped Cream 

Macaroni Milanaise 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

Cocoa 

Cheese Croquettes 

Lettuce and Tomatoes. French Dressing 

Graham Biscuit 

Small Cream Cakes 

Dried Beef, Creamed 

Green Peas 

Rye Meal Biscuit 

Chocolate Cake 



H 



Serving Meals Without a Maid 

By Janet M. Hill 



TO serve a meal comfortably with- 
out a maid, a small, light dinner 
wagon is of undoubted value. 
When this is not at hand, a small serv- 
ing table, preferably on castors, may 
take its place, in part. 

Another aid to comfortable service is 
a servette in the center of the table. 
With a very light touch the servette 
may be turned at will by anyone seated 
at table; this makes it possible for each 
individual to help himself to water, 
bread, butter, sugar, cream or any article 
of which a second supply may be de- 
sired. Also the plates prepared by the 
host or hostess may be set, in turn, upon 
the servette and thus be sent round to 
those for whom they are intended. 

For service without a maid the pre- 
liminary laying of the table is the same 
as when a maid is employed, except that 
bread, butter, water and such articles as 
belong to all courses up to the dessert 
are in place on the table, when the meal 
is announced. At breakfast, the coffee 
cups will be on the table on a tray, with 
the coffee service, and, at luncheon or 
supper, the tea or cocoa cups will be in 
place with appropriate service, when the 
meal is announced. At dinner, it will 
usually be found more convenient to 
serve coffee in the living room, the 
change of room giving the hostess an 
opportunity to bring in the appliances 
without feeling hurried. 

COURSE I 
Consomme, with Asparagus Tips 
Rolls Olives Radishef 



COURSE II 

Filet of Beef, Roasted 

Mushroom Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style 

Cress and Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

COURSE III 

Frozen Apricots 

Swedish Sponge Cake 

Coffee 

When dinner is announced, each cover 
should be laid as follows: dinner plate, 
holding plate of soup, at center of cover, 
one inch from the edge of the table; at 
right of plates and next to it will be 
found a dinner knife with soup spoon 
near; at left of plate and next to it, a 
dinner fork with napkin near. At the 
tip of the knife is the glass of water 
and at the left of the glass a small dish 
holding two olives and two radishes ; at 
left of this a small butter plate holding 
a ball or pat of butter. The latter arti- 
cle is often omitted; its presence or ab- 
sence from the cover depends on the 
traditions of each particular family. On 
each napkin is a roll. In the center of 
the table is a small bowl of flowers, or 
the ''servette" may occupy this space. 
On the servette or on opposite sides of 
the flowers are a plate of rolls and a 
dish with olives and radishes. The 
carving knife and fork, the gravy ladle 
and an utensil for serving the potatoes 
are in their proper places before the host. 
A pitcher of water and an extra supply 
of butter are on the side-board. 

The soup being eaten, the hostess re- 
moves two service plates holding soup 
plates, spoons and the relish dishes, one 



45 



46 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in each hand, or she removes four plates 
on the wheel tray at one time. The 
beef, mushroom sauce, potatoes and 
warm dinner plates are brought in on 
the wheel tray and set down before the 
host. The hostess returns to the re- 
frigerator for the gre,en vegetables, al- 
ready on the plates or in a salad bowl, 
and the dressing. The dressing may be 
poured over the vegetables in the kitchen 
or brought on in a bowl. If the salad is 
on the plates, it is set down at the place 
where the relish plates w^ere set. The 
salad is eaten with the dinner fork. The 
hostess refills the glasses with water and 
seats herself. 

This course being finished, the hostess 
removes a dinner plate and salad plate, 
one in each hand, until all are with- 
drawn. Or she removes several on the 
wheel tray, bringing back on the tray 



the apricots in sherbet glasses, resting 
on small plates, also the cake. Before 
leaving the kitchen she sets the coffee to 
boil. She now crumbs the table, sets a 
plate of ice before each, a spoon beside 
it, and passes the cake. Thus complet- 
ing the service of the meal in the dining 
room. When the guests rise from the 
table, she returns again to the kitchen, 
pours the coffee and brings it to the 
living room on a tray, with spoons 
and a bowl of sugar. Or the coffee pot 
is brought in on the tray w^ith the cups 
and the coffee is poured after she is 
seated. 

Of course, the beef and sauce are in 
the warming oven, on serving dishes, 
w^hen the dinner is announced. With 
serving dish and spatula in readiness, the 
dishing of the potatoes can be quickly 
done. 



My Lassie's 5kill 



She cooked me a feast, that was "nifty" at She talked rather well, for a very long spell, 

least, Of a woman as queen of the home, 

In a chafing dish over a flame, And they said she could sweep and immaculate 

And thev say she delights, not in suffragette keep 

rights, A house from its cellar to dome ; 

But in joys that the kitchen may claim; But I doubted their truth, for so fair in her 

But a skeptic was I, and I made no reply, youth 

Though I sought for a girl of that stamp, Was the lassie — but sunny or damp 

Till she made me a stew and a roast and a She made a delight, morning, noonday or 

brew, night. 

On the little stove out at the camp. Of the Htle shack out at the camp. 

A prey to her wiles, to her charms and her 
smiles. 
To the city I followed her back, 
And I pictured the scene, when I whispered 
"My Queen, 
I am confident nothing you lack. 
You will make me a wife the delight of my 
life;" 
But, picture my wrath at the scamp. 
When her finger I found by another's ring 
bound, 
And, alone, I went back to the camp. 

Lalia Mitchell. 





^. .-3!^ 





Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

LESSON XXI 

Bvking Powder Substitutes 



BESIDE yeast and baking pow- 
der for lightening batters and 
doughs, we can use several 
other means for introducing a gas, 
which may expand upon heating in 
the oven and so produce the required 
lightness of the finished article. 
Aerated bread is bread into which car- 
bon dioxide gas has been forced under 
pressure. This, of course, cannot be 
a process used in an ordinary kitchen, 
but we find several mixtures, which 
are lightened by the air that is 
beaten into them and held by the 
sticky white of the ^ZZ^ o^ by the glu- 
ten of the flour. Let the pupils recall 
the omelet and notice that the light- 
ness of that depends almost wholly 
upon the thorough beating and condi- 
tion of the ^^-g before cooking. The 
effect of too rapid or too slow cooking 
is also well illustrated in the omelet. 

One of the simplest forms of batter 
lightened by air is that which may be 
called by different names and used in 
different ways. Yorkshire pudding 
may be prepared by this recipe and 
baked in the pan with the meat, bast- 
ing it with fat from the meat; or in 
hot, greased gem-pans. The latter 
method of baking does away with the 
necessity for cutting the cake while 
warm, though it seems a little less like 
the traditional Yorkshire pudding. 
The mixture may be baked in the hot 
gem-pans and served as a breakfast 



cake or "popover,'* and, again, it may 
be served with a sweet sauce or with 
maple syrup and answer very well for 
a simple dessert. 

Popovers 

U cups of flour I \ a. teaspoonful of 

I4 cups of milk salt 

2 eggs I 

Sift together the salt and flour and 
add the milk gradually, to form a 
smooth mixture. Beat the eggs very 
thoroughly and then beat the egg into 
the mixture of flour and milk. Beat 
with the egg-beater for one minute, 
then pour at once into the hot, but- 
tered pans and bake about thirty min- 
utes in a hot oven. They should rise 
very high and be somewhat hollow 
inside. 

Another form of cake which shows 
the lightening power of the air is 
found in 

Cream Cakes 

1 cup of hot water I 3 eggs 

h a cup of butter liV a teaspoonful of 

1 cup of sifted flour | of salt 

Boil together the water and butter 
and, while it is boiling, add the flour 
and salt and stir it into a smooth, 
thick paste. Cool this mixture and 
add the eggs, unbeaten, beating each 
one into the paste before adding the 
next. Beat thoroughly, then drop by 
teaspoonfuls on a buttered pan or tin 
sheet. Do not place them too near 
each other, as they will spread a little 



47 



48 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in rising. Cook about twenty-five 
minutes in a hot oven. They may be 
shaped in round cakes or long and 
narrow cakes, like eclairs, but the 
round ones are more satisfactory. 
When they are baked, remove from 
the tin and, with a very sharp knife, 
cut open and fill with whipped cream 
or any desired filling. 

Filling for Cream Cakes 

1 cup of milk i a teaspoonful of 

h a cup of sugar flavoring 

1 egg Speck of salt 

4 teaspoonfuls of 

flour 

Mix together the sugar, salt and 
flour and moisten to a smooth paste 
with a little of the cold milk. Scald 
the remainder of the milk and then 
add it, gradually, to the paste of flour, 
milk, etc. Let it boil, with constant 
stirring, until free from all starchy 
taste. Cool slightly and pour it over 
the beaten egg, then cook over hot 
water until it thickens and is smooth. 
Remove from the heat, add the flavor- 
ing and strain. 

(Why must the cream cake mixture 
be cooled before adding the Qgg"^ 
Why must the filling be cooked at the 
boiling point and then cooled, before 
adding the egg? Give a reason for 
each. Why cool the filling before add- 
ing flavoring?) 

These cakes may be frosted with the 
simple water frosting given in Lesson 
XX. 

Another form of baking powder 
substitute may be found in the use of 
soda with cream of tartar or soda with 
sour milk or molasses. From our ex- 
periments we have seen that some 
acid substance is needed to set free the 
gas from the soda. In using soda with 
cream of tartar we are practically 
using a home-made baking powder — 
prepared by putting the two together 
in the proportion of a little more than 
twice as much cream of tartar as soda. 
The advantages and disadvantages of 
this home preparation of baking pow- 
der were discussed in a previous les- 



son. Soda may, however, be advan- 
tageously used in the making of bat- 
ters with sour milk, when, as some- 
times occurs, there is an abundance of 
this article. The lactic acid in the 
sour milk sets free the gas from the 
soda. 



Corn Cake with Sour Milk 



^ a cup of flour 
1 cup of corn meal 
U cups of sour milk 
I a teaspoonful of 
soda 



a teaspoonful 

salt 
1 ^gg 
1* tablespoonfuls 

butter 



of 



of 



Mix the flour, soda, salt and corn- 
meal. Beat the egg thoroughly and 
add it with the milk; then bake about 
twenty-five minutes in a moderate 
oven, in hot, greased gem-pans. 

Again, we have seen, both in our 
experiments and also in the molasses 
puff, that molasses sets free the gas 
from soda. This fact is useful to us in 
the making of gingerbread, ginger 
snaps and brown bread. Sometimes 
both sour milk and molasses are used 
in the same mixture. 



Hot Water Gingerbread 



1 cup of molasses 

i a cup of boiling 
water 

2 cups of flour 

1 teaspoonful of soda 



teas p o o n f u 1 s 

ginger 
a teaspoonful 

salt 
tablespoonfuls 

melted butter 



of 
of 



of 



Mix and sift together the dry ingre- 
dients. Add the water to the molasses 
and stir this liquid into the dry mix- 
ture. When thoroughly blended add 
the butter and beat vigorously. Bake 
about twenty-five minutes 'in a moder- 
ate oven, by the general rule. 

(What material in the ginger bread 
makes it especially necessary to guard 
against burning the cakes?) 

Sour Milk Gingerbread 

h a cup of molasses h a teaspoonful of 
h a cup of sour milk salt 

1 cup of flour U tablespoonfuls of 
1 teaspoonful of soda melted buter 

1 teaspoonful of gin- 
ger 

Mix and bake like the hot water 
gingerbread 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



49 



Brown Bread 



2-> cups of corn meal 
3 teaspoonfuls of 
soda 



1 cup of molasses 
2i cups of sour milk 
1 teaspoonful of salt 
2i cups of graham 
meal 

Mix and sift together the dry ingre- 
dients. Mix the molasses and sour 
milk and beat the two mixtures to- 
gether with a spoon until they are 
thoroughly blended. Steam in a tight 
tin for three or three and a half hours. 
The water must not cease to boil dur- 
ing this time. This may also be baked 
in the oven. 



Ginger Cookies 



I tablespoonful of 

cold water 
i a cup oi molasses 
h a t^iblespoonful of 

ginger 
3 tablespoonfuls of 

butter 



of 
of 



h a teaspoonful 

salt 
i a teaspoonful 

soda 
Flour enough to 

make a dough 

that may be 

rolled. 



Mix as in the recipe for ginger- 
bread. Cut in the last of the flour 
with a knife, as in making baking 
powder biscuits. Be careful not to 
handle the cooky dough, as it is likely 



to become tough. By putting the 
dough on the ice or in a very cold 
place for some time (over night if 
possible) before rolling it, less flour 
will be required on board and rolling- 
pin when rolling. This is an advan- 
tage, as too much flour makes the 
cookies hard and dry. Use about one- 
third, at a time, for rolling, leaving the 
remainder of the dough to keep cold. 
Roll about to one-fourth an inch in 
thickness and cut with a biscuit cutter. 
Bake in a fairly quick oven on a 
greased tin. Be very careful that they 
do not burn. 

Let the pupils review, briefly, the 
different methods of lightening vari- 
ous forms of bread-stufifs, cakes, muf- 
fins, etc. Give the advantages and 
disadvantages of each. Which de- 
pends upon a process of growth? 
Which upon chemical processes? 
What must be present in each and 
every case? What effect upon this 
gas has the heat in baking? Review 
the general rules for baking and dis- 
cuss the ill effects of too great or too 
slow heat. 



The Massolette 

("Prof. Metchinoff of Paris, who discovered that sour milk germs will ward off disease, 
and keep people young, has invented a choco-late-drop called the Massolette, which is 
filled with curative sour milk germs." — Scientific News Item.) 



While Eskimos on gumdrops dote, 
And school-girls fudge are taking, 

The maids who throng to matinees, 
A wiser choice are making. 

The chocolate bon-bon, which so oft 
The youthful fancy pleases, 

May now a double duty bear, 
And cure them of diseases ! 



For sour milk microbes now are caught 

And kept in candy cages, 
Until they thirst to right each ill 

That through the system ranges. 

Old men no more are Oslerised, 
The business world will need them ; 

Old maids may still have scores of beaux. 
If massolettes we feed them. 



With every chocolate-drop we chew, 
The friendly germs come running; 
Grey hairs, rheumatics, wrinkles, too, 
They chase with speed and cunning. 



Nellie Francis Milburn. 



Changing the Winter Diet for a Summer One 

By Jessamine Chapman 



AS the warm, sunny days of spring 
and summer approach, we find 
our winter appetites waning. A 
longing for "something green to eat" pos- 
sesses us as well as the desire to behold 
the bright green of nature about us. 

The question of changing the winter 
dietary for a spring and summer one is 
important and requires thought on the 
part of the housekeeper. There are cer- 
tain conditions which are not always un- 
der her control, in making this change : — 
namely, the products put on the market, 
the limit to be spent in food, and the 
tastes of those to whom she must cater. 
She must, however, make a selection 
from the foods offered by the market, 
and then prepare it so as to furnish va- 
riety and appeal to the capricious appcn 
tites of her family. Her menus should 
vary from day to day, week to week, and 
season to season. 

I. The Amount of Food in 
Summer 

The summer diet should vary little 
in the total heat value contained therein 
from that of winter, although its bulk 
may be deceiving. If a person is as ac- 
tive in summer as in winter, it stands to 
reason that the same amount of fuel will 
be needed to run the body machine. The 
food of the Esquimaux differs little in 
quantity from that of the tropic inhabi- 
tant. The heat required by the body is 
regulated rather by the amount and kind 
of clothing than by the amount and kind 
of food eaten. Therefore, it is not a mat- 
ter of cutting down the total food supply, 
in order to reach the highest mark of 
comfort from our summer diet, but rath- 
er care must be taken not to reduce the 
amount materially, if one still remains as 
active. 

II. The Character of the 
Summer Diet 



1. The reduction of meat. 

It requires energy on the part of the 
digestive organs to digest food, and some 
foods require more energy than others, 
and hence more fuel, to do this. The pro- 
teins (obtained mostly from flesh foods) 
require more heat to burn than either the 
fats, starches or sugars. They are al- 
ways chosen first as fuel for the body, 
hence are called ''quick fuels." In addi- 
tion to this fact, meats contain certain 
stimulants which "whip" the cells of the 
body into greater activity, requiring more 
heat for this increased metabolisra. For 
meats in the summer diet it is jvell to 
substitute, often, less stimulating foods, 
yet containing the necessary proteins. 
Such a diet furnishes protein in eggs, 
milk, cheese, nuts, and vegetables, such 
as peas and beans. 

2. Introduction of green vegetables 
and fresh fruits. 

These are bulky and contain little fuel, 
but they are excellent appetizers, refresh- 
ing without stimulating. They also fur- 
nish valuable salts, — calcium, magnesium, 
iron, etc., replenishing the body with the 
very things lacking in a concentrated win- 
ter diet. They prove superior to any 
spring tonic put on the market. 

3. Increase the amount of liquid. 

More liquid will be a result of increas- 
ing the green vegetables and fruits. This 
is advantageous on account of the greater 
loss of water from the body by free pers- 
piration. The diet will appear to be more 
abundant than it really is on account of 
the increase in bulk. In this fact lies one 
of the recent cures for obesity. 

Three Rules to Follow 

In general, there are three rules the 
housekeeper may use in changing her 
menus from winter to summer. 

1. Make the diet to a larger extent 
vegetarian. Reduce the amount of meat 
(the "quick fuel".) 



50 



CHANGING FROM WINTER TO SUMMER DIET 



51 



2. Do less cooking. 

Substitute green uncooked vegetables 
and fresh fruits for cooked ones. Serve 
fruits and cold desserts more. 

3. Make the diet more simple. 

This can be done without losing en- 
thusiasm for "good things to eat," be- 
cause there will be less work in the prep- 
aration of foods selected. Surely this 
privilege should be allowed in hot weath- 



er. 



Some Sample Menus 

BREAKFASTS 

I 

Fresh strawberries on stems 

Shredded wheat biscuits 

Cream and sugar 

Coddled eggs Toast 

Coffee 

II 

Fresh cherries in cantaloupes 

Broiled bacon Corn bread 

Coffee 

III 

Sliced bananas and corn flakes 

Baking powder biscuit Honey 

Coffee 



LUNCHES 
I 

Lettuce-and-radish salad 

Nut sandwiches 

Stewed rhubarb 

Cup cakes Cocoa 

II 

Cottage cheese-and-watercress salad 

Nut Ginger-bread 

Fresh Pineapple Tea 

III 

Stuffed eggs 

Drawn butter sauce 

Lettuce sandwiches 

Nuts and ripe olives 

Strawberries and cream 

DINNERS 
I 
Lima beans (dried) 
Baked sweet potatoes Spinach 



Stuffed tomato salad 

(Mayonnaise dressing) 

Pineapple Mousse 

Coffee 

II 

Cheese Croquettes 

Green peas Potato Salad 

Alacedoine of fruits 

Whipped cream 

Coffee 

III 

Fruit cocktail 
Stewed carrots and peas 

(German style) 

Fresh asparagus on toast 

Steamed Cherry Puffs 

Coffee 

Note the absence of meat in these 
menus, the protein being obtained from 
the cereals, eggs, cheese, and nuts. 

The amount of fresh vegetables, pre- 
pared as simply as possible, is a charac- 
teristic to note. The substitution of 
fresh fruits, as easy and satisfying des- 
serts, is to be noted. The one hot des- 
sert, cherry puffs, can be steamed over 
the carrots and peas with no trouble. 
The mixing of these is of the simplest of 
batters — flour, milk, and baking powder 
being the only ingredients besides the 
cherries. 

The following are substitutes -the 
housekeeper may bear in mind all during 
the summer months and feel content with 
the result. 

1. Fruit cocktails, fruit juices, etc. 
instead of soups to a large extent. 

2. Milk and egg dishes (souffles, ome- 
lets, creamed dishes) cheese, nuts, in- 
stead of steak, roast, stew. 

3. Salads made of green vegetables 
and fruits, instead of meat and fish 
salads. 

4. Sherbets and ices, instead of ice 
creams. Stewed fruits and fresh, in- 
stead of fruit pies. Gelatine, rice, tap- 
ioca, and custard desserts, instead of rich 
cake, steamed suet puddings and com- 
plicated mixtures. 



Teaching Children Housework 



By Nellie Francis Milburn 



DR. G. Stanley Hall, the great edu- 
cator of teachers, affirms that 
children should never be expect- 
ed to do things thoroughly. It is enough 
that they should be able to do them at all. 
It is an injurious strain on the nervous 
system, when they try to attain 'precision 
and perfection. The little awkward fin- 
gers can only attempt to sew, weave, 
draw or paint under the guidance of tha 
teacher in the school-room, but the 
knowledge is begun in this way, and later 
in life the trained muscles and educated 
brain will enable them to be useful 
v/orkers. 

The principles explained by Dr. Hall 
may be applied to the natural duties of 
children in the home. 

It is clearly recognized by many teach- 
ers and parents that the training in 
household duties should begin at an early 
age. 

Young children always enjoy house- 
hold tasks. Imitation is one of the first 
faculties to be developed, and the child 
of four or five years will be happy if 
given a toy broom to play at sweeping, 
or a set of dishes that it can wash and 
wipe, ''Just like mother." 

A child can be easily entertained and 
at the same time be learning something 
useful if allowed to help the mother in 
all the household tasks. 

In washing dishes the mother can 
wash and wipe all the heavy utensils, but 
ask the child to cleanse or dry small 
dishes or pieces of silver, and then can 
have it carry a few dishes at a time to 
the china closet where the mother can 
afterwards arrange them. In this way 
many steps are saved for the mother and 
yet the child is not made tired and dis- 
gusted with work. 

I remember once hearing a little girl 
say : "Oh, our cook is going to leave and 
Tm so glad. I hope it will be a long 



time before we get another." 

Surprised at this statement I asked her 
the reason why she was pleased, and she 
answered: ''Why we have such good 
times helping mamma do the work. We 
play games when making beds or sweep- 
ing and pretend we are brownies or 
fairies. Mamma tells us stories while 
we are wiping dishes, and John plays he 
is an Express train and carries dishes to 
the cupboard for us ; and, then, when we 
get all the work done, mamma lets us 
make fudge or taffy or have a little 
dinner." 

If a mother postpones the teaching of 
household tasks until children have 
reached the age of ten or twelve years, 
she finds it almost impossible to interest 
them in these duties. 

The social instinct has now been de- 
veloped and they bitterly resent being 
kept away from their young companions. 
Besides this, music lessons, and school 
lessons which must be studied at home 
occupy a coniderable amount of their 
time at this age. 

One of the most essential things is to 
teach children orderliness, and this 
should be commenced before a child is 
two years old. Indeed, a very young i 
child can find entertainment in picking 
up its toys and putting them into the 
proper receptacle. 

Much labor is saved the mother, if 
children attend to their own belongings 
and put away their own clothes. It is 
an excellent plan to have a row of hooks 
placed low in a closet so that each child 
can easily hang up its own garments. 
Each child should have its own particu- 
lar corner of the closet and its own 
bureau drawer, upon which no one else 
should be allowed to infringe. It should 
have its own washcloth, towel and comb, 
always kept in the same place. 

Of course, it is not to be supposed that 



52 



TEACHING CHILDREN HOUSEWORK 



53 



a child under eight years of age can be 
of real help in performing household 
tasks. The mother must take more time 
to "show how" and assist the little one 
in its efforts than she would consume in 
doing the work herself, but she is build- 
ing for the future and will in a few 
years reap rich rewards for the time and 
patience expended. 

An able-bodied boy of twelve, who has 
been taught how to wash dishes, sweep 
and dust a room, or make beds, can save 
a tired mother many hours of hard labor, 
and at the same time be kept under her 
eye. If the work is made pleasant, he 
will really enjoy the active occupation. 

The spirit of comradeship is engen- 
dered by the little son or daughter work- 
ing directly with the mother. A golden 
bond is formed that attaches them to 
home and mother. 

In the difficult problem of keeping boys 
at home in the evening, it may be as- 
serted that there is no surer way of 
making a boy love his home than by 
making him feel responsible for a certain 
portion of the household work and 
management. 

In one happy household of young peo- 
ple, the two young men always help 
mother and sister wash and put away 
the dishes after the evening meal, and 
take turns helping prepare and clear 
away the Sunday dinner, in order that 
mother may not be too tired to go to 
church. 

Boys see nothing derogatory in house- 
work, if the subject is presented to them 
in the right way. 

When the teaching of cooking was in- 
troduced into the public schools in our 
town, the boys wanted to enter the class 
with the girls. When asked the reason, 
one bright lad repHed: *'Why we boys 
go camping every summer, and fine it 
would be, if we could learn how to do 



our own cooking !" 

Several instances of the practical ad- 
vantages of giving boys a knowledge of 
housework have come under my observa- 
tion. 

In one instance, a family consisting of 
mother, father and a boy of twelve years, 
resided in a suburban village. When 
the mother was confined to her room 
with rheumatism, the little fellow, who 
had been accustomed to assist her, took 
charge of the entire work of the house 
for several weeks until she was able to 
be about again. During this period he 
arose early in the morning, and while 
the father was feeding the horse and 
milking the cow, the boy prepared break- 
fast and carried a nice tray of food to 
his mother. He then strained the milk, 
washed dishes, swept and dusted the 
rooms, etc., and always had an appetizing 
supper waiting for his father in the 
evening. Of course, the cooking was 
simple, as the father brought bread, cakes, 
and pies from town. The whole family 
was kept comfortable and the boy was 
cheerful in his work and received much 
praise for his usefulness. 

In another case, the mother of a fam- 
ily died, leaving a husband and five small 
children, the oldest being a boy of ten 
years, and the only girl being but six. 
A relative took the young baby and kept 
it for several years. The father was a 
farmer, who was trying to pay for a 
good farm and could ill afford to employ 
a housekeeper. With some assistance 
from their father, these children carried 
on the work of the home while they were 
attending school. No doubt there were 
many defects in their management that 
a trained housekeeper might criticize, 
but the children were healthy, good and 
happy, and grew up to be useful, capable 
men and women. What more than this 
can be asked for? 




From the Ends of the Earth 

By Sarah Graham Morrison 



SOMEONE has said that mis- 
guided souls who live to eat 
should never make a journey 
around the world, and when one thinks 
of the scant fare at Jaipur in northern 
India and the greasy onions which smoth- 
ered everything in China, he is almost of 
the same mind — at least, while traveling ; 
but months later, when he unearths som.e 
old menus from the ends of the earth 
and glances over them again and recalls 
the spicy odors of foreign dining-rooms 
and remembers the different ''boys" who 
waited upon him, it seems quite worth 
while to make a trip to alien parts for 
nothing else than merely to eat. 

I found several old menus in my desk 
to-day; also my Alaskan totem-pole, on 
the back of which, below the seal of the 
Pacific Coast Steamship Company, was 
printed 

ALASKA CRUISES 

STEAMSHIP "SPOKANE" 

Commander, Howard C. Thomas 

SEASON 1909 

LUNCH 
Consomme Julienne 
Sirloin Steak a la Stanley- 
Sweet Breads with Truffles 
Macaroni in Cream 
Lobster a la Newberg 
Cold: Roast Beef, Roast Lamb 

Roast Turkey Ham Ox Tongue 

Cucumber Salad 
Asparagus 
Boiled, Baked and Mashed Potatoes 
Boiled Rice 
Peach Pie Blackberry Pie 

Rock Cake 
Assorted Pastry 
Stewed Apricots Assorted Jams 

Stewed Apples Preserved Pears 

Peach Ice 
Fruits in Season 
Cheese : 

Swiss Edam Oregon Cream 

American Roquefort 

Tea Coffee Chocolate 

Cocoa Milk 

Tuesday, August 17th, 1909. 

International Boundary. 
I turned it over once more to look 



again at the curious heads and animals in 
reds, blues, greens, yellows and purples, 
and I thought of ''the land that listens, . 

. . the land that broods, steeped in 
eternal beauty, crystalline waters and 
woods." 

The next was a large folder from The 
Grand Hotel, Ltd., Yokohama, Japan. 
Framed in a characteristic Japanese bor- 
der in the upper half of the cover was a 
water scene — a bed of pink lotus at one 
side, on the other, an arbor of overhang- 
ing wistaria, while above and below this 
picture was a spray -of the 'double pink 
cherry blossoms and a cluster of chrys- 
anthemums. But the back! What mem- 
ories of Dai Nippon! Fujiyama, matsu 
trees, the Geisha girl in kimono, eri, and 
ohi, standing in a garden of iris, a gray- 
tiled house, the pagoda, the stone lantern ! 

Inside, surrounded by an equally 
artistic and delightful border of matsu 
and cherry bloom, to the left I read : 

DINNER 

Tuesday, May 14th, 1907 
RELISHES 
1 Assorted 

SOUP 

2 Brunnoise 

FISH 

3 Tai, Sauce Riche 

ENTREES 

4 Spaghetti Venisienne 

5 Calf Head, Venaigrette 

6 Filet of Beef, Sauce Perigueux 

7 Boiled Mutton, Caper Sauce 

8 Veal Curry with Rice 

VEGETABLES 

9 Boiled Potatoes 10 Alashed Potatoes 

11 Asparagus, French Dressing 

12 Green Peas 

13 Sugar Peas 
ROASTS 

14 Ribs of Beef 

15 Chicken, with Dressing 

DESSERT 

16 Pudding Americaine 

17 Genevoise Glace 

18 Glace Apricots 

19 Apples 20 Persimmons 21 Oranges 

22 Dried Figs 23 Strawberries 

24 Lady Fingers 25 Edam Cheese 

26 American Cheese 27 Cream Cheese 



6\ 



FROM THE ENDS OF THE EARTH 



55 



28 Swiss Cheese 29 Roquefort Cheese 

30 Assorted Nuts 31 Raisins 

32 Coffee 33 Tea 

Guests are particularly requested not 
to smoke in Dining Room before 8.30 
p. m. 

On the opposite page was the pro- 
gramme of the Grand Hotel Band : 

1. Lucrezia Borgia Gavatina, by Donizzetti 

2. There's Nobody Just Like You 

3. Bell of New York, March. ...'...'. .Clark 

and so on for nine numbers. 

The beauty of that menu was that we 
were expected to order by number. 

"A land -not like ours, this land of strange 
flowers, 

Of demons and spooks with mysterious 
powers — 

Of gods who breathe ice, who cause peach- 
blooms and rice 

And manage the moonshine and turn on 
the showers." 

My third was a smaller folder, with 
the legend at the top, "Hamburg- Amerika 
Line" and below, an exquisite arrange- 
ment of sea flowers and animals floating 
in the depths. The *'Musik-Programm" 
was on the back and read : 

1. Neptun-Marsch 

2. Triton in der Unterwelt 

3. Seejungfer's Freund 

4. Der ertrunkene Walfisch 

and so on, all suggestive of the ocean. 
To the left, on the inside, was the menu 
in German ; on the right, in English. 

Twin Screw Mail Steamer "Bliicher" 

Wednesday, February 1st, 1911. 
DINNER, CROSSING THE LINE 
Penguin Broth 
Pottage of Sea-serpent 



Roast Shark, Neptunian Style 

Saddle of Sea-lion 

Vegetables from the bottom of the sea 

Cold Albatross 

Compote of Seanettles Sea-weed Salad 

Water-lilies, Shark Sauce 

Ice Cream a I'Aphrodite 

Wale Cheese Submarine Fruit 

Mermaid's Delight 

To Order: Roastbeef 

What a reminder of the ceremonies 
which occurred the day we crossed the 
equator ! 

Much more simple was the menu I had 
preserved of the Christmas luncheon at 
sea Dec. 25th. 1906, on board the P. & 
O. S. S. Oceana, eaten on the blue Medi- 
terranean within sight of Alexandria. It 
was a true English dinner, all the viands 
displayed for an hour beforehand at the 
landing above the dining salon. There 
was the proverbial boar's head garnished 
with green, the lemon in its mouth; the 
"ancient sirloin, full of expectation ;" 
but in vain I searched for the peacock 
pie. The boar's head, by the way, was 
made of a chopped meat, and not pala- 
table to my taste ; but then the larders of 
the English ships cannot compare with 
the cuisines of the German liners. I did 
not hear the cook hit the dresser with 
his rolling pin ; but 

"Each serving man with dish in hand. 
Marched boldly up, like our train band. 
Presented, and away !' 

American Soup 
Mayonnaise of Salmon, Egg Curry 

Roast Baron of Beef 

Roast Lamb Ox Tongue 

York Ham Boar's Head 

Cherry Tartlets Hare and Pheasant Pie 

Roast Chicken (Hot) 

Iced Peaches Spiced Beef 

Tapioca Pudding 

Melton Mowbray Pie, Anchovies on Toast 

Sheeps' Tongues in Aspic 




The New House 

By Flora Huntley 



WHEN a family decides to build 
a new house or even to trans- 
form an old one by additions 
and alterations, the children as well as 
father and mother should be encouraged 
to suggest and plan for the convenience 
of all. 

A very good idea is to keep a scrap 
book or note book in which are put all 
the magazine and newspaper articles 
containing suggestions for porches, or 
fireplaces or general building. To these 
should be added the observations made 
when visiting other homes or when going 
through unfinished houses. Friends are 
eager to give information and advice, as 
soon as they see the plans, and by keep- 
ing all such suggestions in the note book, 
mistakes and errors may be avoided and 
conveniences secured that had been un- 
thought of. 

The height of the laundry tubs and 
dish sink often determines whether or 
not the mother has a back-ache, and yet 
most contractors are allowed to put in 
the plumbing by their own rule, regard- 
less of the woman who occupies the 
house. She must conform to the aver- 
age, instead of having the tubs made to 
accommodate her. And why should the 
kitchen stove require a woman to kneel 
before it every time she looks into the 
oven? A platform under the stove will 
raise . it to table height and save that 
"stooping" which so tires the back. 

Smooth mouldings at the top of the 
mop board and plain finishings save a 
great deal of work in dusting and clean- 
ing. Wall-cupboards for the ironing 
board, which is hinged to the wall, save 
many a pound of lifting and carrying, 
and at the same time gives extra space 
in the kitchen. Mop and broom and 
carpet-sweeper may also have a place in 



a built-in cupboard. 

There should be a toilet on each floor, 
to do away with the climbing of stairs, 
for the saving of steps means just so 
much strength and energy for other 
things. 

Windows and electric lights in closets 
make for convenience and sanitation. A 
disappearing bed, in one of the chambers, 
can easily be made by the carpenter and it 
transforms the guest room into a private 
parlor. It is well to provide this room 
with an extra large closet containing a 
stationary bowl and, perhaps, a mirror 
over the built-in drawers. Such a room 
would always rent to a married couple 
and would be very convenient for a guest 
with children. 

Secret drawers for silver or other 
valuables are generally provided for in 
modern houses, and sleeping porches have 
now become almost a necessity. Built-in 
book-cases, with or without doors, side- 
boards and window-seats can be put in, 
at little expense, at the time the house is 
built. They are less expensive than 
furniture bought at the store and possess 
the advantage of matching the woodwork 
perfectly. 

All empty recesses, such as are often 
boarded up under stairs or behind closets, 
should be utilized for drawer space or 
catch-all-cupboards for shoes and rub- 
bers, for tools, or playthings according 
to convenience. 

The new house will not only be more 
convenient, if all the family take a part 
in the planning, but the children will feel 
a proprietary interest, which will help to 
make the Home a satisfaction, so that 
the son and daughter will prefer to 
spend their evenings there and to bring 
their friends to share its conveniences 
and privileges. 



66 






-1 .>,;>>, - 




.-'.-.**.'>'>v^' 



?ii;^Aviw^jP K '^^M5^ifS£?:.1!$$^ ■ ■ ~ : ' 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received, 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Accepted items will be 



Tact in the Family 

WAS there ever a more difficult sub- 
ject to consider? It is as elusive 
as the proverbial flea that is not there 
when you put your finger on it. Indeed 
it almost defies definition. According to 
Webster's Dictionary, tact is "nice dis- 
cernment." But tact in the family? Let 
us attempt a definition of our own and 
call it, positively, the warmth of heart 
by which we instinctively do the cour- 
teous thing; negatively, the force of 
character whereby we refrain from tell- 
ing others truths about themselves which, 
while wholesome, they would very much 
prefer not to hear. 

It is always delightfully easy to be 
tactful away from home. I myself (I 
have observed) slip on courtesy and con- 
sideration with my dinner garments and 
suave manners with my opera cloak. I 
am quick to spare a stranger chagrin or 
embarrassment; I listen appreciatively to 
tales as old as the hills from those I 
scarcely know ; I dexterously avoid diffi- 
cult or dangerous subjects, with mere 
acquaintances; and invariably steer clear 
of all unpleasing personalities, with 
friends. And all of these things I do with 
but little thought or effort — away from 
home! 

Now I may be an exceedingly warm- 
hearted girl, or no end of a good fellow, 
but by some strange freak of nature, no 
sooner do I enter my own front gate, 
than my charming tactfulness slips from 
me without my so much as noting that 
it is gone. It is a warm afternoon, let 
us say. My '*kid sister" is sprawling 



comfortably, if ungracefully, in the ham- 
mock. I had hoped the hammock was 
empty. I had quite counted on sitting 
there to rest and cool off. 

"I shouldn't think you'd want to take 
all of the only comfortable place there 
is" I say with some emphasis. 

"I guess I've got just as much right 
here as you," she replies, and sprawls out 
a little wider. 

"I'd hate to be so selfish I" 

"I'd hate to be so preachy !" 

And, yet, the little kid sister is a jovial 
little soul, and would have moved over 
or even entirely evacuated the hammock 
at a friendly suggestion. 

At supper time it is my pleasure to tell 
the assembled family what a clever, 
stylish-looking mother a certain school- 
mate has, and how she must enjoy going 
about with that sort of a mother. "I 
know I'd be proud of her, too, if she 
were my mother," I remark. And I 
never see the shadow that crosses 
Mother's tired, pale face, and would be 
quite self-complacently blind, were it not 
that my small brother, whose dirty hands 
and boisterous ways I openly despise, 
leaves his chair to put an arm about 
Mother's waist and rub his freckled 
cheek upon her shoulder. Then, too late, 
I suddenly remember that Mother's 
grace and beauty were worn down in 
constant service to her family, and that 
we never allowed her the leisure for the 
intellectual pursuits that would have 
been such a joy to her. 

This experience should bring me to 
my senses, but it doesn't ; and when my 
pretty sixteen-year-old sister comes in a 



57 



58 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



few minutes late and slips into her place 
with a timid and flustered air, I cap the 
climax. She is a sensitive girl, at the 
most sensitive period of a girl's life; as 
easily wounded by criticism as an open- 
ing bud by a sharp frost. Mother's eyes 
invariably soften when they turn upon 
her, as they do now. Mine harden. 

"I saw you walking home from school 
with that Hamilton boy," I blurt out, 
loud enough to turn every eye upon my 
sister's face. I can't see what on earth 
you admire so about him. It's the third 
time this week you've had him tagging 
along after you. He's becoming quite 
devoted 1" 

When I had scarcely begun, her eyes 
were turned appealingly upon me; and 
before I had finished her face had 
flushed a painful crimson and her eyes 
were misty with tears bravely held back. 
Have I not sense enough and experience 
enough to know that I am ruining for 
her a tender and innocent friendship by 
rushing in, like any fool, where Mother 
and other angels fear to tread? Did I 
but know it, I have laid rough hands 
upon a sanctuary for the mere want of 
a little tact, that gracious lubricant that 
makes the domestic wheels go around 
without a protesting squeak. And how 
quietly do Father and Mother come to 
the rescue! **He seems to me to be a 
gentleman," says Father, and Mother 
adds "Ask him to supper tomorrow, 
dear, so that we may all meet him. I'm 
sure we'll like him. He has a fine 
mother." And then, finally, something — 
perhaps my half-grown conscience — tells 
me that my parents unobtrusively exer- 
cise at home the tact which I ostenta- 
tiously display abroad, and, at last, I 
have the grace to feel ashamed. 

We hear frequently that it is love that 
makes the world go 'round. There used 
to be a catchy song to that effect that 
sounded quite convincing. But, occa- 
sionally, one entertains the suspicion 
that with love alone to steer by, the 
world might very easily fly off on any 
tangential path that presented itself ; 



and that nothing short of genuine tact, 
nice discernment, inborn courtesy — call 
it what you will — freely exercised in the 
same place where charity, too, should be- 
gin, will hold the spinning earth in its 
proper groove and keep it from colliding 
with the rest of the universe. h. c. c. 
♦ * ♦ 
Government Bulletins 

I am surprised at the large number 
of housekeepers who do not know 
anything about the vast amount of 
valuable instruction that can be ob- 
tained from the bulletins issued by the 
United States Government. 

The Agriculture department alone is 
sending out information in this form 
which costs the government hundreds 
of thousands of dollars to obtain. 

A lecturer recently said, "Uncle Sam 
must have faith that the American 
woman is capable of being taught to 
advance in domestic science or he would 
not spend so much time, money and 
labor in trying to assist her." 

Surely, when the average housewife 
wakes up to this opportunity for help, 
she will not be slow in assuring Uncle 
Sam of her full appreciation. 

Let those who do know and under- 
stand, pass the good word along, that 
others may enjoy the feast of good 
things. So right here let me tell you, go 
first to your nearest library and ask to 
be allowed to look over their list of 
bulletins which have been sent to them 
from the U. S. Department of Agricul- 
ture. You will, no doubt, be told that 
you can not take them out, for they are 
there for reference. But you will get 
an idea of Vv'hat they contain. Some 
libraries have printed lists, if they do 
not have the bulletins. When you get 
the name of one that you would like 
very much to own, write to your Con- 
gressman or to the Secretary of Agricul- 
ture and ask him to send it to you. It 
will come from either of these sources 
free of charge. But in case these sup- 
plies should have become exhausted, 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



59 



then apply to the Supenutendeiit of 
PubHc Documents and get them for five 
or ten cents apiece. 

You will be delighted at the way home 
problems are solved after the faithful 
study of some of these little documents. 

If you are in doubt as to the purity of 
your milk supply, send for "Facts About 
Milk," "Bacteria in Milk," also "Milk 
As a Food." You will be authority on 
milk, when you have mastered them. 

You will wonder at your lack of 
knowledge in regard to the common 
hen's egg, when you have read "Eggs 
and Their Uses As Food." 

The new housekeeper or the old one 
who is not averse to new ways will do 
well to obtain "Bread and the Principles 
of Bread Making," "Meats, Composition 
and Cooking," "Preparation of Vege- 
tables for the Table;" while "Economical 
Use of Meat in the Home" tells how to 
lessen the meat bills without lessening 
the required amount of nutriment. 

Before canning time be sure to avail 
yourself of the help in "Canned Fruit, 
Preserves, and Jellies;" also in "Canning 
Vegetables in the Home." 

"Nuts and Their Uses as Food" may 
be the means of bringing to you new 
ideas of the use of these expensive lux- 
uries. 

If you want to make a garden and 
don't know just how to begin, then write 
to Washington and tell them you would 
like "The Home Vegetable Garden," 
and ask them to send along the bulletin 
on "Cucumbers," "Celery," "Sweet 
Potatoes" and "Onion Culture." 

If your front yard needs attention, 
you can get "Lawn" and, also, "Annual 
Flowering Plants." 

One man remarked that, his wife had 
"the bulletin fever and consequently the 
latest novel was laid upon the shelf," 
but the jokes at your expense will not 
trouble you, when once you begin to 
acquire the knowledge and become 
familiar with the scope of Uncle Sam's 
work in behalf of the American horrie. 

E. B. 



Hot Drinks for Dyspeptics 

IV/T ANY, to whom tea and coffee are 
forbidden luxuries, find cold water 
an unsatisfactory, even a distressing ac- 
com.paniment to their meals. Indeed, 
some physicians advise against it, on the 
ground that a chilled stomach retards 
digestion, which leaves the poor dyspep- 
tic between two evils. Few have learned 
the hard lesson of taking no liquids with 
their meals, even though they do not 
question the wisdom of the advice, and 
the demand of both stomach and appe- 
tite for a hot drink with the meals is 
both natural and insistent. 

For those who can take it, of course, 
cocoa is an excellent substitute for the 
mooted tea and coffee, but many find it 
impossible to digest even this with hot 
milk, which is only second to it in dis- 
turbing elements. Pure hot water slight- 
ly salted has solved the problem for 
some; others add sugar and cream to 
their "Cambric Tea," while still others 
find the use of beef extracts more satis- 
fying to the taste as well as nourishing to 
the body. 

Cereal coffees are very generally used, 
and an excellent home-made article, com- 
bining both palatability with wholesome- 
ness, will result from the following 
formula : 

GOLDEN DRIP COFFEE: Mix 
thoroughly together three pints of good 
wheat bran, one pint of corn meal, one 
cup of oatmeal, two-thirds a cup of 
molasses, two beaten eggs and one tea- 
spoonful of salt. Spread in shallow pans 
and brown slowly in the oven until the 
color of roasted coffee, stirring often, as 
it burns easily. To make it, use one cup 
of the cereal to one and one-half quarts 
of water, and let cook half an hour or 
more. If desirable one tablespoonful of 
ground coffee may be added to this 
quantity five minutes before serving. 
Serve with cream and sugar. 

CARAMEL COFFEE is a delicate 
drink, tasting much better than it sounds, 
and possessing the virtue of simplicity. 



60 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Cook to a caramel two tablespoonfuls of 
granulated sugar; when brown stir in 
one quart of hot water, a saltspoonful of 
salt, and one-quarter of a nutmeg, grated. 
Boil five minutes, and strain. To the 
thick brown liquid remaining (about a 
pint) add an equal quantity of boiling 
water (milk if preferred) and serve, 
with rich cream, same as coffee. Or, add 
one tablespoonful of the undiluted cara- 
mel to one cup of hot, malted milk, for a 
very nourishing drink. 

WINE WHEY is made by heating one 
pint of, milk to the boiling point ; sweeten 
to taste and add two wineglasses of 
sherry. When curd forms, strain the 
whey through a cloth, reheat and serve. 

CORN COFFEE: Put two table- 
spoonfuls of washed cornmeal into a 
pint of boiling water ; cover and boil for 
thirty minutes ; add two lumps of loaf 
sugar and one-half a cup of whipped 
cream and serve at once. Or omit sugar 
and salt slightly. 

Marshmallows at Home 

The making of this dainty confection 
is too little understood by our home 
candy-makers, as is, also, the many ways 
in which they may be used. The chief 
argument in favor of home-manufacture 
is the greater purity of the ingredients 
used, which makes for wholesomeness ; 
the second is cheapness, since an excel- 
lent quality of marshmallows may be 
made at home, rivalling in texture and 
tastiness the best product of the manu- 
facturers. 

MARSHMALLOWS MADE WITH 
GELATINE are possibly more whole- 
some than the better-known variety, and 
are made by dissolving two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of powdered gelatine in 
eight tablespoonfuls of cold water. Add 
the same quantity of cold water to two 
cups of granulated sugar and heat until 
dissolved. To this syrup put the dis- 
solved gelatine, and partially cool. 
Flavor to taste, and do not omit a few 
grains of salt. Beat with an egg-beater 
until white and fluffy, then with a spoon 



until soft enough to smooth into a sheet. 
Butter square tins and dust thickly with 
powdered sugar; pour in the mixture 
and let cool. When it will no longer 
stick to the fingers, turn out upon waxed 
paper, dusted with powdered sugar, and 
cut into squares, rolling in the sugar to 
coat all sides evenly. Or roll in pow- 
dered macaroons, or toasted and rolled 
cocoanut, as preferred. 

MARSHMALLOWS ARABIC: To 
three ounces of pure gum arable, dis- 
solved in one cup of hot water and 
strained, put one cup of powdered sugar 
and boil ten minutes, stirring all the time. 
Have one tgg white, stiff-beaten, and add 
on removing from fire, blending thor- 
oughly. Flavor with rose, pistachio or 
orange-flower water. Turn into square 
pans, powdered with confectioners' 
sugar, (-eorn starch is cheaper) to the 
depth of one inch, and when cold cut 
in inch squares, finishing with sugar as 
before. 

MARSHMALLOWS IN COCOA 
are both tasty and attractive; one 
dropped into each cup provides a sub- 
stitute for whipped cream. They are, 
also, a dainty addition to fruit salads. 

MARSHMALLOW CAKE FILL- 
ING is made by cutting marshmallows in 
halves and pressing them into a thick, 
soft icing. Set them closely together, 
and, if both cake and icing are warm, 
they will soften enough to blend into a 
delicious confection. 

MARSHMALLOW M A R G U E- 
RITES are tasty accompaniments to the 
afternoon tea or cocoa. Choose large 
round crackers slightly salted; lay a fat 
marshmallow on each cracker, top with 
an English walnut meat and set in a 
brisk oven until the marshmallows are 
toasted. 

MARSHMALLOW CREAM is a 
dainty dessert, which may well take the 
place of ice cream. Cut half a pound of 
marshmallows into pieces and let soften 
in a double boiler. Whip one cup and 
one-half of cream with one-half a cup of 
powdered sugar, to which add one cup 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



61 



of blanched-and-minced almonds, a dash 
of salt, the softened marshmallows and 
two tablespoonfuls of rich pineapple 
juice or sweet wine. Set on ice and serve 
in glasses. M. e. s. h. 



Two Methods of Child-Culture 

1HAVE two little toddling neighbors 
who represent opposite types of 
childhood, the distinct results of diverse 
methods of training. 

Their homes are of the average good 
American sort, they are about the same 
age, and neither is the only nor the old- 
est child in its family. And the diver- 
gence is from seemingly so small a mat- 
ter that it is well worth every mother's 
study. 

By reason of the method prevailing in 
her home, the little girl is fast becom- 
ing an independent, self-reliant, cheer- 
ful, stoical, industrious, constructive 
child; while the boy daily grows more 
peevish, exacting, dependent, destruc- 
tive, apprehensive and selfish. One has 
very little attention, the other entirely 
too much. The little girl's mother is 
hanging over the crib of an invalid baby ; 
the boy's mother is watching him con- 
stantly, neglecting every other interest, 
and rapidly becoming a nervous \»Teck, 
because of her anxiety over his physical 
welfare. 

To trace the results is easy enough : 

The left-alone child follows her natu- 
ral instincts of play, her imagination is 
developing from constant use, and daily 
experiences teach her numberless little 
things which the guarded child misses. 
He will grow up crying "What shall I 
do next?" but she, dependent upon her- 
self for amusement, will not know what 
lonesomeness is. 

When she tumbles down or slightly 
hurts herself in any way, there is little 
crying because nobody is nigh to sympa- 
thize ; so, gradually she learns a cheerful 
stoicism, whereas the boy soon finds that 
a scream brings him an extra amount of 



coddling. From this one gets the habit 
of cheerfulness, the other of exaggerat- 
ing little hurts and expressing his 
wounded feelings on all occasions. 

Another direct result of this diverse 
training is that the one, left to her own 
resources, must construct her amuse- 
ments, and, to a certain extent, her play- 
things. This not only develops imagina- 
tion and inventive genius, but requires 
a bit of manual work which means that 
much finger-skill. The boy, given what- 
ever he cries for — and always the fin- 
ished product — can do nothing with it 
except to pull it to pieces. Usually he 
demands that his mother do the playing 
while he looks on. Thus in a very sim- 
ple way the constructive or the destruc- 
tive habit is begun, and this, carried into 
larger life, has not a little to do with 
success or failure. 

When any danger, real or imaginary, 
threatens, the little girl, self-dependent, 
turns and flies like a frightened kitten, 
her tiny muscles learning quick action 
that may save her life someday in a real 
emergency. But the boy under similar 
conditions simply stays where he is, sets 
up a wail, and weakly holds out his 
hands for the help which, just now, is 
ever at hand. Thus fear will become to 
him a paralyzing thing, and serious, in- 
deed, may be the consequences. For our 
behavior under suddenly changed condi- 
tions is largely dependent on previous 
movements. We "do things without 
thinking" because the thinking has been 
done long before. 

Besides, finding that she can take care 
of herself will beget within the small 
brain a courage which will be more and 
more impossible to the dependent child, 
whose safety has always come from 
without. 

Another result is that the over- 
cared-for child will become self-con- 
scious, self-centered and vain, while the 
let-alone baby's mind, not directed to 
self, will be engrossed with its surround- 
ings. Naturally, the one, whose every 
word is listened for and every action 



62 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



noted, must feel a growing sense of his 
importance. He is the centre of all the 
world he knows, and the limitations of 
his world will not dawn upon him until 
that sense of importance is indellibly 
stamped upon his character. That's 
where the pity of it comes in. A child 
must get his ideas of values from the 
grown people about him, and a false 
estimate of himself means a life-long 
trouble. When a grown person makes 
him the object of devotion, all the selfish 
instincts of his nature respond. 

Not necessarily but most naturally 
many traits will follow from these fund- 
amental characteristics. Inherited ten- 
dencies will come into both lives and 
these will minimize or maximize the 
characteristics; or circumstances may 
alter in both homes that will affect mat- 
ters; but unless these make themselves 
felt, there will be a daily widening in 
the differences between my two little 
neighbors. 

Of course, either extreme is to be de- 
plored, as extremes always are. A child 
needs a certain amount of care — indeed, 
requires it, but the traits developed by 
too little are preferable to those of the 
over-tended child. That is why the 
children of the poor ordinarily become 
such sturdy specimens, while rich little 
weaklings succumb to every disease. 

A toddler needs watching, but he may 
be most carefully watched without his 
knowing it; and in that case he has the 
double advantage of a growing self- 
reliance and the guarding eye and hand 
of a wiser intelligence than his own. 
The loving, deeply anxious mother 
wants to give her child every possible 
advantage in life, but a bit of far- 
sightedness will make her realize that 
o^'^r-care will render the pliant little 
nature both weak and vine-like. Let 
nature, untrammeled, and instinct, un- 
perverted, play their part in each life, 
which, unfolding from within, will be- 
come a distinct individual in the world 
of men. l. i^. 



Scientist and Cook . 

THE recent fame of Captain Roald 
Amundsen makes, a reference to 
life on board the Pram, on a previous 
expedition, of renewed interest. 

While men are chefs on larger salaries 
than college presidents, and men of sci- 
ence stew up foods, in glass tubes for 
laboratory tests, to determine their prop- 
erties, it is seldom that men do much 
actual cooking in connection with scien- 
tific work. However, one exception is 
Adolf Hendrik Lindstrom, who volun- 
tarily filled the posts of botanist and 
zoologist on the Fram, as well as being 
the cook for the ship's crew. He had 
had Arctic experience before, and so he 
was able to set forth "exquisitely pre- 
pared food, served at the minute desig- 
nated. His kitchen work ended, he was 
pretty sure to be seen abroad on arctic 
summer evenings with botanical collect- 
ing box, shot-gun, and butter-fly net, 
and woe to the flower, bird or insect 
which came his way," says Capt. 
Amundsen. 

Even on humble boats and yachting 
parties there is a demand for men cooks. 
It is surprising that many boys, not over- 
fitted for competing in the business 
world, should not take up a work that 
enables them to be housed and fed and 
well treated in camp or home, and where 
extra time can be advantageously used 
for reading and study, or the cultivation 
of a garden : for all cooks need not go 
to the Poles. 

Men become janitors now-a-days, but 
not cooks and house assistants, although, 
if good American boys woiiid take up 
this line of work, the homes that are 
now languishing for lack of trustworthy 
helpers might be lifted out of their 
dilemmas. Some one strong enough to 
move furniture on sweeping days, go to 
market in stormy weather, stoke the 
furnace and do the heavier part of the 
range work and washing of dishes 
would be invaluable. j. d. c. 






iP^ 



S km 



ir^i>:<i 



■•^'ff:^ 



'vVfr, •V^?C^5:\^:iv;^■■ 




'■^-V.'-^ 





&iK)er3 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1 .00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1851. — "Give the essential points in 
Canning Vegetables in glass jars." 

Canning Vegetables 

Only young peas, lima beans, string 
beans and corn can be. canned success- 
fully. The length of time for cooking 
will vary a little from year to year, and 
depends, also, on the manner in which 
the cooking is carried out. In certain 
household canners the cooking is done 
under a heavy pressure of steam ; this 
shortens the time of cooking. In a 
steam cooker the pressure of steam is 
less than in most canners, but is higher 
than when the cooking is conducted in a 
wash boiler fitted up with a rack on 
which the jars are set. In canning corn 
with any one of these appliances, the 
time may be materially shortened, if 
only the pulp be taken, the hull being 
more difficult to sterilize. To prepare, 
score the kernels lengthwise of the ear, 
then with the back of the knife press 
out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the 
cob. As the pulp expands greatly in 
cooking the jars must be filled only two- 
thirds full. When cooked about an 
hour, stir down the corn ; use one can to 
fill two others, adjust rubbers, and cov- 
ers loosely, and let cook another hour, 
then see that all are in good condition. 
The covers of any cans that do not need 
further attention may now be tightened. 
If covers are displaced or jars need at- 
tention, cook fifteen minutes after ad- 
justment, then seal. 



Beets may be cooked in an open kettle 
as for the table. When tender rub off 
the skins (in a sauce-pan of cold water) 
and set into jars; fill to overflow with 
boiling water, adjust rubbers and covers 
and let cook fifteen minutes to half an 
hour, then tighten covers. When string 
beans are cooked enough for the table, 
they are practically done; adjust rub- 
bers and covers and let cook fifteen min- 
utes longer. String beans will need 
three or four hours' cooking, if a wash 
boiler or similar utensil be used. 



Query 1852.— "Recipes for serving Noodles 
in other ways than in soup." 

Recipes for Noodles 

Cook in boiling water in the same 
manner as macaroni, then serve with 
cream or tomato sauce. Cheese may be 
added if desired. A cup of sauce is 
enough for a generous cup of- cooked 
noodles. Cooked noodles may also be 
sprinkled with butter, melted and 
browned, and then with soft bread 
crumbs, browned in butter. 

Noodle Custard Pudding 

Put one cup of cooked noodles in a 
baking dish ; beat two eggs, add half a 
teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of pepper and two cups of milk 
and pour over the noodles ; surround 
the dish with boiling water and let bake 
until firm in the center. The water 
should not boil during the cooking. 



68 



64 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



From two tablespoonfuls to one-fourth 
a pound of cheese, grated or cut in thin 
slices, may be added and mixed through 
the noodles. 



Query 1853. — "Recipes for Rhubarb, served 
fresh and preserved." 

Rhubarb with Sultana Raisins 

Pick the stems from half a cup of 
Sultana raisins ; cover with boiling water 
and let cook until the raisins are tender 
and the water is nearly evaporated; add 
one pound of rhubarb cut in half-inch 
lengths, and about a cup of sugar ; shake 
the dish over the fire or in the oven, oc- 
casionally, until the rhubarb is just ten- 
der. If the stalks are tender, the peeling 
need not be removed. More sugar may 
be wished by some. 

Scalloped Rhubarb with Meringue 

This dish may be made with soft bread 
crumbs or with sponge cake crumbs. 
The rhubarb should be cut in half-inch 
pieces. Bread crumbs should be stirred 
with melted butter, half a cup to a pint 
of crumbs. Put the crumbs and rhubarb 
into a buttered baking dish in alternate 
layers, sprinkle the rhubarb with sugar, 
grated orange or lemon rind and a few 
grains of salt. For half a pound of 
rhubarb use about three-fourths a cup 
of sugar, less if sponge cake crumbs be 
used. Let bake about half an hour. Let 
cool slightly; then beat the whites of 
two eggs dry, gradually beating in four 
level tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, 
and spread over the pudding. Let cook 
in a very moderate oven about twelve 
minutes, then increase the heat slightly 
to color the meringue delicately. Serve 
hot or cold. 

Rhubarb and Fig Preserves 



serving kettle in layers and let stand 
overnight. Cook slowly about one hour. 
The candied orange peel may be omitted. 

Rhubarb Marmalade 

Boil one quart of bright red rhubarb, 
cut in bits, the grated rind and pulp 
(without seeds) of six oranges and three 
cups of sugar until well reduced. 



6 pounds of rhubarb, 
cut in short lengths 

1 pound of figs, cut 
in pieces 

5 pounds of sugar 



3 lemons, juice and 

grated rind 
1 pound of candied 
orange peel 



Query 1854.— "Recipe for a Boiled^ Salad 
Dressing that can be kept indefinitely." 

Regarding Salad Dressings 

No salad dressing can be made that 
will ''keep indefinitely," unless preserva- 
tives be used. Stored in a cool place 
any cooked dressing will keep several 
days in winter. Recipes may be found 
in any cook book. The following recipe 
has been given several times in these 
pages. Note that the cream is not added 
until the time of serving. An equal 
quantity of butter or oil may replace the 
cream, then such portion of dressing as 
is left over may be kept two or three 
days. 

Salad Dressing Without Oil 



egg-yolks 

a teaspoonful 

salt 

a teaspoonful 

sugar 

a teaspoonful 

mustard 

a teaspoonful 

paprika 



of 
of 
of 
of 



2 tablespoonfuls of 
lemon juice or vin- 
egar 

1 white of egg, beat- 
en dry 

2 tablespoonfuls of 
butter 

h a cup of double 
cream 



Put the fruit and sugar into the pre- 



Beat the yolks very light; add the 
seasonings and acid and stir, while cook- 
ing over hot water, until the mixture 
thickens ; turn the white into the mixture 
and return the dish to the hot water, 
while the two are folded together ; con- 
tinue the cooking until the whole is very 
hot, then beat in the butter, a little at a 
time, and set aside to chill. When ready 
to serve fold in the cream, well beaten 
but not too dry. Remove the dressing 
from the fire before adding the butter. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Chocolates 



"Crest" Chocolates are the latest 
Lowney product. Certainly we have 

provided the finest chocolate coating that can be made. 
By the choice of special natural products from the tropical 
countries where good things grow Lowney's ••Crest" 
Chocolates are made more delicious than chocolates 
ever were before. Every box with the crest and name 
on it is sold at one dollar a pound, and is worth it and 
more. No girl can resist their lure. They are packed 
with the greatest care for appetizing appearance. They 
are a perfect gift. They are what the most exacting con- 
noisseurs have been searching for. 

Get them of your dealer if he has them. If not send us amount and 
we will forward promptly, prepaid, with card enclosed if desired : 

Lowney's "Crest" Chocolates, assorted, ^2 lb., 1 lb., 2 lbs., 3 lbs. 
or 5 lbs. at $1 a pound. 

Lowney's "Crest" Caramels, K lb. or 1 lb. at $1 a pound. 

Lowney's "Crest" Nugatines, K lb. at 50c. for the half-pound. 

Also, Lowney's Fancy-Full, no cream centers, 1 lb., 2 lbs., 3 lbs. 
or 5 lbs. at 80c. a pound. 

Lowney's Vesta Creams, all soft centers, 1 lb. at 80c. 

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO., BOSTON 



jj 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substimtes 
65 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Query 1855.— "Recipe for Crab Ravigote." 

Crab Ravigote 

• ^ Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter; 
in this cook three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of cayenne; add one cup 
and a half of chicken or veal broth and 
stir until boiHng; meanwhile let two 
shallots, chopped fine, and two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, stand on the back 
of the range until the vinegar is reduced 
one half, then add to the sauce with a 
tablespoonful and a half, each, of fine- 
chopped olives, parsley, chervil and tar- 
ragon. Add also enough spinach juice 
to tint a delicate green. Carefully fold 
in a generous pint of crab meat, cover 
and let become hot over boiHng water. 



hours and a half, basting with hot fat 
each fifteen minutes. 



Query 1856.— "Recipe for Preserved Ginger 
and state where the ginger may be bought." 

Preserved Ginger 

Use the recipe given on page 496 of 
the May 1912 number of this magazine. 
Let the tender ginger simmer in the 
syrup until it is thoroughly filled with 
syrup, then store as canned fruit. Green 
ginger roots or stems (the stems are 
much the best) may be bought at a large 
drug store or of a grocer who keeps a 
supply of fancy groceries. 



Query 1857— "Recipe for Veal Loaf." 

Veal Loaf 



i 



sauce 

teaspoonful pepper 
a teaspoonful 
sweet herbs if de- 
sired 

a cup of dried 
mushrooms 



3J lbs raw veal 
i a lb fat salt pork 

a lb lean ham 

crackers 

tbsp. salt 

eggs, well beaten 

table spoonfuls 

cream, milk or 

Pass the veal, pork, ham and mush- 
rooms, soaked in cold water, through a 
food chopper; add the crackers, rolled 
smooth and the other ingredients and 
mix into a compact loaf. Roll in cracker 
crumbs and dispose in a baking pan of 
suitable size. Lay slices of salt pork or 
bacon over the top. Let cook about two 



Query 1858 — "Explicit directions for Can- 
ning Peas." 

Canned Peas 

Put the shelled peas into cans, filling 
the cans to the top. Set the cans on a 
rack, covered with a cloth, over cold or 
lukewarm water, and let cook until the 
water has boiled half an hour. Fill the 
jars with boiling water to which a tea- 
spoonful of salt to a quart of water has 
been added; adjust the rubbers and 
covers, but do not fasten them. Cover 
and let cook one hour. Then tighten the 
covers and remove from the kettle; or 
let cool in the kettle, uncovered. By ex- 
perimenting it is probable that the time 
of cooking may be cut down somewhat. 
Peas do not require as long cooking as 
string beans. Very small string beans, 
cut in halves, lengthwise, may be canned 
in about one hour and a half, especially 
if a patent canner be used. Larger beans, 
cut crosswise, often need from three to 
four hours' cooking. 



Query 1859. — "In the recipe for Gluten 
Bread given in the February number of this 
magazine, I used gluten flour for the first 
mixing and bread flour afterwards. The 
bread is delicious and light, but only slightly 
different from ordinary bread. Was the 
bread made correctly?" 

Regarding Recipe for Gluten 
Bread 

Gluten bread is usually made for peo- 
ple who for some special reason can not 
eat ordinary bread on account of the 
starch it contains. Thus no flour other 
than gluten flour is used in the bread. 
Such bread is not considered as pala- 
table as that made of the ordinary flour, 
but is better than no bread. 



Query i860.— "Recipe for Planked Chicken." 

Planked Chicken 

(To serve two or four people) 
Select a chicken of about two pounds 



66 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




And now for a dash of 
Holbrook's" 

Always have a bottle of this deHcious 
Sauce on the table ready for use — it's 
wonderful how appetising it makes a 
meal. 



England has long been famous for the manufacture of Sauces, and in 
order to ensure the real English flavor every bottle of Holbrook's 
Sauce is made in their original factory and imported under seal. 



XT 11 Worcestcilyhire C^ 

nolbrooKts o 



aucc 



Imported Absolutely ! 



If 



mill SAKlPf IHEf IRISHABIE IHINES 



Built for SERVICE — not display '^ 



'^^^i^y The EDDY is lined with zinc — because in 65 years of refrigerator 
^/ building we have found it the omy sanitary lining. With soldered ]o\nts, it 
is non-absorbent and easily kept clean. 
Glass or porcelain linings are showier — 
-until they crack and chip. Their cemented \omts 
absorb moisture, grease, odors, 
appear — catch-alls for dirt. In 




Crevices 



Eddy Refrigerators 

every vital point — pure dry coldy ice economy, 
sanitation, drainage, convenience of arrange 
ment, durability — has been brought to scien 
tific perfection. 



D. 



^liilliUnilllll!! 



Sixty sizes. Freight prepaid if your dealer 
cannot supply you. '^end/or our catalogue 
—it tells the refrigerator truths. 

EDDY & SONS COMPANY 
333 Adams Street, Boston 



liiimiiii 



lllil!|!!!ffllS 



iiiiiiiiiniiifi 



;iiiii)ii!iiiiiii! 




Buy advertised Goods 



- do not accept substitutes 
67 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



in weight ; cut off the neck on a Hne with 
the top of the collar bones. Cut the 
chicken down the entire length of the 
backbone, clean and wash inside and out ; 
flatten the breast bone with a cleaver or 
wooden mallet; unhang the wings and 
second joints. Let broil, skin side down, 
over a bed of coals or under the gas 
flame, about six minutes, then turn and 
cook about three minutes on the skin 
side. Baste liberally with butter and let 
cook in the oven (or farther from the 
gas flame) about half an hour. Baste 
occasionally with melted butter. 

Have a plank made hot in the oven ; 
set the chicken on the plank, skin side 
down ; fill the space between the chicken 
and the edge of the plank with hot, 
boiled rice; about the chicken dispose 
four flowerets of hot, cooked cauliflower, 
four corn fritters, four hot, stuffed 
tomatoes and four slices of bacon, rolled, 
pinned with a wooden toothpick and 
fried in deep fat. Serve cream or Hol- 
landaise sauce in a bowl. Often both 
sauces are prepared. Mashed potato 
may replace the rice. If potato be used, 
shorten the time of cooking the chicken 
about five minutes. When the chicken 
and potato are in place on the plank, 
brush over the potato with the beaten 
yolk of an egg, diluted with two table- 
spoonsful of milk, and set the plank into 
the oven to brown the edges of the 
mashed potato. Then set the garnishes 
in place and serve at once. Lacking a 
plank holder, set the plank on a large 
platter. 

Stuffed Tomatoes 

Select small, round, smooth tomatoes. 
Cut a slice from the stem end of each 
tomato and scoop out the pulp and seeds, 
to leave hollow cases. Chop fine a slice 
of onion and one-fourth a green or red 
pepper pod ; cook these in one or two 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter until 
slightly yellowed; add half, a cup of 
chopped (cooked) ham and a scant cup 
of soft bread crumbs, three tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter and one-fourth a 



teaspoonful of salt. Use the preparation 
to fill the tomatoes. Let cook in the oven 
about twenty minutes, basting two or 
three times with melted butter. 

Green Corn Fritters 



About 1 cup of pastry 

flour 
H teaspoonfuls of 

baking powder 
2 whites of eggs, 

beaten drv 



1 cup of corn pulp 

2 volks of egg, beaten 

light 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a teaspoonful of 

black pepper I 

Score the kernels, with a sharp knife, 
lengthwise of the cob, then press out the 
pulp. Add the other ingredients, the 
whites of egg last. Take up the mixture 
by tablespoonfuls and with a teaspoon 
scrape it into hot fat; let cook until 
brown on both sides, turning several 
times during the cooking. Drain on soft 
paper. This recipe makes eight large 
fritters. Kornlet may replace the green 
corn. 



Query 1S60. — "Recipe for Cooking Flank 
Steak." 

Flank Steak, Stuffed and en 
Casserole 

A flank steak weighs about two pounds 
and a half. Have the dealer peel off the 
fat and outer tissues, and cut the surface 
of the meat on both sides, diagonally, in 
both directions. Lay the steak on a 
board, spread upon it a thin layer of 
bread dressing, roll very compactly and 
sew the side and ends to enclose the 
dressing securely. Cut one or two slices 
of fat salt pork or bacon in bits and let 
cook until the fat is drawn out; dredge 
the roll of meat with flour and rub it in 
thoroughly, then brown it in the fat, 
turning it as it browns, until the whole 
surface is well colored. Set the meat in 
a casserole, put in an onion and half a 
carrot, cut in slices, and a cup of tomato 
puree. Rinse the frying pan with half a 
cup of boiling water and add this liquid, 
cover and let cook about three hours in 
a very moderate oven. The puree and 
other liquid may be omitted and the meat 
be basted each fifteen minutes with hot 



63 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



69 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



fat. Return the cover to the dish after 
each basting. 

Dressing for Flank Steak 

To a generous cup of fine soft bread 
crumbs add one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of sweet 
basil, or other seasoning, half a chili 
pepper, a thin slice of onion and three 
parsley branches, chopped very fine, and 
one-third a cup of melted butter or vege- 
table oil. Mix all together thoroughly. 

Flank Steak Broiled 

A flank steak, v^ith surface cut as in- 
dicated in the first recipe, may be broiled 
and seasoned as any steak. Thus cooked 
it is usually tender. 



Concerning Ices 

The storage of ice for summer use has 
been practised from the earliest times. 
The Greeks, for instance, constructed ice- 
houses hundreds of years before the 
Christian era, and we know that Alex- 
bander the Great, when at Pera, in India, 
had large pits dug and filled in with 
snow, which was covered over with lay- 
ers of leaves. The ice or frozen snow 
w^as used as occasion required both as 
an iced drink itself and also to cool 
other drinks. The Romans also enjoyed 
the luxury of iced drinks, but they gen- 
erally iced them by putting ice or snow 
into the liquid. At a later period the 
Turks, improving upon Alexander's 
method, had well constructed vaulted 
cellars in which they stored large blocks 
of ice, filling up the interstices with 
snow, so that the whole formed a solid 
block or small iceberg. France followed 
this plan for ages, but not until long 
after the great Blon had in vain exhorted 
King Henri II. 's government to adopt it, 
pointing out that Italy, Spain, Portugal 
and other countries, with a warmer cli- 
mate than France, had the benefit of ice 
in summer. Catherine de Medici knew 
only soHd water ice and iced drinks. It 



was not until the end of the sixteenth 
century that the French people learned 
how to freeze water artificially. Shaped 
and moulded water ices were eaten in 
France in 1660, and were soon after- 
wards introduced into England. Cream 
ices were the luxury of a later day, and 
when first introduced were very primi- 
tive compared with the daintily flavored, 
colored and shaped ices of the present 
time, the latest development in the art of 
ice-making being to make them resemble 
clusters of fruit, etc. — Food & Cookery. 



Seasonable Summer Dishes 

Instead of the cold and gloomy weather 
which we have now been experiencing, 
we have at last real summer weather, so 
that those who maintain the hot weather 
innovations will welcome dinner menus 
in which cold dish courses are quite the 
fashion. 

The chilled course between two hot 
dishes is always a favorite, whilst the 
American combination of hot and cold 
in one plat is now a firmly rooted Eng- 
lish custom. A "souffle en surprise" 
makes an interesting summer sweet for 
a smart dinner table, and incidentally 
provides an element of excitement 
amongst expectant guests. The souffle — 
either vanilla, chocolate, almond, or 
pistachio — is served hot in a ramaquin 
case, and the inside is composed of a 
solid centre of ice cream. Other favor- 
ites are ice cream served in miniature 
French pottery cases, with hot chocolate 
sauce handed separately ; glace pralinee, 
eaten with sauce Madere; and bombe au 
cafe, accompanied by crushed burnt al- 
monds made into a sauce and served 
blazing hot. 

Of meat dishes, frozen curries are 
amongst the latest inventions, served in 
small French cases, whilst liqueur ices 
in long glasses make a frequent appear- 
ance nowadays between the cold entree 
and the roast. — Food & Cookery. 



70 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



ciT/^e Great Discovery in 

ICE CREAM MAKING 




Not a new kind of ice cream, 
but a new method that makes 
ice cream of a new and wonder- 
ful deliciousness. 
This has been accomplished by the 
amazing aerating-spoon dasher, which 

whips air into every particle of the freezing cream — 
just as good cooks whip air into their whites of eggs, 
creams and salad-dressings to make them finer and 
lighter. The 

ALASKA 



With the Aerating Dasher 

has solved the hitherto impossible problem of doing this in a rapidly freezing mixture. 

Thousands of women users in the past year have tried to describe the result — the 
marvelously delicate flavor, the finer texture, the exquisite blending — but you can't 
even imagine what it is like until you have tasted Alaska-made ice cream. 

The Alaska freezes in THREE MINUTES. It freezes absolutely evenly. It has covered gears — no danger 
of pinching the fingers. It is the simplest, the strongest freezer made. 

If your dealer doesn't keep the Alaska, don't be content with the old kind of 
freezer. Write us and let us give you the name of an Alaska dealer in your town. 



SEND FOR THIS BOOKLET— you will treasure it as long as you live 
We call it "Good News for Ice Cream Lovers." 

It is full of famous recipes from all over tne world for ice creams, ices 
and rare and novel frozen desserts. It is sent free, postpaid. 



THE ALASKA FREEZER COMPANY, 655 Lincoln Ave., Winchendon, Mass 







Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



New Books 



Standard Paper Bag Cookery. By Emma 
Paddock Telford. Special oil cloth 
binding. Price, net, Fifty Cents. 
New York : Cupples & Leon Co. 

No one is advised to try dishes — as 
for instance soups, omelettes, macaroni 
and kin, — and many desserts that may 
better be done by other methods. 

Neither has the author called for 
strange and divers seasonings and mate- 
rials that are only to be found in the 
kitchens of the mighty and their attend- 
ant chefs. 

For the very large family or boarding 
house, pots and pans need still be called 
upon; but for the small family, for the 
woman who does her own work and 
wishes to minimize labor, or for the 
epicurean but frugal housewife who 
looks personally after the details of her 
own little establishment, this paper-bag 
cookery is commended. If then it will 
be seen that paper-bag cookery like the 
casserole and chafing-dish has limita- 
tions as well as commendable features. 
It is the renewal of an old fad in cook- 
ery, something of which has been known 
to cooks for generations. In this little 
volume one can learn all that is needful 
to know about the subject. Only prac- 
tice will teach what is to be gained or 
lost in the use of the paper-bag in pre- 
pared dishes. , 

Cooking in Stoneware and Paper Bags. 
By C. Herman Lenn. Price 8d. 
London : The Food & Cookery Pub- 
lishing Co. 

The author speaks of this method of 
cooking as follows: 

This branch of cookery is freqnuently 
called casserole cookery, but "cooking in 
stone or earthenware" would be more 
correct. Although very ancient, this 
class of cookery is becoming exceedingly 
popular at the present time. Kitchen 



pottery fills an important mission in the 
present day cuisine, for cooking per- 
formed in an earthenware fireproof pot 
has many advantages over that per- 
formed in a metal pot. 

The homeliest form, or shall I call it 
the most wholesome form, of cooking 
very many articles of food is that done 
in the earthen jar, pot or baking dish. 
The cause of this is not far to seek. Be- 
sides being unsurpassable for many pur- 
poses, earthenware or stoneware casser- 
oles are light and clean to use, they im- 
part no disagreeable flavor to the most 
delicate of viands, they are handy to use, 
the actual cooking is effected slowly and 
more evenly, consequently less fuel is 
used in cooking. They are not so liable 
to burn food in cooking. They do not 
tarnish, rust, or stain, and do not, there- 
fore, affect the contents cooked in them. 
Besides being handy and ever ready for 
use, earthenware fireproof casseroles, 
baking or braising pans and dishes are 
inexpensive to buy, and if proper care is 
bestowed they may last as long as metal 
pans. 

Food cooked in earthenware or stone- 
ware casseroles is usually served up in 
the pots or pans in which it is cooked ; 
this is convenient as well as economical. 




Ordinary dusting scatters but does not 
remove dust and germs. Use cheese-cloth 
dampened with tepid water to which a little 
Piatt's Chlorides, the odorless disinfectant, 
has been added. Wring out till dry so that 
it will not streak the wood work, etc. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

72 



ADVERTISEMEXTS 




Thirst Content 

Kvcry day — many times a day, it just seems as if 
nothing would satisfy. 

Drink 





Free 



There's nothing Hke it 

It's as wholesome as pure water, and quenches 
the thirst as nothing else will. 

Delicious — Refreshing 
Wholesome 



Our new 
booklet, telling 
of Coca-Cola vindi- 
cation at Chattanooga, 
for the asking. 



Demand the Genuine — Refuse Substitutes 

THE COCA-COLA CO. 

ATLANTA, GA. 



Whenever 
you see an f 
Arrow think 
of Coca-Cola. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
73 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



All th:it is needed is to place the cooking 
pot or pan on a dish and send it to the 
dining-room, thus ensuring it being 
served hot — which is another point in 
favor of casserole cookery. This ware 
is also ornamental, and it is used in the 
very best establishments, where it is 
decidedly fashionable as a means of 
cooking and serving food. 

This style of cooking is known as "en 
casserole," which in reality is the French 
name for stew-pan, and means that the 
dish is served in the vessel in which it 
has been cooked. Fish, meat, poultry 
and game can be cooked in this way; 
soups, especially those of the pot-au-feu 
kind, are cooked and served in marmites, 
which are another type of fireproof 
cooking pots. Fruit, which needs to be 
carefully stewed, is excellent if cooked 
in this ware. For braising and stewing 
this kind of cookery has really no equal, 
and there are many other dishes cooked 
'*en casserole" which have proved to be 
so superior in taste and flavor that one 



FOR LIVELY BOYS AND GIRLS 




RUBBER BUTTON 

HOSE SUPPORTER 

Has all the good features— secur- 
ity, neatness, "handiness, 
and wear value. Buy it by 
name and be sure. 

Children's sample pair 16c. postpaid (give age) 

GEORGE FROST CO.. Makers. Boston 

(Also makers of famous Boston Garter for Men.) 




had better abandon them altogether than 
attempt to serve them without the aid of 
this useful cooking utensil. 

Any one who has adopted the use of 
these casseroles, marmites, braising or 
baking dishes will readily admit that the 
merits claimed for them are in no way 
exaggerated, for by their use the cook 
finds in them a most valuable assistant 
to ensure genuine, wholesome cookery. 
It is, however, well to remember that 
fierce heat is to be avoided when cooking 
in an earthenware pan. 

Any dish which requires slow, gentle 
cooking (simmering, stewing or brais- 
ing) can be prepared in this way ; thus, 
a ragout, braise; as well as rechauffes 
such as Miriton, mince and hash are de- 
cidedly better in flavor when re-cooked 
in earthenware than in metal stew-pans. 

Directions and recipes for cooking and 
serving a great variety of wholesome and 
palatable dishes are given, also cuts of 
the different styles of utensils in general 
use are represented. 



The Summer School of Cookery 

THE ultimate test of any course of 
training is the resulting ability to 
do or execute. If one sets out to cook, 
or to teach cooking, even after a college 
training, and does not know how to at- 
tain practical results, either the training 
or the individual will be criticised, though 
neither may be at fault. We learn to do 
by doing, and she who is to teach cook- 
ery cannot have had too much experience 
in the actual practice of cooking. 

Until one has prepared a dish with her 
own hands, many times, perhaps, and 
noted the effect of this or that procedure, 
she cannot be certain of the results or 
have the courage to tell others how to 
proceed. We hear of young women, 
here and there, who have made a pro- 
nounced success in catering, in teaching 
cookery, or in running tea-rooms, but in 
every case it appears that, though these 
women may be college graduates, they 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"The Perfection of Olive Oil." 



RAE'S 

LUCCA 



OIL 



In Tuscany, which is justly called the '' Garden of 
Italy," the Very Finest Olive Oil for eating purposes is 
made, and is generally known and described in commerce 
as Lucca Oil; it cannot be equalled much less surpassed, 
by anything produced in the rest of Italy or France.'' 

S. Rae & Co., of Leghorn, Guarantee their Finest 
Sublime Lucca Oil to be absolutely Pure Olive Oil of 
Superlative Quality: — the produce of Tuscan Olive 
Yards only. 



SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS 
SIZES BY FIRST - CLASS GROCERS 



An Illustrated Pamphlet 

"The Olive in Tuscany" 

will be mailed you on request 






JAMES A. HAYES & CO, 

Agents and Importers 

9=11 Commercial St., Boston 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
75 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



I 



The flavor of many fruit 
extracts such as Orange, Rose 
or Almond may be much im- 
proved by adding a small quan- 
tity of Vanilla. 

Always use 

Burnett's 
Extracts 

Not only are they made from the 
choicest and purest ingredients, 
but they are also twice the 
strength of the standard set by 
the United States Department 
of Agriculture. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



BEE 




BRAND 




THe TKree M invite" TEA 



Blended and packed 
for us in Colombo. 
Ceylon, in hermeti- 
cally sealed, hand- 
somely lithographed 
cans. Has a world- 
wide sale — used by 
best Enelish Clubs — 
and on every English 
Man-of-War. 

If you give BEE 
BRAND TEA a fair 
trial, you'll have no 

other. As an inducement, we make you the following 

proposition: ^ 

Send us your grocer's name and address and 
$1.00 (check or money order) and we will send 
you 

I POUND TIN BEE BRAND TEA 

Use the Tea one week— if it is not better than any you 
have eyerused, return what is left, and we will refund 
your dollar. 

HcCORMICK ^ CO., Bahimore, Md. 

Manufacturers, Importers and Packers 

Bee Brand Extracts. Spices, Teas 
Gelatine, etc. 



are first of all women who have worked 
with their own hands, and so verified the 
technical training which they may have 
received. By dear-bought and continued 
experience, they have learned to differ- 
entiate between food properly selected 
and prepared and that which has received 
but indifferent treatment. 

Theoretical training is to be called on 
at every point to simplify work, and to 
furnish reasons for this or that proced- 
ure, but, in truth, theoretical training is 
simply the foundation upon which the 
real work of feeding people, or teaching 
others how to feed people, is to be estab- 
lished. 

Mrs. Hill's summer classes are fitted 
to meet the wants of such as these. Her 
pupils are encouraged to cook anything 
they may wish, and, at the same time, 
while they are actually engaged, they are 
shown all the little *'ins and outs" that go 
to make cooking not a work, but a pas- 
time. 

Do you wish to make a success of 
your work in cookery, whatever branch 
it may be? Do you wish to make bread, 
rolls, cake and pastry; to be able to un- 
mold aspic, mousse, ices, or anything 
that is shaped in molds, without fear or 
trembling; to set a table properly, or 
teach how to serve a meal properly? 
Plan to spend a month of your vacation 
at South Chatham, New Hampshire. 
One of the features of the Summer Class 
is the helpful interest the pupils take in 
each others' work and welfare. They 
make delightful acquaintance and friend- 
ship. Being free from other social 
distractions they inspire each other in 
the daily lesson and in the outdoor 
recreation. 



What Our Grandfathers Ate 

The meats of our grandparents were 
roasted in front of open fires instead 
of being baked in ovens as to-day, 
while the more solid kinds of vegeta- 
bles boiled in kettles swung from 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
76 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




393 
SUGAR 



Look For The 



On Every Piece 

You have no idea what 
beautiful things — spark- 
ling', clear as crystal and 
of attractive shapes — can 
be had for a very small 
outlay. Quality and 
durability considered. 



HEI5EY5 




393 

TUMBLER 



393 
EMON DISH 



•■ f -I 






11 



34 
CANDELABRUM 



GLA55WARE 



is not only the lowest 
priced tableware made, 
but is guaranteed, when 
used under like conditions, 
to last twice as long as 
ordinary K glassware. 
Heisey' s Oy Glassware 
is for sale ^ only by the 
best crockery and depart- 
ment stores. Write us for 
our book ''Table Glass 
and How to Use It." 

A. H. Heisey & Co. 



393 

CHAMPAGNE 
GLASS 



Department 56 



Newark, Ohio 




Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 

77 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




THERE 
is every 
reason for home 
ices, now that 
every step in ice- 
cream making has 
been made simple 
and easy by the 

Triple Motion 

White Mountain 

Ice Cre&m Freezer 

The freezer that reduces the freezing time to a 
minimum — that gives the most velvety texture to 
ices. The can revolves, while two dashers turn 
in opposite directions. Increases the bulk of the 
mixture, makes it lighter, smoother, more delicious. 

Make your ices at home and you're sure. Make 
them with the White Mountain and it's a pleasure. 

Let us send you our splendid recipe 
book, ' 'Frozen Dainties. ' ' It will be 
a revelation to you of 
what you can do with 
this freezer at home. 
Address : 

THE WHITE 
MOUNTAIN 
FREEZER CO. 

Dept. AT 

Nashua 
Diamond trade mark J^^ g^ 
on the Wrapper 




cranes. Cabbages were brought to the 
table in their original shape. 

The usual Saturday dinner was 
boiled salt codfish, in order that what 
was left over might be used the next 
morning. For dinner on Sunday, 
baked beans, *'rye 'n injun" bread, and 
baked Indian pudding were customary. 

The favorite supper dish consisted 
of flap-jacks. These were griddle- 
cakes cooked in a huge pan, each one 
being as large as the pan. They were 
liberally buttered as fast as taken 
from the fire, and sprinkled with 
brown sugar. When a dozen or so 
had been piled up, they were served in 
wedges. Doughnuts, — nutcakes they 
were then called, — sugared cookies, 
with caraway seeds in them, mince 
pies, and cup custards were considered 
the proper adjuncts for each meal. — 
Morning Star. 



Molasses Making on Southern 
Farms 

TIME was, and not so very long ago. 
too, when the plantation almost 
entirely monopolized the cultivation of 
the South, and the small farms and 
farmsteads in a county could be num- 
bered on the fingers of one hand. Par- 
ticularly was this true of the so-called 
cotton belt, and in the districts where 
rice and tobacco could not be grown 
profitably except in extensive fields. 
That day is past, and the thriving little 
farm, with its small herd of cattle, its 
hundreds of hens, its orchard and truck 
garden, is now as common there as it is 
in the New England and Middle States, 
but with this distinction: Where few 
New England farms are so remote from 
railroads and large cities as to afifect 
their source of supply, numberless 
Southern farms, located in isolated re- 
gions, have been forced to manufacture 
many of their necessities at home. So 
it is of molasses, or "Sorghum," as it 
is most often called. There is scarcely a 
farm, however small, that does not pos- 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

78 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



m ■ I 



pljTE HOUsF! 



TEA 



WHITB HOUSE 

COFFEE ^ND XEA 

"NONE BETTER AT ANY PRICE" 

The White House Brand of Tea and Coffee represents the very best products of the 
Tea and Coffee World. Packed in the all-tin package, the valuable and pleasing 
properties of both these splendid Food products are preserved and protected to a 
remarkable degree. In buying Tea and Coffee in the tin package under the White 
House Brand, you are assured of the best quality always. 

SOLD BY 24,000 DEALERS IN EVERY STATE AND TERRITORY, CANADIAN PROVINCES, MEXICO AND BERMUDA 

The White House Brand Tea and Coffee has the '*tang'* of the Orient. Don't miss it. 
Principal Coffee Roasters DW I NELL-WRIGHT GO. BOSTON-CHICAGO 



BOSTON-CHICAGO 



^^A^j'ZZj^ AYj^P^Oj^ 




Desserts 




MADE 

IN A 

*JIFFY 



10<t VANILLA 10<^ 

PREPARED BY 

THE JUNKET FOLKS 
QicHansen^lakiato^, littk IaHs.NX 



« 'J 



I ^ Have You Tried 
the New Dessert? 

1 HERE'S THE PACKAGE 



ill 



^ ^^; 

t^ r 

'iff , 

li! 
Ill 



Its appeal is twofold — quickly 
made and delicious. Made with 
milk it is a rich, creamy dessert 
good enough to "set before the 
king." 

Nesnah as a food-dessert takes 
special place. Nothing quite so 
good and at the same time so 
nutritious and healthful. 

NINE FLAVORS: 
Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Maple, 
Orange, Pistachio, Raspberry, Vanilla 



It LOOKS Good 
It TASTES Good It IS Good 



CHR. 



\. 



Made by the Junket Folks 

HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
79 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A Can of Mrs. Lincoln's 

Baking 
Powder 

from the Grocer's Shelf will 
make those hot rolls better 
than they ever were before, 



SONG POEMS WANTED 

vnil may be able to write a big seller. Hundreds of 
lUU dollars have been Tiiade in successful songs. Send 
us your WORDS or MELODIES. Acceptance guaranteed 
if available. Washinp-ton only place to secure'copvright. 
H. Kirkus Dugdale, Co.,Deek225, Washington, D. C. 



rhese tradQ^mark 

8PE 
FOOD 




Unlike otbCT 
FARWCIX * RHIRES. 



iry package 

TIC 

TROUBLES 

STRICT Din 

For book 



.YmU.S.A. 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 



H< 



>tvicly Covirses 



Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
m!*kers, teachers and for well-paid positiois. 
"The Profession of Home- Making." 100 page handbook, 
F1JJ5JS. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles/ 48 pages, 10 cents. " Food Values: Practical 
Methods in Dietetics," 52 pp. ill., 10 cents. 

American School of Home Economics, 503 W. f9th St Chicago, III. 



sess its patch of silver-leaved cane, and 
the rude machinery for extracting its 
juices. 

At first sight the growing cane resem- 
bles a cornfied, but its silvery-whit© 
sheen makes it unmistakable, as do also 
its reddish-purple sumack-like tops. 

In the early fall, when the cane is 
ripe, it is cut down, stripped of leaves, 
and the tops are cut off, which, by the 
way, are eaten with a great deal of gusto 
by the farm-yard pigs. Meanwhile the 
press, or mill, has been set up in an open 
space. This consists of two upright 
metal cylinders placed over a hogshead, 
with a horizontal pole fastened to the 
axel; a mule is harnessed to the other 
end, which, by walking around in a cir- 
cle turns the cylinders like a crank. A 
man, usually a "darkie," stands by the 
hogshead and feeds the cane between the 
cylinders. 

The juice, which is of a sickly green 
color, but nevertheless dear to the heart 
of the child who lives far from candy 
shops, is then poured into shallow pans 
about six inches deep and about five or 
six feet long. These pans are placed 
over out-door brick ovens, of which there 
are always a few in every farm-yard, 
made with brick floors and walls, on the 
side of a slope, so that the fuel can be 
fed in from only one end, thus avoiding 
smoking the molasses. The boiling liquid 
must be skimmed even more often than 
jelly, and just as carefully, but when it 
is done, a plate of corn cakes and hot 
molasses is not to be despised even by 
those who swear by Vermont maple 
sugar. 

Like the Vermont *'sugaring-off," the 
"sorghum" making is an occasion for 
general merry-making. Smaller farms 
send their cane to the nearest cane-mill, 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



80 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Make your lemonade different 

and better by adding to each quart 
one glass of 

TAe National Drink 

It is a fitting refreshment 
for a large or smeJl occasion. 




/^^■x 



QFJ^Xyr^ us two NEW yearly Subscriptions at $1.00 each and we will re- 
k-)J_-ii ^ l--/ new your own subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston. Massachusetts 




Mudge Patent Canner 

A Household Necessity 

Quickest, simplest, cleanest and most economical 
method of canning fruits and vegetables. 

JOHN L. GAUMER CO. 

N. E. Cor. 22d and Wood Streets 
PHILADELPHIA. PA. 



-YALE PRESS- 

For making jellieB, Jams, grape juice, wine, water 

ices, frappes; also for lard, meat, jellies, 

stuffing sausages, etc. 

No woman has the strength to press fruits 
with her hands, besides without a press you 
lose fully one half your 
fruit or meat juice and 
nearly all the flavor which 
only great pressure brings 
out. 

The YALE is light, 
strong, clamps instantly to 
any table or shelf. Place 
cotton bag filled with 
materials in cylinder, fix 
beam in position, and with 
a few turns of the wheel 
you put contents under 
more than 2,000 pounds 
pressure. Double cylinder, 
easily cleaned, never wears 
out. A superior, patented 
sanitary and instantly de- 
tachable spout for stuff- 
ing sausage, furnished FREE with each press. 

In three sizes — 2 quart $3.'^0: 4 quart $4.50; 8 quart 
$6.95; Sold on 10 Day's Trial. Money back guarantee. 

Write for FREE Booklet "Aunt Sally's Best Recipes."' Also 
describes press- 

VICTOR M. GRAB & CO. 

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers 
1162 Aslarid BlocK. CHicago. 111. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

81 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Korr7let 



Soup 



Madam : We want you to know- 
about a niost delicious prepara- 
tion of green corn which is very 
fine for soups. 

It is not canned corn. There is 
no "hull" or other coarse matter 

in it. It is made by a special 
process which elimi- 
nates all indisesti- 
ble substances. 



It is simply and solely the rich, creamy 
"MILK" of green corn— the nutritious part 
—the part that gives itflavor and sweetness. 
This splendid article of food is sold under 
the name KORNLET. You can get it all the 
year round, and any time— and all the time- 
winter or summer— j'oy can have most ap- 
petizing and delicious soups that taste ; 
just like real green corn. Get a can 
and try it— the recipe is on the can. 
\Vrite for dainty Kornlet recipe book. / J 

THE HASEROT CANNERIES CO. ^' 
^v Cleveland, Ohio. 



SEND ;;.; 



two NEW yearly Subscriptions al 
.00 each and we will renew your own 
subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



Lessons In CooKin^ 

THROUGH V 



PREPARATION OF MEALS 

Beginners easily become experts, experts get latest 
methods and ideas in our new home study course. 260 
graded lessons, illustrated, 12 Parts, each containing a 
week's menu, suitable for one month in the year, with 
derailed recipes and full directions for preparing and 
serving each meal as a whole. 

Food Economy, Nutritive Value, Balance Diet, 
Menus for All Occasions, Helpful Suiii{estions, 

Special Articles, Etc. 
Till .TitIv *?! liitroductory half tuition, 50c a 
HAl <gu*y sJl month for a year, or in full $5 00 
^^^■^""■^■""^^ cash in advance. Send 50c in stamps 
for first 21 Lessons. Money returned if not satisfactory. 
Sample pages free. 

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS. 
303 W. 69th St., Chicago. ■ 



and the farmers call with their wives 
and daughters to see the fun. The juicy 
slices of fresh cane, cut at the joints, are 
handed around among the grown people 
as well as the children, and not infre- 
quently there is a ''spread." 

Very little sugar is made by the farm- 
ers, as few of them possess any means 
for refining the product. E. R. G. 



The Governments 'wish to persuade 
the peoples that there is no need for pri- 
vate individuals to trouble about freeing 
themselves from wars; the Governments 
themselves, at their conferences, will ar- 
range first to reduce and presently quite 
to abolish armies. But this is untrue. 
Armies can be reduced and abolished 
only in opposition to the will, but never 
by the will, of Governments. Armies 
will only be diminished and abolished 
when people cease to trust Governments, 
and themselves seek salvation from the 
miseries that oppress them, and seek that 
safety, not by the complicated and deli- 
cate combinations of diplomatists, but in 
the simple fulfilment of that law binding 
upon every man, inscribed in all religious 
teachings, and present in every heart, not 
to do to others what you wish them not 
to do to you — above all, not to slay your 
neighbo r s . — Tolstoy . 



"You ought to be contented, and not 
fret for your old home," said the mis- 
tress to her young Swedish maid. "You 
are earning good wages, your work is 
light, every one is kind to you, and you 
have plenty of friends here." "Yas'm," 
said the girl, "but it is not the place 
where I do be that makes me vera home- 
sick : it is the place where I don't be." 




Used by Leading Chefs and 



Eminent Teachei^QfC^Ql^e^. 



^THE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 CLINTON AVE.WEST HOBOKEN. N.J 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

82 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



♦I«c 



30 OL 



O 



Fig Cake ^ 

The Fig Cake is unusual, but when made \1^ 
after the Borden recipe, it gives perfed: 
satisfaction and is good and wholesome 
for the whole family. Don't fail to use 
the incomparable 



BORDEN'S EAGLE BRAND 
CONDENSED MILK 




RECIPE — Chop fine one pound figs. Beat the whites of four eggs 
stiff. Rub one cup butter and two scant cups sugar to a cream, add 
four tablespoonfuls Eagle Brand Condensed Milk diluted with 
three-fourths cup water, three cups flour, and stir until smootl 
add one-half of the egg whites, then one-half of the figs, then th( 
remainder of the whites and one-half teaspoonful baking powder; 
mix gently together. Bake in layers. For the filling, mix one egg, 
beaten light, with three tablespoonfuls pulverized sugar; add the 
remainder of the figs and spread between the layers Frost the top. 



Write for Borden's Recipe Book. 

BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK CO. 

** Leaders of Quality " 
Est. 1857 New York 




lomi 




Standard 

ROTARY 

Central Needle 
Sit Straight 
Sewing Machine 

^ It is the greatest invention that has 
taken place in Sewing Machines with- 
in the last quarter of a century. 
^ It has been adopted by the public 
schools throughout the country, be- 
cause of its health preserving features. 
^ It is two machines in one, for it 
sews both lock and chain stitch. 



F. C. HENDERSON CO., Boston, Mass. 
Factory SellintS Agents 

Write our nearest aqency for booklet and easy terms 



Shepherd, Norwell Co., Boston John Wanamaker, New York 

Siblev, Lindsev & Curr, Rochester John "VVanamaker, Phila. 

Joseph Home Co. , Pittsburg Thr. May Co., Cleveland 

L. S. Aj-res&Co., Indianapolis Dev Bros. Co.. Syracuse 

Stix, Baer & Fuller, St. Louis S. Kann Sons& Co., Washinaton 
J. L. Hudfon Co., Detroit John A. Roberts & Co,, Utica, N.Y. 
Forbes & Wallace, Springfield E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 

Lion Dry Goods Co.. Toledo Erie Drv Goods Co., Erie 

The Shepherd Co , Providence, R. I. A. B. &"W., Salem, Mass. 
Burrows & Sanborn, Lynn Hochschild. Kohn & Co, Baltimore 
Denholm & Mckay Co., Worcester W. M. Whitnev & Co, Albany 
J. N Adam & Co., Buffalo Bozgs & Buhl, Alleghany 

Stewart Dry Goods Co.. Louisville The Rike-Kumler Co., Dayton 
L. Bamberger & Co., Newark Marshall Field & Co., Chicago 




BEAUTIFUL DINING ROOMS 

CLEAN SANITARY KITCHENS 

SPOTLESS WALLS AND 

GENERAL ATTRACTIVENESS RESULTS WHEN 

PLASTER60N WALL BOARD 

Is used in BuildiniJ or Remodelinii 

Plastersron is vermin proof as well as fireand sound retarding. 

Where This wonderful wall board (the only successful substi- 
tute for lath and plaeter) is used, the rooms" are Cooler in sum- 
mer and Warmer in winter. This is proved by actual test. 
The result is smaller coal bills during the Winter monthg and 
cooler rooms in Summer. 

Anyone can put Piastergon on. It may be applied to the etad- 
dins or nailed on over the lath and plaster of old rooms. 

Tne panel designs that may be obtained by using Piastergon 
are manv and beautiful. 

IN A WORD 

Piastergon as an interior finish for homes, ofBces, factorieB. 
summer cottages or public buildings of any kind, has never been 
iqualled for beauty, economy and efficiency. 

Piastergon is manufactured in Tonawanda, New York, by the 
Piastergon Wall Board Company. 

"The Service Department" will furnish yon, free of charge, 
compleie design and estimate for vour building or remodelling. 

Distributed throughout the New England StetM by J. A. A W. 
Bird A Co. , 88 Pearl St. , Boston, Mass. , „ , . 

Write to-day and ask them for sample and fall information, 
or if not in that territory, send direct to manufactureis. 



Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
83 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 







r CfeiiSStiQari (5)3 



GENUINE FRENCH SARDINES 
in PURE OLIVE OIL 

No healthier food obtainable 
Ask for the 

FRENCH SANITARY TIN 

Finest Quality 
Low Priced 

Hygienic, Practical Package 

For sale in Boston by 
Fir«t Class Grocers and Delicatessen Dealers 

MEYER & LANGE, New York 

Sole Agents 



DR. WILEY ON BREAD 
" Measured by actual nutritive power, 
there is no other complete ration which in 
economy can compare with bread." 

EAT BREAD MADE WITH 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Write for Recipe Book— FREE 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



Children's Rusks 



1 Fleischmann's yeast 

cake 

2 cups of milk, scald- 

ed and cooled 
1 tablespoonful of 
sugar 



6 cups of sifted flour 

J a cup of butter 

1 cup of sugar 

1 egg 

i teaspoonful of salt 

1 cup of currants 



Dissolve the yeast and one tablespoon- 
ful sugar in lukewarm milk, and add to 
it three cups of flour, to make an ordi- 
nary sponge. Beat well. Cover and set 
aside in a warm place to rise for about 
an hour. When light, add to it the but- 
ter and sugar creamed, tgg well beaten, 
the currants, which have previously been 
floured, and the remainder of the flour, 
or sufUcient to make a soft dough, lastly 
add salt. Knead lightly, place in greased 
bowl, cover and set aside in warm place, 
free from draft, to rise for about two 
to two and one-half hours. When well- 
risen, turn out on a kneading board and 
mould into rolls. Place in well-greased 
pans, cover and let rise again for about 
one hour, or until double in bulk. Brush 
with tgg diluted with milk. Bake in a 
hot oven for about fifteen or twenty min- 
utes. Upon removing from oven sprinkle 
on powdered sugar. 



Education, the fatherland, liberty, as- 
sociation, the family, property e^nd re- 
ligion, are all undying elements of human 
nature. They can not be destroyed ; but 
every epoch has the right and duty to 
modify them according to the intellect of 
the age, the progress of science and the 
altered conditions of human relations. — 
Ma^sini. 




TANGLEFOOT, The Original Fly Paper 



Has one-third more sticky compound than any 
other ; hence is best and cheapest 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

84 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



I CAN CUT 1-4 OFF YOUR FOOD 




BILLS — MY FREE 



BOOK 123 RECIPES 
TELLS YOU HOW 



Fireless Cooker 

2it Lowest 
Factory Price 



125 tested recipes. Shows just how to make the less 
expensive cuts of meat, less costly fowl — sweet, juicy, 
tender, delicious in a RAPID Fireless Cooker. Saves 
75c. on every dollar for fuel and half your kitchen 
work. 100,000 RAPIDS now in use. 

-The fastest, most improved, 
most saving cooker made. 
Steams, stews, roasts, bakes, boils, fries— cooks everything de- 
liciously — flavors and juices kept in: No heat or odor. High- 
est grade Aluminum Cooking Utensil Outfit FIIF:E. Write 
for Free Recipe Book, special factory prices and Free Trial. 
Wm. Campbell Co. Dept. 173. Detroit. Mich. 



30 Days Free Trial 




Summer School of Cookery 

AND VACATION OUTING COMBINED 

Mrs. Hill's Summer School of 

Cookery at " Topo Pino " 

South Chatham, N- H. 

WILL OPEN 

WEDNESDAY, JULY lOTH 

FOR THE NINTH SEASON 

Anyone desirous of improving in 
the practical part of the science of 
cookery may enroll in this school. 

As the pupils prepare the greater 
part of the food served at the table, 
experience may be gained in cook- 
ing for large or for small numbers. 

Pupils may confine their attention to simple dishes or, if their attainments warrant, 
to elaborate cookery, more exclusively. Tea Room or General Catering may be 
made a specialty, and the dishes selected from the daily lesson may be those best 
adapted to individual needs. 




For circular of terms and other information, apply in person or by letter to 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



372 BOYLSTON STREET 
BOSTON, MASS. 



847 ROGERS BROS 



Spoons, Forks, Knives, €tc., of the highest 
grade carry the above trade mark. "^ 




*'Siher Plate 
that Meard 



Guaranteed b\ the largest makers of silverware. 

MERIDEN BRITANNIA COMPANY, MERIDEN, CONN. 

(International Silver Co., Successor) 
NEW YORK CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO 




Send for 
catalogue " f 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

85 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




HIGHEST QUALITY GIVES SATISFACTION 

YOU ARE SAFE WITH 



The Old 

Reliable 



^mo© 



SILVER 
POLISH 



For your choice Silver Gold, Jewelry, Cut Glass, China, etc., IT RESTORES THE LUSTRE WITHOUT INJURY 
Cando is the ideal Silver Polish, because it represents the highest standard of quality known 
to this age. The conservative and reliable manufacturer and dealer, vi'hose statement you can 
rely upon, recommends and sells to you goods that have stood the test for quality and merit. 
Those concerns do not advocate cleaning preparations containing so-called electric acids which 
work magic upon your silver. Why? For the same reason that you cannot afford to use them 
Thousands of dealers recommend CANDO. It is always reliable. Ask your dealer, and insist that 
you get CANDO, 

PAUL MANUFACTURING CO., 36-40 Fnlton Street. Boston, Mass. 

Get acquainted with our Egyptian Deodorizer and Aerolume. Write for sample 



PREMIUMS FOR SEVEN SUBSCRIPTIONS 



Our Offer! 



To any present subscriber who sends us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $ 1 .00 each, w 
will send either the CHAFER or the CASSEROLE (both for 14 subscriptions) d< 



scribed below as a premium for securing and sending us 
the subscriptions. Elxpress charges to be paid by the 
receiver. 



Every One "WKo Has Received One 

of tKese CHafin^ DisKes Has 

Been Delighted WitK It 

and surprised how easily the necessary subscriptions 
were secured. Have yon obtained one yet? If not, 
start today to get the subscriptions, and within three or 
four days you will be enjoying the dish. 

The Chafer is a full-size, three pint, nickel dish, with 
all the latest improvements, including handles on the hot 
water pan. It is the dish that sells for $5.00. 





A.ddres« 



Long slow cooking, at a gentle heat, 
best conserves the nutritive elements 
of food and the flavors that render it 
most agreeable. The earthen Casserole 
makes this method possible. Then, 
too, the Casserole is the serving as 
well as the cooking dish. The house- 
keeper who is desirious of setting a 
pleasing table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money will find 
a Casserole almost indispensable. 

The Casseroles We Offer 

are made by one of the leading man- 
ufacturers of the country for their 
regular trade. The dish is a three- 
pint one, round, eight inches in dia- 
meter, fitted with two covers, (an 
earthenware cover for the oven and a 
nickel plated one for the table) and 
a nickel plated frame. It is. such an 
outfit as retails for five or six dollars. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
86 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




65c a Month 

Gets My Latest 

In Scotch Plaids. A fine grade material, 
waist trimmed with covered buttons, 
bias panel down entire front. Inserted 
plait down the back. Strictly 

MADE-TO-MEASURE 

This insures a perfect fit no matter 
whether your child is stout or slim. My 
exclusive styles guarantee that your 
child will be well dressed and look bet- 
ter than other children. 

Do not confuse this offer with "ready- 
made" clothes that have to be altered 
and never fit perfectly. 

Mothers, I can please 
Your Big Cirl or Your Little Cirl 

Write today for my style book and . 
valuable hints on how to dress children 
properly and becom'ngly. 
MADAME PATRICE. 16 Dres8BIdg^Detroit,Mieh. 




MAGIC COVER 

^ic Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin ; rhemicaiiy 
ated and hygienic; recommended by leading teachers of 
iking. By mail. 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

rmerly of F. A. WALKEB & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store In New Englano 
410 Boylston St.. Boston, Mass. 



A Competent 
Servaoit 

Always at Your 
Command 




ELECTRO 

JZ Silver Polish l\ 

Silicon 

It quickly Cleans and Polishes SIL- 
VERWARE and all fine metals, and 
restores their natural brilliant lustre 
and beauty — all without the least 
scratching or wearing. Easy to 
use; economical and effective. Free 
front acids and chemicals. The 
^andard of merit for over 40 years. In- 
si^ on the genuine. Send address for 
FREE SAMPLE 

Or. 15c. in stamps for full sized box. P'^st-paid, 

The Electro Silicon Co.. 30 Cliff Strf-et N.w York. 

Sold by Grocers and Drugrgists Ever>"v\ here. 



We have an Attractive 
Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

Write us if you wish to canvass your 
town or if you wish to secure only a few 
names among your friends and acquaint- 
ances. Start the work at once and you 
will be surprised how easily you can earn 
ten, twenty or fifty dollars. 

Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School 

Magazine Co. 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Beautify Your Hair 

With W alnut Tint H air Stain 

Light Spots, Gray or Streaked 
Hair Quickly Stained to a 
Beautiful Brown. 

^ Trial Bottle Sent Upon Request. 

Nothing gives a woman the 
appearance of ape more surely 
than gray, streaked or faded 
hair. Just a touch now and 
then with Mrs. Potter's Wal- 
nut-Tint Hair Stain, and 
presto! Youth has returned 
again. 

No one would ever suspect 
that you stained your hair 
after you used this splendid 
preparation. It does not rub 
otr as dyes do. and leaves the 
hair nice and fluffy, with a 
beautiful brown color. 

It only takes you a few min- 
utes once a month to apply 
Mrs. Potter's Walnut-Tint 
Hair Stain with your comb. 
Stains only the hair, is easily 
and quickly applied, and it is- 
free from lead, sulphur, silver, 
and all metallic compounds. 
Has no odor, no sediment, no 
grease. One bottle of Mrs, Potter's. 
Walnut-Tint Hair Stain should last 
you a year. Sells for $1.00 per 
bottle at first-class druggists. We 
guarantee satisfaction. Send your name and address, and 
enclose 25 cents (stamps or coin) and we will mail you, 
charges prepaid, a trial package, in plain, sealed wrapper, 
with valuable booklet on hair. Mrs. Potters Hygienic 
Supply Co., 1597, Groton Bldg., Cincinnati, O. 




Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
87 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




THERE are two striking things about the incident on the Burmese 
coast pictured above. The first is the box of soap floating on the 
water. The second is the presence of Ivory Soap so far from home. 



In carrying the case from one boat to 
another, a Chinese coolie dropped it 
overboard. But a native in his sampan 
quickly recovered it for, as you know. 
Ivory Soap floats. 

The soap was on its w^ay to one of the 
shops in Mandalay catering to the trade 
of foreigners. These residents, coming 
to the tropics from cooler countries, suf- 



fer greatly with prickly heat. They find 
that frequent bathing with Ivory Soap so 
cools, soothes and refreshes the skin that 
it is kept free from irritation. ' 

Ivory Soap is delightfully effective — 
cleanses so thoroughly and so gently 
— because it lathers freely, rinses easily 
and contains no "free" (uncombined) 
alkali. 



Ivory Soap It Floats 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
88 



Dishes for Picnic Luncheons 

Cold Corned Beef (fancy brisket) Sliced Thin 

Cold Fried Chicken 

Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Cold Boiled Eggs, Stuffed with Sardines 

Crab Meat Salad (in glass jar) 

Potato Salad 

Pickled Beets 

Deviled Ham Sandwiches 

Peanut Butter Salad Dressing Sandwiches 

Cheese-and-Sliced Nut Sandwiches 

Flora Dora Buns 

Salad Rolls 

Peach Turnovers Currant Jelly Tarts 

Brownies Wafer Jumbles 

Gherkins Olives Salted Nuts Lemonade 

Green Corn Roasted in Ashes 

Hot Grilled Bacon 

Hot Coffee 



Dishes for Piazza Luncheons 

Watermelon Cocktail 

Jellied Chicken Broth en Tasse 

Clam Broth, with Whipped Cream 

Chicken-and-Tomato Bouillon 

Brook Trout, Biarritz (Hollandaise Sauce) 

Chicken a la King (chafing dish) 

Mexican Rabbit (chafing dish) 

Fried Sweetbreads, Green Peas 

Green Corn in Cream 

Tomatoes Scalloped, with Cheese, 

Onions or Nuts 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Peppers Stuffed with Rice, 

Tomato and Cheese 

Scalloped Egg- Plant 

Egg-Plant, Marseillaise 

Tomatoes, Stuffed, with D'Uxelles 

Blackberry Shortcake 

Peach Ice Cream 

Peach Sherbet 
Raspberry Parfait 



The 

Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



VOL XVII 



AUG.-SEPT., 1912 



No. 2 



Treatment of Hard Wood Floors 



By Mary H. Northend 



IN building, or in remodelling a 
house, the owner depends chiefly 
on the advice of the architect or 
contractor, as to the material to be used 
for the floors, and also for the finish 
to be applied to them. 

Regarding the superiority of one wood 
over another as to his particular needs, 
he has generally only a vague idea, and 
consequently all is left to the contractor, 
with the result, oftentimes, that when 
the floors are laid they are not what he 
expected, and are more or less of a dis- 
appointment. The purpose of this ar- 
ticle is to show, to a certain extent, the 
relative value of different woods as 
flooring material, when used under vari- 
ous conditions ; the method of laying 
and finishing, and the care which should 
be given it by the housewife, to keep 
it in first-class condition. 

The floors laid in houses today are 
noticeably different from those laid some 
twenty-five years ago. Hard wood floors 
were then laid in fanciful designs, with 
borders combining a number of different 
woods in contrast. But in the finest 
houses of today this idea is not in favor. 
One kind of wood only is used, and 
this is generally laid in narrow strips, in 



one direction, or in the herring-bone, or 
some similar design. 

In choosing the wood for flooring it 
is very necessary to consider the climatic 
conditions, regulating the amount of ar- 
tificial heat required in the house. Cer- 
tain kinds of wood that may be used and 
give satisfaction in a warm climate, or 
in a house intended for summer use 
only, will not give good results in an 
artificially heated Northern home. 

The most satisfactory wood for floor- 
ing is white oak, quartered, chiefly be- 
cause it retains its shape year after year 
and does not twist and curl. Mahogany 
and teak wood are also used success- 
fully, but are much more expensive than 
oak, and beyond the means of the aver- 
age house owner. 

For a less expensive flooring, hard 
pine and birch are both used, and make 
a most satisfactory substitute, retaining 
the shape equally as well as oak. The 
hard pine is found principally along the 
South Atlantic States, that from Georgia 
being considered the finest grained. 

This wood does not make quite as de- 
sirable flooring, where hard wear is to 
be considered, as after a time the sur- 
face of the floor will have a cloudy ap- 



99 



100 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



pearance ; but again it has advantages 
in being less expensive to lay and finish 
than one of oak, as the wood is softer 
and more easily worked. The price of 
maple and birch runs about the same as 
for pine, but the cost of labor is about 
the same for working them, as is that 
of oak. 

The beautiful satiny finish and the 
grain of the wood make the birch a most 
desirable flooring for any part of the 
house. Unfortunately, both the birch 
and maple have a tendency to curl and 
twist, and as the pores are small, the 
finish does not penetrate as in other 
woods. A single strip of maple or birch 
will twist and become very much mis- 
shapen. The best place for a floor of 
either of these two woods is in the 
kitchen. Here the floor is frequently 
washed, and steam heat not used. It is 
impossible where much artificial heat is 
used to keep the same even temperature 
and moisture in the wood work the year 
round, and because the white oak is the 
least affected by these conditions, it is 
far superior to other woods as a floor- 
ing material. 

The quarter sawing, which is meant 



when speaking of quartered oak, is 
sometimes called rift, edge grain, comb 
grain, or radial, as contrasted with plain, 
flat grain, or tangential sawing. In plain 
sawing, the log is sawed through and 
through, successive boards being taken 
off until the log is sawed away. This 
process economizes lumber, time, and 
labor, thus accounting for the small cost 
of plain sawed lumber in comparison 
with the quartered. In quarter sawing 
the log is first cut into quarters and these 
are then cut into boards. 

In this method of sawing, the grain 
shows up plainly in big w^avy lines, 
which easily distinguishes the quartered 
from the plain sawed board. The per- 
pendicular expansion and contraction in 
the quarter sawed boards makes no dif- 
ference in the wearing qualities of a 
floor, but in the plain sawed boards the 
expansion and contraction is sideways, 
thus causing the floor to warp and crack, 
so the plain savvied oak floor is not de- 
sirable, although this stock properly se- 
lected, laid and finished, makes one of 
the most attractive floors to be had, and 
would be most desirable from an eco- 
nomical viewpoint, were it not for the 



1 


1 


-— — 


;-^H^H 


Mi 


¥1^ 


\n 


^ 


■:.i:«:<»f-:S 




r" 



PLAIN HARD WOOD FLOOR 



TREATMENT OF HARD WOOD ^r LOORS 



101 




EASILY KEPT IN GOOD CONDITION 



large amount of expansion and contrac- 
tion, which the boards undergo during 
changes of season. 

Any Hve wood, that is, any wood until 
it becomes punk, will undergo a certain 
amount of expansion and contraction. 
Some expert floor dealers make accur- 
ate tests as to the state of dryness in 
flooring. Apothecary's scales are used, 
and about two ounces of the chips are 
taken from the wood and weighed, and 
then placed over very dry heat. These 
are later weighed again, and if they have 
lost more than 5 per cent, of their for- 
mer weight, the floor dealer knows the 
wood has not been sufficiently prepared 
in the dry kiln to withstand the changes 
of heat and moisture, which wood placed 
in an artificially heated house will un- 
dergo. 

There is an idea very commonly held 
that all lumber for interior woodwork 
should be made as dry as possible before 
it is put in to a house. One frequently 
hears of lumber for flooring being de- 
Hvered at the house right from the kiln. 



The flooring under these circumstances 
is, of course, drier than the house, even 
when steam heat is in use. As the floor 
gradually absorbs some of the moisture 
of the house, it invariably bulges, and, 
as it never again returns to the state of 
extreme dryness in which it was when 
first laid, it can never be satisfactory. 
A house should be thoroughly dry before 
a floor is laid ; that is, as dry as it is 
under ordinary conditions of heat, and 
the floor should be dry enough to with- 
stand those conditions. Much fine old 
woodwork, put in houses before steam 
heating was introduced/has been warped 
and split by the drying-out of the mois- 
ture in the wood after greater heat is 
introduced. Boards for flooring come 
in various thicknesses, but 5/16-inch 
and %-inch boards are most commonly 
used. 



The 



-inch boards, tonmie;! and 



grooved, are put into the majority of 
new houses today. If 5/16-inch boards 
are used, they are laid square edge with 
^-inch nails, counter-sunk, and the nail 



102 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



holes are filled with putty. Some car- 
penters lay ^-inch boards, tongued and 
grooved, but these, while satisfactory for 
summer cottages, will not stand so well 
in an all the year round home. 

The tongue is too thin to allow of 
driving the nail through without danger 
of splitting, so the floor is consequently 
insecurely held, and when the boards 
contract the edges have a tendency to 
rise. The old method of laying the 
rough foundation, and the top floor with 
parallel boards, the boards of the top 
floor coming directly over the cracks, 
has been discarded. This plan was a 
poor substitute for matched boards at 
a time when tongue and groove work 
was done by hand, making it a too ex- 
pensive process for common flooring. 

The first process in laying the hard- 
wood floor is a careful preparation of 
the under floor. If the house is an old 
one, the foundation floor may not be 
quite level. A careful planing is, there- 
fore, of great importance in determining 



the successful laying of the new floor. 

After the floor is nailed into place, it 
is given a careful and thorough scraping, 
and, lastly, given a thorough sanding 
with No. 1 sandpaper, to make it per- 
fectly smooth. No amount of sand- 
papering will remedy defects in scraping, 
so care must be taken with this process. 
When the floor is to be given a shellac 
finish, it is first given a coat of filler, and 
all nail holes are filled with coloring 
matter to match the wood. The first 
coat of shellac is then put on, and after 
drying, the floor is sandpapered, and a 
second coat of shellac is put on. When 
both are dry, the third and last coat is 
applied and dried, and then the floor is 
waxed. 

Some objection is raised to the use of 
wax on floors, as it is so slippery, con- 
sequently many floors are finished with- 
out any wax whatever. Although wax 
undoubtedly forms the best protection 
for a floor, as it prevents the shellac 
underneath from scratching. Left with- 




INTERIOR OF A RECEPTION ROOM 



MAKING OLIVE OIL OX CAPRI 



103 



out further dressing shellac gives a very 
good wearing surface, although not 
nearly so good as the wax. It has the 
advantage of drying quickly, so the floor 
may be used within a few hours from 
the time it has been applied. If shellac 
is not to be used, and the floor is to have 
a real wax finish, the filler is put on and 
allowed to stand twelve hours. The 
floor is then given a coat of what is 
called "reviver" and allowed to stand. 

Then it is given a coat of prepared 
wax. This wax is not the genuine bees- 
wax or paraffin, as they would never 
become hard. This prepared wax is ap- 
plied to the floor with a bit of cloth or 
cotton waste, and rubbed down very 
thin. Only a very thin film should be 
left on the surface of the floor. It is 
then gone over with the weighted brush, 
first in one direction, and then at right 
angles. It is finished by putting a cloth 
under the brush, and rubbing in one 
direction only. In the regular care of 
a wax finished floor, a dry mop should 
be used for removing the loose dust. 
On those parts of a floor that get the 
most usage it may be necessary to apply 
a little wax once a month. In other 
parts of the house once in six months is 
often enough. If the floor has been 
scarred by hard usage, it may be cleaned 
in the following various ways : 

1. For slight defects, clean with a 
cloth moistened with turpentine. 

2. For more serious defects sand- 



paper with Xo. 1 paper, then use tur- 
pentine. 

3. For still more serious defects, 
scour with steel wool and turpentine. 
Of course, by the above treatments the 
finish is removed, and the wax must be 
again applied. 

Regular sweeping with the dry mop 
is all that is necessary for the shellaced 
floor, with perhaps a wiping over once 
or twice a year with a damp cloth. This 
should be done with caution, however, as 
the effect of the dampness tends to wear 
the shellac from the floor. 

While figures show that the original 
cost of hardwood flooring is more than 
for carpeting, there is another side to 
the question of cost. Carpets require 
frequent cleaning, renovating, and re- 
laying, and, with ordinary wear, last for 
a comparatively short time. The hard- 
wood floor is permanent; it takes on 
added beauty with time, and the cost and 
labor of keeping in good condition are 
slight, if regularly given proper atten- 
tion. 

As a decorative feature, an oak or 
other hardwood floor lends a fine, rich 
tone to a room, and more completely 
furnishes it than any carpet or other 
form of floor covering. If the stock 
be properly selected and dried, and 
proper attention paid to the condition 
of the house before the floor is laid, the 
hardwood floor will give greater satis- 
faction to the owner with longer use. 



Making Olive Oil on Capri 

Bv E. A. B. 



THE making of olive oil on Capri 
is almost a "festa." For days 
beforehand the peasants are 
gathering the olives. Thro' the gray 
green of the olive trees you will see 
flashes of color, — blue, red, yellow, in 
the dresses and head-kerchiefs of the 
women picking and sorting the olives 



on the ground, while the men take the 
easier task of pulling the fruit from the 
trees ; then carrying the huge, round, 
flat baskets of olives on their heads, — 
the women, of course, as this is ''wom- 
en's work" in Italy, — to the place where 
they are stored until a sufficient quantity 
is gathered to start the making of the 



104 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




AS FREQUENTLY ^EEX 

oil. 

It is a pretty sight along the sunny 
hills, the men and women working to- 
gether, singing a song in a nasal, mon- 
otonous tone, peculiar to Capri. And 
there is also much laughter and gossip 
among them, as they are always a merry, 
happy folk. The women, with their bur- 
dens carried on their heads, have a 
straight, erect carriage that is to be en- 
vied. 

The "padrona" of my villa, "Con- 
cetta" by name, showed me a great lot 
of olives she was keeping until all should 
be ready. These were kept in the 
kitchen, which was really the basement 
of the villa, and where she with *'Rafa- 
elle," her husband, lived during the day. 
Also where they kept their wine, — the 
good red and white Capri wine, — in 
large casks until ready for shipping. 
And most of this wine, by the way, goes 
to South America, which is to be re- 
gretted, as it is so far superior to the 



less expensive wines we have in this 
country. 

The "kitchens" are most attractive 
places, and most picturesque. For con- 
stant use they would, probably, not be so, 
but, seen at night after the day's work 
is done, they are homelike and beauti- 
ful. 

Concetta, with a bright red head-ker- 
chief round her head, bare-footed, in a 
blue cotton dress, is a picture. She is 
busy preparing the evening meal, which 
is cooked on sort of an open stove in 
one corner. There is no way of getting 
rid of the smoke except by the wide 
doors, which lead outside to the walk by 
the villa and on down to the sea. But 
as the climate is almost perfect, the 
doors are seldom closed. ^ ^ 

The room is decorated, unconsciously, 
of course, with festoons of red peppers 
drving, also large bunches of grapes, 




WOMEN OF CAPRI 



MAKING OLl\'E OIL ON CArRI 



105 



which are also dried and packed in sugar 
afterwards. Lighted by the flickering 
Hght of one small candle on the round 
table, and the blaze from the charcoal 
fire, it is all so artistic, so Jtalian. 

Any friend, passing to or from the 
village, is asked to stop, or possibly some 
of the fishermen coming home late from 
the sea, to share the simple evening 
meal. This consists sometimes of small 
fresh fish, fried in olive oil, and a little 
garlic, with the addition of bread and a 
bottle of wine. Or, perhaps a dish of 
beans, boiled with a sort of spinach, and 
cooked afterwards with oil and a little 
garlic. After a rain it is sure to be a 
dish of snails, boiled and then served 
with a sauce of strained tomatoes and 
garlic. And delicious beyond words is 
a plate of fresh black or green figs, just 
gathered in the garden and served on a 
plate in their own green leaves. 

Simple as the menu is, it is always 
good. I know, as I, too, have been in- 
vited to partake, and the hospitality is 
genuine, — almost childlike. 

On the morning I went to the olive 
oil making, Concetta came in haste and 
great excitement to "beg" me to come. 
We wTnt back of the villa a short dis- 
tance up the hill to a stone building, 
which we would call a country barn. 



but it is used, I think, for this purpose 
only, though there was a sort of an open 
loft where much hay was drying, which 
made a picture. 

At one end of the large room was a 
huge stone basin, about 25 feet in cir- 
cumference, and about 3 feet in depth. 
This inclined toward the center, and the 
olives wxre placed in this sort of basin, 
and were then mashed by a large stone, 
which was pulled around by a horse. 
Round and round for hours he goes, 
while the old peasant with a long- 
handled fork, continually pushed the 
olives toward the center. It was not 
unlike a one-ring country circus, w'ith 
the crowd of assembled peasants, — sis- 
ters, cousins, aunts, uncles, and even 
grandfathers, — all laughing and chatter- 
ing gaily. 

The olives, when sufficiently mashed 
to a pulp, are put into large round bas- 
kets. These are made of some sort of 
rope, and they are then put under a 
great iron press, after hot w^ater is 
poured on each in turn, and the oil 
trickles down to a cask below the floor. 
It is finally put into great glass bottles 
and allowed to stand for four or five 
weeks. It is delicious, even when first 
made ; and to me there fs no oil in the 
world like the oil of Capri. 



5unfl 



owers 



Tall they stand in my garden, old, — 
Stately sunflowers, wreathed in gold; — 
Hearkening the cricket's croaking tune, — 
Or a belted bee drawl his drowsy rune. 

Adown the aisle, through a rainbowed mist, 
They smile with the blooms by dawn's rose 

kis't— 
And flash the gold from their torches bright — 
When moonbeams silver the sea of night. 



Yes,— watch they keep, with the rising sun, — 
And fahhful stand when day's sands have run, — 
Spreading their leaves that night's dew may spill 
Glittering gems on each yellow frill. 

'Tis sometimes said, that the sunflower, old, — 
Is "heartless, scentless, awkward, and cold." 
But,— gold is my garden, where rows of them 

wait, — 
To banish care that would steal through my gate. 
Agnes Lockhart Hughes 



Her First Case 



By Laura Downs 



YES, Madame would dine in her 
room. Yes, he might wait for 
Madame's order, and the door of 
the cheerful sitting room securely closed, 
Madam wept softly. Wherefore? 

She was twenty years and four months 
old ; she had never before been alone in 
a hotel ; she had been six hours mar- 
ried, and was lonely without her husband. 

That gentleman's failure to appear 
could be summed up in one word, appen- 
dicitis. Not that Dr. Blount was suffer- 
ing from that familiar malady — far from 
it. When the little lady, now weeping, 
had promised at high noon to love, honor, 
and obey, Dr. looked worthy of the trust. 
W^hen he promised in clear tones to cher- 
ish and protect the small person, whose 
blonde head barely reached his shoulder, 
he had been a fine example of stalwart, 
dependable bridegroom. Why then was 
the new Mrs. Blount alone and in tears? 

Dr. was operating at St. Luke's. How 
many times during their brief engage- 
ment that dismal news had interrupted 
their plans ! Mrs. Blount's cousin, 
Emily, older, and herself married, had 
spoken the truth in jest when she said, 
"Molly, unless Dr. Blount marries you 
in office hours, when your appointment 
outranks all others, you will be compelled 
to have the ceremony at the hospital." 

The wedding breakfast had been a 
marvel of good taste and elegance, their 
car stood just off the avenue in a quiet 
side street, but even then they had not 
escaped entirely the demonstrative fare- 
well of bridesmaids and ushers. The 
confetti had not all shaken out of the 
dainty hat, just removed, some of it still 
clung appreciatively to the blonde waves. 
She had begged to see the telegram 
that the Dr.'s best man slipped into his 
hand as they started, but the Dr., him- 
self, had not read it until they were com- 
ing in to South Norwalk. Then he had 



turned pale, and dropping the hateful, 
yellow slip had rushed for ""long dis- 
tance." 

When he had returned within a few 
minutes. Dr. Blount had changed from 
the care-free bridegroom to the well- 
known surgeon, intent on the operation 
he must perform in just three hours' 
time. 

''Molly, " as he held the message to- 
wards her, 'T don't know how to tell 
you — if, only, it were anybody else — but 
Ralph Steiner, why, he is like a brother 
— their house was the only home I knew 
in my early years in the North. I cannot 
refuse it, it is three o'clock now — I must 
be at St. Luke's in two hour's. I have 
ordered everything ready for the opera- 
tion at six o'clock. If all goes well, I 
will join you before eleven at Lenox." 

"Now, dear, be brave, take the train 
as we had planned — I know it's hard — 
go at once to the hotel, the suite is en- 
gaged. Jack must take me right back to 
town — Molly; if you knew what it costs 
me to leave you !" 

A kiss, and he was gone. Mrs. Blount 
was, indeed, obeying, but she had some 
difficulty in distinguishing the beauty of 
the autumn coloring, and a tear presently 
dimmed the luster of her new wedding 
ring. 

An express for New York, noisily 
passing, made her wonder why she had 
not thought of that solution of her prob- 
lem, but the idea was as swiftly rejected 
as unworthy ; though her tears fell fast 
as she thought of the consternation at 
home, if the truth were known. 

The car from the hotel was waiting at 
the little station. "Mrs. Blount!"— the 
name was twice repeated before it oc- 
curred to Molly that the driver could be 
addressing her. And, "Dr. Blount!" 

"Dr. Blount is delayed at the hospital, 
I expect him, my husband, later this 



106 



HER FIRST CASE 



107 



evening." The announcement was made 
with much dignity as she paused to reg- 
ister an unfamiHar title. 

As she passed to the elevator a small 
''buttons" remarked, "her husband did 
she say? Looks like it ought to be her 
father, now I think." 

"Don't think!" interrupted the clerk at 
the desk. *'Dr. Blount is young, too, 
but he is a wonder when anybody is on 
the table. Three calls came here for 
him this afternoon ; it's Dr. Steiner, great 
man on throats, he is, but he's about all 
in now with appendicitis. Dr. Blount is 
to operate, and you may believe there will 
be a line of doctors and nurses to watch 
him." 

Mrs. Blount did not linger over her 
solitary meal, the lump in her throat 
made eating a laborious process. Be- 
fore eight o'clock she had decided to 
stop crying, and not to telephone to the 
Dr., or, stronger temptation still, her 
mother. Instead she brushed her long 
braids, and, seating herself before the 
fire, tried to read. 

Something pinned to the brief sleeve 
of her dainty negligee attracted her at- 
tention : — 

''Darling Molly. iMother misses her 
eldest daughter, already, but she gives 
her willingly to one of the best men in 
the world. Remember, dear child, th^ 
wife of a physician must learn to think 
first of his work, even when it takes 
him from her. Mother has learned this 
in twenty-five years of married life." 

That loving little message saved the 
day; Molly dried her eyes, said her 
prayers and tried not to think how big 
and lonely the room seemed. The tele- 
phone rang sharply — "Mrs. Blount" — 
"Yes, yes," then Dr.'s voice, regret, love, 
sympathy : — 

"The operation was most successful — 
I'll be with you, dear, in a few hours, 
now do try to rest." It needed all 
Molly's newly acquired courage to reply 
cheerfully; even then the tell-tale wire 
faithlessly transmitted the break in her 
"Good Night." 



Somewhere in the distance a clock 
struck, and Molly woke to hear some one 
knocking at her door, demanding Dr. 
Blount. One moment later the weeping 
visitor was telling Molly her woes. "I 
am Mrs. Brown of Pasadena — my hus- 
band has gone to New York, and Baby 
is dying of croup." 

"Oh, don't say that," exclaimed Molly 
— "no, Dr. Blount has not come, though 
I am expecting him." 

"Well, maybe yoii know what to do — 
sometimes doctors' wives know just as 
much as the doctors themselves." Molly 
did know what to do ; one of her precious 
younger brothers had suffered from 
croup, and his best loved Molly had suf- 
fered with him, and remembering her 
mother's words, she donned dressing- 
gown and slippers, crossed the corridor, 
and took command. 

Poor Baby Brown was certainly in a 
sad state ; suffering almost equally from 
his own lack of breath, and his loving 
mother's lack of sense. "If Ellen were 
only here — this new nurse knows noth- 
ing," she wailed. Evidently the hotel 
was doomed to a night of weeping. 

"Now stop crying, all of you," said 
Molly — ''give me some hot water — now 
wring out that cloth — wrap it in a towel, 
then, if it is too hot — rub in that oil 
slowly — no, I don't believe he has any 
temperature — where is your thermome- 
ter? See, there is nothing to speak of! 
Have you ever tried vapor for him — 
you have Cresolene — with you? Then 
why didn't you use it directly? 

"No, this room is too large — take him 
into that little dressing-room — here, let 
me take him." Baby evidently recog- 
nized an experienced hand ; in answer to 
Molly's even tones he took the drops he 
had refused, little by little, his breathing 
grew better, and the poor little man, 
worn by his struggle, nestled his head on 
Molly's arm and fell asleep. 

"No, don't take him, I would not dis- 
turb him for anything. Now you lie 
down, Mrs. Brown — yes, I will call you, 
if I need you ; Hilda will stay with me — 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



I expect Dr. Blount soon — it's after four 
now, and he will take the case." 

'*Oh, I don't believe he could do one 
bit better himself," whispered the grate- 
ful mother as she withdrew. 

Beyond Great Barrington the big 
Renault was flying along 'twixt dark and 
dawn with all speed laws slumbering. 
Dr. Blount held the wheel, and his man, 
Jack, could have testified that now and 
then the Dr. spoke, and not to him. And 
why should he groan when the big ma- 
chine was beating its own record on the 
empty highways, and purring softly with 
satisfaction. 

''The darling, to think of leaving her 
within four hours after the ceremony — 
it would have served me right, if she had 
gone back to the home from which I had 
no right to take her ! What business has 
a surgeon with a wife, anyway — there 
ought to be a law — 

And how brave her poor little voice 
sounded when she telephoned ! How she 
mu*t feel alone in that great place, a 
whole suite to herself, the poor baby! I 
know I shall find her crying, and I don't 
blame her." Thus did the Dr. commune 
with his own sad spirit. 

Quietly the big car stole along the 
drive; a sleepy watchman opened the 
door. "Yes, I know the number — Good 
Lord, I am all done up — Number 20, 



yes, that's the room — the door not locked 
— how could Molly be so careless!" 

Dr. Blount strode swiftly across the 
room; the bed room door was ajar, the 
room was empty ! A sudden weakness 
made the strong man drop onto the near- 
est chair — could she have gone home 
after all ! No, for the dressing bureau 
and couch gave evidence that Mrs. 
Blount was not far away. 

From across the corridor sounded a 
familiar voice — could it be Molly? He 
strode to the door; what in Heaven's 
name! Molly was just laying Baby 
Brown tenderly in his crib, her young 
cheek looked pale in the gray dawn, her 
long braids swept to her knees, the little 
pink dressing-gown was crumpled, but 
never had the Dr. seen her so adorable. 
T^.Iolly's voice was hushed, but her as- 
sured manner, the most ridiculous imita- 
tion of what she had often called "the 
Dr.'s very best office style." 

"Yes, Mrs. Brown, he's sleeping beau- 
tifully ; Hilda can watch him very nicely 
now ; yes, I would give him drops as 
soon as he wakes — these sudden attacks 
are frightening, I know, but my husband 
says — " she turned tov/ards the door, 
— "Douglas, oh, Douglas !" she cried, and 
throwing herself into that gentleman's 
waiting arms, Molly handed over the 
case. 



At Nightfall 



Sweet is the highroad when the skylarks call, 

When we and Love go rambling through 
the land. 

But shall we still walk gaily hand in hand 
At the road's turning and the twilight's fall? 
Then darkness shall divide us like a wall, 

And uncouth evil nightbirds flap their 
wings ; 

The solitude of all created things 
Will creep upon us shuddering like a pall. 



This is the knowledge I have wrung from 

pain 
We, yea, all lovers, are not one, but twain, 
Each by strange wisps to strange abysses 
drawn. 
But through the black immensity of night 
Love's little lantern, like a glow-worm's 
bright, 
May lead our steps to some stupendous 
dawn. 

George Sylvester Viereck. 




Tony's Museum 



By Alice Shea 



DOWX on the beach, the fisher- 
men said that Tony was lazy. 
In the fine summer weather he 
used to sit before his Httle fisher-house 
and do nothing until he grew so hungry 
that he wished he had something to eat. 
A little hard tack or a bit of cold bread- 
pudding, sent over by Maria's little girl, 
was often enough to satisfy him. Once 
in a while he bent over the rusty stove 
and stirred up an onion, peeled and 
browned in salt pork, a couple of pota- 
toes, parboiled, a whole bottle of milk 
and a cod, carefully chopped in little 
pieces and scraped away from the bone; 
for Tony's w^as a boneless chowder. 
The water that he set the skin and fish 
bones to simmer in he strained into the 
chowder, and it was to the flavor added 
by this liqueur that Tony owed his rep- 
utation as a cook. If it were not for the 
trouble of getting the bowl of crackers 
and the quart bottle of milk, he w^ould 
make chowder oftener, for cod and hake 
were easily to be had of any of the 
fishermen. Tony's chow^der was de- 
licious. Warmed over it lasted many 
days. 

Often Nella sat by his side on the 
weather-beaten bench in the shelter of 
the tiny house. She did not knSw that 
she was being "minded" by Tony, that 
her ]\Iother Alaria had gone into Glou- 
cester to sell eggs and do an errand. 
Nella thought she was just "visiting." 
The old man and the little girl liked to 
be together. They w^alked along the 
beach, gathering shells, mosses, seaweed, 
and pebbles. Tony was always looking 
for something. Nella loved to help him, 
although she did not know what it was 
he was hunting for on the curve of white 
sand lying between two wild rocky points 
that reached out to sea, breaking the 
strong water into feathery foam. Nella 
picked up all sorts of things along the 



beach, flinging pebbles into the water, 
keeping the shells and giving Tony little 
bits of leafy seaweed. Running from 
the place where she found something 
that seemed to her very nice, as fast as 
her chubby browned legs would carry 
her, she gave it to the bent old man, 
crying, 

'T've got it, Tony ! Look !" 

Tony, however, was never sure that 
he had found it. 

Nella's father coming around the point 
in his dory, dragged his boat high on 
the dry beach, picked up the day's 
"catch," cod, hake, herring and, once in 
a while, a mackerel. It was not as it 
used to be in Gloucester Harbor. Mack- 
erel were getting scarce and scarcer. A 
fine sweet mackerel was now a delicacy 
that would bring fifty cents at any of 
the summer houses, but Nella's father 
always kept his and boiled it crisp and 
brown for Maria. He weighed his fish 
and, on the way to the ^Merchants' Ex- 
cange, overtook Tony and Nella, and 
cried out, 

''Hey, fellers, what today ?" 

This was enough to make Tony and 
Nella happy. Tony felt that the fisher- 
man was interested in his search, and 
Nella felt that she was being of service. 

Once indoors, Nella's father drew 
^laria to the door to watch the strange 
pair trudging along, hand-in-hand, and, 
pointing his finger to his head, nodding 
towards Tony, he said to his wife, 

"Eh, Mother? A little to the nor' nor' 
west," for the fisherman in his wisdom 
thought that Tony was old and crazy. 

Although Tony was nearly a hundred 
years old, he remembered the summer 
the man from Cambridge knocked at his 
door and begged him to take him in and 
let him live with him for a little while. 

What a summer it had been ! 

The man from Cambridge had a dory 



109 



110 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



with a green glass bottom. They ahnost 
lived in the boat. Through the glass they 
watched the ever-changing ocean bed 
where hills and valleys succeded one 
another as they do outside the window 
of a train. How fascinating to watch 
the fishes, not piled for market as in the 
Exchange, or hanging bleeding from a 
fish hook. Tony recalled those early 
fishing days down on the Banks of New- 
foundland when a ship's crew pulled in 
lines busily, landing fish after fish on the 
slippery decks, rebaiting as fast as they 
could for the next bite — now he could 
watch them running about at play, stay- 
ing quietly at home by some weedy rock, 
little ones beginning to swim out and 
away, with mothers in the lead as if to 
ward away danger. There were lobsters 
and crabs crawling along the muddy 
places looking for something to eat. It 
was very exciting to see the fishes gather 
into little bands, and dart, in and out, 
and up and down, flashing like forked 
lightning. 

It was almost too wonderful. 

It was more strange, more stirring 
than hauling a fifty-pound cod over the 
side and landing it for the admiration of 
a whole crew. 

Tony and the man carried grappling 
hooks. With these they reached over the 
sides of the drifting dory and dragged 
the beautiful delicate algae that grew on 
the rocky bottoms. A dredge would only 
destroy things, ruin the feeding ground 
of the fishes and drive them to other 
coves in search of new homes. Nothing 
made the man angrier than to hear of 
the dredge at work across the harbor. 
He flew into a rage. Tony liked him all 
the more for not wishing to deprive the 
fishes of their natural food. Of course, 
if it had been a shelly bottom, a dredge 
would not do so much harm. 

At low tide Tony and the man waded 
out in the eel grass. They each carried 
a long-handled net with a scraper on the 
side to gather specimens that grew near 
shore. They walked back and forth up 
the beach, emptying the nets into a big 



pail of salt water, and when they had 
quite a lot they carried the pail between 
them up to the little house, where they 
put the smaller pieces of seaweed into 
alcohol and kept the larger ones to mount 
on gray cards. 

Tony helped, taking some part in 
everything the man did, sitting beside 
him in the doorway of the fish house 
when the blow was too strong to go out 
in the dory, when it rained, or when they 
had such a pile of specimens to sort out 
that they really had to stay at home and * 
label them. There were almost always 
two of a kind, one of which the man 
gave Tony as nicely labelled as his own. 

Tony had a great respect for the long 
words written by the professor that he 
could not read, "Callithammion Daviesii, 
frondes minute tufted, branches scat- 
tered, patent, bearing in their axies 
facciculated ramuli, at whose tips are 
borne the spores." They suggested 
vaguely another world to him, a sphere 
of students, books and classes as far 
away and unlike his own as the planets. 
The fame of Tony's museum spread. 
Every summer brought new visitors who 
came to see and admire. 

When the professor had to go back to 
his classes in town, he told Tony to keep 
looking for more algae like No. 20, like 
it, but not exactly like it. Just. what the 
difference was Tony forgot. He often 
wishfid the man had been more definite. 

'Tf you only find that specimen for 
me, sir, I'll do anything for you, give you 

anything for it — a hundred dollars" 

he added. 'T'll be down again another 
season, and if you've got it for me, — " 
but they had to say good-bye hurriedly. 
The train was coming into the depot. 
The professor's last word was a loud 
and hearty "Auf Wiedersehen !" He 
was gone and he never came back to 
Lobster Cove. Tony, however, never 
gave up expecting him and hunting along 
the beach for a little bit of algae like 
specimen No. 20, like it, but a little dif- 
ferent. 

That eventful summer spoilt Tony for 



TONY'S MUSEUM 



111 



fishing. If he found that specimen, 
would he not have more money than he 
could save from many fishing seasons? 
The real reason was, not the money, but 
the fact that fishing no longer interested 
him. He could never forget that beau- 
tiful panoramic view of the bottom of 
the ocean seen through the glass-bot- 
tomed boat. He loved to stroll along the 
beach and pick up odds and ends. The 
fishermen dubbed him "Lazy Tony." 

One, two, three, four and five seasons 
passed since the Professor had spent the 
summer at Lobster Cove. Poor old Tony 
felt very badly about Nella, now quite a 
big child. Her eyes were sick. She 
could not bear the bright sunshine on 
the beach, and Tony missed her sorely. 
Maria, who was always so good and kind 
to him, used to come and sit sadly beside 
him. 

"Tony, if I could only take Nella to a 
good doctor, all would be good again. 
Oh, Tony, it is hard to be a mother!" 

She never was sure that Tony heard 
her. He sat still and grave, his hands 
clasped on a stout walking stick, his hat 
down over his eyes, staring into the sea. 

He was thinking, "If I could only find 
it, I would give Nella the hundred dol- 
lars. I'm an old man. All I need Maria 
would get for me." 

What really happened was this. One 
day a great strong young man tapped 
Tony on the shoulder, and cried right 
into his ear. 

"I'm from the hotel. Will you please 
let me see your "Museum !" 

"Aye, aye, come right in," Tony an- 
swered, getting up with eiTort and lead- 
ing the stranger into the house. The 
newcomer looked at each little specimen 
with keen delight. 

"By crickey, what have we here !" he 
exclaimed. "Callithammion Daviesii 
1897." "Where in thunder did you get 
these, sir? Bring a light. Got a can- 
dle?" 

He stayed until the sun set and Venus, 
riding high with the new moon, looked 
down on the little fisher house and heloed 



with a candle to illumine the labels of 
the old man from Cambridge for this 
splendid young man who also came from 
Cambridge. They were undoubtedly the 
duplicate of the collection now in Pro- 
fessor Wentworth's study. The labels 
proved it. He offered Tony any amount 
he would mention for the entire collec- 
tion. When Tony said, 

"One hundred dollars !" the young 
man said, 

"Jove, I'll give you two." 

Tony did not tell him about Nella. 
He did not tell him how he had been 
looking for just one more specimen all 
these four or five summers. He was a 
little confused. Too bad about his own 
professor who never came back. Some- 
how he wished he knew and would ap- 
prove of what he was going to do. His 
thoughts were coming too fast. He did 
not have many words anyway. 

He simply packed up his fine collection, 
— took the money from the young man, — 
one hundred dollars of it, the other hun- 
dred he promised to return with the next 
day — and then Tony sat down in his 
shorn little house and felt lonely. 

Pulling himself together he went over 
to Maria's and put the hundred dollars in 
Nella's hands. It was too much trouble 
to tell Maria what had happened. He 
had so few words. Maria knezv, when 
she saw Tony's empty house, but she 
could never understand how such an old 
man could have managed it all by him- 
self. Sitting in the train with Nella on 
their way to Boston, where they were 
going to see the best doctor in the state, 
Maria murmured, "Dear Old Tony ! 
He must have found Ihat thing he's been 
looking for so many years, after all." 

Nella grew slowly but steadily better. 
The following summer she was seen, now 
taller and stronger, but still only a little 
girl, walking hand-in-hand with a bent 
old man. It was Tony. Often they sat 
together on the much-weathered bench 
against the little fisher house. Nella's 
father, as he walked up the beach from 
his nets, called Maria to the door to look 



112 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



at the old man and the Httle girl. He 
knew but for Tony's unselfishness Nella 
might even now be looking out on the 
lovely water and not see the breakers 
smashing themselves on the two rocky 
points, nor the gulls swooping across the 



bay, nor that pretty brig away off on the 
horizon. 

Taking Maria's hand in his, he said 
"God bless old Tony," and Nella's 
mother, as if replying to prayer, said, 
"Amen!" 



His Way With An Apple 

By Helen Campbell 



THE fact is," said Aunt Patty, 
"I've felt kind of mean for a 
considerable time that I hadn't 
just stated the facts in the very begin- 
ning. I bake apples several kinds of 
ways, looking out always to pick out good 
ones, but I hadn't never heard of his 
way, and it's a fact, he sat by the stove 
or near it and oversee the whole business 
that first time. I will say it took me 
some aback for he's rather stylish for a 
minister, but he seemed to enjoy it so 
much I wouldn't say a word. I've always 
had the new ministers unless they was 
married, and sometimes for awhile even 
then, till they set up housekeeping for 
theirselves. But when the sewing so- 
ciety met at my house the first time after 
he come he hadn't baked any and I had 
my own that I knew you all lotted on and 
that come next to his, if I do say it. But 
when I had you all again about Thanks- 
giving time, and you praised up them 
apples he had puttered over a good hour, 
I was just goin' to tell an' he sort of 
winked at me and shook his head a mite, 
and I kept still j^nd felt mean as dirt. 
'Good ain't they?' he said, an' eat jest as 
if he hadn't never had anything like 'em 
before. "Tain't fair,' I said, when you 
was all gone. *Nex' thing you'll be read- 
ing me out of church for an untrust- 
worthy an' deceiving character,' an' he 
jest laughed. Now you know and I cer- 
tainly do feel better," and, at this point, 
Aunt Patty sighed a sigh that came up 
from her very shoes, it seemed, then 



turned a fiery red, for the young min- 
ister had entered softly and now stood 
just behind her shaking with suppressed 
laughter. 

"What I would like to talk about 
would be Aunt Patty's apple-pies," he 
said. "I know none of you are jealous, 
for she shares her recipes and takes so 
many prizes at county Fairs, that you all 
get the credit of being represented by her 
and are glad of it." 

At this point the entire Society laid 
down its work and clapped tempestuously 
for both the claimants to honors, till an 
impatient voice cried: 

"The rule! the rule! We want the 
rule, but we want to know how it hap- 
pens that you showed her how." 

The young minister paused and looked 
down reflectively. 

"One reason was and is that, having a 
touch of Dutch blood in my veins, I had 
eaten coddled apples, Dutch fashion, all 
my young days. Then, when I was four- 
teen or so, we went to Colorado, and to a 
High School and there was a boy's cook- 
ing class once a week for the boys that 
were going to be ranchmen, many of 
whose fathers were already so. I think 
your New England apples have a trifle 
more flavor than our far W^estern ones, 
but they are all good enough for me or 
any other sinner. But there was* a touch 
beyond even my blessed grandmother's 
methods, and that I acquired in Nor- 
mandy, during a year or two of travel 
and sojourn wherever I could with the 



HIS WAY WITH AN APPLE 



11, 



people. Later in Holland I found their 
methods and the French practically the 
same, and both are easy. We Yankees 
are mostly in a hurry and sometimes 
count care and delicacy, in preparation, 
too much fuss. 

"Now, to boil it all down, remember 
first that no apple is quite so good to 
bake as the greening, and that is true for 
pies too. Baldwins have always a touch 
of the acrid in their flavor when cooked. 
So, then, take a quart of fine greenings, 
wash and wipe and core, but do not pare. 
Put them in an agate pan, after sticking 
two cloves in each, and put in an earthen 
pudding-dish large enough to hold them. 
Pack close, and fill in all the chinks with 
quarters or thirds of peeled apples. 
Now add two and a half cups of sugar, 
a pinch of mace, the juice of one lemon 
and another small one, cut in very thin 
slices. Pour over all a cup of boiling 
water, cover with a close-fitting lid and 
bake in a hot oven twenty-five minutes. 
Then take off the lid, slacken the heat 
and cook till the apples look clear. Take 
out into a serving dish and pour over all 
the juice and set them to cool, uncovered. 
The rich juice jellies quickly, and is, if 
possible, even better than the apples. 
This, ladies, is the ideal baked apple and 
Aunt Patty's were so near that order that 
it needed only a touch to make them close 
kin." 

The young minister paused, and, after 
a moment, took his seat, but rose again, 
as if something had been forgotten. 

"It is the finest of chances," he said, 
"and I shall not spare you. As the son 
of a man who for many years was one 
of our foremost authorities among phy- 
sicians and laity alike, I naturally picked 
up many crumbs, — I might even say, at 
times, chunks of information as to the 
food qualities, and our general misuse 
or ignorance of many things that have 
large bearing on the health of children, 
and, indeed, on mankind in general. One 
of these was the necessity of savoriness 
as an essential, not alone in the gratifi- 
cation of taste, but in its power to stim- 



ulate all the gastric juices. Here our 
foreign brethren, especially the Italians, 
have immense advantage over us. They 
know the use of all pot-herbs, summer 
savory, sweet marjoram, sage and the 
like, and the window boxes in their quar- 
ter are gay, not only with blossoms, but 
with these herbs and thrifty tomatoes. 
A stew with them is a dish so savory 
that the smell alone is almost a dinner. 
I was taught how to make them, b}' an 
Italian grandmother, and my wife was 
taught by me so that she is even more 
proficient." 

"For the land's sake, have I heard 
straight?" whispered an old lady near 
the door, but the minister's quick ear 
had caught the words. 

"It rejoices me to say you have," he 
answered calmly. "I happen to have had 
some years in Colorado after cooking 
had been introduced in some schools as 
a knowledge absolutely necessary for 
the numbers of boys, sons of ranchmen, 
and, in turn, to become ranchmen. It 
was great fun as well as useful knowl- 
edge. I have only one regret. I had no 
knowledge of this most desirable way 
with apples and so could never give them 
what I consider a piece of very valuable 
information. But I am going out there 
this summer, and shall pay a visit to the 
old school and add it to their cookery 
books." 

"Somehow it don't seem quite exactly 
the thing for a Presbyterian minister in 
good and regular standing," a little oil 
lady in the background piped out, b t 
the minister replied with a laugh. "I 
am inclined to believe that any minister 
would preach a better sermon who had 
been brought up on savory, well- 
prepared food, including Aunt Patty's 
baked apples." and now, with another 
laugh and a bow that included the whole 
room, he was gone. 

"He's certainly pleasant enough," said 
the old lady as she tied her bonnet 
strings. "Pleasant enough, but I say 
again it ain't seemey for a minister to 
know so much about what ain't his busi- 



114 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ness an' ought not to be. But the Lord 
only knows what will come next, and I'm 
glad it's Him and not me that has to be 
accounted to. I ain't goin' to fool with 
greenins nor no other kind, when there 
is missionary barrels an' the heathen to 
be considered, an' I should say it, if it 
was my last word," and the old lady with 
a firm step went out from the laughing 
group, shaking her head as she went. 
''An Italian grandmother, indeed! 



It's the first time a Presbyterian church 
in good and regular standing in the com- 
munity has had a minister with an Italian 
grandmother! Something ought to be 
done about it." 

The old lady paused and looked re- 
flectively up and down the road. 

"There comes Elder Perkins with that 
lame boy of his'n," she said. "I'll just 
speak to him an' see what he thinks. 
He will know." 



Housekeeping In The Far East 

By Roy Temple House 



BETWEEN the two great islands of 
Borneo and New Guinea lies the 
smaller island of Celebes. My 
husband, who is a mining engineer, was 
sent there two years after 'our marriage 
to take charge of a newly opened gold 
mine ; and a year later, after he had built 
a house and arranged conditions so that 
a European woman and a two-year-old 
child could live with some degree of 
comfort, we followed him. 

We were three months on the way 
from Bremerhaven to our new home, 
the north-coast village of Sumalata, 
which is, being interpreted, "the full of 
whims." I had landed at Singapore and 
waited there three weeks for a vessel to 
carry us to the Celebes station of Goron- 
talo, from which it was a week's trip in 
a little coastwise steamer to our village. 
At Singapore I came in contact, for the 
first time, with the characteristic East 
Indian dress, which for women is the 
sarong, or kilt-like skirt, and the kahaja, 
or shapeless jacket, both of very light 
material and making a very comfortable, 
if not remarkably beautiful, costume. 
These skirts, however, worn with as 
much pride as we feel in the latest Paris 
creations, are often sewed with gold and 
silver thread, and sometimes cost as 
much as fifty or seventy-five dollars. 



I had scarcely touched land on our 
island before I experienced the novelty 
of an earthquake shock. The floor 
rocked beneath us, and I could see the 
ground outside undulating like a gently 
disturbed ocean. These shocks came so 
often that we became fairly reconciled 
to them, and to the sort of building 
which their frequent occurrence renders 
necessary. It would be folly to build an 
elaborate house, when any day you may 
see it lying a mass of ruins. All cup- 
boards, sideboards and other articles of 
furniture, whose upsetting might prove 
disastrous, are attached to the walls with 
stout cords ; all lamps are hanging lamps, 
all clocks are spring clocks, for no pen- 
dulum would swing regularly in that 
country of unstable foundations. 

No newly proclaimed monarch was 
ever received more eagerly and obse- 
quiously by his subjects than was the 
only white woman who had ever come 
to live in Sumalata. Before the little 
steamer had dropped anchor she was 
surrounded on all sides by small native 
boats dexterously handled by men, 
women and children. I was hailed with 
choruses of ''Tabe nonja, tabe nonjaV 
(Good day, lady!), to which I was able 
to answer ''Tabe, tabe!'' But when they 
had me on land, and the head man of 



HOUSEKEEPING IN THE FAR EAST 



115 



the village made me a long and sup- 
posedly complimentary address, my lin- 
guistic attainments were inadequate to 
follow the drift of his argument, not to 
speak of framing an appropriate re- 
sponse. This head man was a Moham- 
medan and had four wives and thirty- 
five children, which four families he 
showed remarkable discretion in keeping 
in four separate settlements. He visited 
us often, for he was afflicted with a num- 
ber of ailments for which European rum 
or cognac, in spite of their great variety 
of character, was always an eminently 
satisfactory cure. 

Our house stood on a hill, shut in be- 
tween two. high mountains. Like all 
houses on the island, it stood high on 
piles to discourage the hordes of centi- 
pedes and scorpions, which would other- 
wise have shared it with us. We had 
three large rooms with two verandas, 
one of which we used for a living-room, 
and the other for a sort of provisional 
kitchen. The real kitchen was a separate 
small building some twenty feet away, 
presided over by a native cook. Besides 
the cook, we had three servants, child- 
nurse and two men. Each received $6 a 
month, free lodging in a separate hut, 
and rice (that is, board). Broom, mop, 
hot water, soap, were unknown articles 
in this primeval paradise. The dishes 
were washed with cold water and wood- 
ashes, and set out in the sun to dry. But 
the triumph of all was the way the cloth- 
ing was washed. Regardless of the char- 
acter of the articles to be washed, our 
wash-man took them down to the river 
and hammered them against a stone till 
he decided, somewhat arbitrarily, that 
they were clean. I never knew a dirst- 
spot to disappear in this process, but I 
cannot say as much for buttons, trim- 
mings, and sometimes parts of the fabric 
itself. 

These zealous assistants rarely stayed 
with us more than two or three months. 
An islander who had worked as long as 
that generally needed the remainder of 
the year to recuperate. Neither did all 



our small articles of personal property 
stay with us. When a ring or a dish or 
an article of clothing would disappear 
and the servants were questioned, they 
would. volunteer to interview the village 
prophetess, and that lady, for a small 
consideration, would discover that the 
children had carried ofif the article in 
question and buried it, or more often 
that its loss was the work of evil spirits. 
Thus a valuable gold ring of my hus- 
band's which had been missing, was 
found to have returned to the mine from 
which it had been unwillingly extracted. 

I managed to forget these annoyances 
in the wonderful garden that grew 
around our house. We had a pineapple 
hedge from which I picked several of 
the luscious fruit every day ; and 
bananas, mangoes, cacao and oranges 
grew with such vigor as a resident of 
the temperate zone has no conception 
of. I bought a dozen hens for a dollar, 
ducks at ten cents each, and raised a 
great family with no difficulty, except 
from the snakes, whose inroads among 
them were sometimes discouraging. There 
was a great abundance of game, deer, 
boar, pheasant, and pigeon; but as meat 
would scarcely keep till night, we had to 
throw away the larger part of every 
animal my husband killed. I experi- 
mented with vinegar and other preserva- 
tives, but never with the slightest success. 

The bathing facilities were beautiful. 
Behind the house ran a little stream over 
which my husband had built a bathing- 
house. The water, heated by the blazing 
sun, (the temperature rarely fell below 
95 in the shade, and I am afraid to state 
the upper limit), was always comfortably 
warm, and we bathed and changed all 
our clothing twice a day. 

Some dissatisfaction on the part of the 
native mine-workers brought on a strike 
in which blood was shed, and we left the 
island somewhat abruptly. And now I 
look back at my housekeeping experience 
in the Far East with a feeling in which 
amusement, horror and something of 
romantic longing are mingled. 



A Cape Cod Clam Bake 

By Amy Littlefield Handy 



OUR two guests were anxious to 
know what a clambake might be 
like. We told them it might be 
almost anything from a half-baked clam, 
pulled out of the seaweed by burned fin- 
gers and seasoned with sand, to a ten- 
course dinner served in a club house. 
We knew our kind was the real thing 
and were always ready to get one up on 
the slightest excuse. 

Our favorite spot for a bake was on 
the Neck across the harbor, and we 
found the tide would suit us the next 
day, low at half-past eleven, so the boys 
could dig the clams in time for the bake 
and yet we should not have to start too 
early, for in our harbor we must con- 
sider the tides or we may find our launch 
high and dry on the flats. 

When the day came, it was perfect 
for our trip, sunny, with a good brisk 
north wind, which would make it com- 
fortable over on the beach at noon even 
with the sun baking on the white sand. 

Our guests were immensely interested 
in our preparations. A good basket of 
corn was picked and the outside husks 
taken off, sweet potatoes were washed, 
a loaf of brown bread put into a pail 
and tightly covered, ready to be heated 
up in the hot seaweed. With these we 
packed a jar of butter, one of cream and 
another of coffee, mixed with egg and 
cold water, also loaf sugar. 

Our hamper with the necessary dishes 
and napkins was brought out and we 
were ready to start, but not so our 
guests; they must find their bird books, 
their field glasses and, of course, their 
cameras. 

We were getting restless knowing 
how the tide was running out; at last 
the boys said we had delayed so long 
that we should have to drive to the pier, 
two miles away, and they would run the 
launch up there. A little more delay 



and the horse was harnessed and we 
were really started, but our troubles 
were not over. 

The pier was a crude affair with no 
float, so the only way to get aboard the 
launch at low tide was to go straight 
down a ladder, which was a small mat- 
ter to all of us but the feminine guest. 
She took one look at the ladder and lit- 
erally balked. Nothing we could say 
had the slightest effect upon her, she 
would never go down that ladder, never ! 
When that was made plain to us we sug- 
gested that she walk over the wet flats 
until we could get her into the skiff and 
from there to the launch, but she looked 
at her shoes and refused. "Time and 
tide wait for no man." Things were 
looking serious for the clam bake, when 
a small bare- footed youngster, with the 
true Cape Cod wit, threw a piece of 
board in front of her and told her to 
step on that, then he threw another in 
stepping distance towards the skiff, and 
she hopped to that and the first one was 
moved ahead. In this way she finally 
reached the skiff and was put aboard the 
launch. 

It was a beautiful trip across the har- 
bor, down by the lighthouse to the point. 

The women of the party were put 
ashore to build the fire while the rest 
went to dig clams, not, however, imtil 
they had gathered the stones and laid 
them ready to be heated by our fire. We 
all went to work gathering drift wood 
and any thing that would burn, and soon 
had a roaring fire, which must be kept 
burning for an hour so the stones would 
be well heated. 

When the hour was up the clammers 
came with their ''Dreener" full of well- 
washed clams just the right size for 
steaming. They had found a few crabs, 
too, which would give us another tooth- 
some morsel. The fire and coals were 



116 



A CAPE COD CLAMBAKE 



17 



now all pushed off the stones and a thin 
layer of seaweed put on, then a layer of 
clams with the crabs, who tried their 
best to walk away, but were persuaded 
to keep quiet by being blocked with the 
sweet potatoes. A little more seaweed 
and the corn was put on, the pail of 
brown bread put where it would get 
warm and the bake was ready to be piled 
high with the dripping seaweed, which 
gives it the flavor desired. An old piece 
of sail was thrown over it to keep the 
steam in and our work was over for half 
an hour. 

There was a fine bed of coals that had 
come off the stones and on that we boiled 
our coff'ee and melted the butter. Now 
they had time to think about it, the clam- 
mers discovered that they were hungry 
and could not wait till the bake was 
ready. As this call for food came at 
every clam bake, we were ready for it 
and brought out thin slices of raw^ ham 
and thick slices of bread and butter. 
The boys put the ham on the end of long 
sticks and cooked it over the coals and, 
when it was done and sizzling, put it be- 
tween the bread and butter ; nothing was 
heard from them until they w^ere ready 
for more. Two or three of these hot 
sandwiches might seem to some people 
to be a meal in themselves, but not at a 
clambake, they are only appetizers. 

When all danger of starvation had 
been averted, we all sat about the bake 



and sniffed the fragrance that comes with 
the little bursts of steam, suggesting all 
the good things under the seaweed. 

An half hour seems a long while to 
wait, so to help the time pass, we hunt 
for big sea clam shells to hold our melted 
butter and, while we are gone, the coffee 
boils over, but then it always does, so 
we have learned to make enough to allow 
for losing some. At last the half hour is 
up and with the usual Ohs ! and Ahs ! 
we unpack the bake. First comes the 
pail with the brown bread well-warmed, 
and then the other good things. Our 
guest was not very skilful in the art of 
dipping a clam in melted butter and get- 
ting it to her mouth, as the spots on her 
dress soon showed, but that did not in- 
terfere with her appetite and she was as 
enthusiastic as we could wish. 

Unlike most picnics there is no clear- 
ing up to be done. \\'e pack what we 
must take home with us and the tide 
comes in and washes away everything un- 
sightly. 

As soon as the tide is right we board 
our launch, . a subdued and over-fed 
party. The day is too pleasant to go 
straight home, so we explore some of 
the creeks at the head of the harbor and 
watch the seals on the bars. 

At last the tide is high and we can land 
easily on our own shore and we go home 
with a feeling of healthy satisfaction of 
a day well spent. 



Fairy Gold 



Why seek the rainbow's end, my little laddie, 
To find the magic pot of treasure rare! 
A weary way you'd wander, I am thinking, 
With very fright'ning things to do and dare. 

\\'hen April comes with laughter and with 

sunshine, 
And songs of brooks, to gladden y.-.\ing- and 

old— 
When dandelions are shining in the iiieadows, 
Sure every child can gather fairy go^l. 



Alix Thorn. 



118 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^lOO per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To OTHER Foreign Countriei 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscripdon, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



Twilight Song 



Out in the bay of Avalon 
The blue waves roll and glisten. 

They quietly, gently, rock our boat, 

I lazily row as we outward float, 
You hum love-songs, and I listen. 

Out on the bay of Avalon, 

Till the end of the sunset's glory, 

We drift together, just you and I, 

Under the changing summer sky. 
As I tell you an old sweet story. 

Out from the village of Avalon 

The sound of the boatmen's calling 
Comes softly, faint as the mellowed light 
That the sunset glow sends back to the night, 
Through the dusk that's already falling. 

Above the hills of Avalon 

A pale moon-boat moves slowly 
O'er her misty course through the starry skies. 
You watch it, but I watch the stars in your 
eyes 

And the love-light there, sweet and holy. 
The night has fallen on Avalon 

When at length we cease our rowing. 
And with moon and stars to shpw the way. 
We homeward go across the bay. 

Our hearts day-bright and glowing. 

Alice West. 



THEORY^ VS PRACTICE 

THEORY is one thing, practice is 
quite another thing. A knowledge 
of Chemistry, Bacteriology or Psycho- 
logy is very desirable and helpful to any 
one, but this knowledge will not directly 
and immediately prepare a dinner. The 
ability to draw on paper the plan of a 
bridge over a river or of a tunnel be- 
neath it indicates rare talent that is in- 
dispensable to industrial progress, but at 
the same time the actual building of 
these structures requires another kind of 
training. 

This is eminently an industrial age. 
Our technical and vocational schools are 
drawing the largest patronage. In all 
parts of the land teachers of domestic 
science are in process of training and the 
demand for these teachers is increasing; 
and yet the call for trained housekeepers 
and cooks is much larger. Compara- 
tively few can aspire to teach and qualify 
therefor; while most women should 
know how to cook, to prepare and serve 
food to satisfy the everyday needs of the 
human body. And this knowledge does 
not come from theory and instruction 
alone, but chiefly from practical experi- 
ence and manipulation. The work itself 
must be done, and a fair degree of skill 
is attained only by a constant repetition 
of the processes. 

Theory is useful, a wide knowledge of 
methods is desirable, but it is the appli- 
cation of these in the various callings of 
life that most concerns the masses of 
mankind. Applied science only can suf- 
fice to satisfy the full needs of modern 
life. The practical application of theo- 
retical and scientific knowledge, already 
approved, is the pressing need in the 
average homes of today. 

WHAT IS EDITING? 

NOWADAYS, when every third per- 
son you meet is an aspirant for lit- 
erary fame, we bear a good deal about 
editing, and the general consensus of 
opinion seems to be that an editor is the 



EDITORIALS 



119 



self-constituted enemy of all people with 
literary proclivities, and editing is the 
brutal process of shearing from manu- 
scripts every mark of individuality and 
merit. 

It is the sure mark of the amateur to 
become enraged at the appearance of 
her first article in print, and to assure 
her friends that all the cleverest speeches 
were cut out, that there have actually 
been words added, and sentence struc- 
ture changed, and that the whole thing 
is so mangled that she is ashamed to 
own it. 

"I should think they would like con- 
tributions with a little individuality in 
them," she storms, evidently supposing 
that magazines are run for the purpose 
of bringing out the individuality of its 
contributors. 

But magazines are not run for these 
purposes. They are run to please or in- 
struct their readers, and the editor, 
whose business it is to know what 
pleases or instructs, uses what he can 
get in the way he deems most expedient. 

It is just as exactly as if you engaged 
a group of men to build your house. If 
you wish it to be your house, and not 
theirs, you dictate to them, not they to 
you. You -make the architect modify 
his plans to suit your needs. You make 
the landscape architect alter his idea; 
you want a formal garden where you 
can serve tea, not an old-fashioned gar- 
den for raising flowers. You use the 
suggestions of the interior decorator in 
so far as they are of assistance to you 
in carrying out the scheme you have in 
mind. 

And it is exactly the same with the 
editor of a magazine. He determines 
upon a certain policy and purpose in his 
paper, and he will use the wares that are 
offered him in so far as they help him 
to carry out this policy and purpose. If 
he allowed himself to be dictated to by 
every contributor, he would have the 
most perfect example of hodge-podge 
that the mind of man can imagine. 

Editing is a profession just like any 



other profession. Many are the consid- 
erations which go into formulating the 
policy of any publication — its financial 
situation, the specific needs of its partic- 
ular class of subscribers, etc. 

There is no art in the world int(3 
which people rush so blithely and with 
so little technical training as into the 
art of writing. The amateur brings his 
wares to market with all the coolness of 
a professional, and is indignant when 
the editor tries to patch it up with a 
professional veneer. 

If you are not willing to be edited do 
not send your material to editors, whose 
business it is to edit. Keep it in manu- 
script form and read it to your friends. 
But if you do send it and do get edited, 
remember that the editor is not your 
enemy, but merely a man who knows his 
business and does it. A. e. 

THE BANE OF WEALTH AND 
TRAVEL 

ALL my life I have wanted money 
as have several other people. But 
I have wanted it not for social prom- 
inence or dress or even for an elegant 
home. To me money has meant just 
three things: a chance to do good, 
freedom from worry, and an opportu- 
nity for travel. 

Yet as life widens, I am coming to 
see that there will always be some wor- 
ries ; that "doing good" is never easy, 
and that even travel has its baneful side. 
The latter has just been forcefully 
taught me by the visit of a friend. 

He is a man of large means and broad 
vision, with a penchant for travel. Of 
course he was a most entertaining guest, 
and seemed to enjoy our thousand and 
one questions ; but entertain him ? — how 
could we? 

When we tried to show him the sights 
of our interesting little city, or the things 
peculiar to the southland that others are 
eager to see, there was no responsive 
kindling of the eyes or impulsive ex- 
clamations. It was as though he had 
seen it a hundred times. Everything 



120 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



was old to him ; even the brand new- 
buds on the trees that shouted "Spring" 
to us; for our traveler had just come 
from Old Mexico, where there are al- 
ways green leaves and the breath of 
summer. 

He meant to be, sincerely tried to be 
appreciative ; and then to hide the failure 
from me. But with a woman's intui- 
tions, I knew it. It was like trying to 
listen with a child's enthusiasm to a vil- 
lage band, after having heard Damrosch 
or Sousa. 

So it flashed over me — "the efifect of 
travel on one's self," a satiety, a lost 
appetite for all except the superlatively 
spiced ! 

Must it be so? Would I be like that, 
could I roam the w^orld as I long to do? 

*'Yes," answered Hard Reason. "It 
is as relentless as the law of cause and 
effect itself." 

Now I do not want to lose my enthus- 
iasms, and I resented my own verdict. 
Turning to a woman friend who travels 
continuously, I cried, "Are you tired of 
seeing things? Are they all old and 
boresome? Do you go now just because 
you have the habit and tire of one place ? 
Has the purple all gone from the 
grapes ?" 

She looked at me with a wistful smile 
and answered slowly: "For towns and 
man-made things, yes. But, never, for 
nature to a nature-lover. You are 
weary of your neighbor's house across 
the way, knowing every line and detail 
of it; but are you tired @f the sunrise, 
the curling smoke, or those pine trees on 
the mountain yonder? There is a pitiful 
sameness about men's wooden nests and 
sky-scraper Babels. 'How many?' 'How 
high?' 'What did it cost?' are all one 
may ask. But to those who go with see- 
ing eyes, who feel a joy in all created 
things, travel still thrills and charms. 
You see it is a question of keeping one's 
soul alive to beauty and beauty's Maker, 
and only such ever get real joy out of 
seeing this world." l. m. c. 



A study of the facts, as presented by 
Prof. Irving Fisher of Yale University, 
will convince any impartial student that 
scientific knowledge of hygiene is far in 
advance of its practical application. 
The knowledge now exists only in the 
minds of specialists, and must be dif- 
fused among the people before it can be 
translated into action. It is a fact that 
those countries which are making the 
greatest progress in reducing the death- 
rate are those in which a spread of the 
knowledge of hygiene is most widely 
dift'used. The country which now leads 
the world in low death-rates, as well as 
rates at w-hich it is improving its mor- 
tality conditions, is Sweden. Sweden 
and the other Scandinavian countries are 
the only ones in which vital statistics 
exist in which it is found that the mor- 
tality has been lowered for every age of 
life. Other countries have made equal 
progress with Sweden in overcoming the 
infectious diseases by means of govern- 
ment regulations, but Sw^eden goes fur- 
ther than this and overcomes the chronic 
diseases by affecting the habits of 
the people themselves by educational 
methods. — Christian Register. 



Nine men out of every ten lay out their 
plans on too vast a scale ; and they who 
are competent to do almost anything, do 
nothing, because they never make up 
their minds distinctly as to what they 
want or what they intend to be — hence 
the mournful failures we see around us 
in every walk of life. — William Mathews. 



Daily theme by a Radcliffe student: 
"Some men are born with an insight into 
the soul feminine, some men marry and 
achieve this insight, and some men cor- 
rect girls' themes and have this insight 
thrust upon them." Admiring comment 
by a Harvard student struggling with 
his own daily : "Gosh ! but it takes a girl 
to write that sort of thing, don't it?" 




CANNING ASPARAGUS WITH PATENT CANNER 

Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Watermelon Cocktail 

CUT cubes of watermelon from 
the center of a chilled ripe melon. 
Sprinkle with powdered sugar 
and ground ginger root. Serve in 
glasses, as a first course at luncheon or 
dinner. Cinnamon is occasionally used 
in place of the ginger. 

Rolled Herring Fillets 

Cut fillets of boneless herring to uni- 
form shape and size. Chop the trim- 
mings fine, pound smooth, add yolks of 
two hard-cooked eggs, tw^o tablespoon- 
fuls of butter and pound again, then 
press through a sieve, season to taste 
with pepper, lemon juice, onion juice, 



chopped parsley, etc. Use this mixture 
to spread the fillets ; roll and dip the 
ends in the w'hites of the eggs, chopped 
fine. Serve as an appetizer at dinner 
or luncheon. 

Consomme jMadrid 

Clarify equal quantities of chicken and 
beef broth. To each quart add three 
small tomatoes, cut in slices. Let sim- 
mer twenty minutes and strain. Serve 
hot or cold. The soup should be of a 
pinkish tint. 

Pottage JNIetternich 

Roast a trussed fowl until w^ell 
browned ; add two quarts of beef broth 
and two sliced tomatoes and let simmer 



121 



122 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



until the fowl is tender. Remove the 
fowl, strain the broth and remove the 
fat. Return the broth to the fire and 
when boiling stir in two or three table- 
spoonfuls of arrowroot, mixed with 



Salmon Salad, with Jellied Mace- 
doine of Vegetables 

For a mold holding one pint take one 
pint of well-seasoned clarified chicken 




WATERMELOxN COCKTAIL 



sherry to a consistency to pour ; when 
again boiling add two tomatoes, cut in 
small cubes, with the seeds pressed out, 
and let simmer ten minutes. Add the 
breast of the chicken, cut in cubes, and 
serve. 

Brook Trout, Biarritz 

Remove the fins and draw by the gills 
half a dozen brook trout, fresh caught 
and of good size. Cut the skin on both 
sides, slantwise, several times. Set the 
fish into an agate or white ware baking 
pan. Beat two tablespoonfuls of butter 
to a cream ; beat in a teaspoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, and one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and pepper. Spread this 
over the trout. Mix one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and pepper with 
one-fourth a cup of white wine and pour 
into the dish ; cover with a buttered pa- 
per and let cook about twenty or twenty- 
five minutes in a moderate oven, basting 
four or five times. Lift the fish on a 
skimmer to a serving dish. Add the liq- 
uid in the pan to a cup of Hollandaise 
sauce, pour this over the fish and serve 
at once. 



broth and one pint of cooked vegetables, 
cut into bits. Use string beans, celery, 
carrot, turnip and peas. Soften one 
tablespoonful of gelatine (one-fourth a 
package) in one-fourth a cup of cold 
water, and dissolve in the hot chicken 
broth ; when cooled somewhat, add the 
prepared vegetables in such proportions 
as is desired or convenient (but use less 
of the turnip than of others) and turn 
into the mold. When ready to serve dip 
the mold in warm water to the top and 
unmold on a chilled dish. Fill the cen- 
ter with flakes of cold, cooked salmon, 
seasoned with French dressing. Serve 
with a bowl of French dressing in which 
a little onion juice has been mixed, and 
with or without lettuce. 

Fillets of Sea Bass, Sauce Tartare 

Remove the skin from a sea bass and 
lift up the fillets from the bone ; cut each 
fillet into three or four slanting pieces. 
Rub over with the cut side of an onion, 
season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, 
dip in an egg, beaten with an equal 
measure of water, then roll in sifted 
bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Drain 
on soft paper. Dispose in a hot dish 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



23 



upon a folded napkin. Decorate with 

parsley and quartered lemons. Serve 

Sauce Tartare or Cold Ravigote Sauce 
in a bowl. 



about two pounds in weight, carefully 
cleaned, into four pieces, each. Heavier 
chickens may be separated at the joints. 
Dip in milk or water, season with salt 




SALMON SALAD, WITH JELLIED MACEDOIXES OF VEGETABLES 



Cold Ravigote Sauce 

Beat the yolk of an egg; add a table- 
spoonful, each, of vinegar and lemon 
juice, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt, pepper and prepared mustard and 
mix thoroughly, then gradually beat in 
one branch of parsely, one of chervil, 
two of chives and one shallot, chopped 
exceedingly fine. 



and paprika, and roll in flour. Fry 
slowly in salt pork or bacon fat, or in 
vegetable oil, until tender and well- 
browned on all sides. Have hot in a 
casserole two cups of tomato sauce and 
one cup and a half of cream, seasoned 
with salt, and a generous measure of 
paprika ; put in the chicken and one cup 
and a fourth of macaroni, cooked tender 
and blanched, cover and let cook in the 




FILLETS OF SEA BASS, BREADED AND FRIED 



Paprika of Chicken oven about fifteen minutes. Serve from 

Separate three young chickens of the casserole. 



124 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Calf's Liv^r, with Fine Herbs 

Cut a calf's liver into slices of the 
same size and shape, roll them in flour, 
mixed with salt and paprika, 4hen let 
cook in hot fat till lightly colored on 
both sides. Remove the liver and keep 
it hot in the warming oven. Slice, fine, 
two mild onions and half a dozen fresh 
mushroom caps, and let cook in the fry- 
ing pan, stirring constantly, until the 
moisture is evaporated, then add two or 
three tablespoonfuls of butter, and when 
melted add three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and stir and cook; add one cup and a 
half of brown stock and stir until boil- 
ing; add a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley and the liver. Reheat without 
boiling. 



dry on a cloth. Pick the leaves from the 
stems and chop them very fine. Add 
one-fourth a cup of boiling water and 
one or two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
cover and let stand half an hour. Add 
the juice of one lemon or four table- 
spoonfuls of cider vinegar and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper and it is ready to serve. 

Green Corn in Cream 

Put six or eight ears of green corn, 
freed of husk "and silk, into a saucepan, 
and pour in half a cup of milk and 
enough boiling water to cover the corn ; 
add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and let 
boil twenty minutes. Cut the kernels 
from the cob. Melt two tablespoonfuls 
of butter; in it cook tw^o tablespoonfuls 




BREAST OF LAMB, ROASTED 



Breast of Lamb, Roasted 

Remove the outer skin from a breast 
of lamb and score, in the direction of 
the rib bones, in pieces for serving. 
Brush over with salt pork on bacon fat 
or choice drippings, and dredge, with 
salt, pepper and flour, on both sides. 
Sear on both sides, then set to cook on 
the bone side first; let cook in all 
about one hour and a half, turning the 
skin side up for the last half of the cook- 
ing. Serve with French fried potatoes 
and mint sauce. 

Mint Sauce 

Wash one bunch of mint, shake and 



of flour, one teaspoonful, each, of salt, 
pepper and grated nutmeg; add one cup 
and a quarter of cream and stir until 
boiling; add the corn and let cook about 
five minutes. 

Peach Roly Poly 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
four level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der and half a teaspoonful of salt; work 
in one-third a cup of shortening. Beat 
the yolk of an egg; add half a cup of 
milk and use to mix the dry ingredients 
to a dough. More milk or water will 
probably be needed. Turn the dough 
onto a floured board and knead slightly, 
to get it into shape, then roll into a rec- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



125 



tangular sheet about one-fourth an inch 
in thickness ; brush over with butter, 
sprinkle with sugar, and cover with 



Spread in well-buttered pan. Push ten 
or more halves of peaches, pared, into 
the top of the dough, sprinkle with dried 




TOASTED CHEESE. W 

pared peaches, sliced ; again sprinkle with 
sugar, and roll as a jelly roll. Cut into 
pieces about two inches long. Set close 
together in a baking pan. Brush with 
the white of the egg (beaten) and dredge 
generously with sugar. Bake about 
twenty-five minutes. Serve with 

Peach Hard Sauce 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then 
the white of an egg, beaten light, and 
half a cup of peach pulp mixed with a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice (to avoid 
discoloring). 



ITH PECAN KERNELS 

currants and dredge generously with 
sugar. Bake about twenty-five minutes. 
Serve for breakfast, with butter, or as 
a dessert dish, with sugar and cream or 
hard sauce. 

Stewed Prunes Stuffed with Xuts 

Wash prunes, then drain and let stand 

overnight in a fresh supply of cold water. 
Let simmer until tender; add a small 
quantity of sugar and let simmer a few 
moments, until the liquid is thickened 
somewhat and is not large in quantity. 
]\Iake a slit on one side of each prune 
and remove the stone ; fill the opening, 




GERMAN PEACH CAKE 



German Peach Cake 

Sift, together, two cups of sifted flour, 
four level teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. \\'ork in 
three or four tablespoonfuls of shorten- 
ing, then add milk to mix to a soft dough. 



thus left, with sliced or chopped nuts. 
Spread a little whipped cream on indi- 
vidual dishes and set three or four 
prunes on the cream ; partially cover with 
more cream and finish with one or two 
prunes stuft'ed with nuts. Serve as a 
dessert dish at dinner or luncheon. 



126 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




CANNING IN PATENT CANNER AND COVERED SAUCEPAN 



Preservation of Fruit 



Value of Fruit in the Dietary 

FRESH and cooked fruits hold an 
unique place in the dietary. Too 
often fruit is considered as sim- 
ply a luxury for occasional rather than 
daily use, but the judicious use of both 
fresh and preserved fruits means better 
health and satisfaction for each member 
of the family. The actual food value of 
the common native fruits, especially 
when eaten uncooked, is not high, but 
the acids in composition are an agreeable 
and wholesome solvent of fibrous com- 
pounds in food; the potash, soda salts 
and other mineral compounds — in which 
fruit abounds — are needed to keep the 
blood pure, while the fibrous portions 
give bulk, and tend to promote a healthy 
condition of the organs of excretion. 

Effects of Cooking Fruit with 
Sugar 

The addition of sugar to cooked fruit 
increases the nutritive value of the fruit, 
while the cooking of the sugar, at a high 
temperature, in conjunction with the 



acid in the fruit, brings about the inver- 
sion of the sugar, which is the first step 
in its digestion. It is for this reason that 
jams and marmalades are thought to be 
one of the most wholesome forms in 
which sugar may be presented in food. 

Preservation of Fruit with Sugar, 
Etc. 

Each fruit has a season at which it is 
at its best and cheapest, then it is that 
the housewife, with an eye to future 
needs, is desirous of storing up a supply 
against a day of scarcity. Fruit is pre- 
served by canning and in the form of 
preserves or jelly. 

Cause of Fruit SpoiHng 

Floating everywhere in the air around 
us are countless microscopic organisms, 
known as bacteria, yeasts and molds, 
that will settle upon fruit (or other food 
substances) and finding in the fruit the 
proper kind of food, under favorable 
conditions of warmth and moisture, will 
feed upon it, and multiply until the whole 
substance is consumed. To preserve 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



127 



fruit, it must be put into a condition in 
which these minute bodies can not at- 
tack it, or, it must be freed from all 
microscopic organisms and put into a 
place where no organisms can reach it. 

Preserves, Conserves, ]Marma- 
lades, Butters, Jellies 

Bacteria, yeasts and germs that attack 
fruit do not thrive and multiply in a 
heavy sugar syrup. Fruit, thus preserved, 
is known as preserves, conserves, marm- 
alades, jams, butters and jellies. In the 
making of these confections from three- 
fourths to a full pound of sugar is al- 
lowed to each pound of fruit. The fin- 
ished product may be stored in sterilized 
glass, earthen jars, or tumblers, and cov- 
ered with paraffin or a paper dipped in 
alcohol or brandy. To whole fruits or 
large portions of fruit, cooked in a heavy 
sugar solution, the name, preserves, is 
given. If the fruit is broken up in small 
bits during the cooking by stirring, a 
marmalade or jam results. The juice of 
the fruit is the only liquid used in these 
latter confections. Apple, peach or 
guava butter is made by first cooking 
the fruit with a little water, then sugar 
is added and the mixture is stirred al- 
most constantly until the cooking is 
completed. Spices are often added to 
butters. 



Jellies 

In the making of fruit jellies, only the 
juice of the fruit is needed. Pectin is 
found in the juice of nearly all ripe 
fruits. Pectin is a carbohydrate prin- 
ciple similar in its properties to starch. 
When equal weights of fruit-juice and 
sj,igar are boiled together for a short 
time, other conditions being right, the 
pectin in the juice causes the mass to be- 
come firm or gelatinized on cooling. 
Pectin is at its best, when the fruit is just 
ripe or shortly before. If the fruit be 
kept too long, so that the juice ferments, 
or if the juice and sugar be overcooked, 
the pectin loses its gelatinizing property. 
Then, to make a success of jelly-making, 
the fruit should be fresh-gathered, ripe 
or a little underripe, and the boiling of 
the juice and sugar should not be con- 
tinued too long. The quantity of sugar 
in composition in fruit that has ripened 
in bright, sunshiny weather is larger, 
proportionately, than when the season 
has been cold and wet. Thus a scant 
measure of sugar should be taken in one 
case, and a generous measure, in the 
other. Juicy fruits, as currants and ber- 
ries, should not be gathered just after a 
rain, for all the excess of water absorbed 
must be removed by boiling before the 
juice will jelly. If it be necessary to 




PANNING IN OPEN KETTLE 



128 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



wash such fruit before use, the work 
must be done quickly and carefully. 

Large, firm fruits, as apples, quinces 
and plums must be cooked in water, un- 
til soft. The skin, seeds and stones give 
color and flavor to the jelly and should 
not be removed before cooking. The 
liquid strained from the fruit will con- 
tain the pectin and the flavoring found 
in the fruit. A bag made of doubled 
cheese cloth or coarse cotton cloth an- 
swers for jelly-making. Often bags of 
flannel or felt are recommended ; these 
are expensive, shrink when washed and 
give no clearer jelly than can be secured 
by allowing the juice to drip through the 
cheaper bag. Juice secured by squeezing 
the bag makes a good-tasting jelly, but 
it is often somewhat cloudy. 

Crystallized Fruits 

Pineapples, apricots, pears, cherries 
and oranges, grape fruit and lemon peel 
are usually selected for crystallization. 
In general, the fruit is cooked in a rich 
syrup and let cool in the syrup, repeat- 
edly, or on each day for a week or 
longer, until it is thoroughly saturated 
with syrup ; it is then dried, or rolled in 
sugar, and stored in tight-closed recep- 
tacles. 

Canned Fruits 

In the processes of preserving fruits 
of which we have spoken, the preserva- 



tion has been secured by the use of a 
thick sugar syrup in which bacteria, 
yeasts, etc., could not readily grow. As 
a rule, most kinds of minute organisms 
that attack fruit are destroyed, if the 
fruit be exposed ten or fifteen minutes 
to the temperature of boiling water, 
212° F. Such fruit is said to have been 
sterilized. If all the utensils with which 
the fruit comes in contact be also ster- 
ilized and the container be so sealed as 
to exclude all organisms from the out- 
side, fruit may be kept, with but slight 
change of texture or flavor, for a year 
or longer. This process is known as 
canning. 

Sugar is not a necessity in the canning 
of fruit or fruit juice, but the amount 
palatable to those who put it up is often 
added when the fruit is to be used as a 
compote. If the fruit is to be used in 
pies or puddings, the dish will have a 
fresher flavor, if the sugar be added at 
the time of the last cooking. 

Fruit juices for sherbet, punch and 
jelly making, should be canned without 
sugar. If sugar be used, a syrup gauge 
is quite necessary, for too sweet a mix- 
ture will not freeze. When a sherbet is 
to be made, boil the sugar and water to 
the proper density and let cool ; add the 
quantity of fruit juice called for and the 
mixture is ready to freeze. Also canned 
fruit juice, with an equal measure of 
sugar, after boiling the requisite time. 




JELLY AL^KING 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



129 



may be poured into sterile glasses as 
jelly. By simply canning the juice when 
the fresh fruit is available, the work 
over a hot stove is cut down in hot 
weather and carried along to a period 
when one may select a propitious time 
for completing the enterprise; this, also, 
makes fresh-made jelly a possibility at 
;iiiy tim.e. 

Utensils for Preserving Fruit 

In all cooking of fruit, avoid tin or 
metal utensils. Fruit acids attack metals 
and occasion a disagreeable and un- 
wholesome flavor and a dull, off-color in 
the finished product. White-lined uten- 
sils, neatly cared for, are desirable. 
Saucepans should be broad rather than 
deep, as weight of fruit will crush that 
below. When canning, cook the fruit in 
the jars whenever possible — by this 
means the breaking of fruit by handling 
is avoided and also the flavor is the bet- 
ter retained. The filled jars may stand 
during cooking in a ''canner", where the 
cooking is done under a considerable 
pressure of steam, and thus more 
quickly ; in a steam cooker, under a less 
pressure of steam, or in an ordinary 
clothes boiler (new one) or similar ves- 
sel fitted with a wooden rack, to keep 
the jars from contact with the bottom of 
the vessel. Scales, measuring cups, jelly 
bag, wooden spoons, a wooden pestle, a 
colander of agate or similar ware, 
earthen bowls, a large-mouthed funnel, 
silver plated knives and forks, a skim- 
mer, a ladle, a pitcher w-ith long, narrow- 
pointed lip, a. new sieve, and two or 
three pans are among the principal uten- 
sils used in putting up fruit. Glass jars, 
fitted with covers and 7iew rubber rings 
are used for canning; these jars may be 
found in sizes from a half-pint to two 
quarts. Tumblers are supplied for jelly, 
marmalade and jam. Preserves may be 
kept in glass or earthen jars. 

Selection and Preparation of the 
Fruit 

Fruit for preserving in any form 



should be fresh-picked, or gathered, and 
slightly underripe. Such fruit insures 
more perfect shape in the finished pro- 
duct and eliminates the possibility of 
fermented fruit or the loss of pectin or 
jelly-making property. 

Handle soft fruit (peaches, berries, 
etc.) as little as possible. If it is to be 
canned in jars, put it into the jars, at 
once, on hulling or otherwise preparing 
it. 

If berries must be washed, put them, 
a few at a time, into a colander, pour 
cold water over them and turn at once 
upon a large sieve to drain, then hull. 

Large hard fruit, as apples, pears and 
quinces, should be washed and wiped 
dry before paring. 

Cut apples and other hard fruit, for 
jelly, into quarters, removing all wormy 
places or imperfections. Retain the skin 
and cores. The cores of quinces should 
be discarded, as the excess of gummy 
properties does not improve jelly. 

Use a silver-plated knife to pare fruit. 
Peaches, soft pears, plums and tomatoes, 
set into a wire basket (frying basket) 
may be plunged into a saucepan of boil- 
ing water; after three or four minutes 
remove to a kettle of cold water for the 
same time, when the fruit may be quick- 
ly and easily peeled. This method of 
peeling is admissable when a large quan- 
tity of fruit is to be put up, but it is 
thought to detract somewhat from the 
flavor. 

General Rule for Preserves 

W^eigh the prepared fruit ; take an 
equal weight of sugar. If the fruit be 
soft, put a layer in a saucepan and 
sprinkle on sugar; add another layer of 
fruit and another layer of sugar. Let 
heat gradually to the boiling point, boil 
about ten minutes, skim and store in 
small glasses. If the fruit be firm, boil 
in water barely to cover until tender; 
skim out the fruit, add the sugar to the 
liquid, boil ten minutes, skim, add the 
fruit and let cook, from ten minutes to 
half an hour. If a thicker syrup be 



130 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



desired, cook twenty minutes before 
adding the fruit, or cook longer after 
removing the fruit to jars. 

General Rule for Canning 

Fruit is cooked in the jars in which it 
is to be stored or in an open kettle. 
Sterilize the jars, covers, spoons and 
funnel by putting them over the fire in 
cold water to cover and letting the water 
gradually heat to the boiling point. The 
jars must stand, meanwhile, on several 
folds of cloth or paper. Have a pan on 
the stove with folded cloth and about 
an inch of boiling water. Pour the boil- 
ing water from a jar, set it into the pan 
on the cloth and immediately fill to over- 
flow with the hot fruit, adjust the rub- 
ber and cover (taking the cover from 
the boiling water) and the work is done. 
About one cup of sugar is used with 
enough fruit to fill a quart jar. In a 
canner or steam cooker, fill the jars with 
the prepared fruit, set them on a folded 
cloth on a rack over cold water, put the 
covers in beside the jars, cover the re- 
ceptacle and let heat gradually to the 
boiHng point; let cook about five min- 
utes after the water boils. Have ready 
a syrup made in the proportion of a cup, 
each, of sugar and water; use this to fill 
the jars to overflow, adjust the rubbers 
and covers and let cook about five 
minutes longer. When there is room to 
cook three jars at a time, the contents of 
the third jar may be used to fill the other 
two. Less syrup will then be required. 
The jars must not come in contact dur- 
ing cooking. 

General Rule for Jelly Making 

Put soft fruit into a saucepan, crush 
with a pestle and let heat slowly. When 
hot throughout turn into a cheese-cloth 
bag and let drain. After a time press 
out as much juice as possible for a sec- 
ond quality of jelly. For each cup of 
juice, take a cup of sugar. Stir until 



the sugar is dissolved, then let boil and 
skim until a little, when tested, will jelly 
slightly on a cold plate. Turn into 
tumblers, set on a cloth in a shallow pan 
of boiling water. Remove to a safe 
place, and cover with glass or a towel 
and, later. on, with paper wet in brandy. 
Boil the jelly in small quantities. 

Peach Preserves 

Boil two pounds of sugar and a pint 
of water five minutes after boiling be- 
gins and skim carefully ; add two pounds 
of peaches, cut in halves, and then 
pared; let cook until tender (no longer) ; 
skim out upon plates and drain ofif the 
juice into the syrup as fast as it appears. 
Boil the syrup about twenty minutes, 
skimming as needed. Return the 
peaches to the syrup ; let boil up once, 
then store in jars. Crack a few stones 
and cook the meats with the peaches. 

Canned Pears 

Cut a dozen Bartlett pears in halves, 
leaving the stem on one half, pare and 
remove the cores. Alake a syrup of one 
cup and a half, each, of sugar and water 
and the juice of one lemon; skim, put in 
the pears and cook ten minutes, after 
boiling begins. With a silver fork drop 
the pears into a sterilized quart jar, set 
on a cloth in a pan of water, pour in 
syrup to fill the jar to overflow, adjust 
the rubber and the sterilized cover and 
tighten the jar. 

Currant Jelly with Variations 
from General Rule 

Secure the juice according to the di- 
rections previously given. Take a cup 
of sugar for each cup of juice; let the 
juice boil twenty minutes, skimming 
often. Add the sugar, made hot on 
agate plates in the oven ; let boil once 
and finish as usual. A few unripe cur- 
rants are not detrimental. 



Suggestions for Menus in August 

(Hotels with 60 Guests) 



SUNDAY 
Breakfast 



Choice of 



Choice of 
Choice of 



New 



Cooked Cereal 

Ready to eat Cereal 

Berries Bananas 

Corned Beef Hash 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 

Choice of : Eggs Poached, Cooked in shell, 

Scrambled, Omelet 

Pop-overs, Corn ^leal Muffins, Toast 

Coffe Tea Cocoa 

Dinner (one o'clock) 

Choice of : Consomme Printanier 

Cream of Lettuce 

Choice of : Boiled Cod, Egg Sauce, French 

Potato Balls 

Baked Spanish Mackerel, Italian Sauce 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Choice of : Chickens Wings, Princess 

Pigeons Stewed, with Olives 

Roast Loin of Veal, Bread Stuffing 

Sweet Pickles 

Roast Beef, Brown Sauce 

Choice of : Mashed Potatoes or 

Potatoes 

Stringless Beans or Peas 

Spinach, with Egg or Lettuce, French 

Dressing 

Choice of : Vanilla Ice Cream, Raspberry 

Sauce, Apricot Ice 

Blueberry Pie, Cream Cheese 

Apple Pie, Cheese 

Coffee or Tea 



Supper 

Black Bean Soup 
Cold Meat, Sliced Thin 
Potato Salad 
Eggs Cooked to Order 

Cake 

Canned Fruit or Berries 

Tea Coffee 



MONDAY 

Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 

Choice of : Berries, Apples, Bananas 

Choice of: Broiled Tripe 

Hamburg Steak 
Bacon, with Fried Eggs 
Baking Powder Biscuit, Corn Meal Break- 
fast Cake 
Dry Toast Cream Toast 
Coffe Tea Cocoa 

Luncheon 
Broth, with Tapioca 



Choice of: Chicken Giblet Pie, Biscuit 

Crust 

Veal Rechaufu with Curried Rice 

Mexican Rabbit with Poached Egg 

Choice of : New Beets, Summer Squash, 

Stringless Beans 
Bluefish Stuffed and Baked. Italian Sauce 
Choice of: Sliced Tomatoes. French or 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Cabbage, French or Mayonnaise Dressing 

Choice of : Raspberry Ice Cream 

Cottage Pudding, Raspberry Hard Sauce 

Apple Pie, Cheese 

Coffee Tea 

Dinner 

Choice of : Tomato and Chicken Bouillon 

Cream of Corn Soup 
Choice of: Fillets of Fish, fried. Sauce 

Tartare 

Turbans of Fish, baked, Bechamel Sauce 

Choice of : Fried Chicken,. Sweet Pickled 

Melon Rind 
Beef Steak en Casserole (with vegetables) 
Roast Leg of Lamb, Mint Sauce, Banana 

Fritters 
Choice of : Franconia Potatoes, Mashed 

Potatoes 
Choice of : Cauliflower, Summer Squash, 

Green Peas, Green Corn 
Choice of: Cucumbers or Tomatoes, 

French Dressing 
Choice of : Sliced Peaches with Cream, 

Peach Ice Cream 

Peach Cobbler, Charlotte Russe and Wine 

Jelly 

Coffee Tea 



TUESDAY 

Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 
Choice of : Melons, Peaches, Berries 
Choice of : Creamed Salt Codfish 
Creamed Dried Beef 
Hamburg Steak 
Choice of : Poached Eggs 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 
Eggs en Cocotte 
Omelet 
Choice of : Baked Potatoes 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 

French Fried Potatoes 

Rye Meal Muffins, Parker House Rolls 

Cinnamon Buns 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Choice of : Mock Bisque Soup 

Beef Broth with Macaroni 



131 



Suggestions for Menus in August. — Continued 



Choice of : Chicken and Veal Croquettes, 

Peas with Carrot Slices 

Cold Boiled Ham, String Bean Salad 

Kidney Omelet, Sliced Tomatoes 

Choice of: Rice Bavarian Cream with 

Stewed Prunes 

Baba, Rum Sauce 

Apple Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream 

Tea Cofifee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Choice of : Onion Soup 

Emergency Soup 
Choice of : Boiled Salmon, Pickle Sauce 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Choice of: Leg of Lamb, Boiled, Caper 

Sauce 

Ham, Baked in Crust, Madeira Sauce 

Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce 

Choice of : Mashed Potatoes 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Choice of : Green Corn Custard 

Buttered Beets 

Stuffed Tomatoes 

Choice of : Baked Alaska 

Apples Baked with Tapioca, Vanilla Ice 

Cream 

Peach Sherbet 

Coffee Cocoa Tea 



WEDNESDAY 
Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 

Choice of : Berries, Baked Apples, Plums 

Choice of: Hashed Lamb with Eggs en 

Cocotte 

Broiled Bacon with Eggs to order 

Hamburg Steak 

Choice of : Lyonnaise Potatoes 

Creamed Potatoes 

Baked Potatoes 

Rice Griddle Cakes Graham Rolls 

Deughnuts 

Coffe Tea Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Fresh Fish or Corn Chowder 

Choice of : Cold Baked Ham, Potato Salad 

Hot Ham Timbales, Tomato Sauce or Peas 

Rechaufu of Lamb, Creole, with Rice 

Lamb Chops, Maintmou 

Choice of : Lettuce and Egg, Mayonnaise 

Lettuce and Tomato, Mayonnaise 

Succotash 

Beet Greens 

Choice of : Chocolate ficlairs 

Raspberry Shortcake 

Blueberry Pie 
Coffe Tea Cocoa 

Dinner 

Choice of : Lamb and Tomato Soup 

Cream of Potato Soup 

Choice of : Salmon Croquettes, Green Peas 

Sword Fish, Broiled, Cucumber Salad 



Choice of: Roast Chicken, Cranberry 
Sauce 
Ribs of Beef, Roasted, Brown Sauce 
Choice of: Mashed Potato, Browned 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Choice of : Cauliflower, Cream Sauce 

Egg Plant, Fried 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Stringless Beans, Buttered 

Lettuce and Celery, French Dressing 

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 

Lettuce and Mustard, French Dressing 

Choice of: Custard Souffle, Frothy Sauce 

Queen of Puddings with Jelly and 

Meringue 

Grape Juice Sherbei 

Milk Sherbet (Lemon) 

Coffe Tea 



THURSDAY 

Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 
Choice of : Baked Apples 
Melons 
Sliced Peaches 
Choice of : Hot Roast Beef Sandwich 
Tripe, Lyonnaise Style 
Corned Beef Hash 
Choice of : Eggs Scrambled with Ham 
Poached in Milk 
Green Pea Omelet 
Cooked in Shell 
Choice of : Baked Potatoes 
Choice of : White Hashed Potatoes 
Dry Toast Boston Brown Bread (re- 
heated) Baking Powder Biscuit 
Coffe Tea Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Choice of: Cream of Corn Soup, St Ger- 
main Chicken Soup with Rice 
Choice of : Chicken Salad 

Hot Boiled or Braised Tongue 

Round Steak en Casserole 

Choice of : Corn on the Cob 

Stuffed Peppers 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Stringless Beans 

Choice of : Blackberry Roly Poly (baked) 

Blackberry Sauce 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, Wine Sauce 

Peach Sherbet 

Tea Coffee 



Dinner 

Beef Broth with Macaroni 

Choice of: Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce 

Fillets of Fish Baked with Dressing, 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Choice of : Boiled Shoulder of Lamb, 

Caper Sauce 

Round of Beef, Braised, Brown Sauce 

Chicken en Casserole 



139 



Suggestions for Menus in August. — Continued 



Choice of: Boiled Onions 

Stewed Cabbage 
Turnips 
Choice of : Mashed Potatoes 

Plain Boiled Potatoes 
Choice of: Celery Salad 

Tomato Salad 
Choice of: Cafe Parfait 

Vanilla Ice Cream 
Coffe Tea 



FRIDAY 

Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 
Choice of : Melons, Berries, Baked Apples 
Choice of : Salt Codfish .Balls 
Fried Panfish 
Beef Tenderloin, Broiled 
Choice of : Plain Omelet 

Omelet with Green Herbs 

Mushroom Omelet 

Scrambled Eggs 

Eggs in Shell 

Choice of : Mashed Potato Cakes, Fried 

Baked Potatoes 

Lyonnaise Potatoes 

Corn Meal Muffins Parker House Rolls 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes 
Choice of: Coffe Tea Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Choice of : Cream of Corn Soup 

Consomme with Peas 

Choice of : Cold Veal Loaf, with Sdad 

Giblet Pie, Biscuit Crust 

Fricassee of Veal 

Shepherds Pie 

Choice of : Mashed Potatoes 

Macaroni a la Milanaise 
Curried Rice 
Choice of : Potato Salad 

Andalouse Salad 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes 

Choice of : Blancmange with Soft Custard 

Custard Reuversee 

Prune Jelly, Whipped Cream 

Coffee Tea Cocoa 



Dinner 

Choice of : Golden Veal Broth 

Cream of String Bean Soup 
Choice of: Scalloped Clams 

Planked White Fish 

Cabbage Salad 

Choice of: Boiled Fowl, Allemand Sauce 

Boned Breast of Veal, Stuffed, Poeled 

Cold Round of Beef Pie, Potato Biscuit 

Crust 

Choice of: Onions Stuffed with Nuts, 

Cream Sauce 

Buttered Beets 

Squash 

Corn 



Choice of : Mashed Potatoes 

Whole Potatoes Boiled in Fat 
Choice of: Waldorf Salad 

Tomato Salad 

Choice of: Junket Ice Cream (Vanilla) 

Frozen Custard 

Lemon Sherbet 

Hot Apple Pie, Cheese 

Choice of : Coffee Tea 



SATURDAY 
Breakfast 

Choice of : Two Cereals 
Choice of: Berries 

Stewed Prunes 

Orange Marmalade 

Choice of : Sardines on Toast, Creamed 

Veal-Potato and Green Pepper Hash 

French Hash 

Choice of: Shirred Eggs 

Puffy Omelet 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Choice of: Creamed Potatoes 

Fried Potatoes 

Spider Corn Cake Yeast Biscuit 

Cream Toast 

Choice of : Coffee Tea Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Choice of : Irish Stew 

Boston Baked Beans 

Cheese Pudding 

Tomato Rabbit with Poached Egg 

Cold Boiled Tongue 

Choice of : Stuffed Tomatoes 

Macedoine of Vegetable Salad 

Scalloped Cabbage 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Choice of : Berry Pie, Cheese 

German Apple Cake, Cream or Hard Sauce 

Coffee Jelly, Wliipped Cream 
Choice of : Tea Coffee Grape-Juice- 
Lemonade 

Dinner 

Choice of : Chicken Soup with Rice 
Consomme with Macaroni Rings and Peas 
Choice of : Olives or Celery 

Fresh Fish Creamed in Scallop Shells 
Lobster Newburg 
Choice of : Veal Pot Pie, Dumplings 
Lamb Chops (neck) en Casserole 
Roast Fillet of Beef, Mushroom Sauce 
Choice of : Scalloped Tomatoes and 
Onions 
Stuffed Peppers 
Lima Beans, Buttered 
Corn Custard, Mexican Style 
Choice of : Lettuce Salad 

Cold Cauliflower Salad 
Tomato Salad 
Waldorf Salad 
Choice of: Squash Pie Steamed Blue- 
berry Pudding, Wine Sauce 
Coffe Ice Cream 
Tea Coffee 



133 



Economical Menus for a Week in September 

"The well-informed housewife will find no great difficulty in selecting a combination of 
foods that is nutritively efficient and at the same time simple and economical." — Jordan. 



Breakfast 

Watermelon 

Broiled Bacon 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Breast of Lamb, Roasted 

Mint Sauce 

Potatoes Cooked with the Meat 

Boiled Corn Tomatoes Sliced 

Peach Apple Cake, Sugar, Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Tomato Toast Cookies 

Stuffed Prunes with Cream 

Tea 



etc.) 



Breakfast 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Creamed Potatoes 

Corn-Meal Griddle Cakes 

Dry Toast Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Potato Soup 

Stuffed Tomatoes (ham crumbs 

Mashed Turnips 

Chocolate ficlairs 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

String Bean Salad, 

French Dressing with Onion Juice 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Cream Cheese Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Dried Beef 

Baked Potatoes 

Cinnamon Buns 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Potatoes, Hungarian Style (May mag.) 

String Beans Pickled Beets 

Apple Dumpling 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Green Corn Cooked in Cream 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Blackberries Gingerbread 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Salt Codfish 

Baked Potatoes (small) 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded, Tomato Sauce 

Lettuce, Peanut-Butter Salad-Dressing 

Rice Pudding, with Meringue 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Mexican Rabbit 

Hot Baked Apples 

Bread and Butter 

Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Lamb's Liver and Bacon 

French Fried Potatoes 

Parker House Rolls 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Breaded, Fried 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Summer Squash 

Cookies with Lemon Sherbet or Lemon Pie 

Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans, Buttered 

Graham Muffins 

Sliced Peaches 

Sponge Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Sardines on Toast 

White Mountain Muffins 

Blackberries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Sword Fish, Broiled, 
Maitre d'Hotel Butter 
Mashed Potatoes 
Cauliflower 
Grape Juice Syllabub 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 
Crab Meat, Deviled 

Potato Salad 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Crab Apples 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Scrambled Eggs, with Ham 

Mashed Potato (lakes. Baked 

Dutch Apple Cake, Butter, Sugar 

Cocoa Coffee 



Dinner 

Broiled Ham 

Baked Potatoes 

Green Corn Custard 

Sliced Tomatoes 



Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream 



Supper 

Stewed Shelled Beans 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Berries 

Gingerbread 

Tea 



134 











Lessons in Elementary Cooking 



By ]Mary Chandler Jones 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

LESSOX XXII 

Combinations of Starchy and Albuminous Materials 



IN the last lesson (XXI) we made a 
beginning of a little study of the 
way in which starchy and albumi- 
nous foods must be combined, when the 
preparation of cream cakes and their 
filling was discussed. A short consid- 
eration of the cooking temperature of 
each of these classes of food will show 
the necessity for combining them in this 
way. Recall the cooking of potatoes, 
rice, maccaroni, cornstarch and so on, 
and remember the effect of using water 
which was not quite boiling. Is a starchy 
substance either palatable or digestible if 
cooked below the boihng point? On the 
other hand, if any food containing al- 
bumin be actually boiled or cooked at 
any high temperature, what happens to 
it? (Review^ the egg in its different 
preparations, the scalding vs. the boihng 
of milk, the cooking of meat and fish.) 
Over-cooking, then, destroys the pala- 
tabiHty and digestibility of albuminous 
foods. How is it possible to put these 
two together in the same dish without 
either over-cooking the albumin or leav- 
ing the starch insufificiently cooked ? Let 
the pupils see that if the starch be thor- 
oughly cooked at the higher temperature, 
until the starchy taste is gone, then the 
albuminous substance (usually egg) may 
be added and cooked at the comparatively 
low heat needed for its best flavor and 
consistency. 

In the case of cake, muffins and other 
baked mixtures, it is not possible to give 



different cooking temperatures to the 
different ingredients. In these we con- 
sider chiefly the cooking of the starchy 
materials present and the expansion of 
the gas. The tgg and milk are relatively 
small in proportion and so may be ig- 
nored. The indigestibility of cake, etc., 
for children and invalids, is caused, at 
least in part, by this combination and the 
impossibility of proper cooking for each 
ingredient. In the case of many sauces, 
also, where flour or cornstarch must be 
boiled, the digestibility and best flavor of 
the milk are sacrificed to the necessity 
for cooking the starch at the higher tem- 
perature. 

Many puddings depend upon the com- 
bination of starch and albumin in their 
preparation. They are, in reality, forms 
of custard, with the starchy material 
added to the milk before the tgg and 
milk are blended. Refer to the bread 
pudding in Lesson XVIII. What has 
been previously done to the bread which 
makes it unnecessary to do more than 
soak it in the hot milk? Is there any 
need for further consideration of the 
bread in cooking the pudding in the 
oven? What should the oven heat be? 
What will be the effect of too great heat? 

Tapioca, in its combination with egg, 
is a good article to use in the illustration 
of the different temperatures in cooking. 
Test the tapioca with iodine solution. 
Let the pupils report upon its place of 
growth, the part of the plant used and 



135 



136 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



speck of salt 
whites of 2 eggs 
i a teaspoonful of 
flavoring 



the methods of manufacture. How 
many sizes are there? Why must the 
pearl or flake tapioca be soaked while 
the others require no soaking? 

Tapioca Custard Pudding 

li tablespoonfuls of 

minute tapioca 
1 pint of milk 
yolks of 2 eggs 
i a cup of sugar 

Wash and pick over the tapioca. 
Scald the milk, and while it is scalding, 
add the tapioca. Cook these until the 
tapioca is transparent. (The water un- 
der the double boiler must be kept boil- 
ing and this, while not absolutely keep- 
ing the tapioca at the boiling point, 
would over-cook the egg and cause curd- 
ling, if the egg were present.) Beat the 
yolks of the eggs slightly, as for custard, 
and add the salt and sugar. Pour the 
milk and cooked tapioca over the egg 
yolks and return to the double boiler. 
Cook, with constant stirring, over water 
that is just below the boiling point, until 
the custard is creamy and thick, but not 
lumpy. Remove from the heat, and add 
the flavoring. Beat the white of egg 
very stiff and dry and, when the custard 
has partly cooled, beat it into the cus- 
tard. Chill and serve. This may be 
flavored with caramel and served with 
caramel sauce, like a caramel custard. 
It may also be baked, in a very moderate 
oven, in a buttered baking dish. 

Cornstarch Fruit Pudding 

cornstarch 



su.car to sweeten the 

fruit 
2 whites of eggs 



1 cup of water 
■h a teaspoonful of 

salt 
1 cup of fruit juice 
3 tablespoonfuls of 

Boil the water and fruit juice together 
and sweeten with the necessary sugar. 
Mix the cornstarch with enough cold 
water to make a smooth paste, then 
dilute it with the boiling syrup and cook 
until it is free from all taste of raw 
starch. Beat the whites of egg until 
they are stiff and dry. Remove the 
starchy mixture from the heat and let it 
cool a little, then beat into it the stiff 
white of egg. Beat well and pour into 



cold, wet molds. Chill and serve with 
a custard made from the yolks of the 
eggs. 

Oatmeal Pudding 



1 cup of milk 
I a teaspoonful of 
spice 



H cups of cooked 

oatmeal 
1 or 2 eggs 
i a cup of sugar 

Cook the fresh oatmeal, or use what 
is "left over" from some former cook- 
ing. Beat the egg slightly ; add to it the 
sugar and spice and the milk. Stir it 
into the oatmeal and pour it into a but- 
tered baking dish. Let it bake slowly 
for 30 minutes. Serve with milk or 
cream and sugar, or with a pudding 
sauce. 

Eggs in White Sauce 

1 cup of white sauce I 4 slices of toast 
3 hard-cooked eggs | 

Cook the eggs in water just below the 
boiling point for thirty or thirty-five 
minutes. Prepare the white sauce and 
toast while the eggs are being cooked. 
When the eggs are done, plunge them 
into cold water and, at once, remove the 
shells and thin white skin. Cut them in 
halves and separate the white and yolk. 
Chop the whites into small pieces and 
press the yolks through a coarse strainer, 
with a wooden spoon. Stir the chopped 
vv^hites into the white sauce, reheat, if 
necessary, and pour over the toast. 
Sprinkle with the powdered yolk and 
garnish with clean, dry bits of parsley. 

This is a very good dish to be used as 
a review. Let the pupils see that the 
sauce and egg, though combined in this 
case after cooking, are cooked at their 
proper temperatures and that, in reheat- 
ing, too much heat would toughen the 
white of egg. The yolk, in an egg which 
has been properly cooked, is dry and 
powdery, while the white is stiff and 
jelly-like, but not tough. 

W^hat care must be taken in reheating 
fish or meat in white sauce or in a gravy ? 
In scalloped dishes, which must be nearer 
the heat, the starchy or the albuminous 
food? Why? 



LESSONS IN ELEMENTARY COOKING 



137 



It is readily seen that dishes which 
combine several food principles may 
easily be less digestible, even with the 
greatest care in their preparation, than 
simpler ones involving but one or two. 



Invalids and children must often avoid 
such combinations altogether, and it 
would, perhaps, be well, if they were less 
frequent on all tables than is at present 
the case. 



A First- Aid Outfit For The Summer Camp 

By Mary H. Tufts 

' Trained Nurse 

"Early and provident fear is the mother of safety." 



THE prospective camper or cot- 
tager usually dislikes to asso- 
ciate the idea of any accident or 
illness with the plans for his vacation; 
but inasmuch as many of the Camps are 
somewhat remote from a Doctor, and 
accidents and acute illnesses "wait for 
no man", it is not safe or wise to go 
camping without a suitable First-Aid 
Outfit. 

Having had considerable experience 
in catering to the needs of persons who 
were ill in camps somewhat remote from 
a physician, I have formulated the plan 
for the outfit which I describe, based on 
the needs which I have met. 

At first consideration, it may seem 
that the outfit is needlessly large; but 
only such articles and drugs have been 
included, as may at any time be urgently 
called for; and, once needed, will be 
worth their weight in gold. 

A suitcase, or a light-weight pine box 
that will lock securely, is suitable re- 
ceptacle for the outfit. This should be 
kept locked, and the key hung up out of 
reach of any children who may be in 
camp. This precaution may save fatal 
accidents from poisoning. But, every 
adult in camp, should know exactly 
where the key is kept, so that no delay 
may occur in getting the needed supplies 
in case of emergencies. 

On the inside of the cover of the box, 
or case containing the outfit, should be 



pasted a list of the contents of the box. 
Also a list of antidotes for all the poi- 
sons contained in the outfit. 

Some comprehensive book on first-aid 
should also be included. The book, 
''Accidents and Emergencies", by C. W. 
Dulles, or "Johnson's First Aid Man- 
ual," are both comprehensive and com- 
plete. 

As containers of all poison drugs, it 
is wise to select blue-glass bottles having 
serrated corners. In this way a mistake 
is well-nigh impossible, if ordinary cau- 
tion is used. 

Each package and bottle should have 
a securely affixed label, bearing the 
name of the drug, and the dosage for 
both children and adults. And in addi- 
tion, all poisons should bear two printed 
poison-labels ; these may be bought at 
the drug-store for a few cents by the 
dozen. 

Persons taken ill in camp should, of 
course, consult a Doctor at their earliest 
convenience, unless they are sure that 
the illness is transitory. The habit of 
promiscuous drugging is in no way rec- 
ommended in the use of this emergency- 
outfit. It is as its name implies, an 
EMERGENCY Aid. 

The articles and drugs which I have 
found most practical and useful for such 
an outfit, are as follows: — 

1 good-sized bundle of clean, old pieces of 
bleached cloth; 3 or 4 large-sized pieces of 



m 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



white wool-flannel for fomentation-cloths ; a 
5-yard package of surgeons' plain absorbent- 
gauze for dressing wounds; 1 pound of ab- 
sorbent-cotton ; 1 roll of 2-inch wide surgeons' 
adhesive plaster; 1 yard of oiled-niusiin ; 2 
rolls of the "ideal" elastic-weave bandage ; a 
new nail-brush ; 2 dozen medium-sized safety 
pins; 1 pair of shears or scissors; 2 three- 
quart agate basins ; 4 yard-square pieces o£ 
heavy, bleached sheeting to use as slings or 
in adjusting splints; 3 yards of rubber tubing 
for use as a Tourniquet; a fountain-syringe; 
hot-water bottle ; medicine-dropper ; teaspoon ; 
glass graduate for measuring medicines ; clin- 
ical thermometer; 1 can of antiphlogistine ; 2 
ounces of either compound ichthyol, resinoU 
or unguentine ointment ; 2 pounds epsom 
salts ; 6 ounces castor oil ; 1 box seidlitz pow- 
ders ; 4 ounces of the aromatic spirits of am- 
monia ; 4 ounces best brandy ; 8 ounces 95% 
alcohol ; 4 ounces chemically-pure glycerin ; 1 
package of borax ; 1 pound baking-soda ; 1 
package of ground ginger ; 4 ounces pare- 
goric ; 2 dozen 1-grain codeine tablets; 100 of 
Mulford's "cold preferred" tablets ; 1 box of 
mustard; 6 ounces of a mixture made up o£ 
1 part of spirits of turpentine, to 8 parts of 
either olive or cocoanut-oil (have the drug- 
gist mix this) ; 25 bichloride of mercury tab- 
lets for making antiseptic-solution for 
wounds ; 1 bottle of peroxide of hydrongen ; 
6 ounces of tincture of iodine, with small 
brush for applying it; a large-sized jar of 
malted milk, which will be especially useful, 
if there are sick children in camp. 

Wounds, sprains, stings and bites of 
insects, bruises, blisters, colds, head- 
aches, poisoning from ivy or other irri- 
tating plants, heat-prostrations, acute 
rheumatism and neuralgia, indigestion. 
and occasionally diarrhoea, constitute 
the more common ailments occurring 
during camp-life. 

No doubt some of these troubles ac- 
crue as a result of over-exertion or ex- 
posure. Many persons thoughtlessly 
indulge in all sorts of strenuous "stunts" 
when on a vacation, regardless of the 
fact that they may be wholly unprepared, 
muscularly, for any such violent exer- 
cise. Long walks over rough wood- 
paths, when one is only accustomed to 
work in which they sit, account for 
lameness and muscular soreness. Row- 
ing a boat, or other equally hard work 
done under a broiling sun, by one accus- 
tomed to work only under-cover, will 
iiivariably cause headaches, and some- 
times heat-prostration. A hurried or 
too hearty meal, eaten at the close of a 



hard day's work, when the stomach is 
tired, may result in a severe attack of 
indigestion. Sitting about and getting 
chilled in wet garments is a prolific 
cause of severe colds, also rheumatism 
and neuralgia. 

The tendency in some camps of in- 
dulging in much fried food, tends to 
cause "biliousness." 

A few words of explanation will be 
needed as to the uses of some of the 
remedies named for the first-aid outfit ; 
as some of these are not considered in 
either manual mentioned. 

Antiphlogistine is very useful in the 
treatment of boils, bruises, stings and 
as a poultice in erysipelas, sore-throat, 
colds "on the lungs," and any disease 
where there is swelling and inflamma- 
tion. 

Use it according to directions to be 
found on the cans. 

Ichthyol, Resinol, or Unguentine oint- 
ments are ideal in the dressing of burns, 
for deep sunburn, stings, and bites of 
animals or insects, and irritation of skin 
from poisonous plants. 

Saturated solution of Epsom- Salts 
(as much as will dissolve in the desired 
amount of water) is valuable as a topi- 
cal application in nearly all inflamma- 
tory conditions, such as erysipelas, sun- 
burn, ivy-poisoning, stings, bruises, and 
])listered feet. Soft cloths saturated 
with the solution should be applied over 
the whole inflamed area, and renewed as 
fast as they become dry. Doctors of 
eminent reputation recommend the use 
of Epsom Salts in this way. 

In biliousness, give a good dose of 
Salts or several Seidlitz-Powders ; and 
have the patient drink freely of cold 
water each morning, an hour or more 
before breakfast. 

Ginger and soda, a teaspoonful of 
each, in y4-glassful of cold water make 
a most effective remedy for sour stom- 
ach and indigestion. 

For colds of any kind, Mulford's 
"Cold Preferred" Tablets are excellent 
for an adult to take ; but are not to be 



FIRST AID OUTFIT 



139 



recommended for children under ten 
years of age. Two of these tablets 
should be taken every 3 hours, until the 
acute symptoms of the cold abate. 

A Cathartic should also be given as 
often as necessary to keep the bowels 
free; and in colds "on the lungs", use 
either a poultice of Antiphlogistine, re- 
newed every 12 hours, or paint both the 
anterior and posterior chest with two 
good coats of tincture of iodine; paint- 
ing on one coat daily, for each succeed- 
ing day, until soreness and ''catchy" 
pains in chest subside. 

Another effective treatment for chest- 
colds is to rub the turpentine and oil 
mixture onto both the anterior and pos- 
terior chest, then to cover with hot, dry 
or moist flannels, frequently renewed. 

For young children, the application of 
Antiphlogistine Poultice is to be pre- 
ferred to the use of either iodine or 
turpentine and oil. 

This turpentine and oil mixture is fine 
as an application to the abdomen in 
cases of colic, diarrhoea, or any other 
trouble causing pain, bloating, or inflam- 
mation. It is also useful as an applica- 
tion over rheumatic joints. 

Tr. of Iodine hardly needs to be intro- 
duced as beneficial for sprains and 
bruises. In case of lacerated wounds, or 
wounds made by any rusty article, 1 
teaspoonful Tr. of Iodine added to 1 
quart of boiled water, should be used in 
which to soak the injured member. 

This treatment may be repeated sev- 
eral times a day. One coat of the tinc- 
ture, painted over the skin-area sur- 
rounding a wound, will aid the healing 
process and prevent pus-formation. 

Peroxide of hydrogen is useful in 
sore-throats, as a cleansing-agent in a 
wound that has suppurated, for cleans- 
ing out freshly made wounds, boils, 
stings of insects, etc. For stings it 
should be applied pure; but for other 
purjx)ses should be diluted with an equal 
bulk of water. 

In sore-throat, the chemically-pure 
glycerin is also valuable. After using 



the peroxide for a gargle, take j/ tea- 
spoonful of glycerin onto the tongue, 
and allow it to trickle slowly back to- 
ward the tonsils. Do not swallow until 
absolutely necessary. The relief of irri- 
tation and tickling in the thn^at i< al- 
most magical. 

Glycerin applied pure, on cotton or 
gauze, is excellent in the treatment of 
blisters, deep sunburn, boils, stings, 
erysipelas, and all inflammations where 
it is desired to reduce swelling and ten- 
sion of the tissues as rapidly as possible. 
Equal parts of glycerin and alcohol, 
heated as hot as can be borne, and 
dropped into the canal of the ear, will 
often relieve severe earache very 
promptly. 

Aromatic ammonia is a safe and ef- 
fective stimulant; and is useful in acid 
dyspepsia, nervous and sick-headaches, 
fainting, hysteria, and in any depression 
following injury or heat-prostration. 

It is doubly useful if combined with 
a few drops of brandy, in case to be 
given for relief of depression of the 
heart, or in other exhaustion. The dose 
of aromatic ammonia for an adult is 1 
teaspoonful, and for a child, 10 drops, 
given in ^4 glassful of water, and re- 
peated if necessary, every 15 minutes 
for 4 or 5 doses. 

An emergency-outfit would hardly be 
complete without a package of borax. 
It is so refreshing wdien added to the 
bath-water ; and in solution for a gargle, 
or for canker in the mouth, it is most 
excellent. Use as directed on package. 

If one is remote from a Doctor's aid, 
it is always best to take something in the 
outfit for the relief of pain. Paregoric 
and Codeine are probably the safest 
anodynes to place in the hands of the 
inexperienced. But it should never be 
forgotten that these are never to be used 
without a doctor's orders, except in 
Emergency, when the patient is suffering 
great or unbearable pain. After in- 
juries, or in cholera morbus, or cholera 
infantum, or in intestinal colic, or pain 
from other abdominal inflammations, it 



140 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



may become necessary to use some ano- 
dyne before a doctor can reach the 
patient. 

\'ery small doses have been known to 
kill an infant; therefore use every cau- 
tion, and watch the patient for any blue- 
ness of face or under fingernails, or very 
prolonged sleep, after giving either of 
these anodynes. A little br,andy or 
whiskey, given in the dosage mentioned 
elsewhere in this article, will prevent 
such accident from depression by these 
drugs. It is always wise to give a good 
dose of castor oil just before giving the 
first dose of paregoric. 

The dose of paregoric is, — for an 
adult, 1 tablespoonf ul ; for a baby under 
one year, 3 drops ; for a child under two 
years, 10 drops; under three years, 12 
drops; under four and five years, 20 
drops; under 10 years, 40 drops; under 
15 years, 1 teaspoonful. Aromatic am- 
monia, in dosage indicated above, may 
be given with the paregoric or codeine. 

Codeine, if carefully used is practi- 
cally safe for adults. It will quiet the 
nerves and reHeve pain after injuries, in 
neuralgia, acute rheumatism, in pleurisy, 
intestinal colic, and headache. It is not 
as effective with most people as pare- 
goric; but is not as constipating. The 
dose is, — grains ]A, to grains 1 ; repeated 
every 2 hours for 3 doses. 

Brandy is very useful in the severe 
and acute diarrhoeas, and to combat 
shock following injury or exhaustion 
from over-exertion. 

The dose is, — 5 to 10 drops every 
hour, or 10 to 20 drops, every 3 hours, 
for children. For adults the dose 
should be doubled or trebled, and taken 
at the same intervals as used with chil- 
dren. 

Turpentine and oil should be used on 



the abdomen, covered with hot flannels, 
in connection with the doses of brandy. 

The bichloride of mercury solution to 
be used in treating wounds is made by 
dissolving 1 tablet in 1 quart of water;' 
bathing the injured part in this, and. 
then dressing with surgeon's gauze 
which has been soaked in, and wrung 
out of a similar solution. However, a 
necessary fact to remember, in using 
bichloride solutions, is that they should 
never be used on surfaces which are, 
or have recently been treated with any 
iodine preparation, and vice versa. 
These two drugs, used in this way would 
form a highly irritating and poisonous 
compound called iodine of mercury, 
which would cause much soreness and 
probable excoriation of the skin. 

The hot-water bottle may be made to 
take the place of an ice-cap, filled with 
ice-water or very cold water, and used 
on the head in sun-stroke, headache, or 
feverish conditions in general. 

Remember that in caring for sick 
children, much depends upon quiet sur- 
roundings, careful attention to diet, and 
free action of the bowels, i. e., to have 
two normal movements a day. An 
enema of • warm water in which are a 
few drops of peppermint, will rarely fail 
to relieve colic in an infant. And, in 
indigestion in young children, never fail 
to give an enema. 

In cholera infantum, large enemas of 
warm salt-solution, given twice daily, 
are very useful. The solution is made 
by dissolving 1^^ teaspoonfuls of com- 
mon table-salt in 1 quart of boiled water. 

I sincerely hope that these sugges- 
tions may help not a few campers and 
cottagers to a happy vacation, and a 
prompt relief from any acute illness that 
may occur there. 



Seaweed as Food 

By Madeline Seymour 



THE Flowery Kingdom ! What 
an interesting country it is to be 
sure ! Think of the conservation 
of seaweed as being one of the very im- 
portant questions before the Japanese 
people! The government of Japan has 
taken action to prevent further denuda- 
tion along some parts of her sea coast, 
and has in her employ a large number of 
men eminently skilled in this particular 
branch of horticulture. These marine 
gardens are fertilized, where the devasta- 
tion has advanced to such a state that 
Dame Nature is unable to repair the in- 
jury without the aid of the specialist. 
The culture of sea weed, is extensively 
engaged in, throughout the whole length 
of seacoast, the red laver {Porphyra 
laciniata) being the most popular variety 
raised. 

This species of sea weed, is manufac- 
tured into many different food stufifs 
and is used, in some form, by the Japan- 
ese house wife at every meal. Great 
amounts are exported to China; and it 
is in constant demand by all oriental 
countries. Marine farming is a very 
profitable agricultural pursuit, the har- 
vest yielding $160 an acre, while the cost 
of cultivation is nominal. 

The area of marine lands, adequately 
fitted for this industry, is necessarily re- 
stricted and is leased by the government 
at public auction. 

This culture is unique with Japan. No 
where else in the world is there any at- 
tempt made to improve, or extend, the 
knowledge of this valuable sea food. 

In the fall of the year, October and 
November, coolies are seen gathering 
bamboo sticks and brushwood ; these are 
put together in bundles and taken to the 
sea weed fields in boats, at low tide, deep 
holes are dug in the sandy floor of the 
sea, by driving down through the sand 
and water an elongated, cone-shaped 
wooden frame with two long straight 



handles of wood. In each hole is planted 
one of the bundles of brushwood; they 
are planted in long straight lines, at reg- 
ular intervals, and can be seen at high 
tide, seeming to rise and fall with the 
motion of the sea. The reason for thus 
planting these sticks and twigs is that 
the floating spores of the red laver may 
attach themselves to the brushwood 
whereby, finding a congenial dwelling 
place, they can reach a high degree of 
development. 

The red laver spores adhere to the 
small branches and sticks and soon- be- 
come plants that mature quickly, so that 
in three months they have grown to per- 
fect ripeness and are ready to be gather- 
ed. They are then cleaned, evaporated, 
and sent to the manufacturer, who puts 
them on the market in a variety of 
forms ; these are very nutritious and 
some are delightfully pleasing to the pal- 
ate. 

Now this red laver seaweed, grows 
profusely on both the Atlantic and Paci- 
fic coast of our own United States, but 
the idea of making use of it has not, as 
yet, presented itself to the people. A 
small amount is gathered in California 
by the Chinese and Japanese. Japan 
derives an annual income of $300,000 
from her red laver marine forests. 

There is another marine product that 
is worth still more commercially, and 
that is the seaweed isinglass, or kanten 
as it is called by the Japanese. This pro- 
duct is exported to all civilized countries. 

There are more than five hundred 
houses in Japan today manufacturing 
kanten, and putting great quantities on 
the market. Kanten is made from sea- 
weed of the Gelidium family ; these 
flourish in the rocks and are gathered by 
coolies diving for them. The harvesting 
season opens in May, and for six months 
the plant is collected. The sea weed is 
brought to the shore, spread out in the 



141 



142 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



sun and dried, then taken to the manu- 
facturer and sold from six to eight cents 
a pound. The finished article is pearl)' 
white, glossy and semi-transparent. It 
is used by the Japanese to clarify saki 
which is their native wine, it is also used 
in making jellies, soups and sauces. 

In America we use it most generally 
in concocting dainty desserts, jellies, 
pastries and ices. . It is further used for 
the sizing of textiles, for strengthening 
the warp of silks, for settling coffee, 
wine, and beer, for fashioning molds for 
vvorkers in plaster of paris and also to 
advantage in the manufacture of paper. 
It is shipped in great quantities to the 
Schnapp factories in Holland. 

The Japanese kanten, known to us as 
agar-agar, is used entirely as a culture 
medium in bacteriological work, by 
scientific seekers. Is this not a sincere 
compliment to the perfect purity of the 
manufactured product ? 

This same identical species of seaweed, 
used so profitably by the Japanese in the 
manufacture of kanten, grows in wildest 
profusion on the Pacific coast all the way 
from Canada to Mexico, and from the 
rock bound coast of Maine to the sunny 
shores of the Gulf of Mexico, to say 
nothing of sisters, and cousins and aunts 
of the red laver species, which grow plen- 
tifully and are as adequately adapted to 
the profitable culture. In the United 
States the finished article is in demand 
and commands an excellent price. Is it 
not remarkable that no enterprising spirit 
of the Twentieth century has yet realized 
his opportunity and introduced the dom- 
estic product? 

Another plant which grows around the 
shores of the ocean, and is wonderfully 
useful, is the Funori, or seaweed glue. 
The glue is extracted from many differ- 
ent kinds of seaw^eed and commands, in 
Japan, from four to twenty-four cents 
a pound, the price being subject to the 
quality and care exercised in its manu- 
facture. It is used in glazing and giving 
body to cloth, stiffening textures, the 
saine as starch, enameling fine papers, ce- 



menting walls and tiles, and in the orna- 
mentation of pottery and china. 

The seaweed that grows more lavishly 
than all others, and which grows along 
every coast in the world, are the kelps. 
These the Japanese develop into the 
article of food known as komhu. All the 
coarse, broad-leaved kelps are harvested 
from early July until October frost. The 
kelp reapers go to the marine fields in L 
open boats, armed with long wooden f 
poles, at the end of which is fastened a 
strong hook ; with this implement they v 
tear the seaweed from the rocks. It is f 
then dried, cured, and sold to the men, 
whose business it is to manufacture the 
kombti. 

These men concoct more surprising, 
pleasing, palatable and nutritious dishes 
from komhu, than our own friend and 
benefactor, Mr. Heinz, does with his 
fifity-seven varieties, or that worthy in- 
stitution. The Battle Creek Sanitarium. 
Komhu is a staple article of food, and 
makes its appearance in some shape, or 
form, at least once at every meal. It is 
shredded like the celebrated Biscuit, or 
flaked, which suggests Toasties. It is 
prepared as a vegetable, made into sweet 
meats, cooked with soup, and served as a 
condiment with the fish course; meats 
are brought to table prepared with sea- 
weed. It is used as a garnish, as a sauce, 
and as a beverage. 

Just think of America, literally sur- ' 
rounded with all these wonderful plants, 
in the cultivation of which lies many for- 
tunes, and not realizing her boundless 
wealth in her marine forests ! 

It is amazing, that the only use the 
kelps have fulfilled in America is that of , 
fertilizing waste lands, adjoining the sea. 
Iodine has been extracted from sea- 
weed for many years ; Scotland used to ■ 
lead in this, industry, but not long ago, 
Japan w-rested that honor from her, and 
now supplies the world in a great meas- ; 
ure. The value of iodine, has greatly de- 
preciated since the mineral deposits in 
South America and other countries have 
been worked, so that the manufacture 



SEAWEED AS FOOD 



143 



from kelp in America would not be en- 
ticing except as a by-product. Other by- 
products of value, and of importance, 
derived from seaweed are chloride of 
potash, algin, celluose, dextrin, mannite, 
and many salts, such as sodium alginate. 

Algin, is a most extraordinary matter, 
which appears qualified for an infinite 
variety of applications in the field of Arts 
and Sciences. It has fourteen times the 
sticky substance of starch, and thirty- 
seven times that of gum arabic. In the 
form of sodium alginate it may be turned 
into thin, colorless sheets similar to gel- 
atine, but which are exceedingly pliable; 
add bichrome, and algin becomes insolu- 
able ; and silver alginate darkens very 
rapidly when exposed to the light. Its 
I'Cculiar properties court the close inves- 
tigation of the manufacturers of photo- 
graphic films. 

As a sizing for manufactured cloth, 
algin fills a long felt need of a soluable 
gum, with superior powers of elasticity 
and flexibility, and of a soluable sub- 
stance for albumen, which with great 
facility may be turned into an insoluable 
substance and used as a mordant. So- 
dium alginate, experts say, is the best 
known property to prevent the incrusta- 
tion of boilers. 

As an article of food, algin may be 
used to advantage for thickening soups 
and desserts, and may be used in place 



of gum arabic for making nougat, ju- 
jubes and other similar candies. In pre- 
paring and mixing medicines it holds 
first place in the emulsifying of oils and 
for the refining of liquors. 

There is a species of seaweed, known 
as Irish moss, which is cultivated in some 
degree in New England. This is a vege- 
tation which grows in the sea near the 
shore, from Maine to North Carolina. It 
thrives in rich profusion around Cape 
Cod. There are a few manufacturers on 
the Massachusetts and New Hampshire 
coasts, who engage in gathering the Irish 
moss seaweed. The center of this occu- 
pation is at Scituate, Mass., where it has 
been carried on for seventy-five years. 
Before this time it was imported from 
Europe and retailed here at two dollars 
a pound. In 1835, Dr. J.. V. C. Smith, 
who at that time was Mayor of Boston, 
informed the people, that the same moss, 
which they were bringing from abroad 
at a fancy price, grew right down in the 
bay. This interested some of the town's 
people, and resulted in the starting of 
some factories in the Scituate neighbor- 
hood, and this business has flourished 
more or less since. 

Irish moss is used for making Blanc 
mange, a dessert served with cream, also 
for jellies and puddings and for cough 
medicine, clarifying beer and for the siz- 
ing of cloth. 



Nightfall on the Meadow 

The hush of eve is over the land, 

Low in the west the sun ; 
The rake and the mower idle stand, 

The work in the field is done. 

The teams and wagons and men are gone ; 

They have plied their task all day, 
To finish it just ere night draws on — 

They have gathered and stacked the hay. 

But oh, the smell of the meadow sweet, 

The same as I used to know 
When I walked alone o'er a field new-mown. 

In the long and long ago ! 

Eugene C. Dolson. 




ideAs (Ol la^ 

EC°N°MIE-5| 

Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 

A Novel Way of Preparing and Carrying a Lunch 




Now that the warm spring days 
tempt one to drop household af- 
fairs and depart with the children for a 
scramble over the hills and through the 
woody stretches, almost unconsciously 
one begins, also, to plan for long sum- 
mer day's tramps and picnics by the 
roadside — and, as all these jaunts mean 
the inevitable lunch or "smack." Per- 
haps a novel way of preparing and 
carrying these lunches may strike the 
fancy of others as it did mine. It was 
in the Yosemite Valley, at Camp Curry, 
that I first beheld this unique lunch, and 
we have many times since tried it out 
and always with good success. 

On any kind of a tramp one wishes to 
walk unhampered by unnecessary arti- 
cles, and above all by any unnecessary 
weight, and the lack of weight in the 
Camp Curry lunch is its first merit. 
Each lunch is put up separately, so each 
one in the party carries his own bite to 
eat and no one has to become a pack- 
horse. But the art of the lunch lies in 
its packing. Each lunch is packed be- 
tween two ordinary bakers' cardboard 
pie-plates, and it is managed thus : In 
the center of one pie-plate place the 
fruit, orange, peach or grapes, prefera- 
bly wrapped in oiled paper; beside the 
fruit put one or two hard-boiled eggs ; 
now circling around these arrange your 
sandwiches (wrapped in oiled paper, of 
course, to keep them fresh), double 
deckers, if your appetite is a hearty one, 
a piece of cake, a bit of cheese and a 
pickle or two, and on top lay a napkin. 



Put the second pie-plate on top and tie 
stoutly with twine, wrapping it around 
the pie-plates at right angles. Then put 
this into a paper bag of the right size, 
and you have a satisfying lunch of prac- 
tically no weight except food weight. 

Those who prefer may carry the 
lunch in this simple manner. But a 
better way is to fold back neatly the top 
of the bag and tie again with twine. 
Then it can be slung from the belt, back 
of the hip, the easiest way of all to carry 
a package, as in that position you never 
notice you are carrying it. I'll admit it 
does not sound as if the effect were 
artistic, but try it and its practicability 
will appeal at once. Or, slip it over a 
shoulder belt, knapsack-fashion, — I have 
often improvised a shoulder strap out 
of my sweater, for when out in the 
woods for a day's tramp it usually 
nieans the precaution of a sweater, 
which you probably will not need as a 
wrap until evening. By slipping the 
arm of the sweater through a loop, 
made for the purpose in tying up the 
lunch, and carrying it army-blanket 
fashion, that is across one shoulder and 
under the opposite arm, tying the 
sweater by its arms, you have solved 
both the luncheon and sweater question 
and still have your arms free for a 
swinging gait, or, if climbing, free for 
the use of your stafif or to grasp every 
helping twig. 

An essential of the lunch is the right 
selection of the fruit, for a juicy fruit 
becomes a thirst-quenching draught as 



144 



I 



NOVEL WAY OF PREPARING AND CARRYING A LUNCH 145 



well as an appetizing accessory to the 
lunch. The pickle also carries with it 
this same merit. And here it may not 
be too wide a digression, if I give "our" 
favorite sandwich. It consists, between 
thin slices of bread, of lettuce leaves, 
spread with mayonnaise, and small 
pieces of ripe olives and good walnuts. 
In my opinion there is nothing to equal 
the California ripe olive. After one has 
tried them, he never cares to go back to 
the indigestible green olive. The pickled 
ripe olive is delicious and a child may 
eat a quart and they will not harm him ; 
palatable, nourishing and rich in oils, 
they make a splendid food. b. w. 

* * * 

A September Day 

FOR Labor Day, the guests assembled 
at twilight, and first 'labored" at 
Bean Bags on the lawn. Two leaders 
were named, who chose sides ; a large 
target with numbered spaces had been 
erected, and each player had three bags, 
which were to be thrown at the target. 
The numbers hit, were added together, 
and the side whose numbers aggregated 
the greatest amount won. 

This was a good appetite producer for 
the dinner, which was served on a large 
screened-in porch. The boys were each 
given little tools to represent labor, and 
found their partners from the quotations 
on the cards of the girls ; for example 
the card, on which was, ''Fray you, sir, 
who's his tailor," matched a pair of 
shears, and "He talks of wood; it is 
some carpenter," matched a hammer. 
With a little trouble these can easily be 
provided. After finding partners they 
then "labored" to eat soup with tiny 
coffee spoons, creamed chicken, pota- 
toes, and peas with knives, salad with 
soup ladles, macaroni with toothpicks, 
ice cream with huge carving forks, and 
drank their coffee from bowls; the nuts 
were served uncracked. 

Each couple were then called on for 
some sort of entertainment or stunt sug- 
gestive of their "labor." Some of them 



proved very amusing; the young man of 
the shoemaker couple' gave a pantomime 
performance of mending his partner's ^ 
shoe. The tailor with his shears and a 
piece of paper cut a pattern, which he 
proceeded to fit to his partner. The 
blacksmith couple recited, together, por- 
tions of The Village Blacksmith. 

Much ingenuity can be displayed in a 
party of this kind. l. r. t. 

* * ♦ 

Variety in Put-up Lunches 

NEARLY all the suggestions one 
reads in regard to putting up 
lunches have reference to new kinds of 
sandwich fillings. The man for whom 
I prepare lunches gets very tired of 
sliced bread sandwiches, however varied 
the filling. A slight innovation from 
time to time is made by the use of rolls 
instead of loaf bread. The pointed 
Vienna roll is particularly suited to 
pickled lambs' tongues also to any sort 
of salad. The round roll takes a leaf 
of lettuce nicely. 

My most acceptable lunches however 
are those where I fill a small jar (with 
screw cover) with some eatable of .a soft 
or moist nature, such as potato salad, 
pickled halibut, sliced tomato, apple 
sauce, cut up oranges or peaches, and 
strawberries in season. Even a soft- 
boiled tgg, chopped and seasoned, is a 
relief from the hard-boiled tgg, which is 
the staple lunch dish. This with a roll, 
or slice of buttered bread makes much 
less dry eating than a sandwich must be 
from its very nature. Still again, a cold 
lamb chop, or a chicken drum-stick, is 
often much relished as the chief lunch 
feature. These should be wrapped in 
waxed paper, and accompanied by salt 
in a paper folded like a doctor's powder. 

A cup custard is an agreeable change 
for a sweet, when no other jar is car- 
ried. I use custard cups, also, to fill with 
coffee or lemon jelly, which my luncher 
finds very refreshing. Individual cakes 
are, I think, always daintier than slices 
from a loaf, as are turnovers better than 



146 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



segments of a pie. When I lack cake, 
cookies or pie, I sometimes use common 
crackers, split and filled with raisins or 
sliced citron. e. m. h. 

* * * 

Toasted Cream Cheese, with 
Pecan Kernels 

TAKE small, fresh, crisp crackers, 
preferably about one-third longer 
than wide, and lay them, side by side, 
neatly, in a row along the bottom of an 
oblong platter, with the ends of each 
cracker equally distant from the sides 
of the platter. Then cut thin, oblong 
slices of rich cream cheese exactly the 
shape of the crackers, except that they 
should be about one-fourth smaller, that 
when they are. toasted and have become 
soft the slices of cheese will spread out 
evenly and uniformly in all directions, 
to cover the entire cracker. 

Lay these slices of cheese in the mid- 
dle of the crackers, so that a uniformly 
narrow strip of the cracker will show 
at the sides and ends. Then take pecan 
kernels, halved and trimmed flat upon 
the under or heart side, and lay them, 
side by side, evenly across the long 
strips of cheese. The crackers and 
cheese should be long enough so that 
there will be room for four or five of 
these kernels on the strips of cheese. 
The kernels should be of equal length 
and width, and of the same shape, and 
just long enough to reach across the 
strips of cheese, from side to side, with- 
out hanging over much, though if they 
are slightly longer than the strips of 
cheese are wade, it doesn't matter, as 
the cheese will spread out in toasting. 

After the kernels are arranged dain- 
tily across the strips of cheese, put the 
platter in a rather hot oven and toast 
from two to four minutes. The oven 
should be briskly hot, but not hot 
enough to brown the crackers. Open 
the door quickly, two or three times, to 
see that the crackers are not scorching. 
Also do not allow the dish to stay in so 
long that the cheese becomes soft and 



thin, and runs over the ends and sides 
of the crackers. It should spread out 
evenly and uniformly nearly to the 
edges of the crackers in every direction. 
When this condition has been reached, 
take out and serve on the hot platter, 
with white, crisp, inside stalks of celery 
or celery hearts upon a side dish. Also 
serve a generous saucer of apple sauce. 

This makes a delicious, strengthening, 
evenly balanced dinner or luncheon, 
containing an almost ideal proportion 
of protein, fat, carbohydrates and ash. 
Toasting the pecan kernels brings out 
their rich, oily, nutty flavor. 

Kernels of English walnuts may be 
used, if desired, instead of pecan 
kernels. i. h. m. 



* * * 



Rose Flavoring in Old-Time 
Cookery 

A "Pennsylvania Dutch" Method 

IN former times the use of the rose 
for flavoring was much more gen- 
eral than now. W^e have reverted to all 
epochs and styles of furnishings and 
kept up many of the old-fashioned 
dishes, but have given up rosewater, and 
to a large degree peach leaves or bitter 
almond as a flavor, — the more modern 
form. Confectioners say that hard- 
coated sugar almonds are desired and 
not those flavored with rose. Usually 
these are colored pale pink, and the 
violet ones have violet flavoring, etc. 

In many things, such as cakes and 
pudding sauces, a mixture of a little rose 
water with vanilla, or bitter almond, or 
the three together will prove very agree- 
able. For a pudding sauce all three with 
some carameled sugar may be approved. 

Very rich wafer jumbles may be fla- 
vored with rose or lemon or the two 
may be combined, using old-fashioned 
recipes ; some times such as these are 
called Tunbridge Cakes. 

An old colonial way was to make these 
jumbles so rich that a sheet could not be 
rolled out as one does plain cookies; in- 
stead a bit must be rolled at a time and a 
wafer or two cut from it. Of course 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



147 



the dough must be kept very cold. 

Here is an old Pennsylvania idea 
from one of those German families, 
called "Pennsylvania Dutch." 

Instead of putting the rose water or 
rose extract into the wafers or jumbles, 
each little cakelet is dipped in rose water 
and then in sugar before being laid in 
the pan. The remainder of the rose- 
flavored sugar is used for flavoring and 
covering a Dutch Sugar Cake, which is 
a fancy risen bread to eat with coflfee. 
These are familiar in most towns where 
(ierman bakers are to be found. 

A little rose water in cocoa is accept- 
able to many and some like it in fruit 
beverages ; but very little should be used. 
In cake the extract of rose must not be 
used as freely as vanilla. 

A pleasant syrup of rose can be made 
by putting fine, fragrant rose petals in 
high-proof brandy or alcohol ; do not 
crush them, else a bitter flavor results. 
Strain off the spirits and pour over an- 
other lot of rose petals ; add an equal 
measure of heavy, clarified syrup, made 
of sugar and water, and store in glass. 
This is excellent in chocolate or rich 
cocoa, also, in rich squash pies, when 
these are made with plenty of cream and 
eggs and no spices. j. d. c. 

* * * 

Buying Sheets 

T N buying sheets, state to the clerk 
-'' the exact length needed for one 
sheet, including hems. Then as he meas- 
ures from a bolt of sheeting he tears ofif 
each sheet. This insures accuracy. It 
has been found a great help in buying 
supplies for an institution, especially 
when the sheets are to be sent to differ- 
ent people for hemming. They are 
then of uniform length. 

Making over a Tablecloth 

When a very handsome bordered 
tablecloth began to wear, the cloth was 
divided lengthwise and the outside 
^selvedges were overhanded in a tiny 
center seam. Then a narrow hem was 



put in the sides that were raw edged. 
When the cloth was laundered, the center 
seam could not be seen at all and the bor- 
der running through the cloth made it 
prettier than it was in the beginning. 

A Substitute for Butter 

By following the rule given below one 
may obtain a substitute for butter that 
is excellent for frying and cooking. 
Buy at the meat market three pounds of 
fat called Cod fat ; it is a pure suet. Cut 
it in small pieces, add one quart of water 
and put it over the fire to boil for half 
an hour. Then push it back and allow 
it to cook slowly, until the fat is all 
shrivelled and a brown feathery sub- 
stance. Then strain. The result is a 
clear good shortening with no strong 
flavor. E. s. 

For New Housekeepers 

NEW, yes, old housekeepers are fre- 
quently puzzled regarding weights 
and measuring proportions, and this lit- 
tle schedule w^ill, I am sure, be helpful 
to all; before starting, see that all ma- 
terials are free from lumps of any kind, 
and the measuring cup or spoon even 
full, not running over. 

1 pint of granulated sugar equals 1 
pound. 

1 pint of brown sugar equals 13 
ounces. 

1 pint of maple sugar equals 17 
ounces. 

1 pint of graham flour equals 8 ounces. 

1 pint of wheat flour equals 8 ounces. 

1 pint of corn meal equals 10 ounces. 

1 pint of soft butter equals 1 pound. 

1 pint of grated bread crumbs equals 
9 ounces. 

1 pint of seeded raisins equals 9 
ounces. 

1 pint of dried currants equals 10 
ounces. 

1 pint of rice equals 15 ounces. 

1 pint of dried hominy equals 13 
ounces. 

1 quart of white flour equals 1 pound. 



148 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



9 large hen's eggs equal 1 pound. 

2 level tablespoonfuls of butter equal 
1 ounce. 

1 ounce of flour equals four level ta- 
blespoonfuls. 

1 ounce of grated chocolate equals 3 
level tablespoonsfuls. 

1 ounce of ground coffee equals 4 level 
tablespoonfuls. 

1 ounce of granulated sugar equals 2 
level tablespoonfuls. 

1 ounce of cornstarch equals 3 table- 
spoonfuls. 

1 ounce of fine salt equals 2 level 
tablespoonfuls. l. n. 

* * * 

Savory Rice 

PUT one-half a cup of rice in one 
quart of cold water and boil for five 
minutes after it has reached the boiling 
point. Take two green peppers and one 
small onion chopped (not too fine,) and 
put in a frying pan with one tablespoon- 
ful of butter. When this has become 
thoroughly heated, add the rice (which 
has been previously blanched) and fry 
for about three minutes, or until the rice 
has absorbed the butter, then add one 
pint of celery water, (the celery water 
is obtained by taking one quart of water 
and the leaves from one stalk of celery 
and boiling for one hour, then strain) 
one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, 
one-half a teaspoonful of paprika, and 
a dash of black pepper. When this has 
boiled up, add a well-beaten egg, and, 
lastly, one cup of grated cheese (Amer- 
ican) or stale Switzer will do. Let this 
heat in a double boiler for thirty min- 
utes, then serve hot on hot toast. 

K. B. s. 
With proper manipulation and the 
omission of the toast the above recipe 
will furnish a most appetizing luncheon 
or supper dish. After the rice has boiled 
five minutes, drain, rinse in cold water 
and drain again. After the addition cf 
the celery water, let the rice cook — di- 
rectly over the fire or in a double boiler 
— until it is tender and has absorbed the 



water. Then add the egg and cheese 
and serve at once or in a short time. 
In rice about 79 parts in 100 are starch; 
why add more starch to the dish as 
bread ? — Ed. 

Three Mushrooms Unmistakable 

MANY people fond of mush- 
rooms wisely refrain from 
gathering them for their own 
use, although country lanes and orchards 
may abound with them. It is true that 
only a botanical expert can distinguish 
the wholesome from the poisonous 
fungi, and no silver spoon or other 
amateur test should be relied upon. 

There are, however, three varieties of 
mushroom, of which the writer and 
others have eaten freely, and which can- 
not possibly be mistaken for anything 
else, so individual are their character- 
istics. 

The first is the small, thimble-shaped 
fungi found growing about the roots 
of decaying oak trees or stumps. The 
fact that they are to be found nowhere 
else where they grow in clusters, to- 
gether with their shape and size, which 
is that of a large thimble, should render 
this variety unmistakable even to the 
amateur. There is, also, the further fact 
that chey verify their name, the *Tnky/' 
by turning the water in which they are 
washed literally as black as ink. The 
older mushrooms are, also, jet black un- 
derneath, though a pinkish tan when ab- 
solutely fresh. 

The second variety also differs from 
any variety of toadstool known, in be- 
ing cone-shaped and porous like a 
sponge, and without gills. These are 
found in old orchards, and can hardly 
be mistaken, since the spores or cells of 
the sponge-like cone are very deep and 
plainly marked. These are called 
Morells, and may be safely eaten during- 
their season, which ends about the first 
of June. 

Another variety is the Pufifball, a real 
ball of solid white meat, every portion 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



149 



except the rind of which is edible. 
These grow sometimes to enormous 
sizes, a single ball being cut and sold 
by the pound as steak, thus serving sev- 
eral families. While still firm and white 
the flesh, simply peeled, sliced and fried 
slowly in butter until tender and pale 
brown in color, makes nutritous and 
delicate eating. 

In preparing mushrooms for cooking 
by any of the following methods, they 
should be carefully examined to see 
that they are aboslutely fresh and free 
from insect life. One certain method 
of determining this point is to let the 
mushrooms lie in strong salted water 
for an hour or tw^o before cooking, but 
this is considered by many to impair the 
delicate flavor. If merely dusty they 
should be rinsed quickly and dried im- 
mediately on soft cheesecloth, with very 
careful handling. 

It should be remembered, also, that 
mushrooms, being very delicate in 
flavor, may be injured entirely by too 
long cooking, or if too highly seasoned. 
Neither should they be allowed to stand 
after cooking, but should be served im- 
mediately and eaten while hot. 

For any of the varieties of mush- 
room mentioned one or more methods of 
cooking may be found in the following 
tested recipes. 

Broiled Mushrooms: Peel mush- 
rooms with a silver knife, if of the 
variety needing peeling, and break 
out the stem (if any) which may be 
reserved for soup or flavoring. Butter 
the broiling iron and lay the mushrooms 
upon it, gills upward. Drop a small* 
lump of butter into the hole left by the 
stem, sprinkle with salt and pepper and 
broil delicately until the butter has 
melted into the flesh. Serve immediately 
on hot, buttered toast. 

Baked Mushrooms: Prepare mush- 
rooms as for broiling. Spread slices 
of bread with butter, then cover 
each slice with mushrooms. Put the 
baking pan in a hot oven for five min- 
utes ; then draw to the edge of oven and 



season each mushroom with a small 
lump of butter, pepper and salt. Push 
back the pan and bake until the mush- 
rooms are tender. Serve on the bread, 
which should be delicately browned. 

Individual Mushrooms: Drop mush- 
rooms into individual baking dishes 
having close-fitting covers ; (or lay 
on a baking pan and turn a cup 
over each portion). Sprinkle slightly 
with pepper and salt and add a teaspoon- 
ful of butter for each dish, together 
with six tablespoonfuls of thin cream or 
rich milk. Set in a hot oven for twenty 
minutes, covered close. Serve in in- 
dividual dishes, still covered, to be un- 
covered only at the table. 

Mushroom Soup: Wash and dry 
one pound and one-half of mushrooms. 
Melt two heaping tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter in a saucepan ; add one sliced onion 
and the mushrooms. Fry for five min- 
utes; take out twelve smallest mush- 
rooms and set aside. Add three pints 
of water to contents of saucepan, one 
blade of mace and a bit of salt and pep- 
per. Let boil slowly until mushrooms 
are tender, then rub all through a sieve 
and return to the pot, adding the small 
reserved mushrooms, together wuth one 
dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup. 
Mix one tablespoonful of flour with one 
of milk, add and let boil gently for five 
minutes. Warm one cup of cream, put 
in soup tureen and add the soup. Serve 
very hot. 

Escaloped Mushrooms: Put mush- 
rooms in a buttered baking dish, 
with alternate layers of crumbs, sea- 
soning each layer plentifully with but- 
ter, salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. 
Bake twenty minutes, keeping covered 
while in the oven. 

Stewed Mushrooms: Put small 
mushrooms in a saucepan with a 
little water, and let stew gently for fif- 
teen minutes. Add butter and salt, with 
flour to make as thick as cream, and let 
boil for five minutes longer. When 
ready to serve stir in two tablespoonfuls 
of cream. Pour over toast. 




^QIIERIErL3 dl^ AN.3WfcR^ 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1862. — "Recipe for Stewed Goose- 
berries." 

Stewed Gooseberries 

Remove all stems and blossom ends 
from the berries. To each pint add half 
a cup of water and about three-fourths 
a cup of sugar and let simmer in a sauce- 
pan until soft. 



Query 1863. — "Recipe for Canned Aspara- 
gus." 

Canned Asparagus 

Cut the stalks of asparagus to a 
length, to pack in the jars below the nar- 
rowing of the mouth of the jar. Set on 
a folded cloth, laid on a rack of the can- 
ner, boiler or saucepan. The water in 
the receptacle should be lukewarm. 
Rubbers should be in place on the jars 
and the covers beside the jars. Cover 
the receptacle and let the water heat 
slowly to the boiling point. To each 
quart of water add a teaspoonful of salt. 
When the water in the receptacle is boil- 
'ing, fill the jars to overflow with the 
boiling, salted water, adjust the covers 
and let cook about one hour and a quar- 
ter, then tighten the covers and set aside 
to cool. Store in a cool place. 



Query 1864. — "In the May number of the 
Magazine, in the XX Lesson in Elementary 
Cooking, reference was made to the batter 
used for Apple Cake in the preceding lesson. 
Will you kindly repeat this recipe?" 



Apple Cake 



U cups of flour 
§ a cup of milk 



2 teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder 

150 



2 teaspoonfuls of su- I 
gar I 

2 tablespoonfuls 



a teaspoonful 

salt 
of butter 



of 



Prepare as a short cake (biscuit) mix- 
ture, but add a little more liquid (than 
the quantity given above) and, without 
rolling, place the very soft dough in a 
buttered pan. Press slices of apple, edge 
downward, into the top, in close, even 
rows. Sprinkle the top with sugar and 
cinnamon (2 tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
one- fourth a teaspoonful of cinnamon). 
Bake about twenty-five minutes. Serve 
with sugar and milk or cream, .or with 
caramel sauce. 



Query 1865. — "Recipes for Egg Timbales 
and Cheese Souffle." 



Egg Timbales 



6 eggs 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

h a teaspoonful of 

pepper 
1 teaspoonful of 



chopped parsley 
20 drops of onion 

juice 
U cups of rich milk 



Beat the eggs, without separating the 
whites and yolks; add the other ingre- 
dients and mix thoroughly. Pour into 
well-buttered timbale molds. Cook, set 
on several folds of paper, surrounded by 
hot water, until the centers are firm. 
Remove from the water. Let stand two 
or three minutes, then unmold on a hot 
platter. Surround with cream, tomato 
or bread sauce. Asparagus tips or peas ; 
may be added to the cream sauce. Fori 
a change line the molds with pimentos 
before turning the mixture into them. 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



151 



Cheese Souffle 



2 tablespoonfuls of 

butter 
2 tablespoonfuls of 

flour 
i a teaspoonful of 

mustard 
i a teaspoonful of 



paprika 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a cup of milk 
i a pound of grated 

cheese 
3 eggs 



cup of boiling water or cider and let 
"cook until the ham is very tender, bast- 
ing often. 



Make a sauce of the butter, flour, sea- 
sonings and milk; add the cheese, and 
the yolks of the eggs, beaten light, then 
fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten dry. 
Bake in a buttered serving dish, set in 
a pan of hot water (boiling when set into 
the oven, but not boiling thereafter) 
about twenty-five minutes. Serve at 
once. 



Query 1866.. — "Should Jams be closed at 
once, while hot, or after cooling?" 

Storing Jams 

Jams being made with a large meas- 
ure of sugar are not liable to harm from 
bacteria, etc. Thus it is not necessary 
to close the jars at once. To protect 
from mold and evaporation, cover close 
when thoroughly cold. 



Query 1867. — "Kindly give Ways of Using 
various fruits preserved in alcohol in which 
salicylic acid has been dissolved." 

Ways of Using Tutti Frutti 

Tutti Frutti, is used in ices, and as a 
pudding sauce. A little might be used 
in fruit cake. We do not think the sali- 
cylic acid is needed or often used. 



Query 1868. — "Recipe for Baked Ham with 
Cloves pressed into it." 

Baked Ham wdth Cloves 
Scrub the ham, if salty, and let soak 
overnight in cold water. Put over the 
fire with cold water just to cover, and 
let cook at a gentle simmer about twenty 
minutes to the pound. Remove the skin 
entire or leave several inches about the 
shin bone, cutting the edge in points. 
Press cloves into the skinned portion of 
the ham, dredge with sugar and sifted 
bread crumbs, mixed with butter, or with 
sugar alone, return to the oven with a 



Query 1869. — "Recipes for Chicken a la 
Terrapin and for Baking a Goose." 

Chicken a la Terrapin 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter in a 
saucepan ; add one-fourth a cup of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of paprika and half 
a teaspoonful of salt and stir until the 
flour and butter are bubbling through- 
out, then add a cup of chicken broth and 
half a cup of cream and stir until boil- 
ing; add a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley, two hard-cooked eggs, chopped 
rather fine, and one pint of cooked 
chicken, cut in half-inch cubes. Finish 
with a teaspoonful of lemon juice and if 
desired a tablespoonful of sherry. 

Baking a Goose 

Select a young goose about six pounds 
in weight. Singe, clean carefully, wash, 
and wipe dry. Cut oflf the feet and the 
head (but not the skin) on a line with 
the top of the breast bone, then truss as 
a turkey. If stuffing be desired, pass 
three or four fresh-boiled potatoes 
through a ricer; add an onion (chopped 
fine and cooked in a tablespoonful of 
butter), the yolks of two eggs, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, salt and pepper to 
season. Mix thoroughly, and use to fill 
the goose. Rub over with salt and pep- 
per, and set to cook in a hot oven. Baste 
with butter or salt-pork fat, and dredge 
with flour every ten minutes. Cook until 
the second joints separate easily from 
the body. Reduce the heat after twenty 
minutes. For sauce heat two' cups of 
consomme, reduced by cooking to one, 
with two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly 
and three tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. 
Half an hour before the goose is cooked, 
put eight, cored-and-pared, tart apples 
into a dish of hot syrup (a cup. each, of 
sugar and water) and let cook, turning 
frequently that they may retain their 
shape, until tender throughout. Dredge 



152 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the apples thick with granulated sugar, 
and set into the oven to glaze. When 
the goose is set on the platter, dispose 
the apples at the two sides of the dish, 
fill the centres of the apples with currant 
jelly, and put a few sprigs of cress be- 
tween them. 



Query 1870. — "Is it safe to mold gelatine 
mixtures, containing lemon or other acid or 
milk, in a tin mold and allow the mixture to 
stand in the mold overnight? Does an alum- 
inum dish affect a gelatine mixture containing 
milk or acid?" 

Tin and Aluminum INIolds for 

Acid Mixtures, Etc. 

Theoretically a tin or aluminum mold 
would not be selected for molding acid 
mixtures. We see no reason for object- 
ing to milk mixtures. In practice we 
know of no ill effects that have arisen 
from the use of clean, first-grade tin or 
aluminum molds used for acid jellies. 



Query 1871. — "Recipe for Dewberry Jelly." 

Dewberry Jelly 

Dewberries are not very rich in the 
jellying principle and, while sometimes 
they may produce a satisfactory jelly, it 
is safer to combine them with apples. 
To the juice from ten quarts of apples, 
use the juice of two quarts of berries. 
Let boil fifteen minutes, add the sugar, 
heated in the oven, and let boil till the 
mixture jellies. Use three-fourths a cup 
of sugar to one cup of juice. To obtain 
the juice, cook the apples and berries 
separately. Of course, the apples call 
for longer cooking than the berries. 
Probably less apples could be used and 
a jelly with more of the characteristics 
of the dewberries would result. We 
should not hesitate to try this, but give 
the above formula, because we have used 
it successfully. 



Query 1872.— "Recipe for Vinegar Pie." 

Vinegar Pie (Housekeeper Cook 
Book) 

Sift together half a cup, each, of sugar 



and flour; pour on one cup and a half 
of boiling water and cook and stir until 
boiling; add half a cup, each, of mo- 
lasses and vinegar, grated rind and half 
the juice of one lemon, and two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Let cool a little. 
Bake, in a plate lined with pastry, in the 
same manner as a custard pie. 



Query 1873. — "What is meant by the expres- 
sion Tunny Fish?" 

Tunny Fish ^ 

Thudichum says the tunny is a large- 1 
sized member of the mackerel family, 
taken mainly on the Mediterranean 
coasts. The fishermen call it "Chartists" 
veal because some parts have the taste 
and color of veal, and being fish could 
be eaten by Carthusian monks on ''lean" 
days. It is eaten fresh, salted and 
canned, or tinned. At the present time 
it is often canned without any prepara- 
tion or addition, but it was formerly 
grilled, then cooked in oil and finally in- 
fused with vinegar and oil, before tin- 
ning. 



Query 1874.— "Recipe for Sauce Melba, used 
for asparagus and cauliflower." 

Sauce Melba 

Chop fine a shallot, a branch of pars- 
ley, and a branch of chervil, add four 
tablespoonfuls of Chablis and let stand 
on the back of the range until the wine 
is partly evaporated ; add half a cup of 
butter, beaten to a cream, and the beaten 
yolks of three eggs ; cook over hot water, 
stirring constantly, and adding, from 
tim-e to time, tomato puree (well re- 
duced) until half a cup in all has been 
used. Season with one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and paprika, and 
finish with a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. Strain if desired. 



Query 1875.— "Recipe for Canned Carrots." 

Canned Carrots 

The carrots should not be too large; 
small ones are the best. Scrape and 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





GOOD Cocoa is the best beverage 
knovv^n to modern authorities on food and 
drink, nourishing, strengthening and a 
valuable aid to digestion. 

There is, however, a wide range in 
the Quality of cocoas. 

Lowney^s cocoa is made of the 

choicest cocoa beans without ''treat- 

^^ ments" or adulteration, and 

in a manner that insures 

the purest and best 

product possible. 

It is the best cocoa 
made. 

\ The Lowne^ Cook Book 
J 421 pages, $1,25. At 
\ all hook sellers 

The Walter M. 
~^ Lowney Co. 
Boston 



Cocoa-Chocolate 
Chocolate Bonbons 





Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
153 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



clean thoreughly. Cut in halves and 
pack in jars, then proceed as in canning 
asparagus, given in answer to Query 
1863. The time of cooking can not be 
given accurately; probably it will take 
from one hour and a half to two hours. 
Young carrots contain but a small per- 
centage of cellulose or starch and are 
easily canned. 



Query 1876. — "In ordering beef, lamb or 
pork for a- family, how much in weight should 
be ordered per capita? How much turkey in 
weight should be ordered for each person 
when neither soup, nor fish is to be a part 
of the meal?" 

Weight of Raw Meat Per 
Individual 

Half a pound of raw meat is deemed 
sufficient for each person when a large 
number of people are to be provided 
with meat, but, of course, this is subject 
to variations. When buying ribs of beef 
for roasting, half a pound would serve 
two people. A leg and shoulder of 
young lamb, boiled or roasted, would 
serve about twelve people. A yearling 
lamb would serve from fifteen to 
eighteen. Large turkeys are not always 
as economical as those of ten or twelve 
pounds in weight, the extra weight is 
often about the crop and neck and is not 
usable. A ten-pound turkey will pro- 
vide for fifteen or sixteen plates. 



Query 1877.— "Recipes for Swiss Steak, 
French Pancakes and Omelet au Beurre Noir." 

Swiss Steak 
Select a slice of round steak, cut about 
two inches thick. A steak from the top 
of the round is preferable. For a small 
family half of the slice will suffice for 
two meals. A full slice from heavy beef 
will weigh four or five pounds. Pound 
into the steak, on both sides, as much 
flour as it will take up (nearly one cup). 
The pounding is to break the fibers of 
the meat, the flour will take up the loos- 
ened juices which would otherwise be 
lost. Brown the meat on both sides in 
bacon or salt-pork fat, cover with boil- 
ing water and let simmer about two 



8 drops of vanilla es- 
sence 

4 drops of orange es- 
sence 

1 tablespoonful of Ja- 
maica rum 



hours. Peel an onion for each person 
to be served; let cook five minutes in 
boiling water, drain, rinse in cold water 
and set to cook around the meat. If 
preferred the onions may be sliced into 
the dish before the steak is put into it. 
If the meat is browned in an iron frying 
pan, finish the cooking in an earthen 
dish. The sauce around the meat is 
thick and brown. Mushrooms may be 
added to it. This steak may be served 
on a plank. 

French Pancakes, Filippini 

1 cup of sifted flour 

1 tablespoonful of 
powdered sugar 

2 whole eggs 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
li cups of cold milk I 

Break the eggs into the fiour, salt and 
sugar sifted together; add extracts etc. 
and the milk, gradually, and with a 
wire beat the whole together for 
five minutes. Pass it through a strainer 
into a small vessel and let it stand thirty 
minutes. Have a tablespoonful of melt- 
ed butter on a saucer. Brush a hot fry- 
ing pan, six inches in diameter (at the 
bottom) with butter; pour in three table- 
spoonfuls of butter (at once) and cook 
to a golden color — about one minute — 
turn and cook on the other side. Re- 
move to a hot plate, on one corner of the 
stove. Proceed in the same manner to 
make twelve cakes in all. Lightly dredge 
the top cake with fine sugar, roll it, 
dredge the outside with sugar and lay on 
a hot plate. Finish the others in the 
same way. 

Omelet au Beurre Noir 

The term au beurre noir, which means 
with nut-brown butter, is usually em- 
ployed with poached or fried eggs, but 
has the same meaning when applied to 
an omelet. Prepare the usual French 
omelet (yolks and whites beaten together 
until a full spoonful can be lifted) 
and turn on to a hot platter. Melt a 
tablespoonful of butter in a small sauce 
pan and let cook until well browned ; add 



154 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"Just add a dash 
before serving" 

It's really the secret of 
good cooking 




You can be sure of getting a real English Worcestershire 
Sauce when you buy Holbrookes— for every bottle is made in 
their original English factory and imported under seal. 

nolbrooKs oaucc 



Imported Absolutely 



ft 




HUB 



SEE 
SPECIAL' 

HUB 

FEATURES 

French Top 
Simplex Damper 
Arched Oven Top 
2-Piece Oven 

Bottom 
Roller Bearing 

COAL Pan 
Roller Bearing 
Ash Pan 

Have Heat on Five Sides 
of the Oven 

(Other ranges heat only 4 sides.) 
THE HUB FLUE makes only 4 

TURNS TO REACrf SMOKE PIPE. 

(Other range flues make 6 turns. ) 



Therefore — 33 1-3% less friction in 
HUB Flue and 25% more heat around 
HUB oven. This Flue Saves Fuel. 



M^DE Ijy( J\[EIV EJSIQL/JMP 
BEST 11^ THE WORLD 

SO EASY TO FEED 
THE FIRE FROM 
THE 

HUB 

.ROLLER BEARING 
COAL PAN 




Maaufactured by 

SMITH 4 ANTHONY CO., 

52-54 Union St., Boston, Mass. 

Sold by all leading dealers 
Send for Special Catalog "U" 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

155 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



eight or ten drops of vinegar and pour 
over the omelet. Sometimes the butter 
is poured over the article, then the vine- 
gar is added to the dish and then with 
the rinsing of butter, is poured over the 
omelet. 



Query 1878. — "Kindly suggest dishes suitable 
for luncheon for twelve nurses. Meat is not 
used at luncheon." 

Luncheon Dishes without Meat 

Cream of Corn Soup. 

Creamed Corn. 

Stewed Lima Beans. 

Succotash. 

Corn Custard. 

Mexican Rabbit. 

Tomato Rabbit 

String bean Salad (French dressing 
with onion juice). 

Macaroni, with Tomato and Cheese. 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Creamed Celery, with Poached Eggs. 

Green Peppers Stuffed with Cooked 
Rice or Macaroni, (Cheese, nuts, toma- 
toes, etc). 

Stuffed Tomatoes. 

Onions stuffed with Nuts, Cream 
Sauce. 

Scalloped Tomatoes with Nuts. 

Cheese Souffle. 

Eggs Aurora. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

French Omelet with Green Peas. 

Shredded Codfish Custard. 

Bread and Butter or quick rolls with 
each dish. 



Query 1879.— "Suggest hot dishes suitable 
for the supper of patients in a hospital. 
Something other than Creamed Chicken or 
lamb or souffles." 

Hot Supper Dishes 

Most of the dishes mentioned above 
are suitable for supper dishes. Among 
hot dishes the following might furnish a 
choice: Hot Chicken Salad; Hash, 
Creole style; French Hash; Tripe, 
Broiled or Creamed ; Shirred Eggs with 
Chicken; French Omelet, with Fresh 
Fish or Chicken; Turbans of Fish, 



Baked; Shepherd's Pie, (meat in sauce^ 
mashed potato above, browned in oven) 
Fresh Fish Chowder; Fillets of Fresh 
Fish, Baked in Milk; Finnan Haddie, 
Delmonico. 



Query 1880. — "Recipe for Eggs a la Aurora^ 
referred to in a menu mentioned in an article 
in McClure's Magazine." 

Eggs a la Aurora 
Pour a quart of boiling water over 
four eggs, cover and let stand on the 
back of the range where the water will 
keep hot without boiling, half an hour. 
Drain, cover with cold water and when 
cold remove the shells; separate the 
whites from the yolks and chop the 
whites. Make a cup of cream sauce of 
two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and 
flour, one-fourth a tablespoonful, each, 
of salt and pepper and a cup of rich 
milk. Toast from four to six slices or 
rounds of bread, dip the edges into 
salted, boiling water and spread lightly 
with butter. Stir the chopped whites 
into the sauce and spread evenly over 
the slices of toast, then pour the yolks 
through a sieve over the whole. Add a 
few sprigs of parsley and serve at once. 



Honesty 

Prudence and honesty are not neces- 
sarily synonymous terms. A man may 
cheat his neighbor and still remain within 
the limits of discretion. 

We should not be in such haste to 
thrive that we mistake expediency for 
justice. Many a man conforms strictly 
to the requirements of fair dealing when 
he knows that he is deahng with those 
who are able to detect and expose fraud, 
but does not hesitate to take advantage 
of ignorant or helpless people who fall 
in his way. Such a man is not honest; 
he is merely cautious. 

Honesty is that spirit of equity which 
deals with a child or a feeble-minded per- 
son as with an equal. We are honest 
when we make bargains with our fellow- 
men as though we were dealing with our- 
selves. — M . Franklin Ham. 



156 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



■ 4 



■^*a 



m 



..#*%|r" 



^ 



I f 



Tor a 

Glean 

Sweet 

Sanitary 



^^ 



ally other uses 
II directions on !a 
Wtercan 10^ 






Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
157 



New Bcokj 



The Life of Ellen H. Richards, By 
Caroline L. Hunt, Cloth; $1.50 
net, postage, .16, Boston: Whit- 
comb & Barrows. 
To many friends and acquaintances, as 
well as to women in general, this 
sketch of a busy and eventful life, which 
is almost an autobiography, will be of 
great interest. Mrs. Richards is to be 
regarded as a pioneer in many things 
and a leader among women throughout 
her life. She is numbered among the 
early graduates of Vassar, when that 
college was in process of formation, and 
a college education for women was 
thought by many to be something almost 
abnormal. She became the first woman 
to enter the Institute of Technology, or, 
for that matter, the first woman to enter 
any such strictly scientific school in the 
United States. With the Institute she 
rendered service in some capacity the re- 
mainder of her life. In course of time, 
she became prominently identified with 
the Home Economics Movement; and 
the last thirty years of her life were 
given to developing the ''science of con- 
trollable environment," for which she 
coined the name ''Euthenics." But in 
this volume is the narrative of a life that 
should be read in full. It will prove a 
source of inspiration to earnest women 
everywhere. 

The Fun of Getting Thin, By Samuel G. 
Blythe, Price 35 cents. Chicago ; 
Forbes & Co. 

"The Fun of Getting Thin," or "How 
to reduce the waist line," is a very read- 
able little brochure. In tone it is some- 
what humorous, and yet it is sensible and 
aims directly to the point. It describes 
the conditions of a man who was exces- 
sively fat and his method' of reduction, 
which proved a complete success, in one 
instance at least, that is, his own. His 
method is no fad. He came to the sensi- 
ble conclusion that superfluous fat is 



caused by an excess of food and drink, 
and that it can be taken off by a reduc- 
tion in those fat-makers. That is, "the 
only way to get rid of the effects of over- 
eating and overdrinking is to stop over- 
eating and overdrinking." This is simple 
enough, if one has the nerve to go 
through with it. In the writer's case, we 
are informed, he finally decided he could 
go to it, and he did. 

By many people who are in the same 
condition as the writer these three chap- 
ters are worth reading. Others may ap- 
preciate and profit by them. 

Pin-Money Suggestions, By Lillian M. 

Babcock, 12 mo. Cloth, $1.00 net, 

Boston : Little, Brown & Co. 

In this book the author has included 

about four hundred ways in which a 

woman can employ her spare time to 

good advantage. 

There are ideas for the one who is a 
good cook, who is an adept with her 
needle, who has a faculty for "growing" 
things, who has an artistic eye, in fact 
for the development of whatever special 
talent she may be endowed with. These 
suggestions have been tried with success, 
and wherever necessary exact directions 
and recipes are given. The book should 




Ordinary dusting scatters but does not 
remove dust and germs. Use cheese-cloth 
dampened with tepid water to which a httle 
Piatt'* Chlorides, the odorless disinfectant, 
has been added. Wring out till dry so that 
it will not streak the wood work, etc. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

158 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




1 





X ^ 



\5 



// w 



Satisfies 

There never was a thirst 
that Coca-Cola couldn't 
satisfy. 

It goes, straight as an ar- 
row, to the dry spot. 
And besides this. 



^' 




CCUi 



satisfies to a T 
the call for something 
purely delicious and deli- 
ciously pure — and whole- 
some. 

Delicious 
Refreshing 
Thirst- Quenching 



Free 



K 



Our new booklet, 
of Coca-Cola vindi- 
cation at Chattanooga, 
for the asking. 



Demand the Genuine 

as made by 

THE COCA-COLA COMPANY 

ATLANTA, GA. 



Whenever 

you see an 

Arrow think 

of Coca-Cola. 



iJ 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
159 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



prove an inspiration to thousands of wo- 
men whose hves are limited to the dreary 
monotony of housework, or who are 
compelled to restrict their activities to 
the confines of their own homes. Not 
only will it furnish many of them with 
congenial employment, but it will add 
money to their limited incomes. 

Certainly here are suggestions of ways 
in which a woman may display her activ- 
ities, and which go to show that where 
there is a will there is a way. The desire 
and the will, however, are of first im- 
portance. Each individual woman 
should learn to adapt herself to the con- 
ditions that environ her, to seize upon 
opportunities as they arise, and make the 
most of them. And this is all that can 
be expected of any one. 



Love of Work 

When President Faunce asked a Bos- 
ton audience of 800 not long ago how 



FOR LIVELY BOYS AND GIRLS 




RUBBER BUTTON 

HOSE SUPPORTER 

Has all the good features— secur- 
ity, neatness, ''handiness, 
and wear value. Buy it by 
name and be sure. 

Children's sample pair 16c. postpaid (give age) 

CEORCE FROST CO.. Makers. Boston. 

(Also makers of famous Boston Garter for Men.) 




many took pleasure in their work, only 
:0 held up hands. He professed surprise, 
but this may have been merely rhetorical. 
Academic halls are not nowadays so 
cloistered but that he must have noted 
liow few men strike for a longer work- 
ing day. A deal of hypocritical non- 
sense is written on the supposed duty of 
loving one's work. Once on a time a ten- 
der-hearted young woman from the city, 
seeing the farm horses straining at the 
plough, anxiously asked the farmer if 
they liked it. ''They don't have to like 
it," he grimly answered as he set a new 
furrow, "they just have to do it." This 
defines perfectly the case of man with 
respect to much of the work that has to 
be done. Somebody has to do it, but to 
insist on its being done with pleasure re- 
minds one of the Prussian king who used 
to drill his famous grenadiers with a big 
rattan, saying at every blow, "Love me, 
confound you, I want you to love me." 
There is much work that nobody shows 
real affection for, — work that the men 
who preach love of work would loathe 
beyond measure if they had to do it. 
Luckily there are men to w^hom it is less 
repellent, who will do it, and do it hon- 
estly, for wages. But to ask them to Hke 
it into the bargain is too much. 

Roughly speaking, we may divide man- 
kind into three classes, the men who like 
their work, the men who hate their work, 
and the much larger group of those who 
are indfferent. The first find life a para- 
dise, the second rind it an inferno, the 
third — that is to say, most people — find 
it just one blanked thing after another, 
"the long, straight road" which Stevenson 
called sober married life. The division 
is largely accidental, for it depends part- 
ly on the man, partly on the work, but 
more on the relation between the man and 
his job. No student of "scientific effici- 
ency" can afford not to know the chapter 
in "Tom Sawyer," in which the boys bid 
eagerly for the privilege of whitewashing 
the fence. What one wants to do is a 
luxury ; what one hates doing is a mar- 
tyrdom. Stevenson was amazed that 
artists should be paid, even badly, for 



I 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

160 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Good Butter Makes a Good Breakfast 



Here is a typical American Breakfast: 

Oatmeal, with butter {or cream) and sugar. Toast, buttered. 

Soft Boiled Eggs, with a lump of butter. Griddle Cakes, with butter. 

Millions of men begin their day's work on such a meal — Butter with every course. 

If the butter is not first class, the meal is spoiled, because the butter is everything. 
All the other good things depend upon it to make them appetizing. 
Meadow-Gold Butter meets every requirement. Its fine flavor never fails to tickle 
the palate and you know it is pure and wholesome, because it is made from good, rich 
cream that has been pasteurized. Three times wrapped in air-tight, water-proof 
papers to preserve its goodness. 

Makers and Distributors 
THE FOX RIVER BUTTER COMPANY 



Albany 
Atlanta 
Ausrusta 
Aurora 



Baltimore 
Birmingham 
Boston 
Buffalo 



Chicago 
Charleston 
Cincinnati 
Cleveland 



Jacksonville 
Memphis 
Newark 
New Orleans 



New York 
Norfolk 
Philadelphia 
Pittsburgh 



Richmond 
Rochester 
St. Louis 
Savannah 



Scranton 
Syracuse 
Tampa 
Washington 




TO DEALERS: 

Meadow- Gold Butter is 
fast becoming the But' 
ter of the Nation. Trade 
grows naturally. Write 
for particulars to near- 
est distributing house. 



THE CONTINENTAL 

CREAMERY COMPANY 

Oklahoma City, Okla. 

Pueblo, Colo. Topeka.Kans. 

THE LITTLETON 

CREAMERY COMPANY 

Denver, Colo. 



BEATRICE 
CREAMERY COMPANY 

Des Moines, la. 
Dubuque, la. Lincoln, Neb. 



'1 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
161 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



The flavor of many fruit 
extracts such as Orange, Rose 
or Almond may be much im- 
proved by adding a small quan- 
tity of Vanilla. 

Always use 

Burnett's 
Extracts 

Not only are they made from the 
choicest and purest ingredients, 
but they are also twice the 
strength of the standard set by 
the United States Department 
of Agriculture. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

BOSTON, MASS. 






Special Offer for Ice Tea Season 

$1.00 Tea for 80c Just to Introduce 




BRAND 



THE THREE MLNUTE " TEA 

Blended and 
packed for us in 
Colombo, Ceylon, 
inhermetically 
sealed, hand- 
somely li tho- 
graphed cans. 
Has a world-wide 
s a le — us e d by 
bestEnglish Clubs 
— and on every English Man-of-War. 

After you once try it, you will use no other. 
Send name and address of your grocer with 
stamps or check and we will ship you, prepaid 
as follows : 

1 lb. . . 80c 
1-2 lb. . . 45c 
1-4 lb. . . 25c 
Use the Tea one week— if it is not better than 
any you have ever used, return what is left and 
we will refund your money. 

McCORMICK & CO., Baltimore, Md. 
TEA IMPOKTERS AND PACKERS 



doing what gives such pleasure that the 
privilege of doing it ought to be paid for. 
There are no happier men, on the 
whole, than those who do the work they 
like, even at a pecuniary sacrifice. And, 
the more civilized the country becomes, 
the more will men have courage to follow 
their bent, even unprofitably, instead of 
turning automatically to the callings that 
yield most money or most social honor. 
No society has ever been so ordered that 
each man could do the thing he best likes. 
But no society can be happy or highly 
civilized when most men, even men of 
potential ability, are doing things they 
dislike. It has been urged, and not with- 
out plausibility, that the great ages of 
civilization, like the age of Shakespeare 
and the age of Michael Angelo, have been 
due not to a sudden increase in the intel- 
lect of man, but to conditions that set 
men in varied fields to doing with the 
utmost intensity and enthusiasm, not the 
thing that paid best, but the thing they 
most wanted to do. America is still too 
much enslaved to the thing that pays best, 
and no sermonizing on love of drudgery 
will mend matters. We have enough 
thousand-dollar men doing fifty-thousand 
dollar work; we need more fifty-thousand 
dollar men who will do thousand-dollar 
work because they enjoy it. For the 
worse paid work is often not merely the 
more pleasant, but instrinsically the more 
valuable. — Springfield Republican. 



Freedom of the Press 

**Well," said the editor, "the freedom 
of the press is a great privilege for the 
people ; but it has some rather startling 
aspects sometimes. Only this morning 
a tramp came in with a gleam of impu- 
dent fun in his eye. 

" 'Halloa, guv'ner !' he said. Ts this 
the Free Press office?' 

" Tt is my man,' said I. 'What can we 
do for you?' 

** 'Well, I want you to press creases 
into my trousis. They're gone out of 
shape. Got a room where I can wait ?' " , 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

162 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



ON EVERY 
PIECE 




iHEIBEY'Bi 



ON EVERY 
PIECE 








The pleasing' and attractive designs of 

Heisey' s^ Glassware 

together with its crystal-like clearness 

always make the table inviting and add 
savor to the food, k Quality and durahiliti/^ 
considered, Heisey s(^ Glassware is the lowest 
priced glassware^ viade. It is for sale 
only by the best crockery and department stores. 

Write for a free copy of our 
'' Handbook for the Hostess'' 

A. H. Heisey (| Co. 

Department 56 

Newark, Ohio 



w 



l353JUG 



ikJ 



351 
DECANTER 



N25 
CANDLESTICK 



1 
i 



,353 MARMALADE 



351 
J£LLY 



53 CRACKER 
CHEESE 34, rarfAIT 



^^355 
5 U G A R 8t CREAM ^'^'^t^ 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
163 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 





Beautiful 
Table Silver 

Knives, forks, spoons, 
serving pieces, etc., 
rich in quality 
and beauty, 
correct in 
fashion and good 
taste, and harmonizing per- 
fectly with the most daintily set 
table, are always to be had in 

1847 ROGERS BROS. 

'Siher Tlate 
that Wears 

Our beautiful new pattern. Old Colony, 
with its pierced handle and handsome 
decorative work, is suggestive of simplicity 
and quality. Appropriate for any time 
or place, it is ideal for Colonial and 
Old Ejiglish dining rooms. 

This silverware is backed by an actual 
test of sixty-five years, and is guar- 
anteed by the largest makers. For sale 
by leading dealers everywhere. 

Send for beautifully illustrated cata- 
logue "V-S." 

INTERNATIONAL SILVER CO. 

Successor to Meriden Britannia Co. 

MERIOEN. CONN. 




She Followed Directions 

Dr. Woods Hutchinson was once call- 
ed upon by a young matron who had 
read his article on "Fat and its Follies" 
in a popular magazine, and wanted him 
to help her get rid of some of her fat. 
After a few questions he handed the 
lady a diet list, telling her to come back 
in two weeks. The good doctor's con- 
sternation can scarcely be imagined when 
he saw his patient again. She weighed 
twenty pounds more. He was puzzled. 
His list contained no sweets of any kind, 
nor any fat producers ; yet it was putting 
flesh on at an enormous rate. 

''You are sure that you ate the things 
on the list?" the doctor questioned se- 
verely. 

''Yes, Doctor," was the firm answer. 

"What else did you eat?" — as a sudden 
inspiration seized him. 

"Why, nothing but my regular meals," 
was the indignant answer. 



"Quite recently," said a writer in the 
Green Bag, "a woman asked for a war- 
rant against a man for using abusive 
language in the street. 'What did he 
say?' asked the magistrate. 'He went 
foreninst the whole world at the corner 
of Capel Street, and called me — yes, he 
did, yer wuship, — an ould, excommuni- 
cated gasometer !" 



One day Mr. Tom Corwin met a politi- 
cal opponent with whom he promptly fell 
into a discussion, in the course of which 
he constantly referred to the Whig party 
as if it were still in existence. "Don't 
you know the old Whig party is dead?' 
at last exclaimed his acquaintance, with 
evident irritation. "Horace Greeley 
killed it, and it's dead and buried." Cer- 
tainly," said Mr. Corwin, with much 
solemnity, "and I am one of its graves, 
sir, and not to be trampled on!" 



"It's all very well for the ministry 
preach from the text, 'Remember Lot' 
wife'," said an overworked, discourage 
matron, "but I wish he would now give us 
an encouraging sermon upon the wife's 
lot." — Lowell Courier. 



t^nh 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
164 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



r 



'7f Saves 
the Delicious Aroma 

Haste will never rob your morning coffee of its delicious 

aroma if it is made in a Manning-Bowman 

Percolator. Making is simplicity itself. A little 

less finely ground coffee than you'd need in .„ . 

an ordinary pot— the right measure of water 

for the number of cups you wish, and then 

— no further thought till you're seated at 

table and ready. 

TVTanning- 
Bo>vtnan 

Coffee Percolators 





work automatically as long" as heat is applied. Coffee is made in this perfect way- 
starting with cold water— as quickly as in an ordinary coffee pot with hot water. 
More than 100 styles and sizes of these coffee percolators on the market— in solid 
copper, nickel plate, aluminum and silver plate. We illustrate urn style No. 3394 and coffee 
pot style No. 9092. For sale at leading dealers. Write for free recipe book and catalogue No. J- 

MANNING. BOWMAN & CO., Meriden, Conn. 

Also makers of Manning -Bowman Chafing Dishes with "Ivory" Enameled Food 
Pans. Eclipse Bread Makers, Alcohol Gas Stoves, Tea Ball Tea Pots, Chafing 
Dish Accessories, Celebrated M & B Brass, Copper and Mckei ii'oiish, also Electric 
Percolators and Chafing Dishes. 



^ 



^i 



Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish Dabities 

By Mrs. JANET McKENZIE HILL, Editor The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

A New and Revised Edition. 
Profusely Illustrated. 

230 pa^es. Price, $1.30 

SALADS and chafing-dish dainties are destined to receive in lh« 
future more attention from the progressive housekeeper than has at 
yet been accorded to them. In the past their composition and con« 
sumption has been left chiefly to that portion of the community " who 
cook to please themselves." But since w^omen have become anxious 
to compete with men in every walk of life, they, too, are desirous to 
become adepts in tossing up an appetizing salad or in stirring a 
creamy rarebit. The author has aimed to make it the most practical and 
reliable treatise on these fascinating branches of the culinary art that has 
yet been published. Due attention has been given to the a b c of the subjects, and great care 
exercised to meet the actual needs of those who wish to cultivate a taste for palatable and whole- 
some dishes, or to cater to the vagaries of the most capricious appetites. TTie illustrations are 
designed to accentuate, or make plain, a few of the artistic effects that may be produced by 
various groupings or combinations of simple and inexpensive materials. 

We will mail "Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties," postpaid, on receipt 
of price, $ 1 .30, or as a premium (or three new yeeurly subscriptions to the magcizine. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

' BOSTON, MASS. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
165 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Always pure, fresh acd sweet. Readv for use— no picking 
or c joking. The original delicate sea flavor fully retained. 
1 hirty recipes to choose from in our FREE CRAB BOOK 

The PEARLY GRAY COLOR OF McMENAMlN'S is abso 
lutely proof that no bleaching or chemicals are used. 
On the Pure Food Roll of Honor 

We use onl y the fattest and liveliest crabs from the waters 
of the historic Hampton Roads and pack them within a few 
hours after thev are taken from the water. 

MS MENAMIN'S 

DEVILED CRABS 

bakedin the original shells (furnished free by all grOTT' 
with each can of McMenamin's ) make the most dainty and 
savory dish you can serve. 

A No. 1 can of McMENAMlN'S six large 
delicious deviled crabs — ideal for lunches, 
suppers, outings, picnics, etc. 

Sold by leading grocers everywhere 
in hermetically sealed. Double Coated 
cans. Two sizes, No 1 and No 2. 
You need the • -CRAB BOOK." Free 
upon request— contains many recipes 
for crab stews, crab bakes, crab fries, 
crab salads, etc. Send for it now. 
McMFNAMIN & CO., Inc. 

Established 1878 

125 Victoria A¥.,Hampton,Va. 




MRS. HILL'S 
COMPLETE COOK BOOK 




©©®®© 



Over 700 Page* Illustrated Price $2.00 Net 

Will be sent postpaid, on receipt 
of $2.00, or to any address as a 
premium for four (4) yearly subscrip- 
tions to the magazine at $ 1 .00 each 
Address all orders to 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Pupils Form a Good Health Club 

The pupils of an Alabama school have 
organized among themselves a Good 
Health Club, and have adopted the fol- 
lowing as their membership pledge : 

*T promise: 

''1. To be as regular in my duties as 
I can, to rise at the same hour, retire at 
the same hour, eat my meals at the same 
hour each day and not to eat between 
meals. 

'*2. Never to sleep in a room without 
having at least one wide-open window. 

''3. To choose food that is nourishing 
and to stop eating when I have enough. 

"4. To drink at least eight glasses of 
water each daj^ two- before breakfast 
and two before dinner, two after school 
and two before retiring. 

*'5. To walk and sit with head and 
shoulders well up and chest expanded. 

"6. To fill my lungs with fresh air 
before each meal. 

"7. To spend as much time in the sun- 
shine as possible each day. 

*'8. To avoid strong' stimulants of any 
kind. 

"9. To brush my teeth every night 
and morning. ^ 

''10. To bathe frequently so as to keep 
all the pores in my body open." 

This is a capital idea. We should like 
to see a Good Health Club in every city 
and village in the United States. 



Betsey, an old colored cook, was moan- 
ing around the kitchen one day, when her 
mistress asked her if she was ill. "No, 
ma'am, not 'zactly," said Betsey. "But 
the fac' is, I don't feel ambition 'nough 
to git outer my own way." — Exchange. 



Dr. Wines, principal of a boys' school, 
one day had occasion to cane a boy, and, 
it is to be supposed, did the work very 
thoroughly. The lad took his revenge in ! 
a way that the doctor himself could not <. 
help laughing at. Dr. Wine's front door | 
bore a plate on which was the one word | 
"Wines." The boy wrote an addition in 
big letters, so that the inscription ran, , 
"Wines and other Hckers." — Sporting] 
Life . 
166 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Rr^fessor^^lyn pays a signal iribuiefo 

WHITiHOUSE COFFEE 



l¥ 



/ 



\ 



If YOU value such superb 
quality and purity as we 
have always justly claimed 
for our splendid coffee, 
this testimonial by Pro- 
fessor Allyn should dispel 
any possible lingering 
doubt and make you inter- 
lested in "White House" 
to the point of purchase. 

Comes in 1, 2 & 3 lb. tin cans only 

YOUR GROCER HAS IT 
OR CAN EASILY 
PROCURE IT FOR YOU. 

9 



d: 


F 


F 


E 


Lewis B. 


ALJ.VN 



January Twenty, 1912 

0winell-f right Cbapa.-.y. 
Boston, "Uass. 

Meredith please find the analysis 
cf a Faaple of your White House Coffee 
purchased in the open aa^icet. 

Tc regard this coflee. as a product 
-t" the KIGH2SI GKADS- and' have" accord- 
ingly placed it in our PERUANEKT EIHI- 
BIIIOM or PURE FOOaS. a POSIXIOH 0? 
liOROH Tr.zSr. : : MERITS. 



x.s.a££^^. 



Cheaist for t'r.'.- B.ard of Health. 



PRINCIPAL 

COFFEE 

ROASTERS 



DWINELL-WRIGHTCO 



BOSTON 1 1 I I 

AND i! ; , ; - 

CHICAGO II III 



«BL-ili-ij 



jf^AT/^^^y^ >2>^/^<a/5' 




10<t VANILLA 10* 

PREPARED BY 

THE JUNKET FOLKS 
QttHansenslaboratofjr. Uttk Ialls,NX 



ii 



• • : 



I ^ Have You Tried 
the New Dessert? 

! HERE'S THE PACKAGE 



'.■••uk','. 

liij 



p 



Its appeal is twofold — quickly 
made and delicious. Made with 
milk it is a rich, creamy dessert 
good enough to "set before the 
king." 

Nesnah as a food-dessert takes 
special place. Nothing quite so 
good and at the same time so 
nutritious and healthful. 

NINE FLAVORS: 
Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Maple, 
Orange, Pistachio, Raspberry, Vanilla 



It LOOKS Good 
It TASTES Good It IS Good 



V 



Made by the Junket Folks 

CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
167 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



SEND us two NEW yearly 
Subscriptions at $1.00 each and 
we will renew your own sub- 
scription one year free, as pre- 
mium, 
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



RELIABLE EGG PRESERVATIVE 

Send 25c. (silver or stamps) for recipe for 
keeping eggs fresh six months or longer. 
Address 

"Reliable," General Delivery, Syracuse, N. Y, 



SONG POEMS WANTED 

Vnil '"^^ ^^ ^^^^ *** write a big seller. Hundreds of 
lUU dollars have been made in Buccessful songs. Send 
ps your WORDS or MELODIES. Acceptance guaranteed 
if available. Washington only place to secure copyright. 
H. Kirkus Dugdale Co., Desk 225, Washington, D. C. 



rhete trade-OMrk cil^cross li 

CRESOmfl 

KIDNEY AND LIVENRW 

Makes de^ous\iQs 
Onlike other ^ds. ^^ 


y& on £very packa^^ 
lipr DIET FOR 
Ull DYSPEPTICS 

S^S AND OBESITY 

rroSL. For book 

ieTGwl^N.Y..U.$.A. 





DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Home-St\Jidy Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
makers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100 page handbook, 
FUJB^. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles," 48 pages, 10 cents. " Food Values: Practical 
Methods in Dietetics," 52 pp. ill., 10 cents. 

American School of Home Economics, 503 W. 69th St. Chicago, III. 




The Yale Fruit Press 

is something that will be a vital issue 
this season in almost every home. What 
woman wants to make jelly without a 
fruit press ? In the first place she hasn't 
strength of hands to get the juice and 
flavor all out of the materials. This 
only yields under great pressure. The 
Yale Fruit Press is in- 
dispensable for making 
Jellies, Jams, Grape 
Juice, Wine, Water 
Ices, Frappes, etc. 
An extra elongated 
- -^ spout is pro- 
vided also 
^ for stuffing 
'' sausage cas- 
,, ings. The 
Yale Fruit 
Press is 
— made with 

the colan- 
der fitting inside cylinder. Materials to be 
pressed are placed in the colander in a 
cotton bag. The beam is fixed in posi- 
tion and crank attached to wheel oper- 
ating on the screw principle. With a 
few turns of this wheel, requiring no 
great strength, enormous pressure vary- 
ing from 2,000 to 3,000 pounds is placed 
upon the contents of the cylinder. 

Appliance is made of iron and steel 
plates. In three sizes, from 2 qt. to 8 qt. 

A gentleman once asked a lawyer 
what he could do, provided he had 
loaned a man $500 and the man left the 
country without sending any acknowl- 
edgments. ''Why, that's simple: just 
write him to send an acknowledgment 
for the $5,000 you lent him, and he will 
doubtless reply, stating it was only $500. 
That will suffice for a receipt, and you 
can proceed against him if necessary." 
— Harper s Round Table. 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

168 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



■^^k. 



There's a ckance 
for many a slip 
'Iwixt the cluster and* 
lip. You avoid taking* 
chances when you g*et 




Welch's 



The National Drinh 

Grape Juice 




OrXTr^ us two NEW yearly Subscriptions at $1.00 each and we will re- 
►^■L-*'!' ^ •L-' new your own subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Bcton. Ma«.achu.ett. 




Mudge Patent Canner 

A Kj-jsehold Necessity 

Quickest, simplest, cleanest and most economical 
method of canning fruits and vegetables. 

JOHN L. GAUMER CO. 

N. E. Cor. 22d and Wood Streets 
PHILADELPHIA. PA. 



YALE PRESS 



FOR making jellies, jams, 
^rape juice, wine, water 
ices, frappes; also for 
lard, meat, jellies, stuff' 
in§ sausages, etc. 

No woman has the strength 
to press fruits with her hands, 
besides without a press you lose 
fully one-half your fruit or 
meat juice and nearly all the 
flavor which oiJy great pressure 
brings out. 

The YALE is light, strong, 
clamps instantly to any table 
or shelf. Place cotton bag filled 
with materials in cylinder, fix 
beam in position, and with a 
few turns of the wheel you put 
contents under more than 2,000 
pounds pressure. Double cylinder, easily cleaned, never 
wears out. A superior, patented, sanitary and instantly 
detachable spout for stuffing sausages, furnished free with 
each press. 

In three sizes — 2 quart $3.50; 4 quart $4.50; 8 quart 
$6.95. Sold on 10 days' trial. Money back 
guarantee. 

Write for FREE Booklet, "Aunt Sally's Best Recipes," 
also describes press. 

VICTOR M. GRAB & CO., 

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers, 
1162 Ashland Block Chicago, 111. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
169 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



TRAINING Fi INSTITUTIONAL WORK 

A one-year course prepares women of maturity, 
fitted by personality and experience for such 
work, for institutional housekeeping of different 
kinds, including lunchroom management. 

TUITION FOR ONE YEAR, $86 
Term Opens September 30, 1912 

The opportunities for trained women are many 
and salaries are good. 

Write for Catalogue to 

SCHOOL OF HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE AND ARTS 

PRATT IHSTITUTE, BROOKLYN, NEW TORK 




MAGIC COVER 



idagic Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling: Pin ; chemically 
t^^eated and hyerienic: recommended by leading teachers o! 
eooking. By mail. 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

Hmerly of F. A. WALKEB & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store In New Engiane 
410 Rovlston St.. Boston, Mass. 



1 

QPKTr^ us two NEW yearly Subscriptions at 
»^-L-*i ^ A-^ $1 .00 each and we will renew your own 
subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



Lessons In CooKing 



THROUGH 

PREPARATION OF MEALS 

Beginners easily become experts, experts get latest 
methods and ideas in our new home study course. 260 
graded lessons, illustrated, I2 Parts, each containing a 
week's menu, suitable for rne month in the year, with 
detailed recipes and full directions for preparing and 
serving each meal as a whole. 

Food Economy, Nutritive Value, Balance Diet, 
Menus for All Occasions, Helpful Sufijestions, 

Special Articles, Etc. 
Till ^Pni "^n I. itroductory half tuition, 50c a 
llIA o<:^|H. sJV month for a year, or in full $5 00 
"—— "^■~— '""■^'~ cash in advance. Send 50c in stamps 
for first 21 Lessons. Money returned if not satisfactory, 
Sample pages free. 

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 
903 W. 69th St., Chicago. 



Dr. Mutchmore, formerly editor of the 
Presbyterian, told once of a good colored 
man who was engaged in blasting a rock 
near his residence in Kentucky. After 
a fierce explosion that shook the house, 
the doctor went out to remonstrate 
against such earthshaking charges, and 
said to the colored man : ''What are 
you about ? At this rate you will blow us 
all into the air." "Well, boss," said he, 
"I rammed down on that powder a piece 
of the Presbyterian. I wanted to show 
the folks around yer what Calvinism 
could do." — The Evangelist. 



You have friends? Yes. Do they 
choose you, or do you choose them ? 
What, you never thought of that? You 
took for granted, did you, that each 
chose the other? Or that it just hap- 
pened that you became friends? Prob- 
ably it did not "just happen." Usually 
one chooses and the other is chosen, — 
not always, but usually. A cynical 
French writer has said, "Marriage is a 
relationship where one loves and the 
other consents to be loved." A base sug- 
gestion that, with only a fractional 
truth inside, and only fractionally 
true when applied to friendships 
other than marriage. Still, almost any 
friendship will bear examination; and 
the best time to examine it is before 
it begins, while it is only acquaintance- 
ship; i.e., while it is in the pupa state, 
and before it spreads wings. In fact, the 
scientific method is appHcable to most 
companionships, and you can apply it 
under the guidance of the Golden Rule. 
You can sincerely weigh another's un- 
folding friendship for you, as you would 
wish that other to weigh yours. True, 
sound friendships should blossom in the 
heart, but they should be rooted in the 
head. 



SAMPLE 



Used by Leading Chefsand 



GIVES 
A DEUCIOUS 
FLAVOR AND 
RICH COLOR 
TO SOUPS, 
SAUCES, 
GRAVIES^ 

•ETC 



^UQUET 



Eminent Teachei^QfQjokciy. 



afHE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 CLINTON AVE.WEST HOBOKEN.N«Jc 

Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 

170 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



^Lc 



lowon 



*i* 



Peach Short Cake 

A well made Peach Short Cake is a de- 
lightful dessert. Where perfectly ripe and 
mellow, fresh peaches cannot be had, the 
canned fruit is about as good. To get a 
rich, crisp, and fine-flavored crust, use 



< 




«*C'-^ 



BORDEN'S EAGLE BRAND 
CONDENSED MILK 




Recipe for Peach Short Cake 

4 tablespoons Borden's 2 cups flour 

Condensed Milk 1 teaspoon baking powder 

^ cup water Pinch of salt 

1 heaping tablespoon butter 

Mix and sift flour, baking powder and salt; rub into it butter 
and mix lightly with the milk diluted with the water. This will 
make a soft dough, which spread on a buttered pie tin. Bake 
twenty minutes in a quick oven. Split, and fill with sliced 
peaches that have been sweetened to the taste, and cover with 
whipped fresh cream. 

Write for Borden's Recipe Book 



BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK CO. 

Est. 1857 "Leaders of Quality" New York 



30II0C 



30 




Standard 

ROTARY 

Central Needle 
Sit Straight 
Sewing Machine 

^ It is the greatest invention that has 
taken place in Sewing Machines with- 
in the last quarter of a century. 
^ It has been adopted by the public 
schools throughout the country, be- 
cause of its health preserving features. 
^ It is two machines in one, for it 
sews both lock and chain stitch. 



F. C. HENDERSON CO., Boston, Mass. 

Factory Sellin({ A|{ents 

Write our nearest agency for booklet and easy terms 



Shepherd, Norwell Co., Boston John Wanamaker, New York 

Sibley, Lindeev & Curr, Rochester John Wanamaker, Phila. 

Joseph Home Co., Pittsburg Thr. May Co., Cleveland 

L. S. AyreB& Co., Indianapolia Dey Bros. Co , Syracuse 

Stix, Baer & Fuller, St. Louis S. Kann Son8& Co., Washinston 
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit John A. Roberts & Co., Utica, N.Y. 
Forbes & Wallace, Springfield E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 

Lion Dry Goods Co., Toledo Erie Drv Goods Co., Erie 

The Shepherd Co , Providence, R. I. A. B. &\V.. Salem, Mass. 
Burrows & Sanborn, Lvnn Ilochschild, Kohn & Co, Baltimore 
Denholm & Mckay Co.. Worcester W. M. Whitnev & Co, Albany 
J. N Adam & Co., Buffalo Boggs & Buhl, Alleghany 

Stewart Dry Goods Co.. Louisville The Rike-Kumler Co., Davton 
L. Bamberger & Co., Newark Marshall Field & Co., Chicago 




BEAUTIFUL DINING ROOMS 

CLEAN SANITARY KITCHENS 

SPOTLESS WALLS AND 

GENERAL ATTRACTIVENESS RESULTS WHEN 

PLASTERGON WALL BOARD 

Is used in Building or Remodelinif 

Plaaten'on is vermin proof as well as fire and sound retarding. 

Where ihis wonderful wall board (the only successful substi- 
tute for lath and plaeter) is used, the rooms are Cooler in sum- 
mer and Warmer in winter. This is proved by actual test. 
The result is smaller coal bills during the Winter months and 
cooler rooms in Summer. 

Anyone can put Piastergon on. It may be applied to the stud- 
ding or nailed on over the lath and plaster of old rooms. 

The panel designs that may be obtained by using Piastergon 
are many and beautiful. 

IN A WORD 

Piastergon as an interior finish for homes, offices, factories, 
summer cottages or public buildings of any kind, has never been 
iqualled for beauty, economy and elhcien'cy. 

Piastergon is manufactured in Tonawanda, New York, by the 
Piastergon Wall Board Companv. 

'•The Service Department " will furnish you, free of charge, 
compleie design and estimate for your building or remodellin?. 

Distributed throughout the New England States by J. A- & W. 
Bird & Co., 88 Pearl St., Boston, Mass. ,„,, 

Write to-dav and ask them for sample and full information, 
or if not in that territory, send direct to manufacturers. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
171 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 







^^llE^^-e-Cri-^cgS 



.'M««<saSl 










GENUINE FRENCH SARDINES 
in PURE OLIVE OIL 

No healthier food obtainable 
Ask for the 

FRENCH SANITARY TIN 

Finest Quality 
Low Priced 

Hygienic, Practical Package 

For sale in Boston by 
Fir«t Class Grocers and Delicatessen Dealers 

MEYER & LANGE, New York 
Sole Agents 



DR. WILEY ON BREAD 
" Measured by actual nutritive power, 
there is no other complete ration which in 
economy can compare with bread." 

EAT BREAD MADE WITH 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Write for Recipe Book— FREE 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



Koumys 

Koumys is especially recommended 
for the use of those who cannot assimi- 
late milk in its natural state. It was 
originally made from mare's milk, but 
a very healthful palatable and refresh- 
ing drink can be easily made by follow- 
ing these directions: 

Heat 2 quarts of milk to blood heat 
(100°). Add half a cake of Fleisch- 
mann's Yeast and 2 tablespoonfuls su- 
gar dissolved in a little warm water. 
Let stand for 2 hours, then bottle and 
stand for 6 hours in a moderately warm 
room; then place on ice. Koumys will 
keep four or five days if kept cold, but 
it is better if made' fresh daily. 



It is told of a popular attorney that 
he recently called upon another brother 
of the profession, and asked his opin- 
ion upon a certain point of law. The 
lawyer to whom the question was ad- 
dressed drew himself up, and said, "I 
generally get paid for what I know." 
The questiortfer drew half a dollar from 
his pocket, handed it to the other, and 
coolly remarked, "Tell me all you know, 
and give me the change." — Observer. 



A popular Boston doctor tells this 
story of his active nine-year-old boy. 
Not long ago his teacher kept him after 
school, and had a serious talk with him. 
Finally, she said, "I certainly shall have 
to ask your father to come and see me." 
''Don't you do it," said the boy. The 
teacher thought she had made an im- 
pression. **Yes," she repeated, "I must 
send for your father." "You better 
not," said the boy. "Why not?" in- 
quired the teacher. " 'Cause he charges 
$3 a visit." 




TANGLEFOOT, The Original Fly Paper 



— ' ^' — -^ ^ ^ ^ ^ y __,^ ^ ^ 

Has one-third more sticky compound than any 
other ; hence is best and cheapest 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
172 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"The Perfection of Olive Oil." 



RAE'S 

LUCCA 



OIL 



In Tuscany, which is justly called the " Garden of 
Italy," the Very Finest Olive Oil for eating purposes is 
made, and is generally known and described in commerce 
as Lucca Oil ; it cannot be equalled much less surpassed, 
by anything produced in the rest of Italy or France." 

S. Rae & Co., of Leghorn, Guarantee their Finest 
Sublime Lucca Oil to be absolutely Pure Olive Oil of 
Superlative Quality: — the produce of Tuscan Olive 
Yards only. 



ilUCCAO^ 



SOLD IN BOTTLES AND TINS OF VARIOUS 
SIZES BY FIRST - CLASS GROCERS 



An Illustrated Pamphlet 
"The Olive in Tuscany" 

will be mailed you on request 



JAMES A. HAYES & CO. H 



Agents and Importers 

941 Commercial St., Boston 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
173 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



PAPER B AG C OOKERY 

The Very Latest Thin^ in Gookin^ — and a Success Too ! 

The method of cooking well nigh everything but soups in paper bags, on a broiler, in any and 
every kind of oven is clearly and fully explained in his book, by M. Soyer, the famous chef of 
Brooks's Club, London, the originator and perfecter of this system which bids fair to revolutionize 
cooking the world over. d. The American edition has been revised by Marion Harland's dai:^hter, 
Mrs. Virginia Terhume Van de Water. 

ADVANTAGES OF THIS SYSTEM. 

It makes Food more Savory and Nutritious. It is Labor Saving. 

It is Economical. No Smell of Cooking. 

Olir Of f <*r • ^^ ^''^ ^^"^ "Paper Bag Cookery," by M. Soyer, postpaid, for 65 cents. 

^^""^ v^i-i-ca ■ -^g ^j]| sen(j g, package of 30 bags, assorted sizes, postpaid, for 45 " 

or both to any present subscriber, postpaid, as a premium for sending us two New Yearly Subscriptions at $1.00 each. 



TKe Boston CooKing ScKool Magazine, 



Boston, Mass. 



PREMIUMS FOR SEVEN SUBSCRIPTIONS 

To any present subscriber who sends us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $1 .00 each, vm 
will send either the CHAFER or the CASSEROLE (both for 14 subscriptions) de* 



Our Offer! 



scribed below as a premium for securing and sending us 
the subscriptions. Elxpress charges to be paid by the 



Every- One "WKo Has Received One 

of tHese CKaiin^ DisHes Has 

Been Delig'Kted With It 

and surprised how easily the necessary subscriptions 
were secured. Have you obtained one yet? If not, 
start today to get the subscriptions, and within three or 
four days you will be enjoying the dish. 

The Chafer is a full-size, three pint, nickel dish, with 
all the latest improvements, including handles on the hot 
water pan. It is the dish that sells for 1^5.00. 







Long slow cooking, at a gentle heat, 
best conserves the nutritive elements 
of food and the flavors that render it 
most agreeable. The earthen Casserole 
makes this method possible. Then, 
too, the Casserole is the serving as 
well as the cooking dish. The house^ 
keeper who is desirious of setting a 
pleasing table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money will find 
a Casserole almost indispensable. 




.Address 



The Casseroles We Offer 

are made by one of the leading man- 
ufacturers of tlie country for their 
regular trade. The dish is a three- 
pint one, round, eight inches in dia- 
meter, fitted with two covers, (an 
earthenware cover for the oven and a 
nickel plated one for the table) and 
a nickel plated frame. It is such an 
outfit as retails for five or six dollars. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
174 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Korr7let 



Soup 



Madam : We want you to know 
about a most delicious prepara- 
tion of green corn which is very 
fine for soups. 

It is not canned corn. There is 
'hull" or other coarse matter 

in it. It is made by a special 
process which elimi- / 
nates all indigesti- 
ble substances. 



It is simply and solely the rich, creamy 
"MILK" of green corn— the nutritious part 
-the part that gives it flavor and sweetness. 
This splendid article of food is sold under 
the name KORNLET. You can eret it all the 
year round, and any time— and all the time- 
winter or summer— yoa can have most ap- 
petizing and delicious soups that taste ,- 
just like real green corn. Get a can 
and try it— the recipe is on the can. 
Write for daijjtyKornlet recipe book. 

JHE HASEROT CANNERIES CO. 
Cleveland, Ohio. 



r 



A Competent 
Servant 

Always at Your 
Conunand 




gLECTDo 

jSi Silver Polish ^ 

Silicon 

It quickly Cleans and Polishes SIL- 
VERWARE and all fine metals, and 
restores their natural brilliant lustre 
and beauty — all without the least 
scratching or wearing. Easy to 
use ; economical and effective. Free 
from acids and chemicals. The 
^andard of merit for over 40 years. In- 
si^ on the genuine. Send address for 
FREE SAMPLE 

Or. 15c. in stamps for fn 1 1 sized box. post-paid. 

The Electro Silicon Co., 30 Cliff Street. New York. 

Sold by Grocers and Druggists Ever>-A\'here. 



PREIVIIUMS 



THE goods offered here are not so called premium goods, but are of standard 
make and are the identical pieces found in the best jewelry and house fur- 
nishing stores. ^ We offer these only to present subscribers for securing and 
sending us new yearly subscriptions at $1.00 each. 




Sixteen inch plank and nickel plated holder. For meat 
or fish, but not for both with the same plank. 

The food is cooked on the plank, and th^ plank placed 
in the holder just before serving. 

This is one of the handsomest and most useful table 
pieces ever devised. 

Would make a suitable wedding or Christmas present, 
and there is no woman in the land who would not be 
proud to posses this. 

Sent, express collect, for eight (S) subscriptions. 

An additional plank will be sent as premium for two 

(.2) additional subscriptions. Then you have 

one plank for meat and one for fisb. 

ADDRESS 




Almost everyone nowadays uses a coffee 
percolator. If you do not, here is a chance 
to get a good one. 

Three pint Alluminum Percolator of the 
very best make. None better — only larger. 

Sent, ex^press collect, for six (6) 
subscriptions. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass, 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
175 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




The spirit ithich inspires the 



INSPIRATION 



jilways is it faith in someone or something 
that inspires us to lift our work above the 
commonplace. 

IT is the confidence which even the 
humblest worker in the Ivorydale fac- 
tories has in the product he helps to 
make that is the basis of the superiority 
of Ivory Soap. 

It is the knowledge that his efforts are given 
to an article worth while which inspires him 
to do his best. 



It is the certainty that the soap which he 
helps to produce is the purest and most 
economical, the soap that is doing the great- 
est good in the world, which enables him 
to look beyond the drudgery of the moment 
and see his labor glorified. 

And as his thousands of fellow-workers share 
the same inspiration, it is but natural that 
Ivory Soap should be the embodiment of 
the Spirit of Cleanliness. 



Illustration copyright,. 1912, by The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
176 



Dishes for Halloween Spreads 



Creamed Oysters in Green Peppers 

Scalloped Oysters in Individual Shells 

Oyster Salad in Cabbage Shell 

Cabbage-and-Xut Salad 

Potato Salad in Green Pepper Cups 

Potato Salad in Pimentos 

Cabbage-and-Pimento Salad 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin 

Cold Pickled Tongue, Sliced Thin 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Ham Sandwiches 

Sardine Sandwiches 

Cottage Cheese-and-Pimento Sandwiches 

Brownie Canapes 

French Doughnuts 

Orange Doughnuts, Surprise 

Yeast Doughnuts, Sugared 

Ginger Snaps 

Pfeffer Xeuse 

Hermits 

Cream Cakes, Chocolate Filling 

New York Gingerbread 

Coffee 

Ginger Ale-and-Mint Punch 

Apples Nuts Grapes Peanut-Brittle 

Pop Corn Balls Toasted Marshmallows 




[By courtesy of Houghton Mifflin Company) 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XVII 



^ 



OCTOBER, 1912 



No. 3 



Pictures in the Home and Home Pictures 



By Estelle M. Hurll 



IN furnishing a home, the pictures 
are an important element, deserv- 
ing the most careful consideration. 
Wt ought to regard them as necessi- 
ties, rather than luxuries, as an integral 
part of the decorative scheme, rather 
than a mere afterthought or finishing 
touch. A great deal of thought should 
be given to their selection and arrange- 
ment, if we would have an ideal home. 
For, as a matter of fact, the pictures 
are the first thing to attract the atten- 
tion on entering a room. Hanging on a 
level with the face, they catch the eye 
'^before we see any article of furniture. 
And in this first glance we have an im- 
mediate clue to the taste of the occu-^ 
pant. A beautiful picture ennobles the 
meanest surroundings as a poor picture,, 
cheapens, the richest furniture. I re- 
member well a delightful call I once 
had in what seemed to me one of the 
most beautiful rooms I had ever seen. 
Two exquisite paintings hung on the 
wall, the work of my hostess' artist hus- 
band. My eyes were fixed on one or the 
other all the time, and it was not till I 
rose to go that I noticed how bare and 
poor the place was. 

A precious gem in so rude a casket is, 



of course, a rare occurrence. The ideal 
combination is when pictures harmonize 
in character with all the other objects of 
a room. This harmony should be in 
subject, color and quality. The juxta- 
position of a religious picture with a 
drinking scene — a Raphael's Madonna 
beside a Tavern Brawl by Steen, for in- 
stance — is jarring to one's sense of pro- 
priety, while the color sense is equally 
ofifended by a gray platinum print 
against a terra cotta wall. The cheap 
poster which is suitable for a den would 
be out of place in a drawing room, nor 
should prints and paintings be mixed 
indiscriminately together. 
-- The best background for pictures is 
of a plain neutral tint in a paper or fab- 
ric of dull finish. The pictures and their 
frames should blend or harmonize with 
their setting, as the wall itself with the 
floor coverings and draperies. Here let 
me register a protest against the multi- 
plication of little pictures which some- 
times "spot over" a wall space in which 
a much simpler and more dignified ef- 
fect would be produced by a single 
good-sized picture. What may be called 
the ''space composition" of the room 
ought to be considered in connection 

187 



188 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



with other harmonies. 

The decorative value of pictures, im- 
portant as it is, is not their only mission. 
When the subjects are rightly chosen, 
they are an education and an inspiration 
in the home Hfe. Our range is practi- 
cally unlimited. Modern processes of 
reproduction bring most of the world's 
great art within the reach of the most 
modest purses. Splendid buildings, 
noble sculpture, and the masterpieces 
of great painters may be ours to look at 
daily. \\'ithin the four walls of a single 



room we may travel all over the world, 
so to speak. We may be transported 
from the Pyramids of Egypt to the 
canals of Venice ; we may gaze on the 
grandeurs of the Yosemite or the cathe- 
drals of England; we may roam in the 
byways of Italy or among the romantic 
ruins of France. 

With so much that is grand and up- 
lifting to choose from, it is a pity to 
lower the taste by inferior art. Many 
pictures, which seem pretty enough at 
first blush, grow very tiresome after 




I 



PICTURES IN THE HOME 



189 



awhile. As we weary of the vapid so- 
ciety of some superficial people, so we 
lose interest in trivial or meaningless 
pictures. On the other hand, it is, I 
think, an aflfectation to hang pictures of 
a purely educational character in the 
home. Many subjects appropriate to a 
school hall are not at all suited to a 
family living room. The Roman Fo- 
rum, for instance, is of interest to a 
classical student or an archaeologist, 
but it is straining a point to hang it in 
our dining rooms. So, too, a painful 
subject is not for daily contemplation, 
though some of the great painters, like 
the great dramatists, have chosen tragic 
themes for their work. Rembrandt's 
Anatomy Lesson, painted with entire 
appropriateness for the assembly room 
of a Surgeon's Guild, is absurdly out of 
place in a home. The Saviour's Pas- 
sion and Crucifixion, intended for pure- 
ly devotional purposes, are subjects for 
a church or the inner sanctum. 

Pictures which are good to live with 
possess many of the same quahties as 
the people whom w^e like best. They 
are cheerful, restful, tranquil, unobtru- 
sive, and their society is w^holesome and 
uplifting. Jean Francois ^lillet painted 
pictures of this kind, drawing his sub- 
jects from the homely work-a-day life 
of his native France. Some deal with 
indoor tasks, like "Churning," others 
with the farm yard and the field. The 
out of door scenes have lovely vistas, 
like the ''Shepherdess" and the ''An- 
gelus," restful and inspiring to the 
imagination. 

The Dutch school of the 17th cen- 
tury made a specialty of purely domes- 
tic subjects, many of which are delight- 
ful home pictures. Interiors by Peter 
de Hooch and Gerard Terburg. market 
scenes by Gerard Dou and Gabriel Met- 
su, transcripts of life among humble 
folk by van Mieris and Nicolas Maas, 
are of this class. 

As we all love the great out-of-doors, 
landscape art should have a place in 
every home. If one is fortunate enough 





I 



PORTICO OF AX OLD HOUSE, PO-'^IrA^"0 




REMBRANDT WITH HAT 



190 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




INTERIOR BY GERARD DOU 

to possess a single good landscape paint- 
ing, he will find it a perpetual delight. 
Failing this, or indeed supplementing 
this, reproductions from the works of 
Corot, Constable, Rousseau or Dau- 
bigny, are very satisfactory. Photo- 
graphs direct from nature are often the 
best possible way of bringing forest, 
field, river, lake and mountain within 
doors. Artistic landscape photography 
is a comparatively new institution and 
has a great future. 

The so-called "fancy head" is a pop- 
ular part of the home picture scheme. 
Such subjects range from trivial inani- 
ties to the strong, fine characterizations 
of Rembrandt and Frans Hals. For 
pure decorative value, the English por- 
trait school furnishes charming ex- 
amples by Reynolds, Gainsborough, 
Romney and the rest. A well executed 
head has, in fact, the two-fold interest 
of decorative quality and character in- 
sight. Portraits of quaintly dressed 
great ladies of centuries past, of dig- 
nified Venetian senators, sturdy Dutch 
burghers or elegant English courtiers 
start many an interesting train of 
thought in imagining the life story of 
the sitter. The somewhat exaggerated 



"mystery" of Mona Lisa, and the gra- 
cious charm of the Duchess of Devon- 
shire, are an unfailing source of inter- 
est. One does well, also, to include in 
one's collection, real portraits of real 
people, the great personages who are 
the heroes of our family tradition. In 
this respect the school room should not 
be the only place where great men are 
honored 1)y their portraits. Dante and 
Shakespeare, Beethoven and Mozart, 
Raphael and Michelangelo are faces the 
children should know, in those homes 
where music, art and literature are 
fostered. 

The faces of little children are peren- 
nially dear and charming. Successful 
delineators of child Hfe have been none 
too numerous, and we cherish such 
ideals as Reynolds and A^andyck have 
produced for us. Here and there, in our 
journeys through the galleries, we pick 
up one and another child picture to add 
to our repertory. One such is the sweet 
little fellow by Paris Bordone, another a 
round faced Dutch boy by Cuyp, w^hile 




PORTRAIT BY PARIS BORDONE 



PICTURES IN THE HOME 



191 



some notable ones are from French and 
Flemish schools, by Greuze, ^Ime. le 
Brun, Cornells de \'os and others. Very 
charming, too, in this class of pictures, 
are the child angels of Italian Renais- 
sance art. The Florentines caught many 
a picturesque street boy, in their compo- 
sitions, masquerading in celestial robes, 
and adorned with wings, as attendants 
of the Christ child. The A'enetians pro- 
duced some lovely boy musicians, play- 
ins: lute or viol at the foot of the Ma- 
donna's throne. ^Manv of these are seen 



seen very inexpensive Italian prints re- 
producing bits of scenery and architec- 
ture with the delicate charm of the 
water color. Even a five cent post card 
may be a genuine work of art. At the 
other end of the scale are the Medici 
prints — the latest word in exact color 
reproduction of the old masters, the 
present condition of the work being 
faithfully duplicated. The process is an 
English one and rather costly, but the 
happy owner of a Medici has a great art 
treasure. 




THE FORD 



on the walls of picture lovers. The 
Spanish Alurillo delights us likewise 
with pictures of the child Jesus, and of 
the boy St. John, the Baptist, playing 
with a lamb, as well as with the con- 
trasting subjects of the street boys of 
Seville. 

A word as to the color element in pic- 
ture decoration. Time was when we 
had to choose between two alternatives : 
the painting or the glaring chromo. 
Now our color reproductions cover a 
long range of quality and prices. I have 



Perhaps the final word of advice in 
regard to the choice of home pictures 
should have to do with their variety. It 
was an old-fashioned mistake to deco- 
rate the home with family portraits. 
The vogue of the crayon was an era of 
artistic horrors. From such errors we 
have passed to modern mistakes of 
another sort. The multiplication of cer- 
tain popular subjects, sold at bargain 
prices in department stores, has led to 
more or less monotony in our choices. 
There are a few stock pictures which 



192 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



every bride is sure of receiving among 
her gifts. It is a pity to let fashion 
shape our selections. Our furniture 
has to be more or less like other peo- 
ple's, but surely our decorations should 



represent our own point of view. Let 
the home pictures express the individual 
taste, aspiring to what is best and noblest ^ 
in the world's great art. Our ideals are fl 
depicted in our homes. 



The Havelock Innovation 

By Marion Wathen 



HAVELOCK was a railway 
village "down East." The rail- 
way track ran directly through 
the middle of the village. A few yards 
away from the track, on either side, was 
a road. A few feet beyond each road 
was a plank side-walk, more or less 
*'hole-y." And on the far side of each 
of these side-walks was a long string of 
wooden houses. This was Havelock. 

But the Havelock people were not 
slow, especially the women. Some of 
them had only been Havelock people for 
a short time and rather prided them- 
selves on that fact. An occasional 
woman in Havelock even wore a hobble- 
skirt (it was in those days) so they were 
more or less abreast of the times. 

Miss Lillian French was in Havelock. 
In fact, Miss Lillian French's people 
lived in Havelock. She had been visit- 
ing them for the last two months. Miss 
French was a Hterary person, employed 
in " literary pursuits " in Boston, and 
was to return to these same "literary 
pursuits" very shortly — so the "Queen's 
County World" informed the public. 

When the few ladies in Havelock who 
formed "Havelock Society" became 
aware of Miss French's impending de- 
parture they were somewhat conscience 
stricken; Miss Lillian French had been 
in Havelock two months and nothing 
had been done in the way of entertain- 
ing her — socially ! Each lady was rather 
indignant with the others for their neg- 
ligence in the matter. "It's scandalous !" 
declared Mrs. Mann, the doctor's wife, 
as she talked the matter over with her 



sister, Mrs. Lancaster — wife of the 
"leading merchant" of Havelock. 

All at once a brilliant idea came to 
Mrs. Dr. Mann: She would have a five- 
o'clock tea in honor of Lillian French ; a 
real genuine five-o'clock-tea, to which all 
the ladies of Havelock, "who were any- 
body," would come dressed in their best 
— shake hands in their very nicest fash- 
ion, do about an hour's talking in ten 
minutes or so, drink tea and eat cake 
without removing their gloves — their 
very best gloves, and then have a further 
half hour's chat inside of the next five 
minutes, make a very gushing shake- 
hands and — take their leave. Already, 
in fancy Mrs. Mann heard the delight- 
ful hub-bub of many voices and the 
clatter of china. 

"Doris, I feel that we really owe it — 
not only to Miss French, but to the 
ladies of Havelock, to show them how 
to do these things. We certainly should 
do something, for their five-o'clock-tea 
education has really been sadly neg- 
lected." 

"It's certainly shocking," answered 
Mrs. Lancaster, with a very grave face. 

"What to give them to eat," of course, 
was the momentous question. Some- 
thing without much work (these ladies 
were strong) or much expense was 
agreed on. And they agreed to this, for 
a time. 

"Til have chicken sandwiches ! There 
are those chickens the doctor got from a 
man down country to settle the account 
that he's owed him nearly ever since we 
came here. Of course they'll keep as 



THE HAVELOCK INNOVATION 



193 



long as the weather stays like this; but 
Vm tired of chicken, already," decidedly 
declared Mrs. Mann. 

"The very thing," enthusiastically an- 
swered her sister — "and I've some cel- 
ery left you may have." 

"But about cake; I'm afraid of that. 
I'm really never sure of anything lately 
but Spanish Bun, and the doctor likes it 
best. But then, I've had that so much. 
And it isn't really the best kind of cake 
for a five-o'clock-tea." 

"Oh, I know the very thing! I've 
some of that cake left that Frank's 
mother sent me at Christmas. And it's 
perfectly delicious, isn't it? Come right 
up with me and see it. I'm sure there's 
enough." 

"But it's a shame to take your cake. 
It would be lovely, though, and I've 
never tasted any like it, here. Now, 
isn't there something real nice we can 
have in the way of small cakes?" 

"Let's look through the Journals," 
suggested Mrs. Lancaster. So they did. 
And in the very last number found a 
receipt for mocha-cakes with an illus- 
tration showing a plateful of these ar- 
ranged on a fluffy doiley. 

"The very thing!" they both ex- 
claimed as they read the receipt. So it 
was fully decided that mocha-cakes 
would be part of the menu. 

Right under this receipt it happened 
that there was one for "Pine Apple 
Cream" — pine-apple with a sprinkling 
of nuts mixed with whipped cream. Al- 
most breathlessly they read it. Then 
they looked at each other. 

"Nobody here's had that at any- 
thing!" excitedly said Mrs. Lancaster. 

"I'll have it," emphatically declared 
Mrs. Mann. 

After another long discussion it was 
decided that the tea was to be on Friday. 
"That will give us the week," said the 
doctor's wife. "And we won't give the 
invitations until Wednesday — that will 
be time enough. But you mustn't breathe 
a word of it to a single soul in the place, 
Doris — now Mind! I suppose you can 



tell Harry; but it's to be an entire 
secret." 

So after many promises of secrecy 
Mrs. Lancaster went home, glad that 
she had a husband; for it certainly 
would have been hard to have remained 
in perfect silence over such a matter. 

Now there was a Mrs. Bell in Have- 
lock. She was one of the "somebodies." 
Mrs. Bell was quite intimate with the 
Frenches. She ran in on Monday after- 
noon and found Lillian talking of begin- 
ning her packing. "I'm to go next Mon- 
day," she explained. Then Mrs. Bell 
realized that something had to be done. 
She went home and thought it over. Her 
first thought was: "I'll have Lillian and 
her sister over to tea to-morrow night." 
"But having people to tea is kind of old- 
fashioned for a person who's lived in 
Boston so long," was her next thought. 
Then another idea came — a really bril- 
liant one, so it seemed just then. She 
would have a five-o'clock-tea. It would 
be a real genuine five-o'clock-tea — some- 
thing that would at once lift the Have- 
lock people out of the old-fashioned 
"having people to tea" business. 

"There's no reason in the wide world 
why people, just because they live in a 
village, should not aspire to five-o'clock- 
teaism," she said to herself, and later on 
explained to her daughter Minnie. 

"It will not only be nice for LilHan 
French, but it will be a kind of educa- 
tion to the rest of them. Now there's 
the doctor's wife and the minister's 
wife, who really should know about 
things, being professional men's wives, 
and there's really no one else in the 
place you know to — to — " 

"Exactly," said her daughter. 

"Of course, the lunch is really the 
most important thing," continued her 
mother. "I wonder what we'd better 
have." 

"Pea-nut sandwiches would be nice," 
answered Minnie. 

"Oh, those old things! I couldn't 
think of having them. I've had the« at 



194 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



almost everything we've had since I 
came to Havelock." 

''How would egg-sandwiches do?" 

"Oh, I'm sick of egg-sandwiches. Mrs. 
Philips has taken them to every picnic 
and church affair in the last ten years — 
just because they're easy to make." 

''There are some nice receipts in The 
Times some days," suggested Minnie, 
taking up a copy of that newspaper. 
Then she read aloud "Chicken Sand- 
wiches!" "They'd be nice!" 

So her mother looked over her shoul- 
der and read the directions for making 
chicken sandwiches. After some further 
discussion Mrs. Bell finished up with, 
"Well, they haven't been used much in 
Havelock and I would like to have 
something different from the ordinary 
run and do the tea up right, if we do 
undertake it. But you may depend, if 
we have anything new, they'll be all 
after the receipt the very next day. 
That's the worst of living in a small 
place." So the chicken sandwiches were 
agreed upon. 

Then the question of cake came up. 
Minnie .was for angel cake. But her 
mother at once settled this with a, 
"Takes too many eggs, and it's a cake 
one's never sure of. But there's 
enough of the Christmas fruit-cake — 
why wouldn't that do? and it's good." 

"Oh, it's too near Christmas for fruit 
cake. Everybody has been fruit-caked 
to death already. Didn't Mrs. Graham 
give you the receipt of that white-moun- 
tain cake before she left? It was beau- 
tiful, and I don't believe anyone round 
here makes it." 

"Well, that's so. And Mrs. Graham 
said she'd never known it to fail." So 
another momentous decision was 
reached. 

"\\'ell, we'll not decide on anything 
else in the eating line just now. We 
both better think it over during the day. 
I think we'd better make up our minds 
right now just when we're going to have 
it — the tea, I mean," said Mrs. Bell. 

''Well, I can't see that we can have 



things ready any before Friday and do it 

right," wisely suggested Minnie. 

"That's so. And we'll give the invi- 
tations on Wednesday. We won't say a 
word to a soul until then, for the dear 
knows what might turn up between now 
and then." 

"Yes, and if they hear about it sooner,, 
they'll be on the watch just to see how- 
much fuss we're making over it. And if 
we leave it till Wednesday, the worst 
will be over before anyone suspects 
what's going on." 

Now it was not in the least strange 
that that very afternoon Mrs. Bell hap- 
pened to pick up the last copy of the 
Woman's Journal. And it was not in 
the least strange that she turned to the 
receipt page. In ten minutes she dropped 
the Journal — dropped it smilingly, ex- 
ultingly, triumphantly. She hurried to 
the foot of the stairs and called for 
Minnie. 

Minnie wasn't long in responding, for 
her mother's tone bespoke urgency. 
. "Well, I've decided," she explained in 
much the same tone and manner, as 
though the future welfare of the entire 
Bell family had just been decided on. 

"What else to have for the tea?" 
questioned Minnie, guessing in a minute 
the cause of her mother's emphatic dec- 
laration. 

"Yes — I saw it in the Journal, listen!" 
And she told her. 

The Reverend Wesley Strangways 
was one of the two ministers in Have- 
lock. 

"My dear, are you not going to invite 
Miss French to the parsonage before she 
leaves?" one day said Mr. Strangways 
to his young wife. 

"Oh, do you think I ought?" ques- 
tioned she with some trepidation. You 
see, I haven't any girl and having peo- 
ple to tea is so much work. And if I had 
her, there are a number of others I ought 
to ask, and — " 

"Well, have 'em all," answered her 
husband, in that magnanimous, whole- 



THE HAVELOCK INNOVATION 



195 



sale way in which a husband is often 
hkely to speak when dealing with affairs 
belonging to "the other side" of the 
house. 

"But — but, you see, we're awful short 
of dishes, and we really haven't a decent 
tablecloth left." 

"Well, why couldn't you have one 
of those little affairs you and your sister 
used to have — five-o'clock-tea or what- 
ever you call them?" 

For a minute Mrs. Strangways didn't 
reply. The suggestion was too startling. 
But when she did it was with: 

"Oh, you dear! Why, it's the very 
thing! How perfectly lovely of you to 
think of it! They don't seem to have 
had them in Havelock. It will be such a 
novelty for the poor souls !" she said, 
somewhat condescendingly, and con- 
tinued : "But you'll have to help me." 

"Sure I will" — hash nuts or do any 
old thing," he answered with a roguish 
twinkle. 

"Why, Wesley whatever's got into 
you today? — you're such a help — hash 
nuts! Why, that's the very thing — 
mocha cakes! Oh, I know what made 
you think of chopping nuts ! It was that 
time you were visiting us before we 
were married and Jen and I were mak- 
ing mocha cakes and the chopper was 
broken and — But mocha cakes will be 
perfectly lovely for the tea." 

And that very evening, Monday, Mrs. 
Strangways hastily scribbled a note to 
her sister in the next town asking her 
advice in regard to completing the menu 
for her tea. 

It was not until Tuesday morning that 
the important matter of time was dis- 
cussed. 

"I'll be home all day on Friday, dear; 
so how would it do to have it that after- 
neon? I'll be able to keep you about 
before the ladies come, then — guess I'll 
make myself scarce," suggested Mr. 
Strangways. 

So Friday was decided on, and, also, 
that the invitations were not to be given 
until Wednesday afternoon. "I'll have 



time to hear from Jen by then, and I 
wouldn't wonder a bit, if she don't come 
over herself— be just like her, the dear," 
she explained to her husband. 

And that very night, Jen arrived, on 
the ten o'clock train. 

"Here's your five-o'clock!" she gaily 
exclaimed, almost before she had time 
to sit down, thrusting a big lunch basket 
on her sister. 

"Hurrah!" said the minister as he 
jerked out a plump chicken. "And cel- 
ery — did I ever! And pineapples! Jen, 
you're extravagant! But I'm glad I 
married into the family. But what's in 
the bottom, wife? — something heavy!" 

"Heavy! Well, I like that. Indeed, 
it isn't heavy. It's a white-mountain 
cake that I made myself and Sis knows 
my white-mountain cakes are never 
heavy." 

"Oh, Jen, you're a dear ! To think you 
thought of all this! Won't we give the 
Havelock women a lunch worth while! 
Do them to talk about for a month, at 
least." 

Wednesday was a beautiful day. 

"Must be going to be a storm, nearly 
all the women in the place seem to be 
out," commented the postmaster to the 
Rev. Mr. Jackson — the "other" minister 
of -Havelock, as he handed him his after- 
noon mail. 

"That so?" replied Mr. Jackson. 

"Yes; there goes the doctor's wife. 
And it isn't more than ten minutes since 
Mrs. Strangways and her sister went up. 
Mrs. Bell was in here dressed in best 
not long ago — guess there must be some- 
thing brewing amongst the women 
folks." 

"I haven't heard of anything," an- 
swered the minister. 

But he heard when he returned home. 
Mrs. Jackson met him at the door. One 
glance told him that something unusual 
had happened during his absence. 

"What is it, Nell?" he hastily ques- 
tioned. 

"Oh, come in, quick! And shut the 



196 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



door. Please hurry — I'm dying to tell 
someone !" Then she leaned against the 
wall and laughed — and laughed. 

"Out with it, Nell!" 

*'Did you meet any women?" 

"No, but—" 

"Well, they were all here together — 
they didn't come together; but it was so 
funny! Mrs. Dr. Mann and Mrs. 
Strangways and her sister and Mrs. 
Bell. And, guess what? They all came 
to ask me to a five-o'clock-tea. And they 
just happened to strike here at the same 
time and found out about it — they're 
each having one for Lillian French and 
they're all round giving their invitations 
for Friday — the same day, mind you ! 
To think that it should happen like that 
— and there's never been a five-o'clock- 
tea in Havelock before that I ever heard 
about. I wish you could have seen their 
faces when they found out, you would 
have felt sorry for them, for I'm sure 
each one thought she was springing 
something so unusual on us all and 
meant it to be a decided innovation. 
And then to think they'd thought of ex- 
actly the same thing — same day and all! 
But the funniest part, or the saddest 
part, was when they tried to arrange 
matters, for of course they were each 
asking the same women — such a hub- 
bub! Each one was doing her best to 
explain why she must have hers on Fri- 
day and no other day." 

"Well, how did they settle it?" asked 
the minister, now thoroughly interested. 

"Oh, they hadn't, when they left here. 
They were all a bit huffy. But they left 
together and I saw them all go in to 
Mrs. Bell's together. And they haven't 
come out yet ; that's a good hour ago." 

That evening the "society" ladies of 
Havelock received three notes. One in- 
vited them to Mrs. Strangway's tea on 
Thursday. Another was for Mrs. Bell's 
on Friday. And the third was for Mrs. 
Mann's on Saturday. 

Mrs. Strangway's tea was a "decided 
success." The lunch was "perfectly 



delightful — I've never seen or tasted a 
nicer," explained Mrs. Jackson to her 
husband as she was giving him a de- 
tailed account of the first tea. "The only 
thing to be regretted," as Mrs. Strang- 
ways herself remarked to the other 
ladies, was that Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Bell, 
and Mrs. Lancaster found it impossible 
to be present. 

And Mrs. Bell's tea was also a de- 
cided success. All the ladies invited, 
except Mrs. Mann and her sister, were 
present. Doubtless it was their prepara- 
tion for their own tea that detained 
them. But here was one thing quite 
noticeable: Though the ladies nearly all 
left Mrs. Bell's at the same time, they 
were very quiet on their homeward way. 
This was certainly to their credit. But, 
doubtless, their husbands could have 
told a different story. 

Mr. Strangways opened the door for 
his wife and sister. Immediately they 
"dropped" on to the hall settee. Mrs. 
Strangways looked at her sister — a puz- 
zled, somewhat dismayed look. 

Her sister looked at her in about the 
same way. At last — "What on earth — ? 
exclaimed the minister's wife. 

"Did I ever?" answered her sister. 

"Have you two gone batty?" ques- 
tioned the minister. 

"It was the lunch," explained his 
wife. "They had chicken sandwiches 
and — mocha cakes and — " 

"And white-mountain cake," ^ added 
her sister. 

"And pineapple cream?" questioned 
the minister. 

"Yes!" groaned the minister's wife. 
"Oh, poor Mrs. Bell, when she hears of 
mine !" 

All the ladies were present next after- 
noon — Mrs. Bell still oblivious in regard 
to the repetition of the luncheons. 

And Mrs. Mann's really was a de- 
lightful function. It left nothing to be 
desired; cmly — the luncheon was: 
chicken sandwiches, mocha cakes, white- 
mountain cake and pineapple cream. 



\ 



The Market of Oakland, California 

By Jessie Juliet Knox 



THE market of Oakland was 
originally named the Free Mar- 
ket, because the stalls were to be 
had, rent free, for those who wished to 
use them for selling their wares. This 
custom has been abolished now, though, 
and a large rental must be paid. 

Wednesdays and Saturdays are red- 
letter days for Oakland housewives, for 
it is on these days that this market is 
open to the hungry public. If you are not 
hungry at the start, you surely will be 
after you have threaded your way 
through the several blocks leading into 
the great m^arket place, and have 
caught a few of the delightsome whiffs, 
and feasted your eyes on the delicacies 
and substantial displayed therein. 

The market is situated on the corner 
of Fifth and Washington streets, in the 
city of Oakland, and is easily accessible 
by the car lines. Here it is considered 
no disgrace for the best ladies in the city 
to pick their w'ay through the crowd, 
armed with a long brown or black fish- 
net market bag, and to have the pleasure 
of selecting for themselves and family 
the very best that the market affords. 

Their automobiles may wait outside, 
it is true, or they may have come on the 
street car, but they are only part of a 
throng of ladies of all nations, who 
have taken this opportunity to purchase 
the family supplies. 

On Washington street, practically the 
last three blocks, before reaching the 
market proper, are blocks that make one 
think herself in a foreign country, as 
the stores and stalls are almost all con- 
ducted by foreigners — mostly Italians, 
as they are so often to be found dealing 
in fruit of all kinds. Many Swiss peo- 
ple are there, too, with their excellent 
milk, butter and cheese. 

Finally, after coming to the entrance 
of the market, one finds the usual stands 



for peanuts and popcorn, hot and fresh, 
with all the soda pop and etceteras that 
accompany. This always attracts a 
crowd of juveniles, and extracts many 
an unwilling nickel from the pockets of 
much-abused parents. One cannot really 
blame the youngsters, though, for it is 
almost as tempting to grown-ups, to 
catch the familiar odor of peanuts and 
popcorn, while in process of roasting. 

Outside on the pavement is a fragrant 
corner of flowers, for here the artistic 
sense must be catered to, as well as the 
inner man, and one finds as many en- 
thusiasts gathered around the flower 
booth as there are inside. 

Selling flowers in California seems 
almost foolish, sometimes, when one has 
only to open his eyes, to see flowers 
blooming all around ; climbing over 
houses and fences, and peeping in at 
upper windows. 

At the other side of the entrance w^ay 
is a notion stand, where one may obtain 
anything, from a shoestring to a shop- 
ping bag, and it saves time and trouble 
to be able to purchase small necessaries 
here instead of walking to the shops. 

On entering the market proper the 
first stand to the right contains a most 
tempting array of vegetables. It is beau- 
tifully systematic, with tier on tier of 
great white cabbages, green peas, beets, 
rutabagas, carrots, celery and celery 
root, turnips, spring onions, lettuce, rad- 
ishes, cucumbers, green and yellow 
string beans, brussels sprouts, Italian 
squash and summer squash, tomatoes, 
bell and Chili peppers, Irish and sweet 
potatoes, egg-plant, garlic, parsley, 
sweet-corn, water-cress, spinach, cauli- 
flower, parsnips and curly lettuce. 

It is with great difficulty that we re- 
frained from beginning our purchases 
then and there, but as we had made a 
firm resolve to go all through the market 

197 



198 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



before buying anything, we rigidly hold 
to our resolution. 

Passing to the next stall we discover 
that it has for sale cheese of all kinds, 
fresh ranch butter, eggs and ice cream. 

We rapidly pass on to a fruit stand, 
where Italian vendors are calling out the 
merits of bananas, two dozen for two 
bits (twenty-five cents) ; pineapples, 
oranges, apples, peaches, grapefruit, 
limes, lemons, tomatoes, strawberries, 
grapes (seedless white, three pounds for 
ten cents). 

Next come the condiments and appe- 
tizers, and we can hardly drag ourselves 
from this place. Here are pickles of all 
kinds, olives, ripe and green, Mexican 
hot relish, grated horseradish and the 
root, peanut butter, mayonnaise, etc. 
Stands of butter, eggs and cheese are 
frequent. 

Next are melons of different kinds, 
and another fruit stand contains quanti- 
ties of large blue plums, great yellow 
pears, freestone peaches, tomatoes, new 
sweet potatoes, English walnuts, Brazil 
nuts, pecans, almonds, cocoanuts, bell 
peppers and string beans. 

Poultry stands are numerous, and 
here one can surely obtain everything, 
such as chicken, rabbits, turkey, squab, 
oysters, etc. ; but the most appetizing 
places are the stalls where are sold such 
things as breakfast bacon, of the finest 
quality, ham, dried beef, smoked and 
salt fish, olives, condiments, cheese, olive 
oil, lard, etc. The odor of the bacon and 
ham makes us feel like buying out the 
whole business, and we temporarily for- 
get our resolution not to eat any more 
meat. 



The fish stalls, of which there are 
many, are very interesting, and it is de- 
cidedly surprising to learn all the differ- 
ent kinds of fish on display. There are 
white fish, barracuda, fresh sardines, 
mackerel, rock-cod, sole, halibut, 
salmon, sea bass, alba cora, yellow-tail, 
crabs, shrimps, lobsters, mussels and 
clams. There are eight large fish stalls 
on one side of the market. 

Next come the meat stalls, where one 
can purchase roast lamb at ten cents a 
pound, roast mutton, eight cents, leg of 
lamb, fifteen cents, and leg of ^yearling 
for twelve and a half cents. 

Nearby is another stand where they 
sell only tripe (yards of it), liver, sweet- 
breads, pigs' feet, hearts, and such 
dainties. 

The odor of coffee greets us now. and 
we come to the place where they sell it in 
abundance, and every brand that heart 
could desire. 

In the center of the market are fruit 
stands as well as many vegetable stands. 
Here tier upon tier of luscious fruit 
rises fragrantly in the air, and here it is, 
after having traversed the entire mar- 
ket, that we, at last, yield to temptation 
and buy delightful sweet corn, at fifteen 
cents a dozen, big round tomatoes, four 
pounds for ten cents, cucumbers, crisp 
and fresh, for five cents a dozen, 
oranges at ten cents a dozen, etc. 

As we soon have really more than we 
can conveniently pack into our bag, we 
are compelled to cease making pur- 
chases; but we can assure you that the 
only reason we stopped buying was be- 
cause we simply could not carry another 
thing, even so far as the street car. 



Octob 



er 



Pregnant with spring, hope shining in her 

tears, 
Safeguarded by the father of the years, — 
No shadow of his scythe upon her breast, — 
Now meditative Nature welcomes rest. 

StOKELY S. FlSHEl, 



The Scavenging Diet 

By Helen Graham 



PERHAPS no other single de- 
ficiency of the body will lead to 
so many and complicated ills and 
diseases in the course of a lifetime as 
the failure of the intestines to excrete 
waste material, and yet there is probably 
no more common trouble than this. It 
is allowed to continue and is not consid- 
ered a serious malady by the average 
sufferer from constipation, because they 
may feel no immediate bad results from 
it or do not recognize even the less seri- 
ous results, such as a bad complexion, 
headache, general debility and lassitude, 
as coming from this unclean malady. 

Like all ills that are not sufficiently 
acute to interfere with one's daily occu- 
pations, this is not taken to a physician, 
in many cases, and even in such cases 
his directions are not carried out be- 
cause of the trouble or inconvenience in- 
volved, so such sufferers acquire the 
cathartic habit. Drug statistics show 
that a very large percent of medicine 
sold is cathartic — mostly pills and vari- 
ous patent medicines. Experience has 
proven that while these give temporary 
relief, their use is inadequate for this 
reason, the relief given is only tempo- 
rary, the bowels are overtaxed, leaving 
a worse condition than before they were 
taken, and more and more being re- 
quired to have any effect at all. Beside 
this disadvantage, the average person 
does not know what harmful substances 
may be in patent cathartics. 

The use of natural remedies is un- 
questionably the only way of perma- 
nently correcting this trouble, and of the 
natural remedies the diet is of first im- 
portance. But to aid the dietetic treat- 
ment certain rules of hygiene must be 
strictly adhered to. Regularity in hours- 
of sleep, mealtimes, bathing, exercise, 
etc., must be observed. Tight clothes 
and belts must be avoided and the 



weight of the clothing should be sus- 
pended from the shoulders. 

The diet calculated to act as a scav- 
enger and at the same time nourish the 
body sufficiently should contain : first, 
bulky material, as vegetables; second, 
coarse flours, whole wheat, Graham 
flour, etc. ; third, fruits ; fourth, oils ; 
fifth, nuts ; and sixth, a large amount of 
water in the form of beverages or other- 
wise. 

Bulky material is necessary to play 
the part of a scavenger, because bulk 
will excite the normal peristaltic motion 
of the intestines and prevent the accu- 
mulation of waste products. It is quite 
possible to arrange the diet to have the 
required amount of protein, fat, and 
carbohydrate in such concentrated forms 
as eggs, meat, milk, gelatine, rice, white 
bread, prepared foods, etc., that when 
they are almost completely absorbed 
there is not enough waste matter left to 
excite peristalsis or there is insufficient 
bulk for the intestinal walls to take hold 
upon and expel. So the correct diet is 
not only a case of nutrition, but of 
digestion, assimilation, and expulsion of 
unassimilated residue. 

This necessary bulk may be obtained 
from vegetables, especially the salad 
plants, turnips, lettuce, cabbage, spin- 
ach, asparagus, celery and tomatoes. 
These contain a large amount of cellu- 
lose or woody fiber, which is very dif- 
ficult of digestion and of very little 
value to the body, if it were digested, so 
it is left as a waste product in the intes- 
tines. Some vegetables, beside giving 
this waste cellulose, have peculiar laxa- 
tive properties because of certain acids 
which they contain. Tomatoes and spin- 
ach are said to have this property to a 
certain extent as have, also, boiled 
onions. 

As a rule, these v^etables are more 

199 



200 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



effective when eaten raw than wl^n 
cooked, as cooking softens the cellulose 
and some of the laxative juices are lost 
in the water in which they are cooked. 
However, cooked vegetables are val- 
uable to a certain extent and should 
constitute a large part of the diet in 
cases where raw ones are not available. 

Bread made of flour containing prac- 
tically the whole edible part of the grain, 
as whole wheat flour, rye flour, etc., is 
laxative in its effect because the external 
covering of the grain is rough and hard 
and its presence in the intestines be- 
comes irritating to the intestinal walls 
and produces peristalsis. It is true that 
the extra amount of protein in such 
flours is not assimilated because it is so 
incased in cellulose, but is excreted un- 
changed, and so far as nutrition is con- 
cerned they seem to be of no more value 
than ordinary white flour (not so great 
as regards starch), but their scavenging 
properties are worth considering. 

Fruits act as scavengers for several 
reasons ; first, because of the cellulose as 
in the case of vegetables, especially when 
the skins, as of apples, pears, etc., are 
eaten with the fruit; second, the acids 
and mineral matter contained in fruits 
when absorbed stimulate the secretion 
of the digestive juices and promote 
peristalsis; third, they are laxative in 
effect because of indigestible seeds, as 
fig seed, blackberries, strawberries, etc., 
that act as irritants to the intestinal 
walls. 

The fruits that are of special value as 
laxatives because of acids are apples, 
pears, oranges, peaches, prunes, cher- 
ries, plums; those that are laxative be- 
cause of seeds or irritating skins are figs 
and all kinds of berries, apples, pears 
and prunes. Some of the fruits act as 
scavengers in all three of these ways be- 
cause of the large amount of cellulose 
residue left, the seeds and their chemical 
action. 

Like vegetables, raw fruits are more 
effective laxatives than cooked, for 
the same reason. They contain, also, 



very digestible forms of sugar and min- 
eral matter and for this reason should 
be given to children in large quantites. 
They are the most effective when eaten 
early in the morning (before breakfast) 
or between meals so that they are not 
hindered in their effects by the presence 
of other foods. Dried fruits, instead of 
being cooked as they usually are, are 
better scavengers, if they are washed 
thoroughly, then soaked for several 
hours. This is especially true of dried 
prunes, raisins and figs (if they are 
whole). A disadavantage of cooking 
fruits, especially the very sour varieties, 
is that so much sugar must be added to 
make them eatable that their good effect 
is destroyed, and "preserves" could 
hardly be counted as fruit at all, but 
as sugar. 

Nuts are laxative because of the large 
percent (from 25 to 50) of oils con- 
tained and, also, because of the residue 
left, but they are not as useful as they 
might be, if they were more easily di- 
gested by the average person. Olive oil, 
used to dress a salad or with any vege- 
table, is laxative and especially so when 
taken alone on an empty stomach. 
Cream has this effect, also, but more is 
required, as cream is only about twenty 
percent fat. 

Large quantities of water, either hot or 
cold, have a cleansing effect on the in- 
testines, and especially so when drunk in 
large quantities on retiring at night and 
on rising in the morning. Coffee at 
meals or at any time may be objected to 
by many and no doubt its stimulating 
effect is harmful, but the good effect of 
the hot water in it almost balances the 
injurious effect of the coffee itself. If a 
person does not care for water during 
the day, it might be taken in the form of 
lemonade, or with any flavor, such as 
cloves, cream of tartar, etc. Water in 
large quantities is especially necessary in 
warm weather because of the large 
amount lost by perspiration, there being 
an insufficient quantity left to prevent 
an undue thickening of the contents of 



THE COOKERY OF VEGETABLES 



201 



the alimentary canal. 

In planning ,. dietary that will be of a 
scavenging nature and at the same time 
be a ''balanced ration," several things 
must be taken into account. Unfortu- 
nately a certain food that has had a lax- 
ative effect when first used loses its 
effect or else produces diarrhea when 
eaten constantly and something else 
must be substituted, so there must be 
variety in the diet for this reason if for 
no other. After about a week the first 
thing tried will again be effective and 
the same special dietary may be used 
again, changing the other things. In 
planning this special dietary, only 
enough of the specially laxative foods 
should be used in one day as will be 



necessary for the person for whom it is 
planned so that less trouble will be had 
in giving a variety, from day to day. 
Enough solid food should be eaten to 
produce the normal peristaltic motion of 
the intestines. Too little food is often 
the cause of constipation. If a person 
does not care for food, he should take 
more out door exercise; tennis, golf or 
even walking will create a healthy appe- 
tite. This exercise itself will tend to 
relieve the trouble aside from creating 
an appetite that will increase the quan- 
tity of food partaken. Swimming is an 
excellent exercise, as it brings into play 
the abdominal muscles (as well as every 
other muscle). Bicycling has the same 
effect also. 



The Key to the Cookery of Vegetables or How Vege 
tables are Spoiled in Cooking 



By Jessamine Chapman 



GLANCING over modern cook 
books with the idea of the re- 
ationship and proportion of the 
different subjects treated of, one cannot 
but note the small space given to one of 
the most important of all subjects — the 
cooking of vegetables. Perhaps there is 
some connection between the general 
failure in the preparation of this group 
of food products and the lack of atten- 
tion given to the question in cookbooks. 
However that may be, we have much to 
learn, if we wish to reach perfection in 
this art. 

The spoiling or the failure to get the 
greatest good from vegetables begins, 
not with the cooking alone, but first with 
the selection. In our desire for variety, 
we often buy vegetables out of season, 
which nearly always proves anything 
but economical and generally most un- 
satisfactory, for the flavor is usually 
lacking and the expense is often 
doubled. No amount of care in the 
cooking can fully compensate for this 



mistake. F.orced hothouse vegetables 
cannot ever equal the naturally devel- 
oped, garden-grown kind. 

Again, in our desire for fine looking 
vegetables and in our eagerness for 
economy, we often select the largest 
sized vegetable rather than the medium 
or small kind. The result is we buy ( 1 ) 
the old and woody kind instead of the 
young and tender, (2) the largest kind 
is less nutritious, having more waste and 
also less flavor, (3) more fuel is re- 
quired to make them tender, (4) and the 
measure in our purchase is less than of 
the medium or small sized. 

The freshness of the vegetable is, per- 
haps, more important than the size. We 
cannot but feel disappointed in the final 
product, even with the best of care in 
cooking, if we purchase wilted spinach, 
corn, peas, or any other green vegetable. 
To be sure, we can freshen them up in 
cold water, but the result will never be 
the same. Buy a little dirt on your 
vegetables. It is a good sign. Perhaps 



202 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



they haven't been out of the ground long 
enough to have it rattle off. 

After the proper selection of the 
vegetable has been made, spoiling may 
result from lack of care of it until it is 
cooked. In the many demands on our 
time, v^e sometimes forget to put the 
green vegetable in a cool, dark, dry place, 
or let soak if wilted; to open the canned 
vegetable, drain, and let stand in the air 
a time to regain oxygen; to think to 
soak dried vegetables long enough so 
that less cooking v^ill be required. Thus, 
in the selection and care of the vegetable 
spoiling may be the result. 

To avoid bad cooking, it is necessary 
to have in mind just v^hat the object is 
in xooking, and then how^ to attain the 
object. It is three- fold: First, to retain 
all the constituents of the vegetable or 
as much of the nutriment as possible. 
Second, to soften the cellulose — the 
v^roody fiber of the vegetable. Third, to 
make palatable by developing the flavor. 

Hov^ may the first of these three ob- 
jects or aims be obtained? How may the 
nutriment of the vegetable be retained? 
There are five ways of accomplishing 
this, namely, (1) to cook whole or in as 
large pieces as possible, (2) to cook with 
the skin on when possible, (3) to cook 
in as small amount of water as possible 
— only enough to cover, (4) to use the 
water in which the vegetable is cooked 
whenever possible, (5) to season after 
the vegetable has become well started in 
cooking. Take the cooking of spinach, 
for example. It is the richest of all 
foods in iron; in fact, almost its whole 
food value consists in this valuable min- 
eral salt. This iron salt is very soluble 
in water. If this is to be retained, the 
spinach must be cooked in as little water 
as possible, so that at the completion of 
the process there is no extra water left, 
or, if any, this water should be made 
use of in serving. The vegetable oyster 
or salsify is a very delicately flavored 
vegetable with small food value. To cut 
it up in small pieces, peel it, cook in an 
abundance of water and discard the ex- 



cess at the end, would leave practically 
nothing but tasteless, woody, cellulose. 
The flavor and the nutriment would be 
found in the discarded water. 

An ideal method of cooking is one in 
which the vegetable is cooked in its own 
moisture, by dry heat, baking or roast- 
ing. This, however, isn't always pos- 
sible, some vegetables lacking the neces- 
sary water. This is sometimes supplied 
in cooking by means of steam, an excel- 
lent method, also. There is no reason, 
however, why boiling can not be em- 
ployed, if the above five points are ob- 
served. 

The second object in securing right 
results is the softening of the woody 
fiber or cellulose. In doing this there is 
no danger of other constituents not 
being cooked. A method that will soften 
cellulose will thoroughly cook starch. 
Time and temperature are the keys to 
this object. The time required is de- 
termined by the size, age, freshness of 
the vegetable, and the quality and quan- 
tity of cellulose, whether tough and 
woody as in the beet, or tender and 
easily broken down as in the tomato. 
Hence no definite time can be given, but 
the above points will determine it for 
each individual vegetable. The temper- 
ature best suited for breaking down the 
cellulose is a boiling temperature — only 
the legumes, dried peas, beans, and len- 
tils are injured by the use of a high 
temperature. The inexperienced person 
need not wonder, then, what amount of 
heat to apply in cooking, and tender- 
ness will result when sufficient time is 
given. 

The third object in cooking is the 
making palatable, developing the char- 
acteristic flavor of the vegetable. Here 
seasoning is the secret. The water in 
which the vegetable is cooked should be 
salted, but best, after the vegetable has 
boiled for a short time, to prevent in a 
measure the drawing out of the juices 
and flavor into the water or any other 
osmotic action which would take flavor 
from the vegetable. If the cooking 



HAPPYVILLE 



203 



water is to be used in the serving, this 
precaution need not be taken. The ad- 
ditional seasonings come properly after 
the vegetable is finished cooking. 

But, even with the vegetable cooked 
hygienically and with a thorough knowl- 
edge of the objects in cooking and 
how to attain them, a complete failure 
is still possible, for the critical point 
is in the seasoning and serving. 

There are innumerable methods of 
serving a cooked vegetable, and when in 
doubt as to the best method, always 
choose the plainest: butter, pepper, and 
salt. There is less danger of spoiling 
the vegetable and a greater chance of 
retaining the flavor. Sauteing may come 
second, a little browning in butter devel- 
oping the natural flavor of the vegetable. 
The greatest care must be taken in the 
use of sauces in serving. A delicately 
flavored vegetable, as the carrot for ex- 
ample, may be deprived of all its char- 
acteristic flavor by a highly seasoned 
sauce. A cauliflower may just lack an 
indescribable something in taste, which a 
teaspoonful of lemon juice, a grating of 
cheese, or a dash of cayenne, w^ould have 
brought out. Milk and cream are the 
most useful accompaniments to certain 
I vegetables. Failures result in using 
I these, often times, in making a sauce far 



too thick, lumpy, and lacking in flavor. 
It is just this last act, the final season- 
ing, that is the critical moment of the 
whole process. It requires the keenest 
of judgment, endless patience, and a 
true artistic touch, to place before the 
critic, a vegetable, perhaps unattractive 
in itself, but made above reproach by 
skill in cooking. This skill is worth 
striving for, because it will lead to a 
greater use of vegetables in our menus, 
of which there is now a lack. Perhaps 
the chief reason for this is the fact that 
they are so poorly cooked. 

Every part of the plant is used as a 
vegetable; — the root, as the beet, the 
tuber, as the potato, the bulb, as the 
onion, the stem, as asparagus, the leaf, 
as lettuce, the flower, as cauliflower. A 
knowledge of the nature of each and the 
objects to be obtained in cooking is the 
key to success in all vegetable cookery. 
The nature of the cellulose or fiber will 
determine the time and temperature to 
employ. In all, the retention of food 
value, the softening of the cellulose, and 
the development of flavor are the aims 
to seek. How to attain these we have 
seen. To fail to give thought to these 
points can only lead to a -spoiled vege- 
table — spoiled in tendernegs, in loss of 
food value, and in loss of flavor. 



Happyvill( 



My sunny friend in Happyville 
Whose methods I would fain employ 
Has kept the morning in her heart — 
She keeps a diary of joy; 
Each day some blessing marks the page, 
Some face was kind, some welcome true, 
Some voice wrought magic with its tone 
In Happyville where skies are blue. 



Jkly frowning friend in Grouchyville 

To such Hght thought cannot give room, 

She sees through all chicanery 

And everything she says spells doom; — 

She is the world's mouthpiece of wrong, 

She sees each idol's feet of clay, 

She has felt treachery's mean stab, 

Been rudely pushed on life's highway. 



But somehow her discerning eyes — 
The scathing wisdom of her lips, 
Whene'er my sunny friend draws nigh, 
Retreat to shadowy eclipse; 
While sweet forgotten things of youth 
And present hopes and right good-will 
. Entice me back, with laughing lure, 
To glimpse the joys of Happyville. 

Elkanoi Robbins Wilson. 



Reading: A Safety Valve 

By Henriette W. Roberts 



WITHOUT doubt there is hard- 
ly a greater help to daily liv- 
ing, nothing that provides a 
better escape from the failings and 
weaknesses of human nature than the 
love of reading. Lacking it, many lives 
explode and are wrecked. 

I can see the ultimate unhappiness of 
a young couple, neither of whom read. 
The honey-moon is waning and the eve- 
nings drag most painfully. They are 
newcomers in the little suburban town, 
have few friends, no fads, and although 
they have a charmingly cosy home, the 
lack of desire to read spells satiety and 
emptiness. 

A woman, unhappily married to a sel- 
fish, brutal husband, told me that she 
kept sane and sweet because she loved to 
read. A good novel bore her away from 
her troubles, a poem of Tennyson or 
Browning inspired her to renewed effort, 
an essay of Emerson stimulated her to 
higher living. 

The non-reader is less refined in the 
choice of pleasures. Two brothers of 
my acquaintance illustrate this perfect- 
ly. Both are pleasant, likable fellows, 
keen business men, and fond of "good 
times." One, who barely reads the daily 
newspaper, thinks enjoyment is found 
only in exciting diversions, cards, melo- 



lady did not arrive until half-past two, 
a wait of two hours. The waiting lady 
had with her a book, which she read 
contentedly, glancing seldom at the 
clock. Without a book it would have 
taken "patience on a monument" not to 
have gotten up every few minutes to 
look out of the door, inwardly resentful 
and becoming more and more sullen. In 
this case, when the belated lady arrived, 
the reader was calm and unruffled, ready 
to accept the explanation and apology 
offered. 

Did you never notice that the kitchen 
maid, if a reader, does not crave so 
much the excitement of the dance or the 
society of the bold, improvident young 
man ? The maid, who is not a reader, is 
either out most of the time or she lets 
her work drag, because she knows not 
what to do with her leisure. The maid 
who reads merely the papers and maga- 
zines is easier to train and renders more 
efficient service. 

Alphonse, an Italian, after learning to 
read at night-school, began to "spruce 
up" and acquire an ambition to be some- 
thing more than a mere ditch-digger. 
He did finally become a good assistant 
gardener, with an eye on the position 
higher up. 

If you notice, the gossipy woman is 



drama, joy-rides. His conversation is almost invariably not a reader. The 



punctuated with slang and swearing and 
the big, blond, flashily-dressed woman is 
his admiration. The other, a reader of 
Scott, Hugo, Stevenson, as well as the 
"six best sellers," plays cards on occa- 
sion, sees the best plays, and motors in 
moderation. A quiet evening at home 
with a good book is a delight. The girl 
he admires is modest and unassuming. 

Reading may prove the preventive 
of ill-temper. A young woman had an 
appointment to meet another, at half- 
past twelve, at a certain bank. The other 



woman who talks hours on a stretch 
about what she used to do and omits not 
the smallest detail of the illness and 
death of a relative; the woman who 
rushes to the window every time a per- 
son or carriage goes by, and comments 
on the doings of her neighbors, never 
has a book on hand. 

A young wife of my acquaintance 
"nags" her husband for reading too 
much, for he spends most of his eve- 
nings absorbed in a book. Instead of 
complaining, that young woman ought 



904 



1 



AUTUMN 



205 



to clap her hands in joy, for, without 
doubt, that very reading habit keeps him 
away from the club with its high-balls 
and poker. 

A well-to-do widow in a large city is 
discontented, notwithstanding her beau- 
tiful clothes, a fine house and a limou- 
sine. She plays cards very little, attends 
the theatre seldom, entertains rarely, 
because she does not care for these 
things. Neither does she care for read- 
ing. Her life is empty and meager, when 
it might be rich and full, if she had been 
trained to a love of reading. 

An elderly woman, of violent temper, 
who has no friends and who never goes 
out because of a physical deformity, told 
rne that she gets crazy thinking of the 
same things. 'That we are born only to 
die. That the world is full of bad men 
and women, and everything is altogether 
horrid." This woman's hfe consists in 



daily abusing those with whom she 
eomes in contact. Surely the love of 
reading would help to a better control 
of temper, a desire to see and know 
what is going on in the world, and sug- 
gest paths to better living. Two things 
cannot occupy the same place at the 
same time, and, if one is occupied in 
reading or one's mind is filled with 
thoughts suggested by reading, there is 
that much respite from temper and the 
blues. 

I do not, of course, mean to maintain 
that, because individuals read, they are 
neither vicious nor criminal and neces- 
sarily good and nice, but I do assert that 
the love of reading is a resource and 
consolation in times of trouble and sor- 
row, an inspiration to refinement, and a 
safety-valve for emotional excitement 
and aimless living. Books are safe and 
genial companions. 



Autumn 



Out there in the meadow the crickets arc By ocean and river the breezes go chanting 



calling 

And frost-flakes are drifting their vanish- 
ing snows; 
While field mice are darting and pheasants 
upstarting 
Glean, after the reapers, the barley's long 
rows. 
In forests the squirrels are storing their 
largess 
Of nuts for the winter, an adequate store. 



And shipwrecks of sea-weed drift in with 
the tide. 
The sun crimson-glowing, a watch-man is 
growing 
And sea gulls drift, idly, in circles grown 
wide. 
O'er mountains the tempest hangs low 
with foreboding 
Of drifts that shall crown them with 
crystal once more; 



And cocoons are swinging, and birds No mortal foot daring to through them go 

southward winging, faring 

Since Autumn is with us and Summer is When Autumn is with us and Summer is 

o'er. o'er. 

But here's a "we greet you," and "happy to 

meet you," 
Crisp days that are coming with gifts for 

our cheer. 
Here's tribute of praises, fall fogs and fall 
hazes, 
For surely without you imperfect the 
year. 
You dampen our pathways with raindrops, 
slow falling. 
You spur us to duties we slighted of yore, 
And keen for the guerdon, we take up 
Life's burden 
When Autumn is with us and Summer if 
o'er. 

L. M. Thobntow. 



206 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OP 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To other Foreign Countriei 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



Household Gods 

The baby takes to her bed at night 

A one-eyed rabbit that once was white; 

A watch that came from a cracker, I think; 

And a lidless inkpot that never held ink. 

And the secret is locked in her tiny breast 

Of why she loves these and leaves the rest. 

And I give a loving glance as I go 
To three brass pots on a shelf in a row; 
To my grandfather's grandfather's loving- 
cup 
And a bandy-legged chair I once picked up. 
And I can't, for the life of me, make you sec 
Why just these things arc a part of me! 

J. H. Macnair. 



It is no great matter to associate with 
the good and gentle, for this is naturally 
pleasing to all. But to be able to live 
peacefully with hard and perverse per- 
sons, or with the disorderly, or with such 
as go contrary to us, is a great grace and 
a most commendable and manly thing. — 
Thomas a Kempis. 



THE FRUGAL MEAL 

FRUGALITY and economy arc 
watchwords of the hour. The high 
cost of living has become something 
more than a common saying. "The 
struggle for existence has become so 
keen that on every side economy must 
be practiced." 

The frugal meal is ever commendable. 
Aside from an economical point of view, 
it makes for health, comfort and longev- 
ity. Thereby labor is saved, waste is 
avoided and a degree of thrift becomes 
possible. 

But what is the frugal meal? In de- 
termining diet, many things must be 
taken into consideration, such as age, oc- 
cupation, individual traits and habits, 
mode of life, state of health, etc. For 
large numbers of people, however, the 
frugal breakfast, for instance, might con- 
sist of toasted bread or puffed wheat, a 
baked potato and slice of bacon or an 
tgg in some form, with coffee and rolls, 
according to convenience and desire. 
That is, a few articles well cooked and 
daintily served make up the frugal, as 
well as the ideal, meal. In general, not 
more than three dishes, with proper ac- 
cessories, can be served at one meal, and 
commendable frugality be maintained. 

Only carefully selected and well pre- 
pared viands are tasteful and wholesome. 
That enduring pleasure and satisfaction 
are to be derived from the frugal repast 
can not be denied or gainsaid. 

Therefore, we commend the cultiva- 
tion and practice of the homely, frugal 
meal, as most desirable in every sense. 
And in no other wise can the high cost 
of living be so successfully contended 
with. In the family, where no extrava- 
gance is allowed and no loss is incurred 
in the kitchen from ill-cooked and wasted 
food, there thrift and prosperity arc 
wont to be found. 



I 



A MATTER OF MORALITY 

T can not be denied that the great 
problems before us today are ceo- 



EDITORIALS 



207 



nomic in character, nor that, in the solu- 
tion of every great problem, the question 
of morality is foremost in importance. 
In all reforms moral issues can not be 
relegated to the background. 

In the most vital issue of the present 
day, the moral question is of chief con- 
cern and should be first regarded and 
settled. It seems to us that many people 
are making haste to place themselves in 
the wrong. Even those who are sup- 
posed to be professional teachers of 
ethics and morals, seem either to be in- 
different or to have allied themselves 
manifestly on the wrong side. 

Now, in every act or line of conduct, 
the point to settle first is that of moral- 
ity. One can ill afford to err here, for 
the day of reckoning will surely come. 

For our own part, we are convinced 
that true progress lies in the way of 
evolution and does not come by revolu- 
tion. We, also, believe in the strict ob- 
servance and practice of justice to all; 
while our ,faith is ever in the ultimate 
triumph of truth and right. 

TAXATION 

IN the long run people come to know 
what they want, and nothing is more 
apparent today than that people, in gen- 
eral, want low rates of taxation. In all 
ages, the world over, taxation not self- 
imposed, has been the cause of infinite 
trouble and confusion. The reasons for 
th>s are many and plain and need not 
be stated here. But common sense, as 
well as history, teaches that ''taxation 
without representation" is particularly 
odious to any people who aim to be free. 
Only recently the following statement 
was made publicly in reference to the 
state of Massachusetts: "Within the 
last ten years our state tax has actually 
increased 316 per cent, and this has 
come about while our population has 
only increased 20 per cent, and our to- 
tal valuation is far below the tax in- 
crease. Frankly and bluntly put, we are 
spending more money than we are earn- 
ing." If these figures be even approxi- 



mately correct, they indicate the need 
of efficiency and economy in the man- 
agement of public as well as of private 
business. 

People not only come to know what 
they want, but they also come to know 
the meaning and significance of terms 
and phrases. That a tariff is a tax and 
an unfair tax is now pretty well under- 
stood. At any rate, it has long been 
plain to the thoughtful that to set our 
faces steadfastly towards a reduction in 
rates of taxation of all kinds is both 
wise and prudent; for it is the most im- 
perative demand of the day. 

This magazine claims to inculcate the 
principles and practice of domestic eco- 
nomics. We stand for justice, fairness 
and prudence in the management of af- 
fairs that concern the home. Economics, 
in general, and home welfare can not be 
dissociated. 



One of the amazing things in the at- 
tempt to create prejudice against all men 
who have prospered in their doings is 
what seems to be entire forgetfulness of 
the origin of our millionaires. Where 
one has inherited wealth or gained it by 
the use of patronage, there are scores 
who have come up from the lowest strata 
of industrial life. The majority of the 
wealthy men of America were in the 
latter part of the last century poor boys. 
They were pedlers, telegraph operators, 
bar-tenders, mill operatives, miners, iron 
workers, and farmers. Their remark- 
able careers are due to the fact that, all 
things considered, the way is open from 
the bottom to tlie top for all boys and 
men who are temperate, industrious, 
skilful, and willing to work hard to get 
what they want. Some of the worst ex- 
amples that we have of the uses of pre- 
datory wealth are found in the career of 
men who were too ignorant and morally 
too imperfect to make proper use of the 
good fortune which the country and the 
time provided. That the opportunities to 
monopolize advantages have been too 
great, and that the rights of the people 



208 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



are not sufficiently guarded, all wise men 
now admit. Intelligent workingmen also 
see that it would be very easy to destroy 
their chunces of rising above the dead 
level of ignorance and the mediocrity 
caused by jealousy and suspicion of all 
who prosper. — Christian Register. 

PAST AND PRESENT 

l^EW have heard the name of Gon- 
thier d'Andernach, yet he is one of 
those bright particular stars which 
shone in the Constellation of the Re- 
formation. What Bacon was to phil- 
osophy, Dante and Petrarch to poetry, 
Michael Angelo and Raphael to paint- 
ing, Columbus and Gama to geog- 
raphy, Copernicus and Galileo to as- 
tronomy, that, says Louis Eustache 
Ude, was Gonthier to the art of cook- 
ery in France. Before him there was 
no code of the table; the names of 
dishes were strange and barbarous, 
like the dishes themselves. Can it be 
credited, cries our author, that the 
most witty and inventive of nations 
had not one single sauce that it could 
call its own ; it borrowed its dishes 
and their names from alien countries. 
There v/ere no written precepts, noth- 
ing but inconsistent recipes handed 
down from father to son, recipes whose 
antiquity was their only claim to es- 
teem. Then Gonthier appeared to 
raise the culinary edifice, as Descartes, 
a century after him, raised that of 
philosophy. Both suggested doubt, 
the one in the moral, the other in the 
physical w^orld. Descartes, regarding 
conscience as the point whence every 
philosophical enquiry should begin, re- 
generated the understanding. Gon- 
thier, establishing the nervous glands 
as the sovereign judges at table, over- 
turned the whole system of bromato- 
logical tradition. Gonthier is the father 
of cookery as Descartes is of French 
philosophy. If the latter inspired 
geniuses like Spinoza, Mallebranche, 
and Locke, the former has been fol- 



lowed by a succession of artists whoie 
names and talents will never be for- 
gotten, it is said that Gonthier in less 
than ten years invented seven cullis^s, 
nine ragoiits, thirty-one sauces, atid 
twenty-one soups. — The EpicuVe. 



Whatsoever task is set you to do, do it 
cheerfully, that your memory of it may 
be sweet. For, if a thing must be done, 
we shall like to remember that we did it 
with a whole heart and ung^rudgingly, 
since that which is done grudgingly 
availeth little, and is not the deed of the 
inner man at all, and that which is done 
heartily groweth light in the doing. — 
Letters from an Unknown Friend. 



Advice is thrown away on a young 
man who considers it beneath him to 
work at anything which hardens his 
hands or soils his garments ; but to the 
one who is not afraid of downright work 
I would suggest : frugality, investing sur- 
plus earnings (if only a dime a day) in 
the savings-bank, and reading useful 
books during leisure-hours. — Hunting- 
ton. 



There is an idea abroad among moral 
people that they should make their 
neighbors good. One person I have to 
make good : myself. But my duty to my 
neighbor is much more nearly expressed 
by saying that I have to make him happy 
if I may. — R. L. Stevenson. 



There is but one virtue : to help human 
beings to free and beautiful life ; but one 
sin : to do them indifferent or cruel hurt ; 
the love of humanity is the whole of 
morality. This is Goodness, this is Hu- 
manism, this is the Social Conscience. — 
/. William Lloyd. 



May your vacation have done you, 
physically and mentally, much good. 

May your interest in housekeeping be 
of greater benefit to you. 

May you live long and prosper. 



^M 


^^^^^^^^^WMbp__. ' ^_Q, ^^^^^1 


^^M 


HpBn^^lra^gljfe^i^'^ ^■*'^>. V 


m 




^^■fc^ ^-C^JIBi^ 


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^*^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 


^^i^^*^^^i^mimmisi!lll^^ 9 


1 


_^_JWT " ■^^""" 



PLANKED STEAK, SEE QUERY, 1894 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Brownie Canapes 

THESE canapes might be made of 
good size and used in place of 
sandwiches at a Hallowe'en 
occasion. Spread rounds of Boston 
brown or graham bread with cottage 
cheese ; spread the cheese with mayon- 
naise dressing, then simulate on the 
dressing the face of a brownie, using 
bits of red pepper or pimento for the 
purpose. Serve each canape on a grape 
leaf. Or garnish a plate filled with 
canapes with grape leaves. 

Watermelon Cocktail in Halves of 
^Nluskmelon 

Cut chilled muskmelon of small size 
in halves ; remove the seeds and any fila- 
ments present. Fill with half-inch 
cubes of chilled watermelon, mixed with 
powdered sugar and ground ginger, or 
with syrup flavored with champagne. 



Serve as a first course at luncheon or 
dinner. 

Sardine Canapes 

Spread lengthwise bits of bread with 
butter and let brown in a hot oven. 
When cold spread with sardine fillets, 
pounded with an equal measure of but- 
ter and seasoned with salt, paprika and 
a few grains of mustard or curry. Set 
half a choice sardine, freed of skin and 
bones, in the center of the paste. Dec- 
orate the corners with capers, spread 
mayonnaise mixed with chopped olives, 
parsley and chives over the fillets of fish 
and let chill thoroughly. Serve as a 
first course at luncheon or dinner. 

Canapes a la Selon 

Prepare rounds .of bread by buttering 
and toasting in the oven or by frying in 
fat. \Mien cold spread with butter, 
creamed with fine-chopped capers, olives 



209 



210 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and parsley ; add a few drops of lemon 
juice and a dash of paprika above each 
round. Set a thin slice of hard-cooked 



Tomato-and-Fish Soup 

Three pints of fish stock is needed. 




SARDINE CANAPES 



egg with a small teaspoonful of caviare 
in the center. 

Ham Soup 

Peel and slice a large mild onion; 
melt two tablespoonfuls of dripping (or 
fat from the soup kettle) ; in it stir and 
cook the onion until it is softened and 
yellowed ; add one quart of broth and a 
pint of tomatoes with half a small car- 
rot and two or three parsley branches^ 
Let the whole simmer very gently half 
an hour; add half to a full cup of cold, 
boiled ham, chopped very fine, and re- 
heat to the boiling point. Press with a 
pestle through a fine sieve ; return the 
soup to the fire, stir in a level table- 
spoonful of potato flour, smoothed with 
cold water and let simmer five or six 



This may be the water in which a fresh 
cod or haddock has been boiled. The 
head, bones, and trimmings of any white 
fish may also be used. Break up the 
fish bones, add an onion into which two 
or three cloves have been pushed, two 
or three branches, each, of parsley and 
sweet basil and cold water to cover the 
whole ; let simmer twenty minutes ; 
strain off the broth ; add one pint ot 
cooked tomatoes, pressed through a fine 
sieve, and two tablespoonfuls of a quick 
cooking tapioca and let cook over hot 
water until the tapioca is transparent. 
Season as needed with salt and pepper. 

Baked JNIackerel 

Brush a fish sheet with fat tried out 
of salt pork ; on the sheet set a carefully 




BROILED BEEFSTEAK, WITH BANANAS 



minutes. Season with pepper and salt 
and ^finish with a cup of hot cream. 
Serve with bread croutons. 



cleaned, washed and dried fresh mack- 
erel, skin side down. Put some strips of 
fat pork above. Set into a hot oven and 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



211 



let cook about twenty-five minutes, bast- Corned Beef Hash, witli Fried 
ing several times with the fat in the Onions 

pan. SVuIq the fish upon a hot disli ; 



'.^^ 




— *^_^ 


1 

M 


ssS^^jf^^ '^ V* .^ 


0- - '^ * ^^^ff^^^B 


mii 


:r\ "■■ 








-—.--__ 







CORNED BEEF HASH. WITH FRIED ONIOiNS 



Spread with two or three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, creamed with a teaspoon ful of 
fine-chopped parsley and mixed with a 
teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

Broiled Beefsteak, with Bananas 

Broil a beefsteak in the usual manner. 
While the steak is cooking, have ready 
bananas, peeled, scraped, cut in halves 
lengthwise and crosswise to make four 
pieces of each banana. Roll the bananas 
in flour and saute in a little hot bacon 
or salt pork, or in olive oil, until deli- 
catelv colored, first on one side and then 



Chop fine an equal quantity of cold 
corned beef and boiled potatoes ; stir in 
a little broth or boiling water and turn 
into hot salt pork fat or dripping in a 
hot frying pan ; stir and cook until hot 
throughout, then let stand to color and 
crust slightly on the bottom. Turn on 
to a hot serving dish. Surround with 
fried onions and serve at once. 

Fried Onions 

Cut mild peeled onions in thin slices 
and separate the slices into rings, ~" 
the rings in 



Dip 

milk and toss them in a 




SUPREME OF SWEETBREADS 



on the other Serve on the edge of the 
steak and entirelv around it. 



plate of flour. Shake oil superfluous 
flour and let fry in deep fat until tender, 



212 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



crisp and well colored, 
paper. 



Drain on soft 



Supreme of Sweetbreads 

Blanch a pair of choice sweetbreads 
and remove skin, tubes and other iined- 
ible portions. Slice half a small onion 
and half a small carrot into a small cas- 
serole; on these lay the sweetbreads, 
cover with the rest of the vegetables and 
two or three branches of parsley. Pour 
in one-fourth a cup, each, of white broth 
and white wine or tomato puree, cover 
and let cook in a moderate oven about 



mold in the ice water, pour in a few 
spoonfuls of aspic and, when set, dispose 
chopped truffles in a narrow wreath next 
to the mold. Set asparagus tips and fig- 
ures, cut from truffles, on the bottom; 
add a few drops of liquid aspic to hold 
each in place, then cover completely with 
aspic. Set asparagus tips against the in- 
side of the mold, tips downward, to line 
it completely. Have the Bechamel mix- 
ture on the point of setting and dispose 
this between the slices of sweetbread, set 
one after another across the mold. Do 
not dispose the slices flat, but narrow 




KOHL-RABI SALAD 



forty minutes. Set the sweetbreads on 
a plate, cover with a board, bearing a 
weight, and let stand until thoroughly 
chilled. Then cut in thin slices. To 
three-fourths a cup of hot, cleared con- 
somme or chicken broth add three- 
fourths a tablespoonful of gelatine, 
softened in a scant fourth a cup of cold 
water and let chill slightly. To a pint of 
Bechamel sauce (the liquid chicken 
broth and cream, half and half) add the 
strained liquid from the sweetbreads, a 
tablespoonful of gelatine, softened in 
one-fourth a cup of cold water, one or 
two tablespoonfuls of truffle trimmings, 
chopped fine, and the trimmings from a 
bupch or can of cooked asparagus 
pressed through a sieve. Let chill in ice 
water. Set a mold holding three cups 
into ice water ; when chilled pour in a 
little of the cooled aspic and turn the 
mold to coat the inside a little. Set the 



edge down, that, when the superme is 
sliced across the mold, whole slices may 
be served. When unmokled serve with 
lettuce, cress or celery salad. 

Kohl-Rabi Salad 

Use only the upper half of the globes 
of kohl-rabi. Pare neatly and let cook 
in boiling water, adding salt near the 
last of the cooking. Rinse in cold water, 
drain and let chill. Cut the globes in 
thin triangular pieces (as a pie is cut). 
Dispose on heart leaves of lettuce. Set 
mayonnaise above. 

Shirred Eggs 

Take as many tablespoonfuls, each, of 
sifted bread crumbs (soft) and chopped 
chicken, veal or ham as persons to serve. 
Mix the meat and crumbs to a batter 
with cream. Season with salt and pep- 
per. Butter small tgg shirrers ; spread a 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



213 



spoonful of the batter over the bottom 
of each dish, break in a fresh egg and 
pour over a generous spoonful of the 
batter. Let cook in a moderate oven 
until the egg is set. 



become hot throughout. If the beans 
are rather dry, use a little more of the 
puree. When done there should not be 
an overabundance of liquid. 




CREAM CHEESE-AND-PIMENTO SANDWICHES 



Curry of Baked Beans 

This dish may be made of left-over 
Boston baked beans, or a tablespoonful 
of curry powder and two onions, sliced 
and cooked brown in two tablespoon fuls 
of salt-pork fat, may be added to one 
pint of pea beans after they are dis- 
posed in the bean pot. For a pint 
of the left over beans, slice an onion 
in two tablespoonfuls of salt-pork 
fat, stir constantly and let cook until 
browned delicately ; add from half to a 
whole tablespoonful of curry powder 
and half a cup of tomato puree and let 
simmer ten minutes, then strain over the 
beans, cover and set into the oven to 



Cream Cheese-and-Pimento 
Sandwiches 

Cut thin slices of Boston Brown and 
white bread into rounds ; cut the rounds, 
with the same cutter, to change each into 
a crescent and an oval-shaped piece. 
Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in as much or 
more cream or cottage cheese and one or 
two chopped pimentos. Spread on the 
pieces of white bread and press the 
brown bread above. 

Philadelpliia Butter Buns 

]\Iix a cake of compressed yeast 
through one- fourth a cup of scalded- 




PHILADELPHIA BUTTER BUNS 



214 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




CANNED CARROTS. STRING 

and-cooled milk, then add to one cup of 
scalded-and-cooled milk; stir in about 
one cup and a half of bread flour, then 
beat the batter until very smooth. Cover 
and let stand, out of all draughts, until 
light. Add one-fourth a cup, each, of 
sugar and shortening, two yolks of eggs, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, a grating of 
lemon rind or one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of mace, with flour enough for a dough. 
About two cups will be required. Knead 
until smooth and elastic. Cover close 




SWEET PICKLED PEARS 



BEANS, TOMATOES AND BEETS 

and set aside to become doubled in bulk. 
Turn upside down on a board, roll into 
a rectangular sheet, spread with soft- 
ened butter, dredge with sugar and 
cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and 
roll as a jelly roll. Cut into pieces about 
an inch and a quarter long. The dough 
will make sixteen buns. Butter well the 
bottom of a pan of the proper size and 
dredge generously with brown sugar; 
set the buns on the sugar and let become 
light. Bake in a moderate oven. Turn 
upside down. The sugar and butter 
should glaze the bottom of the buns. 
Serve with coffee or cocoa. These are 
good, reheated. Two or three table- 
spoonfuls of butter and nearly half a 
cup of sugar are none too much on the 
pan. 

Sweet Pickled Pears (One Quart 
Jar) 

Cut seven or eight fair-sized pears in 
halves, remove cores and skin and press 
one or two cloves into each half-pear. 
Put two cups of brown sugar, half a cup 
of vinegar and two sticks of cinnamon 
bark, broken in pieces, over the fire. 
When boiling add a few pieces of the 
pears and let cook until tender. Re- 
move to a sterilized jar. When all are 
cooked, fill the jar to overflow with the 
syrup, adjust and tighten the rubber and 
cover and set aside in a cool place. 

Apple-and-Elderberry Jelly 

Pull the elderberries from the stems 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



215 



and let heat over the fire until the juice 
runs, then strain through a bag. Re- 
move imperfections from the apples and 
cut them in quarters; barely cover with 
cold water, cover and let simmer undis- 
turbed until soft throughout, then press 
through a bag. To three cups of apple 
juice add one cup of the elderberry 
juice. Let boil twenty minutes; add 
four cups of sugar, made hot in the 
oven, and let boil till the syrup will jell 
on a cold plate. Store in sterilized glass. 

Pickled String Beans 

Select tender beans, keep them full 
length, but prepare otherwise as for the 



Beat two whole eggs and one yolk 
until well mixed ; add half a tea-poonful 
of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, 
one-third a cup of sifted bread crumbs 
(soft), two tablespoon fuls of melted 
butter and one cup of tomato puree 
Turn into buttered timbale molds. Set 
these on many folds of paper in a baking 
dish. Surround with boiling water. Bake 
in a moderate oven until the mixture is firm 
in the center. The water should not boil 
during the cooking. Remove the molds 
from the water. After two or three min- 
utes unmold. Serve with cream sauce. 

Lvonnaise Carrots 




LEMON SPONGE PIE. (MISS SHEA) 



table. Cover with boiling water and let 
boil ten to fifteen minutes ; drain, rinse 
in cold water and drain again. Pour on 
vinegar, scalding hot. to cover the beans. 
They will be ready to eat the next day. 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Beat three tablespoonfuls of butter to 
a cream ; gradually beat in one cup and a 
half of sugar, then the beaten yolks of 
three eggs, the grated rind of one lemon 
and the juice of one lemon and a half. 
Mix three rounding tablespoonfuls of 
flour in half a cup of milk and stir into 
the mixture, then gradually stir in one 
cup of milk and, lastly, fold in the 
whites of three eggs, beaten dry. Bake 
in a pie plate, lined with pastry as for a 
custard pie. Bake about forty-five 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

Tomato Timbales 



Cut young tender carrots, well- 
scraped and washed, into lengthwise 
quarters ; let cook in rapidly boiling 
water until nearly tender, then drain and 
dry on a cloth. For a pint of carrot, 
melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
frying pan — clarified butter is best — ; 
add a teaspoonful of sugar, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and the carrots ; shake 
and turn the carrots until the butter is 
absorbed and the carrots well glazed. 
Turn into a hot dish and sprinkle with 
a scant tablespoon ful of fine-chopped 
parsley. 

Cauliflower Fritters, Villeroi 

Cook a choice head of cauliflower in 
the usual manner and separate it into 
flowerets. Let become thoroughly cold. 
Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls, 
each, of butter and flour, half a cup, 
each, of chicken broth and cream and 



216 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper; add the beaten yolk of an 



granulated sugar or one cup and three- 
fourths of confectioner's sugar (sifted) 




ALMOND MACAROONS WITH JELLY AND CHOCOLATE MACAROONS 



tgg and if convenient a rounding table- 
spoonful, each, of fine-chopped ham and 
chicken. Lastly, add a tablespoonful of 
granulated gelatine, softened in one- 
fourth a cup of cold chicken broth or 
water. Stir over ice-water until the 
sauce thickens somewhat, then use to 
coat completely the cold flowerets of 
cauliflower. To coat, dip them into the 
sauce and set on a buttered plate. Re- 
move to a cool place to become firm, 
then carefully dip in fritter batter and 
fry in deep fat. Serve at once, alone, as 
an entree, or with the meat course. 

Fritter Batter for Cauliflower 

Beat the yolks of two eggs and add 
half a cup of milk. Sift together one 
cup of flour, half a teaspoonful. each, of 
salt and pepper, and gradually beat in 
the yolks and milk ; lastly, fold in the 
whites of two eggs, beaten dry. 



and when well-beaten beat in, one at a 
time, the unbeaten whites of two more 
eggs. Beat the whole until very light. 
Shape in small, smooth rounds (with a 
teaspoon) in baking pans lined with 
waxed paper. Set a bit of fruit jelly on 
each. Bake in a moderate oven from ten 
to fifteen minutes. Select large eggs. 

Chocolate Macaroons 

]\Ielt two ounces of chocolate over hot 
water and work into the above mixture, 
before or after adding the last two 
whites of eggs. 

Melba Ice Cream, Alaska Style 

From sponge cake, half an inch thick, 
cut out rounds for individual service. 
Dispose on paper doilies set on a board. 
On these set a square slice of vanilla 
ice cream ; on this set half a peach, 
holding a tablespoonful of Melba sauce 



1^^ 


^^^^^P%\^, 






k/^^^^B 




^--fc^-^'---^ 


^ 

^ 


* ■ 1^ 





MELBA ICE CREA^L BAKED ALASKA STYLE 



Almond Macaroons, with Jelly 

Beat one cup of almond paste and one 
unbeaten white of egg until smooth 
throughout ; gradually beat in one cup of 



(thick raspberry sauce) ; over this dis- 
pose ice-cream in dome-shape ; cover 
with meringue, dredge with granulated 
sugar, and set on the board into a hot 
oven to brown the meringue delicately. 



Menus for Week in October 

Any causes which limit the food supply or increase the burden of securing ade- 
quate nourishment strike a blow at a nation's vital powers. — Jordan. 



Breakfast 

Eggs, Shirred, with crumbs and Ham 

Pulled Bread 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Peach Butter Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Ham Soup 

Broiled Beef Steak, Bananas Sauted 

Scalloped Potatoes Cauliflower Fritters 

Peach Sherbet Jelly Macaroons 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Fresh Lima-Bean Salad 

(Juliennes of Green Pepper, Cress and 

Baked Apples, Cottage Cheese 

Buttered Toast French Dressing) 

Tea Cocoa 



< 
Q 

W 
D 
H 



Breakfast 

French Omelet P>ench Fried Potatoes j 

Parker House Rolls, Reheated 

Baked Apples 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 

Celery 

Apple Dumpling 

Tea 

Dinner 

Baked Bluefish or ^Mackerel 

Cabbage Salad Mashed Potatoes 

Cauliflower, Cream Sauce 

Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Smoked Beef, Creamed 

Small Potatoes, Baked 

Fried Mush, Syrup 

Coffee, Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cheese Custard 

Lettuce-and-Kohl Rabi Salad 

Sliced Peaches 

Macaroons Tea 

Dinner 

Fore quarter of Lamb, Boiled, 

Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Turnips 

Baked Tapioca Custard Pudding 

Vanilla Sauce 

Half cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Sausage, Fried Apples 

White Corn-Meal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Tomato Rabbit on Toast 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad 

Grapes 

Dinner 

Fowl en Casserole 

Tomato Salad 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Junket Ice Cream, Vanilla 

(Caramel Sauce with Nuts) 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Top Milk 

Plam, Fried Eggs, Hashed Potatoes 

Fruit-and-Nut Rolls 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Salt fish Souffle 

Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing or 

Pickled^ String Beans 

French Doughnuts 

Apple Marmalade 

Tea 

Dinner 

Lamb Pilau, Turkish Style 

Shell Beans, Stewed 

Parker House Rolls 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Half Cups of Coft'ee 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Balls 

New Cucumber Pickles 

Fried Cereal Mush, Syrup 

Rye Meal Muffins Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Tomato Timbales, Cream Sauce 

Apple Pie Edam Cheese 

Half Cups of Coft'ee 

Dinner 

Cream of Spinach Soup, Croutons 

Fillets of Fresh Fish Fried in Deep Fat. 

(egged and breaded) 

Sauce Tartare 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style 

Cauliflower. Hollandaise Sauce 

Lemon Sherbet Sponge Cake 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cold, Boiled Calf's Tongue 

(pickled) 

Creamed Potatoes 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Fried Cereal Mush 

Coffee Cocoa 



Luncheon 

Macaroni, Milanaise 

Stuffed Tomato Salad 

Apple Fritters 



217 



Dinner 

Roast L(jinof \ eal.with Dressfng 

Franconia Potatoes 

Egg Plant. Fried 

Crab Apple Jelly 

Custnrd Soufiie, Sabayon Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Special Menus for October 



LUNCHEONS 



I 



Watermelon Cocktail in Halves of Muskmelon 

Fried Oysters, Sauce Tartare 

Truffled Chicken, Mousseline, 

Sauce Supreme 

Parker House Rolls 

Mayonnaise of Stuffed Tomatoes on Lettuce 

Leaves 

Cheese Balls (fried in deep fat) 

Graham Bread Sandwiches 

Melba Ice Cream, Baked Alaska Style 

Coffee 



n 



Canapes a la Selon 

Chicken-and-Oyster Broth 

Browned Crackers 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Fried, 

Potato Diamonds with Late Peas 

Sauce Tartare 

Lamb Chops, Maintenon Style 

Lettuce, Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Peach Bombe Glace 

Boiled Sponge Cake 

Coft'ee 



LITTLE DINNERS 



I 



Consomme a la Royal 

Bread Sticks 

Rolled Fillets of Fresh Fish, Baked, 

Fish Bechamel Sauce 

(Served in Individual Casseroles) 

Cucumber Salad 

Yeast Rolls 

Roast Guinea Chickens 

Guava Jelly 

Rice Croquettes 

Scalloped Egg Plant 

Celery-and-Pear Salad 

Charlotte Russe, with Maca;oons 

Coffee 



II 



Grapes of Various Colors 

on Grape Leaves 

Consomme, with Quenelles 

Truffled Halibut Timbales 

Hollandaise Sauce 

French Artichoke Bottoms, Stuffed 

Bechamel Sauce 

French Fried Potatoes 

Apple Mint Jelly 

Banana Fritters, Wine Sauce 

Lettuce and Garden Cress 

Cup St. Jacques 

Small Lemon Queens 

Coffee 



C [AFING DISH SPREADS 



II 



Brownie Canapes 

New Pickles Olives 

Chicken a la King 

Lady Finger Rolls Little Mocha Cakes 

Nougatines Coffee 



Canapes a la Selon 

Creamed Oysters on Toast 

Mayonnaise of Celery and Pineapple 

Salad Rolls 

Coffee 



CARD PARTY SPREADS 



II 



Boiled Ham in Aspic Jeily 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Parker House Rolls 

Coffee 

Frozen Apricots 

Macaroons 



Tomato-and-Egg Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Grape Juice Frappe 

Marshmallow Cake 



218 










^:)v?^ 




Novel Ideas from Poland and Constantinople, 
France and New York 

T)ark Meats Cooked in Foreign Fashion 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



LONG ago we learned that it was 
wise to listen to what men say, 
even casually, about food and 
cookery. It may be only a persoial gas- 
tronomic rhapsody about some dish en- 
joyed, with no inform.ation of great 
value, and yet again, many times, a great 
deal may be learned about the material, 
its preparation and wisely chosen acces- 
sories. New fruits and beverages are 
thus made more familiar, when next one 
comes across them personally in travel- 
ing, or when reference to them is made 
in books or lectures upon travel. 

A recent chat with an intelligent Ger- 
man-American about his childhood days 
on his father's comfortable place in 
Prussian Poland, started a hunt, 
through many a printed cookery book 
and files copied for reference, for the 
dish he mentioned as something not 
known in American homes. 

Mr. Hermann Just, describing food 
he remembered in Prussian Poland as a 
child, spoke of the crop of poppy seed, 
which was used for making a deHcate oil 
for the table ; also, the poppy seeds were 
stewed for other dishes. These seeds 
were not the small black ''mohn" com- 
mon on nice rolls at German bakeries. 
He also referred to smoked breast, fat 
livers, etc., of geese and described the 
cooking of a goose slowly in a covered 
dish with fruits. Evidently the process 
known as braising was meant, — prunes, 
pears and mushrooms were used, he 
said; also a little vinegar, the latter to 



cut the fat, presumably. He said the 
sauce was indescribably rich and deli- 
cious. Finally, dumplings were made 
for it. 

At first, the American palace revolted 
at the combination, and the first thought 
was: No one but a German cook would 
put such things together ! Then memory 
got to work and suggested: Did not 
Maria Blay publish something in Har- 
per's Bazar long ago about cooking 
Guinea Fowl with Prunes? And guinea 
meat is like goose! And Swedish cooks 
put dried currants into roast veal stuf- 
fing, if you do not forbid them. And that 
advertising pamphlet from New York, a 
pretty book sent out by Reiss & Brady, 
has a recipe from a chef at The Plaza 
Hotel, a recipe quite similar, for cooking 
another dark bird, the partridge, that is, 
if quail be meant ; for in some states the 
quail is called the partridge, and not the 
grouse, which has a white breast. This 
Partridge En Casserole is another cor- 
roboration of the Prussian Poland 
recipe. And away back in a big *' Jumbo" 
book of copied recipes from hundreds 
of sources did we not find a friend's 
recipe from Constantinople. Here was 
Mutton with Apricots and Quinces and 
Spinach in Brown Gravy. This shows 
the whole world is a brotherhood of 
cooks, using what they have in their 
own difTerent countries in very much 
the same way. 

The exact methods and proportions of 
this Polish recipe for goose the inform- 



219 



220 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ant could not give, only the general 
process. A sister was consulted, and she 
did not recall as much as the boy re- 
membered of their native land, but she 
gave a Polish apple soup that is novel. 
By comparing the hints as given by the 
other authorities before referred to, 
which are sub-joined, and practicing a 
bit, the reader can get a satisfactory 
comprehension of the novelty and suit it 
to the family taste. 

It is well to try a new dish in a small 
way, at first, and then say nothing about 
novel ingredients until it has been tasted, 
for the average American is conserva- 
tive and will reject without tasting, or 
declare a novelty is not nice, from too 
speedy prejudice. 

In similar fashion Anglo-Indian cur- 
ries are made from meat, with some acid 
fruit juice, such as lemon, rhubarb, etc., 
and pounded cocoanut, mango pulp, and 
a dozen spices and aromatic seeds. And 
it is almost the same thing to use cran- 
berry sauce with turkey, sour apple 
sauce on roast pork, and apple fritters 
with sausages, as to cook an acid fruit, 
like quinces, with a meat. Let us read 
first what Maria Blay says of 

"Guinea Hen with Prunes" 

"Singe and draw a young fat guinea 
hen. Wipe inside with a clean, damp 
towel; sprinkle inside with one tea- 
spoonful of salt and one-half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper. Put inside one- 
half a tablespoonful of butter. Truss 
lightly and make it look plump. Rub 
over it one teaspoonful of salt and half 
a salt-spoonful of pepper. 

"Butter thickly a baking pan, and lay 
in the guinea, with three tablespoonful^ 
of good broth, or one-half a tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter and three table- 
spoonfuls of water. 

"Cover with buttered paper. Bake in 
a moderate oven forty minutes. Pre- 
viously prepare one pound of prunes, by 
washing and cooking in a pint of cold 
water thirty minutes. Remove the fruit 
carefully and take out the stones, and 



return the fruit to the juice, with four 
tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. 
Simmer fifteen minutes and arrange 
around the guinea upon the platter." 

Some lemon peel, or sour orange peel, 
cooked with the prunes, would enhance 
the dish for some people. 

The friends, who lived in Turkey and 
praised the dish of mutton and fruits, 
could not tell just how it was prepared, 
but said the general directions were as 
follows : 

Mutton with Quinces, Etc. 

Cut up the mutton, both fat and lean ; 
cut it rather small and boil it with some 
quinces ; then add it to the following 
that have been cooked separately, i.e.. 
some apples, large, sweet apricots, broad 
beans and slices of oriental cucumbers 
that resemble our squashes or cymlings. 
Pour the rich brown gravy over all. This, 
with bread, made an exceedingly hearty 
luncheon, which they liked exceedingly 
during a long residence in Constanti- 
nople. Mutton was also cooked with 
apricots and spinach ; this was dressed 
with oil. 

Here is a recipe from an Oriental 
which seems much the same dish: 

Quince Yukne: By Zahera 

Pare and core two and one-half 
pounds of quinces, as you would for 
preserves. Boil them tender. Cut a 
pound of meat into small pieces and fry 
it brown in dripping before boiling it in 
water, with a little salt in it, but no pep- 
per, until the meat is well done. Then 
add the quince and let both simmer fif- 
teen minutes. Serve with rice. 

Pears, apricots, and apples, even the 
dried ones, may be prepared in the same 
manner, and lemon juice added to them 
is an improvement. 

And now comes the recipe from the 
chef at The Plaza in New York City. 
Notice how very similar it is to the 
Prussian-Poland recipe given by Mr. 
Just: 

Partridge en Casserole 



THE LIGHT OF LIFE 



221 



Place in the bottom of a casserole a 
mirepoix of sliced pear, apple and 
quince. Stuff the partridge with fresh 
hashed mushrooms (or canned mush- 
rooms may be used) and pecan-nut 
meats; season to taste. Place the part- 
ridge in a hot oven to color; then trans- 
fer, breast up, to the casserole, arranged 
as above. Pour in half a pint of cham- 
pagne, and season the bird with celery- 
salt and pepper; seal the casserole and 
place it in a moderate oven until done. 
Do not unseal the casserole until it has 
reached the table. 

Without doubt the grouse is meant by 
the term partridge in this case, since a 
single quail would be too small a bird to 
thus stuff and treat en casserole. 

Wine is used in this recipe, cham- 
pagne and not vinegar, as mentioned for 
the Polish goose, although wine could be 
used in that. The donor of the recipe 
said that wine could be used in place of 
vinegar and that an excellent wine was 
made from pears combined with the 
grapes in the press ; and rhubarb, also, 
can be used with grapes for a cooking 
wine. A pie of pears flavored with this 



wine, he said, was fine; and the wine 
is nice for mincemeat. 

And now, last, but not least, comes the 
apple soup remembered by the sister, 
who did not recall the braised goose 
with fruits. Since it is a family recipe, 
it is linked here with the meat dishes, 
hoping it may prove of interest, and be 
tried, since the ingredients would cost 
little on many a farm. It is like most 
German fruit-soups made without meat. 
These consist of a puree of fruit, straw- 
berries, cherries, raisins, prunes or apri- 
cots. Usually they are flavored with 
wine. They can be served hot or iced, 
and zwieback is served with them. The 
soup when served cold is put in small 
glass bowls or cups. 

Apple Soup (Mrs. Haas, Spring- 
field, Ohio) 
Heat some fresh apple juice and some 
milk, using more milk than apple juice. 
Season with salt, sugar, and a lump of 
butter. Thicken wits sago or tapioca; 
or, instead of the sago and tapioca, dice 
of toasted bread may be added just 
before serving. 



The Light of Life 

Oh, the magic of summer eves when life Within my dream the Beautiful perfect 

was new, grew; 

The world enfolded in glory that made My soul all day, like a bird at dawning, 

it young, — sung 

The joy-light, life of my heart, the love of The joy-light, life of my heart, the love of 



you! 



you! 



What breathing of vows where soft winds How rapt the silences our hearts spoke 
whispering flew, through — 

Tilting gold censers the honeysuckle Deep spirit-harmonious that hushed the 



swung! 



tongue! 



Oh, the magic of summer eves when life Oh, the magic of summer eves when life 
was new! was new! 

The sky was warm with fire of stars; the 
dew 
Like glad eyes flamed; light through my 
pulses sprung, — 
The joy-light, life of my heart, the love of 
you! 

Still hand in hand! The silver is brighter, 

too. 
Than golden hair! The charm through 

the years has clung — 
Oh, the magic of summer eves when life 

was new, 
The joy-light, life of mv heart, the love of 

70tt! Stokxly S. FitHxa. 



A Family Where The Boys Are Proud to Help 

By Clio Mamer 



NOT so very long ago a friend of 
mine gave a luncheon followed 
by a card party. To our sur- 
prise, her youngest brother, a lad of 
tvv^elve, waited upon us with an ease of 
manner which a well trained maid might 
envy. And this was not the only surprise 
which we experienced during the course 
of the afternoon, for when we compli- 
m.ented Donald upon his performance, 
he smiled and glanced towards his 
mother. It was then that Mrs. B. volun- 
teered the information that Donald had 
prepared the entire menu all by himself. 
And such a good luncheon it was, too! 
"Cream of tomato soup, pineapple and 
celery salad, chicken croquettes, with 
peas and mashed potatoes, peach ice- 
cream, and two different kinds of cake, 
and coffee." And everything, even the 
ice-cream and cake, made by our little 
chef ! We couldn't get over talking about 
it, and Donald, instead of being embar- 
rassed at our astonishment, was delight- 
ed. He even volunteered to give us the 
recipes for his delicious cakes. 

In speaking to his mother about it, 
afterwards, I asked her how she had 
ever managed to make such a fine cook 
out of him. 'Tndeed, I didn't have much 
to do with it," she answered modestly, 
"for he can cook better than I can. He 
seems to have a natural talent for it, and 
when I discovered it I encouraged him 
in every way possible. You see, each 
one of the boys has a certain amount of 
the housework to tend to, and I try to 
make each one a specialist in some cer- 
tain line. Donald is the cook, John does 
most all of the cleaning, and Robert, 
who is exceptionally strong for sixteen, 
keeps the floors in good condition. 
Doesn't this floor look nice?" she asked, 
pointing to the shiny, waxed parlor 
floor. "Robert gave it an extra fine pol- 
ishing this morning in honor of the 



party. You'll laugh when I tell you that 
Richard not only turns the washing 
machine for me, but he does a consider- 
able amount of the ironing as well. He 
can iron a shirt-waist or a pleated dress 
as well as any girl. They all take care 
of their own rooms, so that leaves very 
little work for me to do. And it's a good 
thing, too," she added, "for it keeps me 
busy just superintending my workers 
and looking out for baby." 

"Well, you certainly have a fine 
scheme for keeping house," I said, "but 
how did you ever manage to get the boys 
to help ? Most boys are ashamed to have 
it known that they have to do anything 
at home. Don't the other boys tease 
them on account of it?" 

"On the other hand, their playmates 
seem to envy them their skill," she an- 
swered. "In fact, there's many a twelve- 
year old in Donald's room at school who 
wishes he could cook as Donald can, for 
Donald is going to get a four weeks' 
camping trip this summer on the score 
of his ability as a cook. You see, his 
oldest brother, Fred, is going on a camp- 
ing trip with seven or eight other young f 
m.en about his own age, and they are 
very anxious to take Donald along to 
help them cook, and I am going to let 
him go, too, for I think he deserves the 
treat, and I know he'll be perfectly safe 
with Fred. Oh, no, indeed, they don't 
make fun of any of my boys for helping 
me," Mrs. B. laughed. "They can't very 
well be disrespectful to their football or 
baseball captains, can they?'* 

The secret was out. Mrs. B.'s boys 
were real live boys, in spite of the fact i 
that they could cook, and sew, and wash, 
and iron. There wasn't one of them 
who couldn't hold his place with any 
other boy in any task he might under- 
take to perform. They could row, and 
fish, and hunt, and play ball, and even 

922 



AT HENRIETTE'S 



223 



light when necessary, and their mother 
was just as interested in their play as 
she was in their work. That their schol- 
arship was not lowered in any way, on 
account of the assistance they gave at 
home, was proved when Donald insisted 
upon dragging his brother John into the 
room to show off the "Honors" which 
he had brought home from school. John 
attends a boys' school, which has its hol- 
iday on Thursday instead of Saturday, 
and which rewards the boy who has 
stood highest in his classes, during the 
month, with a small piece of red ribbon 
with the word "Honors" printed upon it 
in gold letters. 

"Most mothers," Mrs. B. went on to 
add, "consider it too much trouble to 
train their children to bear any of the 
household burdens. They say it is easier 
to do the things themselves than it is to 
stop and show the children how to do 
them, and then to watch and see that 
they do them properly. I think that is 
a great mistake, for it makes the chil- 
dren lazy, and they grow up without 
having any sense of responsibility." 

"But Mrs. B., doesn't it seem just the 
least bit queer to you to have the boys 
doing work which is usually allotted to 
the girls?" 

"I'll admit that it did, at first," she 
answered, "and probably, if the children 
had come in a different order, the girls 
might have done all the housework, but, 
you see, my two girls are the eldest and 
they are both working. So is Fred. That 
lets him out of helping at home to any 



great extent. I don't think it's fair for 
either girls or boys to have to fill two 
jobs. So there was no alternative ex- 
cept for the younger boys to do their 
share. I simply couldn't manage this big 
house all by myself, and Mr. B.'s salary 
does not justify our keeping a maid. 
The boys are all sensible fellows, and, 
once they realized that it was a ques- 
tion of assisting their mother and keep- 
ing her with them, or of letting her do 
all the work and thus run the danger of 
losing her, they were all eager to help." 

Here, to my mind, is one woman who 
has solved the servant problem in a very 
satisfactory manner. To this woman a 
family of three girls and four boys is no 
burden. She has trained them so that 
they not only can look after themselves, 
but after others as well. Even the baby 
girl, who has just turned four, had 
helped make things pleasant for us. 
Seated in her high-chair, she had shelled 
the peas. 

How many mothers train their chil- 
dren as this mother has trained hers! 
Is not her observation that most women 
refuse to be bothered with having the 
children puttering around correct? Or, 
if they do insist upon the girls doing 
their share, do they not let the greater 
part of the burden rest upon the elder 
daughter, who more often than not is 
working, and who, in more than one 
case, is obliged upon her return from a 
hard day's work to tidy up the house 
and wash the supper dishes, while the 
younger children are out at play? 



At Henriette's 



By Elsie James 



ALL the students and the artists 
of the Quartier know Henri- 
ette's. It took me five months 
to discover its charm, not because I 
had not heard it spoken of, but be- 
cause I had stubbornly resisted the 



entreaties of my friends to accompany 
them there. "Humph!" I growled— 
"those cafes are all romance and bad 
dinner, with a raft of red-Baedekercd 
Americans to spoil" it all!" And now 
I am one of the charmed circle. 



224 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



I remember well the first time H. 
dragged me there. "This is the 
famous Leopold Robert," he cried — 
rushing me past the awe-inspiring line 
of concierges — ''the shortest and gos- 
sipiest street in dear old Paris. The 
famous washerlady author of Marie 
Claire lives there, and there," ex- 
claimed he excitedly, "is Henriette's." 
I sniffed, all I could see was a modest 
sign of "Creamerie" swinging over a 
modest door. 

At first I was disgusted — the nar- 
row entry — the glimpses I got of the 
kitchen with its "plats" spread out in 
view — the wall-case of napkins in their 
yellow rings — the reserve of v/ine bot- 
tles — the big lumps of bread recalled 
too vividly a third class American 
boarding house. But after we had 
found our table and the room began to 
fill, I felt differently. "Look at those 
mural decorations," cried I enthusi- 
astically — "aren't they just nice? and 
the signature in the corner! By jove, 
how did they get here?" I asked. 
"Listen," said H. — between the mouth- 
fuls of Henriette's most famous ome- 
lette — "When Miss S. first began to 
work seriously, she lived here in the 
Quartier; things did not go very well 
that first winter, for her one decent 
meal she came here — but didn't have 
money enough to pay for it. Hen- 
riette felt sorry for her and let her run 
up a bill. Finally, not having the 
m.oney, but knowing the value of her 
work, she transformed these bare 
walls for the delighted Henriette. 
Thus" — finished H. — "she has be- 
queathed us the wonderful History of 
the Queen of Hearts." In truth, the 
coloring is effective and the legend 
well executed, the "ensemble" lends 
an air of romance and mystery. At 
night with the soft light of the candles 
the quaint procession seem.s to march 
around the room. However, I do not 



think the knave would get very far, he 
is knock-kneed. "And who is this 
Henriette?" I asked. "Oh, a robust 
French woman with a genius for cook- 
ery which is distinctly French, and a 
sense for orderliness which is not. She 
opened this cafe some ten years ago — 
making a modest beginning with one 
store and a tiny serving room." 

The room was quite full now, and I 
turned my attention to ''mes volsinsf 
"Who is that fellow in the norfolk? an 
artist, I wager." "Rather — he is the 
V,- ell-known X. — the 'point de mire of 
our reunions here; Marie and Jeanne 
just run to wait on him, that is his table, 
and only the most famous few are al- 
lov/ed to sit with him. The man next is 
an Oriental who has taken all sorts of 
honors at the Sorbonne. That queer 
crab in the fez, American, I believe, a 
missionary in Turkey — married a Turk- 
ish woman — (heard him say so himself) 
for the good of the cause. Oh, we have 
all sorts of cosmopolitans here." 

I began to feel alive. "It is a pro- 
gressive sort of game here," he added — 
"just come often — have your own table 
and, by and by, if they like you and if 
you are doing something big, you will 
yet attain the wonderful X.'s table." 

Of course the dinner was wonderful, 
the something in the atmosphere more 
wonderful still and the roomful grew 
into one intimate circle. I watched H. 
in amazement as he put his ten centimes 
under the plate. He laughed, "that's 
one of our rules here." At the door 
Susanne with her chalk and slate "/a/- 
sait I' addition'' Of course I went away 
captivated only to return again and 
again. 

No one can exactly describe the fasci- 
nation of Henriette's, but it is there. 
Wander in any night and find out how 
like "Boule Miche," how like the "Gar- 
dens," like all the Quartier, in fact, it has 
its mysterious subtle charm. 




IDEAS <fi 



ECON°MIE-3 




Contributions to this department v/ill be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Systematic Eiiinination 

HOW many homes one goes into that 
have perfectly useless, homely 
things in conspicuous places! What a 
gain for repose and beauty, to say noth- 
ing of space, if these objects could be 
eliminated! Those having real value or 
sentiment could be shut av/ay in a closet, 
for a time, to be enjoyed later; others 
could be given for grabs or mysteries at 
fairs; others to people with little. I 
know a woman who regularly goes 
through every room, closet and drawer, 
passing on books, magazines, ornaments, 
pictures, china and linen to greater use- 
fulness — sometimes into other depart- 
ments of her own home, and sometimes 
into other homes. b. c. e. 

* * * 

About Red Hands 

RED hands are so unsightly, and do, 
in spite of everything, remind one 
of the kitchen; many people, especially 
in winter, are greatly annoyed by them; 
if our readers will try the following old 
reliable remedy, they are sure to be well 
pleased with the inexpensive venture. 

Wash the hands thoroughly with good 
soap and luke-warm water before retir- 
ing; pat them dry on a soft linen towel; 
then rub into the skin a little of the fol- 
lowing lotion : Mix together, in a bottle, 
the strained juice of a lemon, the same 
quantity of rose water, and half the 
quantity of compound tincture of ben- 
zoine; shake before using, and do not 
wear tight sleeves. 



Some Valuable Hints 

When it is necessary to use pins, have 
only fine ones, nice and smooth, in your 
work basket, to hold patterns in place 
when cutting; they leave no trace when 
removed, and large ones often cause 
irreparable damage. 

A convenient pincushion for sewing 
machine or the dress while working, is 
made by covering a surgeon's sponge 
with soft wool goods; attach a loop of 
ribbon to one corner; soak, wash in 
warm v/ater and dry the sponge before 
covering it; this makes it soft and pli- 
able. 

When a drawn work or hemstitched 
article gives way, it may be repaired by 
stitching over it a strip of lace or em- 
broidery insertion ; it is very satisfactory 
as well as pretty, and adds new life to 
the article. 

To hang a dress skirt is often a very 
trying problem to a novice. Here is a 
never-failing rule : Fit the skirt, put it 
on the band and press it; put it on; 
stand squarely on both feet, and place a 
yard stick on the floor, holding it up to 
the person; with it measure up thirty 
inches and put a pin in the skirt ; do this 
at five inch intervals all way around; 
take off skirt, and if you want it two 
inches from the ground, measure and 
baste it twenty-seven inches from the 
pins, downward; three inches from 
ground, twenty-six inches. Have some- 
one measure for the pins around the 
upper part, as bending over you cannot 
get it straight yourself. l. n. 



225 



226 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Easy Laundry Work 

AFTER spending many years and 
untold hard labor in washing ac- 
cording to the old way, I have, at last, 
been persuaded to adopt a new method, 
which has proved a boon, indeed, in sav- 
ing my back and, not least of all, my 
time. It is as old as the hills, but preju- 
dice and *'the way mother did" habit 
keeps many a woman following in the 
footsteps of her ancestors, wearily ob- 
livious to new labor-saving devices. 

Thy system? Yes, it is the cold 
water way. Try it on one of these hot 
days and you will be converted unwit- 
tingly. First, select Tuesday as a wash- 
day, instead of Monday. After the 
hurly-burly that naturally follows in the 
wake of a comfortable Sunday at home, 
when the house is disarranged, from top 
to bottom, you will find it infinitely sat- 
isfactory. Then be sure that you have 
on hand either the naphtha that comes 
at 10c. a bar, or that which sells as 
low as six for a quarter, which I have 
used with equal success. Now on Mon- 
day morning rub each piece thoroughly 
with soap and roll tight as for ironing. 
One tub will hold many of these rolls. 
Be sure to have enough water to cover 
them. \ You may have as many tubs as 
you hare kinds of clothes. On Tuesday 
take QUt enough rolls to fill a washing- 
machine. These must be unrolled, of 
coufse. Put through and drop into the 
rinse water — two if necessary. A slight 
rubbing after going through the machine 
will take out the dirty places, not wholly 
clean. You will be utterly surprised 
how the dirt just naturally falls out 
after the long soaking in cold water. 
After bluing and starching, the clothes 
are ready for the line. Here Apollo and 
the naphtha-man seem to be in cahoots, 
for the process, begun with the rubbing 
on of the soap, is here completed by a 
splendid bleaching, and clothes white 
enough to suit the most fastidious flap 
in the breezes. Even a somewhat dingy 
piece will, with the help of the soap, 



bleach white. Of course, occasionally 
tea towels and very soiled garments may _ 
be boiled, but, even at that, the hard M 
labor is mitigated. So I beg of you to 
lay aside your old-fashioned ideas for 
once and be convinced that hot water 
is not a necessary concomitant of a suc- 
cessful wash-day. o. 
* ♦ * 

Suggestions for an Apple 
Luncheon 

WHILE our delicious apples still re- 
main a delicacy, in contradistinc- 
tion to the household standby they form 
later in the season, the apple motive can 
be used as the basis of an entire menu, 
with piquant success. For instance, the 
entertainer who loves to seek out the un- 
usual even in her lesser affairs can ar- 
range an apple luncheon, in which the 
rosy cheeked fruit plays chief role. 

Whatever the hour decided upon, the 
invitations can be made extremely 
pretty. Prepare them in this way: 
Have heavy linen note sheets for them, 
and at the head of each sheet paint in 
water color a spray of leaves in Kate 
Greenaway style, with one rosy apple 
pendant therefrom. Below each apple 
bough could be a quotation about the 
fruit. It adds to the effect, if this quota- 
tion is written in red ink and fancy let- 
tering is employed. 

Lunch cloths with a design of apples 
are easily embroidered by the needle 
worker, or they can be obtained in the 
shops, and one of these, when prac- 
ticable, makes such a pretty touch in the 
decorations. For the centerpiece, have 
a charming old-fashioned epergne piled 
high with the fruit of the occasion, and 
some pretty foliage of the apple tree. It 
is effective to have apples of a different 
color on each tier, beginning with the 
tiny lady apples, alternating, if these arc 
obtainable at the time, on the top of the 
dish. Have strings of red and green 
apples, crossing each other, suspended 
above the table, and for place cards have 
rosy apples cut from art paper and col- 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



227 



ored; or apple bonbonnieres, filled with 
candies, can have conventional place 
cards of small size tied to their stems 
with ribbon. 

At an apple feast given in October 
(1911) the first course was a fruit salad 
served in porcelain apples, the red and 
green of which added a very charming 
note to the scheme. Where these are 
not available, the natural fruit can be 
cut in halves and used as cups. When 
the **lid" is added, the effect is that of a 
whole fruit on the plate. Let the prin- 
cipal course of the menu, which may be 
either chops, beefsteak or an omelet, 
come to the table decorated with bacon 
and fried apples. With any one of these 
French fried potatoes and hot biscuit or 
toast with butter would be appetizing. 
The salad might be a combination of 
pineapple, white grapes and bits of 
apple, served in apple baskets, or in 
green apple forms of crepe paper over 
cardboard. 

The dessert might appropriately be a 
French compote of apples, made by cook- 
ing the peeled fruit until transparent in 
a thick syrup flavored with ginger root. 
Serve cold with angel food or delicate 
sponge cake. Baked apples, decorated 
with whipped cream and candied ginger, 
or apple fritters, or dumplings could be 
substituted for the compote if desired. 

After luncheon have the company ad- 
journ to the porch or living room to 
enjoy an apple game. A silver dish is 
passed, heaped high with pasteboard 
apples. Each guest takes one and, on 
opening it, finds a little card and a 
sharpened pencil. On the former the 
following questions appear: 

What apple is found in the sea? 
(Crab.) 

Which is sharpest? (Thorn.) 

Which is a favorite for summer 
shoes? (Russet). 

Which is a great American river? (St. 
Lawrence.) 

Which is a natural beverage ? (Cider.) 

Which the friend of a biblical kind? 
(Jonathan.) 



Which makes a warm coat? (Ast-ra- 
khan.) 

Which gives an Arctic explorer? 
(Baldwin.) 

Which appears in the calendar? 
(May.) 

Which is found only in the winter? 
(Snow.) 

Give a piece of china, as a plate or 
pitcher, with apple design, as a prize for 
the best set of answers. s. j. h. 

* * * 

The Sunday Dinner 

IT was a family who believed in 
church going and Sunday School. 
The house mother did not think any 
one should be kept at home to cook the 
Sunday dinner, but it was, also, her 
opinion that the Sunday dinner ought to 
harmonize with the day, and be the best 
of the week. 

How did she manage it? It should 
be explained that no domestic was kept 
in this home. It was like the average 
American home, where there is quite 
sufftcient for good living, but where 
mother and daughter divide the work, 
with a woman to clean once or twice a 
week. 

In the proper season, roast turkey was 
always the prominent feature. The tur- 
key was properly washed on Saturday 
night, and the stufiBng prepared, though 
not put in. Potatoes could also be pared 
over night, and left to stand in cold 
water. On Sunday morning the turkey 
was stuffed, and put in the oven with a 
slow fire. There was time to baste it 
once or twice. Then the entire family 
went to church. Sunday School fol- 
lowed quickly on the morning service. 
The daughter was a teacher, the man of 
the house was the Superintendent. All 
were members of the School except the 
mother. She went home directly, put on 
the stove drafts, and soon had the tur- 
key sizzling, with frequent bastings, and 
all the better for the slow, initial baking. 
The potatoes were ready to cook ; it took 
but a few minutes to prepare another 



228 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



vegetable if desired. The cranberries 
had been stewed or jeUied on Saturday. 
The coffee was mixed in advance. 
Though the dessert was an important 
feature, there is Httle need to mention it. 
Everybody knows that mince pies, or 
fruit puddings, or jellies can be pre- 
pared days ahead of time. There was 
only the table to lay, and everything was 
ready to serve when the others returned 
from Sunday School. A delicious din- 
ner, and it did not seem to require any 
great exertion, either. h. a. h. 

The Visitor in the Kitchen 

HARDLY any housekeeper enjoys 
having a guest extend her visiting 
to the domain of the kitchen. On special 
occasions, when company meals are 
under way, the room is not likely to be 
in its normal condition, and the unusual 
disarray belies the ordinary habits of 
the home maker. Moreover, the hostess 
wishes to make the meals a surprise to 
her guests, and does not care to have 
the viands inspected in advance. The 
presence of a stranger, particularly one 
who is talkative, is apt to confuse and 
annoy one w^ho is trying to give her 
whole mind to preparing or clearing 
aw^ay a meal. Such tasks require the 
undivided attention. 

Obvious as these facts are, many 
guests seem to ignore them, even those 
who ought to know by experience that 
their presence in the kitchen is not over 
welcome. Sometimes, in the kindness of 
their hearts, they think they can be of 
help, when, to tell truth, their efforts 
hinder the work, instead of advancing it. 
Often they are frankly inquisitive, want- 
ing to know what kitchen conveniences 
■you have, and how you make this or that 
article. Now every housekeeper has her 
own little secrets, or her own little 
idiosyncrasies, and she is not always 



pleased to explain the minute details of 
her menage to another, possibly to 
another who has quite different ideas on 
various domestic subjects. On the 
whole, it is the part of true courtesy to 
accept the role of a guest in the most 
elegant interpretation, not to force one's . 
services on the hostess, and to regard 
the kitchen as a strictly private domain. 

Known by One's Recipes 

By nothing is a housekeeeper more 
distinctly known than by her cooking 
recipes. A collection from different 
sources is almost autobiographical. Be- 
tween the lines one may estimate the 
amount of income, the size of the fam- 
ily, the character of their entertaining,' 
and to some extent the mental calibre of 
the writer. One person may be habit- 
ually extravagant in the use of eggs and 
butter, another is conspicuously stingy. 
The housekeeper, cooking for a large 
family, gives directions on such an ample 
scale that the bride is appalled. Some 
cooks run to the elaborate and fussy, and 
others restrict themselves to the easiest 
and simplest dishes. Some evidently 
cater to delicate stomachs, and show in 
their selections that there are invalids 
and children at their table. Others seem 
to revel in delicious indigestibles. 

As to the form in which a recipe is 
given, the writer shows plainly whether 
she is systematic and methodical, or 
careless and haphazard. The order in 
which ingredients are put together, and 
a careful measurem.ent of the materials 
are indispensable features of a recipe. 
Nothing is so discouraging to a beginner 
as the vague reference to ''flour enough 
for a stiff dough," or "milk enough for 
a thin batter." The housekeeper whose 
pantry shelves are kept in good order is 
apt to write a neat and explicit recipe. 
The knack is worth acquiring. 

E. M. H. 




J 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating? 
to recipes, and those pertaining lo culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in whi"h the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose ad'^ressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit SI. 00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking School Magazine, 372 I3oylsfon St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1881. — "Recipe for French Crullers 
(very delicate). French lemon icing, made 
wiLh very little sugar." 

French Crullers 

Put one cup of boiling water, two 
level tablespoonfuls of sugar, a grating 
of orange rind and one-fourth a cup of 
butter over the fire; when boiling sift 
in one cup of sifted pastry flour and stir 
and cook to a smooth ball of paste ; turn 
into an earthen bowl, and beat in, one 
after another, three eggs. Beat the mix- 
ture smooth after each addition of an 
egg. Drop from a tablespoon, in as 
smooth shape as possible, into hot fat; 
turn often and let cook until well-puffed 
and brown. Drain on soft paper. 

Lemon Icing 

Into two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 
arid tvv'o of boiling v/ater beat sifted con- 
fectioner's sugar to make of a consis- 
tency to spread. This icing calls for 
considerable sugar and may not be the 
one desired. 



Query 1882. — "My sponge cake is very un- 
certain ; will you kindly publish a good recipe." 

Sponge Cake 

Grated rind and juice 

of i a lemon 
1 cup of flour 
1 5 whites of eggs 

Beat the yolks until light-colored and 
thick; gradually beat in the sugar, the 
lemon rind and juice. Beat the whites 
dry. Cut and fold half of the whites 



5 yolks of eggs 
1 cup of granulated 
sugar 



into the yolks and sugar; sift over the 
sifted flour, cut and fold into the mix- 
ture, then cut and fold in the rest of the 
whites ; turn into an unbuttered tube 
pan and bake from fifty to sixty min- 
utes in a moderate oven. Let cool in the 
inverted pan. In an up-to-date cook 
book a variety of sponge cake recipes 
may be found, also explicit directions for 
mixing with reason thereof. The above 
is a standard recipe. Note that the mix- 
ture is not stirred from start to finish. 



Recipe for Iced Orange 
Bouillon, served as a first course at luncheon." 

Iced Orange Bouillon 

Strain one pint of orange juice and the 
juice of one lemon through cheese cloth ; 
heat to the boiling point; stir in a level 
teaspoon ful of arrow-root sifted with 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar and let sim- 
mer ten minutes. Chill before serving. 



Query 1884. — "Recipe for Spanish Omelet." 

Spanish Omelet 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in 
it cook one tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
onion and a slice of red or green pepper, 
also fine chopped. Add one cup and a 
half of tomatoes and let simmer until the 
moisture has evaporated. Add a table- 
spoonful of sliced mushrooms (cooked), 
a tablespoonful of capers and one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper. 
This is to use as a filling and garnish for 
the omelet. Beat four eggs until a full 



230 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



spoonful can be taken up; add four 
tablespoonfuls of water, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of pepper and mix thoroughly. Melt a 
tablespoonful of butter in a hot omelet 
pan, turning the pan to spread the butter 
thoroughly over the surface ; pour in the 
egg mixture, and shake the pan, back and 
forth, that the mixture may slide on the 
pan, tipping it meanwhile to let the un- 
cooked Qgg down upon the bottom of the 
pan. When the egg is nearly "set" 
throughout, spread a little sauce over it, 
and roll and turn upon a hot serving 
dish ; pour the rest of the sauce around 
it and serve at once. 



Query 1885.— "Recipes for Almond Paste, 
Almond Macaroons, Hermits, Chocolate Spice 
Cake made with raisins, nuts and sour milk, 
Maple Sugar Cake strongly flavored with ma- 
ple and a creamy maple nut frosting. Also 
state the difference between 'Dot' chocolate 
and ordinary chocolate and where one can 
obtain the same." 

Almond Paste 

Almond paste may be bought, in pound 
tins, at a store where fancy groceries are 
kept. We do not think it could be made 
satisfactorily at home. A recipe for 
macaroons may be found among the 
seasonable recipes. 

Hermits 



i a cup of butter 




in bits 




§ a cup of sugar 


i 


a teaspoonful 


of 


1 GgS 




cinnamon 




2 tablespoonfuls of 


i 


a teaspoonful 


of 


milk 




cloves 




11 cups of flour 


i 


a teaspoonful 


of 


2 teaspoonfuls of 




mace 




baking powder 


i 


a teaspoonful 


of 


i a cup of raisins cut 




nutmeg 





Cream the butter; add the sugar, egg, 
beaten light, and the milk, sift together 
the flour, baking powder and spices and 
add to the first mixture ; add the raisins. 
More flour may be needed. Roll into a 
sheet, cut into rounds and bake in a 
moderate oven. 

Chocolate Spice Cake 

h a cup of butter raisins 

U cups of sugar i a cup of chopped 

i a cup of seeded nut meats 



3 squares of choc- 
olate, melted 
1 egg beaten light 
1 cup of sour milk 
i a teaspoonful of 
soda 



i a cup of pastry 

flour 
2 cups of entire wheat 

flour 
1^ teaspoonfuls of 

mixed spices 



Cream the butter; beat in one cup of 
the sugar and add the fruit and nuts and 
the chocolate. Beat the egg; add the 
rest of the sugar and beat into the first 
mixture ; add the sour milk and flour, 
sifted with the soda and spices, alter- 
nately. Bake in small tins or in a sheet. 
Granulated sugar may be sifted on the 
top of the mixture as it is put into the 
oven. 

Cake Mixture with Maple Sugar 

Substitute maple sugar for granulated 
sugar in some recipe that you have found 
reliable and see how it works. 

Maple Nut Frosting 

Melt half a pound of maple sugar in 
half a cup of boiling water, cover and 
let boil two or three minutes; remove 
the cover and let boil to 238° F. or to 
the soft ball stage. Pour in a fine stream 
on the white of one egg, beaten dry, beat- 
ing constantly meanwhile, then return the 
syrup with the egg to the saucepan, and 
stir and cook, on an asbestos mat or over 
boiling vvater, until the frosting thickens 
a little ; add half a cup of nuts broken 
in pieces and spread at once. When 
cooked just right the frosting will crust 
ever slightly on the outside. 

"Dot" and Ordinary Chocolate 

" Dot " chocolate is put up by the 
Walter Baker Co. It is used for dipping 
candies, nuts, small cakes or any article 
that would be improved by a coating of 
chocolate. In use absolutely nothing is 
added to it. Ordinary chocolate can not 
be used in the same way. 



Query 1886— '"'Recipe for Puffed Baked 
Potatoes, with Paprika." 

Puffed Baked Potatoes 
Scrub and v/ash potatoes of the same 
size and bake until done. Cut two sHts 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



231 



(to form a cross) in one of the flat sides 
of each potato, and empty the pulp from 
the skin. Pass this through a ricer and 
season as needed with salt, paprika and 
butter, using the paprika generously, half 
a teaspoonful to a pint. For about a pint 
of potato, beat the white of an egg, dry, 
and beat it lightly through the mixture. 
Put this mixture back into the skins, 
shaping it neatly, but letting it emerge 
slightly from the slits in the top. Return 
to the oven to become very hot and puffy. 



Query 1887.— "Recipe for Lady Baltimore 
Cake." 

Lady Baltimore Cake 



1 cup of butter 

2 cups of sugar 
3i CUDS of flour 

2l level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder 

1 cup of milk 

1 teaspoonful of rose 
water 



6 whites of eggs 

Frosting 

3 cups of sugar 

1 cup of boiling water 

3 whites of eggs 

1 cup of raisins 

1 cup of nut meats 

5 figs 

Mix in the usual manner. For the 
frosting, boil the sugar and water (as in 
making fondant) to 238^' F. and add to 
the whites, beaten dry ; add the fruit and 
nuts, chopped, and the figs, cut in bits. 
Flavor to taste. 



Query 1888. — "Recipe for Lady Fingers and 
Marguerites." 

Lady Fingers 



3 eggs 

i a cup and 

2 tablespoonfuls 



of 



powdered sugar 
i a cup of flour 
Grating of lemon rind 



Beat the yolks till light-colored and 
thick; gradually beat in the sugar and 
lemon rind. Beat the whites dry; cut 
and fold half of the whites into the yolks 
and sugar; fold in the flour, then the 
rest of the whites. Shape the mixture in 
a pan, lined with paper, in portions an 
inch wide and five inches long. Dredge 
with sugar and bake about twelve min- 
utes to a straw color. Shape quickly 
with teaspoon or pastry bag handling as 
little as possible. 

Marguerites 

Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup 
of water to 240 degrees Fahr. or until it 



will spin a thread two inches in length. 
Add five marshmallows, cut in small 
pieces, and let stand on the back of the 
range a moment, to melt the pieces of 
marshmallow. Pour in a fine stream on 
the whites of two eggs, beaten dry, beat- 
ing constantly meanwhile. Add two ta- 
blespoonfuls of cocoanut, one cup of 
chopped walnut meats and a teaspoonful 
of vanilla. Dispose on choice crackers 
and set in a moderate oven until the mix- 
ture is lightly colored. Serve in the place 
of cake or cookies. 



Query 1889. — "Why does sponge cake fall 
in the center? It rises well, and is perfectly 
baked without a doughy streak, but falls in 
the center just before it is tim.e to remove 
it from the oven. The cake is made with 
baking powder and water." 

Trouble with Sponge Cake 

There is such a thing as too light a 
cake. The eggs in the cake referred to 
may have been beaten too much, or 
folded in too carefully to admit the addi- 
tion of baking powder. A sponge cake 
in which the lightness depends entirely 
upon the air, beaten into the eggs, is put 
together and baked quite differently than 
where part of the lightness comes from 
baking powder or its equivalent. Try 
beating the eggs without separating the 
whites from the yolks, then gradually 
beat in the sugar, then the water and 
flour with the baking powder, alternately. 



Query 1890.— "Recipe for Plain Tomato 
Soup without stock or milk." 

Plain Tomato Soup 

Saute half an onion cut in thin slices, 
half a carrot and two branches of celery, 
cut fine, in two tablespoonfuls of butter 
or dripping until yellowed and softened ; 
add one can of tomatoes, two branches 
of parsley, part of a **spice bag" or a 
teaspoonful of savory herbs and one 
quart of water; let simmer twenty min- 
utes, then strain. Return to the fire with 
two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch or po- 
tato flour, smoothed in w^ater and stir 
until boiling. Let simmer ten minutes. 



232 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Season with salt and paprika. Green or 
red pepper pod, cut in shreds, may be 
added with the other vegetables. Celery 
leaves may replace the stalks. 



Query 1891. — "Recipes for Apple-Mint Jelly 
and Mint Jelly made with Gelatine." 

Apple ]Mint Jelly 

Cut the apples in quarters, removing 
imperfections. Barely cover with boiling 
water, put on a cover and let cook, un- 
disturbed, until soft throughout. Turn 
into a bag to drain. For a quart of this 
apple juice set three cups of sugar on 
shallow dishes in the oven to heat. Set 
the juice over the fire with the leaves 
from a bunch of mint; let cook twenty 
m.inutes, then strain into a clean sauce- 
pan. Heat to the boiling point, add the 
hot sugar and let boil till the syrup when 
tested jellies slightly on a cold dish. 
Tint with green color-paste very deli- 
cately. Have ready three to five jelly 
glasses on a cloth in a pan of boiling 
water. Let the glasses be filled with the 
water; pour out the water and turn in 
the jelly. When cooled a little remove 
to a board or table. 

Mint Jellv with Gelatine 



i a package of gela- 
tine 

i a cup of cold water 

1 Clip of granulated 
sugar 

1 cup of vinegar 



i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a teaspoonful of 

paprika 
5 a cup of mint leaves 
Green color paste 



Soften the gelatine in the cold water. 
Boil the sugar and vinegar five or six 
minutes, add the softened gelatine, the 
salt, paprika, mint leaves, chopped fine, 
and color paste to tint as desired. Stir 
in ice and water until the mixture begins 
to thicken (that the mint may not set- 
tle) ; turn into small moulds and set 
aside to become firm. When turned 
from the moulds, garnish with the tips 
from fresh stalks of mint. 



Query 1892. — "Recipe for old-fashioned 
'Sally Lunn,' made without yeast." 



Sally Lunn 



separating 
2 cups of flour 
1 teaspoonful of soda 



slightly rounding 
teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar 



Mix as any butter cake; when baked 
cut in squares and serve hot with butter 
for luncheon or tea. Less sugar may be 
use. 



Query 1893.— "Recipe for Dill Pickles." 

Dill Pickles 

Scrub the cucumbers and put them in 
an earthen dish in layers, sprinkling salt 
fietween the layers. Use a cup of salt 
to four quarts of cucumbers. Cover 
vrith cold water and let stand over night. 
Drain and put into glass jars with two 
or three branches of dill in each jar; 
put in also a green or red pepper, cut in 
halves. Fill the jar to overflow with 
vinegar, scalding hot. Seal and set aside 
in a cool place. 



i a cup of butter 
1 cup of sugar 



i a cup of milk 

2 eggs beaten without 



Query 1894. — "Recipe for Planked Steak." 

Planked Steak 

The steak should be cut about an inch 
and a quarter thick. Wipe carefully 
with a damp cloth. Have ready a hot 
broiler, well-oiled or rubbed over with 
a bit of fat. Cook the steak over the 
coals about eight minutes, turning four 
or five times. Set the steak on a hot 
plank. Pile hot mashed potato around 
the edge of the plank. Brush over the 
edges of the potato with the yolk of an 
egg, beaten and diluted with a little milk, 
and set the plank into a hot oven to 
brown and reheat the potato and finish 
cooking the steak. Remove from the 
oven. Fill the space between the steak 
and the potato with cooked peas, string 
beans and slices of carrot, seasoned with 
salt, pepper and butter. Set halves of 
cooked kohl-rabi, scooped out to make 
cups, filled with peas and carrot above 
the steak. Finish with four flowerets of 
cooked cauliflower, dipped in fritter- 
batter and fried. Serve mushroom 
sauce in a bowl. For the cauliflower see 
Cauliflower, Villeroi style, in the season- 
able recipes. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




CREST CHOCOLATES 



"7. 



fi 










The Best of Everything 

Artistically Combined 

Twenty countries contribute ^ ^ p. p. 
their choicest nuts and fruits to "^ I ' 
make Crest Chocolates worth 

One Dollar a Pound 




.% I 

-^^ 



-«&«iSP^^^ 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
233 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Query 1895.— "Recipe for Corn Relish." 

Corn Relish 

Cut the corn from two dozen ears; 
chop rather fine one head of cabbage, 
four large onions, four green peppers 
and one red pepper, first discarding the 
seeds of the peppers. Add one quart of 
vinegar and set to boil. Mix together 
three cups of sugar, three-fourths a cup 
of flour, half a cup of salt and one- 
fourth a cup of dry mustard; stir in 
one quart of vinegar, then stir through 
the hot vegetables. Let boil half an 
hour; add two teaspoonfuls of celery 
seed and store as canned fruit 



Query 1896.— "Is it possible to reserve a 
yolk of egg for filling or a white for frost- 
ing without otherwise changing a recipe for 
cake?" 

Changing Cake Recipes 

If you expect to have success with a 
cake recipe, follow the recipe. Use 
just as many yolks or whites of eggs 
as are specified in the recipe. Possibly 
some particular recipe might produce a 
good cake, if, where calling for three 
whites of eggs, you should reserve one 
of the whites for frosting and fill its 
place in the cake with one of the yolks, 
but the resultant cake would not be 
identical with cake made by the recipe. 



Query 1897.— "Can a recipe for Plain Cake 
be changed to a richer cake by adding simply 
more butter, sugar or eggs?" 

Plain and Rich Cake 

A beginner in cookery should not at- 
tempt to make over cake recipes. It is 
best to select a recipe that you know to 
be reliable and follow it. 



Query 1898.— "Can a good cake be made 
with three whites of egg without the yolks?" 

Cake with Three Whites of Egg 

i a cup of butter 

1 cup of sugar 
J a cup of milk 

2 cups of sifted flour 



3 level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder 
3 whites of egg 



beat in the sugar. Sift the flour and 
baking powder, return to the sieve and 
add to the first mixture, alternately, 
with the milk. Beat the whites dry and 
then beat into the cake mixture. Beat 
in thoroughly. Bake in layers, a single 
sheet, or a loaf. This recipe makes a 
delicate and good cake, suitable for any 
occasion. By using four whites a more 
delicate cake results. The cake can be 
made with two whites rnd one yolk, or, 
one whole tgg and the yolk of another. 
We have not tried it with three yolks. 
Think the cake thus made would turn 
out all right, if half to a whole tea- 
spoonful of baking powder were added 
to the quantity given in the recipe. 
Yolks of eggs do not give as much light- 
ness as the whites. 



Query 1899.— "What is a 'spring form' for 
baking cake and where can they be pur- 
chased?" 

"Spring Form" for Baking Cake 

We have never heard the term 
"spring form" given to a cake pan. 
Possibly it may be applied to a sponge 
cake pan made by the Lisk Co., of 
Rochester. In this pan the bottom is in 
one piece adjusted to the deep ring 
which forms the sides of the pan. The 
two pieces are held together by three 
narrow strips of metal (springs) which 
extend above the pan. When the cake 
is baked the pan is inverted and stands 
on these springs in such a manner that 
the cake is suspended from the bottom 
of the pan. Cooled in this manner the 
cake retains its lightness. The pans 
must be used unbuttered. 



Beat the butter to a cream ; gradually 



Query 1900. — "Recipe for a Lemon Pie 
firm enough to cut and clear." 

Lemon Pie 

Sift together several times one 
rounding tablespoonful of cornstarch 
and one cup of granulated sugar. Pour 
on one cup of boiling water and stir 
and cook until the whole is boiling. 
Add a teaspoonful of butter, one-fourth 



234 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"It's a Delicious 

Seasoning" 




When frying a chop or steak 
pour into the gravy just a 
little of this genuine Imported 
Worcestershire Sauce. 



Every bottle of this delicious Sauce is guaranteed imported under 
seal, thereby ensuring that delightful zest peculiar to English Sauces. 



XT 11 Worcesteilyhire C\ 

noibrooKts o 



aucc 



Imported Absol\itely 




jyfJJDE /A( A(EW E/s(GL/lJ\(D — BEST IA[ THE WOfiLD 



HUB 



NINE REASONS 

1 — 5 sides of oven are 
heated — (only four 
sides in other ranges) 
— 25% better. 

2 — Flue makes only 4 
turns — (other flues 
make 6 turns) — 33 Yi 
less friction. 

3 — Corrugated and arch- 
ed top oven plate — 
'' can't crack." 

7 — Roller bearing Coal 
Pan. 

8 — Roller bearing Ash 
Pan. 

9 — Direct Plunger Sim- 
plex Damper. 

Manufactured by 

SMITH 4 ANTHONY CO. '^To^rlT^fsl^''^ 

Sold by all leading dealers. Send for Qrcular 



s 

Have Heat on Five Sides 
of the Oven 

4 — ^2-piece bottom oven 
plate — "can't crack." 

5 — Clean out plate in 
front. 

6 — French top. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a teaspoonful of salt, the grated rind 
and juice of a large lemon, and one 
Ggg, beaten very light. Aiix thoroughly 
and bake with two crusts. 



Query 1901. — "Recipe for Pickling Limes." 

Pickled Limes 

Make a brine strong enough to float 
an Qgg and, in quantity, to cover a 
dozen limes. Let stand six days, stirr- 
ing the brine each day. Drain and set 
to boil in two quarts of boiling water. 
Let boil fifteen minutes. Let drain and 
become cold. Scald one quart of vine- 
gar, half an ounce of cloves, half an 
ounce of mace, half an ounce of ginger 
root, half an ounce of horse radish and 
one ounce of white mustard seed and 
pour over the limes disposed in fruit 
jars. Close securely. These are best 
after keeping some months. 



Cooking Recipes for the Bride 

A useful and appropriate gift for the 
engaged girl or bride is a collection of 
recipes from her experienced friends. 
Some particular chum may start it for 
her, or she may herself solicit contribu- 
tions. A box of cards, or a sheaf of 
loose leaves — to be bound together by 
metal rings — is the raw material. Dis- 
tribute the cards or sheets among house- 
keeping friends, with the request for 
some specially valued recipe, and the 
result will be a very interesting miscel- 
lany. The recipient will, of course, find 
much that she cannot use, and in course 
of time will weed out a certain propor- 
tion of the material. But in studying 
and trying the recommendations of 
others, a beginner will learn many use- 
ful lessons. e h m 



The Drink De Luxe 

Cawfee! It's the only stuff, pardner, 

I'm ready to bet my old pelt 
It's jest the one drink that kin give you 

The right feelin' under the belt. 
There's no other drink in creashun 

That kin limber uh feller up so; 
All others is secon'-class liquids — 

I've tried 'em an' I ought tub know. 

I fess up, I'm some fond uv w^hisky 

An' brandy, an' also uv beer; 
But I could live right on without 'em 

An' never shed nary uh tear. 
But cawfee — I got tuh have cawfee I 

Without it I never feel fed. 
If choosin' between bread an' cawfee, 

I'm guessin' I'd pass up the bread. 

It don't matter much where you mek it, 

Jest so it's reel hefty an' hot; — 
The fines' that 1 ever tasted 

Wuz never inside uv uh pot. 
Twuz cracked in uh dusty bandanna 

An' biled in uh open-top can, 
An' gulped down without milk er sugar — 

Whoops! That wuz the stuff fer uh man. 

I've made it by trails in the desert, 

I've made it when down tuh the sea, 
An' when larkin' up in the cities 

The swell chefs have made it fer me. 
An' I've found that swigs in the mornin' 

Uv cawfee biled jest as it should 
Be biled, will ease the grouch feelin' 

An' mek the world look purtty good. 

When spendin' I've drunk cawfee out uv 

Them one-swaller cups, an' when broke 
I've drunk it from battered tin-buckets, 

My eyes full uv camp-fire 'smoke. 
I've drunk it black down in the tropics 

To knock out the fever an' chill; 
I've drunk it brown in the North coun- 
tries — 

I'll drink it while livin', I will. 

You bet you, I'm always fer cawfee! 

I won't do without it uh day. 
Uv course, there is folks that don't take it, 

But many ain't built that-a-way. 
The docturs kin holler an' knock it — 

It's mostly them docturs in town — 
But note when it comes to theirselves, 
pard. 

There's few uv *em turnin' it down. 

James Ravenscroft. 



*Ts your Mississippi River very much 
larger than our Thames?" asked an 
English • lady of a Western visitor. 
*T.arger?" answered the Westerner. 
"Why, Ma'am, there ain't enough water 
in the whole of the Thames to make a 
gargle for the mouth of the Missis- 
sippi." — Exchange. 

23 



Tommy's Aunt: ''Won't you have an- 
other piece of cake. Tommy?" Tommy 
(on a visit) : "No, thank you." Tom- 
my's Aunt: "You seem to be suffering 
from loss of appetite." Tommy: "Thai 
ain't loss of appetite. What I'm suffer- 
ing from is politeness." 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Especially Good 
For Enamel and 
Porcelain Ware 

Many Uses 

and Full 
Directions 
on Large 
Sifter-Can 



M IS 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



New BooL 



The Lunch Room. By Paul Richards. 

Price, postpaid, $2.00. Chicago: 

The Hotel Monthly. 
The book is devoted to plans, equip- 
ment, the management, accounting, food 
and drink sales, bills of fare, receipts, 
etc. The economical operation and 
quick service of wholesome foods and 
drinks are fully described. It will suffice 
to say that the book contains a good deal 
of information in the line of catering. 
It is of especial value to caterers, man- 
agers of restaurants, lunch-rooms, and 
places where larger numbers are served 
meals of many and various kinds. 

Health and Happiness. By Eliza M. 

MosHER, M. D. 1.2 mo. Cloth. 

$1.00 net. New York: Funk and 

Wagnalls Co. 
This new book by Dr. Mosher consists 
of a dozen letters which deal in a funda- 
mental and very original way with hab- 
its of posture, good and bad, and their 
influence upon the body; with efficiency 
through an understanding of the needs 
of the body in relation to foods, and the 
removal of waste ; the care of the skin ; 
and the offices of clothing. 

The message is one strikingly original 
in its teaching regarding the importance 
of acquiring right habits of bodily pos- 
ture, and pointing out the sanest and 
simplest methods of doing so. The let- 
ters which make up the book are so 
tender and loving, no one can doubt that 
their author not only understands the 
nature of girls, but believes in them and 
expects them to become increasingly a 
power for good in the world. The story 
of motherhood is told in a very interest- 
ing manner, and valuable advice is given 
regarding the physical preparation for it, 
which the author believes should begin 
early in girlhood. 

"The home is the crystal of society — 
the nucleus of national character; and 
from that source, be it pure or tainted, 



issue the habits, principles, and maxims 
which govern public as well as private 
life. The nation comes from the 
nursery ; public opinion itself is, for the 
most part, the outgrowth of the home." 
This book is instructive, wholesome 
and highly commendable. It gives in- 
formation and practical advice that is 
in every wise worthy of observance and 
cultivation. Would that a message like 
this, to girls might be widespread in our 
homes. 



A story is told concerning a famous 
man of letters who visited Washington 
and appeared at a dinner party. He sat 
next to a young girl, who rattled away 
at the famous man. He wanted to talk 
to his hostess, but hadn't a chance. The 
girl said to him. "I'm awfully stuck on 
Shakespeare. Don't you think he's ter- 
ribly interesting?" Everybody listened 
to hear the great man's brilliant reply; 
for, as a Shakespearean scholar, he has 
few peers. "Yes," he said solemnly, "I 
do think he is interesting. I think he is 
more than that. I think Shakespeare is 
just simply too dear for anything!" 
— Philadelphia Call. 




To 
Destroy 
Cerma, 
Foul Ctuea 
and prevent stcknesM, 
the last thing at night 



pour into the wastepipes, 
closets, etc., a little 



Platte Chlorides . 

The Household Disinfectant 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
238 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Combination Coal and Gas 




A combination coal and gas range is the ideal range and an eco- 
nomic necessity in a well ordered kitchen. Gas is convenient in 
summer and for light work in winter as an auxiliary to a coal range — 
but where continuous fire is needed, as in winter for constant hot 
water supply and for keeping the kitchen warm, a coal range is 
necessary and also more healthful as it does not vitiate the air of a 
closed room as a gas range does. 

The Crawford combination ranges have gas 
ovens that are safe against explosions. The burn- 
ers are lighted in a new way ; there is no dangerous 
pilot light. This improvement is patented. 

The Gas Oven Damper is automatically opened by 
the opening of the oven door. 

There is an extra set of burners at the top of the Gas 
End Oven for broiling ; a great advantage. 

Gas and Coal Range can be used at same time. 

Double Oven above or 
Single Oven at the end. 

The Cratoford Coal 

range with Us Single 

Damper (patented), its 

wonderful Oven, its Jlsh Hod 

in the base with Coal Hod 




beside it, is a joy to cooks. 
Circulars Free. 

Walker & Pratt Mfg. Co., Boston 

SOLD BY LRTmiNG DE71LERS EVERYWHERE 




End Gas 
Oven 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
239 



THE BOSTOxN COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Ballade of the Household Page 

Grave critics ligh at what they see, 

And make their moan with deep regret, 
For lovely woman, doomed to be 

The pedant or the suffragette. 

On lofty art her mind is set. 
Or business cares her thoughts engage. 

These darkling fears we'd fain forget — 
Peruse, I pray, the Household Pa^e ! 

"How shall I give a Purple Tea?" 

"Wear bandeaux, with a pink aigrette" ; 

"Green stockings are the dernier cri" ; 
"Paquin confirms the touch of jet." 
"Would you advise chiffon or net?" 

"Discreet massage may hide your age." 
This point of view may still be met — 

Peruse, I pray, the Household Page I 

"Will crullers hurt a child of three?" 

"Your toque demands a tulle rosette." 
"Do, please, expain 'R. S. V. P.' " 

"Serve artichokes with omelet" ; 

"Smart blankets for the canine oet" ; 
"Crepe lingerie is now the rage." 

A slant like this you're sure to get — 
Peruse, I pray, the Household Page ! 

ENVOI 

Prince, let us then no longer fret, 
Lest woman grow too sternly sage ; 

Some frills and foibles linger yet — 
Peruse, I pray, the Household Page ! 

By Corinne Rockwell Swain, in The Century. 




RUBBER BUTTON 



Hose Supporter 



Will stand 
hard weaur 




IN STORES EVERYWHERE. 

Child's sample pair,postpaid, 
16 cents (give age). 

It gives satisfaction — doesn't tear the 
stockings — doesn't hamper the child 
— and w^ears longest. 
George Frost Co., Makers. Boston 

Al«o makers of the famous Boston Garter for men. 




Manners 

JUST as the western cowboy gallops 
out and lassos the wild steers, so at 
this time of year the reluctant parents 
have gone forth and corralled the chil- 
dren from field and shore and mountain 
side and brought them back to town and 
to school. 

There is always a taming process 
necessary in these first few trying days 
of civilization. The youngsters slide on 
the hardwood floors, dash in and out of 
rooms, rush hatless into the street and 
carry on table conversation in tones 
learned on the sailboat when one had to 
bellow above the gale. 

The majority of grown people are 
rather glad to return to orderly routine, 
and they slip into the conventionalities 
with a half -sigh of relief ; but the period 
of readjustment is longer for the chil- 
dren. Their manners have out-grown all 
bounds just as their feet have outgrown 
their shoes, and they rebel at the cramp- 
ing process demanded by a city apart- 
ment. 

Of course it has to be done. One 
cannot live cheek by jowl with half a 
dozen neighbors with the freedom which 
is suitable to a ten-acre farm or a half 
a mile of beach. 

In spite of the benefits of country liv- 
ing we must all confess that it is an 
insidious demoralizer of manners. We 
grow careless in the country ; we dress 
negligently ; we move noisily. With few 
or no servants we fall into the habit of 
reaching and jumping up at table; with 
picnicking and hammocks and piazza 
rails we grow accustomed to perching 
anywhere in any position. And all these 
things have to be taken in hand before 
we are fit for society again. 

There is an immense charm about fin- 
ished mannerliness. We all like to see 
people who move deftly, who speak cor- 
rectly and in well modulated voices, who 
exercise care and good taste in their per- 
sonal appearance. These may not be 
fundamental things, but they add to the 
grace of social intercourse. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

240 



ADVERTISEMENTS 








The Butter that Gives Appetite 
For Other Good Things 

THE goodness of Meadow- Go Id Butter is natural 
goodness. Nothing could be added to it to make 
it any better, Its fine flavor is pure butter flavor. It 
comes from rich cream, ripened to just the right point, 
churned in truly up-to-date creameries. The butter 
comes to you so wrapped and protected as to make 
contamination an impossibility. 

Dealers who want to handle a brand of butter 
that will make their trade grow will find Meadow- 
Gold the butter to tie to. Write for address 
of nearest distributing house. 

MAKERS AND DISTRIBUTORS 

East of the Mississippi River 
The Fox River Butter Company, Chicago, III. 

West of the Mississippi River 
Beatrice Creamery Company, Lincoln, Neb. 

Distributing branches in principal cities 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

241 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



The flavor of many fruit 
extracts such as Orange, Rose 
or Almond may be much im- 
proved by adding a small quan- 
tity of Vanilla. 

Always use 

Bumett*s 
Elxtracts 

Not only are they made from the 
choicest and purest ingredients, 
but they are also twice the 
strength of the standard set by 
the United States Department 
of Agriculture. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



Exquisite Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

Made With 

Junket Tablets 

Your grocer or druggist sells them 
or we mail postpaid ten tablets to 
make ten quarts for 10 cents and 
give you the charming brochure 
"Junket Dainties" free. 

CHR. HANSEN'S 
LABORATORY 



Box 2507. 



Little Falls, N. Y. 



And just at this time when we have all 
degenerated so much in regard to such 
matters is an excellent time to start a 
rigorous course in deportment. Now is 
the psychological time to impress upon 
the children the desirability of a pleasing 
bearing. 

Country ways are not city ways: sum- 
mer time behaviour differs from winter 
behaviour. Both are suitable in their 
proper places, but summer is over and 
rough looks and loud voices and sprawl- 
ing attitudes must be banished with the 
middy blouses and bathing suits. 

Make courtesy seem something attrac- 
tive, something as delightful to possess 
and to witness as the clear eyes and 
tanned cheeks left by the summer. — A. 
E. in The Herald. 



After you have exhausted what there 
is in business, politics, conviviality, love, 
and so on — have found that none of 
them finally satisfy, or permanently wear 
— what remains? Nature remains; to 
bring out from their torpid recesses, the 
affinities of a man or woman with the 
open air, the trees, fields, the changes of 
seasons — the sun by day and the stars of 
heaven by night. — Walt Whitman. 



To act in obedience to the hidden 
precepts of Nature — that is rest; and in 
this special case, since man is meant to be 
an intelligent creature, the more intelli- 
gent his acts are, the more he finds 
repose in them. When a child acts only 
in a disorderly, disconnected manner, his 
nervous force is under a great strain; 
while, on the other hand, his nervous 
energy is positively increased and mul- 
tiplied by intelligent actions. — Maria 
Montessori. 



The best way for a young man who is 
without friends or influence to begin is: 
first, to get a position; second, to keep 
his mouth shut; third, observe; fourth, 
be faithful; fifth, make his employer 
think he would be lost in a fog without 
him; sixth, be polite. — Russell Sage. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
242 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Trade fH) Mark 



offers an unlimited 
variety of splendid 
designs, in any one 
of which you may 
choose a complete set, 

thus giving' your table 
an air of distinction. 



353 
MA^'ONNAISE 



353 
GRAPE FRUIT 



341 
SHERBET 



LAS SWA 



It is the lowest priced 
glassware made: 
quality and dura- 
bility considered. 

It is for sale only by the 
best crockery and depart- 
ment stores. You will 
find our book helpful in 
making" selections. 
Send for it, 

A. H. Heisey (| Co, 



341 
ICE TUB AND PLATE 



Depi. 5(> 



Ne-iLark. Ohio 



24 

SALT ANt> PEPPER 






Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
243 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



This 

happens 

everywhere 

every 

day 




CHARLES B.KNOX CO. 

40MKSTWN KV.O.S.A 



PURE SPARKLING 






GELATINE 



" I forget the name, 
but Mother said it 
was pure gelatine" 

"Then, littlegirl, she must wantKnox 
Pure Plain Sparkling Gelatine — but 
does your mother know about the Knox 
Pure Sparkling Acidulated Gelatine, 
that is also in great demand ? It is the 
package with the separate envelope of 
pure lemon fruit juice and saves the 
cost, time and bother of squeezing 
lemons. 

"This allows your mother the choice 
of using lemon jelly plain, or if she 
wishes it colored she can use the tablet 
of pink coloring that is enclosed in a 
separate envelope, or she can add any frei'h 
fruit— which is always best— using the juices 
for coloring- 

" With the Knox Acidulated as well as the 
Knox Plain Gelatine she can make desserts 
salads, candies, ice cream and ices, and im- 
prove o'. her dishes. 

"Novi'.take this Knox Acidulated package 
ho me and I know your mot er will be more 
than pleased— the price is just the same as the 
Knox Plain Gelatine, and each package makes 
two quarts — one-half gallon of jelly." 
Knox Recipe Book FREE 

Contains over loo recipes for Desserts, Salads, 
Candies, Jellies, Pu<-"dings, Ice Creams, Sherbets, 
etc., Sent FREE for your grocer's name 

Pint sample of Acidulate d Gelatine 

for 2c stamp and grocer' s nafne. 

CHARLES B.KNOX CO. 

7 Knox Avenue Johnstown, N. Y 



The Object of Education 

There was an idea in the olden time — 
and it is not yet dead — that whoever 
was educated ought not to work — that 
he should use his head and not his 
hands. Graduates of colleges were 
ashamed to be found engaged in manual 
labor, in plowing fields, in sowing or 
gathering grain. To this manly kind of 
independence they preferred the garret 
and the precarious existence of an un- 
appreciated poet, borrowing their money 
from their friends, and their ideas from 
the dead. The educated regarded the 
useful as degrading — they were willing 
to stain their souls to keep their hands 
white. 

The object of all education should be 
to increase the usefulness of man — use- 
fulness to himself and others. Every 
human being should be taught that his 
first duty is to take care of himself, and 
that to be self-respecting he must be 
self-supporting. To live on the labor of 
others, either by the force which en- 
slaves, or by the cunning which robs, or 
by borrowing or begging, is wholly dis- 
honorable. Every man should be talight 
some useful art. His hands should be 
educated as well as his head. He should 
be taught to deal with things as they are 
— with life as it is. This would give a 
feeling of independence, which is the 
firmest foundation of honor or character. 
Every man knowing that he is useful 
admires himself. — Robert G. Ingersoll. 



The Man Who is Wanted 

The man who is most to be wanted for 
positions of trust is the one who does not 
work for mere selfish gain, but for the 
love of the task. If he does his work 
for love of it, and not out of considera- 
tion alone for the result, he will serve 
his own interests best, for he will do 
his work well and thereby make himself 
indispensable to his employer, and when 
the time comes to choose a man for a 
higher position, the choice will likely fall 
upon him who has done his work well. 

I have sometimes found it difficult to 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

244 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



(9^ 



(( 



There are Wonderful Cooking Possibilities in My 

. Alcohol Gas Stove 
Chafing Dish'^'^ 



(With "Alcolite" Burner) 



IVIanning 
Bo-v^man 

A Manning-Bowman Alcolite Burner Chafing Dish is 
available tor all plain and fancy cookery, from the 
simple frying of a chop to the delicate preparation of 
"crabs a la Creole" or "salmi of woodcock." 
The Alcolite Burner gives intense heat and is odorless 
and sootless. It works successfully under any ordi- 
nary kitchen cooking utensil. Very convenient for use 
in connection with an M & B Coffee Perco- ^^ 
lator. Can be purchased separate from the &r^ . 
Chafing Dish if desired. Manning-Bowman 
Chafing Dishes are made in a wide variety of 
styles. The one shown here is No. 348 | 92. 
AH best dealers carry Manning-Bowman products. 
Write for a free recipe book and Cata- 
logue No. K-19 

MANNING, BOWMAN & COMPANY 
Meriden, Conn. 

Also makers of Manning-Bowman Pot and Um Coffee Percolators, 
Eclipse Bread Makers, Alcohol Gas Stoves, Tea Ball Tea Pots and 
Urns, Chafing Dish Accessories, The Celebrated M & B Brass, Copper 
and Nickel Polish. Also Electric Percolators and Chafing Dishes. 




The Chafing DUh 
ve s/iiiir here i, 
No. 3X3 I n. 




Makes 

Cooking 

Easy. 




Coal, Wood and Gas Rang'e. 

This Range is also made with Elevated gas oven, or if gas \% 
not desired, with Reservoir on right end. It can be furnish- 
ed with fire-box at either right or left of oven as ordered. 



Your Wife 
Wants 

a Plain Cabinet Glenwood, it is so Smooth and Easy 
to Clean. No filigree or fussy ornamentation, just 
the natural black iron finish— "The Mission Style" 
applied to a range. A room saver too— like the upright 
piano, livery essential refined and improved upon. 

The Broad, Square Oven 

with perfectly straight sides is very roomy. The 
Glenwood oven heat indicator, Improved baking damp- 
er, Sectional top, Revolving grate and Roller bearing 
ash-pan are each worthy of special mention. 



The Glenwood Gas Range 

attachment, consisting of Oven, Broiler and Four 
burner top, is made to bolt neatly to the end of the Plain Cabinet Glenwood coal range. It 
matters not whether your kitchen is large '^r small— there's a Plain Glenwood made to fit it. 

Glenwood Ranges 

Write for free booklet 49 of the Plain Cabinet Glenwood Range to ^"^ 
Weir Stove Company, Taunton, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not acc«pt substitutes 
245 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE IDEAL 




,3^^^i!^^'i « TABLE SERVANT 



r'rrMii""iiiiinm .i 



We will send you a 



J^f^. 



WITH FRENCH PLATE GLASS TOP 

ON TEN DAYS' FREE TRIAL 

You can then appreciate the enthusiastic endorse- 
ment of the prominent people whose letters we print 
below. 

N. J. Fed. Women's Club. 
Dear Sire: The SERVETTE has been received in good 
order, and is useful and is very good looking. Dining at the 
PattiBon table now is simnlicity itself. Mary Pattison, Sec. 
School of Cookery, W. Philadelphia, Pa. 
Dear Sirs: You will be pleased to hear that w e are delighted I 
with the SERVETTE. Marion H. Neil. 

Port Chester, N.Y. 
Dear Sirs: Enclosed find check for SERVETTE which I | 
find sp endid. Madam Alla Nazimova. 

McGKAW MFG. CO. Atlantic City, N. J. 

SERVETTE is a success. Will keep it. Enclosed please | 
find check. Merrily yours, Marshall P. Wilder. 

jHly 18, 1912. 
Dear Sirs: The glass top came today. It is a thing of beauty. 
My table is Oak 54 in with glass top and Servctte in glass makes | 
it complete. 1 wish you had a picture of the table. It is beauti- 
ful. Mara L. Wingate. 

Tampa, Fla. 
Gentlemen: "SERVETTE" arrived last ni-ht. It was a I 
case of love at first sight. She was assigned to her duties and | 
has been performing her functions in a most gracious manner, 
and rather than be separated from her a minute I enclose my | 
check to iusure her presence with me. E. Cunningham. 

Astoria. L.I.. N.Y. 
Dear Sirs: We are just delighted with SERVETTE and I 
everybody who sees it, admires it and says that 't is the best and 
most useful article which possibly can be imagined for the 
dining room. It is indeed ornamental and really a necessity. 

T. Tewes. 

You will be just as enthusiastic as any of 

the happy people who have discovered the 

many marvelous advantages of the new^ j 

*' eveready " table servant. 

Revolves and passes everything used on Ihe table. 
Does away with the waitress problem, as it is always I 
present and ready to work. Can also be used on the \ 
porch at afternoon teas, receptions, and on the side 
table atcards. Heavy, 5-16 i n , transparent French 
plate glass top, heavy nickel plated base. Cannot 
upset and is easily taken from the table. Makes a 
different, attractive and useful wedding, Christmas, 
Anniversary or Birthday present. 

The regular price of Servette is S15.00. To 
all sending $10.00 we ^vill ship Servette pre- I 
paid on ten days' free trial in accordance "with 
our guarantee. This offer is limited, 

GUARANTEE:— Try it ten days— If not satisfied\ 
return at ou*- expense and we will refund your money. 
When ordering state size of your dining table. 

McGRAW MFG- CO., 50 East St., McGraw, N. Y. 

Endorsed by Good Housekeeping Institute Serial No. 469 



find the right men for the Government 
service. There are plenty of men to fill 
every job, but few who want the job for 
its own sake. This applies equally in 
business. There are too many who seek 
work for the salary alone. As a result, 
sometimes, if they are well paid, they 
will commit acts for which they would 
not otherwise be responsible. 

The new order that is coming to the 
fore in the business world does not seek 
this kind of man. It is looking for the 
man who will work for the satisfaction 
of work well done — for the joy of 
achievement. For him there are large 
opportunities. — President Taft. 



The pine kernel plays quite an impor- 
tant part in the dietary of the vegetarian. 
But so far as we know, the modern vege- 
tarian has not even suspected the nutri- 
tive properties of the bark of the pine 
tree. A learned antiquary has just dis- 
covered some loaves, made 900 years 
ago, which microscopic and chemical ex- 
amination has shown are made of a meal 
composed of pine bark and pea-meal. 
He discovered them at Ljunga, in East 
Gothland, and is of opinion that they 
belong to the Viking age. And every- 
body knows that the Viking was a man 
of very mighty muscle. — Evening News. 



An anecdote about Dr. Randall 
Davidson, Bishop of Winchester, is 
that after an ecclesiastical function, as 
the clergy were trooping into luncheon, 
an unctuous archdeacon observed, 'This 
is the time to put a bridle on our appe- 
tites !" ''Yes," replied the bishop, "this 
is the time to put a bit in our mouths !" 
— Christian Life. 



We regularly appropriate three million 
dollars to promote the well-being of 
domestic animals. We have this year set 
aside the sum of thirty thousand dollars 
for the establishment of a Children's 
Bureau devoted to the welfare of chil- 
dren. The question naturally suggests 
itself — but what's the use, anyway ! 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




HE HOUSE COFFEE 



IS ON YOU R LINE 



flEFRCSCNT.^ 



I5s(_ 
liaiisi'ig 



Call up your grocer, on the phone. When he answers " Hello! " tell him 
to send up a can of " White House " Coffee — that nothing else will do. 

IT SUITS WHEN OTHERS DISAPPOINT 

No grocer should deny you, for the wire connections with 
our factory — through our various distributors in 
the principal parts of the United States— make it 
possible for any dealer, no matter when or where, to 
obtain a supply of this superb coffee without delay. 
Packed only in 1, 2, and 3Ib. sealed all-tin cans 



5^0C£Rr3TC 






FOR TEACHERS OF COOKING 

"Just Published 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline. Mass. 

Clotk 272 Pages, Illustrated, $1.00 net Postage, 8 cents 

PART of this book appeared serially in this magazine and met with such favor as to warrant 
its publication in book form. The chapters that were in the magazine have been rewritten 
and enlarged, and about as many more entirely new chapters (37 chapters in all) added, 
together with some dozen or more illustrations. 

The book is for the use of the teacher also for the use of pupils, as a text book. 
We do not see how any teacher of cooking can afford to be without this book. 

SEND FOR A COPY 



THE BOSTON COOKING -SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO, 

BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
247 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




The Secret of a Good 
Cup of Tea 

The Anti' 
tannic Tec 
Infuser. Ap 

proved by thous- 
ands who have 
used them. They 
fit any size cup 
and can be sent 
by mail anywhere. 
Price 40 cents. If by mail 50 cents each. 

Cooking Wares. Fireproof Porcelain, Paris 
Cafe Entree Dishes for Shirred Eggs, Omelets, 
Welsh Rarebits, Terrapin, Ramikens, etc. 

Housekeeping Outfits in Crockery, 
China, Glass and Lamps, in sets or p^rts of sets, 
from the in expensive to the costly service. 

JONES, M'DUFFEE&STRATTON CO, 

Crockery, China and Glass Merchants 

TEN FLOORS 

33 Franklin, cor. Hawley Street 

Near Washington and Summer Streets 

Boston, Mass. 



BIG MONEY IN SONGS 

YA/I7' "PAY 50 per cent if successful. Send us your 
» » I-J STA M. Poems. Sonss, ^T melodies today. Yoti 
inai/ he able to write a, biff seller. 11. KirkuB 
Diij;Jale Co.,Dept. 225, WashinL'ton, D. C. 





These trad^ark q 

sreHa 
foodkJ; 

Unlike sthi^^s 
f ARWEU. A RHif 


isscrosi liDM on evpry package 
. >nVur fa^ases ot 

W iNKiVER TROUBLES 

iQuIr^rit^r strict diet 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Kome-Stvicly Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home 
makers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100 page handbook. 
t'RMM. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles." 48 pages, 10 cents. " Food Values : Practical 
Methods in Dietetics," 32 pp. ill., 10 cents. 

Ameriean School oi Home Economics, 503 W. E9th St. Chicafo, III. 



Buckwheat Cakes 



1 cake of Fleisch- 
mann's Yeast 

4 cups of lukewarm 
v^ater 

1 cup of milk, scalded 
and cooled 



2 tablespoonfuls of 

light brown sugar 

2 cups of buckwheat 

flour 
1 cup of sifted white 

flour 
li teaspoonfuls salt 
Dissolve yeast and sugar in lukewarm 
liquid, add buckwheat and white flour 
gradually, and salt. Beat until smooth. 
Cover and set aside in warm place, free 
from draft, to rise — about one hour. 
When light, stir well and bake on hot 
griddle. 

If wanted for over night, use one- 
four cake of yeast and an extra half 
teaspoonful of salt. Cover and keep in 
a cool place. 



One day in a class in Old Testament 
history a Hampton boy announced that 
Adam was more to blame than Eve, and, 
when the surprised teacher asked him 
why he thought so, explained, "The ser- 
pent had to talk to Eve a long time, but 
Adam he eat it right up." 



Mark Twain used to tell that he was 
once taxed in England. He wrote 
Queen Victoria a friendly letter of pro- 
test. He said: 'T don't know you, but 
I met your son. He was at the head of 
a procession in the Strand, and I was 
on a 'bus." Years afterward he met 
the Prince of Wales at Hamburg. They 
had a long walk together. When bid- 
ding good-bye, the prince said: 'T am 
glad to have met you again." Mark 
Twain feared he had been mistaken for 
some one else, but the prince said, 
"Why, don't you remember when you 
met me in the Strand, and I was at the 
head of a procession and you were on 
a 'bus?" — North-zvcstern Christian Ad- 
vocate. 




jfHE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 



Eminent Teachers of Cookeiy. 
CLINTON AVE, WEST HOBOKEN. N a 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
248 



ADVERTISEMEXTS 



The best treat for children 

=^r^Welchs 




^ 




The National Drink 

Grape Juice 

Pure and Unfermented 



it is fruit-nutrition 
in fluid form -just 
the pure juice of 
selected October 
Concords, bottled. 




OpNipv us two NEW yearly Subscriptions at $1.0( 
►^l--'-'- ^ -L/ new your own subscription one year free, 



.00 each and we will re- 
as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston. Massachusetts 




MRS. HILL'S NEW BOOK 

COOKING FOR TWO 



Over 406 pages ; over 100 illustrations. 



Price $1.50 net. postage 16c 



COOKING FOR TWO is designed to give in sample and concise 
style, those things that are essential to the proper selection and 
preparation of a reasonable variety of food for a family of two 
individuals. At the same time by simply doubling the quantity of eat h 
ingredient given in a recipe, the dish prepared will serve four or more 

people. , , , 

The food products considered in the recipes are such as the house- 
keeper of average means would use on every day occasions, with a gen- 
erous sprinkling of choice articles for Sunday, or when a friend or two 
have been invited to dinner, luncheon or high tea. Menus for a week 
or two in each month are given. 
There is much in the book that is interesting, even indispensable, to young housekeepers, or 
those with little experience in cooking, while every housekeeper will find it contains much that is 
new and helpful. . _, 

An ideal gift to a young housekeeper. The recipes are 
practical, are designed, and really are, "For Two." 

We will send "Cooking for Two," postpaid on receipt of price ; or to a present 
subscriber as a premium for sendmg us three (3) 7tew yearly subscriptions at ^l.OU 
each. 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.j Boston, Massachusetts 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

249 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



i 




AM jy -C XD /^ _ C -^ THE EMPIRE GRAPE FRUIT 

New Knife For Grape Fruit— and orange knife 

The blade of this knife is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered, curved just to the 
right angle and ground to a very keen edge, will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly around 
the edge and divide the fruit into segments ready for eating. 

The feature of the blade is the round end which prevents cutting through the outer skin. A grape fruit knife 
is a necessity as grape fruit are growing so rapidly in popularity as a breakfast fruit. 



For Sale by all dealers. Price 50 cents each. Ifnof found at your dealers, upon 
receipt of price a knife will be sent to any address postpaid by the Manufacturer. 



THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. 



Winsted, Conn. 



How to Save Xmas 

IV/fi^tlAirt Write for our fine, 

*'*^**^J^ • photo -illustrated. 56- 
page catalog- and get it free; 
also free, charming booklet, 
• ' Story of Red Cedar. ' ' Factory 
prices to you on all styles of Red 
Cedar Chests; 15 days' free trial; 
freight prepaid. Get this book 
now. FREE! 

Moth Proof Cedar 

rVl**** « ^^ *S DAYS' FREE 
^^neSlS TRIAL! Every wom- 
an wants one! Most pleasing gift 
for Christinas and for birthday and 
wedding presents. Make your g-ift 
money go further. Many varieties of 
design, wide range of prices. Now is 
the time to select Christmas Gifts: 
don't wait! Piedmont Southern Red Cedar Chests make biggest value and 
most beautiful gifts for the money. Enrich any home. Save lurs and woolens 
from moths, mice, dust and damp Send for all particulars of our great free 
trial offer. Your name and address brings all. postpaid, free. Write today. 

Piedmont Red Cedar Chest Co. Dept. 27 Statesville, N. C. 




Lessons in CooKing 



•THROUGH' 



PREPARATION OF MBIALS 

Beginners easily become experts, experts get latest 
methods and ideas in our new home-study Course. 266 
graded lessons, illustrated. i2 Parts, each containing a 
week's menu, suitable for one month in the year, with 
detailed recipes and full directions for preparing and 
serving each meal as a whole. 

Food Economy. Nutritive Value. Balance Diet 

Menus for All Occasions, Helpful Suii|{eations, 

Special Articles, Etc. 

T*r> J^J^ The Course bound in green waterproof 
leatherette, gold stamping, marbeled edges, 
Till Oct. 31 500 pp.. half-tone plates— the Kitchen 
Companion DeLuxe. Sent postpaid 
on enrollment. Tuition for the correspondence instruc- 
tion. 12 Parts in pamphlets, etc.. is 50c a month until 
$8 50 is paid (or) $1.00 a month till |8,00 is paid (or) $7.50 
cash. 

Price for book alone, $2.00 cash (or) 50c a month till 
$2.50 is paid. Sent postpaid on approval on receipt of 
price or 1st payment of 50c in stamps. Money refunded 
if not satisfactory. Sample pages free. 

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS. 

503 W. 69<h St., Chlcado ■ 




MAGIC COVER 



idagic Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin ; chemicaiiy 
treated and hygienic: recommended by leading teachers of 
eooking. By mail. 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

Fermerty of F. A. WALKER & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store in New England 
410 Bovlston St.. Boston, Mass. 



WANTED 

Boston Cooking School 

Magazines 

Vol. XII Number? 

February 1908 

We will pay 20c 
each for Maga- 
zines of above date 
sent to us in good 
condition 

The Boston Cooking 
School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



wmm 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 

250 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Dutch Apple Cake 

One traveling in Europe sees much of the 
Dutch Apple Cake. It is fruity, easily di- 
ge^ed, and altogether a wholesome dish. 
The cru^ is important. To get it crisp, 
creamy, and fine flavor, use 





BORDEN'S EAGLE BRAND 
CONDENSED MILK 



RECIPE — ^rix together two cupfuls sifted flour, half a teaspoonful 
salt, one generous teaspoonful baking powder; rub into thi.s one 
heaping tablespoonful butter. Beat one egg, add to it four table- 
spoonfuls Eagle Brand Condensed Milk diluted with three-fourths 
cup water, and stir this into the dry mixture. Beat well and spread 
the dough half an inch thick in a shallow baking pan. Pare six 
apples, cut into eighths, lay them sharp edges down, in parallel 
rows on top of the dough, pressing them in slightly. Sprinkle one- 
third of a cup of sugar over the apples, and bake in a hot oven 
about half an hour. 

Write for Borden's Recipe Book. 

BORDEN'S CONDENSED MILK CO. 

** Leaders of Quality" 

Est. 1857 New York 



I 



*lt\\fL»L 



'1 




Standard 

ROTARY 

Central Needle 
Sit Straight 
Sewing Machine 

^ It is the greatest invention that has 
taken place in Sewing Machines with- 
in the last quarter of a century. 
^ It has been adopted by the public 
schools throughout the country, be- 
cause of its health preserving features. 
fl It is two machines in one, for it 
sews both lock and chain stitch. 



F. C. HENDERSON CO., Boston, Mass. 
Factory Sellin|{ Agents 

Write our nearest af/ency for booklet and easy terms 



Shepherd, Norwell Co., Boston John "Wanamaker, New York 

Sibley, Lindsev & Curr, Rochester John Wanamaker, Phila. 

Joseph Home Co. , Pittsburg Th<-. May Co., Cleveland 

L. 8. AyresiCo., Indianapolis Dey Bros. Co., Syracuse 

Stix, Baer & Fuller, St. Louis S. Kann Son8& Co., Washinaton 
J. L. Hudson Co., Detroit John A. Roberts & Co,, Utica, N.Y. 
Forbes & Wallace, Sprinsfield E. S. Brown Co., Fall River 

Lion Dry Goods Co.. To.edo Erie Drv Goods Co., Erie 

The Shepherd Co .Providence, R. I. A. B. &W., Salem, Mass. 
Burrows & Sanborn, Lynn Hochschild, Kohn & Co. Baltimore 
Denholm & Mckay Co., Worcester W. M. Whitney & Co, Albany 
J. N. Adam & Co., Buffalo Boggs & Buhl. Alleghany 

Stewart Drv Goods Co.. Louisville The Rike-Kumler Co., Davton 
L. Bamberger & Co., Newark Marshall Field & Co., Chicago 




BEAUTIFUL DINING ROOMS 

CLEAN SANITARY KITCHENS 

SPOTLESS WALLS AND 

GENERAL ATTRACTIVENESS RESULTS WHEN 

PLASTERGON WALL BOARD 

Is used in Buildinfi or RemodeliniS 

Plastenron is vermin proof as well as fireand sound retarding. 

Where this woiidertul wall board (tlie only successful subbtl- 
tute for lath and platter) is used, the rooms are Cooler in sum- 
mer and Warmer in winter. This is proved by actual test. 
Tlie result is smalU-r coal bills during the Winter month* and 
cooler rooms in Sunimer. 

Anyone can put Piastergon on. It may be applied to the stud- 
ding or nailed on over the lath and plaster of old rooms. 

The panel designs that may be obtained by using Plaetergon 
are many and beautiful. 

IN A WORD 

Plastergon as an interior finish for homes, offices, factories, 
summer cottaires or public buildingB of any kind, has never been 
Kiualled tor beautv. economy and efficiency. 

Plastergon is manufactured in Tonawanda, New York, by the 
Plastergon Wall Board Company. 

'• The Service Department " w illfumish you, free of charge, 
compleie design and estimate for > our building or remodelling. 

Distributed throughout the New England States by J. A. & W. 
Bird & Co., 88 Pearl St., Boston. Mass. ,„,- 

Write to-day and ask them for sample and full information, 
or if not in that territory, send direct to manufacturers. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 



!51 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 







^^^^SP^^f^?^ 










GENUINE FRENCH SARDINES 
in PURE OLIVE OIL 

No healthier food obtainable 
Ask for the 

FRENCH SANITARY TIN 

Finest Quality 
Low Priced 

Hygienic, Practical Package 

For sale in Boston by 
Fir«t Class Grocers and Delicatessen Dealers 

MEYER & LANGE, New York 

Sole Agents 



DR. WILEY ON BREAD 
" Measured by actual nutritive power, 
there is no other complete ration which in 
economy can compare with bread.** 

EAT BREAD MADE WITH 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Write for Recipe Book— FREE 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



JVe have an Attractive 
Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

THE BOSTON 

COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

Write us if you wish to canvass your 
town or if you wish to secure only a few 
names among your friends and acquaint- 
ances. Start the work at once and you 
will be surprised how easily you can earn 
ten, twenty or fifty dollars. 

Address 

SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 
Boston Cooking-School 

Magazine Co. 
BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



ElilSL) us two NEW yearly 
Subscriptions at $ LOO each and 
We will renew your own sub- 
scription one year free, as pre- 
: 



miumo 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



MILCONEY 

MILK AND HONEY 
=^ MALTED •— 



The most delicious and invigorating Food-Beverage. In- 
stantly prepared for visitors or for lunch. At your Drug- 
gists or a trial jar sent you securely packed on receipt of 
60 cents in stamps. 

J. W. BARWELL FOOD PRODUCTS FACTORY 

WAUKEGAN. ILL. 



Buy adY«rtiscd i^oods — do not accent substitutes 

252 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



For The Unexpected Guest 



M? MENAMINS 
Serve DEVILED CRABS 



Always fresh, sweet, delicate in flavor. 
Ready for use. No picking or cookini^;. 
Appetizing and delicious. 30 reci[)e.-. 
McMenamin's Deviled Crabs have a savory tang of the ocean 
unequaled in any other sea food. 

They come to you direct from historic Hampton Roads in hermetically 
sealed, double coated cans. The original delicate sea flavor retainc '. 
without bleaching or chemicals of any kind— just fresh, pure, 

Pearly Gray Crab Meat 

McMenamin's Deviled Crabs ser\-ed in the natural shells (FUR- 
MSHED FREE BY GROCERS 'u.'ilh each can of McMenamin's) a 
dish that will tempt the most fickle appetite. 

McMenainin's Deviled Crabs are sold bv leading Krocers everywhere. Two size's. No. 1 ,ind No 2. 

bounced the "CRAH HOOK." Contains man^• recipes for ine-xp'-nsive, daint.- and tiothsome 
dishes, such as crrih stews, crab fries, craii bakes, crab s.tI lis. etc. Se:id postal to-dav f>r vntir free copy. 

McMENAMIN & CO.. Inc. 

■^ Igg Victoria Ave. (Established 1878^ Hampton 





PREMIUMS FOR SEVEN SUBSCRIPTIONS 

r^llf* C^^^^Y ^ '^° *^y present subscriber who sends us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $ 1 .00 each, ». 
V V/ii CI_; ^.jj ^^^j ^.^j^^^ ^y^^ CHAFER or the CASSEROLE (both for 14 subscriptions) d. 

scribed below os, a premium for securing and sending us 
the subscriptions. Elxpress charges to be paid by the 
receiver. 



Gvery One "WKo Has IVeceived One 

of tKese CKaiin^ DisKes Has 

Been Delighted WitK It 

ind surprised how easily the necessary subscriptions 
Tere secured. Have yon obtained one yet? If not, 
■;tart today to get the subscriptions, and within three or 
our days you will be enjoying the dish. 
The Chafer is a full-size, three pint, nickel dish, with 
111 the latest improvements, including handles on the hot 
water pan. It is the dish that sells for $5.00. 





Address 



Long slow cooking, at a gentle heat, 
best conserves the nutritive elements 
of food and the flavors that render i* 
most agreeable. The earthen Casserole 
makes this method possible. Then, 
too, the Casserole is the serving as 
well as the cooking dish. The house 
keeper who is desirious of setting a 
pleasing table without an undue ex* 
penditure of time or money will find 
a Casserole almost indispensable. 

The Casseroles We Offer 

are made by one of the leading man- 
ufacturers of the country for their 
regular trade. The dish is a three- 
pint one, round, eight inches in dia- 
meter, fitted with two covers, (an 
earthenware cover for the oven and a 
nickel plated one for the table) and 
a nickel plated fiame. It is such an 
outfit as retails for five or six dollars. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
253 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




rOTTlWG 

oui-^la-testrpattGnx is one. 
1 xCxso fi i c fx ^h Q.\SJri a lie s ^ 
dotait^ fiay.s bcciT^ care- 
f Li fi)' - , s tu c{ 1 <? J. ^'"Q^ a 
rGSXiTt is a c^esi^n^ of^ 

iwifK sucfi. an oven dis- 
trinuriorL oPfKc ruGial 
'fnat the str-onj^l^Jz ar)cf 
'hver^/i^ covTiG justiixihe 

1847 ROGERS BROS. 

'*Siher Tlate 
that Wears" 

IS finis nocl bright. \t costs 
no morQ tKan an^' of our 
ofKor patterns and fitje^ 
ihGni_ is sola ^ifn ai 
zmquaupea j^ueirai 
i^Q that is bacfcod 
fcj^ tKg aciuAliesiT: 
or SlT^^ar^s. 



Sold by leading dealers 
Send forllluslrated cataloi? 

IMTERNATIONAL SILVER CO. 

Successor to Meridcn Bntanma Co. 

Meriden. Conn. 



NEW YORK CHICAGO- 
SAN FRANCISCO 
HAMILTON, CAN\OA 



^Stuj 




r/jc Worlds Lur^esi 
'dhers of iterlinii 
Sthorcind Plate 



DEAVER POARD 

PURE-WOOD-FIBRE 

Walls and Ceilings 





A BRIGHT CHEERY KITCHEN 

is a boon sought by every housewife and if 
they only knew how easy it is to have that 
cheerful kitchen, and in fact cheerfulness 
throughout every room in the house, by the 
use of Pure Wood Fibre BEAVER BOARD 
they would insist on having it specified for 
the walls of the new 
house or to cover the 
dingy, cracked plaster 
walls of the old home. 

BEAVER BOARD RP AWpW 
is sold in convenient "^ ^^^wa Wv 
sized panels, easy to JJ ^y^\, fx jP 
apply, and easy to 
keep clean after it is 
decorated. 

A BEAUTIFULLY 
painted sample of 
Beaver Board showing 
its famous pebbled 
surface, will be sent 
free at your request. 

It will make clear to you one of the 41 rea- 
sons why these and thousands of others are 
enthusiastic over their 

Beaver Board Walls and 
Ceilings 

And you can learn the 40 other reasons by 
asking also for our free book " Beaver Board 
and Ite Uses." Write today. 

The Beaver Companies 

United States: 1017 Beaver Rd. Buffalo. N. Y. 

Canada : 1017 Wall St., Beaverdale, Ottawa 

Great Britain : 4 Southampton Row, Russell 

Sq., London 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
254 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Jit your 
Orocerj , 



Ones/ the 20 Wat/s to5erve. 

Mak.; l>iinty Appetizing Diahes, Try 

SHEFFORO SNAPPY RAREBIT 

Melt ooe beapinz teaspooQ butter; one te»ipooo salt, miutard 
ptprik& mixed; ■'. SheffoH Sn&ppT Cheeses; when melted ».ld 
ooe-half cup of milt or ale, stir until smootJi; eerre on cr&ckerj 
for 6 people. 

The best cheese with Pie, Crackers or Saladi 




3weet.Nutty Flavori 



Do not be misled by imitations of our Trade 

Xame. "Snappy" is your safe^juaid of ihe 

g-enuine. 

If your dealer doesn't have it, send us his name 

and 10 cents ?or one package— 11.20 for one dozen, 

(iclivered prepaid. 

Booklet " 20 Ways to Use Snappy " FREE. 



Shefford- 



Trade 
Name 



t' SNAPPY 

CHEESE 



Cne^UT^Uqifd^ DdJRY Co., SYReiCirSE,/^.Y ' 




Indispensableinthe Kitchen 

Every well reflated kitchen needs a Sani- 
tary DuEtless Flour Sifter because it is the 
only eifter that acts as a bin and sifts flour 
in a featherv, flakey condition— -withort 
dust. Absolutely sanitary, keeping out 
insects, mice, dust and dampness. Will 
last a life time, When you want flour 
"just turn the crank." 

25-lb. size. $2.00 SO-lb. size $2.50 

Sent express prepaid to nearest station 
Pacific coast, fl.OO extra either size. Ask 
for booklet. Agents wanted. 

S. H. Vilas Mfg. Co., Burtington, Vt. 



1 



MRS. HILL'S 
COMPLETE COOK BOOK 




Over 700 Pages Illustrated Price $2.00 Net 

Will be sent postpaid, on receipt 
of $2.00, or to any address as a 
premium for four ( 4 ) yearly subscrip- 
tions to the magazine at $ 1 .00 each 
Address all orders to 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



SALT MACKEREL. 
CODEISH, ERESH LOBSTER 




FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied direct 
from GLOLCESTER, MASS.. by Frank E. Davis Fish Co.. 
with newly cauglit keepable OCEAN FISH choicer than 
any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We sell only to the CONSUMER DIRECT sending: by 
EXPRESS RIGHT TO \OLR HOME. We PREPAY ea^st 
of Kansas on orders above $3.00. 

YOU ARE CHOOSING and planning foods for your own 
table. Our fish are pure, appetizing and economical and we 
want you to try some, payment subject to your approval. 
Can you think of anything more likely to please your folks? 

SALT MACKEREL, meaty and delicious for breakfast, 
I ire freshly packed in brine and will not spoil on your hands. 

! CODFISH, as we salt it. is white and boneless. A per- 
I feet change from meat at much lower cost. 

I FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. 

I Right fresh from the water, our lobsters are simply boiled and 

: packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come to 

you as the purest and safest lobster you can buy and the 

meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell 

yourself. 

You are constantly seeing attractive recipes for salads. 
f'howders. creamed fish, sandwich fillings, chafing dish dain- 
ties, calling for Lobster. Crab. Shrimp. Clams. Salmon, sar- 
j dines, etc. Her are just the things ready to work %\-ith or 
: to serve right from the can. They are put up to keep safely 
i on your pantry shelf, for constant and emergency use. 
: With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES 
for all our products. 



-♦V 



Our list tells how each kind of fish is 
put up. with the delivered price, so 
vou can choose just what you will ..•• 

enjoy most. Send the coupon .-•'■' 

for it now. G^^t^^* 

.....^•^>" ■■■■ 



.*•' 



Lei Glcmcester be 
your Fish Market 
and Davis be 
your Fish- 
man. 









^\e* 



^^^' 



svr« 



0^ 



SKO^'' 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
255 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




\ 



^ 



Selling the first Ivory Soap — June, 1879 



Ivory Soap has been before the public over 
thirty-three years. 

During that time it has been advertised more 
extensively and continuously than any other 
article. This, in itself, proves that Ivory Soap 
is what Its advertising claims it to be. 

An article not so good as its makers claim 
may be advertised profitably only until its true 
character becomes known and the supply of 
new users exhausted. To make advertising pay 
for a icrm of years a product must have the 
merit promised by the advertisements so as to 
hold those who try it. 



Ivory Soap advertising, from the first, has 
said that Ivory Soap is pure and mild ; that it 
lathers freely and rinses easily ; that it contains 
no "free" (uncombined) alkali; that it cleanses 
thoroughly but does not injure the most tender 
skin or the most delicate fabric ; that it is the 
most economical soap. 

Ivory Soap has always fulfilled all these 
claims. It is pure. It is mild. It is pleasant 
to use. It is economical. People who try it 
get what they expect and therefore continue to 
use it. That is why it has been advertised for 
thirty-three years. 



V. 



■4 



IVORY SOAP 



(TFLOATs 



99^0^ PURE 



mmmmmmmti 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
256 



Menus for Thanksgiving 



Then he said unto them, "Go your zvay, eat 
the fat, and drink the sweet, and send por- 
tio{is^.untQtiithem for whom .^lo^hiiigj. is pre- 



pared,''^Nehe)mah viii. lO.fC-'l; '^ % 

Dinner 

Oyster Soup 

Celery Olives Salted Filberts 

Turkey, Roasted, Bread Dressing 

Giblet Sauce 

Garnish : Pork Sausage Cakes 

Cranberry Sauce Sweet Pickled Peaches 

Squash au Gratin 

Mashed Turnips Mashed Potatoes 

Onions Stuffed with Mushrooms 

Cauliflower a la Huntington 

Pumpkin Pie, Cheese 

Vanilla Ice Cream with Maple Syrup and 

Chopped Nuts 

Raisins Xuts 

Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Oysters in Chafing Dish 

Olives Celery 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Cold Roast Chicken. Sliced Thin 

Cranberry Jelly Currant Jelly 

Napoleons 

Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 



The 
Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XVII 



NOVEMBER, 1912 



No. 4 




VERY PLAIN AND SIMPLE 



The Dining-Room as it Should Be 



By Mary H. Northend 



IT is a self-evident fact that the din- 
ing apartment, more than any other, 
must be bright and cheerful, for it 
is the family meeting-place three times a 
day, and perfect harmony makes not 
only for happiness but also for good 
digestion. The stalwart farm-hand may 
not care how^ nor where he eats, but even 



he appreciates attractive surroundings, 
and to the person of sedentary habits, 
good taste and cheer in the dining-room 
are absolutely essential. Many a dyspep- 
tic owes his malady to the depressing 
dismalness of the room in which he eats. 
The situation is important. If possi- 
ble, the room should have both east and 



267 



268 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



west exposure, so that the sun will lie in 
it all day long. Plenty of windows are 
essential, and if the room lacks them. 
they should be let in, including, if pos- 
sible, a long narrow bay at one side. 
The bay serves a double purpose, light- 
ening the room and allowing space for 
window-boxes or a cosy seat. Try to 
have the windows so arranged that they 
will give cross draughts to provide for 
coolness in the summer months. 

A pantry or passage way between the 
kitchen and the dining-room is desirable, 
to prevent the odors of cooking from 
penetrating into other parts of the house. 
If this cannot be arranged, be even 
more particular than usual about ven- 
tilating, and see that the door between 
kitchen and dining-room is never care- 
lessly left open." 

Dining-room walls must be carefully 
handled and there' is probably no ques- 
tion more perplexing to the house- 
keeper than how to treat them. Much 
depends upon the size and situation of 



the room. With a low ceiling it is better 
to use plain or small-patterned paper or 
tinting, and run up in unbroken surface 
to the ceiling. High walls, if not too 
much cut into by doors and windows, will 
carry large-figured paper and may have 
moulding or plate rail if desired. 

A northern exposure requires red, yel- 
low or orange to catch the light and 
heighten it. Where the room faces the 
south, an entirely different treatment 
must be carried out. Here sunlight 
needs to be subdued, and blue, green or 
violet are best to choose for the color 
schemes. Light grows stronger as it as- 
cends, so, if there is variation in color, 
the lighter tones should be near the 
ceiling and the darker near the floor. 

The most economical mode of treat- 
ment depends to a great extent upon cir- 
cumstances. Wall-papers in pretty and 
artistic patterns can be purchased today 
as low as ten cents a roll, and while not 
the best, they are good enough for ordi- 
nary wear. Tinting has the advantage 




WITH AN AIR OF ELEGANCE 



THE DINING ROOM AS IT SHOULD BE 



269 




NEAT AND CONVENIENT 



that the walls may be cleaned indefi- 
nitely without harm, or without having 
to be treated to another coat of paint, 
and then, too, if at any time one tires of 
this flat tone, it can be changed easily 
for paper. 

For a large dining-room there is no 
woodwork more effective than mahog- 
any, in trim and furnishings, while in 
the small inexpensive home, either white 
or dark wood stain is suitable. Dark 
walnut stain is most fashionable today, 
and it harmonizes especially well with 
furniture of the Mission type. The low 
ceiling and square walls of the Colonial 
design lend themselves to most effective 
treatment and here there is no question 
as to the color of the woodwork, for it is 
invariably white, while the walls are 
always in soft tones, either tinted or 
covered with small-patterned paper. 

Hard wood makes the best flooring, 
and with so many polishes in the market, 
it can be easily cared for. with no more 
trouble than a carpet. Oak is best and 
next to that comes hard pine, then maple 



and birch, the last two cheaper, but 
lacking the resistant qualities of the 
other woods. 

In coverings the choice is wide. For 
summer wear, the crex rug, made of 
wire grass, strictly sanitary, and pos- 
sessing the advantages of lying smooth 
without curling, is admirable. This 
comes in an infinite variety of patterns 
and colorings, and will harmonize with 
any color scheme. A large square 12x15 
feet costs a little over $16.00. 

Then, there is the colonial rag rug, 
appropriate for any season. Reliable 
carpet dealers have these rugs woven 
from mill ends that have never been sold, 
thus insuring to the buyer new strong 
material free from contamination. Rugs 
of this make are more durable than crex. 
and cheaper, ranging in price from 
$11.49 for moderate sizes, to $16.80 for 
the larger ones. 

Druggets which bring for the large 
size, $32.00, are fashionable but ex- 
pensive, while the popular rug for good 
steadv use is the Axminster. which has 



270 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



a high rich nap and ranges from $12.75 
to as high as $20.00. Any of these can 
be obtained in good colors and many 
sizes. 

The hangings should follow the color- 
ing of wall surface and trim, yet have a 
distinct individuality of their own. For 
the entrance door, a portiere of rich 
silk or velour, or even the humbler cre- 
tonne, is effective ; the important point 
is that the material shall be substantial 
enough to afiford security to the room, if 
at any time it is desired to shut off the 
adjoining apartment. The window cur- 
tains can, of course, vary with the setting 
of the room. There are today so many 
pretty and inexpensive muslins, scrims, 
and heavier fabrics that it is an easy 
matter to provide for them. 

For summer nothing is prettier than 
cretonne or muslin, of which there is 
almost endless variety. Madras, thirty- 
five inches wide, in white and colors, 
comes from twenty-nine to thirty-nine 
cents a yard ; ruffled Swiss muslin cur- 
tains, dotted or plain, from ninety-eight 



cents a pair upward; while hand- 
blocked, light-weight muslin curtains 
may be had for $1.25 a pair. 

Built-in furniture should be employed 
wherever it can be artistically intro- 
duced. Window-seats give comfortable 
lounging spots, while the built-in cup- 
board allows space for other furnishings 
and is particularly appreciated, if the 
room is small. 

Most convenient is the let-in side- 
board, which has become so popular 
within the last few years. Besides sav- 
ing space, it is ornamental and afifords 
excellent accommodation for linen, 
china and glass-ware. If built with the 
house it is certainly not expensive, for 
the additional cost is so slight it can 
readily be afforded. Let-in sideboards 
are used not only in small houses and 
cottages, but also, sometimes, in more 
elaborate styles, in larger and more ele- 
gant homes. But whether separate or 
built-in the sideboard must be in keeping 
with the rest of the furniture, simple or 
ornate as the case may be. 




FINE. NOTE THE PANELS 



A BRANCH O' RED 



271 




REMODELED WITH TASTE 



The corner cupboard, a replica of the 
colonial idea, is never out of place, and 
when used for old silver and china, adds 
dignity and distinction. It is always 
done in white, often enamelled to give it 
a polished surface. Old mahogany, wal- 
nut, or oak may be used according to 
the size and ornateness of the dining- 
room. There should always be six small 
chairs, two arm-chairs, a table, a side- 
board, and a serving table. In addition 
to these, odd dressers of either oak, 
maple, or mahogany may be used. These 
have a clear, bevel glass mirror, often 
supported by scroll standards. Taste 
can be shown in selections. 



The keynote of a successful room lies 
in its definite planning. Whether the 
room is new, just being built, or merely 
an old room being renovated, arrange 
for each detail of decoration and fur- 
nishing before the actual work is begun. 
Take time and plenty of it to study con- 
struction and decoration, and do not be- 
come discouraged, if it takes some time 
to make the room exactly as you want 
it. It may be a fortunate coincidence 
that you are able to purchase the right 
things at once, but if not, do not hurry, 
for you owe it to yourself and your 
family to make this room the most at- 
tractive in your house. 



A Branch O' Red 



A branch o' red in the green, 

Around the River bend ! 
From ^yhere?— and how did it come 

And is this Summer's end? 



Oh, branch o' red in the green, 
Oh, crimson life aglow, 

Soul-clear beneath in the stream. 
Did God's touch make you so 



Above the stream of the years. 
On Youth's dear strength I'd lean, 

And see my life reflected — 
A branch o' red in the green ! 

Clara SEA^fAX Chase. 



Her Change of Heart 

By Alix Thorn 



I 



AM sure that Cousin Candace 
will ask you to Littlefield for 
Thanksgiving, Katherine," said 
Mrs. Foster, watching her tall daughter, 
who was carefully folding a blue storm 
coat before laying it in the open trunk 
before her. ''Why, it seems but yester- 
day that I saw the old town !" 

Katherine suddenly crossed the room 
and dropped a light kiss upon her moth- 
er's soft hair; "I didn't need to look at 
you, Mother mine, to know that you 
wore your Eastern look; all of us chil- 
dren can tell from the tone of your 
voic^, a different sort of note, when 
you're thinking of your loved East. 
Oh, bad little Mother, after all these 
years still it's your heart's love." 

Mrs. Foster smiled deprecatingly at 
her daughter, pausing a moment before 
replying: ''Katherine, you would not ex- 
pect me to forget New England, would 
you, dear, where I was born and brought 
up, and where my ancestors lived for 
generations ! Why, my darling, New 
England blood runs in your veins, too, 
though you arc a loyal Westerner." 

"I know it ;" and Katherine returned 
to her packing, "and I also know that 
my mother is glad, uncommonly glad, 
that her daughter is going to an Eastern 
college." 

**Yes, glad, even though she doesn't 
know how she's going to get along with- 
out her", and Mrs. Foster turned away 
to hide her brimming eyes. 

It was a sober group that gathered on 
the piazza one early September morn- 
ing, waiting for the carriage that was 
to take Katherine to the station. Four- 
teen-year-old Kitty clung to her sister's 
hand as if she would never let her go ; 
Bobby openly wiped his eyes, imashamed 
of his tears, despite his eight years ; big 
brother, Tom, cleared his throat repeat- 
edly, as if trying to get rid of a trouble- 



some lump, while, at the hall window. 
Black Jane's suffused countenance was 
quite lost behind her checked apron. 

Katherine, herself, pale but composed, 
watched first her mother's face, then her 
father's, as if trying to photograph them 
upon her memory. Now, she was in the 
carriage — "I love you all !" she cried, a 
sad little break in her usually firm tones, 
"don't get used to doing without me, 
don't !" She was gone, and Katherine's 
first little journey into the world had 
begun. 

" — It's just like a beautiful dream 
come trueT' wrote Katherine to her 
family; "this life at College since I've 
conquered my first home-sickness. It 
would take simply reams of paper to tell 
you about it. You mustn't think I don't 
miss you, oh, so much, and that I don't 
often feel that all my dear people are 
far, far away, but there's such joy in my 
new experiences. Already I discover 
that I'm very loyal to my college — 
never was another quite so wonderful ! 
The girls I have met are fine and 
straight-forward, and act just as West- 
ern as Eastern. In fact, most of the 
states from Maine to Texas are repre- 
sented here, and oh, this to you. Mother, 
for you will sympathize, I never tire of 
watching the wonderful, far-off moun- 
tains ! You know, I hadn't seen moun- 
tains until I came to the East. They 
are like great, big, loyal, steadfast 
friends ; always there, always restful ; 
seems to me the wind that blows over 
them must be purer and fresher than 
any other. Perhaps it's because I've al- 
ways lived in level country that the 
mountains impress me the way they do." 

As the days swiftly passed and Kath- 
erine settled down to the regular routine 
of college her happiness still continued, 
and life seemed to take on a newer, 
deeper meaning. The broad-minded, 



1 



272 



HER CHANGE OF HEART 



273 



earnest women, her instructors, with 
whom she was so closely associated, 
called forth her honest admiration, and 
inspired her to put her best into her 
work. 

Cold winds swept down the valley, 
sudden frosts turned to wonderful crim- 
son the ivy on the gray stone buildings, 
and the reign of summer was over and 
done. Long walks the girls took over 
the country roads, getting enchanting 
glimpses of changing woodland, the 
sombre stretches of pine forests, and the 
barren, brown fields. They watched the 
white farm-houses, their barns and out- 
buildings in solid line like fortresses, the 
sleek cattle, and the vagabond turkeys 
wandering far from the purlieus of 
home. Appetizing odors, fragrant, pun- 
gent, were wafted out from opened 
kitchen windows ; very evidently the 
thrifty New England housewives w^ere 
putting up their winter store of pickles 
and ketchups. How different, how very 
different, Katherine told herself, from 
the stirring Western town that was her 
home. \A^as it heredity or adaptability, 
that made her so oddly content with all 
the newness? 

It w'as early in November that one 
morning Katherine found in her letter 
box an envelope directed in an unfamil- 
iar hand. Small, spidery, precise letters 
traveled across its linen surface, 'and as 
she examined it more closely, she saw 
that it bore the postmark, Littlefield. 

*T'm only doing it to please Mother", 
and Katherine wrote her note of accept- 
ance, looking anything but happy as she 
did so, for. as had been prophesied. Miss 
Candace Wheeler had written to her 
young relative, asking her to spend 
Thanksgiving at the Wheeler homestead, 
in historic Littlefield. 

*'0h, Molly!" said Katherine to her 
sympathetic room-mate, later that even- 
ing, 'T just wish there were not such 
things as family obligations ! How much 
rather I'd accept your mother's lovely 
invitation, and go home wath you ! Why, 
I've never even seen New York, and 



now I must travel off to some bleak, 
New England hill-top where lives an un- 
known cousin. It all sounds so austere 
and chilly ! 

''And historic," broke in the irrepres- 
sible Molly. "Well, cheer up, dearest 
child, you'll be asked again to our house, 
and as you seem to feel it your duty to 
seek out this highly respectable relative, 
why, face it like a man — and a fresh- 
man!" 

Three weeks later found Katherine, 
suit-case in hand, standing on the plat- 
form of the little wind-blown station at 
Littlefield, awaiting the arrival of the 
stage, glad of her warm coat and furs, 
for there was a feeling of snow in the 
air. 

"Miss Candace said in her letter, that 
I must take the stage up the hill, and 
that the driver would put me down at 
her house, now is this the stage, I won- 
der! and the girl turned to see at her 
elbow a tall, red-faced, fur-capped man, 
who clapped his gloved hands vigorously 
together as he inquired, "Are you the 
girl that's bound for Miss Wheeler's?" 

'T am", and so friendly was the voice, 
and so very friendly the face, that Kath- 
erine smiled at her interrogator, and let 
him take her suit-case to the two-seated 
covered wagon that served as a stage. 

"Guess everyone in the country knows 
the place, and knows Miss Wheeler, 
too," began the driver as he started up 
his horse, "splendid lady, never met a 
better one — that old house must have 
stood there full two hundred years, and 
you have never seen it ! You ain't a 
relation, I take it ! Shoo, you are ! Well, 
it's because you are from the far West, 
then, and couldn't get here. I remem- 
ber your mother, now I hear your name. 
Pretty girl she was, too, long braids 
down her back. Expect the West is a 
great place, but there can't nothing come 
up to New England, I say. Whoa, there 
— here we are, and I see Miss Wheeler 
herself, peerin' out of the parlor win- 
dow." 

''You are very welcome, Katherine," 



274 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



and Miss Candace held out both white 
hands, and drew the girl out of the win- 
ter night into the light and warmth of 
the tiny hall. 

'There is hardly room to turn around 
here, my dear," saicMier hostess, glanc- 
ing at the white stairs with their dark 
railing, the tall clock that faced the front 
door, and the small round table at one 
side. 

"Yes, Joel, take the suit-case to the 
West Chamber, if you will, and now. 
Katherine, I will, myself, go up with 
you." 

Steep, indeed, the narrow stairs, but 
following her guide she slowly ascended, 
then passing down the hall, entered the 
large chamber, which seemed to the 
weary young traveler the very abode of 
peace, for white, dimity curtains with 
little ball fringe draped the small-paned 
windows, a marvelous white crocheted 
spread covered the mahogany bed ; white 
matting was on the floor, even the little 
candle stand at the head of the bed had 
its own snowy scarf. 

Above the narrow mantle hung the 
painted portrait of a smiling girl, and 
before it Katherine lingered as if fasci- 
nated, studying the speaking face. 
Sweet, wide-opened eyes looked out 
from that tarnished frame; high puffed 
hair, brightly brown, rose smoothly 
above the low white forehead, and folds 
of some brocaded stuff were drawn 
down primly until they met the round 
waist. And as the young guest watched 
the pictured face so Miss Candace 
watched Katherine, noting the straight, 
supple figure, the flushed oval cheeks, 
the shining brown hair, and the uplifted 
gray eyes ; watched and nodded to her- 
self as if pleased at her own thoughts. 

''How dear she is — how dear and 
young!" exclaimed Katherine. "Who, 
oh, who was she, Miss Candace?" 

''Her name was also Katherine", was 
the reply, "and she was an ancestress of 
yours, my child ; another branch of our 
family possess a later portrait of her 
when she was almost middle-aged, and 



still she smiled, though sorrow had sil- 
vered her hair." 

"An ancestress of mine," repeated 
Katherine as, Miss Candace having left 
her, she tucked in a refractory lock, 
standing before the quaint dresser, "and 
what a darling ancestress !" 

Later at table, noting the rare old 
china, using the time-worn silver, and 
listening to the gentle voice of her new 
relative, the girl was unusually silent. 
In this wonderful old home had lived 
generations of her forbears. They had 
sat at this very table, here kept their 
feasts, passing in and out of these nar- 
row doors. Theirs the dark portraits 
that looked down upon her — some of 
them, noble colonial gentlemen, had made 
history. Instinctively she straightened 
herself; it was a thing to be proud of, 
this New England ancestry ! 

"I'm glad, so glad you asked me here. 
Miss Candace," exclaimed Katherine 
impulsively. 

"And I, too, am glad that you could 
come", was Miss Candace's reply. "I 
half feared you might find it a hardship ; 
and now, if you are quite through, don't 
you want to see more of the rooms ?" 

"Oh, I surely do," was the eager reply. 
Old high-boys, dark with age, stood side 
by side with carved chairs, which seemed 
to hold out their stiff arms as if inviting 
this new comer to try their slippery 
seats ; long, low-backed couches, covered 
with horsehair, lined the walls, while 
treasures of quaint bric-a-brac filled the 
narrow mantles. Shining brass andirons 
guarded the broad fireplaces, whose leap- 
ing flames brought out the rich colorings 
in the dark rugs, and flickered on the 
painted screens. Treasures enough to 
make many a collector wild with envy 
were gathered within this one old home. 

Next morning, through softly falling ^ 
snow. Miss Candace and Katherine 
walked down the broad street between 
lines of leafless elms, crossed the green, 
and entered the Congregational Church 
for the Thanksgiving service. Reverent 
were the faces of the congregation;^ 



HER CHANGE OF HEART 



275 



many of them elderly women, and un- 
trained most of the voices that were 
raised in the Thanksgiving hymn : — 

"All people that on Earth do dwell 
Sing to the Lord with cheerful voice." 

Slowly the girl's eyes traveled from 
the high, narrow pulpit, where stood the 
white-haired clergyman, to the line of 
illustrious names inscribed upon the 
wall, former pastors who had preached 
in this church. Eong years they had 
humbly served the little parish, and their 
works lived after them. Holy ground, 
thought Katherine, for in this house of 
God, men and women of her name had 
worshipped; and, bending her head, she 
whispered a little prayer that she might 
be worthy of those who had gone before 
her. 

"And this is Katherine Foster!" an- 
nounced Cousin Candace, two hours 
later, to the cheerful group of relatives, 
who had been bidden to the Thanks- 
giving feast at her house. "Amelia's 
daughter, a Foster, but yet, / decide, she 
is all Wheeler." 

"So she is, so she is," chimed in a 
brisk old lady, who adjusted her specta-. 
cles, the better to study the girlish face. 

"Eyes very like her mother's," inter- 
posed a white-haired old gentleman. 

"Doesn't she resemble the portrait of 
young Katherine, upstairs, Richard?" 
inquired Cousin Candace almost anx- 
iously, and he of the snowy hair agreed 
with gratifying alacrity. "And you 
needn't mind, either, my dear," he as- 
sured Katherine, with a gallant little 
bow. 

"Indeed, I'm very glad you think so", 
and the young girl quite glowed wi^h 
pleasure. Like the painted Katherine, 
upstairs, — why, she was lovely — and 
then the cheerful chatter and remi- 
niscing went on, and the bountiful din- 
ner, begun in sunshine, ended by the light 
of the quaint silver candelabra. 

Before the open fire in the drawing 
room, later in the evening, when all the 



guests had gone, Katherine and her host- 
ess sat side by side, visiting as if they 
had known each other all their lives. 
The older woman's cheeks were a lovely 
pink in the firelight, and the delicate lace 
ruffles of her cap seemed a fitting frame 
for the cameo-like face. 

"You love it all, my child, I can see 
that without your telling", she began, 
breaking the silence, and her voice was 
not quite steady; "that is well, Katherine. 
Today I watched you at service, and I 
was glad to read what I did in your face. 
Then, too", clasping the girl's firm fin- 
gers in her own frail ones, "you love it 
all, not knowing." 

"Yes, I do love it, this old house, the 
street, the very atmosphere of the place 
— vrhy is it?" and Katherine's innocent 
eyes studied the bright coals as if seek- 
ing an answer. "As I came out of the 
church this morning I found myself 
saying, T, too. am a part of this, I have 
a share', and then Katherine reverted 
to the mother, who was never long out 
of her thoughts. ''She will be glad I 
feel so'', she said, unashamed of the sud- 
den rush of tears. "New England is so 
dear to little Mother; her heart flies 
back over the miles like a homing pigeon, 
straight to her unforgotten hills and val- 
leys. Xow, for the first time, I appre- 
ciate her feelings." 

It was the following day that Kath- 
erine again stood in the little square 
hall, but this time she was saying good- 
bye to Cousin Candace, and saying it 
with real regret. True, college and all 
that beautiful life lay ahead of her, the 
warm-hearted girls she had grown to 
depend upon, the interest of her studies, 
but she clung to her gentle relative as 
she heard the stage outside. "I will 
surely come again, and when you ask 
me, Cousin Candace. I am so glad to 
realize that I belong." 

She was being swiftly carried down 
the long street ; the cold wind fanned 
her cheeks and blew some icy particles 
from an over-hanging branch onto the 
lap-robe — but she no longer saw the 



276 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



snow-covered green, the fine old resi- 
dences, the tall church spire, that was 
outlined against the blue sky, — what was 
it that Cousin Candace had whispered as 
they parted, an unbelievable, wonderful 
thing, a golden secret which only she 
and Cousin Candace knew? So strange 



was it, so new yet, that she wanted time 
to make it seem real — still, still she 
heard the soft voice saying as they 
parted, 'T'm so happy that you feel as 
you do about my dear old home, for 
listen, Katherine, it is to be vours, one 
day." 



A Plea for Better Hotels in Small Towns 

By E. E. K. 



IT has long been my ambition to 
regulate the Hotel business of this 
country, especially the part per- 
taining to food, meals and service. This 
ambition may sound a trifle far-reach- 
ing, and so far I have not been called 
upon to undertake this pleasing duty. 
Still, with due respect to all concerned, 
I should like to make a few comparisons. 

I do not speak of the largest hotels of 
our largest cities : they are a thing apart ; 
but rather of the average American hotel 
of the smaller towns. How few good 
hotels we have ! 

On a recent automobile trip, which 
extended from the Middle Western 
States to the Atlantic Coast and back, 
covering a distance of over 3600 miles, 
this truth was brought home with force. 
The hotels encountered were almost in- 
variably very much below the average of 
even what one ought with fairness to 
expect and demand. Out of twenty-five 
hotels on this trip, five were passably 
good; one, and this one was in Indiana, 
was really good. 

On an average, the prices at these 
hotels were $2.00 the day. In the smaller 
towns of Europe two persons can live at 
the best hotels for fourteen francs the 
day, which, of course, is not quite $3.00 
in our money. And the food and ser- 
vice are certainly so far superior that a 
comparison is hardly possible. How- 
ever, I am going to compare. 

In the first place, the ''American 
plan", which prevails in this country 



naturally corresponds to the "pension 
plan" of Europe, but with what a differ- 
ence ! Over there, there is no array of 
many little "bird bath tubs", according 
to Mark Twain, around the plate. Each 
course is served from a platter, and each 
one is apt to be, and generally is, very 
good and often delicious. 

Also, over there things are appetizing 
and dainty, which is something that can- 
not be said about the majority, if any, 
of the hotels of the small town in Amer- 
ica. Of course, here the large mid-day 
dinner will, perhaps, always prevail, 
while there it is luncheon at noon, inva- 
riably. 

Their breakfasts are much lighter 
than ours, only rolls and coffee and 
fruit, as a rule. Our men think that this 
is not sufficient ; perhaps it is not, though, 
personally, I think it is largely habit. 
Possibly our men are more strenuous. 
This I can't say. 

It would hardly be worth while to give 
here the menu card of one of the good 
foreign small hotels, as the American 
bill of fare is such an imposing thing to. 
behold, at even the small hotels, that, I 
fear, the other would thereby suffer, 
while, as a matter of fact, what is served 
over there is good, and here, through 
sad experience, the food so often is 
scarcely eatable. 

Of course, in Europe, tea is served 
about four or five o'clock. While this 
was originally an English custom, tea is 
gaining ground every day, and is now 



THE HOUSE OE NEVER AGAIN 



277 



almost always served on the Continent 
instead of coffee, which they used to 
prefer. 

They dine later, too, as a rule, and 
make more of a ceremony of dinner, for 
which the busy American has not time 
enough. 

Ai one hotel, in particular, in Europe, 
the small tables were always adorned 
with flowers, different kinds on every 
table, and this was one of the 14 franc 
hotels. The proprietor attended per- 
sonally to this. How many hotel pro- 
prietors in America would "waste time" 
doing anything so useless? 

And now, as to the "regulating" of 
our hotels, it seems to me that the solu- 
tion lies in greater simplicity of the 
mtiiU, and in an expenditure of more 
time and thought on what is served, and 
how. 

What a relief it would be, after a long 
day's ride in an automobile, or for the 
tired, traveling salesman, after a hard 
day's work, to enter an hotel, first of 
all. immaculately clean. Secondly, 
where in the dining-room small tables 
might be had instead of the long, cheer- 
less-looking ones that have so long 
served their time. Next, table linen 
plain and clean. Then, a very simple 
menu of a few things, well-cooked and 
well-served. 

This, it seems to me, is not asking too 
much in a country like America, where 



all foods are so bountiful. 

As a matter of fact, meat in Europe 
is far below the meat to be had in any 
of our small towns. But, while, over 
there, they take the time to prepare it 
carefully and make it eatable, here, it is 
usually "fried" in its native state and 
served to the long-suffering wayfarer. 
"Rare" means not cooking it, and "well 
done", burning. 

Even butter is not good in America, 
not in the small country hotels where 
one should be almost sure of finding it 
fresh and sweet. On the contrary, in 
Europe it is always good, fresh, sweet 
and unsalted. Bread, too, over there is 
infinitely preferable to the soggy mass 
one is sei-ved with here, or possibly some 
sorry-looking "biscuits". 

Coffee, in Europe, is generally not 
served with meals, a light wine usually 
taking its place, and then it is served 
after luncheon or dinner. Americans, 
as a rule, do not care for the European 
coffee, but, surely, it is preferable to the 
coffee that is served in the American 
hotels, which it has been the misfortune 
of so many to be compelled to drink. 

And so we may do without flowers, 
tea, and the prettier ways of doing 
things, but for the benefit of the travel- 
ing public I ask, may we not have some 
simple food, well-chosen and eatable, 
and this in the average, small town hotel 
of America? 



The House of Never Again 



Oh Never Again is in Fairyland, 

It lies just past the reach of your hand ; 

Out of reach in the Long Ago, 

Yet plain to see in the afterglow — 

And girt with gardens you used to know. 

Dear gardens you used to know ! 

And oh, you long for the things you miss, 
Just out of reach, for a baby's kiss ; 
For a smile that blessed, a touch that thrilled, 
The flower that's crushed, the wine that's 

spilled ; 
A hope that died and a joy that's killed; 
A beautiful joy that's killed. 



And turn to look at the olden way — 
And long and long for a bygone day — 
And wish you might fare by field and fen, 
By winding pathway and greening glen, 
Back to the lands of Never Again; 
Lost lands of Never Again. 

There is no way back by path or trail, 
Not ever a way to that fairy vale ; 
But this you may have, if you will it so. 
You may build again in the afterglow. 
If Love came safe from the Long Ago — 
Safe out of the Long Ago. 

Grace Stone Field, 



When Hard Times Came 



By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



HARD TIMES is a sociable lady 
and comparatively few people 
but, soon-er or later, have sensed 
her approaching footstep and have for a 
time been forced to house her. But 
blessed is she who has made the lady 
welcome and sought to learn her mis- 
sion. She has found that, deep down in 
the visitor's voluminous draperies, oppor- 
tunity's royal message oft lies concealed, 
and from this unsought interview has 
risen up a stronger and wiser \yoman. 

Mayhap the one so favored has been 
pointed to some new goal on hope's hori- 
zon, and has set forth on an interesting 
quest, determined to win and to acquire 
the inimitable smile of those who are 
"making good". It is of such I would 
speak. 

Two maiden ladies of my acquaint- 
ance were so visited, with the result that 
they were left dependent on their own 
resources. 

A mental inventory of their assets 
showed that they both possessed the 
knowledge gained by Normal School 
training and the ability to supervise 
housekeeping with that nicety of detail 
characteristic of the New England 
housewife. Teaching and housekeeping 
were both distasteful, so the older sister 
straightway formed a clientele among 
the society women of an adjoining city 
by giving her personal supervision to 
their marketing. Four days a week she 
goes to market and selects with utmost 
care all the viands to grace each patron's 
board. In case of sickness, she has 
sometimes planned the menus. She 
caters for about six families and is so 
well liked and dependable that to the 
marketing she has been obliged to add 
the duty of supplying servants for the 
several households. 

The younger woman makes the most 
delectable preserves, jellies, marmalades. 



pickles, catsups, etc., and finds a ready 
market for them through the Woman's 
Industrial Union of the neighboring city 
and the Woman's Exchange of her 
home-town. 

I have visited her jelly- rooms in the 
fruit season and such a variety of colors 
greeted me! The green of mint jelly, 
and on down through the yellow and 
amber shades of grape fruit, orange, and 
apple marmalades and apple butter, to 
the deepening reds of quince, crabapple, 
and wild grape jellies made an array of 
dainties to tempt the palate of the most 
fastidious epicure. 

Together these women are able to 
maintain a modest but attractive home. 
Their contact with the world has trans- 
formed them into self-reliant, broad- 
minded women, simply because Hard 
Times came bringing them the blessed 
privilege of work, and the incalculable 
lesson of adjustment to circumstances. 

Again, a married woman whom I 
know has found it necessary to swell the 
family exchequer. She makes a very 
effective workbag for women, which sells 
for two dollars. These she disposes of 
through a man who runs a bazaar near 
a fashionable summer hotel. He charges 
fifty cents commission for the sale of 
each bag. In Summer these were sold 
at a Northern watering-place, and in 
winter at a famous Southern resort. 
She has netted over six hundred dollars 
from this particular bag and, being re- 
markably gifted with her needle, has 
other avenues of income, and boasts of 
the fact that in her twenty years of mar- 
ried life she has never asked her hus- 
band for money to buy his Christmas 
present. 

An ambitious young woman in the 
same town earns generous pin-money by 
securing subscriptions for the various 
magazines and, incidentally, in being "A 

278 



WHEN HARD TIMES COMF 



279 



Mother's Helper". She Hves on an ave- 
nue where the families measure up to 
the true Rooseveltian standard, and 
many a weary mother "hails with delight 
this fresh-faced girl, as she comes with 
a fund of new stories and games to en- 
tertain the youngsters, while "Mother" 
spends an afternoon at the club or mat- 
inee. 

Last summer in the Berkshires I came 
upon an inviting little Tea-room. It 
was in an old-fashioned farmhouse near 
one of the much-travelled automobile 
roads. The gentle proprietor had fur- 
nished it artistically, but with colonial 
simplicity ; and served, during the after- 
noon hours, a variety of dainty sand- 
wiches, ices and tea. A closer acquaint- 
ance with her revealed the fact that she 
was an aspiring young artist, and during 
the remainder of the year was busy in 
her studio, as an attractive table, prom- 
inently placed, bore testimony. Here 
were exhibited all sorts of hammiered 
brass articles and appealing bits of 
water-color which found ready sale as 
souvenirs for the visiting tourists. In 
change of work she found her relaxation 
and this amid the additional invigoration 
of mountain air. 

Another clever young woman has 
solved the problem of scarcity of funds 
by making fancy boxes. Boxes for 
candy, gloves, handkerchiefs and all the 
various uses dear to the feminine heart. 
Many of these receptacles are covered 
with wall paper of pretty floral designs. 
Others are ribbon-trimmed and touched 
with gold ink. For candied flowers and 
fruits she makes small ribbon-bound 
glass boxes and has evolved a handicraft 
which pays, as she has many private 



orders as well a.s regular I-'xchaTij^c ^nlcs 
in more than one city. 

Similarly rewarded ha> .,^^i, a ^>n■^\\g 
California woman who is an artist with 
mineral paints. She specializes in stein 
decoration and her unique and deftly 
executed designs are eagerly sought. 

A particularly trying case of individ- 
ual struggle was that of a married 
woman, with children, whose husband 
sustained an injury to the back that ren- 
dered him helpless. But the wife, being 
an excellent cook, began baking and sell- 
ing her products to friends and neigh- 
bors who were only too glad to patronize 
her. She makes a specialty of bread, 
cookies, doughnuts, pies and cakes, and 
bakes beans to order. Her prices arc 
somewhat higher than those of the ordi- 
nary baker, but the difference in the 
food supplied is more than worth it. So 
successful has she been that she is un- 
able to meet the demand and at present 
is contemplating hiring assistants and 
opening a small bakery. 

And so on could be mentioned innum- 
erable homes where this grim mistress 
of necessity has knocked, but in no case 
were those visited left empty-handed. 
On the contrary, many have been made 
cognizant of some thwarted talent and 
have set out to bring it to fruited de- 
development. Often the result could 
not have been anticipated. 

To be sure, all those referred to, in 
tliis brief article, have known days when 
their gray-visaged guest seemed a stern 
task-mistress, but now, each secretly and 
happilv remembers how\ when life 
looked wholly barren — out of a ruined 
garden, — Hard Times found for them 
the kernel of long-coveted Success. 



The Heart That Dares 



Oh the stirring" and rough and impetuous 
song, 

The song of the heart that dares ; 
That keeps to its creed and gives no heed 

To the faces that fortune wears ! 



That heart that laughs when the foe is met, 
And thrives and tires at taunt and threat, 

And tinds no toiling or travelling long, 
For the sake of the good it bears. 

SWSKNEY. 



American Commodities Sold in Paris 

By Frances Sheaf er Waxman 



PARIS has ceased to be a strange 
city to the traveler, and has be- 
come, instead, a city of strangers. 
For it is safe to say that no other me- 
tropohs of the world is the Mecca for 
so many alien peoples. It is the Elysian 
Fields of all the Latin population of the 
earth, who dream of spending their 
wealth there. Whether or not "all good 
Americans" ultimately attain to Paris 
when they die, we may never know, but 
certain it is that hordes of living Amer- 
icans, concerning whose standards of 
goodness we have no outward proofs, 
visit the French capital yearly for stays 
of varying length. The French them- 
selves say that Paris is all American, 
during July and August. The traveling 
Englisti people, and they are many, in- 
variably stop at Paris on their way to 
and from Switzerland, where they al- 
ways spend their Christmas holidays; 
and it is a regular custom for the rail- 
way companies to issue reduced-rate 
tickets from London to Paris, at Easter. 
Even the antagonistic Germans, les sals 
Prussiens, so hated by the French, sel- 
dom fail to include Paris in a travel 
schedule. 

None of these peoples who go to 
Paris need feel any longer in a foreign 
atmosphere, for the canny French have 
sought out the preferences of their 
stranger visitors, and have endeavored 
t provide for them. Naturally, since 
the thrifty French regard the extrava- 
gant Americans as the richest people on 
the earth, it is for them especially that 
they fill their shops with enticing wares, 
either French things which Americans 
go to Paris to seek, or American com- 
modities as the French understand them. 

French dressmakers have come to 
realize that American women require a 
somewhat different fit from that exacted 
by French standards. Indeed, the women 



of the tvvo races have different figures. 
The French women are more homhee, 
as their own coutiirieres are careful to 
explain to their American customers. 
Though the makers of clothes in France 
may not approve of the physical con- 
struction of their American patrons, 
they are not above conforming their de- 
signs to it, in the interest of their annual 
gains. It is for this reason that a broad- 
shouldered man or woman need no 
longer attempt to wear the tight-fitting, 
narrow-chested French coat. There are 
establishments in the American quarters 
of Paris which advertise American 
shirtwaists for sale, meaning the trim, 
tailored, pique and percale waists worn 
by Americans. 

American men have made their pro- 
tests against French tailoring methods 
for a sufficiently long time to impress 
the French workman, and he can now 
be persuaded to cut an American suit 
according to the tastes and wishes of his 
American customer. To be sure, he will 
shrug his shoulders with a deprecating 
"ca sera comme monsieur le desire," 
which plainly expresses his own estimate 
of the American masculine garb. 

Although French taste may criticise 
the American manner of dressing, it has 
accepted American shoes. In the Opera 
quarter and on the Grands Boulevards, 
there are a dozen or more houses selling 
well-known American makes, and their 
shoes are not all bought by the transient 
or permanent American residents of 
Paris. These establishments have sprung 
into existence, in order to meet the urgent 
need of a people who could not possibly 
confine their feet within the narrow, 
paddle-like shoes of the French. Al- ^ 
though Paris clings to its dress tradi- " 
tions, and with justice, since it makes 
the fashions for all the world, it can 
occasionally receive an inspiration from 



AMERICAN COMMODITIES IX PARIS 



281 



outside, and the Erench have recognized 
the more pleasing form of American 
shoes to the point of copying them in 
their native makes. The Parisian 
midinctte now takes her noonday outing 
shod, and very prettily, with a good imi- 
tation of an American pump, although 
it may have cost as little as ten francs, 
and be made oi nothing more lasting 
than oil-cloth. This latter homely ma- 
terial, for some inexplicable reason, is 
sold as American cloth in Erance. 

American edibles have made a tri- 
umphant entry into Paris, and this in 
spite of Erench prejudices in food, which 
are even stronger than those clinging to 
their manner of dress. The "heart of 
Paris", which is, of course, the Place 
Vendome quarter, has been invaded with 
tea-rooms and food-shops, each one of 
which advertises some special American 
commodity. A little shop in the Rue 
Daunou sells American layer cakes, pop- 
corn, and fudge. It, also, conducts a 
diminutive soda-water fountain, where 
any homesick American may eat his ice- 
cream soda out of a tall glass w^ith a long 
spoon, just as he would at home. Near 
by is a small wine shop where American 
drinks are dispensed, and where Amer- 
ican men of even a long time residence 
in Paris will often stop for a cocktail 
l-efore dinner as a substitute for the 
French aperitif. In the Rue Cambon 
is a tea-room which serves hot cakes 
with maple syrup, also doughnuts and 
apple pie. 

In the Montparnasse quarter, peopled 
almost exclusively by American stu- 
dents, all the cr emeries and small eating 



places make some attempt at tickling the 
American palate. Breakfast foods are 
no longer unknown there, and oatmeal 
of a somewhat pasty consistency may be 
had at establishments considering them- 
selves progressive, like Josephine's, for 
example. The American- layer cake has 
invaded the Rizr Gauche, also, and a 
very good Lady Baltimore can be bought 
at a tea-room in the Rue du Bac. 
Erench people who taste this American 
dislicacy will admit its excellence. They 
have even been known to buy it for 
some special home function. But when 
they serve it, it is not in the generous 
wide wedges of American picnic meth- 
ods, but in thin, wafer-like slices which 
utterly fail to satisfy an American cake 
appetite. 

All the large groceries have introduced 
among their exotic commodities certain 
American products. The Bostonian in 
Paris may, therefore, occasionally eat his 
inspiring baked beans as well as the ap- 
petizing catsup accessory. Cranberries 
are sold in the Potin shops, likewise 
sweet potatoes. A fruit shop back of the 
^Madeleine sells grape fruit and Amer- 
ican peanuts. 

It is not to be inferred, from this list 
of American commodities sold in Paris, 
that that gay Erench city is any the less 
Erench because of its large floating 
American population. Paris, through all 
its changes, whether of government or 
of fashion, remains ever the most typical 
of Erench cities — a city having an in- 
explicable cJiarme, a charm, any French- 
man vv'ill tell you, due to the fact that 
it offers something to tout le monde. 



November 



No more in solemn purple deeps 

The swallows swim ; 
And cold the shivering shadow creeps 

O'er fading landscapes dim. 
The charm of stillness absolute 
Folds Nature to remotest root; 

All gates are sealed; earth sleeps. 



For birds that go and birds that come, 

Migration is rest ; 
The heart of every tree is numb ; 

All pulses pause, oppressed 
With slumber strange and deathly deep ; 
Even such dull-eyed guards as keep 

Late watch, are dumb. 

Stokely S. Fisher. 



The Origin of Chowder 

By Anna Sawyer 



PROBABLY nine out of ten New 
Englanders believe "Chowder" to 
be of local origin, and the proper 
method for its preparation has de- 
scended to them from their ancestors, 
the "early settlers". To be sure, the 
New Englander knows that compounds 
of sorts masquerade under the sacred 
name in other localities, notably in New 
York, where a soup of fish or clams is 
made with the addition of tomato — a 
proof positive that this is not the "real 
article", since chowder was well known 
long before that vegetable was ever 
heard of, even as a poisonous "fruit". 

As a matter of fact, all chowder is 
good; New York chowder is good 
enough for most people, and New Eng- 
land chowder is good enough for any- 
one, for, to paraphrase what Dr. Butler 
said of the strawberry, "Doubtless God 
might have made a better dish, but 
doubtless God never did". 

But the surmise — for it is only that — 
that this' favorite article of food should 
have been an outcome of the simple re- 
sources of our ancestors is natural 
enough. From Governor Bradford's 
diary we learn how "abundant" were 
both fish and shell-fish, and we know 
that they were abundantly used, but in 
spite of the evidence, neither in New 
England nor in New York, nor indeed 
in America, did chowder have its origin ; 
for it we may again give thanks to 
France, as for other culinary successes, 
though it is neither to Paris nor a 
"cordon bleu" that we owe this delect- 
able dish. It comes to us from the 
rough shores of Brittany, where, locally, 
the conditions were much the same as in 
New England. Here the receipt was 
discovered — or rather evolved — from 
necessities, which were also so nearly 
the same that it is not strange the dish 



has been mistaken as one of our native 
products. 

The shores of Brittany are washed by 
the same ocean that bathes the shores of 
our "land of the sacred cod", and many 
of its people, like our own, have been 
fishermen, from generation to generation. 
At some time in the history of these toil- 
ers of the sea, a time long ante-dating 
our first Thanksgiving, the first chowder 
was made an experiment in communism 
as well as in cooking. The idea may 
have first occurred to some Breton good- 
man, or to his thrifty wife, that we can- 
not tell, but a huge black iron pot, known 
as a "Chaudiere", or translating liter- 
ally , as a "hot-pot", was brought out on 
the shore, a fire builded underneath, 
and to it each fisherman was invited to 
bring a contribution, while the farmers 
brought vegetables to add to the flavor 
and quantity, and no doubt the good- 
wives' added such simple seasonings as 
were at their command, and it is certain 
that those who partook brought the best 
seasoning of all, as in the case with our 
modern "chowder parties", hearty appe- 
tites. At all events, this wholesome and 
sufficient meal, prepared in the great 
"hot-pot", became an institution in Brit- 
tany, and, after a time, the utensil used 
in its preparation gave the dish its name. 
Some people have believed that the 
word is derived from that of "Chow- 
chow", meaning "a mixture", and that 
it came to us, first of all, from England, 
but it is undoubtedly of Breton origin 
and took its name from the humble "hot- 
pot" in which it was first cooked. Curi- 
ously, it is seldom mentioned at all in 
English books on cookery, and then usu- 
ally as an "American" dish, but to the 
Americans it certainly came from 
France through some chance settler or 
thrifty Huguenot. 

282 



THE ORIGIN OF CHOWDER 



2.<t.^ 



Though ahiiost every New England 
housewife knows a method of preparing 
it, one that had the warrant of fisher- 
men may be given here, and while the 
same, made with milk in place of water, 
is, perhaps, the most commdn of all 
methods, the latter is the "real chowder" 
of which poor New Yorkers know so 
little! 

For a fish chowder (with clams the 
procedure is the same) the fisherman 
will choose, if possible, a haddock. If 
this is not to be had, he will ask for 
"hake", and, last of all, will he choose 
a cod. A fish of about four pounds is 
an excellent size, and must not be de- 
nuded of the head. In fact, the fisher- 
cook will, if he may, take more than one, 
often several, for he knows that the 
head afifords the glutinous matter which 
adds "body" to the dish. The fish 
cleaned, and freed from the bones, is 
laid aside, while the latter, with the 
heads, are put into a kettle by them- 
selves, and covered with five pints of 
water, boiling hot. The contents of this 
saucepan must be allowed to simmer, 
and simmer only, for one hour, the 
amount of boiling water being kept 
constant in the meantime, and then the 
preparation of the chowder may begin. 
Perhaps, in unconscious tribute to the 
c riginal "chaudiere", the fisherman will 
select for this purpose only a black iron 
pot, which he will first set over the fire 
to heat. He has, to be sure, seen chow- 
ders, so-called, made in tin sauce-pans. 
but of these he will have none. When 
the pot is hot, into it he wnll cut into 
small pieces about one-quarter of a 
pound of salt pork, and with these he 
will fry, gently, to a yellow, not a dark 
brown shade, two or better three or four 
onions, sliced thin. The onion and 



scraps he turns into a bowl wIkii m-jh^. 
and keeps them hot close at hand, while 
the iron "hot-pot" is drawn to one side 
and into it is put a layer of fish, which 
is well-seasoned with salt and pepper, 
and lightly dredged with Hour. Next 
comes a scattering of onion, and a few 
"scraps" with a little of the fat. A layer 
of sliced potatoes follows, and again the 
fat and onion, and so on until potato 
and fish are used. Of sliced potato 
there should be somewhat over a quart 
in slices an eighth of an inch thick. The 
last layer should be of these, and over 
it must be strained the water in which 
the bones and heads were prepared. 
Now the pot is pushed back over the 
fire once more, and allowed to cook 
slowly, always, and without stirring, un- 
til it is found that the potatoes are quite 
done, when the fish will be done, also. 
The fisher-cook will never be induced to 
cook his potatoes first, because he knows 
the sticky mixture that will result will 
be most unpalatable. 

Now the "real chowder" is ready to 
serve ! 

Place eight or ten "P)Oston" crackers, 
or better still, half as many "hard-tack" 
in the bottom of the soup tureen, which 
has been well-heated, and pour over 
them the boiling chowder. 

As has been said, the method is the 
same with clams excepting that, as the 
latter cook far more swiftly than fish, 
the potatoes may be boiled before adding 
to the chovrder. The clam "liquor" 
should be most carefully saved and 
added to the boiling water with which 
the soup is prepared. 

Here you have simply "Fisherman's 
Chowder", and, as that is most certainly 
"the real thing", as such the writer has 
no hesitancy in oflfering it. 




Lazy Living 

By Jessamine Chapman 



WE do not do our own living, 
but strive continually to get 
other people to do it for us. 
Instead of playing games, we go to 
watch other people play them. It is 
much easier to sit in an auto and watch 
others play a lively game of baseball 
than to get out on the field and play 
ourselves ; it is easier to ride out to the 
game in the machine than to walk out 
on the country road ; it is easier still to 
have the chauffeur drive the machine 
than to exert ourselves to run it. In- 
stead of taking out-door exercise and 
enjoying all the thrills of winning a 
game, we hire someone to exercise our 
muscles for us, and, lying in bed, the 
masseur puts us in trim." The effect 
may be nearly as beneficial, but how 
lazy of us to turn the matter of our ex- 
ercise over to a disinterested person and 
become wholly irresponsible ourselves. 
We attend the theatre and watch some- 
one else do the acting. Our emotions 
are aroused; we are thrilled with the 
heroic deeds acted on the stage, but on 
leaving the theatre we do nothing to give 
vent to these emotions and they die with- 
in us. Why would it not be well to 
practice some of the noble deeds in our 
real life? 

We employ a decorator to furnish our 
homes ; we purchase our flowers of the 
florist, instead of raising our own ; we 
buy our vegetables, instead of growing 
them in our own house-gardens ; we .buy 
our clothes, instead of making them; we 
use other people whenever possible to 
satisfy material needs. Some people 
would hire their breathing done for 
them, but for the fear that the other 
person might forget to do it sometimes. 

We get someone else to perform our 
mental gymnastics for us as well as our 
physical exercise. To avoid the mental 
effort necessary to work out a problem, 



a "rule of thumb" is followed blindly. 
A housekeeper hesitates to use a fourth 
of a recipe when a small quantity is 
needed, possibly because she needs to 
find out how much one- fourth of 3 J/2 
teaspoonfuls are. Manuals and cook- 
books were never intended to be used 
without the exertion of some thought, 
judgment, and common sense. What 
queer products have been brought to 
our tables as a result of a lack of mental 
effort. 

We turn over our health to our family 
physician and seem quite irresponsible 
ourselves, if things go wrong. Often a 
little care and thought, simply following 
the laws of hygiene, would prevent 
trouble. Our diet could be regulated so 
that the common ills resulting from lack 
of thought and care on our part could 
be avoided. 

To be sure, there is a law of eco- 
nomics to be considered in living our-, 
own lives. No one questions the ab- 
surdity of becoming a law unto himself 
and living independently of the world 
around him. It would not be wise, of 
course, to revert to the times ' of our 
fore-fathers and produce our own foods, 
manufacture our own clothes, and carry 
on all industries in the home. The 
proper use of the law of conservation of 
energy requires that we use the least 
amount of effort in work and play. The 
trouble is we often use more energy in 
getting things done for us than we 
would use in prforming the task our- 
selves, producing a bad disposition in 
the bargain, while a real exhilaration 
and a satisfaction is the result in the lat- 
ter case. 

There are evils that result from our 
not doing our own living to a greater 
extent. We are active human beings by 
nature. Inactivity breeds unrest, dis- 
content, unhappiness and positive ill 



MODERN HOSPITALITY 



285 



health. To be mentally and physically 
active to the Nth power is almost a sure 
cure for most of the ordinary mental 
and physical aches and pains we endure. 
It is a way of producing a feeling of 
worth. If the neurasthenic could ac- 
quire this feeling, recovery would be 



certain; the dyspeptic would forget his 
troubles, and hundreds of other suffer- 
ers would be happy and contented in the 
enjoyment of the good health they 
should possess. Let us avoid getting too 
lazy to do our own living. Content- 
ment is conditioned on activity. 



Modern Hospitality 

By Mrs. W. B. Williams 



THE last few years have seen a 
marked change in methods of en- 
tertaining. Now^adays a hostess prefers 
to have her parties at a club rather than 
in her own home. This statement ap- 
plies chiefly to women under forty. The 
older generation still clings to the older 
way. 

It is hard to tell what has brought 
about the change. It is not because 
these women live in boarding-houses or 
in cramped quarters, which would make 
home entertaining difficult. They have 
pleasant houses and are adequately — 
some handsomely — provided with silver, 
china and fine linen. Five years ago 
they enjoyed displaying these posses- 
sions. They took pride in setting their 
tables prettily, in concocting new dishes, 
and in inventing unusual sandwiches. 
Now they ask their friends to the club 
to dine or lunch or play cards. I asked 
several acquaintances, why this was. 
One answered, "Oh, it's more fun at the 
club. There's always something going 
on out there." Another replied, 'Tt's so 
much easier", and the third said, 
"Everybody does and besides the club 
couldn't run at all, if we didn't patronize 
it that way." 

IMy own city is not the only place 
where this tendency is seen. It is 
spreading all over the country. A year 
ago I went to visit a sister who lives 
several hundred miles away. W'e were 
invited half a dozen times to lunch, to 



tea and play cards. With one exception 
these parties were given at a club. At 
the end of my visit my sister said. "I'm 
glad you've seen so much of my friends. 
I did want you really to know them." I 
could not hurt her by telling her the 
truth, which was that I did not feel that 
I knew them at all. Only once had I 
been asked to anyone's house, only two 
of them had I seen with their hats off. 

Still more disappointing was a recent 
visit to the town where I lived before 
my marriage. ^ly old friends were most 
cordial. I was asked to this and that, 
and various small parties were given in 
my honor. But I was invited three 
times to tea at a tea-room and only 
twice at a friend's house. Twice I was 
lunched at a hotel and once at a club, 
never at anyone's home. It was a little 
better with the card parties. Three were 
at people's houses and only two at the 
club. Apparently they all thought it 
more of an attention to take me to a 
hotel or club than to ask me to lunch or 
tea at home. Once or twice I tried to 
hjnt that what I really wanted was to 
see them and their children, but they 
did not seem to understand that I 
should have much preferred a lunch of 
herbs in their own dining-rooms to the 
stalled ox in public places. 

It is a pity, for, after all, doesn't true 
hospitality mean askmg your friends to 
sit by your own hearth and to eat at 
vour own table? 



286 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor 



PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR " 

Publication Office : 
372 BoYLSTON Street Boston, Mass. 

Subscription ^1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 

To other Foreign Countries 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the ?tew. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



Child 



ren 



A joyous sound of laughter 

Blown through the gates of morning, 

A gossamer of music. 

(O little frightened whisper, 

And hands that reach for comfort!) 

Glad lips with song upwelling, 
Wide eyes agaze with wonder, 
Hearts tiptoe for adventure. 

(O glance that brands the liar! 
O words of baby wisdom!) 

A rush, a cry, a scurry 

Of playmate seeking playmate; 

A gust of mimic passion. 

(O little lifted faces 
Forever asking, asking!) 

Blown bubbles floating lightly 
That cast no shadow after. 
That mirror only heaven. 

(O clear eyes filled with vision! 
O lips like silent sphinxes!) 

Helen Coale Crew. 



UNREST 

ON every hand it is manifest that we 
are living in an age of unrest. The 
oldtime era of sturdy industry, slow 
gains and moderate fortunes has gone 
by — ris out of fashion. The get-rich- 
quick scheme is everywhere in evidence. 
Not long since the application of steam 
power, lately of electrical power, has 
done much to revolutionize the ways of 
living and, at the same time, multiply the 
wants of people in general. The ques- 
tion is are people more contented and 
happy than they used to be? In a recent 
editorial we note the following: 

''Does material prosperity directly 
work toward contentment and happi- 
ness? Are our rich people the contented 
and thankful ones? The writer of this 
article travelled this winter through the 
whole State of Florida and parts of 
Georgia. Everywhere he found the au- 
tomobile owned by planters and villag- 
ers. His travels in Colorado, Idaho, and 
Utah showed him the same outward evi- 
dences of money acquired, and put into 
what might be called luxuries. His 
summers are spent in a New England 
fishing village. Every house in the place 
is in better condition than it was some 
fifteen years ago: the fishermen are ob- 
taining high prices for lobsters and sea- 
fish, the farmers just back of the village 
have excellent hay crops and obtain 
nearly twice as much per ton as they 
did in the latter part of the last century. 
Yet contentment cannot he found among 
them. Are restlessness and discontent 
becoming American characteristics? Or 
are we really better ofif and happier than 
we seem to be, judging by our talk and 
by our actions?" 

This is good and true and yet, we 
think, the optimist must answer the 
question, yes. No good and suf^cient 
reason appears why people should not 
enjoy a share in the good things of these 
modern days now and here. Wants im- 
ply a possible means of satisfaction. 
Our grandmothers, for instance, did not 



EDITORIALS 



287 



aspire to vote; today we have with us 
not only the progressive woman but also 
the niihtant suffragette. We can not see 
why it is not perfectly just and right for 
women to vote, if they really want to. 
People are likely to get what they seek 
for most earnestly. If women are ready 
and willing to combine and strive dili- 
gently, the right of suffrage will come to 
them in due time. Transition, change 
seems to l)e the law throughout the uni- 
verse. In the midst of the apparent tur- 
moil and confusion of the present day. 
let us not fail to cultivate a cheerful, 
hopeful outlook and remember that all 
thmgs good come to him who patiently 
works and waits. The trend of all prog- 
ress is to increased prosperity and better- 
ment in human life. 

LET JUSTICE BE DONE 

THERE is no one thing that people 
want more in this world than that 
justice be done at all times and every- 
where. And what is justice? Who is 
to decide? We venture to say the word 
is not easily defined. We sometimes 
seek to obtain justice by means of law 
and fail to get it. Perhaps justice might 
be had in the world-wide keeping of the 
Ten Commandments, or in the observ- 
ance by everybody of the one great 
commandment, "Do unto others as you 
would that, etc." \\'e know that the 
conversance of any least violation of 
this rule of conduct produces a feeling 
of resentment — a sense that wron^ has 
been done. 

At any rate, the desire for justice 
seems to be a natural instinct of every 
human being. As far back as our mind 
can recall, ill-treatment of every kind, 
even in case of animals, has been griev- 
ously resented. The sentiment is uni- 
versal. Of course, justice implies in- 
justice, as right implies wrong. W^e can 
not conceive of the one without the 
other. Have you not noticed how great 
wickedness and great piety are apt to be 
closely associated, both in time and place, 
and often in the same individual ? 



Justice, then, we take it, consists in 
doing right, in dealing fairly with our 
neighbor and friend, that is, in the ob- 
servance of the golden rule, in accord-- 
ance with which individual and social 
affairs should be conducted. In short, 
justice is strictly a matter of morality 
and character. We want justice to pre- 
vail always, and any failure therein is 
ever the source of bitter disappointment 
and sense of injury. ''Above all things," 
some one has said, *'is justice. Success 
is a good thing; wealth is good also; 
honor is better, but justice excels them 
all." Fiat jiistitia, mat coelnm. 



GRACEFUL LEAVE-TAKING 



H 



OW thankful I would have been in 
my first girlish attempts at call- 
ing had some tactful relative or friend 
coached me a little in the art of taking 
leave when the time to go had come! 
Looking back now it seems almost ludi- 
crous that this simple matter should 
have been such a bug-a-boo ; but such it 
surely was ! 

It probably arose from my having 
made one awkward going, this causing 
me to expect and dread a similar blun- 
der. A young girl once conscious of an 
awkwardness is so supremely miserable 
over it ! 

But observation tells me that others — 
not always young girls either — dread the 
moment of leave-taking. If you don't 
believe it. watch the average woman — 
one who does not make a study of so- 
ciety — put of¥ her going, the various at- 
tempts she makes at it before really get- 
ting away, her stupid lingering near the 
door, her platitudes and repetitions. 

How wearisome and invariable is her 
"Now come soon" etc! 

Perhaps we all need to get it into our 
heads that the best leave-taking is sivift, 
gracious and cordial. 

Let the beginner plan a bit beforehand, 
and follow some such "formula" as this: 
Before the conversation begins to drag, 
just in an interesting place if possible, 
let her rise, while she herself is speak- 



288 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



ing, adding impulsively to the sentence 
"But I must be going!" 

If there is a friendly smile upon her 
face and a real cordiality in her tone, 
the hostess will feel that she has enjoyed 
the little visit without any trite remark 
to that effect, though she may say naively 
'T am glad I came" or *T am so glad to 
have found you at home". Then if she 
moves rapidly toward the door, there is 
little chance for awkwardness in word 
or deed, and if not too abruptly done, 
this is apt to be both graceful and nat- 
ural. It saves the hostess as well as the 
guest. 

Protracted leave-taking is one of the 
most trying things in social life, and it 
is so common a fault that I would we 
could start a reform. Anyone guilty of 
it needs to try this plan of swift and 
cordial going until it has become a habit. 
Then calling will be no longer the bore 
it is so often to hostess and guest. 

L. M. 



The woman of tomorrow will not dif- 
fer from the woman of yesterday in fem- 
ininity or physique or capacity in her 
charm for men or in her love of children, 
but in the response of her eternally fem- 
inine nature to a changed environment. 
Today woman is beginning to be edu- 
cated for the new era, and man must go 
with her. She is learning home-making 
with new implements and new opportun- 
ities. She need no longer be a drudge, 
and she must not continue to be a doll. 
The new mother, alert to the larger needs 
of her household, is more competent than 
her grandmamma, and even supplant 
"the tired businessman" in municipal 
housekeeping until he can be her equal 
and himself deserve the suffrage. — 
Charles Zueblin. 



Let us beware of losing our enthu- 
siasm. Let us ever glory in something, 
and strive .to retain our admiration for 
all that would ennoble, and our interest 
in all that would enrich and beautify our 
lives. — Phillip Brooks. 



"The assertion that no man is indis- 
pensable in any good cause offers a 
wholesome lesson. No matter how use- 
ful a man is, the fear that the cause he 
is enlisted in would go to the dogs with- 
out him is a specious tribute to him. 
The best usefulness is in strengthening 
the things that remain as men come and 
go. The man who pretends otherwise 
is a sham, and the people who foster in 
him this delusion of egotism, mere idol- 
worshippers." 



"There are some differences, or rather 
some people who hold such differences, 
which bring about personal alienation 
and bitterness. It is thought that the 
way out of such division is an imagined 
time when matters will be decided and 
all be united in the one right way. 
What a time that will be, how dull and 
saltless, how empty of prospect, is not 
considered. And, even if it be enter- 
tained, such a hope does not mend the 
present situation. What we need is a 
modus vivendi. The secret of getting 
on in some sort of harmony does not 
lie in determining differences, but in 
managing them. They must be made 
aseptic : no poison of temper will be 
defensible. The freedom of opinion one 
uses must be fully conceded to others. 
Credit must be given for sincerity, and 
every possible inch of common ground 
must be recognized. And if a sense of 
humor is kept tingling, the thing is 
done." 



We are not here to play, to dream, to 
drift. We have hard work to do, and 
loads to lift. Shun not the struggle; 
face it. 'Tis God's gift. Say not the 
days are evil — who's to blame? And 
fold the hands and acquiesce — O shame ! 
Stand up, speak out, and bravely, in 
God's name. It matters not how deep 
entrenched the wrong, How hard the 
battle goes, the day how long. Faint not, 
fight on! Tomorrow comes the song. — 
Maltbie Davenport Babcock. 



.^^m 


^ 






t^-»^ 'sl^^^^^l. 




^3R; 


»»^". 


^^^^^ra^Mto'*'^ 








21^—^ 


i^^ 



ROAST TURKEY — GARNISH: SAUSAGE AND CELERY LEAVES 

Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful. 



Crusts of Deviled Chicken Livers 

SPREAD oval-shaped bits of toast 
(two by two and one-half inches) 
or bread, buttered and browned 
in the oven, with cooked chicken, goose 
or turkey livers, pressed through a sieve 
and seasoned very high with cayenne, 
mustard, a few grains of curry, tabasco 
sauce, salt and a few drops of onion 
juice; above dispose a stoned olive, 
stuffed with pimentos. Fine-chopped 
truffle or two or three figures, cut from 
sliced truffles, may replace the olives. 
Puff-paste may replace the toast. The 
paste may be baked over little tins or in 
a sheet. Baked in a sheet, it must be cut 
in portions while hot. 

Oyster Soup, Tomato 

Pour three cups of cold water over 
three pints of oysters, look them over 
carefully to remove bits of shell and 
wash or rinse them in the water. Strain 



the water and oyster liquor through a 
folded cheese-cloth and let heat to the 
boiling point ; skim, then add the oysters 
and again heat to the boiling point ; strain 
out the oysters and set aside to use in 
croquettes, salad, or for a creamed dish 
of oysters. Melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter or dripping, and in it cook three 
tablespoonfuls of raw lean ham, chopped 
fine, half a small onion, half a small 
carrot, a piece of green or red pepper 
pod and a stalk of celery, chopped fine ; 
stir and cook until softened and yel- 
lowed ; add three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and cook until the flour is absorbed ; add 
a cup and a half of tomatoes and let boil 
ten or fifteen minutes ; add a cup of 
chicken broth and strain into the hot 
oyster broth. Season as needed with 
salt and pepper ; skim and it is ready to 
serve. 

Cream of Cauliflower Soup 

Cook two small cauliflower in boiling 



289 



290 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A PRIZE SQUASH 



salted water until tender and press 
through a fine sieve (use a pestle) into 
the water in which the cauliflower was 
cooked. Scald three cups of milk in a 
double boiler; mix a tablespoonful of 
potato flour with milk and stir into the 
hot milk and continue to stir until the 
milk thickens, then cover and let cook 
fifteen minutes. In the meantime add 
three cups of chicken broth, flavored with 
the usual soup vegetables, to the cauli- 
flower puree and liquid and heat to the 
boiling point ; add to the mixture in the 
double boiler; add also a cup of cream 
and salt and pepper as is needed. Two 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch or fine tap- 
ioca may be used to thicken this soup. 



in one quart of oysters, carefully drained, 
cover and let heat to the boiling point. 
Uncover the dish, from time to time, 
lest it boil over. Remove the oysters 
and discard the tough muscle. Pour the 
liquid from the blazer and wash the 
blazer; in it melt two level tablespoon- 
fuls of butter; in this cook two level 
tablespoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pep- 
per — black and paprika mixed; add one 
cup of the liquid and stir until boiling, 
then add one cup of cream and when 
again boiling add the oysters and let 
cook until hot throughout. Set the hot 
water pan (with boiling water) in place 
and stir in a tablespoonful of butter, 




ROUND STEAK IN INDIVIDUAL CASSEROLES 



Oysters, Baltimore Style creamed and mixed with the yolks of 

two eggs, and additional seasoning if 
Scald two cups of Sauterne in the needed. Stir until the egg is "set" then 
blazer of a chafing dish ; when hot put serve at once. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



291 




BONED LEG OF LAMB STUDDED WITH HAM 



Round Steak en Casserole 

Cut round steak in pieces about two 
inches square and let brown in salt-pork 
fat or dripping. Remove to a casserole, 
and add broth to cover. Add more fat 
to the pan and in it brown a small 
blanched onion for each service ; add 
these to the casserole, cover and let cook 
about two hours or until nearly tender; 
add, for each service, two small strips 
of carrot and half a dozen cubes or balls 
of potato, parboiled and browned in the 
frying pan, also salt and pepper as 



Boned Leg of Lamb Studded with 
Ham 

Bone a leg of lamb. Fill the center 
with bread dressing, seasoned with onion 
and green pepper. Sew the leg into good 
shape. Cut raw ham into strips an inch 
long and one-third of an inch thick. 
With a pointed knife make small in- 
cisions in regular rows over both sides of 
the meat and into these press the strips 
of ham. In the pan of a double roaster 
put the fat from the ham, chopped fine, 
and two or three tablespoonfuls of drip- 




EGGS SHIRRED, WITH TOMATO 



needed, and let cook until the vegetables 
are tender. Serve in individual casser- 
oles made hot in boiling water. 



ping; when hot put in the lamb, two 
onions and two carrots, sliced, also three 
branches of parsley and a part of a 



292 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



"spice (or soup) bag." Set over the fire 
and let all brown, turning as needed to 
brown uniformly. Pour over about a 
quart of hot beef or veal broth, or half 
and half of each. Set the pan in the 
covered receptacle and let cook in a slow 
oven about three hours. Remove the 
meat to a hot dish, strain off the hquid, 
season as needed and serve in a sauce 
boat. The sauce may be thickened with 
flour made smooth in water, if desired. 

Bread Dressing for Boned Lamb 

or for Stuffing Chicken or 

Turkey 

Crumble stale bread, freed of crust, by 
rubbing it through a colander. To two 



Cover the neck and giblets (liver, 
gizzard and heart) of a fowl with boil- 
ing water, heat to the boiling point, then 
let simmer until tender. Chop the giblets 
fine, removing all bits of gristle. Pour 
off the fat from the baking pan to leave 
but two or three tablespoonfuls in the 
pan ; add three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and stir and cook until absorbed ; add 
about one cup and a half of broth (in 
which the giblets were cooked) and stir 
until boiling. Let boil six minutes. Add 
the chopped giblets and the sauce i^ 
ready to serve. 

Eggs Shirred with Tomatoes 

Press cooked tomato through a sieve. 





^^^^H 






^^^^^^B^C^^^IP^ 9Py^ 


PI^^H 




S^^H 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS, CAULIFLOWER, CABBAGE AND KOHL RABl 



cups (well pressed down) add half a 
cup of melted butter, one or two table- 
spoonfuls of fine-chopped green or red 
pepper, one tablespoonful of parsley, 
about a teaspoonful of onion pulp 
(scraped from an onion cut in halves) a 
teaspoonful of crushed thyme and half a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and black pep- 
per. Mix all together thoroughly. 

Giblet Sauce for Roast Fowl 



about three tablespoonfuls will be needed 
for each tgg to be served. Scrape in a 
little onion pulp and add a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley with salt and pepper 
to season. Let simmer until the pulp is 
well reduced. Put a little of the puree 
in the bottom of an egg-shirrer, break in 
a fresh tgg, shake a little salt and pep- 
per over the white of the egg, then turn 
over it a tablespoonful or more of the 
prepared tomato, also a tablespoonful of 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



293 



grated cheese or a sprinkling of fine- 
chopped truffle. Let cook in the oven 
until the egg is *'set." Serve at once in 
the shirring dishes. 



salt, fine-chopped parsley, a few drops 
of onion-juice or a grating of nutmeg. 
Stir the mixture over ice-water until it 
begins to thicken, then fold in the 




MOUSSE DE POULETTE, WITH SALAD 



Mousse de Poulette Salad 

For seven timbale molds take half a 
cup of double cream, beaten firm, half a 
level tablespoonful of gelatine, softened 
in three tablespoonfuls of chicken broth, 
half a cup of highly-seasoned chicken 
broth, the beaten yolk of an egg, one or 
two truffles, and three-fourths a cup of 
fine-chopped, cooked chicken breast. 
Scald the broth, dilute the yolk with a 
little of the broth, then stir into the rest 
of the broth ; stir and cook until thick- 
ened a little ; add the softened gelatine, 
stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then 
add the chicken and such additional sea- 
soning as is desired, salt, pepper, celery 



whipped cream, also the trimmings from 
the truffles, chopped fine. Before begin- 
ning the dish, or while the mixture is 
cooling, cut the truffles in thin slices and 
then in fancy shapes. Take them on the 
point of a larding needle, one by one. 
dip into a little dissolved gelatine and set 
them in place on the bottom and sides of 
the molds. When the mousse is un- 
molded (dip into zvarm water) garnish 
with celery, lettuce, endive, cress or tiny 
string beans, seasoned with French 
dressing. In the illustration, endive and 
cress were seasoned with French dress- 
ing, then sprinkled with minute pearl 
onions. 





.,.. 1 


^M 











RICE CAKES. WITH HOXEY SYRUP 



294 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Rice Cakes 



Put about three pints of cold water 
over three-fourths a cup of rice, stir 
with a silver fork and let heat to the 
boiling point over a quick fire ; let boil 
three or four minutes, pour into a sieve 
and let cold water run through the rice 
to blanch it. Put the blanched rice into 
a double-boiler with about three cups of 
milk. Let cook, undisturbed, until the 
rice is tender and the milk is absorbed. 
Add a scant teaspoonful of salt when 
about half cooked. Turn the rice on a 
shallow dish. When cooled enough to 
handle shape into round, flat cakes, three- 
fourths an inch thick, pat them in flour 
on each side, then saute in hot salt-pork 
fat until nicely browned, first on one 
side and then on the other. Serve at 
breakfast or supper with 



a batter; beat until smooth, then cover 
and set aside to become light. Add one 
whole egg and a yolk (or three yolks) j 
one-fourth a cup of sugar, one-fourth a 
cup of melted shortening, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and flour to make a 
dough that may be kneaded. Knead un- 
til smooth and elastic. Cover and set 
aside (out of drafts) to become double 
in bulk. When light divide into about 
eighteen pieces of the same size ; shape 
these into balls, dispose on the kneading 
board, cover with one or more earthen 
mixing bowls and let stand to become 
very light. Roll each ball into a rec- 
tangular sheet about one-fourth an inch 
thick ; as soon as one is rolled spread it 
with almond cream, then roll like a jelly 
roll. Join the ends securely, to form a 
ring on the pan. Let stand again to be- 
come very light. Brush over with the 




BISMARCK RINGS 



Honey Syrup 

Boil two cups of granulated sugar and 
one cup of boiling water, washing down 
and covering the saucepan as in making 
fondant, about six minutes. Add four 
tablespoonfuls of strained honey. Serve 
cold. 

Bismarck Rings 

Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk; mix and add to one cup of milk, 
scalded and cooled to a lukewarm tem- 
perature. Stir in enough flour to make 



yolk of an tgg, beaten and mixed with 
one or two tablespoonfuls of milk. 
Slash each roll in several places. Bake 
about twenty-five minutes. Serve with 
coffee or cocoa. These are good reheated. 

Almond Cream Filling 

Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in two ounces 
(one-fourth cup) of almond paste, then 
one-fourth a cup of sugar and one egg 
or two yolks and use to spread the Bis- 
marck Rings. 

Pineapple Souffle 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



295 



Bake a loaf of sponge cake in the 
usual round pan with feet or in a rec- 



omit the yolks from the meringue and 
use them in a boiled custard to ser\ c 




PINEAPPLE SOUFFLE 



tangular pan of larger size. Leave a 
narrow rim or edge and cut the center 
from the cake to make a hollffw case. 
On the bottom of the case spread a layer 
of canned, grated pineapple. The pine- 
apple may be used as it is, or, it may be 
reheated with half a cup of sugar and 
the juice of the half lemon, left from the 
cake, and then chilled. Beat the whites 
of three eggs dry and the yolks until 
very light and thick. Gradually beat 
one-third a cup of sugar into the yolks, 
then beat in one cup of sifted cake 
crumbs (the cake cut from the center 
pressed through a sieve) and carefully 
fold in the whites of the eggs. Spread 
part of this mixture over the pineapple 
and pipe the rest above it. Dredge with 
granulated sugar and let cook from fif- 
teen to twenty minutes in a moderate 
oven. Serve hot or cold. Eor a change. 



around the cake. One pint of milk, one- 
third a cup of sugar, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract are the other ingredi- 
ents for the custard. The custard should 
be served cold. 

Maple-and-Walnut Bavariose 

Beat one cup and a half of cream until 
quite firm throughout. Scald one cup 
of maple syrup ; beat the yolks of three 
eggs ; add a little of the syrup and when 
well-blended return to the syrup in the 
boiler ; stir and cook until thickened 
slightly, then add one-fourth a package 
of gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup 
of cold water ; stir until the gelatine is 
dissolved, then strain over half a cup of 
nut meats in a dish of ice-water. Stir 
until the mixture begins to thicken, then 
fold in the cream and turn into a mold. 




MAPLE-AND-WALNUT BAVARIOSE 



296 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



When unmolded sprinkle with chopped and let bake until done. As soon as 
nuts. taken from the oven cut into strips about 







Sfefc^ 


IT ^ 




I^BHaariMUBJi^^^^HHjS^v^.^ 


ft.: .^H 




HRmI^^^^^^^^I^^^'*: ; 


■fl 


iS^BsHiSss^^^^^M 


^^^S^^BUi 


W 


^^Hr^^SS^^^^BHNNB^B 


SsBH^p 


1 


^!^*i^S^ 


—^^^^f^^^^StK^^^ 








'■ 


-' 'V ^ 





MARLBORO TART 



Marlboro Tart 



Line a large pie plate (agate is prefer- 
able) with pastry; with pastry j agger 
cut off long strips, a scant half-inch in 
width, of flaky or puff paste. Mix to- 
gether two cups of grated apple, the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon, one 
cup and a half of sugar, two eggs, beaten 
without separating the whites and yolks, 
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one- 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup of 
thin cream. Turn into the plate lined 
with pastry, wet the edge, and set the 
strips of pastry over the top of the filling 
in two directions. Finish with a strip of 
paste on the edge. Let bake until firm 
in the center. 

Napoleons 

Roll flaky or puff paste into a sheet 
one-fourth an inch thick and cut to fit 
square or oblong biscuit pans. Prick 
these with a fork, brush over with 
beaten yolk of ^g%, diluted with milk. 



three inches long and one inch and a 
half wide. Three pieces of paste form 
one service; put fruit jelly (currant, 
quince, apple, etc.) or orange or lemon 
curd on the lower bit of paste, whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored, or cream 
cake filling, on the second layer, and con- 
fectioner's frosting, white or chocolate, 
on the last layer. 

Cream Cake Filling 

Scald one pint of milk; sift together 
half a cup, each, of sugar and flour; add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, dilute 
with a little of the hot milk and when 
evenly blended, stir into the rest of the 
hot milk ; stir until the mixture thickens, 
cover and let cook ten minutes. Beat 
two eggs ; add one-fourth a cup of sugar 
and beat again, then stir into the hot 
mixture; let cook two or three minutes, 
until the ^gg is set. When nearly cold 
and ready to use, beat in half a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla extract. Of course, other 
flavors could be used. 




NAPOLEONS 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



297 



Confectioner's Frosting 

Into one-fourth a cup of boiling water 
or hot sugar syrup stir sifted confec- 
tioner's sugar to make a frosting that is 
stiff enough to remain in place, yet liq- 
uid enough to run smooth. Flavor to 
taste. Use vanilla with chocolate. The 
chocolate should be melted and added 
with the sugar. 

Salted Filberts or Hazel Nuts 

Boil the shelled nuts in water about 
five minutes, drain, add .cold water and 
slip off the skin. Let dry a little, then 
moisten each with white of egg, slightly 
beaten, sprinkle with salt and let color 
very delicately in the oven. 

Cranberry Sauce 

Heat two cups, each, of sugar and 
water to the boiling point. Add one 
quart of cranberries. Cover the sauce- 
pan and let stand on the back of the 
range five minutes ; move to the front of 
the range and let cook five minutes after 
boiling begins. Set the sauce aside, cov- 
ered, in the saucepan, until cold. 

Cranberry Jelly 

Cook one quart of cranberries and one 
cup of water in a covered dish five or 
IX minutes. With a pestle press the 
mixture through a fine gravy strainer 
(fitted into part of a double-boiler). At 
once stir in tv/o cups of sugar and, with- 
out reheating in the least, pour into a 
mold or dish. 

Cauliflower a la Huntington 

Cook the cauliflower in rapidly boiling 
water until just tender; separate into 
flowerets and pour the following sauce 
over them. Beat the yolks of four eggs ; 
add one teaspoonful and a half of mus- 
tard, one teaspoonful and a fourth of 
salt, one teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika, and 
one-fourth a cup of olive oil, and mix all 



together thoroughly. Have ready half a 
cup of weak vinegar, in which a slice of 
onion has been infused ; add to the tgg 
mixture and stir constantly while cook- 
ing over hot water until thickened 
slightly ; remove from the fire and beat 
in two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a 
tablespoon ful of curry-powder and one 
teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley that 
have been creamed together. 

Cauliflower jNIustard Pickle 

Let a fair-sized cauliflower stand, head 
downward, in salted water an hour ; 
break the flowerets apart and trim the 
stems neatly. Cover with boiling water 
and let cook about six minutes ; drain in 
a colander, then pack into a fruit jar. 
For one jar, put over the fire a scant 
quart of vinegar. Mix together one- 
fourth a cup of mustard, one-third a 
cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of yel- 
low ginger, one teaspoonful of tumeric, 
and one tablespoonful and a half of 
flour; pour a little of the hot vinegar 
over the seasonings and mix to a smooth 
consistency, then stir into the rest of the 
hot vinegar; stir until boiling and let 
simmer ten minutes ; stir in one table- 
spoonful of olive oil and pour over the 
cauliflower in the jar. A tablespoonful 
of white mustard seed and half a table- 
spoonful of celery seed may be added to 
the jar as the cauliflower is put in. 
Other vegetables, as Brussels sprouts, 
button onions, slices of green tomato or 
thick slices of cucumber may be prepared 
by the same recipe. A mixture of sev- 
eral kinds of vegetables is often pre- 
ferred. 

Ginger-IMint Punch 

Pound a bunch of fresh mint; add 
one cup and a half of sugar and the 
juice of six lemons. Let this stand cov- 
ered and in a cool place over night. 
Strain off the liquid and, when ready to 
serve, add three bottles of ginger ale. 
This provides for sixteen punch glasses. 



Menus for a Week in November 



Breakfast 

Broiled Ham 

Baked Potatoes Dry Toast 

Rice Cakes, Hone}^ Syrup, Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Browned Crackers 

Roast Chicken, Bread Dressing 

Giblet Sauce Cranberry Sauce 

Sweet Pickled Ripe Cucumbers 

Mashed Potatoes Squash 

Marlboro Tart, Coffee 

Supper 

Smoked Herring Celery 

Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches 

Mustard Pickles , Tea 



Breakfast 

Haddock and Mashed Potato Cakes 

(sauted) 

Mustard Pickles 

Dry Toast Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Round Steak in Individual Casseroles 
Macedoine of Vegetables in Tomato Jelly, 

French Dressing 

Prunes Stuffed with Nuts, Whipped Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Deviled Crabs Olives 

Parker House Rolls Ginger Snaps 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Creamed Salt Codfish 

Corn Meal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Tomato Soup 

Chicken Souffie 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, Vanilla Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Potato Salad Sardines 

Baking Powder Biscuit 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Smoked Beef 

Baked Potatoes 

Rice Griddle Cakes, Honey Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Studded with Ham 

Franconia Potatoes 

Okra, Tomato Sauce Baked Bananas 

Squash Pie Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Puffed Baked Potatoes with Paprika 

Smoked Beef Bread and Butter 

Sliced Apples Baked in Bean Pot 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Bacon, Broiled, Baked Apples 

Cold Cereal, Fried 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fresh Haddock, Be led 

Egg Sauce Boiled Potatoes 

Philadelphia Relish or Cabbage Salad 

Apple Pie Checie 

Coffee 

Supper 

Fresh Beef Tongue, Boiled (Cold) 

HomxC Canned String Beans, French 

Dressing with Onion juice 

Bread and Butter 

Hermits Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

French Omelet 

Fried Potatoes, German Fashion 

Dutch Apple Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Tomato Rabbit 
Sweet Apples, Baked 

Cream and Sugar 

Bread and Butter 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Dinner 

Scalloped Oysters 

Celery-and-Xut Salad Yeast Biscuit 

Baba, Grape Juice Syrup 

Tea 



Breakfast Luncheon Dinner 

Cereal, Thin Cream Baked Beans ^Tolfed^c"a'^er sLucT"^ 

Salt Mackerel, Cooked in ]\Iilk Hot Boston Brown Bread Boiled Potatoes 

White Hashed Potatoes French Pickle or Tomato Catsup Boiled Turnips Celery 

Corn Meal Muffins Chocolate ficlairs Bakec Apple Taoioca 

Coffee Cocoa Half Cups of Coffee , , ^ Puddmg 

' Junket Ice Cream 

298 



Tea 



Inexpei 



nsive Menus for a Week 

(For Institutions) 
(Luncheon at Noon by Request) 

// any article of food disagrees, it is better to reduce the quantity of it taken, than to 



cut it out of the dietary altogether. 
( Breakfast 

Bacon, Apple Sauce 

Fried Mush, Syrup Bread and Butter 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Round Steak en Casserole 

(potatoes, onions, carrots) 

Celery Hearts Hot Apple Pie Cheese 



Tea 
Supper 

Hot Boiled Rice, Sugar, 
Drop Cookies 
Cocoa 



Milk 



.roth) 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Milk Doughnuts 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

^^lacaroni Italien (cheese, tomatoes, 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Grapes and Apples 

Dinner 

Fish Soup (with tomatoes, etc) 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Mashed Potatoes 

Squash Philadelphia Relish 

Cornstarch Blancmange, Sugar, Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Ready to Eat Cereal 

Creamed Salt Codfish on Toast 

Chopped Pickles Corn Meal Muffins 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Dried Lima Beans, Stewed 

Yeast Biscuit 

Mince Pie or 

Cream Cake (pie) Chocolate Frosting 

Tea 

Dinner 

Forequarter of Lamb, Boiled, 

Caper Sauce 

Turnips Potatoes 

Rice Pudding with Raisins 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Bacon Fried Potatoes 

German Apple Cake, Sugar, Cream, 

Coffee 

Luncheon ^ 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Hot Baked Apples 

Drop Cookies 

Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Oniops 

Cranberry Pie 

(Mock Cherry) 

Coffee 



Breakfast 

Hashed Lamb, Potatoes and Green Peppers 

Griddle Cakes, Caramel Syrup 

Dry Toast 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Cheese Croutons 

(Sliced bread, buttered, slivers of cheese 

above, made hot in oven) 

Apple Sauce 

Tea 

Dinner 

Boned White Fish, Baked, 

Bread Dressing Draw^n Butter Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes Stewed Tomatoes 

Steamed Fig Pudding, Hard Sauce or 

Blushing Apples with Cream 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Glazed Currant Buns 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Creamed Celery on Toast, 

Soft Scrambled Eggs above 

Tapioca Custard Pudding, 

Vanilla Sauce 

Tea 

Dinner 

Salt I\Iackerel Cooked in Milk 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Onions 

Canned Beets, Pickled 

Apple Dumpling, Butter, Syrup 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Creamed Dried Beef 



Luncheon 

Hot Cheese Pudding 
White Hashed Potatoes (thin sliced cheese, thin squares of bread, 

eggs, milk) 

Canned String Beans, French Dressing 

Coffee or Prune Jelly, 

Cream, Sugar 

Tea 



Zwiebach 
Coffee 



Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef 

Franconia Potatoes 

Creamed Cabbage 

Cottage Pudding 

Foamv Sauce, Coffee 



299 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners 



Dinner for Large Family 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

(thickened slightly with tapioca) 

Celery Melon Mangoes 

Roast Turkey, Giblet Sauce 

Scalloped Oysters 

Cranberry Sauce 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style, en Casserole 

Mashed Potatoes 

Buttered Onions 

Cauhflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Pumpkin Pie 

Marlboro Tart 

Ginger Ice Cream 

Maple Sugar Bonbons 

Salted Butternuts 

Coffee 

Dinner in the Country 

Oyster Soup 

Celery Pickles 

Roast Turkey, Bread Dressing, Giblet Sauce 

Baked Ham 

Cranberry Sauce Apple Sauce 

Squash 

Onions with Cream 

Mashed Turnips 

Pumpkin Pie Canned Peach Pie 

' Raspberry Ice Cream 

Fruit Nuts 

Coffee 



Dinner in the City 

Consomme 

Olives Celery Salted Filberts 

Turbans of Halibut, Baked, en Casserole 

Potato Balls with Parsley 

Hot House Cucumbers 

Fresh Mushrooms on Toast, Algonquin Style 

Roast Turkey, Sweet Pickle Jelly with 

Maraschino Cherries 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Fashion 

Squash, Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Wild Duck 

Celery-and-Orange Salad 

Pumpkin Pie 

Sultana Roll, Claret Sauce 

Bonbons Assorted Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 

^Dinner in an Institution 

Boiled Fresh Codfish, Pickle Sauce 

Celery 

Roast Turkey, Bread Dressing 

Pork Sausage Cakes, Giblet Sauce 

Cranberry Sauce 

Mashed Potato 

Squash Buttered Onions 

Pumpkin Pie 

Bread Pudding (with preserves and meringue) 

Caramel Ice Cream 

Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 



Dinners for Two 



I. 



Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce 

Oysters Scalloped in Egg Shirrers 

(half pint) 

]\Iashed Potatoes Squash 

Celery Cranberry Jelly 

Individual Charlotte Russe 

(Maple with Nuts) 

Coffee 

II. 

Fried Oysters (half pint) 

Celery Olives 

Chicken Pie 

Cranberry Sauce 

Candied Sweet Potatoes Onions 

Pumpkin Pie 

Cheese 

Bonbons 

Coffee 



300 




Points on the Preparation of the Thanksgiving Dinner 



THE selection and preparation of 
the food for the Thanksgiving 
dinner is a matter of varying 
interest in American households, but it 
is the only meal of the year that, in its 
general makeup, is fundamentally the 
same throughout the land. 

For the main dish of the dinner fowl 
of some kind is considered de riguenr. 
Trussing the fowl, to be baked or 
roasted, into a compact shape, frequent 
basting with hot fat, undiluted with 
water or similar liquid, followed by 
dredging with flour, and cooking — after 
the initial searing over — at a very mod- 
erate heat, for a proper length of time, 
are the main points upon which a suc- 
cessfully cooked fowl depends. 

The time of cooking varies wnth the 
age and size of the fowl. A young ten- 
pound turkey calls for three hours of 
oven heat ; a chicken of about four 
pounds needs one hour and a half to 
two hours of cooking. Dry, tasteless 
wings, legs and second joints are the 
sure results of too hot an oven. As a 
rule cooking is carried on at too high a 
temperature. 

For bread dressing let the bread be 
stale ; moisten with melted butter and use 
nothing further of a liquid character ; 
milk, stock, water or eggs make a com- 
pact, dense dressing, not easy of diges- 
tion. Thyme is the proper sweet herb for 
the dressing with fowl ; reserve sage for 
pork and geese, and sweet basil for fish. 
For a change try poultry seasoning — a 
mixture of sweet herbs and spices — put 
up for this special purpose. Following 



tradition many housekeepers wish to in- 
troduce oysters into the Thanksgiving 
dinner, and so add them to the dressing 
for the turkey. This is a mistake, for 
the cooking is necessarily too prolonged 
for anything as delicate as an oyster. It 
were better to present the oysters in 
soup or scalloped. Oyster croquettes 
might be essayed, but these are the work 
of an artist and will rarely be attempted 
by ordinary cooks. 

Egg-shirrers in the brown earthen 
ware, now so plentiful and inexpensive, 
offer an attractive means of serving 
scalloped oysters, individually. Here, 
again, the crumbs should be moistened 
with melted butter, without the addition 
of water or other liquid, and the cook- 
ing should not be prolonged. Send from 
the oven after the family are seated at 
the table. If the family be large, and 
the turkey be carved at the table, the 
oysters, in individual dishes, may be put 
into the oven just as the turkey is taken 
out; they will be light, puffy, browned 
on top and boiling at the edges by the 
time the turkey, vegetables and giblet 
sauce are served. 

In some country places partridge are 
a possibility, for the Thanksgiving din- 
ner. Tlfe naturally dry flesh is nuich 
improved, if the birds be filled with a 
dressing of a largely fatty nature ; salt 
pork, bacon or butter may supply the 
fat. Salt pork, chopped coarse, may be 
used, alone. Shake the remnants from 
the birds before sending to table. 

Cranberry sauce and cranberry jelly 
are given in our seasonable recipes. For 



301 



302 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



occasional use one may select either, but 
for common, every day and day-after- 
day consumption the sauce is preferable. 
For jelly sugar is mixed into the hot 
pulp and the whole, without cooking, 
is turned at once into a mold to set. For 
sauce, "the sugar is cooked with the cran- 
berries, and the high degree of heat, in 
c n junction with the acid of the berries, 
inverts the sugar and thus, in a measure, 
predigests it. 

In making jelly, the cooked berries are 
pressed through a sieve. Set the strainer 
— a perforated tin sheet in a tin, dipper- 
like frame — in part of a double boiler of 
suitable size, then use a pestle. With 
these utensils the pulp is quickly and 
thoroughly pushed through the sieve 
into the boiler below ; with a wire sieve 
and a wooden spoon only a little pulp 
can be pushed through the sieve, the 
process is laborious and, eventually, the 
flame is pulled from the sieve. The 
same thing results, when an attempt is 
made to secure purees of vegetables, fish 
or meat with these latter utensils. 
Every woman who makes a cream soup, 
even once a month, should provide her- 
self with a wooden pestle and a proper 
strainer. With suitable appliances cook- 
ing is a delight, without them it is un- 
satisfactory drudgery and a strain on the 
nerves. 

\^egetables are largely in evidence on 
the Thanksgiving dinner table. All 
boiled vegetables should be removed 
from the water the instant they are 
cooked. Onions and vegetables of the 
cabbage family are more digestible, if 
the cooking be discontinued while the 
vegetables are still slightly crisp. It is, 
also, well for those with whom these 
vegetables seem to disagree, to remem- 
ber that one onion or floweret of cauli- 
flower may be eaten without inconven- 
ience to the digestive system and even 
with positive advantage, when a second 
onion or bit of cauliflower would de- 
range the working of the system. 

As a green vegetable, to serve with 
the turkey, neatly trimmed heads and 



roots (unharmed by nails) of choice 
celery, cut in lengthwise halves or quar- 
ters, will be enjoyed by almost everyone. 
If a dressed vegetable be preferred, 
green or red peppers, in narrow shreds, 
rright be mixed with shredded celery. 
No dressing other than a simple French 
mixture is suitable for this occasion. 

Pastry in some form is usually given a 
place in a Thanksgiving dinner. Keep 
in mind that the best pastr}^ (p^iff) calls 
for equal weights of flour and short- 
ening. Plain pastry is made with short- 
ening equal to half the weight of the 
flour; flaky paste calls for any propor- 
tion between the two. By measure, two 
cups of flour or one cup of shortening 
equals half a pound. With these pro- 
portions in mind, one who can use a 
rolling pin with a light hand ought to 
be able to provide fair pastry for the 
Thanksgiving pies. Pastry may be 
mixed with advantage a day or two in 
advance, but leave the final putting to- 
gether of paste and filling into pies un- 
til the day on which they are to be eaten. 
For pies with two crusts, let the paste, 
both under and upper, lie loosely on the 
plate, and extend one-fourth an inch 
beyond it. When filled brush over the 
edge of the lower crust with cold water 
and press the edge of the upper crust 
upon it. Do not press them down upon 
the plate. Pastry shrinks in baking and, 
when the pie is baked, the crust will be 
inside the plate. 

The matter of decoration suitable to 
the Thanksgiving table has been called 
to our attention. Fruit with autumn 
leaves, hop blossoms, clematis or milk- 
weed seeds are eminently suitable for 
this purpose. Parsley is in its glory at 
this season. Some of the thick mossy 
varieties have a silvery look that makes 
them exceedingly attractive. As a bor- 
der for a handsome silver tray of autumn 
fruits nothing could be more satisfactory 
and appropriate than this or any other 
variety of parsley. Failing this, Hght 
and dark plum.es of celery would not be 
amiss. 



Suggestions From Soyer 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



FOR those who were not in the 
large cities, visited recently by 
Nicolas Soyer, the great chef, 
and grandson of the famous food ex- 
pert, writer, and philanthropist, chef to 
Queen Victoria, a little account of his 
appearance and some things he said 
may be of interest. 

Like the first Soyer he does not wish 
to keep the art and science of cookery a 
mystery among the few, but to spread 
knowledge for the benefit of the many. 
Both have shown themselves practical 
economists ; the first Soyer fed hundreds 
of the needy from what had been wasted' 
at the kitchens of a great London Club. 
Economy does not mean stinting, or 
shortage, or deprivation of any kind, 
indeed economics, as defined by a great 
political economist, who said national 
affairs were but home affairs extended 
to the nation as one family — means the 
organization and direction of industry ; 
if wisely directed, of course, there is no 
waste. 

Soyer is proud of his profession, fond 
of his work, active with his own hands, 
simple of manner, and filled with earn- 
est teaching capacity ; yet he lightens his 
demonstrations with constant explana- 
tory talk, filled with little stories and 
humorous comments. 

In crowded halls, where hundreds of 
both men and women had gathered to 
see him demonstrate his famous paper- 
bag cookery, it was curious to look 
about and notice the different classes of 
persons represented. It was hard for 
the earnest listener to get near enough 
to benefit by his work and instructions. 

Very many people, who go to lectures 
or to cooking classes, desire to learn fine 
cookery; they already have gained 
fundamentals and essentials, for they are 
fine housekeepers, epicurean club men, 
experts in camp cookery, hotel keepers. 



tea-room managers, etc. Here were 
fashionable women, who knew the best 
restaurants of Paris and London as they 
knew their home city, and poor little 
French maidens, eagerly seeking a chef's 
instructions. Colored caterers lingered 
respectfully at the back of the audience. 
'It was all- America; and to such audi- 
ences Soyer showed forty things at a 
session, in red-hot weather, too! 

He talked to many that they might 
know how a few simple things, such as 
are found in all well-stocked larders, 
added to a simple dish, made a la jardi- 
nere, or a la Provencale, a la Normande 
and the like. 

His books give his recipes, but his 
chit-chat, as he worked, was instructive. 
His methods were not those calling for 
an imposing number of patent inven- 
tions. He squeezed a lemon with both 
hands clasped over it, making thus a 
strainer for the seeds. He squeezed 
halves of tomatoes by a firm pressure 
with one hand, rejecting the watery 
juice, before adding them to various 
dishes, — both meat and sauce ingredients, 
seasoning and thickening all going into 
the paper bag together, — pell-mell, al- 
most, yet not carelessly, but with orderly 
rapidity. It was like watching a sleight- 
of-hand performer, to see his manipula- 
tions. In went onion, parsley, lemon, 
bayleaf, mushrooms, sugar, vinegar, 
flour, tarragon, paprika, cayenne and 
other peppers, madeira, sherry, and 
"black jack." Scooped, tipped, turned, 
poured, sHd, presto, change ! 

In meat sauces he explained that all 
recipes calling for "vin hlanc" did not 
mean white wine, for, if you do use it, 
"the wine turns to vinegar when it boils ; 
but, if you use vinegar and sugar, these 
in cooking turn to wine." Wine, of 
course, he used in gelatine and other 
desserts. He added sugar to all the 

303 



304 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



sauces where tomato was used, and in a 
surprising number of gravies and the 
like, not "dish gravies", but what the 
average American calls gravies, and for- 
eign cooks call, instead, "sauces." Black 
Jack is a dark, brown coloring of cara- 
meled sugar, inexpensive, unless bottled 
under a foreign name and sold as Es- 
sence Parisian, etc., etc. Anyone can 
make it and have it on hand for constant 
use in meat dishes requiring a dark 
gravy or sauce, as roasts, ragout, etc. In 
ham, with champagne sauce, it was vine- 
gar and not champagne that he used. 
Madeira he used in some fine dishes, 
and jocosely remarked that, since it was 
convenient to leave cooking wine in the 
kitchen, it was wise to do, this : and suit- 
ing the action to his words he poured 
into the bottle of wine a handful of salt : 
of course, this madeira was not for gel- 
atines and pudding sauces, but for some 
of the many meat dishes to which ma- 
deira was added. 

Mushrooms he used very freely ; by the 
handful they went into the bags. Onions - 
he used sparingly, and insisted that 
onions should never be fried brown, for 
eating, alone, or for Lyonnaise potatoes 
or made dishes. On the contrary they 
''must be kept white and sugary", else 
they seriously disturbed digestion, and 
were "very nasty", — a favorite term of 
disapprobation he had brought vv^ith him 
from England, and brought out with all 
seriousness, meanwhile patting the gas- 
tric regions as if the very thought of 
onions, fried brown, made him ill. 
Neither does he brown an omelet, be- 
lieving that unhygienic, also. He has 
the butter furiously hot, and moves a 
half onion around in it, with a fork, in 
the omelet pan, then removing the onion 
he pours in the eggs and shakes the 
long-handled pan vigorously. The ome- 
let was turned out in fine shape, but it 
looked like a big fish-roe, or sweet- 
bread, or something akin, and not the 
savory brown omelet . liked here, the 
skin of which may be discarded, if peo- 
ple are fearful of hardened albumen. 



Neither does he commend cooking 
butter and flour sauces over the fire. 
It was astonishing to see him put to- 
gether a sauce and bring it out a success. 
He melted butter, dumped in flour, and 
poured over a skillet of hot milk, and 
then, with a mighty whisking, done with 
a big looped wire whisk, it came out a 
golden yellow, thick sauce, velvet- 
smooth, for macaroni. Macaroni he sea- 
sons with salt, pepper, cayenne, and a 
little nutmeg, if Hked. Parm.esan cheese 
he used, at the last. He said macaroni 
should be cooked quickly and eaten as 
soon as cooked. He softened and coiled 
it in boiling water ; when done he drained 
off the water and, lifting it deftly with 
two forks, poured the sauce in evenly. 
The thick sauce can be thinned when it 
is added to the macaroni, if necessary, — 
thinned with hot milk. The macaroni 
was then baked in a dish enclosed in a 
paper bag and was one of the most 
tempting of his dishes. 

Oatmeal he cooked with milk; and to 
"oatmeal pudding" he added orange 
peel. He also added orange peel to 
rhubarb sauce. 

The rhubarb was cut in short lengths 
and it came from the bag unbroken, 
floating in a pink liquid, not a green, 
fibrous mass. He remarked, incident- 
ally, that Queen Alexandra praised the 
rhubarb, so flavored, and asked why it 
was so fine, and was informed it was 
due to the orange peel. Af<-er that strict 
orders were given the pastry-cook to 
prepare it thus for Her Majesty. 

Water is not added to rhubarb or any- 
thing of the kind, excepting cranberries ; 
sugar added to most fruits will draw 
out sufficient liquid without adding 
water, or only enough can be added to i, 
start the steam and prevent scorching at 
first. Anyone who has tried this knows 
that even hard winter pears, left cut up 
and well sugared, will be swimming in a 
rich syrup for preserves or canning; if 
covered in the kettle and the discolored 
ones put at the bottom of the preserving 
kettle, the cooking will make them white 



SUGGESTIOXS FROM SOYER 



30: 



again. The baked apples Soyer made 
were very satisfactory. He took out the 
blossom end, and cut deeply around "the 
equator", but did not peel them. The 
gashed ''equator" let out the juice. The 
water from them was poured out of the 
bag and he recommended adding a little 
gelatine and sugar to this and pouring it 
over the apples to form a jelly. Differ- 
ent flavors can be added as liked; one 
suggestion was to pare and core the 
apples and arrange, after baking, with 
orange compote, and pour a little 
"kirsch" over the apples; kirsch is a 
cherry cordial. Another way is to stew 
them in the paper bag with butter, sugar, 
and vanilla. 

The roast of beef was fully done, en- 
closed in the bag; the fish-steaks looked 
nice, and the braised squabs were w^ell 
done in paper bags; and the big cake 
came out in perfect style, though it liad 
not been watched at all. Soyer never 
uses baking powder, or soda, — just eggs 
and beating, to make cake light. Have 
less cake, but, when you do have it, let it 
be choice is his idea. 

A whole dinner in one dish w-as his 
steak and vegetables. Into a big bag 
went a thick steak of good size; whole 
peeled potatoes and w^hole tomatoes 
were set on top of it, — the steak not the 
bag — ,with plenty of tops of great 
mushrooms, one little wdiite onion and 
a little parsley. When these came out, 
all cooked and in shape, and were ar- 
ranged nicely on a platter, a garnish of 
lemon and parsley w^as added. Thus, he 
said, a family dinner was cooked with- 
out anything to w^ash but the pan that 
supported the paper bag. 

Braised veal a la Bourgeoise he recom- 
mended as a good w^ay to use almost any 
kind of cold meat, in exactly the same 
way as fresh veal. He mixed in a bowl 
the veal, carrots, turnips, parsley, salt, 
pepper, sugar, a very little of this, 
cayenne pepper, mushrooms, tomato, 
flour, madeira, and black jack; all this 
was well-blended and thinned with cold 
water before it was dumped into a bag 



and well closed with a metal-bar-fasten- 
ing, such as come with the bags in which 
liquids are to be cooked. This was a 
very savory dish. 

French peas were young green peas 
cooked with onion, bayleaf, tarragon, 
salt, flour, butter and, as nearly as could 
be seen, a little sugar. 

His preparation of fresh salmon was 
most interesting. He buttered the bag, 
added water and lemon, rind and juice, 
then put the bag in the oven to boil. 
Bake salmon in the same way, by simply 
omitting the water. Another time he 
rubbed a fish, both sides, with flour, salt, 
cayenne, chopped lemon and parsley. 
Into the bag with the fish went mush- 
rooms, bayleaf, tomato juice from 
freshly cut tomatoes, standing ready for 
many dishes, — not just the watery juice 
that may be squeezed from one, but 
rather a puree of fresh tomato, — and a 
bit of onion. Use claret or burgundy 
for salmon, or vinegar and sugar for 
recipes "au vin blanc". This recipe is 
good for fish that have been frozen and, 
if my ears heard aright, for kippered 
herring! Prepare mackerel and other 
fish like salmon. Again, for fish he 
used lemon juice, anchovy essence, and 
cooked the potatoes in with the fish. 

The listeners' ears were over-full of 
intelligence and their appetites were 
whetted as everything from oatmeal to 
braised squabs, roast beef and lamb 
cutlets appeared, not to mention appetiz- 
ing whiffs of coft'ee made in different 
ways. Souffles w^ere lightly put together, 
and things too numerous to mention 
came forth like magic from blackened 
paper bags, taken from a row of gas 
ovens stretched across a very large stage. 

Finally, it was a lesson in pretty hand- 
ling to see cheese biscuits made. Soyer 
did use a spatula or palette knife to clean 
the board, at last, but he said, laugh- 
ingly, that hands were the most useful 
tools, and to use a spoon for mixing 
only when friends called in. Just why, 
though, he likes fingers for buttering 

Continued on Page 322 




HO^^IE 




ECON^'MIE.S 




Contributions to this department v/ill be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Light in Dark Corners 

LIGHT is synonymous with life and 
cheer. Nothing adds so much to 
the comfort and beauty of a home as 
plenty of sunlight. Clean, shining win- 
dows and fresh white curtains give an 
atmosphere of health, happiness and re- 
finement to even a poorly furnished 
room. 

In one's own home, no matter what 
mistakes have been made by the archi- 
tect and builder, some way can always 
be contrived to let in more sunshine and 
fresh air. 

One house, which originally had a 
dark dining room with a blank wall, 
which was very near the street, was 
beautifully lighted by cutting a row of 
three small windows near the ceiling. 
At this height in the wall, they are above 
the range of gaze of passersby on the 
street. The windows have tiny panes 
of leaded glass and are very ornamental. 

In another house, an outside door has 
been utilized as a light-giver by having 
the upper half of the door made of 
glass. 

A dark stairway was lighted by a 
round "bulls-eye" window. This is 
made to swing on hinges so it is easily 
washed. 

An oblong window, set high in the 
wall, with a side-board or buiifet placed 
below it, formed a pleasing effect in a 
remodeled dining room. Such a win- 
dow would be very convenient with a 
built-in china closet or book-shelves be- 
low it. 



When one is living in rented apart- 
ments, the light problem is more difficult 
of solution, but much can be done by 
simple devices. 

Everyone knows that light-colored 
wall coverings make a room appear 
larger and lighter. White reflects light 
and the use of white in decoration 
brightens a gloomy room. 

.In a living room, shaded by adjoining 
buildings, all the heavy furniture was 
moved away from the vicinity of the 
two windows, in order that persons read- 
ing or sewing could draw their chairs 
near the windows. Airy net curtains 
were substituted for heavy lace drap- 
eries. White linen covers were placed 
on the little tables, and a white lambre- 
quin on the mantel-shelf. Some small 
rugs, stools and ornaments, which gave 
the rooms an over-crowded appearance, 
were removed to the attic. 

A dark narrow hallway was trans- 
formed into an attractive entrance by 
papering it with a pale yellow paper and 
painting the woodwork a cream-white, 
including the stair railing, banisters and 
floor; while a narrow strip of tan and 
yellow carpet was laid in the centre of 
the floor, extending up the stairway. 

Linoleum, in light shades, makes an 
excellent floor covering for a dark hall, 
as it can be easily kept clean and sani- 
tary. 

In most houses the cellar ceiling and 
walls are whitewashed. The shelves 
may also be painted white. 

In a dark pantry, white oilcloth or 
paper covering the shelves causes small 



306 



HOME IDEAS AXD ECOXOMIES 



307 



objects to stand out distinctly. The in- 
terior of dark closets may be painted 
white, including ceiHng, floor, walls, and 
shelves. 

The cooking range in the kitchen, in- 
stead of being blackened, may be kept 
looking fresh and shining with silvery 
aluminum paint. It is an ingenious plan 
to paint the interior of the oven with 
aluminum paint, in order to see clearly 
the articles which are put in there to 
bake. 

Large mirrors hung on the wall 
brighten dull apartments, as they reflect 
and diffuse light. ^lirrors also make 
small rooms appear larger and give an 
air of spaciousness to a suite of rooms. 

Whatever the artificial light may be. 
it should be abundant and always kept 
in good order. In these days of gas and 
electricity, people are apt to economize in 
burning gas for fear of the man who 
reads the meter, but the living rooms 
and hall should always be well-lighted. 

Who does not know the feeling of 
good cheer and hospitality suggested 
when one passes a house where brilliant 
light streams from all the windows? 

As a matter of convenience and econ- 
omy, one practical housekeeper supplies 
each bedroom with a candle. At the 
head of the stairs in the attic a candle 
is always to be found, and a candle is 
kept at the cellar entrance, ready for 
instant use, if it is necessary to attend 
to any duties in these apartments. 

N. F. M. 

* * * 
Onions 

THE long-standing prejudice against 
onions seems to have almost dis- 
appeared, of late. They are not only 
used freely for seasoning other food, 
but are served as a vegetable accom- 
paniment for fish, flesh and fowl. 
Onions are said to be excellent for ex- 
citable nerves, and for the ailments 
arising from weakness of throat and 
lungs. They appear frequently on diet 
lists, and, said a lover of onions, "You 



feel so superior when you happen to eat 
anything on a diet list". 

A thick Porter House Steak, smoth- 
ered in fried onions, is a dish fit for a 
king ; but everybody, alas ! hasn't a royal 
digestion, and for these weaker mortals 
there are simpler ways of cooking. 
Boiled and served with cream sauce, or 
with butter, pepper and salt, crumbed 
and scalloped, or cut in slices, boiled 
and poured over buttered toast, they are 
appetizing and wholesome. Raw new 
onions, shredded fine and served on let- 
tuce with French dressing, make a de- 
licous spring salad. A certain epicure 
of long ago used to prefer them baked 
like potatoes. Onions of similar size 
were selected, put in rather a deep pan, 
top side up, and baked two hours or 
more in a hot oven. They must be 
thoroughly cooked. Serve on small hot 
plates. Open with the fork, put in pep- 
per-, salt and a lump of butter and eat 
from the skins. They are delicious. 

M. s. 
* * * 

Tissue Paper in the Kitchen 

THE uses of soft paper in the 
kitchen are almost as numerous as 
those of cloth, and for the same pur- 
poses. In our household, every scrap of 
tissue is saved and collected in a box in 
the kitchen. From this we catch up a 
bit, now and then, to wipe oflF the ice, 
rub a patch of rust on the stove, take up 
a drop of milk on the table, wipe a 
greasy knife or spoon, grease a cake tin 
and so on, dropping the paper into the 
fire afterwards. So we save rinsing a 
cloth — and even this slight effort is 
worth saving. 

Every lot of potatoes contains a cer- 
tain proportion of poor specimens, either 
very small or more or less decayed. I 
alwc^ys take out these undesirable ones 
immediately, and having removed im- 
perfections, boil them all at once. A 
part I mash and cream, with plenty of 
seasoning, the remainder I use for po- 
tato salad. 



308 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Sensible Housekeeping Attire 

A pretty sure test of breeding is in 
the way a woman dresses at her work. 
Appropriateness is the • first requisite. 
For cooking, sweeping, or any sort of 
distinctly household tasks, one should 
dress the part as truly as for afternoon 
tea or the opera. Half-worn finery is 
horribly out of taste, and, on the other 
hand, the loose sack and flowing wrapper 
are abominations. The usefulness of 
workaday clothes is in no way incon- 
sistent with daintiness and style. One 
will recognize a lady, in whatever task 
she is occupied, by the trimness and 
neatness of her attire. 

For Even Wear of Household 
Linen 

In putting away the week's washing, 
I always place the newly laundered arti- 
cles at the bottom of their respective 
piles in the drawers or on the closet 
shelves. The next to be used I take 
from the top. This method brings each 
thing into use in regular rotation, and 
insures even wear on the whole supply. 
I find the plan especially desirable in 
the matter of sheets, pillow-cases, tow- 
els, napkins and handkerchiefs. 

E. M. H. 

* * * 
Just an Old Grape Basket 

YOU who reside in cities do not real- 
ize what difficulties the out of town 
and real country folks encounter when 
gift time comes. 

I was in a quandery, once, as to what 
might be sent to an old lady, also to an 
invalid friend ; a happy idea came to me ; 
I acted upon it most successfully, and 
here it is. 

In the basement were several small 
grape baskets and peach ''carriers" ; 
these were brought up, washed, dried, 
then covered neatly with moss green 
crepe paper, which is obtainable every- 
where ; in each I put two glasses of jelly, 
a few plain cookies, a small box of 



fudge, a steamed fruit pudding, cooked 
in half a pound baking powder can, two 
polished apples, some figs and raisins; 
the made articles wxre all my own prod- 
ucts ; each was wrapped in waxed paper, 
then in some of the green, with a suitable, 
optimistic, seasonable verse enclosed. 

It is needless to say the baskets were 
attractive to look at, and the contents 
appreciated, because it all looked so 
pretty, and showed thoughtfulness and 
individuality. 

Delicious Egg-Plant Croquettes 

Egg-plant is a vegetable which so 
many only use occasionally, because they 
think it can only be used satisfactorily 
in the old way of dipping and frying; 
not so, try this. 

Required — Egg-plant, two eggs, two 
cups of fine bread crumbs, beef ex- 
tract or one bouillon cube, hot water, 
parsley, one tomato, pepper, salt, and a 
little flour. 

To make — Pare and boil the egg- 
plant; when soft (about half an hour), 
drain, and mash fine ; to it add the beef, 
one beaten egg, one cup of crumbs, 
the parsley, salt, pepper, tomato, and 
only enough flour to make it adhere 
nicely; form into small croquettes, dip 
in beaten egg and fine bread crumbs ; 
fry to golden brown in deep fat ; serve i 
hot on a hot platter, prettily decorated ! 
with sprigs of parsley and tiny red rad- 
ishes ; lettuce with French dressing and , 
salty wafers are a pleasing accompani- I 
ment to eye and palate. l. n. 

* * * 

A Bazaar of All Nations 

LL over the land, in city and coun- 
\^ try, women are constantly on the j 
qui vive for something original in the ' 
way of entertainments for the benefit of 
the various branches of church work or 
charitable objects, and none seems more 
in favor than some sort of bazaar. For 
an effective arrangement, have booths or 
villas, which decorate lavishly v/ith bunt- 
ing and flags and emblems of the differ- 



A 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



309 



cnt nations, and have young women pre- 
siding over the booths, garbed to repre- 
sent the different nations of the world, 
each corresponding in dress with the re- 
spective flags. The Irish Colleen, the 
Spanish Senorita, the German Fraulein, 
the French ^ladamoiselle, the Norwe- 
gian Froken, Dutch Gretchen, Scotch 
lassie, Persian, Chinese, and Japanese 
maidens, with the fair English and our 
own American girls, form an unusual 
galaxy of beauty and grace. So many 
being in fancy costume, the effect is 
most striking, though the simple cos- 
tumes are hardly less beautiful, mingling 
with the rich, many-colored robes, be- 
spangled, as is the Eastern custom. 
The beauty of the scene may be further 
enhanced by many brilliant lights and 
music. At every booth viands charac- 
teristic of the various countries can be 
dispensed, which will impart to the en- 
tertainment a distinctive feature. Jour- 
neying from one villa to another or 
from one "nation" to another is but an 
easy task, and, at each turn, something 
pretty and novel awaits one. At the 
American booth, which, above all others, 
must be conspicuous and most attrac- 
tively decorated with Old Glory and red, 
white and blue bunting, serve succotash, 
baked beans, a variety of cake and pie, 
ice cream and home-made candy. 

The German villa may be converted 
into a typical German garden in w^hich 
a plentiful supply of coffee, with cheese, 
rye bread, kuclien and sandwiches are 
to be found. 

The French booth can supply the 
most delectable salads, chicken and bon- 
bons. 

At the tables in the Swedish booth one 
can enjoy "smorbrod'' (slices of cold 
meat or salted fish placed on bread). 

Scotland oft"ers its scones and marm- 
alades, and when going into England one 
is regaled with a cup of tea served with 
gooseberry tarts and buns. The Irish 
villa may have its share of Irish flags 
and shamrocks, and the motto "Erin go 
Rragh" (Ireland Forever) placed in a 



prominent place. Here are such attrac- 
tive favors as gilt harps, snakes, frogs, 
clay pipes, and imitation potatoes and 
cabbages, as boxes for green bonbons and 
other sweets. Here can be croquettes, 
potato salad and buns raised with potato 
yeast. 

Gipsy maids, picturesque in their 
vivid, variegated attire, holding tambour- 
ines, add greatly to the spirit and beauty 
of the occasion. Then, too, Jacob's well 
must not be overlooked. This can be 
formed by using a half-barrel or keg 
filled with lemonade. To make it con- 
venient as to height, set the keg on a 
box, pile stones around the box and 
place large palms so as to overhang the 
well, thus forming a sort of booth. Let 
Rebecca, who presides at the well, be a 
girl with long black hair, worn loosely 
flowing over her shoulders. A long robe 
of yellow or red, girdled at the waist 
and low about the neck, would be a suit- 
able costume. A gold band should bind 
the hair on her brow and, to procure 
the Oriental effect, she should wear an 
abundant supply of necklaces and brace- 
lets. A large earthenware jar or pitcher 
will answer for a vessel, from which 
Rebecca can pour lemonade from the 
v\-ell into small cups or glasses. 
If invitations are desired, cards bearing 
the following inscription can be sent 
out: 

We invite you to our church bazaar, 
^^'he^e all things bright and lovely are ; 
You'll find from all the world's great nations, 
Pretty maids and choicest rations; 
Come, buy the dainties which we sell, 
We'll welcome you and treat you well. 

Another great help is to post posters 
about town advertising the aft'air. These 
might read: "AN INVITATION TO 
TRAVEL ABROAD. COME TO THE 
BAZAAR OF ALL NATIONS", giv- 
ing date, time and place. This makes 
an ideal entertainment for any church or 
society hoping to have some little money 
making festivity to help a good cause. 

s. T. H. 




QUERIE-^ <^ AN^^VfcR>3 





THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking School Magazine, 372 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1902. — "Recipe for 'End of the Sea- 
son Pickles' previously given in this maga- 
zine." 

End of the Season Pickles 

1 ripe cucumber 
i a cup of salt 
3 pints of vinegar 

2 pounds of brown 
sugar 

1 teaspoonful of 

mustard 
1 teaspoonful of 

pepper 



2 quarts of green 
tomatoes 

1 quart of ripe toma- 
toes 

3 heads of celery 
3 red peppers 

3 green peppers 
3 large onions 
1 small cabbage 



Chop the vegetables, sprinkle with the 
salt and let stand overnight. Drain thor- 
oughly, pressing out all the liquid. Add 
the other ingredients and cook until 
transparent (about one hour) store as 
canned fruit. 



Query 1903. — "Recipe for Pumpkin Pie." 

Pumpkin Pie 



H cups of cooked 
and sifted pumpkin 
1 cup of milk 
i a cup of cream 
i egg beaten light 
5 a cup of sugar 



of 



2 tablespoonfuls 

molasses 
h a teaspoonful of 

salt 
1 tablespoonful of 

ginger 



Mix all the ingredients together and 
turn into a deep plate, lined and finished 
with a fluted edge. Bake until the center 
is firm. The oven should be of good 
heat, at first, to bake the pastry. After 
ten or fifteen minutes, reduce the heat. 
Twenty-five or thirty minutes of cooking 
are needed. 



Query 1904. — "Recipe for Flaky Pastry for 
upper crust of two Pies." 

Flaky Pastry for Two Pies 

Sift together one cup and a , half of 
sifted, pastry flour, and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and baking 
powder. With a knife or the tips of the 
fingers work in three ounces (about one- 
third a cup) of shortening, then, using a 
little, cold water, as needed, mix with 
the knife on a board, lightly dredged 
the knife, on a board, lightly dredged 
with flour, to coat the entire surface with 
the flour. Pat with the pin and roll 
into a rectangular sheet. Have' ready 
about two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
beaten to a cream ; spread part of this 
over one half of the paste, and fold the 
other half over the butter; again spread 
one-half of the surface with butter and 
fold the other half over the butter. Use 
at once or wrap in waxed paper and set 
aside, covered, in a cool place, until the 
next day or even two or three days. 



QuERt" 1905. — "Recipe for sauce served on 
thin griddle cakes, size of a dinner plate, 
piled about six deep. There was a meringue 
on top, browned in the oven, and apparently 
butter and maple sugar, in some form, be- 
tween." 

Sauce for French Pancakes 

The pancakes were probably made 
with several eggs. Without doubt the 
cakes as baked were spread with butter 
and then sprinkled with maple sugar. 



310 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



311 



Maple sugar, two level tablespoon fuls to 
each egg-white, might be used in the 
meringue. 



Query 1906. — "Recipe for Chocolate Xut 
Cookies." 

Chocolate Nut Cookies 



i a cup of butter 
g a cup of sugar 
2 ounces of chocolate 

melted 
2 eggs 
i a cup of nut meats 



4 a cup of seeded 

raisins 
2 teaspoonfuls of 

baking powder 
2 cups of flour 
1 teaspoonful of 

cinnamon 



Beat the eggs without separating the 
whites and yolks. Add the chocolate to 
the creamed butter and sugar. Drop 
from a teaspoon on to a buttered baking 
sheet. Set a half-nut meat on the top of 
each cake, and dredge with granulated 
sugar. Bake in moderate oven. 



Query 1907.— "What is the cause of sticki- 
ness appearing at the center of loaves of white 
bread ? The bread was apparently well baked." 

Bread "Sticky" at Center of Loaf 

We are unable to state, absolutely, the 
cause of the above condition sometimes 
seen in bread. \\'e saw a loaf of Boston 
Ih'own Bread in the same condition, a 
few weeks ago, when the weather was 
damp and warm. We were sure that 
this loaf of bread had not been thor- 
oughly steamed. There was, also, a sus- 
picion of mustiness in the rye meal that 
formed one-third of its flour contents. 
Probably the white loaf was not baked 
as thoroughly as had been supposed, and, 
weather conditions being favorable, the 
bread spoiled. 



Query 1908.— "Recipes for Cooking Dried 
Beans and Peas." 

Puree of Split-Pea Soup, with 
Almond Milk 

Pour plenty of boiling water over one 
cup of split peas and let boil three min- 
utes; drain, add three pints of cold water 
and one teaspoonful of sugar, and let 
boil about an hour. Chop half (if large) 



a carrot, one onion, three branches of 
parsley, raw lean ham to make two 
tablespoonfuls, and a branch of celery. 
Cook these in two tablespoonfuls of 
dripping or butter, stirring meanwhile, 
until lightly browned ; then add to the 
peas, cover and let simmer about an 
hour. Strain through a sieve, pressing, 
meanwhile, with a wooden pestle. Skim, 
add about one teaspoonful and a half of 
salt, and return to the fire. Have ready 
one-eighth a pound of blanched almonds, 
pounded smooth in a mortar and cooked 
in a cup of milk half an hour (over hot 
w^ater). Press the almonds and milk 
through a cheese cloth into the soup. 
Let boil once, then serve. The beaten 
yolks of two eggs, mixed with half a cup 
of cream, may replace the almond milk. 

Black Bean Soup 

Let one pint of black or dark red kid- 
ney beans soak overnight ; drain, wash 
in cold water and rinse and drain again. 
Set to cook in two cjuarts of cold water. 
Slice an onion and let cook in one or 
two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add to 
the beans wath two parsley branches 
and half a teaspoonful of celery seed, 
tied in a bit of muslin. Let simmer until 
the beans are soft, adding hot water as 
needed to keep the quantity the same as 
in the beginning. Press the beans 
through a sieve; add two teaspoonfuls 
of salt, one-half a teaspoonful of pap- 
rika, one-fourth a teaspoonful of curry 
powder and a cup of tomato puree, if 
at hand. Heat the soup to the boiling 
point. Beat one-fourth a cup of butter 
to a cream; gradually beat in two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, dilute with a little of 
the hot soup, stir until smooth, then re- 
turn the whole to the soup kettle and 
let simmer fifteen minutes. Serve a 
slice of lemon and a slice of "hard- 
cooked" egg in each plate of soup. Pass 
croutons with the soup. 

Dried Pea or Bean Puree 

Let a cup and a half of dried peas or 
beans soak over night in cold vrater ; 



3.12 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



wash and rinse, cover with boiling water 
and let simmer until tender and the 
water is reduced to just enough to keep 
the vegetable from burning. Mash and 
press through a sieve. Add one-fourth 
a cup of butter, a teaspoon ful or more 
of salt, half a teaspoonful of black pep- 
per, and if needed, a little cream. Beat 
until light and fluffy. Serve wath roasted 
lamb, lamb chops, ham, pork, etc. The 
puree may be served in a vegetable dish 
or as a bed for chops, fillets of beef, etc. 
For a choice dish set the puree in place 
with a bag and star tube. Served as a 
vegetable entree, surround the puree 
with toast points, well-buttered. 

Red Kidney Beans, INIexican Style 

Let a cup of dark, maroon colored 
kidney beans soak over night in plenty 
of cold water. Set to cook in fresh 
water and let simmer several hours or 
until nearly tender, letting the water, at 
the last, evaporate till but a few spoon- 
fuls are left. Chop fine a green -or red 
pepper or let a pepper simmer in a little 
water until tender, then scrape the pulp 
from the thin outer skin. To the 
chopped pepper or the pepper pulp add 
the pulp scraped from an onion and two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; let 
these cook in two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter until softened and yel- 
lowed; add half a teaspoonful of salt, 
one cup of tomato puree, and, when 
boiling, stir in the beans. Let cook until 
the tomato is evaporated and the beans 
are soft throughout. Finish with two 
more tablespoonfuls of butter in little 
bits. Surround with triangles of bread, 
buttered and brov/ned in the oven. If 
desired garnish with a hard-cooked egg, 
cut in eighths, lengthwise. 

Baked Beans, Spanish Fashion 

Let a pint of dried beans (California, 
pea, yellow-eyed, flageolet or Lima 
beans) stand covered with cold water 
over night ; rub the beans between the 
hands and rinse in cold water. Again 
cover with cold water and let heat slowly 



to the boiling point, then let simmer 
until nearly tender, adding at the last 
a teaspoonful of soda. Drain and rinse 
with cold water. Turn a layer of the 
beans into a baking dish, sprinkle with 
sweet red peppers, chopped fine, and a 
little salt, add also a slice or two of 
bacon, cut in tiny squares ; continue the 
layers until the beans are used. Have 
ready cooked tomatoes, pressed through 
a sieve to exclude seeds ; add these to 
the beans until they are well covered. 
Bake in a hot oven about two hours. 

Boston Baked Beans 

Let one pint of pea beans soak in cold 
water over night. In the morning wash 
and rinse in several waters. Then par- 
boil until they may be pierced with a 
pin. Change the water during the par- 
boiling, adding a teaspoonful of soda 
with the last water. Rinse thoroughly 
in hot water. Put one-half of the beans 
into the bean-pot. Pour scalding water 
over one-fourth a pound of salt pork 
and, after scraping the rind thoroughly, 
score it in half-inch strips. Lay the pork 
on the beans in the pot, and turn in the 
rest of the beans. Mix two tablespoon- 
fuls of molasses and one teaspoonful, 
each, of mustard and salt, with hot 
water to pour, and turn over the beans. 
Then add boiling water to cover. Bake 
about eight hours in a moderate oven. 
Keep the beans covered with water and 
the cover on the pot until the last hour. 
Then remove the cover, and bring the 
pork to the top, to brown the rind. 
Beans are better baked in large quantity. 

Baked Beans and Pork, 
New York Style 

Let a pint of pea beans soak over 
night in water to cover generously. In 
the morning drain off the water; add 
fresh water and wash and rub the 
beans through the hands in the water. 
Turn the beans into a colander and let 
cold water run through them. Then 
cover with cold water and put over the 
fire to cook. Dip one-fourth a pound 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






Simply 
Nature At fler Best 



Certain South American dis- 
tricts grow a superior grade of 
cocoa beans. 

These beans are roasted and 
ground for Lowney*s Cocoa. 

You get no man-made addi- 
tions to blur Nature's best cocoa 
flavor. 

And what a flavor it is! There 
is joy in the very aroma that 
steams from the cup. You can 
taste the purity in each delicious 
sip. 

That natural flavor has never 
been bettered by man. 





Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
313 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of salt pork into boiling water, and 
scrape the outer surface, including the 
rind, thoroughly, then put the pork into 
the beans to cook. When the skins of 
the beans are easily pierced, remove 
them from the fire, add a teaspoonful of 
salt and turn them into a rather shallow 
baking dish (a tin or agate dish answers 
nicely). Score the rind of the pork, for 
cutting into slices, and press it down into 
the beans in the middle of the dish, 
cover with an agate plate and bake in a 
moderate oven from four to six hours. 
Add boiling water as needed during the 
first of the cooking. Do not add water 
during the last hour. Just before the 
last hour, remove the cover, to brown 
the top of the beans and pork. Serve 
hot with tomato catsup, mustard pickles 
and the like. 

New York Baked Beans, Moulded 
with Sausage 

Prepare and bake the beans as in the 
preceding recipe, substituting three- 
fourths a pound of sausage for the salt 
pork. Keep the sausage buried in the 
beans during the cooking. After the 
beans have been served at noon, press 
the remainder of them into a mold, or 
small, tin, bread pan, lined with waxed 
paper. Put the sausage into the mold, 
lengthwise of the mold, then it will be 
in good position for slicing. Serve with 
lettuce and French or mayonnaise dress- 
ing. 

Lima Bean Salad 

Over a pint of cold cooked Lima beans 
pour three or four tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of cider 
vinegar, one teaspoonful of grated onion 
pulp, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half 
a teaspoonful of paprika. Toss and mix ; 
dispose on a serving dish, surround 
with a "pin-money mangoe," chopped 
fine. Serve at once or let stand in a cool 
place for some time before serving. 

Lima-and-Black Bean Salad 

Let one cup each of Lima and black 



beans soak overnight, separately, in 
cold water; drain, wash in cold water, 
drain and set to cook in cold water. 
After boiling begins, replenish with 
boiling water as needed and let cook 
until tender. Season with salt when 
about three-fourths cooked. When cold 
season separately with oil, vinegar, 
onion juice, paprika, chopped parsley 
and about one- fourth a teaspoonful of 
mustard or curry powder. Let stand 
until well seasoned. Serve in a bowl 
lined with lettuce hearts. Dispose the 
dark beans in the center and the light 
ones around the edge. 



Query 1909. — "Recipe for Viscogen, pre- 
viously given in this magazine." 

Viscogen To Thicken Thin Cream 

Pasteurized or other thin cream may 
be thickened by a solution of lime in 
sugar (viscogen) and then whipped to 
a stiff froth with a Dover egg-beater. 
Viscogen is not to be found at a store, 
but is easily made and will keep in good 
condition several years if not used in 
the meanwhile. 

To make the viscogen, dissolve five 
ounces of sugar in ten ounces of water. 
Add six ounces of cold water to two 
ounces of quicklime, and let it gradually 
slake; then strain through a fine sieve^ 
to remove unslaked particles ; combine 
the two liquids and shake occasionally 
for two hours. In three hours set the 
mixture aside to settle, then siphon, or 
pour off, the clear liquid. Store in small 
bottles, filling each full and stoppering 
tight, as the liquid absorbs carbonic 
acid from the air, thus darkening the 
color and reducing the strength. Use 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of viscogen to 
three-fourths a cup of chilled cream. 
Stir the cream while adding the viscogen 
to it. 



Query 1910. — "Recipe for 'Swiss Rice' as 
prepared by the Germans." 

Swiss Rice (Filippini) 



314 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




"And now for a dash of 
Holbrook's" 

Always have a bottle of this delicious 
Sauce on the table ready for use — it's 
wonderful how appetising it makes a 
meal. 



England has long been famous for the manufacture of Sauces, and in 
order to ensure the real English flavor every bottle of Holbrook's 
Sauce is made in their original factory and imported under seal. 



XT 11 Worcestcilyhire O 

nolbrookts o 



aucc 



Imported Absolutely ! ! 




AfJ7£>B /yy A(E0O EJ\(GL/JfS(D — BEST IN THE WORLD 



NINE REASONS 



HUB 



Have Heat on Five Sides 
of the OveQ 

Manufactured by 

SMITH 6i 

ANTHONY 

CO. 

52-54 UNION ST. 
BOSTON, MASS. 

Sold by all leading dealers. 
Send for Circular. 



1 — 5 sides of oven are heated 
— (only four sides in other 
ranges)— 25% better. 

2— Flue makes only 4 turns 
— (other flues make 6 
turns) — 33>^ less friction. 

3 — Corrugated and arched top 
oven plate-''can't crack." 

4— 2-piece bottom oven plate 
—"can't crack." 

5— Clean out plate in front. 

6— French top. 

7— Roller bearing Coal Pan. 

8— Roller bearing Ash Pan. 

9— Direct Plunger Simplex 
Damper. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
315 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Chop fine an onion of medium size and 
two ounces of beef marrow ; melt a table- 
spoonful of butter in a saucepan, and in 
it cook the onion and marrow until of a 
light golden color, stirring constantly 
meanwhile. Add eight ounces (one 
cup) of blanched rice and stir until col- 
'Ored slightly, then pour on gradually one 
^quart of hot broth. Season with one 
tteaspoonful of pepper, and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of Spanish saffron, diluted 
with a little water and strained. Mix all 
together thoroughly, cover and let cook 
thirty-five minutes, stirring carefully 
from the bottom occasionally (or cook 
in a double boiler or on an asbestos 
mat). Add two ounces of grated Swiss 
cheese, and mix lightly. Serve in a deep 
dish. 

Turin Rice (Davidis) 

Same as above, save substitute one 
glass of white wine or Madeira for one 
cup of the broth and fine-chopped truf- 
fles for the cheese. Serve with stews 
and rechaufees of meat. 



Query 1911. — ^"Recipes for Simple Desserts, 
in which neither rice nor tapioca are used." 

Banana Whip 

Peel two bananas, scrape off the 
coarse threads and press the pulp 
through a sieve (potato ricer). To the 
pulp add the juice of half a lemon and 
half a cup of sugar; stir and cook over 
the fire until the mixture boils, then re- 
move from the fire and let become 
chilled. Beat half to three-fourths a 
cup of cream until firm throughout ; fold 
the cream into the banana mixture. 
Serve in glasses. 

Baked Bananas 

Remove the peel from eight bananas 
^nd scrape the pulp, to remove coarse 
threads. In an agate pan melt two table- 
spoonfuls of butter; in this lay the 
bananas, pour over them half a cup of 
sugar, then sprinkle with the juice of 
one lemon. Let bake slowly, basting 



occasionally, turning the bananas once, 
until the bananas are tender and the liq- 
uid quite thick and jelly-like. Both the 
sauce and the bananas will become quite 
pink in color. Slow cooking and re- 
moval from the oven when done are 
essential to success. 

Baked Apple Dumpling 



Tart apples 

Salt 

3 tablespoonfuls of 

cold water 
U cups of pastry 

flour 
3 teaspoonfuls of 

baking powder 



i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
3 tablespoonfuls of 

butter 
1 egg (this may be 

omitted) 
I a cup of milk 
(scant measure) 



Butter an agate baking dish; into it 
slice tart apples to fill to the top; add a 
dash of salt and the cold water. Make 
a soft biscuit dough of the other ingre- 
dients and spread it over the apples. 
Bake in a quick oven about twenty-five 
minutes. Invert the dish, so as to have 
the apples on the top. Serve hot, with 
butter and sugar or syrup. 

Delmonico Pudding with Peaches 
or Apricots 



Pudding 
4 to 6 halves of 
canned apricots or 
peaches with a lit- 
tle fruit syrup 
i a cup of cornstarch 
I a cup of cold milk 
If cups of scalding 

hot milk 
1 teaspoonful of 



butter 
2 yolks of eggs 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a cup of sugar 

Meringue 
2 whites of eggs 
4 tablespoonfuls of 

sugar 
i a teaspoonful of 

vanilla extract 



Put the fruit and syrup in a pudding 
dish; make a thick "boiled custard" of 
the other ingredients, cooking the starch 
ten or fifteen minutes in the hot milk be- 
fore adding the yolks of egg with the 
sugar. Turn the custard over the fruit. 
Beat the whites of eggs dry; gradually 
beat in half the sugar, then fold in the 
other half and the extract. Spread .the 
meringue over the custard and let stand 
in a moderate oven about ten minutes. 
Serve hot or cold. 



316 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Buy advertised Goods — do 
317 



not accept substitutes 



New Books 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking. By 
Mary Chandler Jones. Cloth. 
Price $1.00 net; $1.08 postpaid. 
Boston : The Boston Cooking-School 
Magazine Co. 

Many chapters of this book have ap- 
peared, in past years, as a series of Les- 
sons in Elementary Cooking, in the 
Cooking-School Magazine. There seemed 
to be a demand that the Lessons be put 
into book form, that is, a demand for a 
text book of elementary cooking. And 
this, together with revision of old matter 
and the addition of much important new 
matter, has now been done. 

The author is a teacher of cooking in 
the Public Schools of Brookline, Massa- 
chusetts, and the book is the direct re- 
sult of her teaching. It will suffice to 
say here that the book provides an au- 
thentic and reliable guide in teaching ele- 
mentary cooking. It shows how one 
teacher of cookery is conducting her 
classes. Certainly, up to the present 
time, we have not seen anything better 
done. Teachers of elementary cooking 
will be especially interested in the book, 
for it will be helpful to them. In schools 
where an elementary text book on this 
subject is wanted an examination of this 
manual will be well worth while. 

Education. By William P. Hastings. 
Battle Creek, Mich.: Hygiene & 
Physical Education Press. 

The author claims to be an enthusiastic 
advocate of Education for the Masses 
in all that pertains directly to qualifica- 
tion for good citizenship. His book pre- 
sents his own observations on the old 
and new phases of education during an 
experience of half a century spent as a 
teacher. He concludes that "In the near 
future we may expect more intelligent 
and systematic care for the physical well- 



being of pupils, more attention to a pu- 
pil's personal needs, more personal en- 
thusiasm on the part of the teacher, and, 
best of all, an untrammeled system of 
promulgating moral and spiritual culture. 

A half century's observation and expe- 
rience in school work", he says, "leads 
him to believe that his outlook is not 
merely visionary, but fully as probable 
as any of the steps taken since the period 
of the ''Deestrick Skule", when with 
whip in hand, at all hours of the day, 
the *'Skule Marster" held despotic sway 
over trembling urchins, the victims of 
the tyrant who was in those days "keep- 
ing Skule." 

We infer that nothing specially new 
or reformatory is offered in these pages. 
The writer's hope lies in the sure and 
safe way of true progress. To us the 
educational methods of the present day 
seem to be in a state about as chaotic as 
our politics. At any rate we are con- 
vinced that any one who aspires to teach 
youth should be endowed with special 
gifts, then liberally educated, and espe- 
cially traingd for the calling. For the 
teacher's work is the most delicate and 
responsible a human being can undertake. 



[Purify your Waste-pipes! 



Do not cover Odors ! 
Remove every 
Cause ! 




To 
Destroy 
Cemu, 
Foil/ Gates 
and prevent $ickne$M, 
the last thing at night 



poor into the wastepipet, 
closets, etc,, a little 



piattk Chlorides . 

The Household Disinfectant 



Buy advertised 



Goods — do 
318 



not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



G^s wfoni 




A suggestion to cooks; — ask somebody who has 
used a Crawford range — and you will very easily find 
such a person — what the patented Single Damper of 
the Crawford means as a help in cooking. All other 
ranges have two — or more— dampers ; hence damper 
mistakes. 

Also, the scientific Cup-Joint curved heat flues 
that heat the oven in every part alike ; the Ash Hod 

that takes the place of 
the clumsy ash pan; the 
Patented Grates ; the 
powerful waterfronts and 
other time, trouble and 
money saving im- 
provements peculiar 
to Crawfords; ask about 
these. If you will do this 
we believe your next 
range will be a Crawford. 




Crawford Ranges are 
Sold by 
Progressive Dealers 



Made by WALKER 4 PRATT MFG. CO.. 31-35 Union Street, BOSTON 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
319 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



A Manual of Shoemaking. By William 
H. DooLEY. Cloth, 111. Price $1.50 
net. Boston : Little, Brown & Co. 

The first American book on this im- 
portant subject. The author is the princi- 
pal of the Lowell Industrial School, and 
is well acquainted with the need of a 
book relating to this particular topic. 
He covers the subject thoroughly, be- 
:ginning with the history of footwear, its 
adaptation in conformance to the anat- 
omy of the foot, and its growth to the 
present admirable stage. He describes 
leathers, the various methods of tanning, 
the manufacture and repair of the differ- 
ent kinds of shoes, the growth of the 
use of shoe machinery, together with the 
allied industries of rubber footwear. 

A textbook of Shoemaking is entirely 
new to us. This is the first we have 
seen and we find it both interesting and 
instructive. The fact of its publication 
shows how industrial training is, at last, 
permeating our educational system. In- 




RUBBER BUTTON 



Hose Supporter 



Will stand 
hard wear 




IN STORES EVERYWHERE. 

Child's sample pair,postpaid 
16 cents (give age). 

It gives satisfaction — doesn't tear the 
stockings — doesn't hamper the child 
— and wears longest. 
George Frost Co., Makers, Boston 

Also makers of the famous Boston Gart«r for men. 




) 

dustrial schools call for industrial text- 
books. 

Such are the present conditions of 
trade and manufacture that the process, 
in every art and craft, is reduced to the 
fine point of skill in manipulation, and 
success therein depends largely upon in- 
telligence and training. Witness the 
author's comparison of the methods in 
American and European shoe factories : 
"In most European factories, the man- 
ufacturer gets all the orders of different 
kinds, and then attempts to make one or 
two lines with one or two qualities in 
the same factory. In Switzerland, one 
may find shoes and slippers for men, 
women, and children made under the 
same roof. 

In the United States, the manufac- 
turer makes a certain line of shoes in 
one factory, and no other kind. If he 
has more than one line, he has more 
than one factory, and each factory turns 
out a distinct shoe for a distinct pur- 
pose. The manufacturer has his sales- 
men to sell these shoes. 

The advantages of the American sys- 
tem are : ( 1 ) The managers and workers 
of a factory turning out a certain line of 
goods become highly specialized in that 
line, and can produce better results than 
the workers in a factor attempting to 
make two or three lines of goods. (2) 
A large shoe factory is laid out at a rule 
to do a certain kind of work, and it sel- 
dom changes. This practice makes pos- 
sible a greater production. On the other 
hand, we have something to learn from 
the European organization. American 
manufacturers must meet the foreign 
trade. In order to do this, the manu- 
facturer must cater to the habits, cus- 
toms, and climatic conditions. The 
European manufacturer does this." 



" Oh, no ; there ain't any favorites iu 
the family!" soliloquized Johnny. ** Oh, 
no! If I bite my fingernails, I catch it. 
But, if the baby eats his whole foot, they 
think it's dear." 



Buy Adveriised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
320 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




MEADOW-GOLD Butter, made from pure, rich, pasteurized cream, 
is too sweet and delicious to permit it to be contaminated on its 

way from the creamery to your table. It is three times wrapped to 

keep in the delicate flavor and to keep out taints. 

First — Wrapped in thin vegetable parchment paper. 

Second — Wrapped in waterproof paper- — air-tight, odorless, tasteless. 

Third — Enclosed in the dainty carton and sealed. 

The trade mark seal and the familiar words 
MEADOW-GOLD BUTTER on the golden 
yellow package are your protection. 

Call for Meadow-Gold Butter at the grocery. Always sold at a fair price. 

Dealers who handle Meadow-Gold Butter find that their trade grows 

steadily and surely. The uniform high quality and the fair price draw 

customers. Address nearest distributing house. 

Makers and Distributors 

The Fox River Butter Company 



Norfolk 
Philadelhia 
Pittsburgh 
Richmond 
Rochester 
St. Louis 
THE CONTINENTAL CREAMERY COMPANY 
Oklahoma City, Okla. Pueblo, Colo. 

THE LITTLETON CREAMERY COMPANY 

Denver, Colo. 

BEATRICE CREAMERY COMPANY 



Albany 


Boston 


Detroit 


Atlanta 


Buffalo 


Jacksonville 


Augusta 


Chicago 


Memphis 


Aurora 


Charleston 


Newark 


Baltimore 


Cincinnati 


New Orleans 


Birmingham 


Cleveland 


New York 



Savannah 

Scranton 

Syracuse 

Tampa 

Washington 



Des Moines, la. 




Dubuque, la. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
321 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



What "Sterling" is 
to the silver 

Burnett's 

is to 

Vanilla 



JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



Exquisite Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

Made With 

Junket Tablets 

Your grocer or druggist sells them 
or we mail postpaid ten tablets to 
make ten quarts for 10 cents and 
give you the charming brochure 
"Junket Dainties" free. 

CHR. HANSEN'S 
LABORATORY 



Box 2507. 



Little Falls, N. Y. 



Suggestions from Soyer 

Concluded from page 305 

pans is puzzling; he does not approve of 
long bristled pastry brushes, for they will 
leave stray bristles, now and then, but of 
soft paper or cheesecloth which can be 
burned. He dredges sugar over the but- 
ter on pans for fancy cakes, to make a 
nice crust upon the bottom and sides. 

Anyone familiar with his grand- 
father's books, from ''The Gastronomic 
Regenerator" down to cottage-hearth 
cookery, suitable for English needs, will 
see he follows family traditions in many 
ways for, although a chef to royalty, he, 
like his grandfather, wishes to popular- 
ize good cookery. Evidently he had 
crossed lances with Escoffier in friendly 
tilt, another royal chef, who has not 
given Soyer's paper-bag invention the 
credit, as a labor-saver and preserver 
from shrinkage of bulk and flavor of 
foods contained in them, that Soyer 
thinks due. He has worked nine years 
to perfect the bags and system for using 
them and is enthusiastic over the results. 

For the cheese biscuits, or cheese 
straws, as we would call them, Soyer 
used three ounces of butter, twelve 
tablespoonfuls of Parmesan cheese, salt, 
a little susrar. anchovy essence, two un- 
beaten yolks, a little cream and some 
water. All these ingredients went into 
a cavity in a heap of flour on a mixing 
board. He mixed with his finders and 
kneaded and patted and pulled it into a 
smooth mass and whisked it away to fin- 
ish at the next lesson. 

And the writer, an earnest 
told that night some of this 
fellow-boarders, and they said: 
stop! you make me so hungry, 
don't know what anchovy is, nor tarra- 
gon. How did you ever learn and re- 
member so much in one day? You are 
just like that Boston girl in the funny 



listener, 

to her 

"Oh, do 

and we 



verse : 



" 'It almost painful 
She has such a brainful 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
322 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



BENSDORPS 

ROYAL DUTCH 

CDCOA 



Why Experiment? 
Use a Standard Brand of Cocoa 

BENSDORP'S 





is Absolutely Pure. 
Requires only M^ 
as much as of other 
makes because of its 

DOUBLE STRENGTH 

Always in Yellow Wrapper. Sample on request. 

STEPHEN L. BARTLEn COMPANY, Importers, Boston 



BELL'S SEASONING 

For Nearly Fifty Ifears preferred by Chefs, 
Cooks and Housekeepers to flavor Dressings 
for Meat, Game, Fish and Poultry. 
Insist upon BELL'6 the Original. 

A NICE TURKEY DRESSING. Toast 7 or 8 slices of white bread. Place in 
a deep dish, adding butter the size of an egg. Cover with hot water or milk to melt 
butter and make bread right consistency. Add one even tablespoon of Bell's 
Seasoning and one even teaspoon salt. "When well mixed stir in 1 or 2 raw eggs. 
For goose or duck add one raw onion chopped fine. 

JELLIED MEATS OR FOWL. 1 pint of cold meat or fowl, 1 teaspoon 
Bell's Seasoning, % teaspoon salt, liquid enough to fill pint mould. Add to liquid 
when hot, 1 tablespoon granulated gelatine. Cool and serve on abase of lettuce leaves 
over which thin sliced lemon is placed. 

DELICIOUS HOME MADE SAUSAGE. To each pound of fresh, lean pork add one level 
tablespoon of Bell's Poultry Seasoning and VA even teaspoons salt. Sprinkle over the meat, cut 
fine, thoroughly mix to a stiff dough, then make into cakes and fry. 

"Will mail on receipt of six 2-cent stamps 10-cent can to flavor the DRESSING for 100 lbs. 
Meat or Poultry ; or for twelve 2-cent stamps 25-cent can to flavor 300 lbs., and Avith each can 
our beautiful "Booklet "of valuable cooking recipes. 

For delicious Sausage flavor as directed, either with Bell's Spiced Poultry Seasoning, 
Bell's New England Sausage Seasoning, or Bell's White Sausage Seasoning. 

MADE ONLY BY THE WILLIAM G. BELL COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
325 . 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Table Crockery, 
China and Glass 

Adapted to Thanksgiving 

Intending bviyers 'will find an extensive 
stocK to cKoose from in 



Dinner Sets 

($5 up to $1000.00) 

Entree Sets 

($3.50 up to $78) 

Fish Sets 

($5 up to $135) 



Salad Sets 

($4 up to $50) 
Ice Cream Sets 

($2.75 up to $30) 
Game Sets 

($6.50 up to $135) 



Single Dozens of High^Class China Plates 
for Course Dinners 

Aouillon Cups and Saucers 
Ramekins, all values 

Grapefruit Plates or Bowls 
After Dinner Coffee Sets 

French Porcelain Souffle Dishes 
Macaroni Dishes and Stands 
Turkey Platters and Plates 

Paris Cafe Entree Dishes 

Covered Cheese Dishes 

Fireproof Welsh Rarebit Dishes 
Umbrella and Cane Holders — Ferneries and 
Table Decorations — Plant Pots and Pedestals — 
Window Boxes. 

In the Dinner Set Department will be seen many 
-attractive Stock Patterns always readily matched, 
«lso other designs not to be duplicated. 

In the Glass Department will also be found all 
grades, from the low cost pressed ware to the 
•etched and costly rich cut specimens adapted to 
Wedding Gifts. 

Finger Bowls — Vases — Cocktails — Roemers — 
Sorbets — Creme de Nenthes — Cordials — Lemonades 
— Champagnes — Hocks — Decanters — Carafes, etc. 

Kitchen Ware Department 

Comprises everything pertaining to the home in this 
5ine, adapted for the family, club, hotel, yacht, or pub- 
'lic institution, including new French Porcelain Souffle 
Dishes, Shirred Egg Dishes, Egg Poachers, Cafe- 
itieEes, Casseroles, Cocottes. 

Tea Infusers. 

Rare and odd China Pitchers, fiom the ordinary 
up to the costly. Over 800 kinds to choose from. 

In brief, everything pertaining to Crockery, Por- 
celain and Glassware connected with home, hotel and 
club, in sets or parts of sets up to the costly table 
services. 

Inspection Invited 

vJones, McDuffee 4 Stratton Co. 

CROCKERY, CHINA AND GLASS 

(10 Floors) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 Franklin Street, Cor. Hawley 

INear WasHirv^ton and Svtmiaer Sts., Boston 



Natural vs. Statute Law 

It is folly to attempt by statute law 
to prevent the operation of natural law. 
The highest of all natural laws ordains 
production of the largest possible 
-imount of the necessaries of life at the 
lowest cost, in order that all may 
have plenty. The industrial monopoly, 
rightly managed, can produce goods of 
all kinds cheaper than competing com- 
panies, with their waste investment in 
duplicated plants, salaries, interest, in- 
surance, etc., have ever done or ever 
can do. Can do it without cutting 
wages or lowering the living standard 
of its employees. Can, indeed, do it 
while raising wages above the level in 
competitive companies. We do not say 
it has, but we say it can. We say it 
can raise wages and cut prices below old 
competitive levels, by ceasing to draw 
off excessive owners' profits on watered 
stocks and bonds, and by means of ex- 
cessive salaries, inside grafts of one 
kind or another, and so on. 

Our trusts have undoubtedly effected 
enormous savings in production and 
distribution of the necessaries of life. 
But the fact that the trust masters have 
not shared these savings with the 
masses of the people does not disprove 
the fact that the labor-saving and 
money-saving machinery which they 
have created. — Frank Putnam. 



Life is a tender thing and is easily 
molested. There is always something 
that goes amiss. Vain vexations — vain 
sometimes, but always vexatious. The 
smallest and slightest impediments are 
the most piercing; and as little letters 
most tire the eyes, so do little affairs 
most disturb us. — Montaigne. 



"That man has spent all his life wast- 
ing his unquestionable talent and ignor- 
ing opportunities for success." "Yes," 
answered Miss Cayenne. "He has a pos- 
itive genius for wresting defeat from 
he jaws of victory." — Washington Star. 



326 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




An Interesting Solution of a 
Most Vexing Problem 

Your maid has left for the day. 

You have a small party of friends coming for 
the evening. 

You must serve the luncheon yourself. 

Wouldn't it be delightful if it could be served 
even better than the maid could serve it ? — IT 
CAN. 




THE IDEAL TABLE SERVANT 

solves the servant problem perfectly. Revolves 
and passes everything on the Table. Always 
ready and efficient. Serves all the meals. Makes 
a most attractive appearance and gives perfect 
service at all times. A handsome and useful 
companion in the parlor or den or on the side 
table at cards. The top is made of the finest 
French Plate Glass. The base, of classic design 
is heavily nickel plated and highly polished. 
Makes a different, attractive and useful Christ- 
mas, Wedding, Anniversary, or Birthday Gift. 
To enable you to appeciate the wonderful ad- 
vantages and beauty of a Servette we will send 
one to you 

ON TEN DAYS' FREE TRIAL 

The regular price of Servette is $15.00. To all 
sending $10.00, we will ship Servette prepaid on 
ten days' free trial in accordance with our guar- 
antee. This oflFer is limited. 

GUARANTEE: — Try it ten days— If not satisfied 
return at our expense and we will refund your money. 



BROOKLvy, N. Y. 
Gentlemen, . 

1 am delighted with the Serv- 
ette and will take ^eat pleabiire 
in recommending it whenever I 
have an opportunity. It is not 
only ornamental and unique, 
but a great convenience and I 
am sure any housewife would 
enjoy it. Alort sincerely, 

MollieG. Christian. 
Boston, Mass. 
Gentlemen, 

I want to tell you how much 
we are enjoying our Servette; 
niv wife remarked at the break- 
table this morning: " How did 
we ever get alone without it be- 
fore." It is all you claim for it 
and I hope it will meet with a 
tremendous sale. 

Very truly yours, 

A. J. Crockett, 
Mgr. Modern Friscilla. 

Port Chester, N, Y. 
Dear Sir. 

Enclosed find check for Serv- 
ette which I find splendid. 

Alla Nazimova. 



Atlantic City, N. J. 
Gentlemen, 

Servette is a success. The 
servant problem is solved. All 
you require IS a Servette. Shake 
hands with your waitress and 
bid her go, for the Servette will 
do her work, and do it without 
a mormur. It will pay for 
ITSELF IN A WEEK. The one we 
have is the silent member of our 
family. Merrilv voura, 

Marshall'P. Wilder. 

HuBBAKD Woods, III. 
Dear Sirs, 

Thank the man who invented 
Servette. It is a joy three times 
a day. Ada Ballenger. 

Miamsbukg.Ohio, 
Gentlemen, 

Are very well pleased with 
Servette and find it an excellent 
adjunct to my household. It 
does away with the intolerable 
nuisance of constantly stopping 
your own meal to wait on 
every one else. Sincerely. 

C. Wagnkr. 



When ordering state size of your dining table. 
McGRAW MFG. CO.. 50 Ea.t St., McCraw. N. Y. 

Endorsed by Good Houaekeeping Institute Serial No. 469 
Also Marion H Neil, Phila. School of Cooking 




ON 

BAKING 

DAY 



it's so hard 

to think of 

something new. You'll have a food that is 

both unusual and healthful if you make 

DROMEDARY DATE BREAD 

Mix 2 cups scalded milk, one-third cup sugar 
and 1 tablespoon salt. When lukewarm, add 
1 yeast cake mixed with one-fnurth cup luke- 
warm water: add 5 cups entire wheat flour 
and 1 cup chopped Dromedary Dates ; beat 
well. Allow to rise until double its bulk, 
knead lightly, divide into two buttered pans 
and again allow to rise. Bake in moderate 
oven one hour. 

This is only one of the almost endless variety 
of fine dishes and desserts to be made with 




From the Garden of Eden 

They are soft and luscious — the pick of the 
crop in Arabia's finest date gardens. They 
come to you fresh, moist and clean in our spe- 
cial dustproof package. An ideal confection 
and an easily digested food. 

Book of 100 Pruser Recipes 
sent free on.receipt of dealer's name. If dates 
not at your grocer or fruit store, send lOc for Special- 
Size Sample Package. Ask dealer also for 
Dromedary Figs, and especially DROME- 
DARY Fresh Keeping COCOANUT. Sample ' 
the Cocoanut free. 

THE HILLS BROS. CO. 
Dept. 6, Beach a 
Washington Sts. 
New York 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
327 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Reduce the High Cost of Living 

BY THE USE OF 

ROBERTS LIGHTNING 
MIXER 

Reduce your butter bill 
one-half ; Take one-half 
pound of butter, soften, as 
for cake, add a cupful of 
fresh milk, salt to taste 
and churn in the Mixer un- 
til stiff. This produces a 
rich, creamy substance 
equal to a pound of 
choicest butter of elegant 
flavor. 

Mixer also beats whites 
of eggs in one-half minute 
i; whips cream in one to three minutes with 
no spatter. 50c by mail postpaid. 

Jobbers, Retailers and Agents write us for 
discounts. Circulars free. 

BROAD ST., 

BOSTON. MASS. 




DORSEY MFG. CO., 



I 



BIG MONEY IN SONGS 

50 per cent if successful. Send 



ll tLi lj\.\ Poems. Sones, ir melodies today. 
may be able to write a biff seller. H. 
DugdaleCc.Dept. 225, Washington, D. C. 



IS vour 
Yoii 

Kirkua 



rheae trede-i 



CRES 



KIDNEY AND LIVI 

Makes 
Unlike other 

FiRwai 




very packafD 

Diet for 
Dyspeptics 



ES AND OBESITY 

very body. 

For book 

N.Y..U.$.ic 



DOMESTIC SCIENCE 

Home-Stvidly Courses 

Food, health, housekeeping, clothing, children. For home- 
makers, teachers and for well-paid positions. 
"The Profession of Home-Making," 100 page handbook. 
JP'RJS^. Bulletins: "Free Hand Cooking on Scientific 
Principles," 48 pages. 10 cents. " Food Values: Practical 
Methods in Dietetics," 5i pp. ill., 10 cents. 

American School of Home Economics, 503 W. f9th St Chicago, III. 



A Girton undergraduate, having in- 
advertently changed umbrellas with a 
fellow-student, is said to have evolved 
this note: "Miss presents her com- 
pliments to Miss and begs to say 

that she has an umbrella which isn't mine. 
So, if you have one that isn't hers, no 
doubt they are the ones." — Exchange. 



An Old Cambridge lady, noted for her 
old-time courtesy, was in an electric car 
holding on with some difficulty to a strap. 
As the car reached Central Square, the 
man seated in front of her rose ; and the 
lady, supposing he had vacated his seat 
for her convenience, acknowledged his 
kindness. "I don't care whether you set 
or stand," responded the fellow. "Fm 
going to git out!" And he elbowed his 
way through the throng. — Tribune. 



"I see," said Senator Sorghum, ''that 
they are still harping on that little sugar 
deal." "I'm afraid 'they are," replied 
his private secretary. "It simply goes 
to show," the senator went on, with a 
sigh of resignation, "how often a profit 
may be without honor." — Washington 
Star. 



An old Scotch fisherman was visited 
during his last illness by a clergyman,, 
who wore a close-fitting clerical waist- 
coat, which buttoned behind. The 
clergyman asked the old man if his mind 
was perfectly at ease. "Oo, ay, I'm a' 
richt ; but there's just ae thing that 
troubles me, and I dinna like to speak 
o't." "I am anxious to comfort you," 
replied the clergyman. "Tell me what 
perplexes you." "Weel, sir, it's just 
like this," said the old man, eagerly. "I 
canna for the life o' me mak' oot hoo 
ye manage tae get intae that westkit." 




Used by Leading Chefsand 



Eminent Teachers of Cookery. 



miE PALISADE MFG.CO. 353 CLINTON AVE, WEST HOBOKEN.N.Jc 



Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
328 ^ 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




QT^Nir^ us two NEW yearly Subscriptions at $1.00 each and we will re- 
►J-L-'Ji- ^ JL-^ new your own subscription one year free, as a premium. 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Massachusetts 




DEAVER 
BOARD 




Will You 
Build or 
Remodel? 

You should investigate 
the 41 advantages of 

PURE WOOD FIBRE 

Peaver. Poard 

Beaver Board is used instead of lath and 
plaster for walls and ceilings in every type of 
new or remodeled building. Because of its 
superior surface, for decorating, it makes un- 
necessary the use of wall paper. 

Send for our free book " Beaver Board and 
Its Uses," and learn all about durable, sani- 
tary economical and beautiful 

Beaver Board 
THE BEAVER COMPANIES 

UNITED STATES : 1018 Beaver Road. BuHalo. N . Y. 

CANADA: 1018 Wall Street. Beaverdale. Ottawa. Canada 
GREAT BRITAIN : 4 Southampton Row. London. W. C. 



Perfect Cooking 

With the Least Trouble 4 Expense 

The "CHAMBERS DUPLEX" Fireless 
Cooking Gas Range is the latest improved 
GAS RANGE, so made that it cooks oy re- 
tained heat (thefireless cooking principle) 
or in the ordinary way. It does the work 
of both a gas ranee and a fire- 
less cooker, but BETTER than 
either. 

Cooks the Most Savory Way. 
Food retains all the nutriment 
and flavor; Roasts Meats and 
Fowl brown and crisp outside; 
juicy and tender inside: Bakes 
Bread. Biscuits, Cake and Pies 
to perfection; Bakes Beans 
thoroughly and browns them 
beautifully; Boils vegetables, 
cereals, pot roasts, etc., beyond comparison, and the Gas 
is SHUT OFF most of the time. Broils and Fries equal 
to any other stove. 

Cooks the Most Economical Way: saves 70 per cent, 
of Gas on baking, roasting and boiling, 40 per cent of 
Labor. 30 per cent of Time. 

We let you try it for 15 days WITHOUT 
CHARGE; If its work is not satisfactory to 
you send it back. We will pay return freight. 
CASH OR EASY PAYMENT 

Send for Catalog of 20 sizes and styles ($20 to $180), or 
better yet, step in and let us show them to you. 

Domestic Equipment Co. 

36 W.Lake St. CHICAGO 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
329 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




A New Knife For Grape Fruit -'^"^^^TRAN^oEKyp'E"'' 

The blade of this knife is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered, curved just to the 
right angle and ground to a very keen edge, will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly around 
the edge and divide the fruit into segments ready for eating. 

The feature of the blade is the round end which prevents cutting through the outer skin. A grape fruit knife 
is a necessity as grape fruit are growing so rapidly in popularity as a breakfast fruit. 



For Sale by all dealers. Price 50 cents each. If not found at your dealers, upon 
receipt of price a knife will be sent to any address postpaid by the Manufacturer. 



THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. 



Winsted, Conn. 




Aluminum Initial 
Jelly Moulds 

In Holly Boxes make useful Xmas 
Gifts. All letters of the alphabet, also 
six handsome designs. Size (8 to the 
quart)50 cents a half or a ^1.00 a dozen, 
postage paid. If you will enclose card 
we will mail orders direct to your 
friends. Send for our illustrated price 
list of Aluminum Kitchen Novelties, 
all of which make splendid Xmas 
Presents, 

The Barnard Aluminum Co. 

30 Merchants Row BOSTON. MASS. 



Lessons in CooKin^ 



■THROUGH- 



PREPARATION OF MHALS 

Beginners easily become experts, experts get latest 
methods and ideas in our new home-study Course. 266 
graded lessons, illustrated. i2 Parts, each containing a 
week's menu, suitable for one month in the year, with 
detailed recipes and full directions for preparing and 
serving each meal as a whole. 

Food Economy, Nutritive Valae, Balance Diet 

Menus for All Occasions, Helpful Suiiifestions, 

Special Articles, Etc. 

Tri>V"P The Course bound in green waterproof 
lea therette. gold stamping, marbeled edges, 
Till Nov. 30 500 pp., half-tone plates —the Kitchen 
Companion DeLuxe. Sent postpaid 
on enrollment. Tuition for the correspondence instruc- 
tion. \% Parts in pamphlets, etc., is 50c a month until 
$8 50 iapaid (or J $1.00 a month till |8.00 is paid (or) ^7.50 
cash. 

Price for book alone, $2.00 cash (or) 50c a month till 
$2.50 is paid. Sent postpaid on approval on receipt of 
price or 1st payment of 50c in stamps. Money refunded 
if not satisfactory. Sample page* free. 

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS. 

503 W. 69th St., Chicago 



WANTED 

Boston Cooking School 

Magazines 

Vol. XII Number 7 

February 1908 

We will pay 20c 
each for Maga- 
zines of above date 
sent to us in good 
condition 

The Boston Cooking 
School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON, MASS. 




Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
330 



#^ 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



u 



WhSie House 



In every Btate and territory of the union. White 
House" Coffee has found thousands of enthusiastic 
friends. Critically has it been teste dan doom pared; 
and the universal decision is that — for perfection 
of quality, richness of flavor and undeviating 
uniformity — it truly has not an equal. Such 
a superb Coffee should surely interest you to the 
point of ordering it from your grocer — who can 
always easily obtain it. 

Sold only in i, 2, and 3 pound cans. Its 
purity, if label is unbroken, always guaranteed 



JUST AS GOOD AS OUR COFFEE, 
OUR SPLENDID "WHITE HOUSE' 



IS 



Vk^Si 



The United States of America T 



FOR TEACHERS OF COOKING 

Just Published 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking 

By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline. Mass. 

ClotK 272 Pages, Illustrated, $L00 net Postage, 8 cents 

PART of this book appeared serially in this magazine and met with such favor as to warrant 
its publication in book form. The chapters that were in the magazine have been rewritten 
and enlarged, and about as many more entirely new chapters (37 chapters in all) added, 
together with some dozen or more illustrations. 

The book is for the use of the teacher also for the use of pupils, as a text book. 
We do not see how any teacher of cooking can afford to be without this book. 

SEND FOR A COPY 



THE BOSTON COOKING -SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 

BOSTON. MASS. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
331 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




IM 



The Old 
Colony Pattern 

A Colonial Design of 
True Simplicity 

This new pattern combines the 
dignity of the older craftsmanship 
with the beauty that is the resuh 
of modern skill and improved 
methods. The pierced handles and 
the unusual finish — grey, with 
bowls, tines and bevel edges of 
the handles bright — are distinctive 
features. 

1847 ROGERS BROS, 

''Stlper Plate 
that Wears' 

is the only brand of silver plate 
with an unqualified guarantee that 
is backed by the actual test of 65 
years. It is not only the heaviest 
grade of silver plate, but our fin- 
ishing process makes it the most 
durable. Sold by leading 
dealers. Send for illustrated 
catalogue "Wt 8." 

INTERNATIONAL 
SILVER CO. 

Successor to 
Meriden Britannia Co. 
MERIDEN, CONN. 

New York San Francisco 
Chicago Hamilton, Canada 

The World's Largest Makers 
of Sterling Silver and Plate. 




Free Trial for Xmaj 

Delivered P'ree. Freight prepaid. Send It back' 
at our expense if not delighted. Piedmont 
Red Cedar Chests, Couches and Chifforobes. Greatest 
variety of beautiful designs. Protect furs and woolens ; 
fronr) moth, mice, dust and damp. Factory prices I 
direct to you. | 

Moth Proof Cedar Chest I 

Finest Christmas, birthday or wedding gift 

Send for 56-page catalog, illustrated; also book— | 
["Story of Red I 
Cedar"— and par- 
ticulars of our 
big free offer, all 



III', 



post-paid, free. 
Write today. 

PIEDMONT 
RED CEDAR 
CHEST CO. 

Dept. .59 

Statesville, N. C. 




BEAUTIFUL DINING ROOMS 

CLEAN SANITARY KITCHENS 

SPOTLESS WALLS AND 

GENERAL ATTRACTIVENESS RESULTS WHEN 

PLASTER60N WALL BOARD 

Is used in Buildin({ or Remodelinii 

Plaster?:on is vermin proof as well ae fireand Bound retarding. 

Where this wonderful wall board (the only Buccessful subbtt- 
tute for lath and plaeter) ie used, the rooms are Cooler in sum- 
mer and Warmer in winter. This is proved by actual test. 
The result is smaller coal bills during the Winter months and 
cooler rooms in Summer. 

Anyone can put Plastergon on. It may be applied to the stud- 
ding or nailed on over the lath and plaster of old rooms. 

The panel designs that may be obtained by using Plastergon 
are many and beautiful. 

IN A WORD 

Plastergon as an interior finish for homes, offices, factories, 
summer cottages or public buildings of any kind, has never been 
equalled for beauty, economy and efficiency. 

Plastergon is manufactured in Tonawanda, New York, by the 
Plastergon Wall Board Conipanv. 

"The Service Department" will furnish you, free of charge, 
compleie design and estimate for vour building or remodelling. 

DlBtribnted throughout the New England States by J. A. & W. 
Bird & Co. , 88 Pearl St. , Boston, Mass. 

Write to-day and ask them for sample and full information, 
or if not in that territory, send direct to manufacturers. 




!| 



MAGIC COVER 

niagic Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin; chemica 
treated and hygienic; recommended by leading teachers 
booking. By mail, 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

Fsmierly of F. A. WALKEB & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store In New Enfia 
410 Boylston St.. Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
332 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Why That Excellent Flavor? 

Because Shefford Snappy is produced in dairy districts famed for pure, rick milk; 
cured from f^ve months to a year by the Shefford process that breaks down the casein 
formation, making it the most digestible and finest flavored cheese you can buy. 



5wecr Nutty Flavor 



Do not be misled hy imita- 
tions of our Trade Name. "Snap- 
py " is your safeguard of the genuine. 

If your dealer cannot supply you , 
send us his name and 10c for one pack- 
age. $1 20 for one dozen, delivered pre- 
paid. 

Send for Free Book of Recipes 



Shefford- 



Trade 
Name 



t' SNAPPY 

CHEESE 




aiiclMomLebuft: 



unce she had her Bissell Swecoer. The drudgery is all 
sliminatedand the sweeping done quickly and thorough- 
y without raising a cloud of dust. 

BISSELUS 

"Cyco" BALL-BEARING 

Carpet Sweeper 

^'eighs but five or six pounds, is easily carried from room 
:o room, and when the sweeping is done requires no 
urther attention than the mere pressing of a lever — to 
;mpty the pans. No arduous and dusty cleaning out." 
lo cumbersome attachments, nothing to stumble over— 
lets ill a corner space 10x15 inches. Just a light, eflfec- 
:ive,silent little machine that has pleased over twelve 
nillion housewives during the last thirty-six years. Made 
n plainly practical styles with case of the staple cabi- 
let woods, up to the most ornate in design and finish. 
'rices $2 75 to $5.75. at all first-class dealers. 

Booklet, "Easy. Economical, Sanitary Sweeping." on 
•equest. 

BISSELL CARPET SWEEPER CO. 

Dept. 98, Grand Rapids, Mich. 

(Largest Exclusive Carpet Sweeper Manufac- 
turers in the World.) (32) 



Cmi/T^l/qi/q D^IRY Co., SYReLClfSE,/>i.Y 



SALT MACKEREL. 
CODFISH, ERESH LOBSTER 




Families who are fond of FISH can be supplied direct 
from GLOUCESTER, MASS.. by Frank E. Davis Fish Co.. 
with newly caught keepable OCEAN FISH choicer than 
any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We sell only to the CONSUMER DIRECT sending by 
EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY east 
of Kansas on orders above 13.00. 

YOU ARE CHOOSING and planning foods for your own 
table. Our fish are pure, appetizing and economical and we 
want you to try some, payment subject to your approval. 
Can you think of anything more likely to please your folks? 

SALT MACKEREL, fat. meaty, juicy fish, just landed by 
the fishing boats. They make a splendid appetizing break- 
fast or dinner dish. We clean them perfectly and pack in 
new brine so they will not spoil on your hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it. is white and boneless. A per- 
fect change from meat at much lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. 
Right fresh from the water, our lobsters are simply boiled and 
packed in PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come to 
you as the purest and safest lobster you can buy and the 
meat is as crisp and natural as if you took it from the shell 
yourself. 

You are constantly seeing attractive recipes for salads. 
chowders, creamed fish, sandwich fillings, chafing dish dain- 
ties, calling for Lobster. Crab, Shrimp. Clams, Salmon. Sar- 
dines, etc. Here are just the things ready to work with or 
to serve right from the can. They are put up to keep safely 
on your pantry shelf, for constant and emergency use 
With every order we send BOOK OF RECIPES 
for all our products. 

Our list tells how each kind offish is ^. 

put up. with the delivered price, so ^** 

you can choose just what you will te^* 4 

enjoy most. Send the coupon e* v^ 

for it now. ....- o^*'^*^*'* 

Let Glcmcester ie ,.■•' rPl!»<^'^v*^ 

jyour FtSk .Variei •••''^"A ^ V*^ =N^ 

andDavi^be .•••■ ^\^^ .<<>^ \«N^ 



your 
man. 



Fish 









tfi 



;>' 



^c^^ 



SVt« 



\\-i-' 



c,k6>' 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
333 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




Home Made Candies 



^^ri 



n. 



00 



are wholesome and can 
be made with " profes- 
sional" accuracy by a 

Home Candy Makers' 

THERMOMETER postpaid 

Recipe Book Free tvith each Thermometer telling how to 
get best results every time — no failures. An ideal 
Christmas gift. If not at your dealer's, write us 
direct. 

TAYLOR INSTRUMENT COMPANIES. 

97 Hague Street Rochester, N.Y. 

JVorld's Largett Makers of Thermometers for j4tl Purposes '^ 



DR. WILEY ON BREAD 
** Measured by actual nutritive power, 
there is no other complete ration which in 
economy can compau'e with bread/* 

EAT BREAD MADE WITH 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Write for Recipe Book— FREE 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Waahington Street New York City 



PREMIUMS FOR SEVEN SUBSCRIPTIONS 

To any present subscriber who sends us seven (7) new yearly subscriptions at $ 1 .00 each, we 
will send either the CHAFER or the CASSEROLE (both for 14 subscriptions) dii 



Our Offer! 



scribed below as a premium for securing and sending us 
the subscriptions. Elxpress charges to be paid by the 



lecciver. 



Every One "WKo Has Received One 

of tKese CKafin^ DisHes Has 

Been Delighted WitK It 

and surprised how easily the necessary subscriptions 
were secured. Have yon obtained one yet? If not, 
start today to get the subscriptions, and within three or 
four days you will be enjosing the dish. 

The Chafer is a full-size, three pint, nickel dish, with 
all the latest improvements, including handles on the hot 
water pan. It is the dish that sells for $5.00. 




fei*A" 






Address 



Long slow cooking, at a gentle heat, 
best conserves the nutritive elements 
of food and the flavors that render It 
most agreeable. The earthen Casserole 
makes this method possible. Then, 
too, the Casserole is the serving as 
well as the cooking dish. The house<> 
keeper who is desirious of setting a 
pleasing table without an undue ex- 
penditure of time or money will find 
a Casserole almost indispensable. 

The Casseroles We Offer 

are made by one of the leading man- 
ufacturers of the country for their 
regular trade. The dish is a three- 
pint one, round, eight inches in dia- 
meter, fitted with two covers, (an 
earthenware cover for the oven and a 
nickel plated one for the table) and 
a nickel plated frame. It is such an 
outfit as retails for five or six dollars. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine, Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
334 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Brown Your Hair 

With Wa lnut Tint H air Stain 

Light Spots, Gray or Streaked 
Hair Quickly Stained to a 
Beautiful Brown. 

Trial Bottle Sent Upon Request. 

Nothing gives a woman the 
appearance of age more surely 
than gray, streaked or faded hair. 
Just a touch now and then with 
Mrs. Potter's Walnut -Tint Hair 
Stain, and presto ! Youth has 
returned again. 

No one would ever suspect that 
you stained your hair after you 
use this splendid preparation. It 
does not rub off as dyes do, and 
leaves the hair nice and fluffy, 
with a beautiful brown color. 

Ilonly takes you a few minutes 
once a month to apply Mis. Pot- 
ter's Walnut-Tint Hair Stain with 
your comb. Stains only the hair, 
is easily and quickly applied, and 
it is free from lead, sulphur, silver 
and all metallic compounds. Has 
odor, no sediment, no grease. One 
bottle of Mrs. Potters Walnut-Tint 
HairStainshould last you ayear. Sells 
for fl.OO per bottle at first-class drug- 
gists. We guarantee satisfaction. 
Send vour name and address, and en- 
close 25 cents (stamps or coin) and we will mail you, charges 
prepaid, a trial package, in plain, sealed wrapper, with val- 
uable booklet on hair. Mrs Potter's Hygienic Supply Co.. 
17S1 Groton Bldg,. Cincinnati, O. 




A n/IWion Houseyyives 
Constant Users 



t 



There is one silver polish that is 
time-tested and of proven superi- 
oritv. That is 



-s 



ELECTRO 
SILICON 



Silver 
Polish 



Used the world over for nearly 50 years — a 
million housewives have learned there's 
nothing equal to it for removing tarnish 
and imparting a beautiful lustre to Gold, 
Silver, Aluminum, Xickel, Brass, and all 
fine metals. Send address for 

FREE SAMPLE 

Or, 15c. in stamps for full sized box, 
post-paid. 
The Electro Silicon Co.. 

30 Cliff Street, New York City. 

Sold by Grocers and 

Druggists Everywhere. 




NEW and REVISED 

Practical Cooking and Serving 

by JANET McHENzie: hill 

Has been revised lately and many new recipes and illvistra- 

tions added, and 

The PRICE REDUCED TO »1:^ Net, Postage 20c 

so tKat everyone may no^w sec\ire a copy of tHe most com- 
plete and serviceable cooK booK p\jiblisbed. 



The recipes in this book have been tested by 
years of use at the author's home table, and by 
her pupils North and South, East and West. 

The Composition of Foods is given at the 

head of chapters in which the several foods are 

specifically described. 

From a recent letter to the author: "I already have your 'Practical Cooking: and Serving' and find it invalu- 
able. I do not know any book or collection of books to take its place, and I have been using about twenty." 

Wb will mail "Practical Cooking and Serving" on receipt of price, or as a premium 
for three new yearly subscriptions to the magazine at $1.00 each. Address all orders to 

The BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. BOSTON, MASS. 



It holds recipes for both inexpensive and 
elaborate dishes. 

It is fully and finely illustrated. 

The directions for putting materials together 
are explicit and reliable. 

The "REASON WHY" things are done is 
given. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
335 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 




' Do not hesitate to wear your fine 
laces, nor to buy those you admire, for 
fear they will not stand washing. It is 
true that they w^ill not survive ordinary 
w^ashing methods, but when washed 
carefully with Ivory Soap, they seem 
to grow more beautiful w^ith use. 

Those w^ho make lace, and those who 
sell it, know the value of Ivory Soap for 
this purpose. They find that it cleanses 



perfectly even the most badly soiled 
pieces, leaving them like new in texture 
and clearer than ever in color, w^ithout 
weakening a single thread. 

Ivory Soap does this because it is 
made of the highest grade materials, 
pure and mild — and because it contains 
no "free" (uncombined) alkali, nothing 
to injure anything which water itself 
will not harm. 



To Wash Real Lace Collars and Other Fine Laces 

Baste the lace to a piece of clean white muslin so that each point and picot is held firmly in place. Make 
a good lather of Ivory Soap and warm water and let the lace soak for thirty minutes. Then alternately press 
between hands and dip in the water until clean. Do not rub. If necessary, use a second clean suds of Ivory 
Soap. Then rinse in clear waters, next in blue w^ater and lastly in a thin starch. Tack on a board, stretching 
the muslin evenly. When nearly dry, remove from the board and press thoroughly through the muslin. 
Do not put the iron on the lace. When dry, cut the basting threads and you will find the lace like new. 



IVORY SOAP 99 




44 
100 /'^ 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
336 



Buffet Suppers for Christmastide 



Chicken Bouillon in Cups 

Creamed Oysters in Chafing Dishes 

Galantine of Chicken Chaudfroid 

Sliced Thin 

Celery or Cress Salad 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Almond Meringues 

Blitzen Kuchen 

Macaroons Bonbons 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

II 

Chicken a la King in Chafing Dishes 

Olives Celery 

Cold Baked Ham, Sliced Thin 

Celery-and-Cranberry Salad 

Buttered Rolls 

Assorted Sandwiches 

Frozen Egg Nogg 

Squares of Chocolate Nougat Cake 

Christmas Candy 

Tea 

III 

Hot Chicken Salad in Chafing Dishes 

(Chicken, peas, pimentos in hot sauce) 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuit 

Lobster Salad 

OHves Celery 

Frozen Pudding 

Candy Assorted Nuts 

Grape Juice 



The 

Boston Cooking- School Magazine 



Vol. XVII 



DECEMBER, 1912 



No. 5 



Distributing Christmas Gifts 



By M. B. H. 



TIMES have changed since Little 
Jack Horner sat eating his 
Christmas pie alone. Jack has 
grown generous, the pie is large with 
plums for all. Its name is legion, its 
form of infinite variety, but whether it is 
the stocking under the mantle shelf or 
the time honored Christmas tree, the di- 
viding of it is of such entertainment that 
it should be a prominent feature of the 
program of every Christmas hostess. 

The element of surprise is essential 
and a Christmas hunt is always exciting. 
The clue, given at the breakfast table, 
takes the shape of an English walnut,, 
inside of which is a Delphic utterance, 
written upon a slip of paper. The di- 
rections vary, but all should be in jingles. 
Here are a few which might be used. 

Turn squarely west, 

Then climb the stair, 
Walk through two rooms, 

And see what's there. 

Pass the parlor, 
Shun the hall. 

Seek the summer kitchen wall. 
Behind the bookcase you shall find, 
The very thing you have in mind. 

It adds to the fun if the directions lead 
first to other rhymes, three or four being 
followed up before the hidden treasure 
is finally acquired. 



The cobweb party is not new, but is 
always good sport and is especially 
adaptable to Christmas festivities. The 
tangled threads may lead to the laden 
tree or to the bulging stocking, hanging 
from the mantle shelf and hidden behind 
a mass of greenery. 

A pleasant variation in giving from the 
tree is to assign to each guest a candle, 
which must be burned before it will tell 
where the gifts are hidden. In the socket 




A SIMPLE GIFT 



347 



348 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of each candle is the folded paper with 
its cryptic message. The flame must 
burn as low as possible before the paper 
is taken out and excitement runs high, as 
one after another starts off, while the 
others impatiently wait their marching 
orders. This hunt should take place 
Christmas eve, for, of course, the candles 
are prettier at night and it is out of the 
question to wait through Christmas day 
without a gift. 

Still another hunt takes the form of a 
polar expedition and is great sport in the 
country where there is snow enough for 
it. Immediately after breakfast the en- 
tire party sets out for a walk. When 
they turn toward home, the host or some 
one selected as guide informs them that 
supplies are hidden along the way in 
various caches and they will do well to 
look out for them. Each cache is merely 
a mound of snow covering lightly a quan- 
tity of gift packages, securely wrapped. 
There need be only three or four 
mounds and the gifts should be divided 
promiscuously among them. If the walk 



has been long, the first cache to be found, 
— that is, the one farthest from home, — 
may hide a box of cookies, which will be 
hailed joyfully and will make the gifts 
in the next cache an even greater sur- 
prise. 

The last cache to be reached may be 
the centerpiece on the dining table. Here 
it should be of cotton glittering with dia- 
mond dust, with the pole rising from the 
middle of it, a fat, squatty pole with a 
jolly Santa Claus atop. 

Small gifts may be concealed in a Jack 
Horner pie, brought to the table when 
dinner is finished. Choose a deep, round 
pan of a size to fit the number of the 
party and put into it the presents, each 
daintily wrapped and marked with the 
name of the one to receive it. Then 
cover the top with brown paper, marked 
with pencil lines into as many pie sections 
as are needed. Draw the paper firmly 
over the edge of the pan, tie securely 
with a cord, and drape the outside with 
bright red crepe paper. Or, instead of 
having the red ruffle, the pie may be 




QUIET HOUR AFTER DINNER 



DISTRIBUTING CHRISTMAS GIFTS 



349 




CHRISTMAS GAMES 



served on a large wooden platter and sur- 
rounded with holly, piled high, to conceal 
the sides of the pan. Lay a carving knife 
and a large spoon on top and let each one 
cut his own piece. This is an excellent 
way to distribute joke gifts or some 
choice bit of jewelry, long coveted and 
hardly expected. 

A gathering of book lovers, may be 
told they are to receive only books this 
year and each in his allotted space may 
find apparently nothing but a pile of lit- 
erature. But closer scrutiny reveals 
each book to be a pasteboard case, cut 
and lettered crudely or cleverly — art is 
no special object — to represent a binding. 
Appropriate titles are numberless. The 
contests of The Wrong Box should prove 
to be for quite another person, from the 
one named on the outside. Other ap- 
propriate titles are : Bitter Sweet, a box 
of chocolates ; The Circle, a ring or a 
bracelet; Juvenal, a doll. 
1 To add to the fun the opening of the 



packages may be deferred while the com- 
pany guess the contents from the titles. 

Going to the postoffice is another novel 
method of distribution. Paste-board and 
brown paper, aided by judicious grouping 
of chairs and tables, easily transform a 
room into a postoffice, and a wisely se- 
lected postmaster may make the collec- 
tion of mail an occasion of much merri- 
ment. Have general delivery and lock 
boxes, and at the general delivery win- 
dow see that each person is properly 
identified. 

Hobbies afiford excellent mounts for 
Christmas gifts. The motorist may be 
directed to the garage, to find his pack- 
ages stowed away in an automobile. 
Gifts for the aviation enthusiast may 
dangle as ballast from a toy aeroplane. 
The one who raises chickens must look 
under a coop or search for a hidden nest. 
Opportunities for fun are endless and the 
spirit of Christmas jollity can never be 
overdone. 



350 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



■j^ ^j*.--**---**---^-. 



***•-. 




•'THE FORD," BY JOHN CONSTABLE 
From the CoUectiofi of Mr. T. Henry Sweetifig, Philadelphia, 

Many of our readers will remember this beautiful picture, which ap- 
peared in the October number of the Magazine, among the illustrations in Mrs. 
Estelle M. Kuril's article on 'Tictures in the Home and Home Pictures." We 
reproduce it, with the explanation that we omitted last month to mark it copy- 
righted. Mr. Sweeting sends us this interesting story^ in connection with the 
original painting in his possession. John Constable gave the painting to a 
friend and neighbor at Hampstead about 1830. This friend, a Mr. Hunt, 
afterwards emigrated to America, and settled in Philadelphia. After his death, 
Mr. Sweeting acquired the painting from Mr. Hunt's son. Rather amusingly 
Mr. Hunt, Jr., used always to think of the painter as a policeman, who is often 
called constable in England. — Editor 



My Spoon Box 

By Mantie L. Hunter 



WE gathered, thirteen of us 
counting the conductor, in 
the court yard adjoining the 
quaint old inn at Mansfield, and climbed 
into the waiting coach. The driver 
flourished his whip, the worn old paving 



stones sang "clack-a-ty-clack," and the 
three horses carried us out and away on 
an all day ride through the Dukeries. 

After some two hours driving past in- 1 
comparable green lawns, through Span- 
ish chestnut groves, and under the shadel 



MY SPOOX BOX 



351 



of great English oaks, the conductor 
said to the driver: 

"When will we reach a village or an 
inn where we can get luncheon?" 

"Not till late in the afternoon when 
the drive is over," was the reply. 

Professor Farwell, the conductor, 
looked so blank and perplexed, that some 
of us tittered — he had so prided himself 
on making no mistakes — while those who 
did not like him looked unutterable 
things. No conductor ever lived who 
could scurry twelve w^omen through Eu- 
rope and please them all, no matter how 
wide he spread his protecting wings nor 
how violently he fluttered them. 

"I don't know what we shall do for 
something to eat," he said. "\\'e should 
have brought a luncheon with us. I 
have never taken a party through here 
before. I supposed, of course, there 
would be a village or an inn some- 
where." 

"There are clusters of houses" said the 
driver, "but they belong to the Duke of 
Portland and are occupied by his ten- 
ants. We won't see an inn the whole 
day." 

"Never mind," said the Optimist, "a 
fast will do us good. \\t have been 
eating entirely too much — too many long 
course dinners." 

"I wish I had eaten another roll and 
called for more coffee," complained the 
kicker — you know, there always is a 



kicker — "I feel faint now I am so hun- 
gry." 

The Professor looked so dejected and 
some of us so wickedly gleeful, that the 
driver came to the rescue. 

*T know a woman at the next lodge," 
said he, "where we stop to see the gar- 
dens and to go to Welbeck Abbey, who, 
perhaps, will give you bread and butter 
and tea." 

"Good !" exclaimed the Optimist, "it 
will be a positive delight to get a one- 
course luncheon. English tea is always 
good and perhaps she'll give us jam." 

"Alay be she will," returned the driver, 
"she's a famous jam-maker." 

"Bread and tea are awfully indigesti- 
ble ; at least, they never agree with me" 
sighed the Kicker. 

"Well," tartly returned the Professor, 
"you'll have to make the best of it this 
time. I think Til make some inquiries 
before I start you folks on another 
coaching trip." 

It was a charming little cottage before 
which we pulled up. When Professor 
Farwell came out from his quest, he 
waved his hands and shouted, "Eggs! 
W^e're going to have boiled eggs, too." 

"Thank heaven," some one exclaimed, 
"that thev're not to be omleted or scram- 
bled!" 

With continental luncheons but two 
weeks in our wake, we chorused 
"Amen !" 




THE SPOON BOX 



352 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



*'And jam?" queried the Optimist. 
"Ye5, and jam — raspberry jam," he re- 
plied. 

Of course, it was beginning to rain by 
this time. There was something about 
our cHmbing into a coach that seemed 
to precipitate moisture. It may have 
been the clamor and confusion, or, per- 
haps, the smoke arising from the battle 
over seats. Anyway it came. The con- 
ductor said he would bet all he was worth 
— I think it couldn't have been much — 
that he could break the greatest drought 
ever known just by piling us into a 
coach and starting it across country. 

We picked our way over the wet 
gravel to the famous kitchen gardens, 
which we should have enjoyed immense- 
ly, had it not been for the rain which 
by this time was almost a downpour, 
instead of the usual misty drizzle. 

"Look at those poor tortured pear 
trees," said the Tender-hearted One, 
**Why don't they let them grow naturally, 
instead of making vines of them ?" 

*Tt's better to be unnatural and warm 
and fruitful, than natural and frozen 
and barren," returned someone. ''See 
how loaded they are with fruit and how 
sheltered against that brick wall." 

But it was too wet to go far, so we 
retraced our steps to the riding school. 
Once under the great roof we shook the 
rain drops off our plumage much as a 
floek of geese might do, while the Pro- 
fessor contended himself with shaking 
his umbrella. 

"You can go to the Abbey through the 
underground passage," said the caretaker. 
"There is an entrance here in this build- 
ing." 

I am not much of a pedestrian and not 
especially fond of ducal residences, so, 
being cold, I concluded to return to the 
cottage and await the remainder of the 
party there. 

It was a dear, two-roomed Gothic af- 
fair. The motherly, middle-aged woman, 
who responded to my knock, said : 

"Dear heart, but you're damp. Don't 
you want to come out to the kitchen fire 



and get dry?" 

I gladly accepted the invitation and 
for the first time found myself in an 
English kitchen. It was something like 
twelve feet square with a hob-grate at 
one side. In the center was the grate 
full of glowing coals, while on either 
side were hobs upon which to cook and 
underneath the hobs were ovens. On 
the mantel above were earthenware 
mugs and fancy tin canisters. Nothing 
cheerier could be imagined. I contrasted 
that gladdening fire with the 'funeral 
boxes upon which our working men's 
wives cook, and my American pride went 
down a notch. 

While I toasted myself in front of 
the fire, I chatted with the woman and 
learned many things concerning dukes 
and their doings, and about English la- 
borers and their woes. 

When my skirts were dry and my body 
warm, I went into the front room, which 
was modestly but comfortably furnished, 
and stretched myself on a couch from' 
which I watched the woman prepare for 
our luncheon. She put up the leaves of 
two small tables, spread white cloths 
over them, and then from a cupboard 
took down cups and plates. I thanked 
heaven we were not to be seated at one 
table. There could be no dire predict- 
ions from the Superstitious One this 
time. When she began placing the 
spoons, the box from which she took 
them caught my eye. I started upright 
and exclaimed : 

"Oh, what a pretty box! Do let me 
see it." 

It was oblong, looked like solid brass, 
and was decorated on top with a gor- 
geous peacock, and on the sides with a 
flight of birds, all done in mosaic effect. 
W hile it was in a good state of preserva- 
tion, it looked as though it might have 
come out of the ark. 

"Has" — my voice fairly shook — "it 
been in your family a long time?" 

"Yes, a good while," she replied. "And 
you like it? You think it is pretty?" 

"Oh, yes !" I said in a hushed voice. 



MY SPOON BOX 



353 



"It's wonderful." 

"You may have it, if you want it," 
she said. 

I gasped and lay down again. Had 
I been in Spain, I would have known 
what she meant. But this was England. 
Possibly she was in earnest. I sat up 
again. 

"Do you mean you'll give it to me? 
To take home with me?" 

"Yes, wait till I find something to put 
my spoons in." 

I took it and fumbled in my purse 
for a shilling, which she accepted with 
seeming reluctance. I asked for a paper 
and some twine and hastily wrapped up 
the box. I would whet the curiosity of 
my companions before I displayed my 
treasure. 

About this time they came trooping in, 
tired and damp and draggled. They had 
walked back through the park. 

"It's a mighty good thing you didn't 
try it," said the Professor, "you'd never 
have made it in the world." 

"Yes, it is a good thing," I returned, 
giving my precious package a surrepti- 
tious pat. 

Then we gathered about the tables up- 
on which were eggs boiled in their shells, 
slices of bread spread with butter — good 
butter too — dishes of jam, and fragrant 
tea brewing in a brown earthenware pot. 
It was a meal fit for the gods. We were 
hungry and it was so dififerent from 
tedious hotel luncheons. We felt like 
annihilating the Kicker, when she 
doubted the freshness of the eggs; and, 
later, we made sarcastic comments upon 
the number she had eaten. We con- 
sumed all the jam and called for more, 
and were given gooseberry instead of 
raspberry; then we quarreled over the 
merits of our favorite like a lot of ir- 
responsible school children. That simple 
luncheon, in the cheery little room with 
the gray rain falling outside, has lingered 
in my memory with a sweeter flavor than 
that of any other eaten during a long 
delightful summer. 

When we were ready to leave, they 



discovered I was carrying an extra pack- 
age and I was besieged with questions. 

"It's the family spoon box that the 
woman gave me," I announced with a 
superior air. 

"Gave you?" gasped the Collector, — 
there always is a collector — "I wondered 
why you disliked walking so much to- 
day." She was not very fond of me at 
any time; at that moment she positively 
hated me. 

I could not trust my treasure to any 
one but the Conductor while I climbed 
the coach ladder, and during the whole 
afternoon I held it tenderly in my arms. 
Now that I am nearing the end of my 
story I am almost sorry I began. But 
I will be brave and go on to the bitter 
end. 

When we reached the station at Edwin- 
stowe, we found we had something like 
an hour to wait. During that time they 
begged and besieged me for a glimpse 
of my spoon box. But I was firm ; the 
train might come before I could get it 
rewrapped ; the damp air might injure 
it; or, if it were seen by strangers, it 
might be stolen. When we were seated 
in the car, which was one of those saloon 
afifairs with the seats running around 
the sides, my particular chum held out 
an insinuating hand and whispered : 

"Let me take just one peep at it. 
Please do." 

I glanced about the car. Every eye 
was fastened upon us. I thought how 
much they appeared like a lot of old cats 
ready to pounce upon a mouse. Their 
curiosity had evidently reached the razor 
edge for which I had been waiting. I 
could not pay ofif some old scores with- 
out that kind of an edge. I let the pack- 
age slip out of my grasp. 

My chum hastily unwrapped it and 
looked the box over. Then she grew 
red in the face with something that 
seemed suspiciously like mirth. She 
handed the box back to me with the 
whispered injunction: 

"Don't let them see it till you get hold 
of some sapolio." 



354 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



I did not know what she meant, but I 
knew she was a friend, so I hastened to 
cover it. But I was too late ; the Col- 
lector had snatched it. She devoured it 
with greedy eyes till she came to the 
bottom — collectors never miss the bottom 
of things — when she shrieked : 

"It's nothing but a cracker box! 
Listen : 'The London Biscuit Company, 
Limited.' " 

''Yes," said the Professor's judicial 
voice, ''they have a fashion over here 
of putting up crackers in fancy boxes." 

Then they doubled up and writhed 
with laughter, till I thought they re- 
sembled hyenas more than cats. 

But I never go down without a strug- 
gle. "It's the maker's name that renders 
any old thing valuable," I said. "Don't 
you know about old china? I have a 
plate at home that would lose nine-tenths 
of its value, if the name of Adams was 



obliterated from it." 

"But the National Biscuit Company," 
gurgled the Silly One. | 

"It isn't the National Biscuit Com- 
pany," I snapped. "It's the London Bis- 
cuit Company, and they've been making 
biscuits in London as long as they have 
china in Staffordshire." 

That was a poser. They looked so 
doubtful and perplexed that my chum 
and I exploded with laughter. For hours 
after, every time we caught each other's 
eye we would go off in a perfect gale of 
merriment. 

To this day the others, barring possi- 
bly the Professor, do not know whether 
I tried to sell them or was sold myself. 
But I know, and my chum knows. On 
every anniversary of that day she sends 
me a cake of sapolio, inclosed in a box 
that is decorated with a strutting pea- 
cock. 



A Berlin Christmas 

By Helen V. Frost 



BERLIN was a changed city during 
the two weeks that preceded 
Christmas. The holiday spirit, 
like a real personality, dominated its 
dignified streets and its staid populace. 
Shops that formerly had closed decor- 
ously at six o'clock now glowed many- 
lighted through the evening hours. On 
Sunday, too, the church-going throng 
was jostled at every turn by a crowd 
of package-laden shoppers, pushing their 
way into stores, transformed from well- 
ordered lines of counters into a huddled 
mass of holiday goods. 

The Irrepressible, whose musical train- 
ing was helping to swell the coffers of 
a famous German composer, pulled my 
arm vigorously as I gazed amazed at the 
Sunday business debut of my favorite 
shopping place. 

"Let's go in and buy something," she 
pleaded, "just to see how it feels to shop 
on Sunday." 



So into the crowded entrance we 
pushed with a guilty Bohemian sensa- 
tion, plainly not shared by our fellow 
shoppers. It was my first look at the 
Christmas ; I saw spread before me an 
exhibit of the United Kingdoms of the 
Fatherland. From Niirnberg, from the 
Thuringian forests, from Westphalia, 
from places whose curious names re- 
called the pages of my long unused 
geography, had been brought the native 
wares, presided over, for the most part, 
by some serious, wise-eyed person in the 
costume of the place whose products she 
was offering. 

In a corner sat a sober, peasant wo- 
man, whose dignity was strangely at 
variance with her bizarre costume. She 
wore a short, black skirt, very full, white 
stockings and heavy-soled, black leather 
slippers, broad enough to fit easily the 
frankly wide feet ; a gay flowered bodice, 
opening fichu-like and bordered with 



i 

i 



HER CHANGE OF HEART 



3: 



fringe, and a bright-colored, peaked cap. 

The hurrying crowd was kept back by 
a quick-witted saleswoman, while she of 
the fancy costume worked untroubled 
at a small loom, her dexterous shuttle 
weaving the heavy flax into square pieces 
of cloth like table covers, working into 
them, in multitudinous crosses, gay de- 
signs of red and blue cotton. Mindful 
of a blue and white bedroom across too 
many miles of uncertain water, I bought, 
for 62 cents, a blue-crossed cover of in- 
credible heaviness, firmly believing the 
voluble assurance of the clever sales- 
woman, who told me that it would wear 
forever. 

The Irrepressible, so frankly American 
in her smartly tailored suit and hat, held 
up a red-starred cover and began labo- 
riously : '* Bitte wie viel/' — to which 
our red-cheeked Fraulein answered in 
remarkably good English, **Forty-eight 
cents. Miss, of your money, we say 
:^'wei mark." 

We should have liked to buy direct 
from the spinner, but she of the festive 
garb and the serious face, did not conde- 
scend to the duties of sales-woman ; her's 
was the interest of creating. 

We saw small clocks from Wurtten- 
berg, the little kingdom to which Na- 
poleon gave its first real king. These 
clocks had roughly carved wooden cases, 
wooden faces, figures and hands, weights 
for winding, all in running order, and all 
for something less than fifty cents of 
American money. Pitifully small rec- 
ompense for him, whose patient hands 
had wrought it, yet he, in his simple 
living, might pity us with our compli- 
cated and dearly-bought necessities. 

I mentally compared the Christmas 
goods before me, with the display which 
I knew must be filling the department 
stores of my home city. The nameless 
satin-covered, ribbon-tied articles, with 
which we insult the holiday season, were 
here, also, to be seen, but they were far 
less in evidence in Berlin than in New 
York. Here were yards of dress goods, 
bundles of wholesome flannels, packages 



of stockings, shirtwaists, flannel petti- 
coats, made for the woman who had 
never dreamed of a sheath-skirt ; neck- 
ties, gloves, and mittens — colors of every 
sort, but always dominated by red, be- 
loved of Germany. 

In our progress from the door of the 
great store, we had been drawn into a 
human maelstrom ; here, strident of voice 
and vociferous of gesture, the German 
matron strove with her sisters. The Irre- 
pressible, who adores the football of her 
native land, pointed to a huge daughter 
of Deutchland, who was pushing, relent- 
lessly, through the crowd, holding fast 
the hand of a demure little Madchen with 
yellow braids. 

"Let's follow our interference !" she 
said, briefly, and we moved rapidly down 
the field, in the wake of this lusty full- 
back, to a goal of her own choosing. It 
was not our desire to return to the flannel 
counter, but there she led us, and we 
stopped, perforce, while she fingered a 
bundle of hideous red and black checked 
woolen material, and asked its price. 

"Drei Mark," answered the clerk, and 
added, ingratiatingly, "IVunderschon!" 

Our Amazon annihilated her with a 
look: ''Drei Mark!" she answered, dis- 
dainfully, ''Mein GottT And we fol- 
lowed our guide to pastures new. 

But small Germany, die kinder, were 
not thus to be made sensible ; the yellow- 
haired child murmured something, to us 
unintelligible ; the stern face above her 
melted into kindliness, and we turned 
briskly to a paradise of dolls. They filled 
show-cases; they hung from lines, were 
ta-cked to pillars; regiments of soldierly 
dolls stood on the counters — dolls ran 
riot, dolls small and large, and of every 
nation ; Holland and Norway knocked el- 
bows, the native costumes constrasting 
prettily; French and Italian dolls, many 
of them moving by automatic jerks. 
Here were lions, tigers, monkeys, ele- 
phants, even surprisingly life-like snakes, 
all protected by signs, which urged the 
spectator not to feed, or tease, or other- 
wise to annoy. 



356 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Every store had a huge tree, hghted 
and decorated with amazing collections 
of tinsel and gay trimmings. The broad 
Berlin streets were lined with Christ- 
mas trees ; they were for sale on every 
side; they banked, in picturesque fashion, 
even the ugly props of the elevated road, 
and made them beautiful. Small doubt 
that ample provision had been made to 
meet the national demand, a Christmas 
tree for every home. 

These trees were brought from the 
Black and Thuringian Forests, and are 
of very uniform size, since the prudent 
government permits only the cutting of 
specified trees, the forest wardens regu- 
larly planting to the number cut, thus 
providing for an endless succession of 
Christmas trees, while guarding against 
the denuding of the beautiful forests. 

The vendors, too, suddenly began to 
occupy the streets ; dignified Leipsicer 
Platz was quite transformed ; carts of 
sweets, of pop-corn and of toys. The 
trifles that overflowed these carts were 
made of wood, or of tin, little things 
within reach of the poor, amazing values 
for a Pfennig, riches unbounded for a 
Mark. 

The holiday crowd pushed and hurried 
for a fortnight, and until the afternoon 
before Christmas Eve, when, lo! vve 
walked through stores that were practi- 
cally deserted, walked unjostled to the 
lunch counter of our favorite store, 
where we found our Apfel Kuchen "mit 
oder ohne," the brief, invariable ques- 
tion as the ladle of whipped cream Avas 
poised above the dainty. Even the ticket 
office in the next aisle had no waiting 
line ; we, and we alone, purchased tickets 
for theatre and opera. 

The sudden quiet was explained ; fam- 
ilies had gathered together for their 
Christmas rites; it remained for us, the 
unattached and impious outlanders, to 
haunt street and shop. With something 
of the haste that impels the departure of 
the guest, who finds he is the last to take 
his leave, we turned towards the Pension, 
our only home in thisgreat Berlin. True, 



our official representative was holding 
open house for all Americans, and the 
American Church was giving all com- 
patriots a welcome. 

"Never again," said the Irrepressible, 
for once a trifle subdued, "never again 
away from home at Christmas, but since 
we're here, we'll be as German as the 
best of them." 

In a mutual attempt at cheerfulness, 
we stopped at a festive-looking bakery, 
where, out of compliment to the Irrepres- 
sible's youth, I bought for her a large 
gingerbread doll, with trimmings of gilt 
paper. She rashly purchased for me a 
collection of marzipan vegetables, yellow 
carrots and toothsome brown potatoes 
predominating. 

At the Pension, all was bustle and 
preparation. For several days we had 
sufifered an orgy of Christmas house- 
cleaning, and it was certain that "union" 
hours had not prevailed in the kitchen, 
since far into the night we could smell 
new and attractive odors from the oven, 
where pfeffer nuts, highly spiced little 
cakes, and glorified gingerbread, were in 
the making. 

Christmas morning we ate our Fruh- 
stuck at half past seven, an hour before 
the usual time. A sociable little meal 
was our breakfast, for the Irrepressible 
was given to slipping across the hall 
from her room to join me, and we sup- 
plemented the simple coffee and rolls of 
the Pension, with fruit, jam, and Kuchen. 
The new maid, fresh from a Grunewald 
farm, clattering painfully in her unaccus- 
tomed store shoes, was so startled by our 
hearty and united ''Froeliche Weinacht," 
that she put down the hot milk jar on top 
of the rolls and fled. 

We were ready for the eight-o'clock 
service at the Cathedral, the vast, much- 
decorated Don, with its very bad acoustic 
properties. Here the august Kaiser has 
chosen his resting-place ; he will yet lie in 
state beneath its altar, disregarding the 
famous HohenzoUern tombs at Char- 
lottenBurg. The great church was 
crowded to standing room, a surprising 



A BERLIN CHRISTMAS 



357 



preponderance of men in the congrega- 
tion; practically the only empty space, 
was the royal pew, like a box at the opera, 
with its heavy hangings, and upholstered 
velvet chairs. We watched in vain this 
oasis in the crowd, hoping for the arrival 
of the Imperial family, but later our daily 
paper told us that royalty was gathered, 
en masse, at Potsdam. Like a mighty, 
and, alas, untuned organ, rose the volume 
of congregational singing — sad old songs 
of Martin Luther, and the wailing sweet- 
ness of "Heilage Nacht." 

Leaving the Cathedral, we were con- 
fronted by a huge, yellow balloon, which 
seemed disconcertingly near our heads, 
and rising slowly above us. Seated in it 
were several military men, w'ith what 
looked like field-glasses. From voluble 
explanations given near me by careful 
German fathers to their home-going 
broods, I gathered that these balloons 
are a part of the w^arlike maneuvers and 
preparations, which cause the sojourner 
in this peaceful Deutchland to feel him- 
self on the volcanic edge of an interna- 
tional struggle. It was a curious transi- 
tion from the Gospel of Peace to the 
sight of the Gods of War. 

Dinner at three o'clock, brought us to 
a much decorated dining-room. The 
separate tables had been brought to- 
gether, forming a large right angle, with 
seats for forty guests, our numbers aug- 
mented by some friends of Fraulein B. 
At the apex of the angle, stood a large 
Christmas tree, decorated in dazzling 
fashion, with tinsel and gilt, lighted by 
many candles, and with sundry packages 
near it upon the floor. Fraulein B. was 
the central figure, and more than one of 
her visitors kissed her hand gallantly, 
before he passed to his designated seat. 

Of the lengthy menu I remember only 
the heavy brown soup, a fowl stuffed 
with chestnuts, a great glass dish of 
something resembling pink whipped 
cream and tasting strong of rum. 
Lastly, a king among pies, a marzipan 
crust, made from flour of pounded 
almonds, and this filled w^ith the richest 



of Gooseberry Jam. At the first mouth- 
full of this marzipan crust the Irrepres- 
sible murmured in my car: 

'Tt's just like biting into a nice, 
plummy piece of Huyler's." Dinner 
over, there fell an expectant hush, which 
was broken by the entrance of Herr M., a 
musician and a delightful member of our 
small community, a man whose sense of 
humor had proved a blessing to us way- 
farers in a far land. He was dressed in 
a sort of sheet-and-pillow-case costume, 
a peaked white cap, and a huge white cot- 
ton beard, from which hung very realistic 
glass icicles. 

The unique figure was greeted by the 
American contingent with applause, and 
shouts of laughter, quickly checked, how- 
ever, by. the unwonted gravity of Herr 
M., himself, by the frigid and disapprov- 
ing glances cast in our direction by Frau- 
lein B., and the other Germans, and by 
the sound of the unmistakable word, 
"schade," the German for Shame. We 
made a hurried mental adjustment to na- 
tional prejudices; here was no jovial 
American Santa Claus: 

"With a pack on his back, they say." 
Herr M. wore his masquerading costume 
with marvelous dignity. The Irrepressi- 
ble turned to me : "And that is what 
screw^ed his napkin ring into his eye for 
a monocle, when he bowled to me at din- 
ner, last evening." He carried in his 
white gloved hand the manuscript of a 
Christmas poem, and this he read ; his 
big, mellow voice dwelling with evident 
reverence upon the Christmas story, and 
on the blessings which the Christ Child 
and his coming had brought to suffering 
humanity. 

Still facing the despoiled dinner table, 
we sang once more the Christmas hymn 
of the morning, after which came our 
first realization of the "Froeliche \\'ein- 
act," (Merry Christmas), we had been 
wishing each other all day. Fraulein B. 
had provided a little gift for each per- 
son at her lengthy table, and these, care- 
fully marked in her own painstaking let- 
ters, were duly passed around, as were 



358 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



the many gifts for Fraulein B., herself. 
The festive American youths, studying, 
some of them at the University, and oth- 
ers with various musical celebrities, had 
provided ten pfennig gifts, touching 
upon the small fads and foibles of their 
friends present, and these gave us chance 
to make merry. Even Father Christmas, 
himself again, blew delightedly on the lit- 
tle tin flute these festive youths had given 
him. 

Between feasting and ceremonials, we 
had been nearly three hours in the din- 
ing-room ; we then were invited to the 
long parlor for dancing and games. 
Here the center table, usually covered 
with a red velvet mat and the home of a 
volume of Schiller's Poems, a photograph 
album, and Views of Berlin, now gloried 
in a white cloth, and held a huge bowl of 
punch, swimming with various sliced 
fruits, known as Bola. It seemed to me 
a mild beverage, but by the delightedly 
wicked expression of the University boys, 
] judged it had its cheering qualities. 
The punch bowl was flanked on four 
sides by plates of rich little cakes ; I 
recognized the succulent odors that had 



floated up to us from the kitchen. I also 
discovered a new cake, like squares of 
pastry, with candied fruit on top. These 
dainties were urged upon us at every 
turn by Fraulein B. and her smiling as- 
sistants. 

Mindful of the very small wages, often 
no more than five dollars a month, given 
to the maids, we of the Pension had con- 
tributed to a fund to be divided among 
them as our holiday gift. The resulting 
Marks had gladdened our humble servi- 
tors almost to the point of tears. 

Christmas fell on a Sunday that year, 
and, after an hour of jollity, some of us 
quietly stole from the room. I left the 
Irrepressible in the flood tide of holiday 
celebration, waltzing gaily with a hand- 
some young Lieutenant. We went past 
brilliantly lighted cafes, music sounding 
even through the closed doors, and 
turned into a quiet street towards the 
American Church, 

A window opened above us, a little 
child looked out and sang: 
''Oh, Weinachts Mann, oh, Weinachts 

Mann !" — 
and over it all shone the Christmas Star. 



My Sister 



Who is my Sister? If she fears 
To clasp my hand or dry my tears 
The while I kneel in mute despair, 
Too weak to lisp a broken prayer ; 
Go seek another one for me, 
My Sister she can never be. 

My Sister comes ere I can plead, 
Forgetting cast, forgetting creed, 
She smiles on me and bids me know 
The source from which all blessings flow, 
Then comforts me the while she bears 
With me the burden of my cares. 

No gems are hers, no mines' of gold, 
But love more than her heart can hold 
Illumes her face with light divine. 
I know this Sister dear as mine ; 
The universal Mother gave 
This one my fainting soul to save. 

Ruth Raymond. 



The Art of Giving Gift 

By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



"Those gifts are ever the most acceptable 
Which the giver has made precious." 

SO runs the ancient adage and we 
all agree on the evident truth of 
the statement. But what qualities, 
what subtle imprint must a gift bear to 
render it precious, we ask. What gifts 
have brought us this peculiar satisfac- 
tion? 

Let us pause for a motnent and look 
with discerning eyes ; lo ! monetary value 
fades to insignificance and we can truth- 
fully say only those gifts are precious 
which carry the hallmark of thoughtful- 
ness — the gift that bespeaks the donor's 
close study of our personal tastes and 
bears testimony of heart-interest. 

This haphazard giving of Christmas 
presents is to be deplored. Because ^Irs. 
A. sent us a hand-painted calendar last 
year, we straightway ran amuck and, at 
some eleventh-hour bargain sale, bought 
her a bonbon dish or, forsooth, a doily 
"to pay her back", for, we argue, bonbon 
dishes and doilies are always useful. 
And behold ! Mrs. A. mournfully added 
one more to her large and meaningless 
array of these articles and wondered 
why measures aren't on foot for a ''safe 
and sane'' Christmas. And now we know 
that appropriateness is an important 
factor. 

Yet, appropriateness offers so much 
license that we are in danger of again 
making a mistake. 

Because mother happens to be the 
dynamo of the household is no reason 
why we should select an electric iron or 
dustpan and brush broom for her. Very 
often mothers' minds flit above the level 
of laborious days and they enjoy reading 
Ibsen and Maeterlinck. 

So, we learn that a gift, to be truly ac- 
ceptable, must give pleasure and bear the 
unerring distinction of good taste. 

I remember of paying a Christmas 



visit at a home where the father had 
been very generously remembered. Yet, 
waving aside the customary donations of 
neckties, slippers and handkerchiefs, he 
said, "but just see what the baby gave 
me ! She had only twenty cents to spend 
and see the judgment she displayed!" 
He held aloft two boxes of his favorite 
smoking tobacco tied together with a tiny 
red ribbon, w^hile on top was tucked a 
slip of paper on which was written in the 
painstaking scrawl of youthful penman- 
ship, "Have a good smoke." And from 
the look in that father's eyes, I knew he 
considered the gift thoughtful, appro- 
priate, pleasure-giving, in good taste and 
worthy of the enconium of precious. So 
those of us who keep our finger on the 
pulse of personal taste and supplement 
any material short coming with love can- 
not go far wrong. 

I know one young woman who makes 
out her gift list months in advance and 
she says: "if I am not quite sure what 
music would be acceptable to my musical 
friend, I make a careful survey of her 
bookcase and then add a biography of 
some favorite composer. If I am afraid 
to select some work for my bookish 
friend, I send him an artistic bookplate, 
bookrack, or even bookmark. Yet, many 
times, some trifling home-made gift has 
found readiest welcome ; for instance, a 
little personal calendar bearing a weekly 
quotation from some strong thinker, an 
A. B. C. book, for a college chum, con- 
taining jingles reminiscent of college fun 
and illustrated with my own crude draw- 
ings, were deeply treasured. Each year 
I try to make the spiritual side gain on 
the material," and I, for one, knew how- 
well she had succeeded. I thought of 
the little plaster "Winged X'ictory" that 
stands on my desk and told her how it 
had never ceased to act like a bugle call 
to my drooping spirits. Therein lies 



359 



360 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



true value — to let the spiritual niessag 
bide within the gift, as Prometheus hi 
the spark of living fire in the hollow o 
the fennel stalk. 

My friend, who remembers the old 
wood-road where we once took such 
soul-satisfying rambles together and who 
steals out with his camera and catches 
it in all the pristine loveliness of a May 
morning and then sends it to me, gives 
not only for the present, he has added a 
pleasant thought to all May mornings. 
And the friend who takes loving interest 
in your Colonial room and on Christmas 
Eve slips a bayberry candle in your tall 
brass candlesticks has, with the taper of 
her thoughtfulness, lighted many future 
twilights. 

But why must it be a Christmas gift, 
a wedding present, a birthday remem- 
brance! Who does not appreciate the 
gift out of season? The little love-token 
that happifies the gray of daily existence, 
as the first spring daffodil or the first 
bluebird's strain gladdens a March day. 
A dear acquaintance of mine adopts 
this mode of giving. She rarely remem- 
bers a holiday, but a morning in early 
spring may be made memorable with a 
box of trailing arbutus she has gathered 
in some fair wood- way ; or, perhaps, on a 
bleak day in late November will arrive 
an Indian basket filled with pine cones 
to brighten my fireside, and with the 
delight of a Parsee I cherish that even- 
ing blaze and think loving thoughts of 
my glorious Lady Bountiful who carries 
the Christmas spirit throughout the 
year, — who has learned that it is these 
little sweet suprises in life that make us 
forget the desolate places. 

This is distinctly the woman's age and, 
while her ladyship is busy, in the wom- 
en's clubs, bringing about betterment in 
civic conditions, in the Consumers' 
League, keeping a wise surveillance of 



P 



the sanitary requirements of manufac- 
ture and, as a side-issue of the Peace 
Movement, is trying to rob Independ- 
ence Day of its barbarity, let her seek 
the equally important task of lifting the 
burden of Christmas. I know of no bet- 
ter way of starting the reform than by 
resolving to abolish the meaningless gift 
and, like the true Lady Bountiful, to 
spread the Christmas Spirit over a 
twelve-month instead of confining it to 
the ephemeral holiday season, — to cease 
thrusting the unneeded and, perhaps, un- 
wanted donation in prosperity's circle 
and remember some unfortunate outsider 
with a true Christmas present that is 
prompted by joy, not fear. 

So few lives are poor in the three-fold 
treasury of mind, heart and pocket-book, 
that it is the privilege of all to give some- 
thing. I remember hearing a noted 
Southern educator speak with much af- 
fection of his home-town nestled in the 
beautiful hill country of Tennessee. So 
rich, fertile and picturesque was this 
little valley habitation that it was often 
referred to as "the dimple of the South- 
land." 

But on the outskirts of this "dimple" 
lay an arid, sandy tract known as "the 
barrens." Some years later in visiting 
his birthplace this man found "the bar- 
ren" mottled with green patches. "What 
does this mean?" he exclaimed. "Oh," 
came the jubilant response, "we have 
found the barrens can produce canta- 
loupes unequalled throughout the South." 
The barrens had given that which the 
rich valley could not. 

So those of us who are not financial 
magnates nor yet such towering personal- 
ities that our gifts may be great, may, 
perhaps, from the simple fruitage of 
courage or good cheer, fortify some hes- 
itant soul and learn that the gift was in- 
deed precious. 



^ 



The Worrying Habit 

By Helen Coale Crew 



THERE is a certain amount of 
worry which is excusable, not 
because it accomplishes anything, 
but because it cannot very well be 
avoided. But there is a vast deal of 
worrying of the kind known as climbing, 
which is both unnecessary and inexcus- 
able, and is usually a bad habit which 
one has deliberately walked into. Oddly 
enough, it is for the most part girls, 
who really have no worries to speak 
of, who are most addicted to the habit. 
A girl will worry sometimes for fear she 
will not pass her examinations, or be- 
cause it may rain on the day of the picnic, 
or for fear her best dress may not be 
suited to some great occasion. And these 
and a dozen other little hillocks upon her 
horizon she will magnify into frowning 
mountains that threaten her entire peace 
of mind. 

If such a girl will condescend to go to 
the nursery bookshelves and take down 
the most battered book there, namely. 
Mother Goose, and turn to the story of 
Tommy Snooks, she will come face to 
face with herself as in a mirror. Says 
Mother Goose — 

Tommy Snooks and Betsy Brooks 
Went walking out one Sunday. 
Says Tommy Snooks to Betsy Brooks, 
"Tomorrow will be Monday." 

There is the whole picture in four lines. 
Tommy is taking his sweetheart for a 
walk on a care-free Sunday. Doubtless 
both are young and happy, and dressed 
in their Sunday best, and as nothing is 
said to the contrary, we may assume that 
it is a beautiful, sunny day. But Tommy 
is born to worry as the sparks fly upward, 
and cannot let well enough alone. He 
looks around for something to worry 
about. There is nothing in view. Two 
pages back Little Miss Mufifet is having 
a real trouble, but here everything is se- 
rene and as it should be. Tommy is 



forced to seize upon intangible time to 
serve his purpose, and borrow trouble 
from the future. "Tomorrow," he says 
gloomily, "will be Monday." Where- 
upon visions of laundry tubs and yellow 
soap and the scrub board and the family 
wash blot out the pleasant landscape, and 
the Sunday outing is quite spoiled. " And 
it isn't Tommy who has to do the wash, 
either ! 

Considering what a simple matter it is 
to form a habit, one wonders why the 
worryers have not long ago sought relief 
and cured themselves by acquiring the 
very pleasant habit of looking on the 
bright side of things. One can make 
a path through the grassiest meadow by 
faithfully walking in the same line 
through it day after day ; and by the 
same method one can make a "path of 
least resistance" straight to the silver lin- 
ing of the clouds. 

There used to be a girl who, apparently, 
was incapable of putting her hat away 
when she took it off, but simply tossed it 
down anywhere and let it lie, for some- 
one else to pick up. Presently there came 
a course in psychology at school, and 
she learned how habits could be formed 
and unformed at will — if one had the 
will! Her longsuffering family advised 
a beginning upon the hat. As a huge 
joke she began faithfully putting her hat 
away where it belonged each day. Two 
small, critical brothers egged her on to 
success by predicting a failure; and at 
last, at the end of three months, she was 
doing automatically what she had never 
been able to do by intention in sixteen 
years. 

Why not take up arms in similar fash- 
ion against the worrying habit ? Worry- 
ing, of course in a more insidious and 
more peace-destroying evil than a dozen 
misplaced hats. But if the effort re- 
quired to overcome it be vastly greater, 



361 



362 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



so also will the victory be. Examinations 
are not the whole of life; picnics will 
come every June w^hile the world lasts ; 
and if a virtuous woman is above the 
price of rubies, surely a girl's sunny face 
is, at least, as valuable as the garments 



she wears. And what a very much 
smaller number of mountains there 
would be to climb — even when one 
reached them — if only they could be 
looked at squarely and discovered to be 
nothing more than molehills, after all ! 



The House Not Made With Hands 



By Estelle M. Hurll 



BETWEEN the house owner and 
the dweller in apartments there 
is a constant discussion as to the 
comparative advantages of the two ways 
of living. The tradition is still strong in 
the New England blood that every self- 
respecting family man should possess a 
roof tree of his own. It is a survival of 
the times when there was practically no 
alternative for any one who wanted a 
roof over his head. Indeed, there was 
not much else on which a man could 
spend his money in the good old days 
when travel, education and amusement 
had not begun to be regarded as neces- 
sities. The life of our new century is 
too complex to make house owning an 
unconditional advantage. For a thou- 
sand reasons a large class of people now 
prefer to use their money in other direc- 
tions. If Mr. Houseproud looks a bit 
contemptuously at his friend Flatter, the 
tables are turned when young Flatter 
enters college while Houseproud, Junior, 
must begin clerking in order to help his 
father meet the payments on the house. 

Whether one owns or rents, lives in a 
twenty-room palace or a five-room apart- 
ment, the important concern is the home 
ideal. And this is entirely independent 
of environment. A home is not a house, 
and the house does not constitute the 
home. It is a pity to confuse the casket 
with the jewels it contains, the outer 
shell with the life it embodies. There 
are multitudes of homeless houses as 
well as houseless homes. The houses 



which do not shelter true homes are 
empty, indeed, though they be filled with 
''the wealth of Ormus and of Ind," 
while some of the happiest homes in the 
world have no fixed habitation. 

Among our New England ancestors 
the actual home was confined to the 
kitchen and living room. The bed- 
rooms were exclusively for sleeping, and 
the front of the house was kept closed. 
The sacred precincts of the parlor sel- 
dom saw the light of day, and the front 
door was opened only on grand occa- 
sions. Though we have travelled a long 
way from this folly, the house is still a 
sort of fetich with a certain class of peo- 
ple. Many men ruin themselves in carry- 
ing out the designs of their ambitious 
wives and their extravagant architects. 
Others of a more honorable and frugal 
type build their houses by stern self- 
denial, growing old and work-weary in 
the process. And when the building is 
done there is nothing to go into it — no 
books and pictures, no souvenirs of 
travel — none of the accumulation of the 
years which mark the individuality. One 
cannot collect jewels when spending all 
one's money on the casket. The house 
devoid of beauty is equalled for its un- 
homelikeness only by the house that is 
furnished to order by the department 
store decorator. Both are pathetic evi- 
dences of the owner's poverty — and be- 
tween poverty of money and poverty of 
mind it were hard to choose. 

The ideal home is a place to live in — 



HIS HOXORS 



363 



not for mere eating and sleeping, not as 
a storehouse for one's possessions — and 
above all not as a show place for guests. 
"Living" in a home is to live all through 
it, to possess oneself wholly of it, to 
make it an outer body, as it were. The 
apartment is often a pretty tight fit, but 
even the tiny rooms crowded with con- 
vertible furniture may seem more home- 
like than the unused barnlike spaces of 
an old-time farmhouse. Between these 
extremes lies the happy medium, and for- 
tunate are they whose house space is ex- 
actly fitted to the needs of the home it 
shelters. The home-making instinct is 
a special gift with some people. There 
are women who in five minutes can 
transform a camp tent or the bare room 
of a summer hotel into a cosy, homelike 
spot. Somewhere from the depths of the 
trunk they extract a sofa pillow and 
table cloth, a work basket, a few writing 
materials and toilet articles, a magazine 
or two — and the thing is done. Nor does 
the home charm consist so much in 
things themselves as in the way they are 
put around, if it is only a handful of 
daisies in a shaving mug. 

The ideal home is a place of comfort, 
where all one's needs are anticipated and 
the right things are in the right spot. 
This is the domestic side of it. What is 



home if matches and pins are not within 
reach, or if one's coflfee and steak are 
not to one's liking? In the home of com- 
fort the desks and tables stand in the 
best light, the chairs are sociable, the 
books and pictures lovable ; and every- 
thing is usable. Its crowning beauty is 
that it is yours and not another's. The 
books are those you have read, the furn- 
iture that you have selected, the touches 
of beauty and the scheme of color is of 
your own taste. It contains a thousand 
treasures of happy association. Your 
home has no duplicate, and cannot be 
exactly reproduced. It is a composite of 
the family life. Each member has a 
share in its making or marring, and all 
find here a place of rest for body and 
soul. "The glory of a home is its hos- 
pitality," reads a pretty "motto" in the 
shop windows. \\'hat is good to have is 
good to give. The home that is a joy 
to its dwellers must needs warm every 
heart which comes into its radiance. For, 
of course, above all things else, a true 
home stands for love and content. On 
this foundation the homing spirit may 
build a home which neither fire nor flood, 
changes nor chances nor movings can 
destroy, for its walls are not of wood or 
stone, but it is a house not made with 
hands. 



His Honors 

In a humble shed, they made His bed, 
For a stall was His sole retreat ; 

Yet His gifts, we are told, were myrrh and 
gold. 
And there knelt three kings at His feet. 

He was turned from the din of the crowded 



To a stable so still, so hushed; 
But to carol His birth to the waiting earth, 
A chorus of angels rushed. 

The place was dim where they cradled Him, 

And the way was dark and far; 
But to furnish Him light, there was formed 
that night 
A glorious, guiding star. 

Leslie D.wis. 



Her Christmas Gifts 



By Alix Thorn 



THEODORA, perched upon a 
gray rock high above the pebbly 
beach, was looking out over the 
sunlit bay ; and her gray eyes were very 
sober, while unregarded an August mag- 
azine lay upon her blue linen lap. A 
chance remark she had overheard that 
morning on the Inn piazza had straight- 
way started a troublous line of thought, 
and this was what she heard: "My dear, 
it is not a bit too early to think about 
Christmas, not if your list is a very long 
one." Theodora had walked quickly 
away, her cheeks a deeper pink, rebellion 
in her girlish heart, leaving the chatter- 
ing lines of matrons and maids to the 
joys of fancy work and rocking chairs. 
Instinctively she turned down a winding 
path which led through young spruces 
and slender white birches, down to the 
water, and here, half hidden, was a leafy 
retreat that Theodora was fond of calling 
her ''den." Straight to Nature she went 
to be calmed and comforted, but, some- 
how, to-day, Nature failed to comfort 
one of her devotees. A gay little motor 
boat chug, chugged by, proudly bearing 
its load of merry young people ; a red- 
roofed bungalow on a distant island 
stood out like a beacon against its green 
background, and the balsam-ladened- 
wind audaciously blew the brown ten- 
drils of Theodora's hair. A quick sigh 
sounded above the noise of wind and 
water. Oh, it was too hard ! Christmas 
was indeed coming, and how she had wel- 
comed it in former years ! Early in De- 
cember she had gone gaily forth into the 
enticing stores and as gaily bought appro- 
priate gifts ; and it is but fair to say that 
Theodora gave thought to her holiday 
purchases, selecting v/isely and well. 

"You always seem to know just what 
is one's especial desire, Theodora," said 
a thank you letter ; "is it intuition, or only 
loving understanding?" It had been one 



of the girl's happiest duties to thus sur- 
prise and gratify her friends, many of 
whom had not pocket-books as well filled 
as her own. 

But, now, now, and all in one short 
year, fickle fortune had turned her wheel, 
and Theodora and her widowed mother 
found themselves with hardly more than 
enough income to live upon, with but 
small allowance left over for extras ; and, 
alas, Christmas must be termed an extra. 

A big pine cone falling on the ground 
behind her caused the girl to look around. 
Mechanically she lifted the brown, rosin 
dotted cone, and studied its symmetry. 
How gloriously such gathered cones 
blazed in the great open fires of the Inn, 
in these cool August evenings, sending 
forth their spicy, woodsy odor, after- 
wards glowing red and transparent as 
some Christmas tree ornament ; and then 
Theodora sat up suddenly very straight, 
puckered her smooth brow, looked 
thoughtful, smiled, then nodded toward 
the rippling bay, and — "Why not?" said 
Theodora. 

That very afternoon she rowed over 
to the little store on the next island, pur- 
chased several brown paper bags, said 
bags being two for a cent, feeling, as she 
laid down the needful pennies, very like 
a little girl again, selecting painstakingly 
a choice line of confectionery. 

"Mother," she announced an hour 
later, spreading out her paper bags be- 
fore Mrs. Dennison's astonished eyes, 
"Mother, here are the beginnings of some 
of my Christmas presents." 

"My dearest child," began Theodora's 
mother, "will you have the kindness to 
explain !" and she laid down her knitting 
to raise expectant eyes to Theodora's 
mischievous face. So Theodora did ex- 
plain, while every dimple came out, and 
her cheeks glowed as pink as the Maine 
wild roses. "You see. Mother, mine," 
364 



HER CHRISTMAS GIFTS 



365 



she said, "an illuminating thought came 
to your despondent daughter as she gazed 
steadfastly over the bay, cradling in her 
hands a perfectly good pine cone, and 
musing over her fallen fortunes. This 
was the thought that sprang, Minerva- 
like from her brain, how delightful the 
pine cones w^ere w^hen dropped upon the 
burning logs in the fireplace! what an il- 
lumination, what fragrance they gave out 
and how desirable such cones would be, 
to burn at home, in winter; how they 
would recall the dear, vanished delights 
of the summer, and swiftly I resolved to 
gather bagfuls and bagfuls of the cones, 
pack them in a box, also supplied by the 
store, and freight them to New York. 
Once home, I shall put them away safely 
in a dry place till just before Christmas, 
and then — well, you'll see! Why, as I 
dwelt upon my ungathered treasures and 
what they might mean, I could imagine I 
heard the sound of chiming Christmas 
bells floating over the water, and, as I 
walked home along that dear, dim, wood 
way, the bunch berries at my feet w^ere 
swiftly converted into gleaming holly- 
berries, such is the force of imagination." 

"Well, Theodora," remarked her 
mother, returning peacefully to her neg- 
lected knitting, "your inspirations are 
generally good ones, if sometimes a trifle 
surprising. I shall gladly help you 
gather cones, the exercise will do me 
good, and I think I begin to grasp your 
idea." 

Happy mornings the two spent under 
the giant pine trees, carefully selecting the 
larger cones, shaking them free from the 
brown needles, and placing them "almost 
symmetrically," as Theodora expressed 
it, in the convenient paper bags. Some- 
times they paused to rest, Mrs. Dennison 
perched upon an overturned old boat, 
while Theodora curled up on the moss 
close by. The fresh salt wind crept up 
from the bay and cooled their cheeks, 
the cheery voices of campers sounded 
farther dowm the shore, and sometimes 
the white gleam of a passing sail was 
lifted high above the low growth by the 



steep bank. 

At last the girl decided that enough 
cones had been gathered, and reluctantly 
they gave up their pleasant morning oc- 
cupation. But the very next day Theo- 
dora began to clip the fragrant fir bal- 
sam that covered the island, choosing 
carefully the tender lighw green tips 
which spread out fan like from the par- 
ent branch. The balsam cutting was a 
much more lengthy task than the gather- 
ing of the pine cones had been, but not 
discouraged, day after day Theodora 
went forth, armed with a pair of old scis- 
sors and the omnipresent paper bags. 
The great trees murmured mysteriously 
of woodland secrets, the saucy squirrels 
racing from limb to limb chattered wildly 
as if vexed that a rash mortal should 
penetrate their secret haunts, and Theo- 
dora, nut-brown maid, hummed cheer- 
fully at her task w^hile the morning hours 
slipped away. Sometimes she added 
bayberry leaves to her opened bag, paus- 
ing to crush a few in her hand to inhale 
the odor, so like that of the rose gera- 
nium, w^hile the leaves themselves were 
polished as is the laurel that New Eng- 
land hillsides know. 

Early in September, Theodora and her 
mother traveled back to town, and beside 
their trunks went a roomy wooden box 
filled to the brim with layers of pine 
cones, as well as a number of unbleached 
cotton bags stufifed with balsam, and bay- 
berry leaves, the result of Theodora's in- 
dustry. 

It was December, and the girl tripped 
merrily from store to store, never mind- 
ing the biting wind that swept unexpect- 
edly down side streets and around cor- 
ners, for the Christmas cheer w^as in her 
heart, and she smiled at the tempting 
windows, and examined the gift-laden 
counters, without a trace of envy or un- 
happiness. Theodora's Christmas prob- 
lems were settled ; why should she not 
smile? For weeks she had shopped for 
inexpensive cottons in simple designs ; all 
in deep greens and light greens, blue 

G)ntinued on Page 402 



366 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 

MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

SUBS.-RIPTION ^1 00 PER YeAR SiNGLE CoPIES, lOc 

Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, albo, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
oi the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the o/d address 
as well as the Nezv. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership and Tnanao^etnent as -cquiredby 
the Act of Congress of August 24. ic/12. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

Business Managers-. R, B. Hill, B M Hill. 

Owners', B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R B Hill. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year 

By The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co., 

372 Boylston Stieet, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 

"The best things are nearest: breath 
in your nostrils, light in your eyes, flow- 
ers at your feet, duties at your hand, 
the path of God just before you. Then 
do not grasp at the stars, but do life's 
plain, common work as it comes, certain 
that daily duties and daily bread are the 
sweetest things of life." 



To be honest, to be kind — to earn a 
little, and to spend a little less, to make 
upon the whole a family happier for his 
presence, to renounce when that shall be 
necessary and not to be embittered, to 
keep a few friends, but these without 
capitulation — above all, on the same 
grim condition, to keep friends with 
himself — here is a task for all that a 
man has of fortitude and delicacy. — 
R. L. S. 



NEW OCCASION 

THE elections are over, the harvests 
are abundant, the country is 
everywhere prosperous, we- would that 
you might consider the conditions fa- 
vorable to a renewal of your subscrip- 
tion to the only exclusive household 
publication in your list of periodicals. 
We regard the discontinuance of a sub- 
scription as just so much real loss to 
us. Will you not feel the non-contin- 
uance of your monthly domestic maga- 
zine as a needless loss to you? 

A renewal of subcription, in any 
form, is always very acceptable to us 
and is received with thanks; but no re- 
newal can be more acceptable than that 
which is secured by sending two new 
subscriptions, in accordance with our 
standing offer. 

We realize that we now have a 
choice and invaluable list of subscrib- 
ers ; this list we are anxious to retain 
substantially intact as well as to en- 
large, by the addition of new names of 
progressive housekeepers in every part 
of the land. 

The interest in home science is rap- 
idly growing. People should learn 
how to live before it is too late. Life 
is the thing of most importance. Al- 
ready women have gained educational 
advantages equal with men. Special 
vocational training is now the demand 
of the times. Skilled workmen are al- 
ways wanted ; such can find immediate 
employment. Whatever pursuits a 
woman may qualify for or engage in, 
she must be prepared for homemaking, 
for this is her natural vocation. 

THE NECESSITY OF GIVING 

BY nothing is the status of a person 
more clearly shown than by what 
he regards as necessary It goes with- 
out saying that the rich man's neces- 
sities are the poor man's luxuries. But 
what is far more interesting to most of 
us is the comparison of standards among 
people of like income. We constantly 



EDITORIALS 



367 



hear oeople say that they cannot afford 
this or that, when we happen to know 
that they have quite as much to do with 
as we ourselves, and spend money 'in 
many ways which we would deem ex- 
travagant. There are women who dress 
as we would never dream of doing, who 
never have money for books or maga- 
zines. Some spend on vacation trips 
what others put into rent. Some build 
houses, while others run automobiles. In 
some families,, the education of the chil- 
dren is the first necessity, while in others 
it is expensive social life. In short, if we 
know how people spend their income, we 
know -the secret springs of their life. 

It is foolish for any one to set up an 
absolute standard for the proportioning 
of expenses. All this is a matter of in- 
dividual preference, and every man is a 
rule unto himself. No one is in a posi- 
tion to criticize another. Nevertheless it 
is only human to observe and comment 
on others' peculiarities. The most un- 
forgivable of all spending schemes is 
that which shuts out all generosity to 
others. The people who spend all on 
themselves, with the constant excuse that 
they cannot afford to give, cannot but 
be despised. Giving should be regarded 
as a necessity of life. To have no church 
claims, no habits of charity, no customs 
of gift making, no sharing of pleasures 
with others, and no ways of hospitality — • 
this were poverty indeed. Those who 
think they cannot afford these things are 
the poorest of paupers. As a matter of 
fact, they cannot afford to live without 
them. No one can know the fulness of 
life who does not recognize the necessity 
of giving. E. M. H. 

THE INVESTIGATION OF FOOD 
PRODUCTS 

T T is one of the dear delights of child- 
-■- , hood to watch Mother at her cooking 
and sewing, or to stand around while 
Father is doing odd jobs of repairing. 
The plumbf^r and carpenter, the painter 
and mason always draw a circle of inter- 
ested spectators about them. So it has 



become a modern method of advertising, 
to let the public see how things are made. 
A popular window display is to show 
some workman at his trade: the cigar 
maker deftly rolling tobacco leaves into 
shape, the watchmaker taking apart the 
delicate mechanism of the watch, the con- 
fectioner pulling candy, and the restaur- 
ant cook turning griddle cakes. The 
European tourist considers it part of his 
program to visit the woodcarvers of 
Switzerland, the toy-makers of Nurem- 
berg, the glass-blowers of \'enice, and 
the lace-makers of Belgium. It is an in- 
stinct of human nature to ask the whys 
and hows. We love to see the wheels go 
round. 

The present demand is to carry this 
idea out in a practical and systematic 
way. Nowhere is there greater need of 
investigation than in the making of food 
products. Now and then, one hears of an 
exceptional manufacturer who opens his 
factories for inspection on certain days. 
But the majority would be reluctant, in- 
deed, to let the people know the ins and 
outs of their business. Wq are all 
aware that the love of gain has led to 
many frauds and impositions as well as 
to the neglect of cleanliness and hygiene. 
\\g accept the fact too passively, depend- 
ing upon the law to regulate such mat- 
ters. Much has, indeed, been done to 
remedy our wrongs, but much, much 
more more remains to be done. Official 
and organized investigations are the great 
necessity. But to bring about such in- 
vestigations, and to demand the laws 
such investigations show the need of, we 
must all concern ourselves more earnestly 
in these questions. Each one can lend a 
hand in the great work. We must all in- 
sist on finding out what materials and 
what methods are involved in all we eat. 

E. M. H. 



''What kind of a man will I be in 
Elysium?" one of his pupils asked 
Socrates. 

"The same kind of a man you are 
here," was the great philosopher's reply. 



368 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



A Business Decalogue 

Thou shalt not wait for something to 
turn up, but thou shalt pull off thy coat 
and go to work, that thou mayest prosper 
in thy affairs. 

Thou shalt not be content to go about 
thy business looking like a loafer, for 
thou shouldst know that thy personal 
appearance is better than a letter of 
recommendation. 

Thou shalt not try to make excuses, 
nor shalt thou say to those who chide 
thee, "I didn't think." 

Thou shalt not wait to be told what 
thou shalt do, nor in what manner thou 
shalt do it, for thus may thy days be long 
in the job which fortune hath given thee. 

Thou shalt not covet the other fellow's 
job, nor his salary, nor the position that 
he hath gained by his own hard labor. 

Thou shalt not fail to live within thy 
income, nor shalt thou contract any debt 
when thou canst not see the way clear to 
pay it. 

Thou shalt not hesitate to say "No" 
when thou meanest "No," nor shalt thou 
fail to remember that there are times 
when it is unsafe to bind thyself to hasty 
judgement. 

Thou shalt give every man a square 
deal. This is the last great command- 
ment, and there is no other like unto it. 
Upon this commandment hang all the 
law and profits of the business world. — 
Graham Hood. 



Women's Reading 

WOMEN no longer read love 
stories. Fiction is declining, and 
more serious books, generally of a so- 
ciological character, are taking its place. 
In publishers' lists, works on economics, 
socialism, hygiene, eugenics, crowd into 
the leading place once reserved for 
novels. A collection of this year's titles 
would contain more references to ballots 
than to courtship. In the year's literary 
output you would find the word 'sirloin' 
repeated more often than 'heart.' 



"Women have always been the best 
bookbuyers. 
^ "The suflfrage movement is largely re- 
sponsible for increased interest in public 
problems. 

"Women are reading serious books; 
they are keenly interested in all public 
problems, all social conditions. \\'hat- 
ever the suffrage movement may do in 
the future, it has already done that." 



A Prayer 

OGOD, help us to realize the divin- 
ity wnthin us that w^e may be co- 
workers with Thee in the furtherance 
of all goodness. Help us, we pray 
Thee, to be glad of the gift of life, and 
appreciative of the privilege of work. 

May we hold in loving thought every 
living creature, desiring for each fel- 
low man the durable satisfactions we 
desire for ourselves. Ma}^ we be swift 
to apply ourselves unto wisdom, but in 
cultivating the mind let us not be for- 
getful of the heart, that in weeding the 
mind of ignorance w^e may likewise free 
the heart from all unkindness and fear. 

Let the barrier between sacred and 
secular be broken down, that ours may 
be the beauty of an everyday religion, 
and our faith the foundation of every 
hope. Teach us, w^e beseech Thee, the 
value of a smile and gladden our lips 
with the Gospel of Good Cheer^ so shall 
we enter, here and now, into the King- 
dom of happiness. — e. r. w. 



The Christmas Star 

Through faith we see the selfsame star 
That led the wise men's way; 

Its radiant beauty from afar 
Shines as our hope today. 

The love of God, transcending all 

The lesser loves of earth, 
Ready to heed the weakest call 

Of those of mortal birth, 

Sent down to us this ray divine 

Of light, that all might see^^ 
How one true Soul on earth could shine, 

Yet wear humanity. 

Cora A. Matson Dolson. 




SUCKLING PIG, ROASTED, WITH RICE 
{Seepage 377) 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting- 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupfu) 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a levet, spoonful. 



Canned Asparagus Canapes, 
Christmas Style 

DRAIN the asparagus in a can, 
then let dry on a cloth. Spread 
oval shapes of bread, three and 
one-half inches long by an inch and a 
half wide, with butter and let color del- 
icately in the oven, then set aside to 
chill. On each piece of chilled bread 
set two or three asparagus tips of suit- 
able length ; above dispose half a tea- 
spoonful of mayonnaise dressing, then 
sprinkle the whole with small squares 
of pimento. 

Consomme, Imperatrice 

For two quarts of hot consomme, 
made in the usual manner, have ready 
about half a cup of cooked peas or as- 
paragus tips, a dozen and a half tiny 
flowerets of cauliflower and the same 
number of carefully cut cubes of cooked 
chicken breast or of small chicken balls. 



To make the balls, stir half a cup of 
fine-chopped and pounded chicken breast 
(cooked), half a teaspoonful of onion 
juice, a few grains of mace, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, 
and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,, 
into half a cup of hot cream sauce. 
Spread the mixture on a plate; when 
cold shape into balls half an inch in 
diameter ; roll these in beaten tgg and 
let cook in a small saucepan of hot fat 
until nicely colored ; drain on soft paper. 

Roast Goose, German Style 

Rub a carefully dressed, young goose,, 
inside and out, with salt, pepper, sage, 
thyme and sweet marjoram and let 
stand overnight. Mix three cups of soft 
(stale) bread crumbs, half a cup of 
cleaned currants, half a cup of stoned 
raisins, a sour apple, peeled, cored and 
chopped, one hot, cooked potato, pressed 
through a sieve, half a cup of melted 
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
369 



370 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



little pepper, and use to fill the goose ; 
truss and roast in the usual manner. 
Serve. with a giblet sauce and a "com- 
pote" of cherries (canned or preserved 
cherries). 

Planked Duckling, Albany Style 
(The Hotel Monthly) 

Singe a young domestic duck, cut off 
the neck, split down the back, open, 
loosen and remove the internal contents 
in one mass. Reserve the liver to serve 
with the duckling, first removing from 
it the gall bag. Wash and wipe the 
bird with care, then grill over coals or 
under the gas flame about twenty min- 
utes, leaving the flesh slightly under- 
done. Cook largely on the flesh side. 



sons, one small cauliflower, with Hol- 
landaise sauce, sliced apples baked with 
sugar and butter, two inch pieces of 
stewed celery, egged, crumbed and 
sauted in melted butter, and the liver 
broiled with the duck. Dispose these in 
individual casseroles, or otherwise, on 
the plank around the duck. Serve ad- 
ditional Hollandaise sauce in a bowl. 

Maryland Chicken (Miss Quimby) 

Singe and draw the chicken, cut in 
pieces for serving, separating at the 
joints. Season flour with salt and pep- 
per and in it roll the pieces of chicken. 
Have ready, in cast-iron frying pan, 
some hot fat, salt pork, bacon or olive 
oil, and in this cook the chicken, turning 




PLANKED DUCKLING, ALBANY STYLE 



Bake four or five large sweet potatoes, 
remove the pulp from the skins and 
press it through a ricer. Season with 
salt, pepper, butter and cream ; add the 
beaten yolks of two eggs and beat all 
together thoroughly. Have the potato 
of a consistency to flow easily through 
a pastry bag while holding its shape 
perfectly. Set the duckling on a hot 
plank; pipe the potato around it, brush 
over with a beaten yolk of egg, diluted 
with two tablespoonfuls of milk, and set 
the plank into the oven to brown the 
edges of the potato and finish cooking 
the duck. Have ready enough cooked 
Lima beans to serve two or four per- 



as it needed, until it is of a golden brown 
exterior. Remove the chicken, pour off| 
the fat, to leave about four tablespoon- 
fuls in the pan, add four tablespoonfuls I 
of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a dash of pepper; stir until the fat has 
absorbed the flour and is slightly 
browned, then add two cups and a half 
of rich milk and stir until boihng; put 
the chicken into the sauce, cover and set) 
into a moderate oven, for one-half to| 
three-fourths of an hour, to simmer, 
blend flavors and grow deliciousl} 
tender. 

Bacon, with Fried Bananas 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



371 



Set slices of bacon between the wires the pan. Use this in making a cup of 
of a double broiler. Put the broiler in thick brown sauce; add the juice of an 




BROILED BACON, WITH FRIED BAXAXAS 



an oven over a dripping pan. Let cook 
until the fat is well drawn out. In the 
fat saute peeled bananas, scraped, cut in 
quarters and dipped in flour. Serve for 
breakfast or supper. 

Roast Duckling (Domestic) 

Truss the duckling in the same man- 
ner as a chicken ; remove the gall blad- 
der from the liver and put the liver 
inside the duck. Rub over with salt and 
pepper and spread with dripping; let 
cook about an hour and a half or until 
the flesh is very tender. Baste every 
ten minutes, dredging with flour after 
each basting. When done pour off the 
fat from the pan ; add a cup of brown 
stock (beef and veal) and use to rinse 



orange and part of the peel, cut in very 
fine shreds. Serve with apple sauce or 
apple fritters and currant jelly sauce. 
Garnish the duck on the platter with 
half slices of orange. 

Lamb Chops a la Diable 

Spread the eye of the chops, on both 
sides, lightly with "made" mustard — 
ground mustard mixed to a paste with 
a few grains of sugar, and vinegar and 
boiling water, half and half ; roll in 
sifted, soft bread crumbs, cover with 
an egg, beaten with four tablespoonfuls 
of milk or water, and again roll in soft 
bread crumbs. Let stand to dry a little, 
then shape, to remove superfluous 
crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Let fry 




ROAST DUCKLIXG 



Z72 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



about six minutes. Drain on soft paper. 
Serve, around a mound of macaroni a 
la Italienne, on peas and slices of carrot, 
dressed with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful 
of sugar and two or three tablespoonfuls 
of butter. 

Galantine of Chicken, Christmas 
Decoration 

Select a fresh-killed, undrawn chicken 
of about four pounds in weight. Singe 
and remove pin feathers. Cut off the 
pinions. Cut through the skin down the 
entire length of the backbone, then push 
and cut the flesh from the bones, to 
secure the framework in one piece and 
the flesh in another. Take off the white 
meat and set it aside. Wipe the outside 
and inside of the flesh ; push the skin 



Trim the skin as needed, to secure a 
rectangular shape. Cut the breast meat, 
previously set aside, in thin, even slices ; 
lay these slices over the skin as uniform- 
ly as possible ; over these spread a layer 
of the forcemeat; lengthwise on the 
forcemeat set rows — equally distant from 
each other — of the cubes of pork and 
tongue and two truffles cut in thin 
slices, alternating the articles and hav- 
ing them at a uniform distance, one from 
the other, and cover with forcemeat; re- 
peat the rows of cubes and finish with 
forcemeat. Then roll into a neat and 
compact shape, the skin upon the out- 
side, and sew secure. 

Roll the meat in a piece of cheese- 
cloth, tie the cloth close to the ends of 
the meat and tie tape around it in two 




GALANTINE OF CHICKEN, CHRISTMAS DECORATION 



of the wings and legs inside and remove 
the flesh. Put this flesh, scraped from 
the tendons, with one pound, each, of 
fat and lean pork and lean veal, and 
chop and pound to a smooth paste, sea- 
soning with half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and pepper, adding a little broth, 
meanwhile, but do not make very moist; 
press through a sieve, add one teaspoon- 
ful of onion juice, one tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, three or four table- 
spoonfuls of wine, and one beaten ^gg. 
Cut cooked ox-tongue and fat salt pork 
in cubes of a scant three-fourths inch. 
Pour boiling water over the pork, drain, 
rinse in cold water and drain again. 
Spread the skin on a meat board and 
sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. 



or three other places. Finish dressing 
the bones of the chicken ; wash care- 
fully, then add bits of veal and cover the 
whole with cold water; let heat slowly 
to the boiling point ; add the usual soup 
vegetables ; on the bones set the galan- 
tine and let simmer until tender. Let 
stand until cooled a little, then untie the 
pieces of tape, unroll the cloth, and roll 
again smooth, tie the tapes as before 
and set to cool under a weight. Strain 
off the broth and when cold remove the 
fat and use the broth for aspic jelly 
and chaudfroid sauce. When the galan- 
tine is cold, remove the skin, wipe to 
remove fat if present, then set on an 
inverted soup plate and pour over it 
chaudfroid sauce, on the point of "set- 



\.Lu 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



373 



ting," to cover completely and smoothly 
the galantine. Have ready one or two 



or chicken broth. Stir until the gelatine 
is dissolved, then use as above. 



/^. 






^m 





EGG SALAD, AURORE 



cooked string beans, cut to simulate 
stems, and pimento, cut to represent the 
petals of a poinsettia blossum, also some 
sifted yolk of a hard-cooked egg. Dis- 
pose these on the sauce to simulate a 
poinsettia blossom ; cover with half-set 
aspic and set aside to become firm. 
Serve, sliced thin, with shredded endive 
(or celery), sprigs of cress and strips 
of pimento, seasoned with French dres- 
sing. 

Chaudfroid Sauce for Galantine 

Make an ordinary sauce of two table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
pepper and half a cup, each, of cream 
and chicken broth. Add to the hot 
sauce one tablespoonful of gelatine, soft- 
ened in one-fourth a cup of cold water 



Aspic Jelly for Chaudfroid 

Soften half a package of gelatine in 
half a cup of cold chicken broth; add 
one pint of cold chicken broth, salt and 
pepper, thin yellow rind of one-fourth a 
lemon and the slightly beaten white and 
crushed shell of one egg. Stir constant- 
ly over the fire until the boiling point is 
reached ; let boil gently five minutes, then 
let settle and strain through a napkin 
wrung out of hot water. 

Egg Salad Aurore 

For one large or two small portions 
there are needed two half-inch thick 
slices of a good-sized tomato, one ten- 
der hard-cooked egg, four lettuce leaves 
and two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise 
dressing. Set the tomato over a little 



'^iBL^^ 1^ 


^/"^S^tf^ 


^^^^^!Wk 




^ 


^^^^■■■^■^^ 


^■■■Hi^^ 


'^m 


■ m 


^H 



CRANBERRV-AND-CELERV SALAD 



374 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



of the dressing on the lettuce. Cut the 
egg in quarters, remove the yolk to a 
sieve, cut the pieces of white in halves 
crosswise and dispose on the tomato, the 
pointed ends to the center ; dispose the 
rest of the mayonnaise at the points 
where the pieces of white meet. Sift 
the yolk over the dressing. Serve at 
once. 

Cranberry-and- Celery Salad 

Select choice cranberries of good size 
and cut each in about four slices at 
right angles to the stem. Cut inner, 
blanched stalks of crisp celery into slices 
one-fourth an inch thick. There may be 
equal measures of cranberry and celery, 
but should not be more of the prepared 
celerv than of the cranberries. Season 



milk, cooled to a lukewarm temperature ; 
add one-third a cup of sugar or molasses, 
one-fourth a cup of shortening, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, one cup of seeded rais- 
ins, and about three cups, each, of rye 
flour and w^hite flour. Use white flour 
for kneading and knead until smooth 
and elastic. When light shape for two 
brick-loaf pans and when again light 
bake about one hour. 

Potato Rolls (Mrs. Clements) 

Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of scalded-and-cooled 
milk ; mix thoroughly, then add to one 
cup of scalded-and-cooled milk; stir in 
nearly two cups of flour and set aside 
to become light and puffy. Add one cup 
of hot. mashed potato, one-third a cup 




ENGLISH PLUM PUDDINC;, HARD SAUCE, L\ THREE COLORS 



separately or together. For a pint of 
material, mix a scant half-teaspoonful 
of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
paprika, four tablespoonfuls of olive oil 
and one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Mix all together thoroughly ; pour over 
the celery and cranberry ; mix and turn 
upon a bed of carefully washed-and- 
dried leaves of lettuce. Serve with 
roasts of poultry or veal. 

Sweet Rye Bread, with Raisins 

Soften one-third to one whole yeast 
cake in one-half a cup of lukew^arm wa- 
ter, mix and add to two cups of scalded 



of sugar, one-fourth a cup of shorten- 
ing, half a teaspoonful of salt, the yolks 
of two eggs and about two cups of flour. 
Alix all together thoroughly with a knife. 
The dough should be about as stiff as 
can be stirred, yet not stiff enough to 
knead. Cut, through and through, the 
dough repeatedly ; cover and set aside to 
become doubled in bulk. Turn upon a 
well-floured board, roll into a sheet one- 
fourth an inch thick and cut into rounds, 
brush the rounds w4th melted butter, 
double over like a Parker House roll, 
brush over the tops with butter and let 
rise. Bake about twenty minutes. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 
English Plum Pudding 



375 



Butter a mold very thoroughly ; press 
halves of blanched almonds into the but- 




ICE CREAM, BAKED ALASKA, WITH FIGS 



One pound of beef suet, shredded fine 
and chopped, one pound of seeded rais- 
ins, the same amount of currants, care- 
fully washed and dried, half a pound of 
citron in fine shavings, five tablespoon- 
fuls of brown sugar, rolled fine, three 
cups of grated stale bread, one cup of 
flour, one grated nutmeg, a tablespoon- 
ful, each, of mace and cinnamon, fo:ir 
large tablespoonfuls of cream, and six 
eggs. The recipe calls for brandy or 
wine, but two gills of orange juice can 
be substituted, if preferred, and the 
grated rind of a lemon. Roll the fruit 
in the flour, moisten the bread crumbs 
with the cream, beat up the yolks of the 
eggs, and stir into them all the ingredi- 
ents, and, lastly, the whipped whites of 
the eggs. * 



ter as a decoration for the pudding; let 
the mold stand in a cool place to chill, 
then turn in the mixture. Steam six 
hours. Serve with 

Hard Sauce 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar. Di- 
vide into three parts ; leave one plain, add 
one or two ounces of melted chocolate 
to one part, and into the third beat straw- 
berry or raspberry preserves or jam to 
color and flavor as desired. 

Chocolate Xougat Cake (Aileen 
Stimson) 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup and a half of 
eranulated su^ar. Melt one- fourth a 



4 


H|^^^H^H 


W 


r^ 




"^ 


T. ^ 

'""^-. 


SLi^' wtA 




1 

i 


"i . . : 



CHOCOLATE ,\UlGAi CAKE 



Z7(i 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



pound of chocolate over hot water; add 
three teaspoonfuls of boiHng water and 



a brush wet in cold water, cover and let 
boil two or three minutes. If coffee be 




CHRISTMAS E'CLAIRS 



two level tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
stir over the fire until smooth ; then 
gradually be^ it in to the sugar and but- 
ter ; add the eggs, beaten light, without 
separating the' whites and yolks, and, al- 
ternately, half a cup of milk and one 
cup and three-fourths of sifted flour, 
sifted again with three level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder. One slightly round- 
ing teaspoonful of cream of tartar and 
half a level teaspoonful of soda may be 
used in place of the baking-powder. 
Bake in two or three layers, according 
to the size of the pans ; put together with 
boiled frosting to which from one-quar- 
ter to one-half a pound of blanched-and- 
split almonds have been added. 

Boiled Frosting for Chocolate 
Cake 

Melt one cup and a half of sugar in 
two-thirds a cup of boiling water (or 
use half water and half black coffee) ; 
wash down the sides, with the hand or 



used, the saucepan must be watched, lest 
it boil over. Remove the cover and let 
boil to a rather firm soft ball, to 238° F.' 
on the sugar thermometer. Turn the 
syrup in a fine stream on the whites of 
two eggs, beaten dry, beating constantly 
meanwhile ; add the nuts and beat with 
a spoon until cool enough to hold its 
shape. 

Christmas E'clairs 

Put one-fourth a cup of butter and 
half a cup of boiling water over the fire; 
when boiling stir in half a cup of sifted 
flour, and continue to stir until the mix 
ture collects together into a mass; turn 
into a bowl and beat in two eggs, one at 
a time. When the mixture is beaten 
smooth, shape it in a baking pan into 
strips about four inches long and an 
inch and a half wide. Bake about twen- 
ty-five minutes, with strongest heat atl 
the bottom. When cold open each alongf 
the side and fill with pastry cream ; in- 




ALMOND MERINGUES, BLITZEN KUCHEN, ETC. 



■^- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



37; 



vert the e'clairs and spread confection- 
ers' frosting over the smooth side, and 
decorate at once with small red candies 
and tiny leaves, cut from thin outer slices 
of citron. To cut the leaves most easily 
take a pattern of a leaf from a Christmas 
card. 

Pastry Filling 

Scald one cup of milk; mix one-third 
a cup of sugar and one-fourth a cup of 
flour thoroughly ; add the hot milk, mix 
and return to the double-boiler, and stir 
and cook over hot water until thickened, 
then cover and let cook ten minutes. 
Beat one tgg; add a tablespoonful of 
sugar and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, mix, and stir into the hot mixture. 
When set remove, let cool and add half 
a teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla ex- 
tract. 

Confectioners' Frosting 

Stir sifted confectioners' sugar into 
two or three tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water or sugar syrup. Flavor with lemon 
or vanilla extract. 

Blitzen Coocken (Mrs. Garretson) 

Beat a scant half cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in one cup of su- 
gar, then the yolks of three eggs, beaten 
light. Beat in one cup of sifted flour, 
then the whites of three eggs, beaten dry. 
Spread on well buttered pans to the depth 
of half an inch ; sprinkle with blanched 
almonds, cut in shreds lengthwise. 
When baked and cold cut into small 
squares or other shapes. 

Almond Biscuit 

Beat the yolks of three eggs very light ; 
gradually beat in half a cup of granulated 
sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
half a cup of sifted pastry flour and, 
lastly, the whites of three eggs, beaten 
dry with one-eighth of a teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar. Turn into small but- 
tered tins, preferably such as are longer 
than the width; set half a blanched 
almond in the top of the mixture at each 



end, dredge with granulated sugar, and 
bake in an oven hotter than for a loaf of 
sponge cake. 

Almond Meringues 

Beat the whites of four fresh cgg?^ dry, 
then gradually beat in one cup of granu- 
lated sugar, and when very firm, take a 
spoon and beat in half a cup or more of 
chopped almonds. Lightly tack strips of 
waxed paper (such as is used in wrap- 
ping butter, &c.) on to a board about one 
inch in thickness ; with a spoon drop the 
mixture on the paper, giving each portion 
an oval shape ; sprinkle with sliced 
almonds and dredge with granulated su- 
gar. Set the boards into a slack oven to 
let the meringues dry out rather than 
bake. After three-fourths of an hour 
increase the heat to color the meringues 
delicately. \\^hen baked lift from the 
paper with a spratula. 

Individual Baked Alaska with 
Figs 

Cut sponge cake into pieces of a size 
to take, when hollowed into a case, a 
slice of brick ice-cream. The walls of 
the case should be half an inch thick, and 
the full height, about an inch and a half. 
Set the cake on a board about an inch 
thick. Put the slice of cream inside and 
cover with a piece of cake half an inch 
thick. Spread the whole with meringue, 
then pipe meringue on the edge above, 
to make a well for fruit. ]\Ieringue may 
also be piped on the sides if desired. 
Dredge the whole with granulated sugar 
and set into a hot oven to color the 
meringue slightly. Remove to a serving 
dish and fill in the open space above with 
preserved or brandied figs. Peaches, 
apricots or chestnuts may replace the 
figs. With peaches Melba sauce (rasp- 
berry) may also be used. 

Roast Suckling Pig 

The pig should be from three to six 
weeks old. Wash and wipe inside and 
out w^ith care, rub over the inside with 

Continued on page 404 



Menus for a Week in December 



A generous supply of vegetables and fruits are of the greatest importance for the 
normal development of the body and of all its functions. — Sherman, 



Breakfast 

Thin slices Salt Pork, Cream Gravy 

(dipped in flour and cooked very slowly) 

Baked Potatoes 

Waffles, Caramel Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Crown Roast of Pork, Apple Sauce 

Glazed Chestnuts 

Mashed Potatoes Turnips in Cream 

Cabbage Salad 

Spiced Apples Baked with Tapioca 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

French Toast, Currant Jelly 

Cottage Cheese Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Bacon Broiled 

Kornlet Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stewed Chicken 

Cauliflower Squash 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cranberry Sauce 

Stewed Figs, Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Fried Rice Cakes, Syrup 

Baked Squash Custard 

(Pie without crust) 

Dry Toast Tea Cocoa 



Breakfast 

Hashed Chicken on Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Salt Salmon, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled or Canned Beets, Buttered 

Mince Pie, Apple Meringue 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Raw Beef Croquettes, Tomato Sauce 

Yeast Rolls 

Hot Baked Apples 

Chocolate Nut Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin, 

Mustard 

Creamed Potatoes Pickled Beets 

Doughnuts Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Kornlet Soup 

Salmon-and-Potato Cakes, Fried 

Boiled Cabbage or Cold Slaw 

Steamed Prune Pudding, 

Hard Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Milk Toast (with &gg in sauce) 

Hot Peanut Butter Sandwiches 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

White Cornmeal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Emergency Soup 

Domestic Duckling, Roasted 

Apple Sauce Creamed Celery 

Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Apple Meringue, Cream, Sugar 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Grilled Sweet or White Potatoes 

Milk Toast Spice Cakes 

Hot Apples Sauce Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Salt Codfish Balls 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Pickled Beets 

Dry Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Crab Meat Souffle, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Scalloped Cabbage 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Potato Salad 

Sardines 

Chocolate Nougat 

Orange Marmalade 



Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 
Salt Mackerel, Broiled 
French Fried Potatoes 

Home-made Pickles 

Flannel Cakes, Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Tomato Soup 
(Duck remnants) 
Sirloin Steak, Broiled, 
Maitre d' Hotel Butter 
Sweet Potatoes, Baked 
Lettuce, Toasted Crackers, 
Chocolate Creams 
Half Cups of Coffee 
378 



Supper 

Ham Timbales 
Canned Peas in Cream Sauce 
Bread and Butter 
Cheese Bismarck Rolls 

Cocoa Tea 



Menus for Christmastide 



Dinner 



I 

Consomme a la Imperatrice 

Roast Domestic Goose, 

Apple Sauce 

Briissells Sprouts 

Mashed Potato 

Celery-and-Cranberry Salad 

Baked Alaska, with Figs 

Bonbons Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 



II 
Consomme, with Noodles 

Roast Domestic Ducks 

Celery-and-Orange Salad 

Mashed Potato Cauliflower 

Individual Charlotte Russe, 

Garnish : Cubes of Currant Jelb 

Bonbons Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 



X^ 



^^' 



Luncheon 



I 

Oyster Soup Toasted Crackers 

Olives Pickles 

Chicken Croquettes, Peas 

Lettuce, Chilli Sauce Dressing 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

Almo id Meringues, Sponge Drops 

Bonbons Salted Nuts 



II 



Grapefruit Cocktail 

Creamed Crabflakes au Gratin 

Lettuce and Celery, Chilli Sauce Dressins 

Fried Chicken, Cream Gravy 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Guava or Grape Jelly 

Coffee 

Nuts Bonbons Raisins 



III 

Tomato Bouillon 

Lamb Cliops, Maintenon 

Peas 

Parker House Rolls 

Cress Salad 

Pineapple Bavariose, Pompadour 

Lad}' Fingers 

Coffee 

Nuts Bonbons Raisins 



^? 



CARD PARTY 



I 

Chicken Croquettes 

Peas with Juliennes of Carrot 

Buttered Rolls 

Currant Jelly 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

Assorted Cake 



II 



Creamed Oysters on Toast 

Pickles Olives 

Lettuce, Cream Cheese and Pimentos, 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Graham Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Orange Sherbet 

Cake 



379 







Gifts for the Fastidious Woman 



By JNIay Belle Brooks 



TO the woman with hygienic tastes 
the usual conglomeration of be- 
ribboned and fancy Christmas of- 
ferings are almost an insult. She feels 
that, out of consideration for the donor, 
they must be displayed or put to their 
intended use, though her whole being 
cries out against their inappropriateness 
or practicality. 

Her friends know so well her views 
on the subject of sanitary belongings. 
How she has purged her home of all 
heavy, unwashable drapery, even substi- 
tuting woven rag or fiber rugs for the 
usual floor coverings ; how she has taken 
the woolen dresses off her children and 
clothed them in linens or ginghams the 
year round; and how she has gone to 
the length of persuading her husband 
to wear white or tan duck suits through- 
out the summer. 

They know all these things and laugh 
at her hygienic hobbies and still con- 
tinue to present her with satin laundry 
bags, silk pin cushions and embroidered 
pillow tops. 

Of course, it's due to thoughtlessness 
or to the fact that our Christmas list has 
grown too large for individual treatment. 
O for the courage to curtail — or behead 
— that list until it registers only as many 
names as we'd have time to do justice to ! 

But do try, at least, not to offend this 
fastidious woman any more, and I'm 
going to set down a few suggestions that 
may help you out. 



First, in the ranks of washable gifts, 
are the dining room linens, of course. 
Table runners of unbleached Russian 
crash are inexpensive but very popular. 
Hemstitch them or embroider with white, 
or, at least, mercerized cotton twist, if 
you would use color, but do beware of 
delicate silk floss that will require skilful 
cleaning. Usually, however, the sort of 
woman we are trying to please is a 
stickler for table linen that may be boiled, 
so white is the best choice for her. Plain 
white escalloped and initialed doilies are 
sure to please, as well as good service- 
able luncheon cloths. Linen napkin 
rings will be welcomed. 

A gift that is not apt to be dupli- 
cated is a set of serviettes, those little 
napkins that are so useful on the tea 
tray, or on which to serve baked potatoes, 
hot bread or cake. Make them twelve 
inches square, hemstitch or escallop, and 
place a small initial in one corner. A 
dozen or these will be a boon to any 
housekeeper or girl who entertains in- 
formally. 

Stepping into the kitchen, we find dish 
towels, hand towels, stove holders, 
aprons, dusters and bags for holding 
them as well as other things. 

A set of pan-towels are practical. They 
are merely hemmed squares of dark] 
crash, which are used to dry the pots and 
pans and are a great saving to the finer! 
and whiter dish towels. Three yards | 
will make six towels of a convenient size. 



380 



GIFTS FOR THE FASTIDIOUS WOMAN 



381 



Small strips of kitchen towelling about 
the size of a guest towel are better than 
the usual roller towel for the cook's use. 

Guest towels are never amiss, neither 
are pretty or serviceable pillow slips and 
sheets. My Lady Dainty now favors 
clean looking lingerie cushions for her 
boudoir lounge or easy chair, and wash- 
able linen ones of darker hues for the 
living room. 

It is not too early to think of porch 
furnishings and in this line, at least, 
there is something new under the sun. 
It consists in the use of white oilcloth 
for table covers and cushions. It is dec- 
orated with borders of hand-painted de- 
signs in which flowers and leaves and out 
door objects form the key note. These 
are lovely and are so easily wiped off, 
and a chance wetting does not injure. 

Linen strips for the backs of porch 
chairs are another of the many \'^rieties 
of towels from which one may select 
gifts that will wash. 

There is even a new lamp shade guar- 
anteed to launder well! It consists of 
removable sections of fine drawn-work 



or embroidery fitted into a plain frame- 
work of wood or brass. They are usually 
stretched over thin silk to give a soften- 
ing effect. 

White, linen, pin-cushion covers that 
button on or lace with ribbon are more 
practical than those gorgeous ribbon and 
lace affairs. 

There are covers to slip over dainty 
garments as they hang in the closet, 
linings or silk squares to protect the suit 
case contents and bags of all sorts to 
hold every conceivable garment. There 
are combing jackets and sleeve protectors 
and cheesecloth pads for lining the 
dresser drawers. There are folders for 
handkerchiefs, collars, gloves and veils. 

There is even the linen shopping bag 
or smaller pocket book which may go in- 
to the tub along with the dress it matches. 
Go a step farther and select a parasol 
with a linen cover, and a lingerie hat 
which may be laundered as easily as a 
baby cap. 

Indeed, we are living in such a hygienic 
age that who knows but that we may be 
washing and ironing our shoes next! 



Roses and Holly 



The bells were chiming merrily 
December's end was nigh 
And through the noisy tumult 
There breathed a stifled sigh. 

'Twas like a minor chord that creeps 
All through a glad refrain, 
It sang of roses, summer kissed, 
That fain would bloom again. 

But in the silvered twilight, 
Of the swiftly fleeting j'ear, 
Nobody seemed to listen 
And no one stopped to hear. 



For June gave birth to roses, 
That long are sear and dead, 
While silvery haired December 
Rains holly berries, red. 

There's beauty in the rosebud 
With passion neath each fold, 
But love that lives the longest 
Is the love that ne'er grows old, 

That like the aged December, 
With song upon its lips. 
Proffers a ruddy wine cup 
From which the New Year sips, 

Agnes Lockhart Hughes. 



Handkerchief Cases as Christmas Gifts 

By May Ellis Nichols 



OF making many books there is no 
end," the wise man said, and at 
this season of the year one can 
hardly resist the temptation to substitute 
"Christmas presents for books and repeat 
the dictum. Indeed the analogy need not 
stop here. Just as of the endless number 
of books, some are bad, some useless, few 
really good ; so of Christmas gifts — some 
are hopeless, more indifferent, a few, oh, 
so few really satisfactory. What then 
are the essentials of a satisfactory home- 
made Christmas gift? One, at least, of 
two qualities ; if it has both, it is perfect : 
— it must be useful, or it must be beauti- 
ful. It may, perchance, be both. 

One of the articles that may be both 
useful and beautiful is a handkerchief 
case. Everyone has handkerchiefs, so 
everyone can use a handkerchief case. 
One may be placed in each bed- 
room in a house, so an oversupply need 
not be feared ; or one may be reserved for 
especially dainty handkerchiefs, or for 
traveling. These cases are quickly and 
easily made, and are easy to send. Here 
are a few suggestions for making some 
that are dainty and unusual. 

The very simplest — one that little fin- 
gers can fashion — is made of two five- 
inch squares of ribbon or brocade, lined 
with white silk, padded and sacheted, 
bound Vv^th ribbon, and tied on two sides. 
Though this is so simple, it is especially 
useful as it fits into any corner of the 
traveling bag. 

A second case is very similar, but the 
ribbon or brocade is put over cardboard, 
so that the sides are stiff, and it is held 
together by an elastic band covered with 
shirred ribbon. The band is made by 
sewing together two twenty-inch pieces 
of inch-wide ribbon, and then "running 
in" the elastic. A bow of the ribbon 
hides the fastening. 

A third case is more complicated, but 
especially pretty. Again there is the five- 



inch square of cardboard, covered with 
silk or ribbon for the bottom. Shirred 
about this is a five-inch ribbon, making 
a bag. The top is formed by cutting tAvo 
five-inch squares in halves, making four 
pieces of five by two-and-a half inches 
each. These pieces are covered with the 
silk or ribbon like the bottom square, and 
are sewed to the four squares at the top 
of the bag. When closed they make 
double covers, one above the other. The 
two top ones may be tied with ribbon, or 
two tiny rings of bone or mother-of-pearl 
may be sewed on as handles. 

Another bag for handkerchiefs is made 
of the softest crepe de chine. It has a 
round bottom made of card board, five 
inches In circumference, and covered 
with crepe de chine. The bag, which 
is ten inches deep, is shirred full on 
the bottom, and at the top is shirred 
on a wooden ring the size of the circular 
bottom. Bows of ribbon may be added, 
if desired. Made of w^hite and bowed 
with Christmas ribbons, this is the love- 
liest handkerchief case imaginable. 

Still another soft silk bag is covered 
with netted rafiia. It is unusual and 
very attractive, and has the advantage of 
being another bag that little fingers can 
fashion. 

A case, that may be used for "turn- 
overs" as well as for handkerchiefs, has 
a stiff board foundation, fifteen inches 
long by four and one-half inches wide, 
covered with white silk or lawn, padded 
and perfumed. The outer cover, which 
is made wide enough for one side to fold 
over the other, is of white dimity dotted 
with tiny pink rosebuds. The hem is 
feather-stitched with pink floss, just the 
shade of the rose buds, and it is tied witk 
pink robbons of the same shade. This 
could, of course, be developed in other, 
colors: violets and violet ribbons, forget- 
me-nots and blue, yellow roses or daisies,' 
with yellow ribbon, would be equally at- 



382 



FLORIDA 



383 



tractive. 

An especially beautiful case — and one 
that from the nature of its material makes 
it an especially appropriate gift for a 
man — is made of leather. This may be 
white, brown, green, or almost any de- 
sired tone. A strip twenty inches long 
by eight wide is a good size. Four inches 
is turned to form a pocket at one end, 
and the remainder is folded in the mid- 
dle, making a sq^uare case. Two outside 
corners are decorated with some simple 
stencil design, outlined in gold or silver. 
In the center is stenciled the word, 
"HANDKERCHIEFS," or the shorter 
French, '':\IOUCHOIR." It is silk lined, 
to match the decoration on the outside, 
and is bound with a cord and fastened 
together with little crocheted rings. The 
whole effect is simple and substantial. 

The last case suggested is, perhaps, the 
very prettiest of all, and is especially 



appropriate because made out of a hand- 
kerchief itself. A sheer one is selected 
with a daintily embroidered edge. Its 
four corners are painted or embroidered 
in colored flowers — violets, roses, forget- 
me-nots, whatever flower is preferred. 
The handkerchief is then lined with soft 
silk to match the corners, and three of 
the corners are brought together and fas- 
tened with a bow of ribbon to match. 
The fourth corner is left free for insert- 
ing the handkerchiefs, or is turned back 
half way and fastened upon itself. 

In choosing the color for any of these 
cases the taste of the recipient, or the 
color of her room must be considered. 
If there is no special reason for selecting 
another color, the Christmas ribbons may 
be used. They are very beautiful in 
themselves, and seem to bring the spirit 
of the season with them. Such a gift is 
sure to ''prove its use." 



Florida : Its Fruits and Future 



By Julia Davis Chandler 



SOUTHERN summer is not so 
much worse than the short, fierce 
summers of the Northern States; 
it is only that it is longer. One may 
bathe in the Gulf of Mexico, or the At- 
lantic, at midday and sail without discom- 
fort. The woods offer shade and peace, 
although the sandy trails are not edifying. 

The South is out of sight and out of 
mind in summer — it is only when snows 
and blows come that it seems at all al- 
luring. However, the spring comes early 
and many good times may be had there. 
One of the surprises in the edible line is 
the profuse crop of mulberries. While 
Northerners are just getting Florida 
strawberries, the mulberries are falling in 
pailfuls, strewing the ground with rich, 
sweet fruit ; in fact, it is fed to the chick- 
ens. 

Mulberries may be made into jam, or 



simply canned ; it is used, with oatmeal or 
cream of wheat and such cereals, at 
breakfast, for delicious hot shortcakes, 
and pies or tarts, for steamed batter pud- 
ding and baked cup pudding, with mul- 
berry sauce ; or the mulberries may be 
put in the pudding itself like blueberries 
or blackberries. 

In fact, mulberries are much like 
sweet blackberries ; and because when 
ripe they are insipid, many people do not 
like them and let them go to waste. If 
mixed with a large proportion of mulber- 
ries just turning red, the desired acid 
will be given either to shortcake or pre- 
serves, or to any one of the foregoing 
list of ways of serving. 

At a recent evening gathering, in a 
place away from shops and restaurants, a 
spread for the guests included a fruit 
punch of the combined citrus fruits, 



384 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



oranges of different flavors, lemons, 
grapefruit and plenty of mulberry juice. 
In the north we would have used grape 
juice, or claret. With plenty of fine 
pecans, to make nut cake, and brown 
sugar pralines, or penuche, there is no 
lack of sweet attractive edibles for young 
folks. 

A friendly farmer, or Florida 
"Cracker," informs the new comers 
where to find a bee tree, and then after 
some work by manly arms a lot of honey 
is secured. Of course, the bees have to 
be smoked out with punky old wood, 
and some swarms are secured in home- 
made hives for the new home started in 
the pine woods by a clear lake. Much 
of the honey will be worthless and full 
of bee bread, but in a hole of several 
feet there is plenty to eat for luncheon 
and carry home in pails, to wax thread 
and irons, and cover jelly jars, instead of 
parraffine, for a long time. 

Except at show places like Palm 
Beach, the beautiful flowers and abund- 
antly fruited trees are seen growing out 
of sand, wire grass and burrs ; they must 
be fertilized twice a year. The owners 
of orange orchards sometimes go to bed 
hungry, because the trees must be fed. 

The Florida oranges are about gone 
by April, but they are at the greatest 
perfection of sweetness and full of juice 
toward the last of the season. The 
Florida method of eating them is to peel 
the orange like an apple and eat it so. 
A Northern girl who has settled there 
says : I don't believe I can ever content 
myself with eating an orange in the way 
I used to, peeling it all carefully and eat- 
ing it by sections. I peel them now like 
an apple, but leave the white inner skin 
on, then cut the orange in halves, and 
bite out the pulp and juice. This is not 
a very elegant way of eating at the table. 



but as I eat them out of doors from the 
trees, six or seven at a time, it is the way 
to enjoy the flavor. 

A few orange trees and pecans, a river 
where there are fish, a patch for sweet 
potatoes and vegetables, some hens, and 
a good part of the table supply is readily 
procured. Of course pigs range the 
woods and these may be used instead of 
a Thanksgiving turkey. It takes ammuni- 
tion to bring down game, and money to 
buy coffee and clothes. Butter and milk 
are luxuries in Florida, for the poor cows 
have to wade out into the streams to 
munch the abundant water-hyacinths that 
choke the streams, though here we grow 
them in our water gardens for their blos- 
soms and curious foliage, supported by 
air-bladders. 

There are two sides to every picture ; 
on the one side are Marechal Neil roses, 
by the armful, and oranges galore, and 
waving palms and bananas ; on the other 
side are bare turpentine forests, dark 
streams, sandy wastes, and land frauds 
deluding many a struggling settler ; there 
are fashionable crowds spending for- 
tunes for winter gaiety, and settlements 
that need leaders of a different calibre. 
With the crowding of our country, the 
food supply needed will induce thrifty 
emigrants to settle, or those who control 
large areas of land and much capital will 
arrange for such to settle, upon the sandy 
stretches along the Atlantic Coast from 
New Jersey southward to Florida, and 
farm by intensive methods. 

Pine apples will grow if only stuck into 
the coral rock of the abundant keys off 
the coast of Florida, and with canals and 
drainage improvements, facilitating irri- 
gation, also, Florida will come into prom- 
inence, especially after the Panama Canal 
is open. The future growth and pros- 
perity of all southland is assured. 




HOTS^EE 




EC°N°MIB3 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Just Stockings 

By May Belle Brooks 



BEFORE parting for the holidays, 
the girls of a certain college 
planned a farewell party, and for 
their motif chose that very feminine as 
well as Christmasy theme — stockings. 

The committee appointed for arrange- 
ments sent out invitations on Bristol 
board of the college colors, cut in the 
shape of a stocking, which contained the 
following request : 

"Bring along your holeyest hose with 
proper darning materials and five cents 
in change." 

Mystified, the girls came and were 
ushered into Sara's room, which now sug- 
gested a bargain sale — or the w^ash-lady's 
kitchen on a rainy Monday! Stockings 
of all sizes and conditions of servitude 
hung from lines stretched across the 
room and one long one tacked to the door 
was the coffer into which each girl 
dropped her nickle. From the mantle a 
row of bulging hose lent a suggestion of 
Santa Claus. 

Each of the committee wore a stocking 
stretched over her head and one girl, 
noted for her literary proclivities, wore 
a blue stocking; but, funniest of all to 
the guests, they received in their stocking 
feet! Then, like the Disciples of old, 
before they could enter the room, every 
girl was compelled to remove her own 
shoes, and the affair proceeded from 
start to finish with feet en neglige! 

The fun began by blindfolding three 
girls, at a time, and allowing them three 
minutes in which to pull as many stock- 
ings as they could from the lines, which 



were just out of reach and had to be 
jumped at to obtain a hold. When all 
the stockings were down, they had to be 
])ut up again, and each girl was respon- 
sible for the re-hanging of all that she 
had succeeded in pulling down. 

As this required much exertion, some- 
thing quiet was in order, so they were 
now set to work mending those "holey 
hose." \'otes were taken on the hand- 
work and the creator of the neatest darn 
was the recipient of much honor. One 
of the girls snatched the stocking bank 
from the door and, emptying its contents 
on the Xeat-handed One, said : — 

"Brides have no monopoly on stocking 
showers. This rainfall is to be used 
solely for the purchase of a pair of silk 
stockings for your own dainty feet." 
Now they understood that request for 
five cents. 

No affair, vows a college girl, is com- 
plete without a spread, so refreshments 
came next. And now the bulging dis- 
play on the mantle gave up its secrets as, 
one by one, the grocery-store packages, 
containing cheese and pickles and cakes 
and all the time-honored indispensables 
of a spread, came tumbling forth. The 
only novelties were a bag of cookies 
baked in the form of stockings, while 
the sandwiches were shaped in a similar 
manner. It was quite easy to cut these 
with a tin cutter made by an accommo- 
dating handy brother. 

The last thing enjoyed was the making 
of a pile of tarletan stocking bags for 
the Christmas tree of a Children's Home. 



385 



386 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



While doing this, stories were told of 
"The Best Thing I Ever Found in my 
Stocking." 

But so rampant was the Christmas 
Spirit that this jolly, cozy party could 
not end without some exhibition of its 
workings, for the girl with the neatest 
darn to her credit surprised the com- 
pany with — "Come with me, girls, I'm 
going to spend my silk stocking money 
for candy to fill those sacks !" m. b. b. 



Looking Ahead 

LATE summer, or early fall, may 
seem to some rather early to be 
thinking of Santa Clans, and his visits, 
but it is none too soon, if one doesn't 
want to be rushed at the last moment. 
Dainty lingerie waists for one's dearest 
friend, sheer linen kerchiefs, fichus, col- 
lars and cuffs, a hand-embroidered ruffle 
to be buttoned on to a plain petticoat, a 
set of doihes worked in the friend's fa- 
vorite blossoms, a little tea apron from a 
bit of pretty organdy, a white kid belt 
hand-painted in the exquisite forget-me- 
not, all these can be made leisurely, and 
put away in a chest, made fragrant with 
sachet, and one hardly realizes the work 
that has been done. Or, if one has 
neither the ability nor inclination for 
hand work, it could be made a "Book 
Year." A book or two purchased at a 
time, from now on to December, will not 
be such a trial to eyes and nerves, nor to 
one's check-book, and they too can be 
laid away until the time arrives for 
wrapping them. There are so many 
beautiful gift books, and a large number 
with Christmas as the theme. Indeed, it 
would be a misanthrope who would not 
be pleased with any chosen from the fol- 
lowing list: — 

On Christmas Day in the Morning 
(Grace S. Richmond). 

On Christmas Day in the Evening, by 
the same. 

Christmas Eve on Lonesome (John 
Fox, Jr.). 



Round about the Christmas Tree 
(Thackeray). 

Christmas Carol (Dickens). 

The Birds' Christmas Carol (Wig- 
gins). 

Christmas at the Trimbles (Stuart). 

A Christmas Fantasy (Aldrich). 

The First Christmas Tree (Van 
Dyke). 

Col. Carter's Christmas (F. Hopkin- 
son Smith). 

How Santa Came to Simpson's Bar 
(Bret Harte). 

Apollo Belvidere (Stuart). 

Christmas Wreck (Frank Stockton). 

Boyhood of Christ in Ben Hur (Lew 
Wallace). 

The Chimes (Dickens). 

Christmas (Robert Haren Schauffler). 

Christmas and its Associations (W. F. 
Dawson). 

Christmas in Heart and Home (Elsie 
Trant). 

The Sook of Christmas (Hervey). 

The Festival of Christmas (Mary 
Mapes Dodge). 

If books are not welcome, one could 
send baskets. There are such a great va- 
riety that among them a choice could 
surely be made. Fancy ones from Mex- 
ico, Japan, the fragrant sweet grass bas- 
kets, made by the Indians of the north- 
west, the Alaska, the Yakima, the 
Laguna, and so on. These come in wee 
ones, holding a tiny cupful of sweets, up 
to resplendent hampers, and range in 
price from five cents to two hundred dol- 
lars. 

At any rate, there is never a dearth of 
gifts to be made, or purchased; and they 
who prepare for Christmas away "ahead 
of time", make ready for the love-laden 
remembrance for sleighbell time, while 
the roses nod and bloom, will have a far 
more beautiful and satisfactory array, 
than those who wait until the last mo- 
ment, then scramble, and in nine cases 
out of ten remember, after the package 
is speeding away, that it was hopelessly 
out of place, and that it will not alone 
fail to give pleasure, but mark the sender 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



387 



a.-, careless, and lacking tact. After all it 
is tact, and sincere kindliness, that oil 
the wheels of life, and help make it "One 
grand sweet song." e. c. l. 

* * * 

When Santa Is Personal 

THERE is something especially dear 
about the gift that has the personal 
note, that could have been intended for 
no one but ourselves. Perhaps it touches 
upon our particular hobby, or is marked 
with our monogram by the painstaking 
stitches of a friend. Such a gift brings 
with it a comforting consciousness that it 
could not have been chosen at the last 
moment from a miscellany of prospective 
presents. 

The girl of limited means does well to 
take this fact into consideration, for the 
personal touch lends to an ordinary gift 
an air of distinction. 

A gift which every girl will prize is a 
pair of silk stockings embroidered with 
her monogram. Plain stockings of good 
quality may be purchased by the dozen, 
for a very reasonable sum. One need be 
only ordinarily clever with the needle, to 
embroider the monograms, neither does it 
require much time. Nothing can be 
bought in the shops, for the same amount, 
that is half so dainty or bespeaks so 
much attention. 

Sheer, hemstitched handkerchiefs of 
good quality are also inexpensive, if 
bought by the quantity, and are easy to 
embroider with a tiny letter or mono- 
gram. 

The most ordinary of bed linen be- 
comes dainty and attractive by the addi- 
tion of an embroidered letter. 

One girl watched the bargain counters 
for shop-soiled towels, which she pur- 
chased for about half their original price. 
When these had been marked and laun- 
dered, she had dehghtful gifts for all her 
girl friends. Some of them, which were 
especially lovely, she made by adding a 
bit of insertion in diamond shape round 
the letter, and cutting away the material 
underneath. 



In the same way one has opportunity 
to purchase all sorts of table linen, hem- 
stitched napkins, and lunch cloths, and 
scalloped doilies. Embroidered, they 
make gifts that any housewife will prize. 
And the best part of it all is that one 
can never have too many of these prac- 
tical things. 

One girl delighted her friends with the 
most charming embroidered medallions 
made by surrounding the monogram with 
an edging of lace. Three were included 
in each set, and they were intended to be 
set in fine under-garments. 

A charming and novel idea is the 
strictly personal book-mark. It is made 
by embroidering either the initial or the 
name on a strip of linen, which is then 
finished with an edging of lace. Two or 
three of these make a dainty gift for a 
book-lover, and will be especially appre- 
ciated ; as they are too thin to injure even 
the most delicate book, they may be laun- 
dered and thus kept immaculate, and 
when several persons chance to be read- 
ing the same book, there is never any 
question as to whose marker it is. These 
markers cling to the paper, and do not 
slide out as cards or metal markers are 
given to doing. 

The idea of the personal gift may be 
made to fit almost all circumstances, and 
repays many times for the little work it 
involves. a. m. a. 

* * * 

A Contrast 

HAVE you ever been in a kitchen, 
daintily appointed, and with plenty 
of modern conveniences for doing the 
work, — on ironing day? If so, you may 
well have wondered at the disorderly 
looking affairs that both ironing boards 
and holders are apt to be, — with burnt 
holes showing all sorts of ragged edge? 
of parti-colored cloth. In half the 
kitchens I know, rags, as working tools, 
come to the fore on that day. When the 
rags give out, more are patched on, 
some how ! 

The Little Wise Lady knows a trick 



388 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



worth many of that. Her ironing board 
is covered, first, with several thick layers 
of unbleached canton flannel or outing 
flannel, drawn perfectly smooth, and 
tacked securely on the under side of the 
board. Then, the outer cover, shaped 
exactly to fit, — like a bag of new un- 
bleached muslin, closed at the smaller 
end, — is drawn neatly over, and tied 
tightly in place with tapes, at the larger 
end. No worn-out sheets for her. The 
outer cover, so made, can be slipped ofif, 
as often as it grows soiled, and washed. 
To avoid danger of shrinkage, it is well 
to boil the muslin, once, in the piece. 
'T used to tack the outer cover on, after 
the canton flannel was already tacked, 
and that answered far better than the or- 
dinary, shiftless way," she told me, "but 
this is so much more satisfactory! And 
please notice the nice big screw-eye in 
the end of the board, by which I hang it 
up!" 

I noticed, too, that all the holders in 
her kitchen were of the same neat fash- 
ion. "Four thicknesses of the canton 
flannel, covered with the muslin, and 
cross-stitched in the middle, makes the 
most available holder for using around 
the stove," she said. ''Even the brass 
ring sewed to the corner on each one, 
doesn't interfere wnth their being put in 
to the wash and boiled clean, every week. 
As there is no color to run, they come out 
looking fresh and tidy, and I am not 
ashamed to have any stranger see them 
hanging in plain view. Rings, to hang 
them by, are better than loops, because 
they don't catch on the nail or hook when 
needed in haste, — where a moment's 
delay may mean a burned hand. I've 
seen too many scalds and broken dishes 
as a consequence of too few holders, — a 
maid having caught up a damp dish-towel 
in order to lift a hot dish, and the steam 
thus formed striking up against the hand, 
— ever to economize in that direction !" 

L. E. D. 

* * * 

A FAMOUS Georgian cook makes 
most delicious, sweet, peach pickles 
in the following simple fashion: She 



pares firm cling-stone peaches and packs 
them, cold, into large stoneware jars; 
when filled, she pours over them suffi- 
cient table syrup to cover, using just the 
convenient kind that may be bought in 
bulk. A plate placed over the jar and 
tied down with a white cloth, to exclude 
all dust, is all the covering that is neces- 
sary. 

In a short time the syrup begins to 
"work," the acid of the fruit turning it 
into a swe^t vinegar. In about two 
months the pickles are ready for use, and 
they seem only the more delicious as one 
nears the bottom of the jar. l. m. c. 
* * * 

The Most Perfect Food 

THE food in question is from a 
plant of the family of the legumes, 
which is cultivated and eaten a great 
deal by the natives of tropical Africa, 
and which is found occasionally in 
southern Asia and in Brazil. Its Afri- 
can name is woandsii, and its botanical 
appellation is glycine subterranea. The 
fruit of the ivoandsu, which consists of 
a pod with a kernel, ripening under- 
ground like the peanut, has recently been 
chemically analyzed. The kernel is oval, 
dark red with black stripes and a white 
spot, which makes it somewhat similar 
to the bean, except for the fact that 
there is no black band about the spot. 
It grinds into a very white meal, which 
tastes when cooked much like a chestnut. 
The samples analyzed came from Ban- 
gasso, on the upper Ubangi. The ker- 
nels weigh from .35 to 1.10 grams, and 
their chemical composition is as follows : 
58% starchy elements, 19% nitrogenous 
materials, 10% water, 6% carbonaceous 
elements, 4% cellulose, 3% mineral 
matter. If we accept the physiological 
dictum that the human organism de- 
mands every day from 120 to 130 grams 
of nitrogen, 56 grams of fat and 500 
grams of carbo-hydrates, all of these re- 
quirements would be found in two 
pounds of woandsu beans. This is the 
first natural substance discovered which 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



389 



contains in itself alone all the chemical 
elements of a completely adequate food, 
and in a very reasonable proportion. 

R. T. H. 

* * * 
Cheese Fish 

CHEESE used with fish is seldom 
seen in this country, but is usually 
well-liked when once tried. For the 
average meal use two ounces of dried 
bread crumbs and the same of cheese. 
Take cold white fish and flake it. In a 
well-buttered baking dish place a thick 
layer of the fish, next bread crumbs, 
then the cheese ; proceed until all is used. 
Then pour over this some cold milk 
(about a teacup), seasoned with salt, 
white pepper and a teaspoonful of dried 
celery — powdered — also a small bit of 
thyme ; let this soak through well, then 
bake for about twenty-five minutes. 
Serve, either hot or as a cold luncheon 
dish, with Worcestershire or some simi- 
lar sauce. 

Push Pins 

I know of few small articles that help 
one in so many ways as these little push 
pins. 

When windows are wide opened, cur- 
tains are prone to sail far into the room, 
but can be securely held in place by these 
pins and the fabric is not torn. 

Should one wish to write near a win- 
dow where too much breeze scatters the 
paper, these pins hold the paper in place. 

If sketching in a stiff breeze, they do 
their duty again. 

In the children's room pictures are 
fastened by them to the wall without in- 
juring it, which is a blessing, as children 
love to change pictures so often. On the 
desk they hold in position the needful 
blotting pad. 

If reading in the wind, especially on 
deck at sea, these little pins are wel- 
comed to hold the leaves from the con- 
tinued flapping that is nerve-racking to 
the reader and others nearby. 



One often find water marks upon 
their polished dining tables or other arti- 
cles, with a high gloss, but, if you will 
make a rather thin paste of salt and 
olive oil and spread it on the spot and 
let it remain about three-quarters of an 
hours, then remove carefully and polish 
the spot with soft dry flannel, the furni- 
ture will look as well as new. e. c. l. 
* * * 

A Song 

On the heavy-sliding deep 

Of your sleep, 
Glides a silver-gleaming dream, little child, 
Light with fancies, bright with glances, 
As the water round it dances. 
And the brooding of the silence and the stream 

Makes it seem 
Like a fairy barque come true, 
Sailing home at last to you, 
Thru the blue, little child, thru the blue. 

And the breeze that keeps the boat 

Still afloat, 
With its silver sails asweep. little child, 
Is the blessing — all-possessing, 
Of the mother-love caressing, 
As the little dream sails homeward on the deep 

Of your sleep, 
To a song that holds the tears, 
And the joys, and the fears, 
Of the years, little child, of the years. 

Helex Cowles LeCron. 



The Whole Hurried Family 

^lother is busy as busy can be 

With golfing and teas of pink. 
"Have you sewed on that button?" said dad — 
said she 

"Oh, I haven't had time to — I'' 

Dad is busy, and full of glee : 

Gold-gathering — chink-a-clink. 
"Did vou match that sample?" said she — said 
he 

"Xo, !"' 

Lad is busy as well as they ; 

From football he does not shrink. 
"Your studies?" said dad— said lad "Oh say — 

"Why !" 

Girl is busy — not quite as these — 

Blushing, she braves the brink. 
Said he "Dear, please—" said she "Wait please 

"For ! 

And I might go on regardless of time. 

Just using up pens and ink; 
If I could find words with words to rhyme, 

But got 



Grace Stone Field. 










THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit Si. 00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Bostojj Cooking School Magazine, 373 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 1911 — Continued 

Cornstarch Pudding 

Omit the peaches and meringue from 
the preceding recipe. Serve hot, turned 
from the double boiler, with cream and 
sugar. An ounce of melted chocolate 
may be stirred in before the eggs and 
sugar. 

Steamed Chocolate Pudding, 
Sultana Sauce 



Pudding 
1 cup of sifted pastry 

flour 
li teaspoonfuls of 

baking powder 
i a teaspoonful of 

cinnamon 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
1 egg 
i a cup of sugar 



3 tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter 
i a cup of milk 
2 ounces of chocolate 

Sauce 
i a cup of sultana 

raisins 
1 cup of boiling 

water 
i a cup of sugar 
Flavor to taste 



Sift together the flour, baking powder, 
cinnamon and salt. Beat the yolk of 
egg light, the white till dry; beat the 
sugar into the yolk of egg; add the but- 
ter and milk and stir into the first mix- 
ture ; add the chocolate melted over hot 
water and, lastly, the white of ^gg. 
Steam in two or three cups about twenty- 
five minutes. 

Steamed Prune Pudding 



J a cup of stale 
bread crumbs 
i a cup of flour 



1 level teaspoonful 

of baking powder 
h a cup of fine- 



chopped suet 
J a cup of sugar 
1 Ggg, beaten light 
i a cup of prune 



puree 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
h a cup of milk 



Mix together the crumbs, flour and 
baking powder, suet and sugar. To the 
beaten egg add the puree, salt and milk. 
Stir the liquid into the dry ingredients. 
Steam two hours in a buttered, tight- 
closed mold. An empty baking pow- 
der box makes a good mold. Leave 
plenty of room for the pudding to swell. 
Serve with hard or liquid sauce. For a 
larger pudding take two or three times 
the quantity of each ingredient. 

Charlotte Russe, with Jelly Holi 

Line the bottom and sides of an oval 
Charlotte mold with thin slices of sponge 
jelly-roll. Soften one and a half table- 
spoonfuls of gelatine in one-third a cup 
of cold milk and dissolve in one cup of 
scalded milk; add a scant half-cup of 
sugar and stir until dissolved, then add 
one teaspoonful of vanilla and three 
tablespoonfuls of sherry Vv^ine and stir 
over ice and water until the mixture 
begins to tlticken, then fold in one cup 
and a half of cream, beaten very light 
but not dry. \\'hen the mixture holds 
its shape, use to fill the prepared mold. 
Slices of plain sponge cake may replace 
the jelly-roll. 



Prune Jellv 



390 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



391 



J a package of gela- 
tine 
i a cup of cold water 
'i a pound of prunes, 
cooked 



1 cup of sugar 
Juice of 1 lemon 
i to i a cup of 
orange marmalade 



Soften the gelatine in the cold water, 
and dissolve in the hot juice from the 
prunes; add the sugar and stir until 
dissolved ; add the prunes, stoned and 
cut in pieces, the lemon juice and marm- 
alade.' There should be a scant quart 
of material. Lacking this quantity, add 
a little water. Stir in a pan of ice- 
water, occasionally, until beginning to 
set, then turn into a mold. Serve with 
cream and sugar or a thin boiled cus- 
tard. 



Query 1912. — "Recipe for Peanut Butter." 

Peanut Butter 

As we understand the matter peanut 
butter is simply peanuts, roasted, shelled, 
blanched and ground as fine as possible. 
Possibly salt for seasoning may be 
mixed through the paste. 



Query 1913. — "Recipes for Cooking Chest- 
nuts, including Marrons Glace." 

Chestnuts, Stewed, Creamed, Etc. 

Cut a half-inch slit in one side of the 
chestnut shells ; let cook in boiling water 
two minutes, drain and dry. To each 
pint of nuts add a teaspoonful of butter 
or oil and stir and shake in the oven 
three or four minutes ; then remove 
shell and skin together. Keep the nuts 
covered while shelling is in process — to 
accelerate the work. Stew the shelled 
and blanched nuts very gently in con- 
somme; season as needed and serve. 
Or, cook in boiling water, drain and add 
to an equal measure of cream or Becha- 
mel sauce. Or, sprinkle the creamed 
chestnuts with a little grated cheese, 
cover with buttered crumbs and let 
brown in the oven. Cooked chestnuts 
and Brussels sprouts, half and half, are 
often served in hot cream, seasoned with 
salt and pepper. 



Chestnuts for Stuffing Fowl 

Stew the chestnuts until about half 
cooked; drain, mix with butter, salt and 
pepper to season and use to fill a turkey, 
capon or pullet for- roasting. Also, 
press the chestnuts, cooked tender, 
through a sieve, season as needed and 
use for stufifing. For a more elaborate 
stuffing cook a dozen and a half of large 
blanched chestnuts until nearly tender, 
drain and leave whole ; add one cup of 
soft bread crumbs, one-third a cup of 
pork sausage, one-fourth a cup of butter, 
the liver of the fowl, chopped fine, a 
tablespoon ful of chopped parsley, half 
a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, also 
a little onion juice, if desired, with salt 
and pepper as needed. Mix thoroughly 
and use. 

Puree of Chestnuts 

Cooked chestnuts pressed through a 
sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper, cream 
or butter and made very hot, makes a 
puree that is particularly good with 
broiled lamb chops or fillets of beef. 

Chestnut Custard 



1 cup of chestnut 

puree 
3 eggs 

1 cup of milk 
i a teaspoonful of 



vanilla 
4 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar for meringue 
i a cup of sugar 



Add the beaten eggs — omitting the 
whites of two — gradually, to the chest- 
nut pulp (chestnuts cooked and sifted), 
also the sugar, vanilla, and milk, and 
bake in a buttered mold. Make a me- 
ringue of the whites of the two eggs, re- 
served for the purpose, and the sugar. 
S]M-ead over the custard and return to 
the oven to color the meringue. This 
custard is improved by a sprinkling of 
chopped cherries below the meringue. 

Chestnut llenverse 

Bake the above mixture in a mold 
lined with caramel. Half a cup of sugar 
will make caramel enough to line a 
mold for this custard. 



392 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Castellane Pudding 



2 teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla extract 

i a pound of French 
fruit 

Maraschino 

2 ounces of gelatine 

1 cup of cold water 



1 pound of French 

chestnuts 
1 cup of sugar 
i a cup of water 
1 quart of milk 
The yolks of eight 

eggs 
i a cup of sugar 

Shell, blanch and cook the chestnuts, 
then pound in a mortar with the sugar 
and water, cooked together five minutes, 
and pass through a sieve. Make a boiled 
custard with the milk, yolks of eggs, 
and the half cup of sugar; add the gel- 
atine, softened in the cold water, and 
strain into the chestnut mixture. Set 
into a pan of ice water and beat with a 
whisk until the mixture begins to set. 
Let ' the fruit, half a cup of chest- 
nuts, pineapple, cherries, etc., all cut in 
small pieces, stand some time covered 
with maraschino. When the mixture be- 
gins to set, drain the fruit and put into 
a mold, alternately, with the chestnut 
preparation. Let stand until very cold 
and set. Serve with whole chestnuts, 
cooked in syrup and flavored with 
vanilla. This amount will serve eighteen 
people. 

Mont Blanc 

Press one pint of cooked chestnuts 
through a sieve; add one-third a cup of 
sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
teaspoonful of vanilla, mix thoroughly 
and shape in a dome on a serving dish. 
Beat one cup and a half of cream, one- 
third a cup of sugar and half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and spread or pipe 
it over the chestnut puree. 

Preserved Chestnuts, with Ice 
Cream 

Cut preserved chestnuts in slices and 
set in glasses with a little of the syrup; 
put ice cream (vanilla preferred) above 
and a few more slices with syrup above. 

Marrons Glace 

Simmer whole blanched chestnuts, that 



have been cooked tender in boiling water, 
in sugar and water (each equal in 
weight to the chestnuts) until they look 
somewhat transparent; repeat the sim- 
mering two or three times; remove and 
let dry. Cook two cups of sugar and 
one of water to hard crack, just as in 
making fondant; add a few drops of 
lemon juice. Take the nuts on the point 
of a larding needle, dip them into the 
syrup and drop on a piece of table oil 
cloth or oiled plate. .310 (about) is the 
degree to which the sugar should be 
boiled. 



Query 1914. — "How may grease spots be 
removed from plastered walls which have 
been painted." 

Removal of Spots from Painted 
Walls 

Sometimes grease may be washed from 
a painted wall with soap and cold water 
and without injury to the paint. Also a 
small spot may be removed by applying 
French chalk, in powdered form, to the 
spot and holding a hot ( ?) ilatiron 
against the wall over the chalk. Spread 
the chalk on a piece of paper, carefully 
turn the paper against the wall, then grad- 
ually replace the hand with the flatiron. 
Sometimes more than one application of 
chalk will be needed. Grease spots can 
be successfully removed from wall paper 
in this manner. If the spot covers con- 
siderable space, the chalk might be mixed 
to a paste with water and the paste 
spread over the spot ; cover with a soft 
paper and then use the iron. 



Query 1915.— "In making cake should the 
flour be put in gradually, beating hard all of 
the time, or all at once. My cake is too 
porous." 

How Add Flour to Cake 

When liquid, as milk, is used in cake, 
the milk and flour are usually added al- 
ternately, simply because the flour is thus 
more easily incorporated into the mix- 
ture. If cake is too porous, probably 
too much baking powder, or cream of 
tartar and soda, has been used. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Crest Chocolates 
Aarwomz^ V/tA tA^ 
>6/oo7J!;of/i/e. 
^eyar^ awori^st t^^ 
choice tAip^^Auz/^ap 

(h eDo//a r APour?c) . 




zy5 

choi#olat:e1 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
393 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



Qrery 1916. — "In cake making, can plain 
wheat flour be substituted for pastry flour?" 

Pastry Flour 

In these pages we speak, as a rule, of 
but two kinds of flour, bread flour and 
pastry flour. A bread flour takes up a 
large quantity of liquid; a pastry flour 
takes up but little liquid ; a pastry flour is 
granular and falls through the sieve 
easily. Pastry flour is oily and does not 
pass through the sieve easily — (compara- 
tively). Bread flour is used with yeast. 
Pastry flour is used for all purposes 
where yeast is not called for. 



Query 1917. — "Can plain wheat flour be sub- 
stituted for cornstarch?' 

Substituting Cornstarch for Flour 

Bulk for bulk, cornstarch has a greater 
thickening power than flour. In using 
potato flour half the quantity of wheat 
flour designated is all that is required; 
but we have not made enough experi- 
ments with cornstarch to determine what 
proportion of a certain bulk of flour 
should be taken when cornstarch is to be 
rUsed in its place. 



Query 1918. — "Recipe for a highly seasoned 
Salad Dressing, pink in color, used for green 
vegetables." 

Highly Seasoned Pink Salad 
Dressing 

Mix ten drops of tabasco sauce, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt, mus- 
tard and paprika, two tablespoonfuls of 
chili sauce, two tablespoonfuls of fine- 
chopped pimentos, ten drops of onion 
juice and half a tablespoonful of cider 
vinegar; when evenly blended, add a 
generous tablespoonful of mayonnaise 
dressing and beat all together smoothly. 



F. ; remove from the fire, add half a cup 
(one- fourth a pound) of butter cut into 
small pieces, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt and half a teaspoonful of coffee ex- 
tract and mix well but with as little stir- 
ring as is possible. Pour on to an oiled 
platter or marble, spread evenly with 
a palette knife and mark or cut with a 
knife into squares of about one inch and 
a half. 



Soft Butter Scotch 



2 lbs. of sugar 
1 cup of water 
i a cup of corn syrup 
i a teaspoonful of 
cream-of-tartar 



I a cup of butter 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
Vanilla 



Stir the sugar, water, corn syrup and 
cream of tartar over the fire until boil- 
ing; add the butter and cook to about 
248° F. Remove from the fire, add 'the 
salt, and vanilla to flavor, mix and turn 
on to an oiled marble ; spread with a 
palette knife to one-fourth an inch thick- 
ness. When cooled somewhat mark in 
blocks one inch wide and one inch and 
a half long. When cold break apart and 
wrap in waxed paper. 



Query 1920.— "What is the proportion of 
liquid yeast used for one loaf of bread?" 

Liquid Yeast for one Loaf 
of Bread 

One-fourth a cup of liquid yeast is the 
quantity allowed for a loaf of bread. 



Query 1919.— "Recipes for making Coffee 
Taffy and Butter Scotch." 

Coffee Butter Taffy 

Cook two pounds of sugar, one cup 
and a fourth of water and one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar to 340° 

394 



Query 1921.— "Recipe for curing and smok- 
ing hams." 

To Cure and Smoke Hams, 

Virginia Style 

For fifty pounds of ham use six 
pounds of salt, two pounds and one-half 
of sugar, or three pints of molasses, one 
ounce of bicarbonate of soda, one ounce 
of saltpeter, and two gallons, or more, of 
water. Cover the bottom of an oak bar- 
rel, or firkin, with a layer of salt. Mix 
the rest of the salt and the sugar, or 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



"Just add a dash 
before serving^' 

It's really the secret of 
good cooking 




You can be sure of getting a real English Worcestershire 
Sauce when you buy Holbrook's— for every bottle is made in 
their original English factory and imported under seal. 



Worcestci 




hire C^ 

^*s oaucc 



Imported Absolutely ! ! 





THE IDEAL 
TABLE SERVANT 



i^^^ 



A GIFT THAT IS DIFFERENT, UNIQUE AND USEFUL 

With the unusual opportunity of a Ten Day Free Trial to test its value 



The popularity of Servette, the Ideal Table Waitress, and 
its enthusiastic endorsement by many happy users is a nat- 
ural appreciation of the distinctive advantages possessed 
by Servette. 

The Nevjr Jersey State Federation of Women's Clubs, at 
their Household Experimental Station, in solving the 'Ser- 
vant Problem," as related in the Scientific American by Mrs. 
Mary Pattison, adopted the revolving centerpiece. 

Servette solves the servant problem perfectly. Revolves 
and passes everything on the table. Indispensable for the 
late luncheon or supper. Makes a most attractive appear- 
ance and gives perfect service at all times. The top is made 
of the finest French Plate Glass, the base, of classic design, 
>8 heavily nickel-plated and highly polished. Can be used in 
the parlor or den or on the side table at cards. 

Endorsed by Good Housekeepinglnstitute, Serial No. 469, 
also Marion H. Neil, Philadelphia School of Cookery, Marshall 
P. Wilder. Madam Alia Nazimova and many other prominent 
people. 



As a gift Servette possesses many unusual advantages. 
It offers the opportunity to give something distinctive. An 
article of rich and attractive appearance at a normal cost, 
lasts a lifetime, is in constant use every day, giving perfect 
service to the grateful owner. 

To allow you an opportunity of testing the desirability 
of Servette as a gift, we will send you one 

ON TEN DAYS' FREE TRIAL 

You can demonstrate it in your own home ; if it does not 
meet your expectations send it back at our expense. 

The regular price of Servelte is $15.00. To all sending 

$10.00, we will ship Servette prepaid in accordance with tut 

guarantee. This offer is limited. 

GUARANTEE.— Try it ten days — if not satisfied return at our 
expense and we will refund your money. 

Send us the size of the dining table and we will send 
correct size Servette. 

McGRAW MFG. CO., 50 East St., McGraw, N.Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
395 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



molasses, and with this thoroughly rub 
each ham, then put it, skin side down, in 
the barrel. Put the remainder of the salt 
and sugar in the water, add the soda and 
saltpetre, dissolved in a little cold water, 
and pour this over the meat. There 
should be enough to cover well. Place a 
board bearing a weight on top of the 
meat, and let remain from four to eight 
weeks, according to size and the saltness 
desired. Drain two days, then smoke, 
in a place from which the air is excluded, 
four weeks. Hang the hams, hock down- 
wards, and the skin will retain the juices 
of the meat. Smoke with corn-cobs, 
green hickory or maple wood. 



Note — This recipe has not been tested but 
comes from a good source. The saltpetre is 
used simply to give a red color, not being very 
wholesome it should be omitted. The time 
given to salting seems long; experience is 
needed to settle this point conclusively.— 
Editor. 



Query 1922.— "Kindly give a list of a com- 
bination of two wholesome dishes that may be 
used for school luncheons. The cooking has 
to be done by one woman on the stove in the 
domestic science kitchen." 

School Luncheons 

Succotash 
Bread and Butter Sandwiches 



Creamed Haddock • 
Scalloped Potatoes or 
Sandwiches 

Corned Beef Hash 
Bread, Butter and Olive Sandwiches 

Cheese Pudding 

Baked Apples, Thin Cream, or 

Raw Apples, or both 

Tomato Bisque Soup, Crackers 
Chocolate Bread Pudding with Raisins 

Round Steak en Casserole 
Buttered Rolls 

Fresh Fish Chowder, Crackers 

(Philadelphia Relish) 

Lemon Jelly with Nuts, Thin Cream, Sugar 



Ham Sandwiches 

Chocolate Cream Pie 

Cocoa 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin 

Vanilla Ice Cream (junket) 

Cookies 

Macaroni with Tomatoes and Cheese 

(double boiler) 

Soft Custard, Nut Cake 



Query 1923. — "Recipe for Sauce Tartare." 

Sauce Tartare 

To a pint of mayonnaise sauce, made 
with mustard, add a shallot (small mild 
onion) chopped exceedingly fine, also 
one-fourth a cup, each, of fine-chopped 
capers, cucumber pickles and olives and 
two tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped 
parsley. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 



2 yolks of eggs 
i a teaspoonful of 

salt 
i a teaspoonful of 

pepper 
i a teaspoonful of 
' mustard 



4 tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar or lemon 
juice 
2 cups of olive oil 
4 tablespoonfuls of 
boiling water 



Beat the yolks, add the seasonings and 
beat again; then beat in the vinegar or 
lemon juice (use an egg beater) ; add one 
teaspoonful of the oil and continue beat- 
ing; add oil, a teaspoonful at a time, four 
or five times, beating vigorously mean- 
while, then add the oil by the table- 
spoonful until all has been used. Finish 
with the boiling water, beating it in the 
same manner as the oil. 



Query 1924. — "Recipe for Chocolate Sand- 
wiches." 

Chocolate Sandwiches 

Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in three-fourths a 
cup of sugar, one or two ounces of 
melted chocolate, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon and half a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract. Use to spread lady 
fingers or narrow strips of bread. Put 
together in pairs as any sandwiches. 



396 



i A 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





OTS 

AND 

ANS 

Quickly ''"b Easily 
Scoured \ Polished 



-^ 




MANY OTHER USES 
AND FULL DIRECT- 
IONS ON large; 

SIFTER-CAN 10 + 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
397 



New Books 



The Party Book, By Winnifred Fales 
AND Mary H. Northend. Fully Il- 
lustrated. Crown 8vo. ; $2.00 net, 
Boston : Little, Brown & Co. 
The volume is divided into four parts ; 
the first being devoted to luncheons and 
dinners, and containing chapters on invi- 
tations, setting the table correctly, and 
formal and informal menus. Part II, 
devoted to table decorations, contains 
chapters on color schemes and centre- 
pieces, Jack Horner pies, candle shades, 
place-cards, nut and bonbon holders, dec- 
orated tables for special holidays, includ- 
ing national holidays, Valentine's Day 
and St. Patrick's Day, weddings and wed- 
ding anniversaries, bridal showers, en- 
gagements and debutante luncheons, etc. 
Useful information regarding refresh- 
ments for evening parties will be found 
in the third part, including chapters on 
new ways of serving ice-cream, bever- 
ages hot and cold, and cakes, salads and 
sandwiches. Part IV gives information 
as to what to do for entertainment, in- 
cluding guessing contests, games new and 
old, etc. 

It will be seen that "The Party Book" 
is a comprehensive and extremely valua- 
ble work. 

Much of the information it contains 
can be found in other volumes, but here 
are combined, in a single volume, sug- 
gestions for a great variety of ways of 
entertaining on many occasions. The 
book is printed in large open type, with a 
suitable complement of illustrations, and 
thus presents an attractive and pleasing 
appearance to the reader. Those who 
are looking for ways and means to enter- 
tain will find valuable material in the 
Party Book. 

Household Textiles, By Charlotte M. 

GiBBS, Cloth, 111; $1.25 net, Boston: 

Whitcomb & Barrows. 
The author sketches the development 
of the textile art from prehistoric fabrics 



to the Arts and Crafts Movement of the 
present day. The book is written, in the 
main, in the interests of the consumer. 
At the same time it is designed to serve 
as a text in high school courses in textiles 
and, with supplementary reading, as an 
outline for college work. It provides 
a convenient source of information about 
fabrics, the processes of manufacturing 
fibres into cloth, the possibilities of adul- 
teration, etc., which must be of concern 
to many people. In these days we want 
to know something of the character and 
quality of our food, also of the clothing 
we wear, and the fabrics we use in our 
homes. Fraud, deceit, and misrepresen- 
tation are not to be tolerated. The ways 
to safeguard wholesome liviiag should be 
a part of our common knowledge. 

The Winning of the Best, By Ralph 

Waldo Trine, Board ; 75 cents net ; 

Leather $1.25 net, New York: 

Dodge Publishing Co. 

The tone of this little book is helpful, 

inspiring and uplifting. Its philosophy 

is that of happiness, of ''Cheerfulness 

and Content." Life is the main thing, 

and "to win the best in life" the author 

says, "it is necessary that we have a defi- 



[ Purify your Waste-pipes! 




To 
De$troy 
Cermi, 
FotdCoiea 
and prevent tickneu, 
the last thing at night 



pour into the wastepipes, 
closets, etc, a little 



The Household Disinfectant. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
398 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




These Ranges are the Standard by which other 
stoves are measured. They have more improvements than 
all other ranges combined. 

The many Crawford trouble-saving devices — the won- 
derful Single Damper — (patented), Cup- Joint Oven Flues, 
which heat the oven in every part alike, Grates (patented), 
Ash Hod and Coal Hod in base (patented), etc. — are all at 
your service with extra cost*. 

Every part of a Crawford Range is designed with the 

greatest care, to fully meet the 

demands upon it ; in fact, stronger 

than it really need to be. This 

insures against the liability of 

frequent and expensive repairs 

so common to ordinary ranges. 

If you buy a Crawford, 

you will have the most 

perfect range made. 




Send for the Illustrated Pamphlet 



Gas Ovens and Broilers at the end 
or above the ran^e if desired. Ex- 
plosions cannot occur in our Gas 
Ovens; they have patented features 
which make them absolutely SAFE I 



Ask the Crawford Agent to show you and write us 
for circular. 



Crawford Ranges are 

Sold by Progressive 

Dealers. 



WALKER 4 PRATT MFG. COMPANY, 31=35 Union St., Boston 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accep,^^ ^Mhc^^i'tutes 
399 ' 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE 



nite type and manner of thought. It is 
necessary that we have some more or less 
definite plan, and some manner of equip- 
ment for its accomplishment. The 
straight thing pays always in the end, in 
friendship, in business, in politics, in 
every conceivable avenue and phase of 
life." Again, he says, 'Things we can't 
help, we can either accept with good 
grace or quickly forget. 

It is no use to grumble and complain ; 

It's just as cheap and easy to rejoice. 

When God sorts out the weather and sends 

rain — 
Why, rain's my choice. 

So sang James Whitcomb Riley, and into 
the brief song he packed practically half 
the philosophy of life." 

Life, here and now, is the thing. All 
things of worth are here. "Life, sir, life 
and the things that pertain most directly 
to it, are, after all, the things that really 
count. 

This is the kind of book that appeals 
to the thoughtful people of today. 




RUBBER BUTTON 

Hose Supporter 

Will stand 
hard wear 




IN STORES EVERYWHERE. 

Child's sample pair,postpaid, 
i6 cents (give age). 

It gives satisfaction — doesn't tear the 
stockings — doesn't hamper the child 
— and wears longest. 
George Frost Co., Makers. Boston 

Also makers of the famous Boston Garter for men. 




Practical Cooking and Serving. By 
Janet M. Hill, Cloth, 111. $1.50. 
New York : Doubleday, Page & Co. 

This is the most complete and service- 
able Cook-book yet published. It was 
written by a woman who is both a prac- 
tical housekeeper and a trained teacher 
of cookery. The recipes have been 
tested by years of use at the author's 
home table and by her pupils North and 
South, East and West. 

The Composition of Foods is given at 
the head of chapters in which the sev- 
eral foods are specifically described. 

It holds recipes for both inexpensive 
and elaborate dishes. 

It is fully and finely illustrated; the 
objects are home-made. 

The directions for putting materials 
together are explicit and reliable. 

The ''reason why" things are done 
is given. Hence it is more than a com- 
pilation of recipes ; it is a guide to cook- 
ing and serving. 

From a recent letter to the author: 'T 
already have your 'Practical Cooking 
and Serving' and find it invaluable. I 
do not know any book or collection of 
books to take its place, and I have been 
using about twenty." 

This is a new and revised edition of 
Mrs. Hill's complete Cook-book, Practi- 
cal Cookery and Serving. The book was 
originally published at two dollars net, 
and in comparison with other books from 
every point of view, it was well worth 
the price. However, in making a new 
edition, in order to enlarge the circula- 
tion of so valuable a work and, also, to 
compete with books sold at one dollar 
and fifty cents, the publishers decided to 
reduce the price per copy of this edition 
to one dolla